Really really well done video! Additional tips: For folks who intend to try epoxying on this plastic material (i.e. the round black actuator diaprhagm) let me add a couple of suggestions. 1.) Rough up the plastic you intend to epoxy with 60 grit sandpaper. 2.) Then wipe it clean with a quick swipe of acetone. Then don't touch it without wearing gloves while you are gluing it up. It'll hold a lot better. 3.) I strongly recommend JB Weld. It is really tenacious. 4.) For places where there is a passageway plugged by a metal ball, clean and scuff as mentioned before. Then drip a bit of Cyanaoacrylate glue into the hole first. THEN seal over that with JB Weld epoxy. CA will flow in around the ball and provide additional sealing. 5.) On my 2006 R230, there were two cable ties which held the wiring/pressure hose harness to the bottom of the latch mechanism assembly. In addition to everything that Mr. Marco shows, be aware that those two cable ties must also be cut to free up the hose/wiring harness that is attached to the automobile. THEN you can remove the assembly. They are obvious - but look for them on the bracket that holds the large white actuator tank with the red hose attached to it. If they are not there, chances are your car has already been worked on and someone else cut them for you. 6.) As others have mentioned, plastic welding may be a better alternative. I did a mixture of plastic welding, epoxy, CA glue and hot glue gun glue, depending on the exact situation. Again HUGE thanks to Mr. Marco for this very logical, well laid out, and comprehensive explanation. And finally, the rant; SHAME ON MERCEDES FOR PRODUCING SUCH A CRUMMY TRUNK PULL DOWN mechanism. Deliberately installing BRITTLE-HARD PLASTIC parts on a trunk lid that might be slammed to close is a very poorly considered design decision. Cadillacs offered this very same soft close trunklid feature since the 1960's, and even lowly Cadillac designers figured plastic actuators would never work, which is why they had a mostly metal diaphragm and pull down assembly for decades. Mercedes should have known better! But I guess "precision German engineering" doesn't factor in materials degradation and stresses outside of what is "proper" i.e. "frustrated wife slams trunk because it won't soft close" :-) Anyway, THANKS Mr. MARCO! Awesome video!
I've heard the shitty type of plastic is a European regulation thing, like it's environmental plastic, not some tough plastic that would last 1million years you'd find in a Toyota
Yes, that's very likely. The Germans are taking the whole global plastics crisis quite seriously, with a heavy emphasis on degradable plastics, whereas I think the Japanese see it a bit differently. I think the Japanese see that one day recycled plastic will be a premium feedstock, just like recycled aluminum. @@benjaminwingchun9665
Much appreciate this! I have had my SL550 (2007) for about 24 hours and, after getting it home yesterday, was having the trunk indicator light issue. Was very frustrated and worried with what I thought was an immediately busted roof. Not only did this make me feel far less bothered since it's a simple repair, but I fixed it by resetting the fuse. So, back on the road with the threat of rain I went. THANK YOU! The problem is persisting this morning so I pulled the fuse, waited a few seconds, put it back in, started car, raised/lowered truck and roof operation is working. Until I want to deal with the proper repair, I've added a needle-nosed pliers to the glove box for easy fuse removal and inserting. I'm now a mechanic thanks to you! Love it.
To turn the trunk light off, until you repair the actuator, you can slam the trunk down until the light goes off. I didn't find any ill affects when doing that.
Thank you for the very detailed video. Given the work involved, my suggestion is buy the new part (entire actuator assembly) and fix it right the first time. I found the part on amazon $375.
I had the exact same problem. I bypassed the dismantling malarkey and went straight for the fuse extraction trick. Worked a treat and took 2 minutes to get to the fuse. Thanks for the heads up.
Hi, did you remove the fuse while the car is on or while the car is off? Does it matter? Sorry for the lame question but I don't want to make things worse.
My boot also does that first click, and not the second with a pull. This was a very detailed video! Now I'm gonna see if this actually is the problem with my boot. Hopefully it is. Thanks!
Thanks for the great video. It helped me today. I had a leak and the usual issues that are associated with it. What I did different was instead of using epoxy, I welded the plastic in all the weak areas you suggested. I didn't use any plastic welding rods. Just carefully melted the plastic and spread it. Worked out great.
Great video.....the voice is also very clear and easy to understand. Thank you for taking the time to shoot this video...!!! May I ask ...Do you know the part number..?? Thanks..!!
Many thanks Mr Marco ... I have previously epoxied and then completely replaced the vacuum actuator unit on my 2006 350SL ... and then the "Close trunk/boot lid" warning light came on again after a few weeks ... preventing the roof mechanism from working ... resetting the PSE fuse did the trick for me ... by far the best of the related videos on UA-cam ... if you find yourself in London I will happily buy you a beer!
Worked very well, thanks for this! Used JB Weld (KwikWeld) Dark Grey (Cures in 4-6 hours), easy to apply and strong bond, gave it a day before the install and no more leaks. The black puck only controls the lock opening and not the closing so if the PSE pump times out during lock closing focus on those leaks primarily, if it times out during opening you know the puck has a leak.... I pulled off the yellow pneumatic hose just by pulling, no screwdriver needed, you don't want to damage anything and create a leak there....
Very helpful!! I replaced the "puck", pulled the fuse, reinserted and trunk soft close worked twice. Then heard air leack. Will remove again and patch the leak. Thanks for showing how to get to the fuse!! Jay
Absolutely fantastic job and performance with camera in one hand. Thank you so much to show precisely every step like this. Never found french to explain like you👍👍👍👍
Thank you for the thorough video. It helped me diagnose my trunk problem on my 2007 SL550. Would not open automatically, and I had to use the key. It was indeed a bad plastic vacuum unit, all the clips were broken as you'd mentioned, which I tried to fix with epoxy, but did not have enough epoxy so it didn't hold. I then placed a couple of zip ties and wrapped it with duct tape and wouldn't you know it worked. I will be ordering a new vacuum unit but am curious how long my MacGiver job will hold so let's see. I watched many videos, but yours was the best and most thorough in explanation of how to access and put everything back. Also appreciated your tip on making certain I place the bolts exactly where they were before for proper alignment, I'm certain it saved me many hours of frustration. The long rod was a bit tough to get back on but was finally successfull. Once again, many thanks from California, USA.
Thank you for the video. I should have checked the fuse first. Opened the unit and it was practically new, didn’t hear any escaping air; the thing is the latch only clicked once. After pulling the fuse and put it back in, the second click happened. Put things back and worked like a charm. Thanks again for the video. You did a good service!
@@ktran991 Terrific, thank you for taking the time to respond! Really appreciate it. I didn't know if the fuse would reset if it was off the whole time.
@@ktran991 Update: You saved me! Thanks to your help! I learned how to find the fuse box and reset the pump on that fuse. I lost my job during covid and thought my father was going to beat the crap out of me, telling me it would cost at least a thousand to get it fixed. I went and said, it's fixed and he just gave me a look. It wasn't exactly the "I'm proud of you son, good job!" I had hoped for but at least I don't have to ask for help paying for an auto tech.
@@sterlingforbes3872 Definitely saved me lots of money. I had another issue with convertible top’s fluid leak. Probably costs 2k-3k to fix, my brother order a refurbished part for 250 bucks. I couldn’t do it myself but my brother worked at Boeing so he’s mechanically inclined.
Awesome video. You have shown step by step how it works and how to open everything and how to put it back. I made few videos and I have not been able to share them bc they have some steps missing. I do have the same issue the soft closing not working and now I feel good about opening it and replacing it. Thank you 1000 times.
Ok! I did this today, replaced the trunk actuator with a brand new one from FCP euro. I’d like to point out a few things missing from the video. Getting that ball socket off is easy, but putting it back into place is a BI?$H!!! Use a metal spackle knife to push up because there’s no clearance to apply pressure and it’s TIGHT so it doesn’t want to pop into place. Next the original actuator has zip ties and wires-cut the the zip ties. Then you have the play to finagle the actuator. Otherwise it’s impossible. Thanks for the video! You gave me the courage to try it! Mine was hissing like a snake in the grass. Glad it wasn’t the PSE pump!
Many thanks for this video. Mine had timed out the PSE pump and using this guide found the leak around the solenoid valve ball bearing plastics. £5 of epoxy resin later and now as good as new. :)
Worked great, Thank you. Everything was as shown and as easy as it looked. One extra thing I found the unit that the red and yellow hoses plug into that you have to seal can be easily slid out of assembly to make the glue/epoxy step easier, there are two clips on the back side be the port that is said to be hard to see/plug, close to where the rod connects to the lever. I used gorilla glue clear and let set for 8 hours, now looks and works like new.
I ran over a speed bump fairly hard and the roll bar popped up and the boot soft close went U/S. 2006 SL350. Thanks so much for the video as the fuse reset worked! FI the roll bar jammed against the roof and only multiple up roll bar pressing(this locks up the roll bar) and then manually helping it enabled me to power it down again. Phew...p.s. the rear fuse box top cover has two clips to its top back that you manually unclip to release the cover.
I paid for a shop to replace my trunk latch before I saw this very helpful tutorial, I know what to do next time. And if everyone closed their trunk lid gently this latch might last longer and same for the soft close doors
great video. Mine seems to time-out about once a month and I simply reset the fuse. This is likely the cause. Not sure I have patience to do this myself.
Thank you very much for an amazing video!! I followed it in order to find out where the air came from but found out my latch was actually working as soon as the PSE pump was reset by removing the fuse! :-)
Thank you thank you thank you. I followed your video step by step. Your detailed instructions were perfect! My trunk now opens like new. I am thrilled!
Thank you for this video, I think I'll try to the fuse part first to see if that solves the issue... the other mechanical part seems a bit daunting to an amateur like myself.
Update: You saved me! Thanks to your help! I learned how to find the fuse box and reset the pump on that fuse. I lost my job during covid and thought my father was going to beat the crap out of me, telling me it would cost at least a thousand to get it fixed. I went and said, it's fixed and he just gave me a look. It wasn't exactly the "I'm proud of you son, good job!" I had hoped for but at least I don't have to ask for help paying for an auto tech.
I had some electrical problems with the car so I reset the pump by removing the yellow fuse like you showed in the video. It seems to be working ok for now at least, but if you don't mind me asking, how long would the pump motor continue to run once it pulls the trunk lid down? When I put my ear close to the trunk lid, once the lid is pulled down the pump runs for a few seconds then stops. I then open the trunk and it works fine. Then close the trunk again and it pulls down and the pump seems to run for a few seconds before stopping like it did before. Is the pump supposed to run for a few seconds after it pulls the trunk lid down! Thank you again so very much for the great video. Very informative, for sure.
I'm sorry, I can't seem to find any details in the WIS on the PSE pump operation but I'm sure it is there somewhere. I'm not sure how long the pump should run but I hear it running for maybe 2 to 4 seconds. I believe it pumps til it senses the correct pressure then shuts off. If it runs too long before it reaches the correct pressure it will shut that port off. You then have to do the fuse trick to reset it.
@@MrMarco6900 Thank you so much for the quick reply and the additional information. Your videos are great. Very informative, providing enough detail and clear images. Thank you again and best regards, Mike
@@MrMarco6900 Dear Marco, I got the mistake of my trunk lock. It was not a 2. pull. The lock was not at right position. You Video was great to understand the system. Best regards 🙋🏻♂️
If you mean the soft close for the trunk, no it won't work if it times out. If the trunk actuator is leaking, the PSE pump should only shut off that air circuit, all the other air circuits should be working, like the seat, the door locks...ect. (unless they are leaking too). Resetting the fuse should reset any of the air circuits that are timed out.
I didn't see where your soft close actuator worked. Any idea how much air pressure is required to extend that plunger to activate the final lock position ? Additionally, there's 2 micro switches behind the 3 wire connector. I'll assume the one turns off the light on the door switch. Fully closed position. The other is to switchover the air direction solenoid from open to soft close. Is this correct ? A wiring diagram would be very advantageous. Thanks
If you start at timestamp 13:36 you can see that I'm simulating the trunk closing by moving the latch down, then you hear a second click which indicates that it's working. I'm just testing it there to make sure it works before I install it. I didn't look at any of the electronics as the air leak was the problem. Not sure what the air pressure is but it's probably too much for this plastic unit. I would also suggest maybe plastic welding those spots instead of using epoxy as the epoxy doesn't seem to hold up.
@MrMarco6900 Thanks for the speedy response. Just to clarify this is a pneumatic pump that supplies air pressure and not to be mistaken with a vacuum pump correct? I bought a replacement assembly that looks virtually brand new unused. The pump will activate the open feature which is the hockey puck however the larger white tank which activates the second position soft close does nothing. I presume that is because the air is not getting shifted to that tank. There's only one inlet but two outlets so obviously that is a shifting valve. The spring force on that soft close pneumatic is extreme. I'm wondering if 1 it's just not shifting or 2 the pump can't produce enough pressure. What are your thoughts ? Thanks
Additionally, if you look at the 3 wire connector. One is common the other two go through each micro switch. In the first lock position the first switch is closed. In the final lock position the second switch is closed. This latter one is surely to turn off the red light on the drivers door. I got to believe that first switch tell the air shift solenoid to divert air to the soft close actuator.
Vincent it sure sounds like you know a lot more about the operation than I do. The only failure mode I have seen or read about with these are the air leaks causing the PSE pump to time out. I haven't dove into anything beyond that so I wouldn't be much help.
@@MrMarco6900 I appreciate your help and applaud you for a great video! I love this car and have tackled many repairs since owning it. I can't imagine someone owning this vehicle without being able to do their own repairs. My most recent task was the audio system and narrowing down the intermittent amp ( causing no sound ) using the fiber optic bypass tool. Wouldn't it be great if we had all the references / manuals at our fingertips?
Thanks for the demo. It was easy peasy taking out the unit. Unfortunately, it didn't fix my issue. When i open my trunk it makes a hydraulic sound. If i disconnect the battery and reconnect it works for 2-3 tries than stops. The trunk release works from driver door. But when i close it the soft close doesnt kick in
Reset the yellow fuse from the video. If it works again for a few times then quits, then I would be pretty confident that you still have an air leak in the actuator.
Mine is somtimes not closed compleatly , but sometimes it does close all the way . I never hear any wind zhuss . What do you think I should do ?? The part is new on Ebay for 300 Thanks
Mr Marco. I followed your OUTSTANDING instructions and the roof on my 09 r230 is now operating, so thanks for posting this great video!! However, the soft close still doesn't work and I never hear the PSE pump activate. Any ideas? Is it possible that the roof will still operate even if the latch is electronically dead? Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks! Do you know if it is safe to assume the leak which causes the timeout is always on the puck or on that actuator unit? Or could it just as well be anywhere along the air hoses and eventually affect the locking function as well?
The leak could be anywhere on the actuator or the hose to the air pump. In my experience it hasn't affected the lock function. When it's not working I sometimes need to slam the trunk shut to get it to latch properly. You know it hasn't latched correctly when the little trunk light on the driver door is lit.
Generally it's good practice to always have the power off when replacing electrical components or fuses, but in this case it doesn't matter. If you pull the fuse while the car is on or off, you'll hear the pump activate when you re-insert the fuse.
@@MrMarco6900 Terrific, thank you for taking the time to respond! Really appreciate it. I didn't know if the fuse would reset if it was off the whole time.
@@MrMarco6900 Update: You saved me! Thanks to your help! I learned how to find the fuse box and reset the pump on that fuse. I lost my job during covid and thought my father was going to beat the crap out of me, telling me it would cost at least a thousand to get it fixed. I went and said, it's fixed and he just gave me a look. It wasn't exactly the "I'm proud of you son, good job!" I had hoped for but at least I don't have to ask for help paying for an auto tech.
@@MrMarco6900 Update: Well I spoke too soon. The fuse trick worked but only for a few hours. So I'm guessing that means I have a leak. I think I read that a few people glued the little box as a fix? The video makes it look so easy to fix but I'm intimidated and fear I'll screw it up.
When reinstalling, did you just push the lever back onto the ball with your hands, mines all plastic, not metal like yours. Maybe I'll put a touch of WD-40 on it, as pushing it hard seems a little dangerous or is there a correct angle to get it on easier?
Thanks for this good video. Can you tell me what the rod with the ball end that you take off first does? I believe I have fixed the unit, but the trunk open light keeps coming on. Does that rod have anything to do with that warning light?Thanks
It appears that the 'trunk open' light your refer to is controlled by a switch inside this assy. The wire pair of the left side is the one for this. The pair on the right side is for the trunk LIGHT.
I would test it while it's still installed and hanging down from the trunk lid. You can put some soapy water on the little ports with the ball bearings and see which ones are leaking. I haven't heard of anyone finding leaks other than the ball bearing ports or the puck. Could possibly be leaking at the air input hose connector, the yellow one, or from that hose back to the PSE pump. I don't think a bench test would work 100% as you have electronics in there that open and close ports.
When I close mine I don't here anything no motor running no air nothing where does it get its air from, does it get air from the same pump for locks roof because they also don't work all the fuses are good any help would be very thank full
Both get the air from PSE pump. It's in the trunk under the hydraulic pump, (bottom left) If you are sure the fuse is good, you might have a bad PSE pump. Search Mercedes PSE pump and you'll find a few good videos on how to fix it or replace it.
i dont even get nothing out of my pump?? any ideas why it doesnt come on at all?? i opened it up the motor still works when i apply direct power to it but when its connected theres nothing and the fuse is good any other fuses or relays??
Per the schematic, the power comes into the PSE on the larger connector, pins 2 + 6, red/white and brown. Check to make sure you have 12 volts between those two pins on the connector.
Awesome instruction! Thank you so much... it worked for me too :-) Just one addition... I highly recommend taking the actuator apart a little more BEFORE glueing to get access to all holes with the ball bearing. There are two "hooks" on the opposite side of the pipe connections. Best to find with a strong torch. See this picture from German forum: img.motor-talk.de/JxnX45ol81hNDKvN.131.jpg DO NOT GLUE THE ONE WITH THE RED ARROW! ... for me clicking the rod back in has not been easy ... hints welcomed.
Really really well done video!
Additional tips: For folks who intend to try epoxying on this plastic material (i.e. the round black actuator diaprhagm) let me add a couple of suggestions.
1.) Rough up the plastic you intend to epoxy with 60 grit sandpaper.
2.) Then wipe it clean with a quick swipe of acetone. Then don't touch it without wearing gloves while you are gluing it up. It'll hold a lot better.
3.) I strongly recommend JB Weld. It is really tenacious.
4.) For places where there is a passageway plugged by a metal ball, clean and scuff as mentioned before. Then drip a bit of Cyanaoacrylate glue into the hole first. THEN seal over that with JB Weld epoxy. CA will flow in around the ball and provide additional sealing.
5.) On my 2006 R230, there were two cable ties which held the wiring/pressure hose harness to the bottom of the latch mechanism assembly. In addition to everything that Mr. Marco shows, be aware that those two cable ties must also be cut to free up the hose/wiring harness that is attached to the automobile. THEN you can remove the assembly. They are obvious - but look for them on the bracket that holds the large white actuator tank with the red hose attached to it. If they are not there, chances are your car has already been worked on and someone else cut them for you.
6.) As others have mentioned, plastic welding may be a better alternative. I did a mixture of plastic welding, epoxy, CA glue and hot glue gun glue, depending on the exact situation.
Again HUGE thanks to Mr. Marco for this very logical, well laid out, and comprehensive explanation. And finally, the rant;
SHAME ON MERCEDES FOR PRODUCING SUCH A CRUMMY TRUNK PULL DOWN mechanism.
Deliberately installing BRITTLE-HARD PLASTIC parts on a trunk lid that might be slammed to close is a very poorly considered design decision. Cadillacs offered this very same soft close trunklid feature since the 1960's, and even lowly Cadillac designers figured plastic actuators would never work, which is why they had a mostly metal diaphragm and pull down assembly for decades. Mercedes should have known better!
But I guess "precision German engineering" doesn't factor in materials degradation and stresses outside of what is "proper" i.e. "frustrated wife slams trunk because it won't soft close" :-)
Anyway, THANKS Mr. MARCO! Awesome video!
I've heard the shitty type of plastic is a European regulation thing, like it's environmental plastic, not some tough plastic that would last 1million years you'd find in a Toyota
Yes, that's very likely. The Germans are taking the whole global plastics crisis quite seriously, with a heavy emphasis on degradable plastics, whereas I think the Japanese see it a bit differently. I think the Japanese see that one day recycled plastic will be a premium feedstock, just like recycled aluminum. @@benjaminwingchun9665
Much appreciate this! I have had my SL550 (2007) for about 24 hours and, after getting it home yesterday, was having the trunk indicator light issue. Was very frustrated and worried with what I thought was an immediately busted roof. Not only did this make me feel far less bothered since it's a simple repair, but I fixed it by resetting the fuse. So, back on the road with the threat of rain I went. THANK YOU! The problem is persisting this morning so I pulled the fuse, waited a few seconds, put it back in, started car, raised/lowered truck and roof operation is working. Until I want to deal with the proper repair, I've added a needle-nosed pliers to the glove box for easy fuse removal and inserting. I'm now a mechanic thanks to you! Love it.
To turn the trunk light off, until you repair the actuator, you can slam the trunk down until the light goes off. I didn't find any ill affects when doing that.
@@MrMarco6900 I cannot get the trunk to slam. Being automated, I guess I'm not sure how to manually close it to create the force needed.
Thank you for the very detailed video. Given the work involved, my suggestion is buy the new part (entire actuator assembly) and fix it right the first time. I found the part on amazon $375.
I had the exact same problem. I bypassed the dismantling malarkey and went straight for the fuse extraction trick. Worked a treat and took 2 minutes to get to the fuse. Thanks for the heads up.
Hi, did you remove the fuse while the car is on or while the car is off? Does it matter? Sorry for the lame question but I don't want to make things worse.
My boot also does that first click, and not the second with a pull. This was a very detailed video! Now I'm gonna see if this actually is the problem with my boot. Hopefully it is. Thanks!
Thanks for the great video. It helped me today. I had a leak and the usual issues that are associated with it. What I did different was instead of using epoxy, I welded the plastic in all the weak areas you suggested. I didn't use any plastic welding rods. Just carefully melted the plastic and spread it. Worked out great.
Maybe that will be a better long term solution. I have had to re-glue my actuator a few times.
Great video.....the voice is also very clear and easy to understand. Thank you for taking the time to shoot this video...!!! May I ask ...Do you know the part number..?? Thanks..!!
Thanks! The part number for the whole thing is 2307500185.
Many thanks Mr Marco ... I have previously epoxied and then completely replaced the vacuum actuator unit on my 2006 350SL ... and then the "Close trunk/boot lid" warning light came on again after a few weeks ... preventing the roof mechanism from working ... resetting the PSE fuse did the trick for me ... by far the best of the related videos on UA-cam ... if you find yourself in London I will happily buy you a beer!
Best removal intruction on UA-cam, had some troble with that small electrical connector
Worked very well, thanks for this!
Used JB Weld (KwikWeld) Dark Grey (Cures in 4-6 hours), easy to apply and strong bond, gave it a day before the install and no more leaks.
The black puck only controls the lock opening and not the closing so if the PSE pump times out during lock closing focus on those leaks primarily, if it times out during opening you know the puck has a leak....
I pulled off the yellow pneumatic hose just by pulling, no screwdriver needed, you don't want to damage anything and create a leak there....
Very helpful!! I replaced the "puck", pulled the fuse, reinserted and trunk soft close worked twice. Then heard air leack. Will remove again and patch the leak. Thanks for showing how to get to the fuse!! Jay
So many vids on this issue, and finally one I fully understand! Thank you 🙏🏻
I'm very grateful that you took the time and effort to film this. Helped me enormously. Very generous of you.
Absolutely fantastic job and performance with camera in one hand. Thank you so much to show precisely every step like this. Never found french to explain like you👍👍👍👍
Thank you for the thorough video. It helped me diagnose my trunk problem on my 2007 SL550. Would not open automatically, and I had to use the key.
It was indeed a bad plastic vacuum unit, all the clips were broken as you'd mentioned, which I tried to fix with epoxy, but did not have enough epoxy so it didn't hold. I then placed a couple of zip ties and wrapped it with duct tape and wouldn't you know it worked.
I will be ordering a new vacuum unit but am curious how long my MacGiver job will hold so let's see.
I watched many videos, but yours was the best and most thorough in explanation of how to access and put everything back. Also appreciated your tip on making certain I place the bolts exactly where they were before for proper alignment, I'm certain it saved me many hours of frustration. The long rod was a bit tough to get back on but was finally successfull.
Once again, many thanks from California, USA.
Thank you for the video. I should have checked the fuse first. Opened the unit and it was practically new, didn’t hear any escaping air; the thing is the latch only clicked once. After pulling the fuse and put it back in, the second click happened. Put things back and worked like a charm. Thanks again for the video. You did a good service!
Hi there, do I need to have the car on or off while I remove the fuse? Does it matter? Thanks in advance!
@@sterlingforbes3872 I had the engine off, removed the fuse and popped it back in. That was all I did.
@@ktran991 Terrific, thank you for taking the time to respond! Really appreciate it. I didn't know if the fuse would reset if it was off the whole time.
@@ktran991 Update: You saved me! Thanks to your help! I learned how to find the fuse box and reset the pump on that fuse. I lost my job during covid and thought my father was going to beat the crap out of me, telling me it would cost at least a thousand to get it fixed. I went and said, it's fixed and he just gave me a look. It wasn't exactly the "I'm proud of you son, good job!" I had hoped for but at least I don't have to ask for help paying for an auto tech.
@@sterlingforbes3872 Definitely saved me lots of money. I had another issue with convertible top’s fluid leak. Probably costs 2k-3k to fix, my brother order a refurbished part for 250 bucks. I couldn’t do it myself but my brother worked at Boeing so he’s mechanically inclined.
Awesome video. You have shown step by step how it works and how to open everything and how to put it back. I made few videos and I have not been able to share them bc they have some steps missing. I do have the same issue the soft closing not working and now I feel good about opening it and replacing it. Thank you 1000 times.
Ok! I did this today, replaced the trunk actuator with a brand new one from FCP euro. I’d like to point out a few things missing from the video. Getting that ball socket off is easy, but putting it back into place is a BI?$H!!! Use a metal spackle knife to push up because there’s no clearance to apply pressure and it’s TIGHT so it doesn’t want to pop into place.
Next the original actuator has zip ties and wires-cut the the zip ties. Then you have the play to finagle the actuator. Otherwise it’s impossible. Thanks for the video! You gave me the courage to try it! Mine was hissing like a snake in the grass. Glad it wasn’t the PSE pump!
Many thanks for this video. Mine had timed out the PSE pump and using this guide found the leak around the solenoid valve ball bearing plastics. £5 of epoxy resin later and now as good as new. :)
Worked great, Thank you. Everything was as shown and as easy as it looked. One extra thing I found the unit that the red and yellow hoses plug into that you have to seal can be easily slid out of assembly to make the glue/epoxy step easier, there are two clips on the back side be the port that is said to be hard to see/plug, close to where the rod connects to the lever. I used gorilla glue clear and let set for 8 hours, now looks and works like new.
I ran over a speed bump fairly hard and the roll bar popped up and the boot soft close went U/S. 2006 SL350. Thanks so much for the video as the fuse reset worked! FI the roll bar jammed against the roof and only multiple up roll bar pressing(this locks up the roll bar) and then manually helping it enabled me to power it down again. Phew...p.s. the rear fuse box top cover has two clips to its top back that you manually unclip to release the cover.
I paid for a shop to replace my trunk latch before I saw this very helpful tutorial, I know what to do next time. And if everyone closed their trunk lid gently this latch might last longer and same for the soft close doors
So helpful Thank you. FYI my car is a 2007 SL 550 and everything was exactly the same.
Thanks for this video. Just undertook this small project and your video was a perfect guide through it!
great video. Mine seems to time-out about once a month and I simply reset the fuse. This is likely the cause. Not sure I have patience to do this myself.
Thanks for the play-by-play. After plenty of epoxy, slow close works better than before.
Wow, great job! Also learned from you where the fuse box/ reset fuse
Keep up the great work, thank you!
Thank you very much for an amazing video!! I followed it in order to find out where the air came from but found out my latch was actually working as soon as the PSE pump was reset by removing the fuse! :-)
Hi there, do I need to have the car on or off while I remove the fuse? Does it matter? Thanks in advance!
Resetting the PSE fuse did the trick for me. Thanks for posting this tutorial Mr. Marco!
Exactly what I was looking for. Cheers Mr. Marco
Excellent video. It gave me what i was looking to learn about steps to uninstall and install.
Thank you thank you thank you. I followed your video step by step. Your detailed instructions were perfect! My trunk now opens like new. I am thrilled!
Excellent video! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience 😊
Thanks bud. Worked like a charm and I didn’t have to pay 600 bucks lol..
Thank you for taking the time to create this video. It was very helpful and I fixed my car.
Great video, it was very helpful. I could fix mine by resetting the system according to your instructions. Thanks so much!.
You're my hero! I didn't know about the fuse haha. Thanks brother!
Thank you for this invaluable info! I used Crazy Glue & Baking Soda for instant, hard-as-a-rock repair on all the cracks....
Thank you so much! This is truly a fantastic video! So much more informative than a simple parts changing video. Thanks again!
Many thanks, you just save me a trip to the workshop :)
Thank you for this video, I think I'll try to the fuse part first to see if that solves the issue... the other mechanical part seems a bit daunting to an amateur like myself.
Update: You saved me! Thanks to your help! I learned how to find the fuse box and reset the pump on that fuse. I lost my job during covid and thought my father was going to beat the crap out of me, telling me it would cost at least a thousand to get it fixed. I went and said, it's fixed and he just gave me a look. It wasn't exactly the "I'm proud of you son, good job!" I had hoped for but at least I don't have to ask for help paying for an auto tech.
I had some electrical problems with the car so I reset the pump by removing the yellow fuse like you showed in the video. It seems to be working ok for now at least, but if you don't mind me asking, how long would the pump motor continue to run once it pulls the trunk lid down? When I put my ear close to the trunk lid, once the lid is pulled down the pump runs for a few seconds then stops. I then open the trunk and it works fine. Then close the trunk again and it pulls down and the pump seems to run for a few seconds before stopping like it did before. Is the pump supposed to run for a few seconds after it pulls the trunk lid down! Thank you again so very much for the great video. Very informative, for sure.
I'm sorry, I can't seem to find any details in the WIS on the PSE pump operation but I'm sure it is there somewhere. I'm not sure how long the pump should run but I hear it running for maybe 2 to 4 seconds. I believe it pumps til it senses the correct pressure then shuts off. If it runs too long before it reaches the correct pressure it will shut that port off. You then have to do the fuse trick to reset it.
@@MrMarco6900 Thank you so much for the quick reply and the additional information. Your videos are great. Very informative, providing enough detail and clear images. Thank you again and best regards, Mike
Very helpful. Thank you for this great explanation.
Nice and cool video👍🏻 one question I have. It's normal a second pull trunk lid? Afte 30 seconds my pump pull an other time. BR Dieter
Dieter, i'm not sure I understand the question .
@@MrMarco6900 Dear Marco, I got the mistake of my trunk lock. It was not a 2. pull. The lock was not at right position. You Video was great to understand the system. Best regards 🙋🏻♂️
Good video. How about taking apart the console lock next.
Great video! if the PSE pump time out, will the soft door close work? thanks!
If you mean the soft close for the trunk, no it won't work if it times out. If the trunk actuator is leaking, the PSE pump should only shut off that air circuit, all the other air circuits should be working, like the seat, the door locks...ect. (unless they are leaking too). Resetting the fuse should reset any of the air circuits that are timed out.
sorry if it's posted but does anyone have the MB part number? Thanks Mr. Marco for sharing!!! Extremely helpful!
If you mean the whole actuator it's 2307500185.
I didn't see where your soft close actuator worked.
Any idea how much air pressure is required to extend that plunger to activate the final lock position ?
Additionally, there's 2 micro switches behind the 3 wire connector. I'll assume the one turns off the light on the door switch. Fully closed position.
The other is to switchover the air direction solenoid from open to soft close.
Is this correct ?
A wiring diagram would be very advantageous.
Thanks
If you start at timestamp 13:36 you can see that I'm simulating the trunk closing by moving the latch down, then you hear a second click which indicates that it's working. I'm just testing it there to make sure it works before I install it. I didn't look at any of the electronics as the air leak was the problem. Not sure what the air pressure is but it's probably too much for this plastic unit. I would also suggest maybe plastic welding those spots instead of using epoxy as the epoxy doesn't seem to hold up.
@MrMarco6900
Thanks for the speedy response.
Just to clarify this is a pneumatic pump that supplies air pressure and not to be mistaken with a vacuum pump correct?
I bought a replacement assembly that looks virtually brand new unused.
The pump will activate the open feature which is the hockey puck however the larger white tank which activates the second position soft close does nothing. I presume that is because the air is not getting shifted to that tank.
There's only one inlet but two outlets so obviously that is a shifting valve.
The spring force on that soft close pneumatic is extreme. I'm wondering if 1 it's just not shifting or 2 the pump can't produce enough pressure.
What are your thoughts ?
Thanks
Additionally, if you look at the 3 wire connector.
One is common the other two go through each micro switch.
In the first lock position the first switch is closed. In the final lock position the second switch is closed.
This latter one is surely to turn off the red light on the drivers door.
I got to believe that first switch tell the air shift solenoid to divert air to the soft close actuator.
Vincent it sure sounds like you know a lot more about the operation than I do. The only failure mode I have seen or read about with these are the air leaks causing the PSE pump to time out. I haven't dove into anything beyond that so I wouldn't be much help.
@@MrMarco6900
I appreciate your help and applaud you for a great video!
I love this car and have tackled many repairs since owning it.
I can't imagine someone owning this vehicle without being able to do their own repairs.
My most recent task was the audio system and narrowing down the intermittent amp ( causing no sound ) using the fiber optic bypass tool.
Wouldn't it be great if we had all the references / manuals at our fingertips?
Great video but really what's your time worth? A brand new one cost maybe $350.
Thanks for the demo. It was easy peasy taking out the unit. Unfortunately, it didn't fix my issue. When i open my trunk it makes a hydraulic sound. If i disconnect the battery and reconnect it works for 2-3 tries than stops. The trunk release works from driver door. But when i close it the soft close doesnt kick in
Reset the yellow fuse from the video. If it works again for a few times then quits, then I would be pretty confident that you still have an air leak in the actuator.
Great video, very well done. Thanks!
Mine is somtimes not closed compleatly , but sometimes it does close all the way . I never hear any wind zhuss . What do you think I should do ?? The part is new on Ebay for 300 Thanks
GREAT information!! THANKS FOR POSTING!!!
Mr Marco. I followed your OUTSTANDING instructions and the roof on my 09 r230 is now operating, so thanks for posting this great video!! However, the soft close still doesn't work and I never hear the PSE pump activate. Any ideas? Is it possible that the roof will still operate even if the latch is electronically dead? Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks! Do you know if it is safe to assume the leak which causes the timeout is always on the puck or on that actuator unit? Or could it just as well be anywhere along the air hoses and eventually affect the locking function as well?
The leak could be anywhere on the actuator or the hose to the air pump. In my experience it hasn't affected the lock function. When it's not working I sometimes need to slam the trunk shut to get it to latch properly. You know it hasn't latched correctly when the little trunk light on the driver door is lit.
Hi there, do I need to have the car on or off while I remove the fuse? Does it matter? Thanks in advance!
Generally it's good practice to always have the power off when replacing electrical components or fuses, but in this case it doesn't matter. If you pull the fuse while the car is on or off, you'll hear the pump activate when you re-insert the fuse.
@@MrMarco6900 Terrific, thank you for taking the time to respond! Really appreciate it. I didn't know if the fuse would reset if it was off the whole time.
@@MrMarco6900 Update: You saved me! Thanks to your help! I learned how to find the fuse box and reset the pump on that fuse. I lost my job during covid and thought my father was going to beat the crap out of me, telling me it would cost at least a thousand to get it fixed. I went and said, it's fixed and he just gave me a look. It wasn't exactly the "I'm proud of you son, good job!" I had hoped for but at least I don't have to ask for help paying for an auto tech.
@@MrMarco6900 Update: Well I spoke too soon. The fuse trick worked but only for a few hours. So I'm guessing that means I have a leak. I think I read that a few people glued the little box as a fix? The video makes it look so easy to fix but I'm intimidated and fear I'll screw it up.
2007 sl550. fix it for 1 minutes. thank you vor video 🤲
Great explanation & well thought through. Thank you 👍
Wow I love it ...
It was very helpful, thank you 🙏
Keep on making more videos...great job....🌴👍👍👍🌴
you save me time and money thanks
When reinstalling, did you just push the lever back onto the ball with your hands, mines all plastic, not metal like yours. Maybe I'll put a touch of WD-40 on it, as pushing it hard seems a little dangerous or is there a correct angle to get it on easier?
Thanks for this good video. Can you tell me what the rod with the ball end that you take off first does? I believe I have fixed the unit, but the trunk open light keeps coming on. Does that rod have anything to do with that warning light?Thanks
It appears that the 'trunk open' light your refer to is controlled by a switch inside this assy. The wire pair of the left side is the one for this. The pair on the right side is for the trunk LIGHT.
Do the ball bearing serve a purpose, dont they need to suck air back it there?
I can't see a purpose for the ball bearings. I just know it starts working again when you seal them up.
Can you bench test for leaks. I replaced the puck and there is still a small leak. Do you test with vacuum or air presure?
I would test it while it's still installed and hanging down from the trunk lid. You can put some soapy water on the little ports with the ball bearings and see which ones are leaking. I haven't heard of anyone finding leaks other than the ball bearing ports or the puck. Could possibly be leaking at the air input hose connector, the yellow one, or from that hose back to the PSE pump. I don't think a bench test would work 100% as you have electronics in there that open and close ports.
Thanks for the explanation... It was useful
Do you think Flexseal would do the trick on the leaks?
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
Seriously,
Thanks!
What year wad this option introduced ?
When I close mine I don't here anything no motor running no air nothing where does it get its air from, does it get air from the same pump for locks roof because they also don't work all the fuses are good any help would be very thank full
Both get the air from PSE pump. It's in the trunk under the hydraulic pump, (bottom left) If you are sure the fuse is good, you might have a bad PSE pump. Search Mercedes PSE pump and you'll find a few good videos on how to fix it or replace it.
Thanks for the detailed sharing.
What do you estimate is the quantified measure of the pressure being contained?
Wouldn't even begin to guess, but I'm sure it's pretty high! Seems like it would take a lot of pressure to break the tabs on that black hockey puck.
what I most like about Benz is how every system reliably fails.
The only variable is what was the failure interval 🙄
i dont even get nothing out of my pump?? any ideas why it doesnt come on at all?? i opened it up the motor still works when i apply direct power to it but when its connected theres nothing and the fuse is good any other fuses or relays??
Per the schematic, the power comes into the PSE on the larger connector, pins 2 + 6, red/white and brown. Check to make sure you have 12 volts between those two pins on the connector.
MrMarco6900 thank you sir i will do that asap
I just replaced mine and still the soft close doesn’t work what am I doing wrong do I need to pull a fuse or something?
Yes, you probably need to reset the fuse. Start at time 4:10
@@MrMarco6900 thank you for your reply and I will keep you posted 🙏🏻🍺
شكرا 💐💐💐
I can’t remove the thing from the ball head also the ball head is plastic
Actually its vacuum which operates that
THANK YOU
4:42 lol
Works better without it.
You'll be fixing it again soon.
Sl
Awesome instruction! Thank you so much... it worked for me too :-) Just one addition... I highly recommend taking the actuator apart a little more BEFORE glueing to get access to all holes with the ball bearing. There are two "hooks" on the opposite side of the pipe connections. Best to find with a strong torch. See this picture from German forum: img.motor-talk.de/JxnX45ol81hNDKvN.131.jpg DO NOT GLUE THE ONE WITH THE RED ARROW! ... for me clicking the rod back in has not been easy ... hints welcomed.