Keep the FDM stuff coming! We don't see enough of it and I think it's way more accessible to folks in terms of budget and prep+cleanup. Landlords and kids are not conducive to a good resin printing lab, but FDM is great for printing out our toys and toys for other people
Hey ! Glad you appreciate my Land Raider model !!! For your information, as you might have read in the description, it is part of a series I named S.P.R.U.E. (pun intended). This series is specifically optimised for saving a LOT of material on FDM printers AND to be printed supportless ! As a matter of fact, the name stands for "Supportless Print Ready Ultimate Elements" Don't hesitate to go see the entire series, and to turn your supports OFF ;)
First, thanks for designing these beauties. Big shout out to you! Second, I sure do feel a goof haha. I just learned about SPRUE being supportless earlier today. Ill have to try another one of your designs but this time fully supportless. Thanks again!
@@PropaneProd Hehe, don't mention it ;) And to give full credit when it's due : I designed almost from scratch some elements like the assault canon front turret, and the whole Sicaran battletank, and designed entirely from scratch the Eldar hornet BUT for all other models of my SPRUE series I took existing models designed by very talented people (their names are in the description of my models) and reworked them extensively to achieve two goals : make them printable supportless with the least material possible, and make them fully compatible with the original GW models : hatches, sponsons, custom bits etc. ;)
@@speakoid Thingiverse or most probably Cult 3D (Thingiverse is watch much more closely and my content got DMCAed so many times that I stopped reuploading it on this website)
I've been seeing the new A1 all over Reddit and seeing this video sold me on it. Blah blah resin is better but I really don't/can't mess with all the toxicity. I would love to see them painted!
exactly. Resin is dead. Those that cannot see the potential of FDM printers (especially the practicality) are just not informed enough to understand...
genuinely interested in getting a fdm printer. I have a medium sized resin printer but this quality makes me feel like its good enough to print alot of medium and large sized things. Very cool and I love your short concise videos.
If you have the funds and don't mind learning a completely different workflow, it's great. I love having both types of printer, especially with these multi-part models, because I can print bigger, simpler things like vehicle bodies in FDM and then print smaller details like hatches, livery, etc. in resin to get the best of both worlds. A little sanding or gap filler on the FDM, glue it all up, and I have the best of both worlds since the base elements have the durability of FDM but the small details still have the clarity of fine detail that resin offers.
As you demonstrated, it's important to factor in the print orientation to best make sure the layer lines don't end up too distracting , minimizing the need for sanding in the process, but otherwise it's a great tool. In many cases, it also pays off to combine the projects with a resin printer. Single out the detail stuff that needs really fine details and let the filament printer take care of the lion's share of parts.
Don't sand it; just rub a cotton bud soaked in a solvent like toluene over it, to smooth out the worst of the bumps. Practice on some scrap pieces first, but it's not hard.
@@Kyusoath they will still threaten legal action, even tho you will likely win, its a legal battle most people are too intimidated to start and WG knows that, eventually someone with enough money will fight it tho.
Dude that was exactly what i wanted to find! Was thinking aboutgetting an a1 mini for vehicle/dreadnought printing and i think you just convinced me! Cheers and subscribed for more fdm action
Wow those look amazing! I compared my official land raider to it as well and they look so close to real! Glad to see FDM printers being used. I’m Hesitant to get a resin printer due to all the fumes.
I did not spend that long on them, though, haha. Went with 1 piece prints, landraider was 10 hours and looked fine for like $6 or $8. Rhino was like 5 hours and about $3 maybe?
I've been rocking my Anycubic Vyper for over 3 years now. Great machine. Besides totally functional parts for my combat robotics hobby (that's in TPU) I've done a 40k scale Imperator, reaver, warhound, several tanks and aircraft, and probably 75 marines of various types.
Land raider is exactly what I was looking into. That and 1 specific part for an impulsor I cant find anywhere - the little roof overhang onto which you put the radar.
My first ever print was a leviathan dreadnought on an out of the box ender 3. Was impressed back then, the print wasn't all that great knowing what I can produce now, but I was still hyped. Seeing what you can produce with that bambu labs machine is just wild. FDM truely came a long way.
The real test is painting it though. Lots of the FDM stuff looks good when it's printed, but after painting the layer lines really come out. Still this is impressive.
Absolutely! I'm actually working on some knights myself. That's the beauty of FDM prints for gaming, there is always a use for it even in the resin world. I always worried how heavy a resin vehicle print would be.
Great video, can't wait to see how far can you push that printer into the hobby with the Knight and the other tanks (maybe you could try to do a baneblade that would really be a test for the A1 mini) and again love what youre doing keep the great work ^_^
Love the video, keep up the good work. I have the basics down at this point with my a1 but I didn’t even realize you can split up the model like that to make printing easier. Can you please share how to do this on the Bambu slicer?
Thanks so much, and yes the Bambu slicer has the Split to Objects or Parts function. This is an easy way to split items up if your files aren't already.
The quality you're getting here is amazing, it nearly looks like a resin print. Did you have to do much sanding or post-processing on these? This video is seriously making me want a 0.2 nozzle now
Hey Propane great video man and you inspired me to purchase a A1 mini and I was wondering if you had any tips as initially it was working great but now I have bed adhesion issues. Have you had any issues like these and got any tips for me ? Thanks Steve
Consider me very intrigued. I spent $108 Australian on a T'au Commander Battlesuit recently. For that price, and using one of these printers, could I print several battlesuits for that same price? 😮
Yeah I learned that my miniature/infantry settings (FDG) works best for small detail prints, while the default settings were better suited for the bigger vehicle prints. I'm sure the default settings can be tweaked to make the vehicle prints better.
I've been trying to get a close read of electrical consumption, but until then I can just base my assumptions off other people's monitoring. A 3d printer this size is comparable to a lamp in terms of power consumption. I've been running this sucker night and day, but I've seen little change in my power bill. From what I've researched, the printer heating start up consumes the most power. But once the printer is printing (majority of its process) it consumes very little power compared to the start up. Hope this helps!
@@PropaneProd seen! My bad I joined as soon as I saw it! I’ve got a resin printer and love it, but vehicles are big parts for things to not go wrong….. looks like you’ve solved my problem!
This file came pre-split thankfully. You are able to make cuts in the bambu slicer but its very limited to cutting by axis. 3rd party software like meshmixer lets you cut files with better control.
How did you get your FDM print so smooth? I thought that the A1 mini frequently leaves those print lines behind. I don't know if it's just not zoomed in enough, but I can't see them at all?
I use a matte primer spray and it helps hide the layer lines. They are more noticeable at certain parts of the model espicially heads, which doesn't bother me too much. As long as I can hide the lines on the major body portions I call it a win. Most of the time to the human eye it's not noticeable, but then a close up camera will reveal the lines
hi could you link you where you got your SDL files from so if we wanted to get them and do the same we could that would be helpful information. im enjoying your vids keep up the good work :)
Hey thanks for watching! I cant link here, but I'm working on a way to be able to share. Discord may be the easiest way. All files used were on the purple website if you're familiar. Search the name of each vehicle and it'll pop up.
Looks really great. Too bad that your STLs will probably not be available. I can't use the commercial STLs because I can't separate or split them like you can :( I only have an A1 Mini
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Keep the FDM stuff coming! We don't see enough of it and I think it's way more accessible to folks in terms of budget and prep+cleanup. Landlords and kids are not conducive to a good resin printing lab, but FDM is great for printing out our toys and toys for other people
4 minutes, informative, well edited, hot damn. take my like you sick bastard
Haha thanks boss!
Played it at 2x speed, still perfectly understandable, informative little nugget of info. Now I just need to get a 0.2mm nozzle
with the right print orientation those are looking fantastic
Hey ! Glad you appreciate my Land Raider model !!! For your information, as you might have read in the description, it is part of a series I named S.P.R.U.E. (pun intended). This series is specifically optimised for saving a LOT of material on FDM printers AND to be printed supportless ! As a matter of fact, the name stands for "Supportless Print Ready Ultimate Elements"
Don't hesitate to go see the entire series, and to turn your supports OFF ;)
First, thanks for designing these beauties. Big shout out to you! Second, I sure do feel a goof haha. I just learned about SPRUE being supportless earlier today. Ill have to try another one of your designs but this time fully supportless. Thanks again!
@@PropaneProd Hehe, don't mention it ;) And to give full credit when it's due : I designed almost from scratch some elements like the assault canon front turret, and the whole Sicaran battletank, and designed entirely from scratch the Eldar hornet BUT for all other models of my SPRUE series I took existing models designed by very talented people (their names are in the description of my models) and reworked them extensively to achieve two goals : make them printable supportless with the least material possible, and make them fully compatible with the original GW models : hatches, sponsons, custom bits etc. ;)
The real MVP!
Where could one visit to witness such a series?
@@speakoid Thingiverse or most probably Cult 3D (Thingiverse is watch much more closely and my content got DMCAed so many times that I stopped reuploading it on this website)
I've been seeing the new A1 all over Reddit and seeing this video sold me on it. Blah blah resin is better but I really don't/can't mess with all the toxicity. I would love to see them painted!
exactly. Resin is dead. Those that cannot see the potential of FDM printers (especially the practicality) are just not informed enough to understand...
Bambu Labs printers rock. Can’t wait to see what their next printer is.
genuinely interested in getting a fdm printer. I have a medium sized resin printer but this quality makes me feel like its good enough to print alot of medium and large sized things. Very cool and I love your short concise videos.
If you have the funds and don't mind learning a completely different workflow, it's great. I love having both types of printer, especially with these multi-part models, because I can print bigger, simpler things like vehicle bodies in FDM and then print smaller details like hatches, livery, etc. in resin to get the best of both worlds. A little sanding or gap filler on the FDM, glue it all up, and I have the best of both worlds since the base elements have the durability of FDM but the small details still have the clarity of fine detail that resin offers.
As you demonstrated, it's important to factor in the print orientation to best make sure the layer lines don't end up too distracting , minimizing the need for sanding in the process, but otherwise it's a great tool.
In many cases, it also pays off to combine the projects with a resin printer. Single out the detail stuff that needs really fine details and let the filament printer take care of the lion's share of parts.
Don't sand it; just rub a cotton bud soaked in a solvent like toluene over it, to smooth out the worst of the bumps. Practice on some scrap pieces first, but it's not hard.
Oh, nice! I definitely want to print these in 1/12 scale
up to 2 chimeras, a hellhound, 3 leman russes, Basilisk and a Rogal Dorn. As well as a 10 man squad of Steel Legionnaires. FDM has been great so far!!
I've been eyeing the Bambu A1 Mini myself for a little bit. NGL, you might just have sold me on it.
It's awesome your showing great results from fdm printing. I primarily do resin but I have used my A1 for some minis and always great results
love to see them after paint
this is awesome mate! keen to see more!
Can you link us to where you got the raider please?
I'm surprised that GW hasn't come at you with a flaming chainsaw yet.
You're selling me on bambu stuff - love the vid!!
if you drew a picture of mickey mouse would disney have any legal recourse? no. its exactly the same thing.
@@Kyusoath they will still threaten legal action, even tho you will likely win, its a legal battle most people are too intimidated to start and WG knows that, eventually someone with enough money will fight it tho.
This is awesome inspired me to buy the bambu mini arriving tomorrow looks forward to starting my journey
Each time these models are harder to find and we end up on other sites hoping they still work. Your print looked awesome
I really enjoyed this video! Now i know that i can in fact try to print some models with 3d printer and that's what i really want to do!
Dude that was exactly what i wanted to find! Was thinking aboutgetting an a1 mini for vehicle/dreadnought printing and i think you just convinced me! Cheers and subscribed for more fdm action
Good stuff my brotha, keep up the good work, these videos are great!
I just got done printing a rhino on my A1 mini, using only the default 0.4mm nozzle and it looks great
Knight project will be sweet!
Wow those look amazing! I compared my official land raider to it as well and they look so close to real! Glad to see FDM printers being used. I’m Hesitant to get a resin printer due to all the fumes.
Oh my gosh that tiny tank is precious.
Baby tank is a certified cutey pie
@@PropaneProdI need to know how to print these!
Maaan! i hust wanna say THANK YOU! I think about SLA 3d printer, but i can't use it in my apartment, but this little boy that's what i need)))
Really great video! Thanks!
I've done a landraider and some rhinos on a k1, awesome results
I did not spend that long on them, though, haha. Went with 1 piece prints, landraider was 10 hours and looked fine for like $6 or $8. Rhino was like 5 hours and about $3 maybe?
I've been rocking my Anycubic Vyper for over 3 years now. Great machine. Besides totally functional parts for my combat robotics hobby (that's in TPU) I've done a 40k scale Imperator, reaver, warhound, several tanks and aircraft, and probably 75 marines of various types.
Keep these coming bro amazing work . I’m looking into getting one of these printers for 40k too .
Can you link to the STL files?
Try searching up the words that you can see on the tab into google
@@liamvernon2703 cults
Land raider is exactly what I was looking into. That and 1 specific part for an impulsor I cant find anywhere - the little roof overhang onto which you put the radar.
great video, im really interested in fdm printing for minis. Subscribed.
My first ever print was a leviathan dreadnought on an out of the box ender 3. Was impressed back then, the print wasn't all that great knowing what I can produce now, but I was still hyped. Seeing what you can produce with that bambu labs machine is just wild. FDM truely came a long way.
First ever print was a Dreadnought? Absolute LEGEND
Omg yes plz. Knight printing project would be great🎉❤
Those look great!
The real test is painting it though. Lots of the FDM stuff looks good when it's printed, but after painting the layer lines really come out. Still this is impressive.
You are a Saint!
Great video. Where can i get the STL for the baby tank please?
This is great video. I was also thinking about making some knights with FDM as they would be too expensive with resin.
Absolutely! I'm actually working on some knights myself. That's the beauty of FDM prints for gaming, there is always a use for it even in the resin world. I always worried how heavy a resin vehicle print would be.
Looooooove this....but like most people, would love to know what files they are.
Great video, can't wait to see how far can you push that printer into the hobby with the Knight and the other tanks (maybe you could try to do a baneblade that would really be a test for the A1 mini) and again love what youre doing keep the great work ^_^
Shut up and take my money… bambu, that is. Love that FDM is so good. Just not ready for the hassle and dangerous workflow of resin.
SO sick
What file did you use for the land raider? I am looking for a good one!
Ok I pull up
GW Layers: so you have chosen death
They can't do a damn thing 😂
Google the STL file name shown at 2:10 and you'll find the file.
I couldn’t see the name, what was it?
Love the video, keep up the good work. I have the basics down at this point with my a1 but I didn’t even realize you can split up the model like that to make printing easier. Can you please share how to do this on the Bambu slicer?
Thanks so much, and yes the Bambu slicer has the Split to Objects or Parts function. This is an easy way to split items up if your files aren't already.
Good work!
The quality you're getting here is amazing, it nearly looks like a resin print. Did you have to do much sanding or post-processing on these? This video is seriously making me want a 0.2 nozzle now
subbed for more 40k ... how does paint adhere to it?
After being primed with regular ol' spray primer, they paint extremely well!
i just found out your channel, i will follow your journey, keep up!
i would love to know where the files came from! specifically the land raider
Will you be doing a video on how to print bases on a FDM printer?
Hey that's look totaly awesome🤩! I get bambu lab A1 mini a week ago and want to try print those minis too. Could you share profile that you used? 😅
Question I'm using a leman russ stl but it's presupported will this affect the print
i'm guessing that the same settings can be applied to the Bambuu Labs A1, as it is pretty much the same printer just bigger
Care to share the links where we could acquire these fine models?
How much bigger would they need to be to be true scale?
how did you slice that tank into multiple parts?
¿How big is your cat? Need size references! haha. Great videos. Thank you.
any chance you're uploading the modified files anywhere?
What's the print quality difference between the .2 and .4 nozzle?
Hey Propane great video man and you inspired me to purchase a A1 mini and I was wondering if you had any tips as initially it was working great but now I have bed adhesion issues.
Have you had any issues like these and got any tips for me ?
Thanks Steve
Hey thanks for watching! Check out the discord for print help/advice. We have a great print community full of knowledgeable people
Consider me very intrigued. I spent $108 Australian on a T'au Commander Battlesuit recently. For that price, and using one of these printers, could I print several battlesuits for that same price? 😮
why not use 0.4 nozzle for vehicle? Did you try? Does it looks bad?
Do you still use your old settings with infantry, and these auto settings just with vehicles?
Yeah I learned that my miniature/infantry settings (FDG) works best for small detail prints, while the default settings were better suited for the bigger vehicle prints. I'm sure the default settings can be tweaked to make the vehicle prints better.
56h printing time? Would be nice if you include how much power the printer uses during printing.
I've been trying to get a close read of electrical consumption, but until then I can just base my assumptions off other people's monitoring. A 3d printer this size is comparable to a lamp in terms of power consumption. I've been running this sucker night and day, but I've seen little change in my power bill. From what I've researched, the printer heating start up consumes the most power. But once the printer is printing (majority of its process) it consumes very little power compared to the start up. Hope this helps!
@@PropaneProd OK, Cheers!
Yeah dude! Keep it up! Keen to see more! Have you got a discord downloads set up?
Thanks for the kind words! And yes check video description or channel for the disc if you haven't already
@@PropaneProd seen! My bad I joined as soon as I saw it! I’ve got a resin printer and love it, but vehicles are big parts for things to not go wrong….. looks like you’ve solved my problem!
I have been looking for a good Leman Russ Battle Tank model, if you find one let me know.
What did you use to split the model?
This file came pre-split, but I've been able to do simple splits on the Bambu slicer. You just cut by axis, very simple so its very limiting
How did you separate the parts to print separately? Can that be done in the Bambu slicer or only if the STL file comes in pieces?
This file came pre-split thankfully. You are able to make cuts in the bambu slicer but its very limited to cutting by axis. 3rd party software like meshmixer lets you cut files with better control.
@@PropaneProd Thank you!
do you like have to sandthem down? they look so incredibly clean, how do you do that? I usually have those lines
Lower layer height, especially with 0.2 nozzle. When I print with my 0.2 nozzle I can barely see layer lines, it just takes a lot longer vs the 0.4.
Use primer. It fills out the lines
Thanks guys!!! I am going to look for such a printer now i think it is exactly what i was waiting for
Which paintable fillament do you use?
ESun pla + and then prime it before paint
How did you piece it out in the slicer ?
Luckily both files had the option for all pieces to be separated. You could also use the functions "Split to Object or Parts" in Bambu slicer
Please rhino part link
Nice Project! Can you tell the PLA that you used for this?
could these files be use to make 1/18 models size?
Smaller models will have a few more imperfections but I made 1/300 scale and they came out remarkably great.
Any idea what this cost you for the electricity used to run the printer for 40 hours?
I haven't tracked it, but I have not seen any big changes in my electric bill. After researching it's about the same power consumption as a lamp
@@PropaneProd Thank you.
What filament are you using?
Any hint to the files or creators you used?
Check the discord in bio for links
How did you get your FDM print so smooth? I thought that the A1 mini frequently leaves those print lines behind. I don't know if it's just not zoomed in enough, but I can't see them at all?
'BRUH..' LOL 🤣
Wow it looks amazing, nice video. Are they similar to the size of the Games Workshop counterpart?
Based off dimensions I read online, they are very similar if not the same.
Nice! Does paint hide the slice marks or will that require some sanding?
I use a matte primer spray and it helps hide the layer lines. They are more noticeable at certain parts of the model espicially heads, which doesn't bother me too much. As long as I can hide the lines on the major body portions I call it a win. Most of the time to the human eye it's not noticeable, but then a close up camera will reveal the lines
gimme the link to those projects, pretty please
A little birdy told me they in the discord
Wouldn't it be a bit faster to print the larger parts with a 0.4mm nozzle and only the smaller parts with the 0.2mm nozzle?
Can you add in the description where you got all your files. Either website or actual file. Thank you
Lol ofcourse not
Nice try totally-not-GW-legal
lol
@r0bw1l73 that wasn't a trap I really would like to know where he got them i would like to try and print them
@@brandonsperlazza1655try searching 40k on cults and tick Free. You'll find what you need
@@brandonsperlazza1655maybe thingverse, i think he didnt put in the link because gw would be angry
hi could you link you where you got your SDL files from so if we wanted to get them and do the same we could that would be helpful information. im enjoying your vids keep up the good work :)
Hey thanks for watching! I cant link here, but I'm working on a way to be able to share. Discord may be the easiest way. All files used were on the purple website if you're familiar. Search the name of each vehicle and it'll pop up.
discord link added in video description
Can you print a titan?
Of course! I'm working on some Knight projects currently. But I will be starting a Warhound titan very soon.
How did you split the rhino into multiple parts? Did the file come like that or did you use something like Meshmixer?
Thankfully that file came already split my printing ease. I've never used Meshmixer, but have used slicers to make simple cuts to files.
pls DM where you got those files
I am starting to think all these resin guys who switched to bamboo labs were just scared the whole time
scared of what? resin has more things that can go wrong and harm you.
cooooooooooool
can you share the link for printfiles?
The emperor protects... in discord
Protect this man from GW!!!
👍
Looks really great. Too bad that your STLs will probably not be available. I can't use the commercial STLs because I can't separate or split them like you can :( I only have an A1 Mini
Good news! Everything printed in this video was on the A1 Mini. All files used were found for free, and were able to be used in the Bambu Slicer.
@@PropaneProd thats great. You linked your discord. Can i found the stl there with your Changes ?
Pls Links to the Modells?!, BR Rolf
You do not already have a split model available