I've never seen the V-notch technique before. Usually it's a mortise and tenon. Is there a cordage that isn't as elastice? Cimbrer - Viking traditions, made a small intricately carved and curved backpack size bucksaw.
Hi everyone! quick responses to some of the comments: yeah key ring idea great! we have used..and many others...e.g. mors flattens a penny and rolls it up to make pin! for a natural choice, I've used a 'nail' from a dead pine tree in a pinch (hard small branch) holds up surprisingly well. Knife used..my fav...Skookum Bush tool. 60 sec thing..yeah just a level of efficiency fun to eventually try to aspire too haha..not all that important. no rush unless a life at stake. Thanks for future video ideas! and lastly, karamat trying new format...I kinda like! as it give mors the chance to narrate/expand on the subject matter, while his flunky gets to make some chips fly :-) Thanks for Comments and Thanks for watching!
Fantastic demo and narration. These 2 make a great team and the mutual respect and admiration is evident. Thanks for posting so much of this awesome content where so many people can get a chance to see it.
Great review for those of us who attended the summer course. Enjoy using it when heading out to cut small trees for day fires at home. I was surprised at how efficient it is when cutting wood, and feel confident in adding it to the day pack. Thanks and hope to see you at the winter course, all the best.
Good point about simply wrapping a rag handle onto the blade in order to craft the frame. Even some bark and grass would probably work its just a few small cuts, especially used in conjunction with chisel batoning to finish a cut like Mors mentioned, probably can just pinch the blade at that point...
I gave about six different versions a try and with none of them I had success. This one was easy to follow and the saw I made performs excellent. Thank you very much. Andreas
maybe a suggestion I would like to give is maybe using a split ring in place of the bolts to pin the blade may work better, thank you for the great videos though and always look forward to them keep them coming.
one nice thing about a heavy saw is that the extra weight gives greater stability in the cut and lets more surface of the teeth contact the wood, letting you cut faster.
i see a lot of folks making these things and maybe eventually will try, but for now i'm buying readymade--expensive, but beautiful. enjoyed and subscribed.
Nice. I do a v-shape, or tepee type I came up with. It uses only two sticks and one small stick for the tension and threads. The tension and treads is on the front side instead of on the top. It is strong enough, very light in the hand, nimble and balanced. Ergonomics is also better. Best is, it packs well together with the blade. It does however take somewhat longer time to make, to get notches straight. So far alder was my preference. But pine or something would also work. The cuts for the blade can be made some concave to negotiate straigthness.
If you were to carry one saw blade into the woods would it be a Green wood blade (raker teeth) or a dead wood blade? Thanks for the very professional demonstration in such an expedient manner.
dry wood, dry wood blade can cut both dry and green wood, but for very wet green wood, gets shavings stuck between the teeth. But green wood blade can only cut green wood and doesn't cut dry wood efficiently. Unless you use your saw for gardening or maintainance of trees, I would recommand a dry wood blade concerning the need to make fire and the versatility
Nice, I like this! Thank you for showing this, I will have to try making one, I also liked the saw u used to make the saw and your knife, could u please tell me what they are called. Thank you
I found cobbling together a frame each time more hassle than it is worth. With the above carry method, simply put the wooden pieces in your pack and clip the blade to the outside. No more cut hands or packs!
+Prepare2Survive Nice tip with the keychain rings. When I was young and first starting out I used to use a couple of door hinges with long wood screws to hold the H till I got enough practice to make a frame that didn't wobble.
It seems that every video that I see on how to make a buck saw starts of with the video maker using another saw to cut the parts needed to make the bucksaw frame.
+bwillan He probably could have batoned the parts out of the blank or a tiny saw on a pocket knife would work. ;) Seems kind of silly to use a saw to make a saw.
Easy to do with an axe.(in a demonstration I make the whole frame with an axe except the v notch in the cross piece)...or the last 6 inches of the saw blade with a rag wrapped around for handle, or in a pinch I've simply used dead sticks...scared with knife and broke over knee . I was challenging myself to make a saw frame in less than 5 minutes (can send you picture of this rough but totally usable frame!) Thanks for comments!
It is like making a lathe, to make a lathe you have to have a lathe. It would have been more realistic to wrap the buck saw blade with cloth and use it.
I don't see a problem with using a tool to build a better tool of the same general type. Like having a small or even broken saw to build a bigger saw. The new saw is made to saw other things, like bigger trees. You scale up so to speak. Very logical in my view. Also, if you are in a group of people that all needs to use a saw at the same time for some work but you only got one saw, you can - if you are in a tight spot with no other options- create more saws by using the first one. Again, very logical. Makes great sense. And as pointed out in the video, the blade used for the new bucksaw could probably have been used to build the frame for it. I think it would be a very inconvenient thing to do the latter, but it is a fair point. Showing that is besides the scope and wouldn't add much aside from showing what everyone would know already: it is very inconvenient and probably the very reason a frame is build for the blade.
Do you have a video / or can produce a *video series*, on Tree (wood) identification (4seasons usages), from the Living tree - to the proper Harvesting - to the processing and best tools (knife & axe / saw / lodges / bark cordage / root cordage / medicinal properties / containers/ baskets/ canoe/ which is the best charcoal material / cooking utensils / water resistant for small game, fish traps, snowshoes, /pack frame,/ edible trees, weapons and hunting tools.. etc etc..) to make from each specie. We have your book, with some identifications and uses, but no one in the Bushcraft community has produced a Good *video Series* on this subject. ...miigwetch (thank you) for all your work.
Does seem strange to use one saw to make another. Wish the camera had been closer to see better what he was doing during the assembly. Still another good video though.
I don't see a problem with using a tool to build a better tool of the same general type. Like having a small or even broken saw to build a bigger saw. The new saw is made to saw other things, like bigger trees. You scale up so to speak. Very logical in my view. Also, if you are in a group of people that all needs to use a saw at the same time for some work but you only got one working order saw and some broken ones, you can - if you are in a tight spot with no other options- create more working order saws by using the first one. Again, very logical. Makes great sense.
As far as bow saws go, I have an older 21" with a wingnut tensioner. The stationary pin fit into the blade hole but the pin on the tensioner would not go in. Could this be because of the rust patina coat? I tried pressing it in but it was still a tad too big. None of the old bowsaws I picked up have that lever action tensioner on them.
it is a bit too late, but to my knowledge, there were bowsaw blades with holes that are rounded rectangles. Some also have larger holes. In my area it is impossible to buy the wing nut kind, which is the kind i prefer.
Yeah admittedly most the blades for 'swed saws' or 'bow saws' that are available from regular stores are pretty crappy. A few places on line you can order good ones. I was lucky and given a handful of excellent quality sharpenable blades. Message me if you would like online contacts. Here is the saw I'm using to make the saw ha-ha www.silkysaws.com/Silky_Saws/Curved_2/Sugoi-360mm-Handsaw-1373#sthash.t3cjWE2j.dpbs
+bushmankel Could you let me know where to find the blades you recommend? I sent you a message, but no reply. I hope you're out in the woods having fun! Thanks!
+bushmankel you should check out some of those CutBrik bow saw blades at Lee Valley. They are very inexpensive, and I have found them to outdo all the hardware store blades I've encountered. They are made in Portugal.
If you are carrying a saw blade with you (Kelly does say this at the beginning of the video) you could use that saw blade to cut your pieces for the bucksaw. So no, in the interest of time, Kelly using a saw to cut the pieces makes sense.
I don't see a problem with using a tool to build a better tool of the same general type. Like having a small or even broken saw to build a bigger saw. The new saw is made to saw other types of things, like bigger trees. You scale up so to speak. Very logical in my view. Also, if you are in a group of people that all needs to use a saw at the same time for some work but you only got one working order saw and some broken ones, you can - if you are in a tight spot with no other options- create more working order saws by using the first one. Again, very logical. Makes great sense
+Kanzee It's a reminder of who the old bull of the woods is there. You notice Kelly didn't feel insulted. Also it is a reminder that the more you do something the faster it goes.
Ease up tiger. Always work at a pace that you can work at all day. Take your time. If you burn out right away, why bother. You do not need to do it in 60 sec. It's a saw. If you need a saw that quick, you have far larger problems. My grandfather always taught me to work at an all-day pace. When you are doing 16 hours of farm work a day, you don't burn out your arms. Walking is easy, arms get weak pretty fast if you get excited.
My Opa always use to give my uncle crap when he saw him using the saw "Stop going at it like it's your first time stroking off" I always think about that for some reason it sticks with me.
I don't get the 60 second thing ether. If the saw takes half an hour, or half a day in the class, why rush the peeling? Seems like an easy way to cut yourself. Not a good thing in the woods.
It's funny how the elder master couldn't just let his student fill the video :) You either step in into the frame or keep silent. Sorry for offence, but it's really an exam for pride control.
Mors has the gift of being able to explain what he is doing and expanding on it while doing it. Some folks, while they can do the task expertly, don't have the gift of gab. I always enjoy hearing from the old master.
Others don't mention the importance of the triangle... thanks for the reminder
Thanks for the demonstration, simple, fast and useful, all the best, Taro
twenty minutes from start to finish!...pretty dang sweet knife skills Kelly, thanks!...woods
I've never seen the V-notch technique before. Usually it's a mortise and tenon.
Is there a cordage that isn't as elastice?
Cimbrer - Viking traditions, made a small intricately carved and curved backpack size bucksaw.
Great design Kelly.My hat is tipped.Thank you.
Fantastic video! Great having one of mors students/teacher demonstrate and help out while Mors talks about it. Thank you
Thank you Mors and Kelly for sharing your knowledge through these excellent videos!
Hi everyone! quick responses to some of the comments: yeah key ring idea great! we have used..and many others...e.g. mors flattens a penny and rolls it up to make pin! for a natural choice, I've used a 'nail' from a dead pine tree in a pinch (hard small branch) holds up surprisingly well. Knife used..my fav...Skookum Bush tool. 60 sec thing..yeah just a level of efficiency fun to eventually try to aspire too haha..not all that important. no rush unless a life at stake. Thanks for future video ideas! and lastly, karamat trying new format...I kinda like! as it give mors the chance to narrate/expand on the subject matter, while his flunky gets to make some chips fly :-) Thanks for Comments and Thanks for watching!
That's a very neat design! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Fantastic demo and narration. These 2 make a great team and the mutual respect and admiration is evident. Thanks for posting so much of this awesome content where so many people can get a chance to see it.
Much easier and more efficient than the previous two brace method Mors showed in his tools video. Thank you for showing and posting.
Excellent tutorial! Really enjoyed all of the discussion that arose from the project. Thank you very much for sharing Sir. -Lochlainn
Thanks Kelly and Mors for taking the time to teach us. Here is my video of my saw. ua-cam.com/video/SSgZRi_i2Yg/v-deo.html
I also wanted to show you guys my belt to hold my sweet saw blade. Please say hi to Mors.
ua-cam.com/video/KannrvZf0VU/v-deo.html
Great review for those of us who attended the summer course. Enjoy using it when heading out to cut small trees for day fires at home. I was surprised at how efficient it is when cutting wood, and feel confident in adding it to the day pack. Thanks and hope to see you at the winter course, all the best.
Good point about simply wrapping a rag handle onto the blade in order to craft the frame. Even some bark and grass would probably work its just a few small cuts, especially used in conjunction with chisel batoning to finish a cut like Mors mentioned, probably can just pinch the blade at that point...
I gave about six different versions a try and with none of them I had success. This one was easy to follow and the saw I made performs excellent. Thank you very much.
Andreas
this is fantastic design and efficient work, thanks for sharing! I'll be trying this in the UK this weekend.
Great take on the bucksaw! I might try this one. Thanks!
maybe a suggestion I would like to give is maybe using a split ring in place of the bolts to pin the blade may work better, thank you for the great videos though and always look forward to them keep them coming.
one nice thing about a heavy saw is that the extra weight gives greater stability in the cut and lets more surface of the teeth contact the wood, letting you cut faster.
Once again, great instruction and demo!
I like this new video format!
Brilliant design, I salute you.
Excellent demonstration!
Thank you sirs.
pleasure to meet you Kelly! sorry I was a little star struck.
fantastic idea, ill be sure to try this out and compare it with having just the one brace
i see a lot of folks making these things and maybe eventually will try, but for now i'm buying readymade--expensive, but beautiful. enjoyed and subscribed.
Very good work
Great video.............can't wait to try and make one 👍
Nice. I do a v-shape, or tepee type I came up with. It uses only two sticks and one small stick for the tension and threads. The tension and treads is on the front side instead of on the top. It is strong enough, very light in the hand, nimble and balanced. Ergonomics is also better. Best is, it packs well together with the blade. It does however take somewhat longer time to make, to get notches straight. So far alder was my preference. But pine or something would also work. The cuts for the blade can be made some concave to negotiate straigthness.
Love this video can we the public gain access to Mors Kashski?
Great design! I'll try making one or two.
Thanks for these videos.
This is a good format now that Mors is aging, have Kelly do the demo and have Mors narrate. I t would be nice to sees Mors.
If you were to carry one saw blade into the woods would it be a Green wood blade (raker teeth) or a dead wood blade? Thanks for the very professional demonstration in such an expedient manner.
dry wood, dry wood blade can cut both dry and green wood, but for very wet green wood, gets shavings stuck between the teeth. But green wood blade can only cut green wood and doesn't cut dry wood efficiently.
Unless you use your saw for gardening or maintainance of trees, I would recommand a dry wood blade concerning the need to make fire and the versatility
wow, great instruction, thank you
Good Job Kelly! :D
If the knife has a 90 degree edge on the back you can peel things faster without cutting in to the wood.
Good vid. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for a great vid gents.
Nice, I like this! Thank you for showing this, I will have to try making one, I also liked the saw u used to make the saw and your knife, could u please tell me what they are called. Thank you
I use a keychain ring instead of a bolt because it wont fall off.
I found cobbling together a frame each time more hassle than it is worth. With the above carry method, simply put the wooden pieces in your pack and clip the blade to the outside. No more cut hands or packs!
+Prepare2Survive Nice tip with the keychain rings. When I was young and first starting out I used to use a couple of door hinges with long wood screws to hold the H till I got enough practice to make a frame that didn't wobble.
Canterbury does the same, I like that idea. Any reason we couldn't just use wooden pegs?
justin bartelen
The only reason is wood pegs are easier to break.
very nice, thank you
Thank you!
Mesterne i skogen. Takk for all skole.
It seems that every video that I see on how to make a buck saw starts of with the video maker using another saw to cut the parts needed to make the bucksaw frame.
+bwillan He probably could have batoned the parts out of the blank or a tiny saw on a pocket knife would work. ;) Seems kind of silly to use a saw to make a saw.
Easy to do with an axe.(in a demonstration I make the whole frame with an axe except the v notch in the cross piece)...or the last 6 inches of the saw blade with a rag wrapped around for handle, or in a pinch I've simply used dead sticks...scared with knife and broke over knee . I was challenging myself to make a saw frame in less than 5 minutes (can send you picture of this rough but totally usable frame!) Thanks for comments!
It is like making a lathe, to make a lathe you have to have a lathe. It would have been more realistic to wrap the buck saw blade with cloth and use it.
I don't see a problem with using a tool to build a better tool of the same general type. Like having a small or even broken saw to build a bigger saw. The new saw is made to saw other things, like bigger trees. You scale up so to speak. Very logical in my view.
Also, if you are in a group of people that all needs to use a saw at the same time for some work but you only got one saw, you can - if you are in a tight spot with no other options- create more saws by using the first one. Again, very logical. Makes great sense.
And as pointed out in the video, the blade used for the new bucksaw could probably have been used to build the frame for it. I think it would be a very inconvenient thing to do the latter, but it is a fair point. Showing that is besides the scope and wouldn't add much aside from showing what everyone would know already: it is very inconvenient and probably the very reason a frame is build for the blade.
21:39 never seen this style before...interesting
Do you have a video / or can produce a *video series*, on Tree (wood) identification (4seasons usages), from the Living tree - to the proper Harvesting - to the processing and best tools (knife & axe / saw / lodges / bark cordage / root cordage / medicinal properties / containers/ baskets/ canoe/ which is the best charcoal material / cooking utensils / water resistant for small game, fish traps, snowshoes, /pack frame,/ edible trees, weapons and hunting tools.. etc etc..) to make from each specie. We have your book, with some identifications and uses, but no one in the Bushcraft community has produced a Good *video Series* on this subject. ...miigwetch (thank you) for all your work.
+Kanzee Books are better for plant ID. What you are asking would take years to make and years to learn. Shortcuts always take longer in the end.
Ingeneous way to lock in the geometry. Tensegrity as a sway brace, a la Buckminster Fuller.
That was the one thing I have not done when making a bush saw, will have to try it with the Scout troop.
Does seem strange to use one saw to make another. Wish the camera had been closer to see better what he was doing during the assembly. Still another good video though.
I don't see a problem with using a tool to build a better tool of the same general type. Like having a small or even broken saw to build a bigger saw. The new saw is made to saw other things, like bigger trees. You scale up so to speak. Very logical in my view.
Also, if you are in a group of people that all needs to use a saw at the same time for some work but you only got one working order saw and some broken ones, you can - if you are in a tight spot with no other options- create more working order saws by using the first one. Again, very logical. Makes great sense.
Actually i have used the blade itself few times, just be carefull not to cut yourself
Genius
Do you carry tools to sharpen the saw with you in the bush?
As far as bow saws go, I have an older 21" with a wingnut tensioner. The stationary pin fit into the blade hole but the pin on the tensioner would not go in. Could this be because of the rust patina coat? I tried pressing it in but it was still a tad too big. None of the old bowsaws I picked up have that lever action tensioner on them.
it is a bit too late, but to my knowledge, there were bowsaw blades with holes that are rounded rectangles. Some also have larger holes. In my area it is impossible to buy the wing nut kind, which is the kind i prefer.
what knife is that? great demo
Skookum Bushtool
As I recall pine trees are very sticky?
11:25 LOL an anomaly , indeed..LOL
what's wrong with using a castle nut setup then?
other than presentation, why the rush? Last thing you want in the bush is a gash..
What hand saw and blade are you using in this video? What blade do you suggest for the bow saw?
Yeah admittedly most the blades for 'swed saws' or 'bow saws' that are available from regular stores are pretty crappy. A few places on line you can order good ones. I was lucky and given a handful of excellent quality sharpenable blades. Message me if you would like online contacts. Here is the saw I'm using to make the saw ha-ha www.silkysaws.com/Silky_Saws/Curved_2/Sugoi-360mm-Handsaw-1373#sthash.t3cjWE2j.dpbs
+bushmankel Could you let me know where to find the blades you recommend? I sent you a message, but no reply. I hope you're out in the woods having fun! Thanks!
+bushmankel you should check out some of those CutBrik bow saw blades at Lee Valley. They are very inexpensive, and I have found them to outdo all the hardware store blades I've encountered. They are made in Portugal.
+Citizen Smith right, Lee valley of course! thanks for posting tip!
+bushmankel you guys are set up pretty close to be I think, right? I'm in Manitoba. You guys are only about a day's drive I think.
Using a saw to make a saw? Anyone else wonder about this?
If you are carrying a saw blade with you (Kelly does say this at the beginning of the video) you could use that saw blade to cut your pieces for the bucksaw. So no, in the interest of time, Kelly using a saw to cut the pieces makes sense.
I will have to give that a try. I'm guessing it's easier said than done with a 24" or longer blade. We will see.
I don't see a problem with using a tool to build a better tool of the same general type. Like having a small or even broken saw to build a bigger saw. The new saw is made to saw other types of things, like bigger trees. You scale up so to speak. Very logical in my view.
Also, if you are in a group of people that all needs to use a saw at the same time for some work but you only got one working order saw and some broken ones, you can - if you are in a tight spot with no other options- create more working order saws by using the first one. Again, very logical. Makes great sense
4:05 Less than 60 secs ?? Why the rush on the work ? Unless you want to increase your body heat in the cold ? 2:00 - 5:00 is pretty darn fast.
+Kanzee It's a reminder of who the old bull of the woods is there. You notice Kelly didn't feel insulted. Also it is a reminder that the more you do something the faster it goes.
kellys humor and great display of mature response, was phenominal...that is the makings of a great instructor..cheers
Also they address that speed is what cuts through the knots in the wood. These guys have everything down to a science.
Ease up tiger. Always work at a pace that you can work at all day. Take your time. If you burn out right away, why bother. You do not need to do it in 60 sec. It's a saw. If you need a saw that quick, you have far larger problems. My grandfather always taught me to work at an all-day pace. When you are doing 16 hours of farm work a day, you don't burn out your arms. Walking is easy, arms get weak pretty fast if you get excited.
My Opa always use to give my uncle crap when he saw him using the saw "Stop going at it like it's your first time stroking off" I always think about that for some reason it sticks with me.
I was taught that you never want to break into a sweat in the bush, unless you can strip down so your clothes stay dry.
Can someone get this guy a pair of cut gloves and chaps, making me anxious.
I don't get the 60 second thing ether. If the saw takes half an hour, or half a day in the class, why rush the peeling? Seems like an easy way to cut yourself. Not a good thing in the woods.
He said in his Prime he could peel a walking stick in 60 seconds, probably two or three minute is more realistic.
He explains how going fast is the key to cutting through the knots in wood!! Everything these guys do has a reason.
It's funny how the elder master couldn't just let his student fill the video :) You either step in into the frame or keep silent. Sorry for offence, but it's really an exam for pride control.
Mors has the gift of being able to explain what he is doing and expanding on it while doing it. Some folks, while they can do the task expertly, don't have the gift of gab. I always enjoy hearing from the old master.