Thank you team for another great show. The segment on using manual mode was both interesting and helpful, real food for thought. Marcus has opened my mind as to what is possible with shooting in manual mode after only ever shooting aperature priority. Also enjoyed Nick's adventure and his thought process for getting his shot. This really is a top end photography training channel. Stuck on the other side of the world with covid lockdown rules a workshop on the Isle of Sky with these guys is a dream.
While using manual mode is surely helpful to learn the controls and what they do, I find your arguments come a little too short, since ISO needs also to be controlled. For my taste, it is far better to concentrate on the histrogram and the actual exposure. After some decades of experience--long enough with manual-only cameras--I often use all on auto, but of course have an eye on what the camera chooses, so I can always intercept. Mostly I only need a little tweaking on my exposure compensation and the aperture or speed. This is not always faster than using manual mode, but with the auto settings, I am prepared for the unexpected 🤩 However, I like you show, please go on like that!
Most current premium ff cameras can shoot clean to iso3200 and beyond, especially once you learn how to denoise properly. Consider this, what if your camera shot totally clean with good dr up to iso200k ? Then you wouldnt worry about iso, would you. What you do need to control is shutter speed and apeture to control the look you want. I switched to semi-manual 6years ago and have never shot apeture priority since, not even once. 99% of the time I shoot manual shutter and manual apeture control, with automatic iso, and sometimes adjust the ev offset. 1% of the time, eg astrophotography, is fully manual
Aperture Priority is/was a standard way for cinematographers and DOPs to manage the 'look' of a film in camera - along with colour temperature control with filters and lighting. We used to use 'film' and it had a set ASA / ISO. So the old cinematographer's dictum was employed so you didn't even need a light meter (but you used one anyway). "At f16 on a sunny day, the shutter speed equals the ASA." After you used that rubric for a few shoots you could do the whole lighting and aperture thing in your head - look at the light off objects and shadows around them and make almost faultless filming decisions. It very quickly becomes an instinct for life. I shot most of my stuff at f8 using colour Negative Eastman and some Ilford stock. The shutter speed was fixed. The ASA was fixed. Lighting was then bent to the will of the Aperture. I'm talking several hundred commercials, tens of docos, and an award winning feature. You can get shipwrecked without a meter and make perfectly exposed pictures every time. All you need is the rubric - "At f16 on a sunny day, the shutter speed equals the ASA."
Totally agree, which is why we made the point that using AP on a stills camera will not help develop the necessary skills because there is a reliance on the camera to do all the work. With cinematography where you have changing light it is obviously a different situation to using a stills camera. Being able to guesstimate the exposure using only the eye is a great tool for any photographer but one which is rare these days due to the reliance on technology. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment. All the best.
Manual mode is good when you have the time. AV (aperture priority) is good if you need to get the shot quick. Even TV if you are in need of getting a shot of something in motion. That is why we have different modes. Knowing which mode to use in a situation is how you really master your camera.
Hi Tony. You are correct that AP might be quicker for someone fluent in using Manual mode, but if you are used to using it, then it should be faster than using AP with Exp Comp/Exp Lock and all the other issues which AP brings. Mastering your camera is most certainly one of the most important factors in photography.
Guys, this is a fantastic show. At nearly 60 yrs of age going on 21 I still feel the need to get out there and find that magical shot/image. Keep doing what you do best, it works. Ed
Almost midnight in the west of Australia, but a joy to join others catching the first showing of the program. Many thanks again for what you kindly offer!
G’day Adrian. I’m in the same location as yourself. I’m on the iPad every night watching and learning. I’ll be back at the Gem camera Club in October. Stay safe Mate.
Thanks for the manual mode lesson. I actually watched this episode a couple of months ago and switched to M mode shortly thereafter. I now find I am shooting almost everything in manual mode with confidence. Thanks.
It's always good to see alternate ways of doing things. I always start out with my Canon camera in 'P' mode, so I never miss any sudden opportunities - I can quickly alter the camera-chosen settings with just a flick of the wheel by the shutter, if there is time for another shot ;). Then, once I know what I want to do, I look to see if the ambiant light is constant, or fluctuating. If it's constant, manual is the easiest; if it's changing then I often choose Aperture/Shutter priority (dependent on the effect I want - depth of field or movement in my subject) ... There is no perfect way that will always work, so find out what works for you, and always be sure you have an actual reason for doing it the way you do; that way you can compare other people's ways with yours and see if there's a way to imporove on your process.
Generally agree regarding Aperture priority vs manual for a DSLR , but with mirrorless you don't need to chimp or watch the back lcd just use your evf and get the tone you want very quickly using the exp.comp wheel. But getting to grips with aperture/speed and iso relationships is a must and this is a good way to learn.
I love the Manual Mode discussion and have to agree with you completely (I do shoot mainly landscapes). I have been using Manual mode on my camera for the past 20 years, only my first year I used auto and semi-auto settings. I would say that when I switched to full manual, it took about 3 months before it became natural to me. But now, with the right camera (Pentax K-3 II), switching the Aperature / ISO / Shutter Speed has become like an extension of my hand. It is so natural to do and so fast and I find I often do not even think about it anymore, I just adjust the appropriate settings based on my scene and what I am after, and take the shot. Of course a Histogram helps tremendously as well but since I use a DSLR with viewfinder, I have to check after the shot. I found eventually, that I can read the light very well in a scene and pretty much imagine what the histogram would look like. After taking the shot, it ends up looking exactly how I imagined.
just found this channel couple of months ago I am all caught up. As a returning film shooter from 40 + years ago I love their info on digital cameras. Found my way off AUTO to AP and some manual. I find my results seem to be better with AP . I notice that they shoot mostly manual. so im hoping to learn some new things to make my photos better. My gut feeling is that letting the camera compensate for my 72 year old eyes may not be a bad thing Cant wait to see the article.
Try bracketing in aperture mode, it gives more images to look at but might just save that image you thought you missed. I’m 72 and my experience is similar to your own. Lighting and composition is the same as yesteryear and we just have to learn to use the new gear. It keeps the brain active to stave off the dreaded dementia. Keep safe & well and happy snapping.
You’re not the only one Jay. I have been watching other great photographers, but decided to financially support this informatively excellent program. Good luck with your rediscovery of your passion.
From 2:45 to 3:05, the photographer has determined he wants to stop down three stops, for better depth of field. Starting at f/4, he intuitively understands this will bring him to f/11, as the progression 4, 5.6, 8, 11 is a progression he knows like the back of his hand. For most photographers coming up from the film era, this will be true, however many photographers just starting out in digital will find this number sequence obscure, and indeed when they consult the image data from any of their pictures they are likely to find aperture values that do not adhere to this well-known series; f/7.1, f/10.3 etc etc. In order for beginning photographers to evolve to where they can use Manual mode as effortlessly as the professional demonstrating here, they must AT THE VERY LEAST memorize this progression: 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16,22, 32. By memorizing this, you will know what f/stop increase will correspond to a shutter speed doubling or halving. Even better than memorizing though would be to study this number sequence to UNDERSTAND it. You can see that the number doubles every two stops, but why every TWO? Why not every one? Wouldn't twice the aperture correspond to half the shutter speed? In truth, twice the aperture DOES equal half the shutter speed, but only if you are considering the AREA of the aperture. F-stop numbers are a ratio of the focal length of the lens to the DIAMETER of the aperture - not the area. To correct, the amount of change needed to the diameter in order to doulbe or halve the area of the iris, is the root of two (about 1.4) - which of course means you do it twice to get a multiplacation or division by 2. This is the arithmetic explanation - now just sticking to this known sequence; 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8.11,16,22,32 will allow you to navigate with ease between doubling and halving shutter speeds, and to make these adjustments confidently. When the camera is in automatic, or in one of the semi-automatic modes, it does not feel constrained by these standard values, which is why you will see f/7.1 or 10.3, just as you may se shutter speeds of 1/363rd of a second, or 1/829th, instead of standard 1/250, 1/500th, 1/1000th. Learning, memorizing and sticking to the standard values for both aperture and shutter speed will allow you to operate effortlessly in Manual mode, and to get the greatest control over your art.
Hi Ruth and team another great show keep them coming. Can I just ask on the subject of SD cards, with so many on market, different speeds . different storage amounts which ones are the best for landscapes and would this be covered in any future shows, very best wishes.
Hi Mark. Thanks for the suggestion. The idea has been on our list now for some time. We are just waiting to find a card company who wants to sponsor the feature. Watch this space.
Great info Marcus on the use of manual vs. AP. I have never been truly happy with AP and just as you said have sometimes forgotten I pushed the compensation and messed up some other shots. As always you guys rock.
I appreciate the points made in this video. The major case in landscape photography where I see aperture priority being better than manual is in situations with rapidly changing light. Quite often I have been in conditions where there are lots of dynamic clouds, and the sun is only coming out for fleeting moments, and you only have a few seconds or even less to get the dramatic shot. The difference in brightness between when the sun is shining and and when it is hidden may be large, so that setting up your histogram while it is hidden will not be adequate, and you will not have enough time to manually adjust. In those cases, I have found that aperture priority with evaluative metering usually works well.
Hi Stephen. Thanks for your comment. You will find that if you miss shots when using manual mode it is probably just because you are not fluent enough with it. It should be normal to be able to change to a new exposure (as per the example you gave) in less than 1 or 2 seconds, so there’s no reason why you should miss shots. I would say Aperture Priority takes longer as you need to check the exposure and then compensate. If you’re fluent in manual then you should get it perfect first time. Thanks for watching.
@@PhotographyOnline Whether you are in auto or manual mode, the camera is making the prediction as to which settings will give you a 'correct' exposure. The key to success is knowing when the camera's metering system is not making the right decisions, and needs adjusting. As long as you know how this is done, I don't think it matters which mode you use. Manual mode gives you more choices, because you are free to choose any settings you like, whereas exposure compensation has a limited range.
By far the very best photography show on UA-cam. I learn something new every time. Very informative, entertaining and set in the beautiful Isle of sky. Cant wait for next episode.
Thanks for sharing.... great video & comments...as a hobbyist I am still learning at 78 yrs old....we are in lockdown in Melbourne Australia so I loved watching your video... cheers 😀
You say towards the end of the AV article that by switching to M you take the cameras Meter out of the equation, if that's the case what are you metering with? Speaking purely in Landscapes with digital I'd guestimate even M shooters are still using the camera Meter whether that is to set the exposure or use the Histogram. If you use the histogram then in M you might need to change the SS, likewise in Av you use exposure comp to get the right Histogram. It could also be said that watching the Light as a priority, if you've set your Histo with Ecposure comp you don't need to check as often in Av and can just watch the light and hit the button, in M you have to watch the Histo rather than the light! All that said it's not Film, no need to be so accurate. Modern sensors and software have more than enough latitude to get it right in the processing, which you're going to use anyway so don't split hairs.
Hi Andrew. The histogram has nothing to do with the camera’s meter. The histogram is a graph showing the tones which make up the image. This is what you should use for exposure as it doesn’t rely on any assumptions from the camera. The histogram shows where the limitations (dynamic range) are of the camera to record highlight and shadow detail (white and black points) and has no connection to the camera’s meter. Also, to say that you don’t need to be so accurate is really. It the best attitude. That’s like telling a singer they don’t need to hit the right notes because their pitch can be corrected with auto tune. There’s many situations where the dynamic range of the scene will be greater than that of the camera. If you are not able to be accurate with exposure then you are likely to lose such shots as a result of exposure error. Hope this makes sense. All the best.
@@PhotographyOnline The Histogram and Light meter are using the same information but displaying it in different forms. If you use M as you did on the B&W checker and metered on the white or black as you did with AV you would get the same results, it depends on you metering on the wider scene first to get your setting, it depends on your workflow and how you want to present your point. You'd obviously use the Exposure Comp in AV to avoid clipping or as available in most modern cameras, use the Live highlight Alarm Both M and AV or SS have their advantages and pitfalls, saying one is better than another limits the kit of tools we have at our disposal.
Well presented tutorial on aperture mode. An intermediate step to avoid missing the moment in aperture mode could be to introduce bracketing. It does create more images to look at in post but it’s easy to rank keepers in software. So a first pass elimination of under or over exposed images leaves you with higher keeper rate. It covers those moments where the sun pokes out of the clouds or the white rabbit emerges briefly from its hole. Once you see how images change because of the limitations of the camera you can move forward to manual mode, or not.
Thanks Geoffrey for your comment. The problem is that you are just introducing a safety net to compensate for the pitfalls of a system rather than using a more accurate method and becoming a better photographer. Ultimately it is up to each individual to do whichever method they prefer, but by bracketing everything just introduces more work at the post processing stage. Thanks for watching. All the best.
This is such a GREAT show and as a student there are so much to be observed and learned all in a a very Pleasant and Professional Environment. With so much Gratitude and Appreciation for the work you all do. Great Job! THANK YOU SO MUCH🙏
OK, I owe Marcus a big "Thank you!" I was a committed Aperture Priority user until I tried his thought process for using Manual mode from this show. I have to say, I'm getting a lot closer to the colors and the exposure I want right out of the camera, now! I'm feeling more confident and more ready to give medium format a go, too! Thanks, Marcus! And thank you to the entire team--another great show, as always!
This is the best free magazine program for photographers. I find it perfect for helping my photography and giving me ideas for experimentation which I really enjoy.
Thanks again for such a friendly, inclusive approach to photography. You take the audience and the audience's needs seriously. This youtube subscription has helped me stray beyond the automatic setting of (to me) an expensive camera to get much more from it, and my own landscape endeavours. Seeing folk hike for miles and hours, sometimes to come back later for want of ideal conditions, is realistic about the pursuit - you don't pretend that aspect is easy! You've got the Skye Mountains and seas and you're not afraid to use them! Thank you!
Hi Michael. It sounds like you’re not very fluent in the use of Manual controls. As we mentioned in the feature, it is something which will become instinctive if you practice did do it often enough. AP is faster when you are starting out, but Manual mode should be quicker and simpler once you get used to it. Ultimately though it is up to each person to do what they are most comfortable with. All we were doing here is to highlight why AP can hold some people back. It really depends how much control you want. Thanks for watching.
Agree with your point on aperture priority mode, although it can be useful if lighting conditions are changing and your in a rush. Thxs for another well put together show....
Awesome! Thanks for reassuring me that having shot in manual from the beginning of my DSLR journey was the correct approach. Another great and inspiring show.
There’s no really ‘correct approach’ Jon. Some people may prefer one way, and others something else. Getting the shot right in camera is the key! Peace
AV, TV, Manual, they are all just modes. Neither of them is faster or has an advantage over the other. The photographer still has to pay attention to the settings and adjust according to each situation. In manual mode you would adjust whichever setting you want, in AV you would adjust by exposure compensation. They all still require a thinking mind behind the camera, and adjustments to get what you want. The photographer is still in full control, if he or she is worth their salt. Even if you shoot in auto you need to have a good grasp of the exposure triangle and keep an eye on what the camera is choosing in any given situation, and.......adjust accordingly.And as an aside, as a wildlife photographer I tend to often shoot wide open in certain situations, not to control depth of field, but to gather as much light as I can in low light situations. In that instance, the aperture is most definitely about exposure.All that said, I am a big proponent of beginners learning and using manual mode as much as possible; it will teach you all the things you need to know to enable you to use any mode you choose and still get great results. Which is what that particular segment was about. Kudos.
Enjoyed your video. Love Loch Eishort. Well explained reasons to shoot in manual Exposure mode. A tip for the windy cliff top shoot - wind levels are often much less, closer to ground level, so using the tripod with legs stretched out and camera near the ground should reduce vibration allowing those stunning 6 & 10 stop ND photos to be sharper on the rocks. Could also use a large rock to add further stability too.
Marcus, excellent job. You really discussed the Aperture priority mode with totally unexpected concept. It's just like you mentioned for long lenses compression phenomenon. Amazing knowledge my friend, congratulations.
Another great show everyone. Great tips by everyone as usual. I shoot both in Aperture Priority and Manual mode, but i find it easier to use Manual mode and adjust the exposure as Marcus said. Looking forward to seeing your next show.
Interesting video. I agree about Manual mode, I shoot aperture priority to control the the depth of field. Of course in manual mode you are in total control. However there is a problem, I shoot a Nikon D7200 which I love. The camera has no live histogram. So Manual then seems very clumsy. Any advice to get around this would be appreciated. As it is aperture priority seems easier.
Hi Sean. You don’t need a live histogram to use Manual mode. I would say that a live histogram is actually a pain in the backside. Just use the exp meter to get you in the right area, then take a test shot and review the histogram to see if you need to make any adjustments - which you can now do with any of the exp triangle settings. Good luck
Is it possible to briefly at the beginning of each video clip to show on screen maybe on the side or bottom what camera is being used to record the video and settings, maybe a quick look back towards the videographer every now and then and sound mic being used. Thanks as always for such a great program full of useful information.
Hi David. Thanks for your suggestion. We always use a Canon R6 with a 35mm f/1.4 lens to record 90% of the show. We usually use this around f/2 but it varies. Hope this helps
There is that 'better' word again. What is 'better' for you, might not be for someone else.. Everything has pros and cons. While I agree that Manual mode is preferable in some situations, and it's a useful thing for people to learn, most of the time I still prefer Aperture priority mode. If you learn all the modes, then you can use them how you want, when you want. To each their own, I also prefer a car with an automatic transmission... 🤷🏼♂️ 🙂
Dynamic range on most modern cameras is more than sufficient to adjust exposure where necessary in post processing in a matter of seconds. The marked improvement in sensor technology also makes many blown out highlights and unrecoverable blacks largely a thing of the past. Therefore to be honest, I think manual mode is a solution to a problem that no longer exists and over the past twelve years, each of my cameras can meter far quicker and usually more accurately than me. If that makes me stupid then so be it, but I can still obtain pretty good results far more often than not.
Hi Michael. You are correct that modern sensors have a much wider latitude, which provides a certain amount of error margin for exposures in many scenes. However, there are still many scenes with a dynamic range will will exceed that of the sensor, so if you take the approach of "don't worry about it - it'll be alright in post" then you will come up against problems every now and again. Also, the approach of not trying to perfect things at the capture stage is a dangerous one to follow as it will lead to laziness and a lack of good camera skills. We see this being a major problem for many photographers who come to us to help them improve. Obviously it is up to you to adopt whichever attitude best suits, but the one you describe is certainly not one we would encourage to photographers wanting to further their skills. We hope you enjoyed the show and thanks for taking the time to comment. All the best.
@@PhotographyOnline What a very polite and civil reply! That is something of a rarity in itself, but much appreciated. Yes, I fully appreciate that the advice given by your presenter was technically sound. Perhaps also I genuinely enjoy post processing more than most, so don't begrudge the minutes spent in Lightroom and/or Capture One on my images. My first interchangeable lens camera was a Panasonic Lumix G1, which had a mediocre dynamic range and I was constantly blowing out my highlights. But in truth, if I'd exposed for the highlights with that camera I'd have ended up with some atrocious noise when attempting to lift the shadows. Thankfully the technology has moved on a bit since then and it is clear to me that original, untouched scenes contain a much wider range of lights and darks, before anything is done to either. But anyway, no offence meant and thank you for your valuable presentations, which invariably contain lessons I can learn. The biggest danger I think is simply repeating what we have always done, so that we never get any better with our photography.
Despite the fact that in certain aspects of photography I disagree with some of the instructors, these guys are great, they’ve created a fantastic product and I would like to meet them in person one day. Congratulations 👏
Hi John. The tripod used in this video is actually custom made, but it is basically a slightly larger version of a Kingjoy A86 which are sold through our online shop. The head is a Manfrotto 322RC2. We did a feature about tripod a few shows back so check this out as we give lots of info about both items. Thanks
Thank you Marcus for your enlightening article on Aperture Priority. For some years now I have operated my camera in AV mode to achieve the good depth of field and sharp images from the lense then altering the exposure to suit varying conditions seemed the norm. Changing to Manual makes so much sense. Thank you for thse insights.
Hi Adam. The tripod is a Kingjoy A86. We sell them through our shop if that helps. You’ll find a link to this in the video description. Thanks for watching. All the best.
Catching up on your shows which I really enjoy. I have made the move from AP to all Manual shooting but whilst I agree you should know how to use manual and it's essential for some shots (eg long exposures) I'd have to say Aperture Priority and Exposure Compensation is fine for most shots imho. If photographers like Mads Peter Iverson and Nigel Danson use Aperture Priority regularly then I can't see much wrong with it. Like I said, I have moved to all Manual shooting but that's mostly because I do a lot of long exposure shoots and can't be bothered to keep swapping between modes!
Using any semi-auto mode is more work than using manual mode. If you don’t want to be in full control over your photography then keep using AP or SP, but if you want to refine your results then manual is the way to go.
Shoot in aperture priority all the time. No issues at all. I use a mirrorless camera though rather than the old hat DSLRs. So I can set the camera up to show me what I am actually exposing for in real time in the EVF.
Sadly that doesn’t solve anything. Whether you have a Mirrorless or DSLR is irrelevant. The limitations of Aperture Priority remain the same. You are still not in full control of the exposure.
Yeah, so you’re now having to control the Aperture, then adjust the exposure with Exp compensation, then also apply AE lock when you want to recompose! Talk about making what would be a very simple process in manual mode complicated! Ultimately it is up to you to choose whatever you are happy with, but we see lots of people making mistakes because they are putting too much faith in their camera. All we are doing here is showing why using AV can limit you when it comes to controlling exposure. If you dismiss it, then that’s fine, but many people will no doubt benefit. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Hi. Not sure why you are reading the tone as being aggressive? Also, where is the inappropriate language? There’s nothing to our knowledge which wouldn’t be suitable for younger viewers.
Best photography show on youtube. Hard pressed to click away. Engaging all episode. That Marcus McAdam bloke sure knows his stuff and is a natural tutor.. Thanks for the lens cloth... it actually came in handy one photowalk i did... LOL
Hi Keith. That’s because you have “Auto ISO” enabled, which means that you’re still not in control of the exposure! It’s not possible to have Exp Comp if you are in full manual mode as there’s nothing to compensate for. If the user has full control of Exp Time, ISO and Aperture, then the camera has nothing left to compensate with. Try turning off Auto ISO and you should see that Exp comp disappears. If not, let me know as I’ll be curious to know what your camera is doing. Thanks the comment (Marcus)
In that case, what is your camera using to compensate? If you have control over aperture, Exp time and ISO, how can it be compensating? What value is it changing?
@@PhotographyOnline I read the Nikon d750 hand book as watched a tutorial from Nikon and agree that there is no need to compensate for exposure. Yesterday evening in the shade I did some test starting, as I remember, on full manual. That is 1/60th of a sec at f8 with iso at 400. The iso auto was off. I dialed in +2.7 on the exposure and all but blew out the image. I returned the exposure composition back to center and got a well exposed image. From what I read and think I understand there should not be any difference at all since every element in the exposure is set to manual. Thanks so
@@PhotographyOnline I want to thank you for staying with me on this. I did finally figure it out. I have an app that tells me when there is the possibility of a great sunset so I head to the lake for beautiful sunset photos bracket for HDR. If I remember to turn brackets off then exposure returns to as advertised. Thank you so much! Learning is great!
Hello from southern Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada. Another great show. I started following your channel about a month ago. Best photography show on UA-cam. Love the tech tips. How’s about a follow up on Manual mode and proper use of ISO.
Fun and informative show. Have you considered getting an mountain bike or even a dirt bike sturdy enough to haul gear to reach some of these remote locations? I'm thinking they could be time and or back savers.
Hi Brian. Thanks for the suggestion but the remote areas we feature wouldn’t be accessible by bike as the ground is often too rough. All we would do is end up carrying the bike as well! Thanks for watching
@@PhotographyOnline Fair point. Now I understand why mountain climbers hire Sherpers. After seeing your collective work and the work of a few others, I must make it to GB with cameras, Sherpers and without about 20 pounds. Thank you!
Seems to be a lot of negative comments about the aperture priority piece. I too have been using this mode predominantly for wildlife for over fifteen years but always manual for landscapes. I like the speed of av and exposure comp with unpredictable wildlife but that said I totally agree with the points made by Marcus about av mode.
Hi Steve. As soon as you provide an opinion, there will always be people who take issue with it. However, if we never gave our opinion then we wouldn’t be achieving what we aim to achieve - to help the majority of photographers improve their skills and inspire people to get out more. I agree with your philosophy of using Aperture Priority for wildlife and Manual for landscapes, even though I would personally still shoot wildlife in manual too. The main message of the feature was to show how AP is not a good shooting mode for landscapes, so good to know you agree with this. Thanks as always for watching.
@@PhotographyOnline If you're trying to teach people you shouldn't go around telling them they're wrong and shortchanging themselves if they use Av. That's nonsense. Av, Shutter priority , and Manual are all valid techniques to suit individual shooting styles. Now if you want to tell someone when they're starting out that they should learn manual mode so they understand the exposure triangle that's fine. We all probably started out learning manual.
@@PhotographyOnline The very title of the video says "why you don't want to shoot in aperture priority". Anybody that can understand English would interpret that as you think they're wrong to shoot in Av. A direct quote " if you want to truly master exposure, you can't use Av". Those are your words that sound pretty synonymous with you think they're wrong. Now regarding the shortchanging, another direct quote " Don't continue to use Av, as you will then be preventing yourself from progressing". Sounds pretty much like they would be shortchanging themselves.
Hi Ted. That’s terrible advice. You have full control over depth of field (which I assume is what you mean by background blur) in Manual mode. AP is not good for birds in flight because the camera is controlling the Exp time - the most important element for a fast moving subject. Please don’t pass on bad information here. We are trying to help viewers improve their photography, not confuse them. Thanks
Re your aperture priority piece, what’s your workflow when shooting a landscape with rapidly changing light, such as sunrise, sunset or passing clouds? If you shoot in manual, won’t you need to be continually adjusting your settings to compensate?
Hi David. You ask a god question but the answer is easy. The brightest part of a landscape is usually sunlit clouds. These stay the same regardless of whether the sun is penetrating to the ground or not, so if working in Manual mode you simply position these clouds to be at the higher end of the camera’s dynamic range. Every exposure will now be perfect, so it’s simply a case of waiting for the light to do whatever you want it to do. If you were shooting in AP mode, then the camera would be changing the exposure all the time, which is the last thing you want. Hope that makes sense?
Yes, though likely less than one stop at a time and only your shutter speed (as long as it’s within values appropriate for the scene) On the contrary you don’t want the camera to compensate as when the strong light comes out, it will underexpose An alternative approach would be to use exposure compensation but then the result would depend on how your camera meters exactly as well as the other pitfalls mentioned in the video
Great show as always, thanks. I moved to manual mode sometime ago and made plenty of mistakes to begin with but now it’s more instinctive . And less to think about to think about when trying to capture fleeting moments and changing light, which is definitely good for me. Still use aperture or shutter priority modes sometimes when taking wildlife shots especially when things are moving fast.
Sounds like you’re doing everything correctly Steven. The more experience you gain, the more competent you’ll become with your gear. This leads to more confidence, which cannot be underestimated when it comes to photography.
I agree with the use of Manual for landscapes and controlled situations. I was following along until 11:25 when Markus says to ignore the camera's meter and take control. Are you using the "Sunny 16" guide or a hand held meter? Light meters are not very prevalent in most photographer's kits, and I'll bet there are a lot of viewers Googling "Sunny 16" right about now. Personally I use spot metering and for Nikon that is the active focus point. Then I'll look at the review image and the histogram and work from there.
Hi Jim. No special rules or handheld meters are necessary. All you need is the camera’s histogram, as this is not the camera metering, it is a graph of the tones which make up the image. So no mid tone is needed which eliminates the potential for the camera to get it all wrong. If you use spot meter on your camera then your camera is looking for a mid tone. If you don’t want your subject to be a mid tone, then this is pretty useless. Does that make sense?
@@PhotographyOnline I get that and agree. It also helps in choosing the correct graduated ND for those of us using them... However, a meter reading or sunny 16 guesstament gets close to start with. It is also important to mind the settings to get the type of image seen in the mind's eye.
Hi Lozzza. Oct is a great month on Skye. The landscape looks very golden and the light is often very dramatic. Midges should be gone by then. They are already disappearing fast
Once again fantastic advice , beautiful images too , I have the book and it's brilliant jam packed with advice , tips and images always great to back to again and again . Thanks look I foward to the next one 👌👍
Another great and informative show, enjoyed the sections on Aperture priority v manual and the '2 of us', but I also have to commend the section on the photo's that Harry did to discuss these, good to see pics that needed some work done on them and some tips on post image editing. Thanks again team, look forward to the next episode.
Great show. I am also a catch-up viewer. Thank you for keeping content together. I was getting a little frustrated with some previous shows where the presentation was a little fragmented. Especially if you want to review an episode again it is much better this way. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!! Who do we ask to have a look at a photo editor like Affinity Photo, just might be a little softer on the budget in the long run. Could the main players not also put a photographers camera on the market. I do understand the requirement for WiFi, Bluetooth, 8K video, GPS and all that for many photographers. However when you are likely to be mugged if you do street photography in the middle of a crowded are with every body just watching, then you don't even want to take a camera that costs more than a small car out of the safe. Give us a camera with the fastest eye tracking auto-focus a fast frame rate, silent shutter and enough pixels so you can crop if you can not get close enough. Good dynamic range, low noise and ergonomically packaged. An adjustable timer to keep the shutter open for up to at least 60 seconds. Also a decent battery life and a high end view finder. Take out all the other stuff that makes the camera unaffordable as it is not just the price, it is also the insurance just take it out of the safe. Please don't misinterpret this a a request to stop making the fancy cameras. This is a plead for a top end photographers camera at an affordable price. Hope you can whisper in the ear of some influential people at the show, while we drool about all the new stuff as spring weather allows us a couple of more daylight hours down south. Once again my compliments on the content, the presentation and how it was all kept together!! Stay safe!!!!!!!
Hi team great show as always the segment about about AV mode was really interesting as a photographer of some 46 years i started shooting manual when i got my first camera a Zenith E and then on my next 3 cameras which where also manual when automated cameras came out i admit i got lazy and shot on the auto modes as they were a novelty but after about a year switched back to manual and have been using it for 30 + years
Thanks for another superb show - the best on UA-cam! I'm confused by one thing though, in your feature on Manual vs AP. You mention (in some of your answers to comments especially) using the histogram to tell if your shot is exposed correctly, but my camera only shows the histogram after I've taken the shot, but not before. Do you mean that you take a 'test' shot in manual and then adjust if the histogram shows the exposure was out? I know that mirrorless cameras display the histogram before shooting, but I can't seem to get that on my DSLR (Nikon D5600). Or do you use the camera's light meter to check exposure in an image before shooting, and use your knowledge of the subject to decide whether to under or over expose? Lastly, I never use live view, but always look through the viewfinder, mainly because the autofocus on my camera seems to 'hunt' a lot in live view. Is it still possible to use manual correctly without using live view? I've always used AP and would be interested in trying manual, but finding it all a bit mind-boggling at the moment!
Hi Rachel. Thanks for your questions. You should be able to get a histogram if you use live view. Hidden deep in your camera menu somewhere will be an option to choose what you see on the live view screen. All you need to do is tick the histogram box. Once live view is activated, it’s usually (but not always!) the down button on Nikon cameras which then rotated through whichever options you have enabled. This will then give you the histogram before you take a shot, but the method you described is also fine if you can’t get it to work as described above. You can use the camera’s meter but you need to remember that this is always based on your subject averaging out to be a mid tone, so it’s far from ideal. Using manual mode in Live View should be super easy but I know a lot of Nikon cameras don’t have exposure simulation to allow the live view to get brighter and darker as you change the settings. This is a real hindrance in my opinion. All canon cameras do this as a default and it makes everything so much easier. This may be why you are having trouble working in manual mode when using live view. I hope this helps. All the best.
I missed the premiere, but in my defence I was out with my camera. As suggested AV is useful for walklaround street photography. I can quickly change from f/7.1 which I used for most street photography and 5.6 which I used for close ups of single objects in the street. When I go out for landscapes though, Manual is a must. As it is in most situations. But on the street I need to be able to quickly point, focus, and shoot so knowing I am on F7.1 already is really handy. Of course I know my camera and when AV won't cut it too.
Another great episode, as always! During the 'Just the Two of Us' feature, Nick remarks that he can't use too long an exposure due to the wind. Have any of you thought about, or even tried, to use an anchor type system to secure the tripod? Instead of hanging a swinging bag from the tripod, a ground anchor (something like a dog lead anchor that screws into the ground) and a bungie between that and the tripod, to pull the tripod down?
I've tied tripods & cameras down to rocks before now but that's really just to stop the tripod blowing over or completely away. The main photographic issue with wind is vibration in the tripod, hence the need for upping shutter speed. Also watch out for slot-in filters flapping in the wind causing visual distortions as well as acting as a sail to pull the tripod over.
Hi Team: Another great video. I am sorry that I wasn't able to join you in real-time for the launch of this video. I really liked Marcus's segment on shooting in Av mode. Cheers, Keith
As expected, some outstanding content to the show. I frequently watch past shows because of the quality of the content, I enjoy the concept of the shows very much.The Shooting in manual verses aperture section was intriguing for me to contemplate because of my diverse shooting styles given circumstances and situations. The ideal of full manual is open to debate, I think. Circumstances dictating the means, not the means dictating to circumstances or visa versa, for me, has been down to a choice or compromise of creative control value. I’m not suggesting that there is a definitive right or wrong way. Whatever, loving the show !!
@@PhotographyOnline thank ruth and team i must say that was a long hike to get to the photo shoot and it must be annoying for the hair to get so untidy he he love to all trev
Thank you team for another great show. The segment on using manual mode was both interesting and helpful, real food for thought. Marcus has opened my mind as to what is possible with shooting in manual mode after only ever shooting aperature priority. Also enjoyed Nick's adventure and his thought process for getting his shot. This really is a top end photography training channel. Stuck on the other side of the world with covid lockdown rules a workshop on the Isle of Sky with these guys is a dream.
Hi John. Great to hear we are assisting with your photography. Hopefully you’ll be able to travel freely again soon. All the best.
Camera modes are tools and just like other tools they must be used in the right situation…
While using manual mode is surely helpful to learn the controls and what they do, I find your arguments come a little too short, since ISO needs also to be controlled. For my taste, it is far better to concentrate on the histrogram and the actual exposure. After some decades of experience--long enough with manual-only cameras--I often use all on auto, but of course have an eye on what the camera chooses, so I can always intercept. Mostly I only need a little tweaking on my exposure compensation and the aperture or speed. This is not always faster than using manual mode, but with the auto settings, I am prepared for the unexpected 🤩 However, I like you show, please go on like that!
Most current premium ff cameras can shoot clean to iso3200 and beyond, especially once you learn how to denoise properly.
Consider this, what if your camera shot totally clean with good dr up to iso200k ? Then you wouldnt worry about iso, would you.
What you do need to control is shutter speed and apeture to control the look you want.
I switched to semi-manual 6years ago and have never shot apeture priority since, not even once.
99% of the time I shoot manual shutter and manual apeture control, with automatic iso, and sometimes adjust the ev offset.
1% of the time, eg astrophotography, is fully manual
Try using ‘Auto ISO’ mate, it works, don’t be scared. Look it up in your manual. It will work well and it will be alright. Peace
Aperture Priority is/was a standard way for cinematographers and DOPs to manage the 'look' of a film in camera - along with colour temperature control with filters and lighting. We used to use 'film' and it had a set ASA / ISO. So the old cinematographer's dictum was employed so you didn't even need a light meter (but you used one anyway). "At f16 on a sunny day, the shutter speed equals the ASA." After you used that rubric for a few shoots you could do the whole lighting and aperture thing in your head - look at the light off objects and shadows around them and make almost faultless filming decisions. It very quickly becomes an instinct for life. I shot most of my stuff at f8 using colour Negative Eastman and some Ilford stock. The shutter speed was fixed. The ASA was fixed. Lighting was then bent to the will of the Aperture. I'm talking several hundred commercials, tens of docos, and an award winning feature. You can get shipwrecked without a meter and make perfectly exposed pictures every time. All you need is the rubric - "At f16 on a sunny day, the shutter speed equals the ASA."
Totally agree, which is why we made the point that using AP on a stills camera will not help develop the necessary skills because there is a reliance on the camera to do all the work. With cinematography where you have changing light it is obviously a different situation to using a stills camera. Being able to guesstimate the exposure using only the eye is a great tool for any photographer but one which is rare these days due to the reliance on technology. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment. All the best.
photography is fun, always remember the fun.
I think all the modes are useful depending on situation and subject. Learning to use all the modes fully is really what you should be promoting.
All the modes have their advantages and disadvantages John. Here we just showed the disadvantages of one. Thanks for watching
Manual mode is good when you have the time. AV (aperture priority) is good if you need to get the shot quick. Even TV if you are in need of getting a shot of something in motion. That is why we have different modes. Knowing which mode to use in a situation is how you really master your camera.
Hi Tony. You are correct that AP might be quicker for someone fluent in using Manual mode, but if you are used to using it, then it should be faster than using AP with Exp Comp/Exp Lock and all the other issues which AP brings. Mastering your camera is most certainly one of the most important factors in photography.
Have to say that Photography Online has to be the very best photographic chanel
Cheers Tony.
Guys, this is a fantastic show. At nearly 60 yrs of age going on 21 I still feel the need to get out there and find that magical shot/image. Keep doing what you do best, it works. Ed
Cheers Ed. Welcome on board.
One of the best channels on UA-cam, I really wish you guys all the best.
Almost midnight in the west of Australia, but a joy to join others catching the first showing of the program. Many thanks again for what you kindly offer!
Thanks Adrian. Have a good night there.
G’day Adrian. I’m in the same location as yourself. I’m on the iPad every night watching and learning. I’ll be back at the Gem camera Club in October. Stay safe Mate.
Thanks for the manual mode lesson. I actually watched this episode a couple of months ago and switched to M mode shortly thereafter. I now find I am shooting almost everything in manual mode with confidence. Thanks.
Great to hear Neil
It's always good to see alternate ways of doing things. I always start out with my Canon camera in 'P' mode, so I never miss any sudden opportunities - I can quickly alter the camera-chosen settings with just a flick of the wheel by the shutter, if there is time for another shot ;). Then, once I know what I want to do, I look to see if the ambiant light is constant, or fluctuating. If it's constant, manual is the easiest; if it's changing then I often choose Aperture/Shutter priority (dependent on the effect I want - depth of field or movement in my subject) ... There is no perfect way that will always work, so find out what works for you, and always be sure you have an actual reason for doing it the way you do; that way you can compare other people's ways with yours and see if there's a way to imporove on your process.
Generally agree regarding Aperture priority vs manual for a DSLR , but with mirrorless you don't need to chimp or watch the back lcd just use your evf and get the tone you want very quickly using the exp.comp wheel. But getting to grips with aperture/speed and iso relationships is a must and this is a good way to learn.
Thanks for watching Dave
I love the Manual Mode discussion and have to agree with you completely (I do shoot mainly landscapes). I have been using Manual mode on my camera for the past 20 years, only my first year I used auto and semi-auto settings. I would say that when I switched to full manual, it took about 3 months before it became natural to me. But now, with the right camera (Pentax K-3 II), switching the Aperature / ISO / Shutter Speed has become like an extension of my hand. It is so natural to do and so fast and I find I often do not even think about it anymore, I just adjust the appropriate settings based on my scene and what I am after, and take the shot. Of course a Histogram helps tremendously as well but since I use a DSLR with viewfinder, I have to check after the shot. I found eventually, that I can read the light very well in a scene and pretty much imagine what the histogram would look like. After taking the shot, it ends up looking exactly how I imagined.
Good to hear. Sounds like you’re doing everything perfectly. All the best
just found this channel couple of months ago I am all caught up. As a returning film shooter from 40 + years ago I love their info on digital cameras. Found my way off AUTO to AP and some manual. I find my results seem to be better with AP . I notice that they shoot mostly manual. so im hoping to learn some new things to make my photos better. My gut feeling is that letting the camera compensate for my 72 year old eyes may not be a bad thing Cant wait to see the article.
Manual with (limited) auto iso and exposure compensation is your friend.
Hi Eke. There is no Exp comp in Manual, as there's no camera meter to compensate for.
Try bracketing in aperture mode, it gives more images to look at but might just save that image you thought you missed. I’m 72 and my experience is similar to your own. Lighting and composition is the same as yesteryear and we just have to learn to use the new gear. It keeps the brain active to stave off the dreaded dementia. Keep safe & well and happy snapping.
You’re not the only one Jay. I have been watching other great photographers, but decided to financially support this informatively excellent program. Good luck with your rediscovery of your passion.
@@PhotographyOnline read my comment. It says auto iso. Try it, it will work just fine.
From 2:45 to 3:05, the photographer has determined he wants to stop down three stops, for better depth of field. Starting at f/4, he intuitively understands this will bring him to f/11, as the progression 4, 5.6, 8, 11 is a progression he knows like the back of his hand. For most photographers coming up from the film era, this will be true, however many photographers just starting out in digital will find this number sequence obscure, and indeed when they consult the image data from any of their pictures they are likely to find aperture values that do not adhere to this well-known series; f/7.1, f/10.3 etc etc. In order for beginning photographers to evolve to where they can use Manual mode as effortlessly as the professional demonstrating here, they must AT THE VERY LEAST memorize this progression: 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16,22, 32. By memorizing this, you will know what f/stop increase will correspond to a shutter speed doubling or halving. Even better than memorizing though would be to study this number sequence to UNDERSTAND it. You can see that the number doubles every two stops, but why every TWO? Why not every one? Wouldn't twice the aperture correspond to half the shutter speed? In truth, twice the aperture DOES equal half the shutter speed, but only if you are considering the AREA of the aperture. F-stop numbers are a ratio of the focal length of the lens to the DIAMETER of the aperture - not the area. To correct, the amount of change needed to the diameter in order to doulbe or halve the area of the iris, is the root of two (about 1.4) - which of course means you do it twice to get a multiplacation or division by 2. This is the arithmetic explanation - now just sticking to this known sequence; 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8.11,16,22,32 will allow you to navigate with ease between doubling and halving shutter speeds, and to make these adjustments confidently.
When the camera is in automatic, or in one of the semi-automatic modes, it does not feel constrained by these standard values, which is why you will see f/7.1 or 10.3, just as you may se shutter speeds of 1/363rd of a second, or 1/829th, instead of standard 1/250, 1/500th, 1/1000th. Learning, memorizing and sticking to the standard values for both aperture and shutter speed will allow you to operate effortlessly in Manual mode, and to get the greatest control over your art.
Hi Ruth and team another great show keep them coming. Can I just ask on the subject of SD cards, with so many on market, different speeds
. different storage amounts which ones are the best for landscapes and would this be covered in any future shows, very best wishes.
Hi Mark. Thanks for the suggestion. The idea has been on our list now for some time. We are just waiting to find a card company who wants to sponsor the feature. Watch this space.
Great info Marcus on the use of manual vs. AP. I have never been truly happy with AP and just as you said have sometimes forgotten I pushed the compensation and messed up some other shots. As always you guys rock.
Glad it was helpful!
Aperture mode is good in a controlled studio imho. I use manual, since all my photography is travel or birds. Love this channel.
Thanks Julian
Thanks for the photo review, I struggled to decide which version I preferred.
Hope we helped Ian.
I appreciate the points made in this video. The major case in landscape photography where I see aperture priority being better than manual is in situations with rapidly changing light. Quite often I have been in conditions where there are lots of dynamic clouds, and the sun is only coming out for fleeting moments, and you only have a few seconds or even less to get the dramatic shot. The difference in brightness between when the sun is shining and and when it is hidden may be large, so that setting up your histogram while it is hidden will not be adequate, and you will not have enough time to manually adjust. In those cases, I have found that aperture priority with evaluative metering usually works well.
Hi Stephen. Thanks for your comment. You will find that if you miss shots when using manual mode it is probably just because you are not fluent enough with it. It should be normal to be able to change to a new exposure (as per the example you gave) in less than 1 or 2 seconds, so there’s no reason why you should miss shots. I would say Aperture Priority takes longer as you need to check the exposure and then compensate. If you’re fluent in manual then you should get it perfect first time. Thanks for watching.
@@PhotographyOnline
Whether you are in auto or manual mode, the camera is making the prediction as to which settings will give you a 'correct' exposure.
The key to success is knowing when the camera's metering system is not making the right decisions, and needs adjusting.
As long as you know how this is done, I don't think it matters which mode you use.
Manual mode gives you more choices, because you are free to choose any settings you like, whereas exposure compensation has a limited range.
Was on Skye two years ago, really want to come again to this beautiful island...🥰
We hope you can return soon.
By far the very best photography show on UA-cam. I learn something new every time. Very informative, entertaining and set in the beautiful Isle of sky. Cant wait for next episode.
Great to hear!
That the best explanation of the benefits of manual over aperture priority I have ever seen! Great job!
Cheers Martin
Thanks for sharing.... great video & comments...as a hobbyist I am still learning at 78 yrs old....we are in lockdown in Melbourne Australia so I loved watching your video... cheers 😀
Stay safe down there Robert. Thanks for watching
You say towards the end of the AV article that by switching to M you take the cameras Meter out of the equation, if that's the case what are you metering with?
Speaking purely in Landscapes with digital I'd guestimate even M shooters are still using the camera Meter whether that is to set the exposure or use the Histogram. If you use the histogram then in M you might need to change the SS, likewise in Av you use exposure comp to get the right Histogram.
It could also be said that watching the Light as a priority, if you've set your Histo with Ecposure comp you don't need to check as often in Av and can just watch the light and hit the button, in M you have to watch the Histo rather than the light!
All that said it's not Film, no need to be so accurate. Modern sensors and software have more than enough latitude to get it right in the processing, which you're going to use anyway so don't split hairs.
Hi Andrew. The histogram has nothing to do with the camera’s meter. The histogram is a graph showing the tones which make up the image. This is what you should use for exposure as it doesn’t rely on any assumptions from the camera. The histogram shows where the limitations (dynamic range) are of the camera to record highlight and shadow detail (white and black points) and has no connection to the camera’s meter. Also, to say that you don’t need to be so accurate is really. It the best attitude. That’s like telling a singer they don’t need to hit the right notes because their pitch can be corrected with auto tune. There’s many situations where the dynamic range of the scene will be greater than that of the camera. If you are not able to be accurate with exposure then you are likely to lose such shots as a result of exposure error. Hope this makes sense. All the best.
@@PhotographyOnline The Histogram and Light meter are using the same information but displaying it in different forms.
If you use M as you did on the B&W checker and metered on the white or black as you did with AV you would get the same results, it depends on you metering on the wider scene first to get your setting, it depends on your workflow and how you want to present your point.
You'd obviously use the Exposure Comp in AV to avoid clipping or as available in most modern cameras, use the Live highlight Alarm
Both M and AV or SS have their advantages and pitfalls, saying one is better than another limits the kit of tools we have at our disposal.
Hello...please can you tell me the make/model of the pistol grip mount....brilliant video, many thanks.
Hi. The grip is a Manfrotto 322RC2. These are not made anymore but if you have trouble finding a good used one, we have a few for sale.
Well presented tutorial on aperture mode. An intermediate step to avoid missing the moment in aperture mode could be to introduce bracketing. It does create more images to look at in post but it’s easy to rank keepers in software. So a first pass elimination of under or over exposed images leaves you with higher keeper rate. It covers those moments where the sun pokes out of the clouds or the white rabbit emerges briefly from its hole.
Once you see how images change because of the limitations of the camera you can move forward to manual mode, or not.
Thanks Geoffrey for your comment. The problem is that you are just introducing a safety net to compensate for the pitfalls of a system rather than using a more accurate method and becoming a better photographer. Ultimately it is up to each individual to do whichever method they prefer, but by bracketing everything just introduces more work at the post processing stage. Thanks for watching. All the best.
Excellent and brilliant information as usual!
Thanks very much Neil
This is such a GREAT show and as a student there are so much to be observed and learned all in a a very Pleasant and Professional Environment. With so much Gratitude and Appreciation for the work you all do. Great Job! THANK YOU SO MUCH🙏
Thanks very much. We hope you continue to learn and get inspired from our future shows. All the best.
OK, I owe Marcus a big "Thank you!"
I was a committed Aperture Priority user until I tried his thought process for using Manual mode from this show. I have to say, I'm getting a lot closer to the colors and the exposure I want right out of the camera, now! I'm feeling more confident and more ready to give medium format a go, too!
Thanks, Marcus! And thank you to the entire team--another great show, as always!
Great to hear Eric. Thanks very much for letting us know.
This is the best free magazine program for photographers. I find it perfect for helping my photography and giving me ideas for experimentation which I really enjoy.
Thanks Brian. That’s great to hear.
Thanks again for such a friendly, inclusive approach to photography. You take the audience and the audience's needs seriously. This youtube subscription has helped me stray beyond the automatic setting of (to me) an expensive camera to get much more from it, and my own landscape endeavours. Seeing folk hike for miles and hours, sometimes to come back later for want of ideal conditions, is realistic about the pursuit - you don't pretend that aspect is easy! You've got the Skye Mountains and seas and you're not afraid to use them! Thank you!
Hi Adrian. Thanks for watching and for your kind comments.
Aperture priority mode works well for me with action and wildlife photography, easier than trying to adjust shutter speed on the fly.
Hi Michael. It sounds like you’re not very fluent in the use of Manual controls. As we mentioned in the feature, it is something which will become instinctive if you practice did do it often enough. AP is faster when you are starting out, but Manual mode should be quicker and simpler once you get used to it. Ultimately though it is up to each person to do what they are most comfortable with. All we were doing here is to highlight why AP can hold some people back. It really depends how much control you want. Thanks for watching.
Agree with your point on aperture priority mode, although it can be useful if lighting conditions are changing and your in a rush.
Thxs for another well put together show....
Use auto iso for changing light conditions. You should fix your apeture and shutter speed to get the look you want.
Awesome! Thanks for reassuring me that having shot in manual from the beginning of my DSLR journey was the correct approach. Another great and inspiring show.
Thanks very much Jon.
There’s no really ‘correct approach’ Jon. Some people may prefer one way, and others something else. Getting the shot right in camera is the key! Peace
Love this channel. Keep up the good work!
Glad you enjoy it!
Nick “I’m a proper camper!” Love the not so subtle dig!
AV, TV, Manual, they are all just modes. Neither of them is faster or has an advantage over the other. The photographer still has to pay attention to the settings and adjust according to each situation. In manual mode you would adjust whichever setting you want, in AV you would adjust by exposure compensation. They all still require a thinking mind behind the camera, and adjustments to get what you want. The photographer is still in full control, if he or she is worth their salt.
Even if you shoot in auto you need to have a good grasp of the exposure triangle and keep an eye on what the camera is choosing in any given situation, and.......adjust accordingly.And as an aside, as a wildlife photographer I tend to often shoot wide open in certain situations, not to control depth of field, but to gather as much light as I can in low light situations. In that instance, the aperture is most definitely about exposure.All that said, I am a big proponent of beginners learning and using manual mode as much as possible; it will teach you all the things you need to know to enable you to use any mode you choose and still get great results. Which is what that particular segment was about. Kudos.
Enjoyed your video. Love Loch Eishort.
Well explained reasons to shoot in manual Exposure mode.
A tip for the windy cliff top shoot - wind levels are often much less, closer to ground level, so using the tripod with legs stretched out and camera near the ground should reduce vibration allowing those stunning 6 & 10 stop ND photos to be sharper on the rocks.
Could also use a large rock to add further stability too.
Thank you. Great content!
Photography Online rocks 🤘🤘
Thanks Marc
Marcus, excellent job. You really discussed the Aperture priority mode with totally unexpected concept. It's just like you mentioned for long lenses compression phenomenon. Amazing knowledge my friend, congratulations.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another great show everyone.
Great tips by everyone as usual.
I shoot both in Aperture Priority and Manual mode, but i find it easier to use Manual mode and adjust the exposure as Marcus said.
Looking forward to seeing your next show.
Opened my eyes thank you!
Thanks Jerry. Glad it was helpful
Interesting video.
I agree about Manual mode, I shoot aperture priority to control the the depth of field.
Of course in manual mode you are in total control. However there is a problem, I shoot a Nikon D7200 which I love.
The camera has no live histogram. So Manual then seems very clumsy.
Any advice to get around this would be appreciated. As it is aperture priority seems easier.
Hi Sean. You don’t need a live histogram to use Manual mode. I would say that a live histogram is actually a pain in the backside. Just use the exp meter to get you in the right area, then take a test shot and review the histogram to see if you need to make any adjustments - which you can now do with any of the exp triangle settings. Good luck
@@PhotographyOnline thanks I’ll give that a go.
Damn! I just found out metering modes don't matter when you're in manual mode. Great stuff guys
Glad to be of help Bassey. We missed you for the Premiere!
Yes they do, if you don't pay attention to it then your pics could really dark or white out happens.
Is it possible to briefly at the beginning of each video clip to show on screen maybe on the side or bottom what camera is being used to record the video and settings, maybe a quick look back towards the videographer every now and then and sound mic being used. Thanks as always for such a great program full of useful information.
Hi David. Thanks for your suggestion. We always use a Canon R6 with a 35mm f/1.4 lens to record 90% of the show. We usually use this around f/2 but it varies. Hope this helps
There is that 'better' word again. What is 'better' for you, might not be for someone else.. Everything has pros and cons. While I agree that Manual mode is preferable in some situations, and it's a useful thing for people to learn, most of the time I still prefer Aperture priority mode. If you learn all the modes, then you can use them how you want, when you want. To each their own, I also prefer a car with an automatic transmission... 🤷🏼♂️ 🙂
Brilliant. Hope to see you at the Camera show..
Cheers Craig
Dynamic range on most modern cameras is more than sufficient to adjust exposure where necessary in post processing in a matter of seconds. The marked improvement in sensor technology also makes many blown out highlights and unrecoverable blacks largely a thing of the past. Therefore to be honest, I think manual mode is a solution to a problem that no longer exists and over the past twelve years, each of my cameras can meter far quicker and usually more accurately than me. If that makes me stupid then so be it, but I can still obtain pretty good results far more often than not.
Hi Michael. You are correct that modern sensors have a much wider latitude, which provides a certain amount of error margin for exposures in many scenes. However, there are still many scenes with a dynamic range will will exceed that of the sensor, so if you take the approach of "don't worry about it - it'll be alright in post" then you will come up against problems every now and again. Also, the approach of not trying to perfect things at the capture stage is a dangerous one to follow as it will lead to laziness and a lack of good camera skills. We see this being a major problem for many photographers who come to us to help them improve. Obviously it is up to you to adopt whichever attitude best suits, but the one you describe is certainly not one we would encourage to photographers wanting to further their skills. We hope you enjoyed the show and thanks for taking the time to comment. All the best.
@@PhotographyOnline What a very polite and civil reply! That is something of a rarity in itself, but much appreciated. Yes, I fully appreciate that the advice given by your presenter was technically sound. Perhaps also I genuinely enjoy post processing more than most, so don't begrudge the minutes spent in Lightroom and/or Capture One on my images. My first interchangeable lens camera was a Panasonic Lumix G1, which had a mediocre dynamic range and I was constantly blowing out my highlights. But in truth, if I'd exposed for the highlights with that camera I'd have ended up with some atrocious noise when attempting to lift the shadows. Thankfully the technology has moved on a bit since then and it is clear to me that original, untouched scenes contain a much wider range of lights and darks, before anything is done to either. But anyway, no offence meant and thank you for your valuable presentations, which invariably contain lessons I can learn. The biggest danger I think is simply repeating what we have always done, so that we never get any better with our photography.
Despite the fact that in certain aspects of photography I disagree with some of the instructors, these guys are great, they’ve created a fantastic product and I would like to meet them in person one day.
Congratulations 👏
Cheers Celso
Do you mind telling me the name of the tripod and head? I learned a lot from this video, thanks!
Hi John. The tripod used in this video is actually custom made, but it is basically a slightly larger version of a Kingjoy A86 which are sold through our online shop. The head is a Manfrotto 322RC2. We did a feature about tripod a few shows back so check this out as we give lots of info about both items. Thanks
Another great show folks. Thanks.
Our pleasure!
Thank you for another great show. Love the way Marcus explains things, thank you.
Thanks Lynn
Thank you Marcus for your enlightening article on Aperture Priority. For some years now I have operated my camera in AV mode to achieve the good depth of field and sharp images from the lense then altering the exposure to suit varying conditions seemed the norm. Changing to Manual makes so much sense. Thank you for thse insights.
Hi Mark. Many thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Great to hear it was helpful. All the best.
Great video!! What type of tripod are you using.. if you can share?
Hi Adam. The tripod is a Kingjoy A86. We sell them through our shop if that helps. You’ll find a link to this in the video description. Thanks for watching. All the best.
Catching up on your shows which I really enjoy. I have made the move from AP to all Manual shooting but whilst I agree you should know how to use manual and it's essential for some shots (eg long exposures) I'd have to say Aperture Priority and Exposure Compensation is fine for most shots imho. If photographers like Mads Peter Iverson and Nigel Danson use Aperture Priority regularly then I can't see much wrong with it. Like I said, I have moved to all Manual shooting but that's mostly because I do a lot of long exposure shoots and can't be bothered to keep swapping between modes!
Using any semi-auto mode is more work than using manual mode. If you don’t want to be in full control over your photography then keep using AP or SP, but if you want to refine your results then manual is the way to go.
Excellent video presentation yet again
Thanks NikCan
Nick Hanson, you are a funny dude, just one more ingredient to an all-around great show, my absolute favorite.
Cheers Paul. Glad you enjoyed it.
Another cracking show! Especially enjoyed the manual exposure segment. Cheers!
Glad you enjoyed it
Love this channel!
Shoot in aperture priority all the time. No issues at all. I use a mirrorless camera though rather than the old hat DSLRs. So I can set the camera up to show me what I am actually exposing for in real time in the EVF.
Sadly that doesn’t solve anything. Whether you have a Mirrorless or DSLR is irrelevant. The limitations of Aperture Priority remain the same. You are still not in full control of the exposure.
Yeah, so you’re now having to control the Aperture, then adjust the exposure with Exp compensation, then also apply AE lock when you want to recompose! Talk about making what would be a very simple process in manual mode complicated! Ultimately it is up to you to choose whatever you are happy with, but we see lots of people making mistakes because they are putting too much faith in their camera. All we are doing here is showing why using AV can limit you when it comes to controlling exposure. If you dismiss it, then that’s fine, but many people will no doubt benefit. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Hi. Not sure why you are reading the tone as being aggressive? Also, where is the inappropriate language? There’s nothing to our knowledge which wouldn’t be suitable for younger viewers.
Spot on advice , thank you.
Thanks for watching!
thank you guys great information
Our pleasure!
Best photography show on youtube. Hard pressed to click away. Engaging all episode. That Marcus McAdam bloke sure knows his stuff and is a natural tutor.. Thanks for the lens cloth... it actually came in handy one photowalk i did... LOL
Thanks for watching Roberto and for taking the time to write your kind comments.
Good show! Thank you!
Our pleasure!
I found that on my Nikon D750 shooting in M the exposure compensation does work as it does in A.
Hi Keith. That’s because you have “Auto ISO” enabled, which means that you’re still not in control of the exposure! It’s not possible to have Exp Comp if you are in full manual mode as there’s nothing to compensate for. If the user has full control of Exp Time, ISO and Aperture, then the camera has nothing left to compensate with. Try turning off Auto ISO and you should see that Exp comp disappears. If not, let me know as I’ll be curious to know what your camera is doing. Thanks the comment (Marcus)
Went to the shooting menu on my D750 and selected iso sensitivity settings. Sure enough, auto iso was off.
In that case, what is your camera using to compensate? If you have control over aperture, Exp time and ISO, how can it be compensating? What value is it changing?
@@PhotographyOnline
I read the Nikon d750 hand book as watched a tutorial from Nikon and agree that there is no need to compensate for exposure. Yesterday evening in the shade I did some test starting, as I remember, on full manual. That is 1/60th of a sec at f8 with iso at 400. The iso auto was off. I dialed in +2.7 on the exposure and all but blew out the image. I returned the exposure composition back to center and got a well exposed image. From what I read and think I understand there should not be any difference at all since every element in the exposure is set to manual.
Thanks so
@@PhotographyOnline
I want to thank you for staying with me on this. I did finally figure it out. I have an app that tells me when there is the possibility of a great sunset so I head to the lake for beautiful sunset photos bracket for HDR. If I remember to turn brackets off then exposure returns to as advertised. Thank you so much! Learning is great!
These guys never disappoint! :) Hard to believe this content is available for free
Thanks Sanket
Hello from southern Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada. Another great show. I started following your channel about a month ago. Best photography show on UA-cam. Love the tech tips. How’s about a follow up on Manual mode and proper use of ISO.
Hi Neil. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment. Out of interest, how would you describe the proper use of ISO?
Stove and dehydrated meals👍👨🍳good man
Fun and informative show. Have you considered getting an mountain bike or even a dirt bike sturdy enough to haul gear to reach some of these remote locations? I'm thinking they could be time and or back savers.
Hi Brian. Thanks for the suggestion but the remote areas we feature wouldn’t be accessible by bike as the ground is often too rough. All we would do is end up carrying the bike as well! Thanks for watching
@@PhotographyOnline Fair point. Now I understand why mountain climbers hire Sherpers. After seeing your collective work and the work of a few others, I must make it to GB with cameras, Sherpers and without about 20 pounds. Thank you!
Seems to be a lot of negative comments about the aperture priority piece. I too have been using this mode predominantly for wildlife for over fifteen years but always manual for landscapes. I like the speed of av and exposure comp with unpredictable wildlife but that said I totally agree with the points made by Marcus about av mode.
Hi Steve. As soon as you provide an opinion, there will always be people who take issue with it. However, if we never gave our opinion then we wouldn’t be achieving what we aim to achieve - to help the majority of photographers improve their skills and inspire people to get out more. I agree with your philosophy of using Aperture Priority for wildlife and Manual for landscapes, even though I would personally still shoot wildlife in manual too. The main message of the feature was to show how AP is not a good shooting mode for landscapes, so good to know you agree with this. Thanks as always for watching.
@@PhotographyOnline If you're trying to teach people you shouldn't go around telling them they're wrong and shortchanging themselves if they use Av. That's nonsense. Av, Shutter priority , and Manual are all valid techniques to suit individual shooting styles. Now if you want to tell someone when they're starting out that they should learn manual mode so they understand the exposure triangle that's fine. We all probably started out learning manual.
Hi Michael. Can you show me where I said anyone was wrong and shortchanging themselves if they use AP?
@@PhotographyOnline it’s mainly just the title, the video is balanced
@@PhotographyOnline The very title of the video says "why you don't want to shoot in aperture priority". Anybody that can understand English would interpret that as you think they're wrong to shoot in Av. A direct quote " if you want to truly master exposure, you can't use Av". Those are your words that sound pretty synonymous with you think they're wrong. Now regarding the shortchanging, another direct quote " Don't continue to use Av, as you will then be preventing yourself from progressing". Sounds pretty much like they would be shortchanging themselves.
shoot AP if you want a good backgound blur. kind of impossible for landscape photography but bird pics it's great.
Hi Ted. That’s terrible advice. You have full control over depth of field (which I assume is what you mean by background blur) in Manual mode. AP is not good for birds in flight because the camera is controlling the Exp time - the most important element for a fast moving subject. Please don’t pass on bad information here. We are trying to help viewers improve their photography, not confuse them. Thanks
Re your aperture priority piece, what’s your workflow when shooting a landscape with rapidly changing light, such as sunrise, sunset or passing clouds? If you shoot in manual, won’t you need to be continually adjusting your settings to compensate?
Hi David. You ask a god question but the answer is easy. The brightest part of a landscape is usually sunlit clouds. These stay the same regardless of whether the sun is penetrating to the ground or not, so if working in Manual mode you simply position these clouds to be at the higher end of the camera’s dynamic range. Every exposure will now be perfect, so it’s simply a case of waiting for the light to do whatever you want it to do. If you were shooting in AP mode, then the camera would be changing the exposure all the time, which is the last thing you want. Hope that makes sense?
Yes, though likely less than one stop at a time and only your shutter speed (as long as it’s within values appropriate for the scene)
On the contrary you don’t want the camera to compensate as when the strong light comes out, it will underexpose
An alternative approach would be to use exposure compensation but then the result would depend on how your camera meters exactly as well as the other pitfalls mentioned in the video
Great and informative show as always. I was wondering which Osprey backpack and size Nick was using?
It's the 'Atmos AG 65'. It's around three years old, so the design has changed slightly since I got mine. (Nick)
Another great video guys well done
Thanks Mick
Great show as always, thanks. I moved to manual mode sometime ago and made plenty of mistakes to begin with but now it’s more instinctive . And less to think about to think about when trying to capture fleeting moments and changing light, which is definitely good for me. Still use aperture or shutter priority modes sometimes when taking wildlife shots especially when things are moving fast.
Sounds like you’re doing everything correctly Steven. The more experience you gain, the more competent you’ll become with your gear. This leads to more confidence, which cannot be underestimated when it comes to photography.
I agree with the use of Manual for landscapes and controlled situations. I was following along until 11:25 when Markus says to ignore the camera's meter and take control. Are you using the "Sunny 16" guide or a hand held meter? Light meters are not very prevalent in most photographer's kits, and I'll bet there are a lot of viewers Googling "Sunny 16" right about now. Personally I use spot metering and for Nikon that is the active focus point. Then I'll look at the review image and the histogram and work from there.
Hi Jim. No special rules or handheld meters are necessary. All you need is the camera’s histogram, as this is not the camera metering, it is a graph of the tones which make up the image. So no mid tone is needed which eliminates the potential for the camera to get it all wrong. If you use spot meter on your camera then your camera is looking for a mid tone. If you don’t want your subject to be a mid tone, then this is pretty useless. Does that make sense?
@@PhotographyOnline I get that and agree. It also helps in choosing the correct graduated ND for those of us using them... However, a meter reading or sunny 16 guesstament gets close to start with. It is also important to mind the settings to get the type of image seen in the mind's eye.
Nick: “To get the money shot, a mans got to do what a mans got to do”…
Ooh err missus! 🤣
Glad that piece of script writing wasn’t wasted!
@@PhotographyOnline I think the first part "getting blown all night long might interrupt my sleep" was just as worthy. Hahah...
Great video guys thank you, what’s October time like on Skye? Hope to avoid the Midges but still have a chance of some good light?
Cheers
Hi Lozzza. Oct is a great month on Skye. The landscape looks very golden and the light is often very dramatic. Midges should be gone by then. They are already disappearing fast
Once again fantastic advice , beautiful images too , I have the book and it's brilliant jam packed with advice , tips and images always great to back to again and again . Thanks look I foward to the next one 👌👍
Thanks so much May. All the best.
Another great and informative show, enjoyed the sections on Aperture priority v manual and the '2 of us', but I also have to commend the section on the photo's that Harry did to discuss these, good to see pics that needed some work done on them and some tips on post image editing. Thanks again team, look forward to the next episode.
Glad it was helpful Bob. Thanks for your support.
Fantastic stuff once again. Thank you.
Thanks very much Steve
Great show. I am also a catch-up viewer. Thank you for keeping content together. I was getting a little frustrated with some previous shows where the presentation was a little fragmented. Especially if you want to review an episode again it is much better this way. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!!
Who do we ask to have a look at a photo editor like Affinity Photo, just might be a little softer on the budget in the long run.
Could the main players not also put a photographers camera on the market.
I do understand the requirement for WiFi, Bluetooth, 8K video, GPS and all that for many photographers.
However when you are likely to be mugged if you do street photography in the middle of a crowded are with every body just watching, then you don't even want to take a camera that costs more than a small car out of the safe.
Give us a camera with the fastest eye tracking auto-focus a fast frame rate, silent shutter and enough pixels so you can crop if you can not get close enough. Good dynamic range, low noise and ergonomically packaged. An adjustable timer to keep the shutter open for up to at least 60 seconds. Also a decent battery life and a high end view finder. Take out all the other stuff that makes the camera unaffordable as it is not just the price, it is also the insurance just take it out of the safe.
Please don't misinterpret this a a request to stop making the fancy cameras. This is a plead for a top end photographers camera at an affordable price. Hope you can whisper in the ear of some influential people at the show, while we drool about all the new stuff as spring weather allows us a couple of more daylight hours down south.
Once again my compliments on the content, the presentation and how it was all kept together!!
Stay safe!!!!!!!
Hi Adolf. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to send your thoughts. All the best.
Great show again. Really enjoyed Nick’s adventure piece. Shame about the sunrise. Glad he kept his hair in place though. 😁😁😁😁😁😁
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi team great show as always the segment about about AV mode was really interesting as a photographer of some 46 years i started shooting manual when i got my first camera a Zenith E and then on my next 3 cameras which where also manual when automated cameras came out i admit i got lazy and shot on the auto modes as they were a novelty but after about a year switched back to manual and have been using it for 30 + years
Thanks Alexander. Thanks for watching and for letting us know your approach. All the best.
Are we getting close to the comedic quality of “Top Gear” while maintaining reverence for a fantastic topic? Hope so.
Thanks for another superb show - the best on UA-cam!
I'm confused by one thing though, in your feature on Manual vs AP. You mention (in some of your answers to comments especially) using the histogram to tell if your shot is exposed correctly, but my camera only shows the histogram after I've taken the shot, but not before. Do you mean that you take a 'test' shot in manual and then adjust if the histogram shows the exposure was out? I know that mirrorless cameras display the histogram before shooting, but I can't seem to get that on my DSLR (Nikon D5600). Or do you use the camera's light meter to check exposure in an image before shooting, and use your knowledge of the subject to decide whether to under or over expose? Lastly, I never use live view, but always look through the viewfinder, mainly because the autofocus on my camera seems to 'hunt' a lot in live view. Is it still possible to use manual correctly without using live view?
I've always used AP and would be interested in trying manual, but finding it all a bit mind-boggling at the moment!
Hi Rachel. Thanks for your questions. You should be able to get a histogram if you use live view. Hidden deep in your camera menu somewhere will be an option to choose what you see on the live view screen. All you need to do is tick the histogram box. Once live view is activated, it’s usually (but not always!) the down button on Nikon cameras which then rotated through whichever options you have enabled. This will then give you the histogram before you take a shot, but the method you described is also fine if you can’t get it to work as described above. You can use the camera’s meter but you need to remember that this is always based on your subject averaging out to be a mid tone, so it’s far from ideal. Using manual mode in Live View should be super easy but I know a lot of Nikon cameras don’t have exposure simulation to allow the live view to get brighter and darker as you change the settings. This is a real hindrance in my opinion. All canon cameras do this as a default and it makes everything so much easier. This may be why you are having trouble working in manual mode when using live view. I hope this helps. All the best.
@@PhotographyOnline Thanks for your quick reply - I'll have a go!
Thanks really enjoyed the show and thanks for the evaluation of my image.
You’re welcome Eugene
Thanks again for a great show
Our pleasure!
Fab show as always, thank you!!
Cheers Rob
I missed the premiere, but in my defence I was out with my camera.
As suggested AV is useful for walklaround street photography. I can quickly change from f/7.1 which I used for most street photography and 5.6 which I used for close ups of single objects in the street. When I go out for landscapes though, Manual is a must. As it is in most situations. But on the street I need to be able to quickly point, focus, and shoot so knowing I am on F7.1 already is really handy. Of course I know my camera and when AV won't cut it too.
Thanks for watching. Good to know you agree with the principle of the feature.
Another great episode, as always!
During the 'Just the Two of Us' feature, Nick remarks that he can't use too long an exposure due to the wind. Have any of you thought about, or even tried, to use an anchor type system to secure the tripod? Instead of hanging a swinging bag from the tripod, a ground anchor (something like a dog lead anchor that screws into the ground) and a bungie between that and the tripod, to pull the tripod down?
I've tied tripods & cameras down to rocks before now but that's really just to stop the tripod blowing over or completely away. The main photographic issue with wind is vibration in the tripod, hence the need for upping shutter speed. Also watch out for slot-in filters flapping in the wind causing visual distortions as well as acting as a sail to pull the tripod over.
Was that just an Osprey hiking bag as opposed to a dedicated camera bag and if so how did you stow your camera gear.
It's the 'Atmos AG 65'. It's around three years old, so the design has changed slightly since I got mine. I used a F-Stop insert
Hi Team: Another great video. I am sorry that I wasn't able to join you in real-time for the launch of this video. I really liked Marcus's segment on shooting in Av mode. Cheers, Keith
Cheers Keith.
As expected, some outstanding content to the show. I frequently watch past shows because of the quality of the content, I enjoy the concept of the shows very much.The Shooting in manual verses aperture section was intriguing for me to contemplate because of my diverse shooting styles given circumstances and situations. The ideal of full manual is open to debate, I think. Circumstances dictating the means, not the means dictating to circumstances or visa versa, for me, has been down to a choice or compromise of creative control value. I’m not suggesting that there is a definitive right or wrong way. Whatever, loving the show !!
Thanks for your feedback Alan. All the best.
Dr. Harry Martin - You need a Doc Martin tee shirt! Great show as usual.
wonderful show team thank you all so much in sharing cheers from trev down south
Cheers Trev. Thanks as always for watching
@@PhotographyOnline thank ruth and team i must say that was a long hike to get to the photo shoot and it must be annoying for the hair to get so untidy he he love to all trev