How To Fix Warping And Adhesion Problems | Tips & Tricks
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- Опубліковано 28 тра 2024
- Are you tired of your 3D prints warping or failing to stick to the bed? Look no further!
In this video, I will walk you through step-by-step solutions to tackle warping and adhesion issues in 3D printing.
From adjusting bed leveling and temperature settings to utilizing different types of adhesion aids, we've got you covered. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced maker, these tips and tricks will help you achieve flawless prints every time.
Don't let warping ruin your prints-watch now and take your 3D printing game to the next level!
I also sell my Nespresso pod holders from the video on my Etsy store:
techdannydesigns.etsy.com
Timestamps:
00:00 Introduction
00:15 3D printing Issues I Had
00:43 Common reasons for these problems
00:56 Leveling and Z-Offset
01:21 Bed Temperature
01:34 Glue Sticks
01:48 Results
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Thank you for the short, no-nonsense informative video
And thank you for watching!
It’s recommended to wash your bed with dish soap every now and then. I normally clean with isopropyl alcohol but occasionally start having adhesion issues. Wash with dish soap and water and off to the races again.
Couldn’t agree more. I also want to add, keep an eye on your seams this could also be causing your warping issues.
How am I post to clean my print bed with soap I have glue on it when I put soap/water on it the glue reactivates
Thanks for the Useful Tip this might help with My ABS prints lifting slightly at the corners
Printing with PLA I keep my bed temp at 60 and nozzle at 205 for first layer. I also lower the speed for the first layer to 30mm/s (I can print up to 150mm/s). After the first layer I increase my speed to 60 mm/s and keep nozzle temp at 205 and keep the bed temp at 60 for the remainder of the print. I do not use any adhesion just a clean bed.
Thank you kindly for the concise info!!
Thank you for watching!
Thank you so much! Fixed the issue for me complitely, but it works too well...
Amazing video! It doesn't matter if your channel is small, you can still make great things!
Thank you! I appreciate that. I just always try to make my next video better than my last.
i use aquanet hair spray for a glue. it is cheaper and works after cleaning with hot water and soap, then ipa. also with something like that adding a bigger brim or tabs works to help the sides not warp.
To-The-Point!
I was having the same issue with IPA someone recommended Acetone and now i use that. So far it has been working great. I like not having to use the glue stick. I put the acetone in a spray bottle give it a few squirts and wipe it down. I would avoid any heat source's.
Using a smooth PEI build plate helps. It can stick almost too good. The downside is that they are more sensitive to fatty fingerprints compared to textured plates.
I've found that soap and water work better than ethanol. And avoid fingerprints. Not all fingers are a problem but mine are
Yes, fingerprints are a big problem.
Had the same issue, same printer. Wash with soap and water. Bed temp is always 70 and i use brims on everything. Never had a problem since. After the print, if you allow the bed to cool completely (i turn on a fan) the print releases completely on its own, and you dont need to clean the bed to print again.
Great advise!
Hey boss so im having an issue maybe you can help with. I basically am having issues with the bed temp ive been keeping it at 50 and the nozzle temp at 220 with the z at -1.87. The issue is that some prints have been printing just fine but others wont get the first layer down right or if they do it starts getting like straight spaghetti. I think I’ve narrowed it down to bed temps but I have no idea. It printed very well once and then the next time i couldnt get the first layer down i started using elmers glue and that seems to help but then the first layer will be separated by gaps
Is it PLA? Try 60 and 200. It also sounds like your first layer is too high. There is no right number to tell you for the z-level, you need to see where it's at. The filament needs to slightly smash down on the bed.
Watch my video on bed leveling, and that should help you too.
@@VaderDadBuilds sounds good boss i tried the auto leveling and i tried doing the paper method but it didnt work and yes it was pla sir. Ive also tried putting the Z nozzle while it’s printing higher and lower, but the only difference I can notice was that when I changed it its height up or down it would still get dragged in the corners
When I bought my X1 Carbon I bought an additional pack from my vendor that included a tube of 3D LAC, it works just great but the pad wears down before even 10% of the liquid is used, they do have a spray version that I will buy when this one runs out though, once the pad is no longer functional I will cut the top off and transfer the liquid to an atomisor.
Good to know. I haven't used 10% yet, but I was actually wondering if that pad would last.
Purple Elmer’s glue $1.79. Works great for ASA & ABS
3d printing glue stick $17.
It’s a no brainer.
aquanet or a little watered down wood glue works also.
Looking at the print bed from the top-down, what does a good smush look like? The extrusion of material is so tiny, it is difficult to see without magnification?
I plan on posting another video about getting the perfect 1st layer. I will be sure to get a good close up.
Also, all pla, pla plus, silk gold pla, 210 first layer, 205 after. Never a failed print
After applying glue stick I use a scraper to spread the glue into a thin layer
That's a great tip!
I've never needed glue stick on textured pei. My printer is enclosed though. That shouldn't matter as I take enclosure off for PLA, and prints still stick. Parts only come off after the plate cooled down. I use window cleaner to clean the surface. Works beautifully and is dirt cheap.
Pei + aceton 👌
Ender is alway problems