Xbox Series X Power Supply Diagnostics and Repair Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 11 лют 2024
- How to fix Xbox Series X faulty Power supply. Xbox Series X power supply repair. Xbox Series X power supply fuse replacement. Dead power supply Xbox. Xbox Series X power supply varistor replacement. Xbox Power Supply diagnostic. Xbox Power Supply MOSFET check. Xbox Power Supply diode bridge check. Xbox Power Supply diagnostic with a bulb. Switching power supply diagnostic with an incandescent bulb. Xbox Series X no power. Xbox Series X completely dead fix. Xbox series x power supply replacement. Xbox series x power supply issues. Xbox power supply not working.
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Great work.
Thanks!
Thank you very much great video
You are very welcome
I went balls deep on a faulty power supply and found an MPS HR1211 chip with an internal short on some pins causing the power supply output to short to ground. Unfortunately, the HR1211 chips are unobtainium even directly from MPS. I'm in the process of retrofitting a similar chip with similar functions but Im finding that the pin configuration is not very common.
Not a problem whatsoever: alii.pub/6wqog2
I bought that chip here multiple times.
hi man, first thing grate video like the other, i have a quick question do you think crashing every 3-4 games in this case in halo infinite is related to the thermal paste thing?
Overheating can be one of the reasons, but the problem can also be in tge SSD, video RAM, etc. If during those crashes, the fan works at high RPMs, I'd replace the paste and thermal putty. The last one is very important. Anyway, the stock paste dries out pretty quickly, and if you use your console, more than a year, there are high chances that it's baked already.
@@ElectronicsComputers i cleaned the console so it doesnt have high RPMs just mid game while playing my game freezes and i'm back in the home
@@justmario9704 If you removed the heatsink and didn't reshape the old thermal putty or apply new putty, your Video RAM chips won't receive proper cooling. When you remove the heatsink, there's a loss in thermal conductivity compared to before. Additionally, I'd recommend trying a hard reset of the console with offline update from a USB drive to potentially remap files on the SSD.
Thanks so much for the video, I'm desperately trying to fix my son's Xbox X. We do however hear an electrical arc when connecting the power supply, any advice would be greatly appreciated 👍
I'd start with checking the MOSFET and the diode on the heatsink. Can you measure the voltage on the big electrolytic cap? It should be in the range of 150-350 volts DC.
I’m having the same exact issue with my Xbox
Same here and I hardly even play my series x cuz I work a lot. Please advise needed
Thanks for the video. My power supply has a different layout but i was able to check the fuse and its blown. Hopefully its just that cause i can't get to any of the mosfets
Did it work?
@@ElectronicsComputers still waiting on the parts to arrive
It let out the magic smoke for me. Guess I'm buying a new power supply😅@@ElectronicsComputers
@@SER198503 That's where that trick with a bulb should have been used. You could connect a regular bulb instead of a fuse, and if it lights up brightly, there's a short somewhere. If it lights at a fraction of its brightness, the power supply is most likely alive, and you could replace the bulb with a fuse.
Is it possible to put a xbox one x internal hard drive into a xbox series s?
To add more storage?
Sure! I have a video on Xbox Series S|X upgrade.
Eu sou Brasileiro , não entendo ingles.
Mas eu gostei de um video seu que você coloca um SSD na placa-mãe do Xbox one X.
" É a placa-mãe ou o Xbox one X que reconhece um SSD de 8TB ?
* E aceita SSD de tamanho superior a 8TB ?
Se você deseja instalar um SSD internamente, a capacidade máxima disponível para o fator de forma M.2 2230 até o momento é de 2TB. No entanto, não há SSDs de 2TB no mercado que funcionem sem qualquer manipulação assim que saem da caixa. Portanto, suas opções são ou permanecer com um SSD interno de 1TB ou conectar um SSD externo usando um invólucro USB. Neste último caso, você pode usar qualquer SSD com capacidades de até 16TB.
@@ElectronicsComputers Eu pensei que dava para intalar internamente nvme 2280. Eu vi que tem nvme com velocidades superiores a 15000 MB/s , o one X deve ficar muito rapido conectando na USB do console.
obrigado!
My series x is new and its hardshut down when i play the finals for 30 min and lies of p shuts down after 3 4 hour and in other games works and others hard shutdown without overheat message and i did everything on mc page hard reaset and still doesn't fix it do u know whats causing this ??
If it's a brand new console that is still has warranty I'd ask for a replacement. If that console doesn't have warranty then I'd replace thermal paste and thermal putty. I have a video on how to do that.
@@ElectronicsComputers yeah it's from another country I can't return it so its not power supply issue or ssd hmmm I never thought thermal could get ruined in transit and its not displaying the overheat message as well Thanks for your help ❤
Mine works for 10 mins without load then just crashes. Restart is possible immediately. What do you think?
First I would check the SMART of SSD. It will show if the drive is corrupted or overheating. Also make sure that the console has proper cooling.
Fantastic video, as a newbie, this is super informative and diagrams etc helped massively; completing my first ever repair, at 3:02 I'm not getting any readings at all on this part. going to replace- -- GBU608A.. Initial issue was on power up, light shows for 2-3 seconds then turns off, have you have ever seen this?
By "light" you mean the LED on the power button or the bulb in series with the power supply? If it's the LED, I really doubt you have a problem with the diode bridge. I've repaired a bunch of those power supplies and the problem usually lies in a fuse, varistor, MOSFET, the diode on the heatsink or the diode bridge. If you don't get any readings at all on the diode bridge that's weird. Make sure your multimiter in the diode mode and check four diodes that are in that bridge rectifier. If the fuse wasn't blown you can connect the power supply to the AC and then you can measure DC voltage between the first and forth pin on the diode bridge. It should be something about 170 volts if you're in US/Canada and over 300 volts if you're in Europe. If you have that voltage, then diode bridge is fine.
@@ElectronicsComputers Thank you very much Sir!, It was the LED light on power button which would flash for a few seconds then straight off.
Was my dodgy testing with the diode bridge. Seems fine actually.
After looking further, we think it could be the Ceramic Safety Capacitor, (AH101K) - hard to find in uk. One seems dead, (there are 2 blue ones on the corner, close to your left thumb @ 2:46).
Appreciate the support, i'm too noob for this but glad I gave it ago :)
@@coderc2528If those capacitors are shorted, then simply remove them. Those caps will cost you about 2-4 euros with free delivery to UK. The power supply will work without those caps without any problem. I really doubt that those caps can die or be shorted.