Sorry about the silence at the start! Decided to just mute it rather than re upload thanks to some shady BS copywrite claim... Skip to 0:39 for the start! Cheers!
Those 'marks' aren't for placing a boarding ladder, as the Hawg has an integral one. The single one on the left was a reference for where we would slide our left foot straight down from to catch the first step of the integral boarding ladder when de-assing the jet. They also help mark good hand hold locations when getting in (your hands won't bump anything important or breakable).
Back in the 80's I worked at Teledyne Electronics, which made that IFF box, so I enjoyed seeing it in your simulator. Very cool. Here are a few fun facts, for all the IFF buffs out there: 1. Mode-4 is the encrypted one. Believe it or not, the device they used for loading the encryption key into the transponder every day on the flight line was mechanical, not electrical. The key was encoded in a group of rods by changing how far they stuck out. When they pushed the key device into the transponder, the rods would move switches or something inside the transponder. 2. We at Teledyne not only manufactured the NATO style transponders like this one, we also made soviet style IFF gear for sale to Egypt, and other former-soviet-block countries. 3. The soviet system was stupid. They used a series of tones at different frequencies (like a touch-tone phone) and the timing was always the same. That was stupid because we could listen to them interrogate each other, measure the time delays, and work out their positions by triangulation. In contrast, the NATO system mode 4 delayed the replies according to a crypto system. You couldn't predict the delays without the key, so they couldn't triangulate our positions. 4. Teledyne Electronics went out of business in 1989 because all the top executives, including the president, went to prison for attempting to bribe a government official. I was there when the FBI raided the place. I happen to be walking through the lobby when 3 or 4 black sedans pulled up and a bunch of guys in 3-piece suits got out. I thought to myself "is there some big meeting today that I didn't know about?"
There was definitely a big meeting that nobody knew about. If there is a takeaway to be had here, its: Don't bribe government officials...unless you're really good friends
That IFF panel is dope! I’m a retired Air Force Avionics guy. IFF was always one of my favorite things to troubleshoot! Totally needing out over your setup bro!!
I noticed that you are stiving for authenticity with your cockpit. I also noticed that you Antenna select panel EGI TOD switch in incorrectly labeled. The top switch position should be labeled ARC-210 and the bottom switch position is labeled ARC-164, with the middle labeled as off (to the right of the switch). Just as an FyI. The console looks awesome as it is. Great Job!!
Good eye! This was the old modelled DCS A-10C, not sure which exact suite that was based on but it had no ARC-210 fitted. The new one in DCS A-10C II Tank Killer is more modern, so that radio is now fitted, and the select panel has been updated as well!
Excellent video! I would like to see you do a video with more detail on how you wired up the boards ( Aurduio and Bodner) then got them to "talk" to the sim. Keep up the great work, your cockpit makes me want to build one.
The Bodner card is easy to wire up and is plug and play (well the one that I wired up), but the Aurduio I struggle with due to having to programme the card. Every tutorial video I have watched seem to assume one has a degree in programming, none seems to consider that some go not.
Gorgeous built. I am currently researching (and partway through) a basic (very basic in comparison) mock up for general aviation use and your videos are certainly an inspiration to what's possible. I can already see that any project in this hobby I start is going to be an, albeit fun, a very long, drawn out learning experience. Pretty exciting stuff and thanks for sharing!
Brilliant build. I've watched several in the series. IFF panel mode 1, 2, 3. operate same in heavy civil AC. Mode IV has a special box that daily codes are loaded into. Those you should never find for sale.
Great work. When the intercom panel has a function muted it works well that the back-lighting extinguishes. When night flying this likely to be clearer at a glance than ones you pull up. Utility light addition and mod is cool. The 3 way switch for use with the toggle protector is a good solution also. I would use this in the future as opposed to a small push button which it holds in when opened. Well done again, cheers
Cheers. I actually planned to have the Intercom panel text backlit with WS2812b RGB leds, so I could have the text turn to red when it were muted. I tried for months but unfortunately ended up getting nowhere with the code. Seems they just won't play with DCS BIOS. The on-off with a normal led took all of five minutes!
Awesome again mate. If I could suggest a solution for the Fuel RCVR lever. Maybe use some small rare earth magnets at each end of the throw to give it a ‘clunk’ feeling and help hold it in place.
Attach a compression spring vertically below the lever. This will give it a resistance moving it towards the centre and then snaps to the new position when passed the centre point.
I would love something like this for a Mech game. I've always wanted a proper "Mech Simulator" game that is as in depth as flight sims, with all the toggles, buttons and encoders serving an actual function and able to be made to work with a physical panel.
i dont know if youre doing that already, but if you use the arduino to switch the backlighting of the lables from the dimmer using transistors you can still light them on with their respective switches and still dim them.
Hey and lots of thanks for sharing this project with us. i started my own little projects of some panels from the A10 C II and wondering where do you find the size of the panels? Can you plesse share with me the size of the LAAP (Low altitude auto pilot) panel?
10:12 - you have it reversed but I also don't remember how DCS has it at the moment. You pull the radio rotary to unmute it. Crew chiefs have to pull the HM and INT knobs to be able to communicate with the pilots on startup, else they forget to haha
Good lord, I hated that FILLS port, I used to be in the US Army and it was always a royal PITA trying to get a good connection through it on the AH-64(A/D). I was more interested in how you attached each panel to the MDF while retaining the feel of the cockpit. I am working on my M939 that I’m converting for motor home use and have few things I’m adding, like an Arduino cruise control, Arduino water/methanol controller, Arduino propane injection controller, Arduino collection point for all of the engine functions and info, and a Raspberry Pi and screen for a MFD. I want that cockpit look for the multiple panels, however I’m not willing to spend over $100US for each individual D5 DZUS panel screw and appropriate screw mount in the mating surface. After watching your video I’m thinking of using hex head machine threaded screws into rivnuts mounted to the 16g sheet metal I have for the overhead console. Any other ideas to achieve something similar? Thanks! Edited for spelling and grammar.
Hi...Have you had any requests to build these cockpits for somebody? They look awesome! Like, how much power does a full cockpit draw when running? Would it not be cheaper to have a real one burning kerosine 80)?
Amazing Work for Sure..I have ben a Electronics Tech For Most of my Life as well as a Electronics Enthusiast /computer tech/nerd..lol. & i know First Hand How Much Work That Takes As Well As Skills & I Gota Say You Did a Hell Of A Job On Both ! I build a lot of High End computers & Servers For Gaming an i built a few Button Boxes & RPM Tach Gauge's for Sims & Even They Take Some Time To Do Right ! But I Just Wanted To Say Good Work ,It Looks Bad As* And Very Cool ! Thanks For Sharing !
cool video -- thanks for all the insights I would like to do the same for the F16 .... I am in the pre-planning phase. Do you have some hints, where I should start reading.
The one thing I never understood about these projects is how you map the physical controls to the game? Do you built your own USB controller and drivers? I do know DCS allows for multiple inputs.
The Leo Bodnar cards he refers to appear to Windoze as a joystick with a crapload of buttons on it, you can map them to their functions in DCS. Using Arduino boards is cheaper but requires extra technical knowledge because you have to use something like DCS-BIOS to interface it with DCS and be comfortable programming Arduino boards (at least to the extent of cutting and pasting code snippets) -it’s not plug and play.
Beautiful. Comment: MDF is *never* the right material. With that beautiful a console, and so much work and labor, it deserves a top-shelf multi-ply plywood cabinet. Baltic Birch is the budget multi-ply plywood - there are even better grades with a maple veneer.
Love all the attention to detail. Did you have to modify the HOTAS at all? I have one myself which I’d like to use. Did you design it to easily slide out of the frame, or is it in there permanently?
Great video, but at 15:32 your label says "GUAGE" instead of "GAUGE" so you're going to have to throw the whole thing out and start from scratch ;) Seriously, this is beautiful. Thanks for the video!
Yeah I am aware of that typo. It's on both of the plugs. I didn't plan on fixing it, because I figured no one would ever notice. But then you come along... and now I have to cut new ones! Lol
Love your videoz. I'm planning on making a generic console for DCS planes. One question, on two or three positions toggle switches where each position performs a certain task. Can you use off-on switches or you are forced to on-on switches?
On-Off switches. When interfacing with an arduino, the signal goes to the off pin and the ground to the on pin. One a 3 way, center is ground and signals are the two on positions.
If you had a vr headset and a 5 dollar mouse you could have saved a lot of money and it would be a lot more realistic. At least visually flying that is. That is a cool setup though.
@@thewarthogproject I meant just the perception of your environment. I got the fly a real WH sim at an AFB near me a few years ago. The entire room was somehow a video screen. Just sitting in a real cockpit and flying was probably one of the most awesome things I have ever done.
Great ... build ... period. Wow. Whut does someone want beside a real A-10 sittin' in their driveway ? An very cool opening graphics with more cool orchestral whut-not. Dramatascie-extraordinaire as they say in the France. It has tha sertaine je ne sais pas. Anyways, my thanks for these videos in the form of deep-voice announcer: "War-Thog. Close-Air jus' got a new name." Yores free, mate to use as tag line. No charge. peace
Sorry about the silence at the start! Decided to just mute it rather than re upload thanks to some shady BS copywrite claim... Skip to 0:39 for the start! Cheers!
Those 'marks' aren't for placing a boarding ladder, as the Hawg has an integral one. The single one on the left was a reference for where we would slide our left foot straight down from to catch the first step of the integral boarding ladder when de-assing the jet. They also help mark good hand hold locations when getting in (your hands won't bump anything important or breakable).
Thanks! There was a thread on the forums where everyone was debating what they were for... and everyones guesses were wrong! Cheers!
Hog-driver or chief?
And where were you out of? I was at DM from 03-08’
Back in the 80's I worked at Teledyne Electronics, which made that IFF box, so I enjoyed seeing it in your simulator. Very cool.
Here are a few fun facts, for all the IFF buffs out there:
1. Mode-4 is the encrypted one. Believe it or not, the device they used for loading the encryption key into the transponder every day on the flight line was mechanical, not electrical. The key was encoded in a group of rods by changing how far they stuck out. When they pushed the key device into the transponder, the rods would move switches or something inside the transponder.
2. We at Teledyne not only manufactured the NATO style transponders like this one, we also made soviet style IFF gear for sale to Egypt, and other former-soviet-block countries.
3. The soviet system was stupid. They used a series of tones at different frequencies (like a touch-tone phone) and the timing was always the same. That was stupid because we could listen to them interrogate each other, measure the time delays, and work out their positions by triangulation. In contrast, the NATO system mode 4 delayed the replies according to a crypto system. You couldn't predict the delays without the key, so they couldn't triangulate our positions.
4. Teledyne Electronics went out of business in 1989 because all the top executives, including the president, went to prison for attempting to bribe a government official. I was there when the FBI raided the place. I happen to be walking through the lobby when 3 or 4 black sedans pulled up and a bunch of guys in 3-piece suits got out. I thought to myself "is there some big meeting today that I didn't know about?"
There was definitely a big meeting that nobody knew about. If there is a takeaway to be had here, its: Don't bribe government officials...unless you're really good friends
How can this be not classified information?
@@yosyp5905 By beeing outdated and useless information, even though its still interesting.
Thanks for sharing, was very cool to hear about how the Soviet systems were.
is it just me or is the video a little weired like some frames jump to the left a little bit
yeah, I had to stop watching 3 minutes in. It was making me dizzy. It's a shame, because I did want to finish the video.
Its trying to deinterlace but has the video cadence wrong
That IFF panel is dope! I’m a retired Air Force Avionics guy. IFF was always one of my favorite things to troubleshoot! Totally needing out over your setup bro!!
Right! totally nerding out. I'm former USN Avionics Tech & Aircrew. This is bitchin cool. Way beyond my capabilities, so much respect.
I noticed that you are stiving for authenticity with your cockpit. I also noticed that you Antenna select panel EGI TOD switch in incorrectly labeled. The top switch position should be labeled ARC-210 and the bottom switch position is labeled ARC-164, with the middle labeled as off (to the right of the switch). Just as an FyI. The console looks awesome as it is. Great Job!!
Good eye! This was the old modelled DCS A-10C, not sure which exact suite that was based on but it had no ARC-210 fitted. The new one in DCS A-10C II Tank Killer is more modern, so that radio is now fitted, and the select panel has been updated as well!
Hawk mech, Avi?
Looks awesome. Your craftsmanship is spot on. Congrats.
Excellent video! I would like to see you do a video with more detail on how you wired up the boards ( Aurduio and Bodner) then got them to "talk" to the sim. Keep up the great work, your cockpit makes me want to build one.
The Bodner card is easy to wire up and is plug and play (well the one that I wired up), but the Aurduio I struggle with due to having to programme the card. Every tutorial video I have watched seem to assume one has a degree in programming, none seems to consider that some go not.
Gorgeous built. I am currently researching (and partway through) a basic (very basic in comparison) mock up for general aviation use and your videos are certainly an inspiration to what's possible. I can already see that any project in this hobby I start is going to be an, albeit fun, a very long, drawn out learning experience. Pretty exciting stuff and thanks for sharing!
Brilliant build. I've watched several in the series. IFF panel mode 1, 2, 3. operate same in heavy civil AC. Mode IV has a special box that daily codes are loaded into. Those you should never find for sale.
Mate, the attention to detail and effort you have put into this is extremely admirable!
this is genious. I build just some switches with one Teensy board. You are on a totally different level. Congrats!
Man you're awesome ! You deserve way more subs with all this hard work !
This is absolutely amazing work!
Great work. When the intercom panel has a function muted it works well that the back-lighting extinguishes. When night flying this likely to be clearer at a glance than ones you pull up.
Utility light addition and mod is cool. The 3 way switch for use with the toggle protector is a good solution also. I would use this in the future as opposed to a small push button which it holds in when opened.
Well done again, cheers
Cheers. I actually planned to have the Intercom panel text backlit with WS2812b RGB leds, so I could have the text turn to red when it were muted. I tried for months but unfortunately ended up getting nowhere with the code. Seems they just won't play with DCS BIOS. The on-off with a normal led took all of five minutes!
Aw yeah, I wasn't expecting this, pleasant surprise.
Awesome again mate. If I could suggest a solution for the Fuel RCVR lever. Maybe use some small rare earth magnets at each end of the throw to give it a ‘clunk’ feeling and help hold it in place.
You right, i use this tricks for my gear lever on my mirage cockpit
Good idea! Might give that a shot!
@@psycokilol Neodynium magnets rule!
Attach a compression spring vertically below the lever. This will give it a resistance moving it towards the centre and then snaps to the new position when passed the centre point.
Bloody fantastic. One day I'll get my life in order so I can build something like this...
One day I will live somewhere with enough room to do this!
I would love something like this for a Mech game. I've always wanted a proper "Mech Simulator" game that is as in depth as flight sims, with all the toggles, buttons and encoders serving an actual function and able to be made to work with a physical panel.
i dont know if youre doing that already, but if you use the arduino to switch the backlighting of the lables from the dimmer using transistors you can still light them on with their respective switches and still dim them.
Fantastic, congratulations
Hey and lots of thanks for sharing this project with us. i started my own little projects of some panels from the A10 C II and wondering where do you find the size of the panels? Can you plesse share with me the size of the LAAP (Low altitude auto pilot) panel?
10:12 - you have it reversed but I also don't remember how DCS has it at the moment. You pull the radio rotary to unmute it. Crew chiefs have to pull the HM and INT knobs to be able to communicate with the pilots on startup, else they forget to haha
I thought my headphones were broken! >:) you devil
Yeah sorry- bs copywrite claim on the intro music so i muted it rather than let that asshat take my already tiny revenue...
Very nice Sir. Looks awesome. Really nice set of features your have included in some of the panels
Good lord, I hated that FILLS port, I used to be in the US Army and it was always a royal PITA trying to get a good connection through it on the AH-64(A/D). I was more interested in how you attached each panel to the MDF while retaining the feel of the cockpit. I am working on my M939 that I’m converting for motor home use and have few things I’m adding, like an Arduino cruise control, Arduino water/methanol controller, Arduino propane injection controller, Arduino collection point for all of the engine functions and info, and a Raspberry Pi and screen for a MFD. I want that cockpit look for the multiple panels, however I’m not willing to spend over $100US for each individual D5 DZUS panel screw and appropriate screw mount in the mating surface. After watching your video I’m thinking of using hex head machine threaded screws into rivnuts mounted to the 16g sheet metal I have for the overhead console. Any other ideas to achieve something similar? Thanks!
Edited for spelling and grammar.
Hi...Have you had any requests to build these cockpits for somebody? They look awesome! Like, how much power does a full cockpit draw when running? Would it not be cheaper to have a real one burning kerosine 80)?
Amazing Work for Sure..I have ben a Electronics Tech For Most of my Life as well as a Electronics Enthusiast /computer tech/nerd..lol. & i know First Hand How Much Work That Takes As Well As Skills & I Gota Say You Did a Hell Of A Job On Both ! I build a lot of High End computers & Servers For Gaming an i built a few Button Boxes & RPM Tach Gauge's for Sims & Even They Take Some Time To Do Right ! But I Just Wanted To Say Good Work ,It Looks Bad As* And Very Cool ! Thanks For Sharing !
I want this for the a10, f-18 and the Apache
Where ever did you get the flashlight? That's AWESOME.
cool video -- thanks for all the insights
I would like to do the same for the F16 .... I am in the pre-planning phase. Do you have some hints, where I should start reading.
Does the actual cockpit roll in real life when you roll in the flight sim?
The one thing I never understood about these projects is how you map the physical controls to the game? Do you built your own USB controller and drivers? I do know DCS allows for multiple inputs.
The Leo Bodnar cards he refers to appear to Windoze as a joystick with a crapload of buttons on it, you can map them to their functions in DCS. Using Arduino boards is cheaper but requires extra technical knowledge because you have to use something like DCS-BIOS to interface it with DCS and be comfortable programming Arduino boards (at least to the extent of cutting and pasting code snippets) -it’s not plug and play.
When are you going to build the gun?
I just realised the importance of the buttkicker under the seat
Beautiful.
Comment: MDF is *never* the right material. With that beautiful a console, and so much work and labor, it deserves a top-shelf multi-ply plywood cabinet. Baltic Birch is the budget multi-ply plywood - there are even better grades with a maple veneer.
How do you start the power supply you have built in there?
How did you interface you arduinos to get info from the sim. I’m trying to do something similar with a helicopter
I'm using DCS-BIOS as an interface with all the arduinos.
Holy Shit! How long did it take to design and build all that? Excellent!!!
On and off for nearly 10 years
OMG , amazing job
Do u have the dimensions for this would love to be able to go to a shop and say please cut it
Very nice! what rotary encoders/switches you used?
you sir....are amazing
Absolutely amazing build. How many hours do you think you put into building the panel?
Love all the attention to detail. Did you have to modify the HOTAS at all? I have one myself which I’d like to use. Did you design it to easily slide out of the frame, or is it in there permanently?
No mods at all. It is just bolted in with the standard 4 mounting holes. Just undo those and it slides out.
Great video, but at 15:32 your label says "GUAGE" instead of "GAUGE" so you're going to have to throw the whole thing out and start from scratch ;)
Seriously, this is beautiful. Thanks for the video!
Yeah I am aware of that typo. It's on both of the plugs. I didn't plan on fixing it, because I figured no one would ever notice. But then you come along... and now I have to cut new ones! Lol
No, sorry, the whole project is irreparably tarnished. You'd best just ship it to me, and let me take care of it for you, and start a new one.
@@RoamingAdhocrat Sorry shipping will cost way too much. I think it's safer for all of us that I just set the entire thing on fire.
Sometimes things are a "Reflection" of thier creator lol.
The Warthog Project Rushton's law:never count on no one noticing. When you do that they will always notice.
why is the intake fan on the floor. That's gonna give it dirty air
How much is each panel? like 10k? This is amazing
insane nice work !!!
On your COMM panel, how did you limit the switch travel to 3 or 4 positions only, or 5 for the intercom main switch?
Most, if not all, Rotary switches have a small washer insert that depending on which notch you put it in will limit the travel.
Sweet! Simple.
But for the Apache I wish I had 2x high end PC with 2x high end VR with realistic cockpit for pilot and cpg
Did all work ?
impressive
Love your videoz. I'm planning on making a generic console for DCS planes.
One question, on two or three positions toggle switches where each position performs a certain task. Can you use off-on switches or you are forced to on-on switches?
On-Off switches. When interfacing with an arduino, the signal goes to the off pin and the ground to the on pin. One a 3 way, center is ground and signals are the two on positions.
I think you just need to invest in a 4 axle motion hydrolic system so the whole thing moves in flight
I'd love a really complicated panel system to turn the lights off in my office.
Fabulous. Can ou verify the shapeways address. I tried it and there was a not found returned. TIA.
shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies?li=pb
Fixed!
@@thewarthogproject Thanks for fast fix.
If you had a vr headset and a 5 dollar mouse you could have saved a lot of money and it would be a lot more realistic. At least visually flying that is. That is a cool setup though.
I've got a VR headset. It is not more realistic!
@@thewarthogproject I meant just the perception of your environment. I got the fly a real WH sim at an AFB near me a few years ago. The entire room was somehow a video screen. Just sitting in a real cockpit and flying was probably one of the most awesome things I have ever done.
I'm guessing this guy's arm must be 12 ft long
Great ... build ... period.
Wow. Whut does someone want beside a real A-10 sittin' in their driveway ?
An very cool opening graphics with more cool orchestral whut-not. Dramatascie-extraordinaire as they say in the France. It has tha sertaine je ne sais pas.
Anyways, my thanks for these videos in the form of deep-voice announcer:
"War-Thog. Close-Air jus' got a new name."
Yores free, mate to use as tag line. No charge. peace
the camera is so glitched I can't watch
Can you make me one ?? $$