He’s simply saying, it’s better to over-truck your trailer than it is to over-trailer your truck. And that makes perfect sense, especially from a safety factor.
I agree, and at the same time for those with a bit of common sense...there are a "truck load" of factors that need to be considered too. IE; weekend warriors that haul their campers out to a place maybe 45 minutes from home a couple three times a year for family putting vs RV full timers. I am not saying in the least to haul a 23k pound trailer with a Ford ranger, I am saying use the factory tow rating numbers, they are already conservative for a reason and liability. Chevy isn't going to tell you to tow 8500 pounds and it not be safe. Me personally, I wouldn't take a max tow and tongue across the country, but I absolutely would to an hour away to park, weekend it up and drive back home. Again, I agree with 'over truck' but use common sense. Don't buy a one ton dually to pull a 4k pound travel trailer for a weekend an hour away. Likewise, don't buy a half ton to pull 23k pounds just because you are a seasonal camper and just need to do it once. Both are not realistic.
I couldn't agree more. However, in my case, I needed great fuel economy and decent drivability. I settled on a RAM ecodiesel. I towed through 38 states while full time RVing for 4 years. I was 200 lbs overweight the entire time. I used an exceptional hitch and kept my speed below 62mph. The truck is still with me and is as reliable as when new.
Unfortunately, common sense is not so common. I had a U-haul absolutely maxed out, the 26 footer, biggest you can get, and it managed just fine for 2,350 miles. I had to argue with the guy because he was trying to put me in a 30 year old truck. It definitely wasn’t rated for my needs or what was advertised. Still, going through the mountains I could only do 53-54 in second gear. Granted, I had a car trailer, SUV, 2 motorcycles, and a ton of furniture. I pushed that 11,500 pound limit as close as you can get.
I had F350 camper special supercab pulling 7K lbs. 5th wheel trailer. For ~30 years camping life came to an end now. Built a small cottage for 4 seaon use. Many, many fond memories travelling/camping.
I am planing on upgrading my tow vehicle from 3/4 ton to 1 ton dually to tow my 12,800 pound 5th wheel trailer better. This gentleman did answer a question I had about the payload differences between a single tire axle and a dually axle 1 ton truck.
I went from a 1/2 ton GMC to a 1 ton dually Ford with my 33’ travel trailer and it was a huge improvement! Having too much truck is ALWAYS the best move!
JD , I think this is probably your best Towing video, the explanation of different truck size and types and vehicle capabilities is very well done and spot on. If everyone searching for a towing vehicle or RV watched this video I feel that many towing issues could be avoided and many questions answered. I watched this video a few times before purchasing my truck and Fifth wheel and feel very confident that my choices were chosen properly and responsibly . Thanks keep ‘me coming.
Those are some great guidelines but you really need to look your truck over carefully. The best source of information is the tag on the inside of your truck. No guessing on your model type or packages. You need to know what you have before getting a trailer and make it work for you.
My 2023 Honda was $26k, $450 a month at 7% interest (I’m paying more than my payment each month to pay off faster) double that it’s $52k at $900 a month😅 so anything over 60k is guaranteed $1k/month. I could barely reason the price of the Honda let alone over 1k/month on a truck😂 these truck prices are starting to get higher than bmw’s it’s crazy
In a nutshell. 150/1500 series are good to tow a 6,500lb travel trailer or less 250/2500 series are good for travel trailers 350/3500 series are good for travel trailers and up to mid sized 5th wheels. 350/3500 Dually trucks - can tow anything I can afford.
Love Love Love my 2008 Chevy Silverado Diesel Dually 4x4..8' bed..Quad cab..Pulls everything I need it to haul & pull.. THank you for your review. I send FB friends to you and your reviews..New RVers need all the info they can get. I see so many rearend trucks pulling RV's on the highway, bottomed out and sunken in, and that is scary, very dangerous too.. Happy Trails Tallahassee FL,..
I had a 2018 Colorado and pulled a 3500lb boat with it and absolutely hated it, so I bought a 2019 Frontier and that thing pulls that 3,500lb boat beautifully.
It took me several years to learn the lesson that as families grow, so to does payload. My first tow vehicle purchased 10 years ago was a 1/2 ton Ram. The payload was easily maxed out with the particular configuration of that truck. After a few years and with the kids growing up I purchased a 2013 Suburban 1/2 ton. This Suburban had fairly respectable towing capacity but payload really suffered when we had all 7 seats being utilized and then having a couple of loaded coolers in the back. A few years ago I decided to go the 3/4 ton route and purchased a 2017 Silverado HD gasser and haven’t looked back. Hauling my 8000 # bumper pull without stressing about being overloaded really puts me at ease and driving is much more enjoyable. I wish 10 years ago I had the knowledge about towing that I have now.
I was in the exact same boat as you. I pulled with a 1/2 ton ram and although it did the job I was tired of stressing while pulling my camper. I bought a 2500HD gmc 8.1L with the Allison trans. Man!!! What a difference and I enjoy pulling my camper now.
Thank you so much for this video. Very unbiased and informative. I “accidentally” got a F350 diesel super duty which was more than I needed but I love it and I am excited to know I can pretty much go in whatever direction I want when time comes to update my travel trailer.
What I got out of this, more options in the truck, less trailer weight. Gotta stick to small runaway campers and getting used to porta potty. Thank you for sharing and be safe.
@@kylejohnson3892 what does 60k have anything to do with him buying a truck? And why would it have to be used? Do you know this person and how much they have in their bank if they are able to buy a new truck or not?
I really like all the truck videos made me sit with paper and pencil and figure what truck I really need to pull the camper my family wants being new to campers it really helps to have videos like this
Make sure you are checking the tow capacity. In my ignorance, i thought my F-150 could tow 10,100 lbs, Not even close. I didn't realize i didn't have a tow package and only a class 4 hitch. This dropped my capacity down to 6000 lbs. We were about a day away from buying a trailer that was 6500 lbs. The dealer didn't bother asking, they don't care, they just want the sale. We ended up with a much more better option of 4400 lbs. Thank god i was questioning my capacity so much, i would have been stuck. I have a 2023 F-150 XL. Ask the dealer, they will help, ours did.
This video has been very informative. Been following you while I make my decision to purchase a travel trailer. Thanks for your unbiased reviews and information.
I like the video alot. A good rule of thumb is to not let the Gross combined weight to exceed 75% of the GCWR. Numbers are calculated at standard day sea level conditions. Always good to keep sufficient margin, which is what I liked about this video..
I wish someone would put a class together to explain all this to dealerships. It should be required training. I always ask people at the dealers for the payload sticker and they always look at me like I'm crazy.
Ha. Watched your video about 1/2 T travel trailers and you talked just about trailers. I commented that you need to spend a moment to talk trucks... well here you are! Nicely done.
Mostly from viewing your videos and taking stock of what I had, I bought a 2021 XLT F-250 SuperDuty with the Camper Package yesterday. What a huge difference from my previous 2018 Lariat F-150. Now I'll be getting a Weigh Safe WD Hitch to handle the upcoming travel trailer we are in the process of purchasing. Thanks for keying me on how NOT to skirt weight capacities on payload and towing. I was at almost 90% on the F-150.
Good info. Your video along with comments from people in my circle impressed upon me about the limitations of my Ram 1500 which still bottomed out even after replacing the rear springs with two levels stiffer. As well, I was concerned with how insurance companies will not cover you should an incident happen (when you’re over limits). I ended up upgrading to a Chevy 2500 LT 4x4 (6.6L gas) and feel so much more secure especially with it having a 3300 lbs payload capacity (1500 more than the Ram I recently sold). Not looking back; looking forward, securely.
@@weezer648 The hemi was fine. It’s a good engine design in my experience. The 6.6L is simply a stronger engine and seems to take on the same task with less required effort. Now, the structure of my 3/4 ton feels so much more secure and capable and the rear hardly squats (maybe 1/2”; not even close to bottoming out).
@@weezer648 Hi Jeff, now that it’s been one year since I bought my Chevy 2500HD which is also a Double Cab, I love it. It’s been fully reliable and secure feeling. I also have the AutoTrac option which is great for conditions such as winter roads (AWD engages when there is slip). I recall that GM/Chevy is the only one to provide an AWD system in an HD truck.
All the new Chevy 2500 Diesel trucks have a GVWR in the 11k range. The one I almost bought had a payload of 3300 lbs. They are really a whole new class of vehicle now.
I got sucked into that “this half ton will easily pull this trailer” sales pitch, but quickly found out that the payload ran out immediately. I have now settled on a one ton srw truck and no longer have to white-knuckle it on the highway. Too soon old, too late smart.
We need more people like this to educate people! I saw a ram 1500 on its roof last weekend near Austin TX on 130, cause he was doing 85mph (85 is the speed limit there) and had too much trailer for his truck.
Very nicely explained - hopefully saves some folks some headaches. Note: There is a new(ish) ISO / ASME standard for payload numbers - these allow for the passengers ( per seat belt) and other items already discounted and are much more apples to apples when comparing. I know Ford and Toyota adhere to it, I'm sure that by now GM and Ram must as well ( but I don't know for sure...) it makes it easier when reading the numbers since it takes out the variables ( to an extent) for cab config .... Full Disclosure: We tow a KODIAK 291RESL ... 32 foot ball to bumper TT with GVWR of 8800#..Curb weight of 6500# - we never tow full, so call it 7500# average tow load. WE were towing it with a 2009 F150 with the 7200# GVWR option, door sticker was about 1250# and 9200# tow rating ( have to deduct 500# off the chart's max tow of 9700# and max GCVWR with the 18 or 20" wheels on this year, and it had the 18") if I recall. Needless to say, I was more or less doing a weight and balance calculation with every loadout and we won't discuss what the real numbers may have been since I never managed to hit scales with it. It worked. I upgraded to the Load Range E tires when I bought it for the added towing stability etc ( you have to find your own empty tire pressures for driving around or else you have the equivalent of a truck with no springs at all in the back as the tires have no give when at towing pressure and no load in the bed - I was at 62 Front, 50 rear EMPTY TRUCK - 64 front 75 rear - TOWING, rear tires just had a nice foot print and stayed very cool etc... probably could have done 70 ... these are the same tires you find on the 3/4 and 1 ton truck by the way), and eventually did end up adding air springs to it to regain the full empty ride height - this was needed to avoid that "light" front end ( yes, I know, air bags don't handle Weight Dist - I had that covered in the hitch ) This is due to that item mentioned about the softer suspension on the 1/2 ton ... oddly enough, realigning the driveline as a side benefit made it tow "easier" and the mileage went up a twitch and the RPM stabilized ( stopped hunting the 4th / 5th gear under load, and even enjoyed time in 6th more often than not while at 62 - 65 mph), or at least was able to be maintained ... this is over the same 1000 miles of highway which included crossing the Appalachians in each config - so apples to apples. . Most noticeable was the suspension authority on bumps ( due to returning full travel to it) and the front end authority over transitions ( bridge expansion joints in the rain for example ) CAUTION: if you use airbags in this way, they WILL NOT INCREASE your payload #'s, they are only there in this config to restore the suspension travel by transferring the load off the primary springs... and yeah, I was the geek with the tape measure checking that fender height off the ground - no shame in my game. With the full suspension authority returned, towing was again "stress free"... Okay, all that insanity said - bottom line - if you know how to drive a trailer ( let's just say Granny might start laying down the smack talk) you can do this safely...I was given many opportunities to deal with the road idiots and I can say that I've not a scratch in the paint to show for it. Today: My F350 SRW is sitting in the yard with 3,000 miles on it waiting for me to decide on hitch equipment. Mine has the 11,300# GVWR which, in the 6.2L gasser has the highest starting payload ( 4600#) and tow (12,300#) for the config ... I've graduated to the " Load and Go" club, and I'm not unhappy about it at all. You can tow a larg(er) trailer with a lighter truck safely - IF - you are careful on the entire cofiguration and then you do not overdrive the rig - can't tell you how many times I'd see 1/2 ton trucks blow my doors off with a 5th wheel on them, or a trailer like mine but the bed packed with a crew cab and family of 4 in there plus the dog....sure, the new ones will go - they have the power ( my '09 1/2 ton had a 5.4L, the '19 1 ton has a 6.2L - that's only 0.8L more "power" ) but they don't have the frame, brakes, stability, or just plain "bigness" to deal with all of that AND aggressive driving....if those other trailers started throwing their weight around those 1/2 tons would not be able to deal as they were loaded and driven. Know your limits - stay away from them - enjoy your time on the road ( and if you can't then change the limits - go bigger (truck) or stay home) - I went bigger truck 'cuz I ain't stayin' home! Let the hating commence!!
I drive a 2019 Ford ranger. My rule of thumb that I go by is I take my towing capacity from the truck manual or if it's on the door and X it by %80. That's the max I will tow so I have room. I tow a 2020 geo pro 20bhs loaded weighs under 4500 when the tow rating of my truck is 7,500 pounds leaves me room for cargo in my truck
I’ve got the new 2019 Ranger Lariat FX4 as well and I constantly get people saying it can’t handle weight/size until I show them the info and then their jaws drop to the ground. I’ve been looking at 5,000-6,000lbs (don’t have to worry about cargo....one person it’s easy lol), and about 20-24ft length. Do you like the Geo Pro? I’m assuming the “bhs” means bunks? Any cons on it yet for you? How does the Ranger handle for you?
Thanks for the informative video. I have a Chevy Colorado with the V6 and am looking forward to buying a modest travel trailer in the next few years. The 3500-4000# range seems to be the sweet spot from what I've been reading, especially if used with the anti-sway hitch.
I have a gmc canyon diesel. i tow a 25 feet kz outdoorsman with it. 7000lbs gvwr. Empty it weighs 4700lbs. Loaded with water, around 6000lbs. I use a reese straight line hitch and it tows it nooo problems. Hills, wind, big rig. In high winds situation you can feel the trailer a little but it's nothing to worry you. Engine has plenty of torque, can keep 55mph in 95% on hills i encountered. gets 16L/100km when i'm not using the cruise control, going 100km/h. Those trucks are basically half ton trucks. When you look at the payload numbers, there is only like 100-200 lbs of difference in payload. sometimes they even have more payload than those fully optioned half ton. Using the right hitch makes all the difference, make sure it is properly installed and configured too.
First off that you for the education related to properly matching the capabilities of your truck with your expectations for a RV. An appropriate case in point, last year I purchased the new 2019 RAM 2500 Laramie version, crew cab, shot bed with the Cummins diesel. For anyone that has not seen one of these, they are a BEAST. It’s a big, beautiful truck, everything about it is big, 6k axles, 10k gvwr, power to spare. It makes our 07 RAM 2500 crew cab look like a compact truck. Only problem, a 2075 lbs payload capacity. So I got everything I wanted other than the capability to pull a reasonably sized 5th wheel. Now if you run the numbers, buy the time you add the 5th wheel hitch, add 2 passengers, and some gear in the truck, you are down to around a 1500 lbs payload. There are very few 5th wheels to include the so called half ton sized 5th wheels that on paper I could pull with this truck. My bad. Now from a practical standpoint, I will get probably this year one of the smaller half ton 5th wheels on the market and if I am a couple of hundred pounds over the payload I’m not going to lose sleep over it, but it’s easy to see how poor purchasing choices can be made, even by people like me that are not new to RV’s and camping.
Made the exact same mistake on the same truck. Mine is 1950Lbs. Pin weight on my trailer is 1600lbs. Going to go to a F250 with the 7.3 gas engine. I factory ordered the Ram and will do the same with 5he Ford. So you don't know exactly the payload capacity until the truck is delivered. I have a very good idea by checking the ones they have on the lot, so it should be within 100-150 pounds of those.
Exactly. You don’t know for sure till you open the door and check the sticker. My exact same truck without the diesel and a lower trim is over 3k payload. Going to keep what I got. I really like the Ram.
The new GM 2500s have 11350 GVWR and have payloads around 3000 to 3300 depending on trim level. For raised their GVWR to 10800 for the 2020 F-250s pushing their cargo To around 2800. So it seems that these 3/4 trucks have payload capacities that were the standard for the 1 tons just last year.
I’m in central Texas and many people in Texas drive 4x4 or AWD and never leave the pavement. Snow what is that? Moreover 4x4 & AWD require more maintenance, use more gas and cost more to fix as they age. Most people can get better service going rear wheel drive.
@@RoadieWingZZ I stand by my statement that the extra cost and maintenance of AWD and diminished tow capacity, gas mileage is not worth the need. In ACL we had 3 consecutive years not one of bad storms and most of the problems were ice storm roads. Not snow. AWD 4x4 doesn’t help much on ice. People were told to stay home and off the streets.
@@marcomandolini86 I tow a boat (own a fleet) to the lake weekly and do not ever tow a boat off road (nor in the snow) as all boat ramps are concrete or road base if not concrete. I also tow MC trailers, utility trailers. Never needed to have a AWD or 4x4 to tow any of them. 4x4 reduces the towing capacity of any rig.
@@RoadieWingZZ Who tows in the snow? We have had four years of record freezes in Central Texas. Not just snow but freezing rain. a 4x4 does not help you on ice. Stay home. Dont drive just like the law says. 4x4 reduces the towing capacity of any rig.
well done. Diesel engines are not as much of a no brainer as ppl think. theres a big tradeoff in weight, maintenance, and initial cost that you have to do the math on and see if its worth it.
What makes all this even more confusing is the different drivetrain options. You can’t really say buy x truck for xx,xxx lbs towing. It would be nice if you could just use the numbers on the truck to guarantee being able to tow a certain weight (1500 truck towing 10,000 lbs, 2500 truck towing 20,000 lbs etc.) however the only answer is really to check the sticker in the door before you buy...
The weight of the vehicle comes more into play when towing enclosed trailers. So you can safely say 4k for a midsize, 7k for a half ton, 12-13k for a srw hd and the sky's the limit for duallys. This is regardless of engine unless your engine is rated for less than the average
With modern pickup trucks, numbers on the sticker on the inside of the door pretty much tell the whole story. Manufacturers are pretty good at giving the accurate data; and they usually take into account the type of engine, transmission, gear ratios, transaxle and axle.
Mick Psyphon only GM is doing the tow rating sticker. At lat year’s Texas State Fair, I looked for it on all brands of trucks and it was only on GMCs and Chevies.
Chevy is very good about listing the payload and towing capacity on the sticker inside the driver side door. You tend to have to go online to figure Fords numbers. Airbags or Sumo springs can take some of the stress off of the rear suspension though they don’t increase payload. Do you find a dually as a daily driver to be a problem? For full timers it’s often their only vehicle.
@@TheDks300 all vehicles have door tags listing the vehicle curb weight, GVWR, and payload. This is required by law. GM also includes max vehicle tow rating which is not required. I believe with Ford you need to go online to find your vehicles max tow rating. It really varies from truck to truck depending on how it’s equipped.
I’ve been asking this question last few weeks. I plan on buying a new truck sometime this year, I hope to also get a camper. The size of each is a question that need to be answered..
Find the trailer you like and then find the truck you need. Or just buy the 1-ton and call it good lol. If over 12k or consistent towing, look at diesel. Under 12k, go gas.
This is one of your best videos. I was surprised when I special ordered my 2017 RAM SRW 3500 Limited, as the dealer told me my towing capacity was at a mere 16,800 pounds. I have nearly every option on my truck, and as such opted for the 3500 over the 2500. My 5th wheel comes in at 13,500 fully loaded, so I wanted the extra ceiling space when it comes to capacity.
I know this is an older video but I wish I’d seen it before my last truck and trailer set up. While the numbers worked on paper, I regularly wished I had more truck. Our current 5th wheel is within spec of a 3/4 ton but I stepped up to a 350 SRW diesel and appreciate the extra margin every time I tow. Better to be over trucked than under trucked or just trucked
5:48 we have that exact truck, same color, RST, rims etc. With the 6.2L V8, and we tow a 2019 palomino puma 31bhss (Travel trailer), and it tows perfectly, 0 sway, all that. But no, we aren’t towing with a standard hitch mount, standard hitch, standard sway bars, standard rear suspension, etc. We did a little test, and were able to reach 90mph with NO SWAY. It’s a pretty capable truck. No, I don’t recommend you tow a 8,700 lb GVWR travel trailer with stock specs. Edit: we have been camping for 8 years, so we aren’t new to this stuff
This was an informative video. I'm new to hard shell camping. I called my Toyota dealership, gave my VIN # and asked what was my towing capacity. They came back with 6000. I cut that in half for my older 4x4 toy. We choose a tear drop with a dry weight of 1900 and total of 3000lb. I doubt that we will ever choose an RV over 6000lbs. I like the 21' larger tear drops. I was hoping a 4x4 half ton, like a Silverado, would work with a sway bar. Thank you. ~ Diane
You shouldn't have any problems with something that small and light. Something people should consider when purchasing RVs is the aerodynamics of the camper. It's not just a weight issue, but how the camper "cuts" through the air!
Super helpful. I’m wanting to get a 5th wheel RV in the future and seems like for the safety and control of a larger trailer the dulley is the way to go
I too, wouldn't want to tow an RV with a midsized pickup. However, I would tow a travel trailer with one. Lol. Where I'm from, a lot of guys remove the beds off their trucks to pull a gooseneck trailer for their hotshot business.
It means that IN GENERAL, 1/2 ton truck has a payload of 1000 lbs, 1 ton 2000 lbs, etc. but, as explained in the video, the devil is in the details. Always look at the door sticker for actual capacities.
Stole the thoughts right out of my brain, with the exception of geography, if you’re getting into mountains and busy traffic areas, turbo diesel is the only way to go IMO. Over tuck and over power for your task.
Another idea to understand a particular trucks towing capability...do a copy & paste of the trucks VIN # from the dealers website; then go to an rv dealer site that has a page about towing, find where you can enter a VIN # and you can get capacity for that specific vehicle. Don't guarantee exact numbers as I've seen some variation. But gives you a pretty good idea.
You're at a chevy dealer. They put the payload and towing numbers on a door sticker. Open a door or two to show the differences. If I'm correct the max payload on the silverado 1 double cab. I know the max tow is a double cab.
Was planning on opening them up, but sometimes not worth the hassle of trying to get all the keys for the specific trucks. Makes filming much more difficult
@@BTBRVReviews What is your opinion on the new Ram 3500? The high output engine SRW with a long box can haul 25,000 lbs, which is the weight of a luxury toy hauler
My wife and I have a 33' bumper pull RV (~9klb dry, ~800 lb tongue weigh) and we've been pulling it with an '03 Chevy Silverado 1500HD. It works, but doesn't have much extra. I'm retiring this year, and we've decided that we're going to buy a new truck, primarily for towing the RV. I've been debating with myself between a Ford F-150, which is the only 1/2 ton that I'm considering, because of its best-in-class torque (especially with the 3.5l turbo engine) and HP. (F-150 towing/payload are good for a 1/2 ton, but not great), and a 3/4 ton. I think that almost any of the 3/4 will work for us. I don't see us ever going to a 5th wheel, or going longer than 36' bumper-pull. I've watched several of your videos today, and they have certainly helped to solidify in my mind that I want to go 3/4 ton. Thanks for the good, concise coverage of the subject. [liked] [subscribed]
I know you're primarily are taking about RVs but what about cargo trailers? They tend to have drop axles and sit lower than RVs. Would you still limit the maximum towing weight the same?
@@Sig721Tau I think you'll find that RV is short for Recreational Vehicle which covers all manner of styles including travel trailers but if it makes you feel better I'll be more specific from now on. It still doesn't really pertain to my question though.
What about a 1/2 ton with max towing at 9800. Total weight 15000. And being at 14300 after everything factored in. About 400 left in payload. And 300 left in towing.
To save payload, dont use those have weight distribution hitches and carry most stuff inside the RV. If you towing anything over 10.5K get a F250 or other trucks like that. Dont tow a 12K trailer with an F150, it may donit but its longer to stop and on an emergency occuances.
Super great job! I’m glad I found this one. I think I understand your positions on towing better now. Appreciate. You are not the half ton police. Lol. 👍🏼👊🏼
For the midsized you want a longer bed and a shorter cab to tow the best. Then just get the base stuff with 4x4. Don't go a higher trim then the second one. All the power options add weight.
It really does have a lot to do with the trailer and your experience. I own a 2020 F150 Platinum that has about a 1700 lb payload cap., 13,500 towing cap., and 1350 tongue weight cap. I pull an 8600 pound, 40ft. travel trailer with it that has a tongue weight of only 780. I added Airlift 5000 bags to the suspension to alleviate any bottoming out concerns and a Reese WD hitch with friction sway control. I have no issues whatsoever pulling that trailer; she tracks along great, even as high as 70mph in no wind. That sail back there can get a little squirly in winds 30+ mph but I don't generally pull in high winds - I'm never in that big of a hurry. The built in sway control in newer trucks makes the truck feel a little soft sometimes and takes some getting used to the feel. It really does help control the sway down to next to nothing though.
Im gearing up to get a similar spec toy hauler (36 ft, 9000lb, the heartland fuel 287) and cant decide if i want to use a ecoboost f150 / ram1500 or a f250/ram2500 for extra margin of control/saftey. hows that f150 doing for you? i plan to only tow about an hour drive once a week for work.
You'll obviously always get more stability in a 3/4 ton PU than a 1/2 ton. As far as my experience, I have no issues pulling this rig; I just avoid high wind days as stated. I have pulled in high winds,just not going to be a speed limit trip. But that F150 EcoBoost gives me over 13,000 pounds towing capacity which you're not going to match from any other car maker, even in a V8 in most cases.
Depends on the diameter of your spare wheel. Kraft macaroni offers a 1" dry wheel that you may be able to haul if you hook your Prius to a 4 cylinder Ford Fusion. I'd go with the Ecoboost to be safe
I started with a beefed up 1/2 ton suburban, went to a 3/4 ton suburban ( both with beefed up 350 cu in engines, then a 1 ton crew cab dually with a 454, then a crew cab dually with a 6.5 deisel now I have an extended cab dually (kids are all grown up and gone) with the 6.6 litre gasser on order in 4x4 ,, more truck than I need for the past 2 trucks but what a dream to tow with,,,, AND the 454 in my old dually did better on fuel than thhe 350 in the 3/4 ton suburban did because it never broke a sweat, never got hot, never could not maintain speed climbing hills with a trailer in tow. Never an issue stopping fast with the big brakes on the one ton. I have seen more crashes and trucks over heated on side of the road that are under rated for whhat they are being used for.
Since you had to go to Ford anyway, I wish you would have thrown the F450 in the mix as well. It's relatively the same price as the F350's, but with so much more to offer to someone seriously looking into a dedicated tow rig (vs daily driver).
Very valuable information and thanks for the Corpus Christi scenery. Reminds me when I lived there six years ago. BTW: what’s your opinion on air bags to level the rear suspension while using a weight distribution hitch?
Thank you very much for the extremely informative videos for newbie RVers like ourselves. We have a Wildwood FSX 177BH (GVWR 3900 lbs) and we started by towing it with our Dodge Grand Caravan, that has a max tow weight of 3600 lbs. So essentially we had to tow it dry, limit the tow vehicle to the driver and use a distribution hitch, and even so it was iffy. Then we bought a RAM 1500 and I said to myself “now we can anything”! Not true as the minivan has a higher load weight than the truck, so you still have to crunch the numbers. With your “rule of thumb” towing guidelines it really simplifies things for me.
Buy the biggest truck you can afford! Begin with a 3/4 ton for trailers and start at 1 ton for 5th wheels than go up from there. Factory tow packages are a must!
Excellent video, Josh! I've been doing my homework on the various trucks; their limitations; and how to properly match them up with the proper travel trailer, or 5th wheel trailer. You hit on all the important points! This video should be mandatory viewing for anyone who wants to purchase a truck/trailer, or anyone new to it. I've seen some dangerous combinations rolling and saying down the highway. Josh, you're not in my neck of the woods, but if/when the time comes that I make the plunge, you're the first person I'm calling. Of course, I'm building the business case to present to my -boss... er... I mean- wife. 😁 I wonder how much duty I'd pay on an RV. 🤔
I think a lot depends on how the truck is specked out. I had a heavy 3/4 ton Ford regular cab that pulled our trailer average. I then bought a extended cab full bed Ford, but with the 4.8 Triton, which pulled smoothly, but was sadly under-powered. A second silmilar Ford pulled the same. I recently purchased a Dodge half ton, with the 5.7 Hemi, and full trailer package, and can't believe how it pulls. My trailer is probably 6000 pounds dry, maybe 7000 towing, and I am amazed at how well the Dodge pulls it, nothing compared to my Fords. Honestly, as a 20 year Ford hauler, I think I would look at a Dodge again in the future. I can't believe how well this unit pulls.
He’s simply saying, it’s better to over-truck your trailer than it is to over-trailer your truck. And that makes perfect sense, especially from a safety factor.
Yup, but that usually means overdrawing your bank account, especially with truck prices, but I agree.
I agree, and at the same time for those with a bit of common sense...there are a "truck load" of factors that need to be considered too.
IE; weekend warriors that haul their campers out to a place maybe 45 minutes from home a couple three times a year for family putting vs RV full timers. I am not saying in the least to haul a 23k pound trailer with a Ford ranger, I am saying use the factory tow rating numbers, they are already conservative for a reason and liability.
Chevy isn't going to tell you to tow 8500 pounds and it not be safe. Me personally, I wouldn't take a max tow and tongue across the country, but I absolutely would to an hour away to park, weekend it up and drive back home.
Again, I agree with 'over truck' but use common sense. Don't buy a one ton dually to pull a 4k pound travel trailer for a weekend an hour away. Likewise, don't buy a half ton to pull 23k pounds just because you are a seasonal camper and just need to do it once. Both are not realistic.
I couldn't agree more. However, in my case, I needed great fuel economy and decent drivability. I settled on a RAM ecodiesel. I towed through 38 states while full time RVing for 4 years. I was 200 lbs overweight the entire time. I used an exceptional hitch and kept my speed below 62mph. The truck is still with me and is as reliable as when new.
Unfortunately, common sense is not so common. I had a U-haul absolutely maxed out, the 26 footer, biggest you can get, and it managed just fine for 2,350 miles. I had to argue with the guy because he was trying to put me in a 30 year old truck. It definitely wasn’t rated for my needs or what was advertised. Still, going through the mountains I could only do 53-54 in second gear. Granted, I had a car trailer, SUV, 2 motorcycles, and a ton of furniture. I pushed that 11,500 pound limit as close as you can get.
Sometimes you can't afford to over-truck
I had F350 camper special supercab pulling 7K lbs. 5th wheel trailer. For ~30 years camping life came to an end now. Built a small cottage for 4 seaon use.
Many, many fond memories travelling/camping.
Finally, an intelligent, to the point discussion on towing vehicles.
I am planing on upgrading my tow vehicle from 3/4 ton to 1 ton dually to tow my 12,800 pound 5th wheel trailer better. This gentleman did answer a question I had about the payload differences between a single tire axle and a dually axle 1 ton truck.
I went from a 1/2 ton GMC to a 1 ton dually Ford with my 33’ travel trailer and it was a huge improvement! Having too much truck is ALWAYS the best move!
Exactly! I never heard anyone saying "I hate that my truck has extra towing capacity."
I was shopping for a 3/4ton for towing horses, ended up with a 1 ton since the dealer would deal with what they had on the lot. No complaints.
Well, except for the 340 days a year where you're not towing anything
More truck than trailer👍
You should have stayed with GMC
JD , I think this is probably your best Towing video, the explanation of different truck size and types and vehicle capabilities is very well done and spot on. If everyone searching for a towing vehicle or RV watched this video I feel that many towing issues could be avoided and many questions answered. I watched this video a few times before purchasing my truck and Fifth wheel and feel very confident that my choices were chosen properly and responsibly . Thanks keep ‘me coming.
Those are some great guidelines but you really need to look your truck over carefully. The best source of information is the tag on the inside of your truck. No guessing on your model type or packages. You need to know what you have before getting a trailer and make it work for you.
The most important number to know on these trucks is the $1,200/month payment...
My 2023 Honda was $26k, $450 a month at 7% interest (I’m paying more than my payment each month to pay off faster) double that it’s $52k at $900 a month😅 so anything over 60k is guaranteed $1k/month. I could barely reason the price of the Honda let alone over 1k/month on a truck😂 these truck prices are starting to get higher than bmw’s it’s crazy
Some people are smart enough to have something to put down, and not everyone is broke. 🤷♂️
YOU DID'NT SUGGEST THE GEAR RATIO WHICH MAKES A GREAT DEAL OF DIFFERENCE ALSO.
In a nutshell.
150/1500 series are good to tow a 6,500lb travel trailer or less
250/2500 series are good for travel trailers
350/3500 series are good for travel trailers and up to mid sized 5th wheels.
350/3500 Dually trucks - can tow anything I can afford.
Thank you for this breakdown. I wasn’t sure of the model vs 1/4, 1/2 and one ton.
Love Love Love my 2008 Chevy Silverado Diesel Dually 4x4..8' bed..Quad cab..Pulls everything I need it to haul & pull.. THank you for your review. I send FB friends to you and your reviews..New RVers need all the info they can get. I see so many rearend trucks pulling RV's on the highway, bottomed out and sunken in, and that is scary, very dangerous too.. Happy Trails Tallahassee FL,..
I had a 2018 Colorado and pulled a 3500lb boat with it and absolutely hated it, so I bought a 2019 Frontier and that thing pulls that 3,500lb boat beautifully.
This guy really knows his trucks. Awesome info.
It took me several years to learn the lesson that as families grow, so to does payload. My first tow vehicle purchased 10 years ago was a 1/2 ton Ram. The payload was easily maxed out with the particular configuration of that truck. After a few years and with the kids growing up I purchased a 2013 Suburban 1/2 ton. This Suburban had fairly respectable towing capacity but payload really suffered when we had all 7 seats being utilized and then having a couple of loaded coolers in the back. A few years ago I decided to go the 3/4 ton route and purchased a 2017 Silverado HD gasser and haven’t looked back. Hauling my 8000 # bumper pull without stressing about being overloaded really puts me at ease and driving is much more enjoyable. I wish 10 years ago I had the knowledge about towing that I have now.
I was in the exact same boat as you. I pulled with a 1/2 ton ram and although it did the job I was tired of stressing while pulling my camper. I bought a 2500HD gmc 8.1L with the Allison trans. Man!!! What a difference and I enjoy pulling my camper now.
@@scottburns4515
What is a 8.1L...V8 or V10?
@@Sig721Tau 8.1L (496ci) vortec is a V8. From 2001-06 they come with a Allison 5sp and 6sp. Same trans behind a duramax.
This was very helpful explaining what a customer needs to consider when purchasing a truck to tow a trailer. Excellent!
Thank you so much for this video. Very unbiased and informative. I “accidentally” got a F350 diesel super duty which was more than I needed but I love it and I am excited to know I can pretty much go in whatever direction I want when time comes to update my travel trailer.
I put some timbrens on the rear of my F-150 and it was night and day difference in towing my 9,000lb travel trailer. They are great!!
3.5 or 2.7? Trim?
Factor in the experience and ability of the driver(s).
Yea when it gets windy and you are feeling the truck shift a bit, best time to slow down so you have more traction.
No. Worst case scenario you’re going to be at the limits of your vehicle not your brain.
This video is very informative and exactly what people need to know about trucks and their associated towing capacity. Well done!!
What I got out of this, more options in the truck, less trailer weight. Gotta stick to small runaway campers and getting used to porta potty. Thank you for sharing and be safe.
I got a 1/2 ton for my 4700 pound trailer. Works great and it didn't break the bank.
Must be used bc a new half tons 60k
@@kylejohnson3892 what does 60k have anything to do with him buying a truck? And why would it have to be used? Do you know this person and how much they have in their bank if they are able to buy a new truck or not?
I really like all the truck videos made me sit with paper and pencil and figure what truck I really need to pull the camper my family wants being new to campers it really helps to have videos like this
Make sure you are checking the tow capacity. In my ignorance, i thought my F-150 could tow 10,100 lbs, Not even close. I didn't realize i didn't have a tow package and only a class 4 hitch. This dropped my capacity down to 6000 lbs. We were about a day away from buying a trailer that was 6500 lbs. The dealer didn't bother asking, they don't care, they just want the sale. We ended up with a much more better option of 4400 lbs. Thank god i was questioning my capacity so much, i would have been stuck. I have a 2023 F-150 XL. Ask the dealer, they will help, ours did.
OUTSTANDINGLY presented valuable information. Thank you.
This video has been very informative. Been following you while I make my decision to purchase a travel trailer. Thanks for your unbiased reviews and information.
Answered so many questions for me as I contemplate towable RVs. Great video.
I like the video alot. A good rule of thumb is to not let the Gross combined weight to exceed 75% of the GCWR. Numbers are calculated at standard day sea level conditions. Always good to keep sufficient margin, which is what I liked about this video..
I wish someone would put a class together to explain all this to dealerships. It should be required training. I always ask people at the dealers for the payload sticker and they always look at me like I'm crazy.
Good tip, I'm hoping an RV dealer can give me better idea of trucks to match an RV I may be interested in.
Also the hitch makes all the difference. I use Equalizer Hitch and it’s awesome
Ha. Watched your video about 1/2 T travel trailers and you talked just about trailers. I commented that you need to spend a moment to talk trucks... well here you are! Nicely done.
Mostly from viewing your videos and taking stock of what I had, I bought a 2021 XLT F-250 SuperDuty with the Camper Package yesterday. What a huge difference from my previous 2018 Lariat F-150. Now I'll be getting a Weigh Safe WD Hitch to handle the upcoming travel trailer we are in the process of purchasing. Thanks for keying me on how NOT to skirt weight capacities on payload and towing. I was at almost 90% on the F-150.
Good info. Your video along with comments from people in my circle impressed upon me about the limitations of my Ram 1500 which still bottomed out even after replacing the rear springs with two levels stiffer. As well, I was concerned with how insurance companies will not cover you should an incident happen (when you’re over limits). I ended up upgrading to a Chevy 2500 LT 4x4 (6.6L gas) and feel so much more secure especially with it having a 3300 lbs payload capacity (1500 more than the Ram I recently sold). Not looking back; looking forward, securely.
How does the 6.6 gas compare when towing up hills to your hemi 1500?
@@weezer648 The hemi was fine. It’s a good engine design in my experience. The 6.6L is simply a stronger engine and seems to take on the same task with less required effort. Now, the structure of my 3/4 ton feels so much more secure and capable and the rear hardly squats (maybe 1/2”; not even close to bottoming out).
@@weezer648 Hi Jeff, now that it’s been one year since I bought my Chevy 2500HD which is also a Double Cab, I love it. It’s been fully reliable and secure feeling. I also have the AutoTrac option which is great for conditions such as winter roads (AWD engages when there is slip). I recall that GM/Chevy is the only one to provide an AWD system in an HD truck.
Thanks again for messaging me back the other day. We really appreciate what you do.
I
Ij
Fantastic info, tired of people and fake news. Thanks so much!
All the new Chevy 2500 Diesel trucks have a GVWR in the 11k range. The one I almost bought had a payload of 3300 lbs. They are really a whole new class of vehicle now.
Just bought 2020 2500HD chevy gas and have 3600lbs payload and 14,500 towing....it is stiffer than 1500 for sure
I got sucked into that “this half ton will easily pull this trailer” sales pitch, but quickly found out that the payload ran out immediately. I have now settled on a one ton srw truck and no longer have to white-knuckle it on the highway. Too soon old, too late smart.
So
Very helpful. We are planning on getting a truck snd travel
Trailer in the near future. This video was just what we needed to hear. Thank you.
We need more people like this to educate people! I saw a ram 1500 on its roof last weekend near Austin TX on 130, cause he was doing 85mph (85 is the speed limit there) and had too much trailer for his truck.
Very nicely explained - hopefully saves some folks some headaches.
Note: There is a new(ish) ISO / ASME standard for payload numbers - these allow for the passengers ( per seat belt) and other items already discounted and are much more apples to apples when comparing. I know Ford and Toyota adhere to it, I'm sure that by now GM and Ram must as well ( but I don't know for sure...) it makes it easier when reading the numbers since it takes out the variables ( to an extent) for cab config ....
Full Disclosure:
We tow a KODIAK 291RESL ... 32 foot ball to bumper TT with GVWR of 8800#..Curb weight of 6500# - we never tow full, so call it 7500# average tow load. WE were towing it with a 2009 F150 with the 7200# GVWR option, door sticker was about 1250# and 9200# tow rating ( have to deduct 500# off the chart's max tow of 9700# and max GCVWR with the 18 or 20" wheels on this year, and it had the 18") if I recall. Needless to say, I was more or less doing a weight and balance calculation with every loadout and we won't discuss what the real numbers may have been since I never managed to hit scales with it. It worked. I upgraded to the Load Range E tires when I bought it for the added towing stability etc ( you have to find your own empty tire pressures for driving around or else you have the equivalent of a truck with no springs at all in the back as the tires have no give when at towing pressure and no load in the bed - I was at 62 Front, 50 rear EMPTY TRUCK - 64 front 75 rear - TOWING, rear tires just had a nice foot print and stayed very cool etc... probably could have done 70 ... these are the same tires you find on the 3/4 and 1 ton truck by the way), and eventually did end up adding air springs to it to regain the full empty ride height - this was needed to avoid that "light" front end ( yes, I know, air bags don't handle Weight Dist - I had that covered in the hitch ) This is due to that item mentioned about the softer suspension on the 1/2 ton ... oddly enough, realigning the driveline as a side benefit made it tow "easier" and the mileage went up a twitch and the RPM stabilized ( stopped hunting the 4th / 5th gear under load, and even enjoyed time in 6th more often than not while at 62 - 65 mph), or at least was able to be maintained ... this is over the same 1000 miles of highway which included crossing the Appalachians in each config - so apples to apples. . Most noticeable was the suspension authority on bumps ( due to returning full travel to it) and the front end authority over transitions ( bridge expansion joints in the rain for example ) CAUTION: if you use airbags in this way, they WILL NOT INCREASE your payload #'s, they are only there in this config to restore the suspension travel by transferring the load off the primary springs... and yeah, I was the geek with the tape measure checking that fender height off the ground - no shame in my game. With the full suspension authority returned, towing was again "stress free"...
Okay, all that insanity said - bottom line - if you know how to drive a trailer ( let's just say Granny might start laying down the smack talk) you can do this safely...I was given many opportunities to deal with the road idiots and I can say that I've not a scratch in the paint to show for it.
Today: My F350 SRW is sitting in the yard with 3,000 miles on it waiting for me to decide on hitch equipment. Mine has the 11,300# GVWR which, in the 6.2L gasser has the highest starting payload ( 4600#) and tow (12,300#) for the config ... I've graduated to the " Load and Go" club, and I'm not unhappy about it at all.
You can tow a larg(er) trailer with a lighter truck safely - IF - you are careful on the entire cofiguration and then you do not overdrive the rig - can't tell you how many times I'd see 1/2 ton trucks blow my doors off with a 5th wheel on them, or a trailer like mine but the bed packed with a crew cab and family of 4 in there plus the dog....sure, the new ones will go - they have the power ( my '09 1/2 ton had a 5.4L, the '19 1 ton has a 6.2L - that's only 0.8L more "power" ) but they don't have the frame, brakes, stability, or just plain "bigness" to deal with all of that AND aggressive driving....if those other trailers started throwing their weight around those 1/2 tons would not be able to deal as they were loaded and driven.
Know your limits - stay away from them - enjoy your time on the road ( and if you can't then change the limits - go bigger (truck) or stay home) - I went bigger truck 'cuz I ain't stayin' home!
Let the hating commence!!
I drive a 2019 Ford ranger. My rule of thumb that I go by is I take my towing capacity from the truck manual or if it's on the door and X it by %80. That's the max I will tow so I have room. I tow a 2020 geo pro 20bhs loaded weighs under 4500 when the tow rating of my truck is 7,500 pounds leaves me room for cargo in my truck
Michael Brandt my approach is the same with my Ranger. Do you get people telling you the truck can’t handle that size/weight?
@@micheles4160 not often but I usually say. "Okay so my truck can't tow this cause of size and weight. But a SUV that's smaller then my truck can?"
I’ve got the new 2019 Ranger Lariat FX4 as well and I constantly get people saying it can’t handle weight/size until I show them the info and then their jaws drop to the ground. I’ve been looking at 5,000-6,000lbs (don’t have to worry about cargo....one person it’s easy lol), and about 20-24ft length. Do you like the Geo Pro? I’m assuming the “bhs” means bunks? Any cons on it yet for you? How does the Ranger handle for you?
@@vmblack68 I haven't had the chance to pull it out yet as it's still winter in Canada but hopefully in may I'll be able to pull it out
Great discussion and expert presentation. I wish I had come across this video earlier. Really well done. Thank you!!
I really love my 2017 F150 2.7L STX combined with a 2017 GEO Pro 16ft 3000LB trailer. 13-14mpg tow on flat surface, and 10mpg in hills.
My 2020 F150 has a max tow package of 13,200lbs. I bought a trailer that has a dry gvw of 7,000lbs....pulls it no sweat!
Thanks for the informative video. I have a Chevy Colorado with the V6 and am looking forward to buying a modest travel trailer in the next few years. The 3500-4000# range seems to be the sweet spot from what I've been reading, especially if used with the anti-sway hitch.
I have a gmc canyon diesel.
i tow a 25 feet kz outdoorsman with it. 7000lbs gvwr.
Empty it weighs 4700lbs. Loaded with water, around 6000lbs. I use a reese straight line hitch and it tows it nooo problems. Hills, wind, big rig. In high winds situation you can feel the trailer a little but it's nothing to worry you.
Engine has plenty of torque, can keep 55mph in 95% on hills i encountered. gets 16L/100km when i'm not using the cruise control, going 100km/h.
Those trucks are basically half ton trucks. When you look at the payload numbers, there is only like 100-200 lbs of difference in payload. sometimes they even have more payload than those fully optioned half ton.
Using the right hitch makes all the difference, make sure it is properly installed and configured too.
I have Chevy Colorado and it just me looking for one around 3500 4000 myself
First off that you for the education related to properly matching the capabilities of your truck with your expectations for a RV. An appropriate case in point, last year I purchased the new 2019 RAM 2500 Laramie version, crew cab, shot bed with the Cummins diesel. For anyone that has not seen one of these, they are a BEAST. It’s a big, beautiful truck, everything about it is big, 6k axles, 10k gvwr, power to spare. It makes our 07 RAM 2500 crew cab look like a compact truck. Only problem, a 2075 lbs payload capacity. So I got everything I wanted other than the capability to pull a reasonably sized 5th wheel. Now if you run the numbers, buy the time you add the 5th wheel hitch, add 2 passengers, and some gear in the truck, you are down to around a 1500 lbs payload. There are very few 5th wheels to include the so called half ton sized 5th wheels that on paper I could pull with this truck. My bad. Now from a practical standpoint, I will get probably this year one of the smaller half ton 5th wheels on the market and if I am a couple of hundred pounds over the payload I’m not going to lose sleep over it, but it’s easy to see how poor purchasing choices can be made, even by people like me that are not new to RV’s and camping.
Made the exact same mistake on the same truck. Mine is 1950Lbs. Pin weight on my trailer is 1600lbs. Going to go to a F250 with the 7.3 gas engine. I factory ordered the Ram and will do the same with 5he Ford. So you don't know exactly the payload capacity until the truck is delivered. I have a very good idea by checking the ones they have on the lot, so it should be within 100-150 pounds of those.
Exactly. You don’t know for sure till you open the door and check the sticker. My exact same truck without the diesel and a lower trim is over 3k payload. Going to keep what I got. I really like the Ram.
The new GM 2500s have 11350 GVWR and have payloads around 3000 to 3300 depending on trim level. For raised their GVWR to 10800 for the 2020 F-250s pushing their cargo
To around 2800. So it seems that these 3/4 trucks have payload capacities that were the standard for the 1 tons just last year.
Thank you kindly for this. My Silverado 1/2 ton 4 wheel extended cab basic rig tows my Baja Jayco 15 ft trailer like a dream.
I'm sure so. Sounds like a pretty light trailer.
This was so perfectly and efficiently explained, thank you. You're very well spoken
My numbers. Trailer 2016 35 Ft. Rockwood Windjammer 7580 lbs. Dry WT. Loaded with gear water, washer dryer combo, etc. CAT# 8347 Lbs. Tow Vehicle 2017 RAM 2500 LWB SRW 6.4 HEMI rear axle Rating 3.73 Trans. 66RFE GVWR 10K Lbs. Payload 3480 Lbs. Curb WT. 6520 Lbs. Max Trailer WT. 13,010K Lbs. GCWR 19,530 Lbs.
I’m in central Texas and many people in Texas drive 4x4 or AWD and never leave the pavement. Snow what is that? Moreover 4x4 & AWD require more maintenance, use more gas and cost more to fix as they age. Most people can get better service going rear wheel drive.
… and then the Great Snowmageddon of 2021 occurred…. A 4X4 makes perfect sense; even in Texas.
@@RoadieWingZZ I stand by my statement that the extra cost and maintenance of AWD and diminished tow capacity, gas mileage is not worth the need. In ACL we had 3 consecutive years not one of bad storms and most of the problems were ice storm roads. Not snow. AWD 4x4 doesn’t help much on ice. People were told to stay home and off the streets.
Wait till you tow and need that extra grip off road
@@marcomandolini86 I tow a boat (own a fleet) to the lake weekly and do not ever tow a boat off road (nor in the snow) as all boat ramps are concrete or road base if not concrete. I also tow MC trailers, utility trailers. Never needed to have a AWD or 4x4 to tow any of them. 4x4 reduces the towing capacity of any rig.
@@RoadieWingZZ Who tows in the snow? We have had four years of record freezes in Central Texas. Not just snow but freezing rain. a 4x4 does not help you on ice. Stay home. Dont drive just like the law says. 4x4 reduces the towing capacity of any rig.
well done. Diesel engines are not as much of a no brainer as ppl think. theres a big tradeoff in weight, maintenance, and initial cost that you have to do the math on and see if its worth it.
What makes all this even more confusing is the different drivetrain options. You can’t really say buy x truck for xx,xxx lbs towing. It would be nice if you could just use the numbers on the truck to guarantee being able to tow a certain weight (1500 truck towing 10,000 lbs, 2500 truck towing 20,000 lbs etc.) however the only answer is really to check the sticker in the door before you buy...
The weight of the vehicle comes more into play when towing enclosed trailers. So you can safely say 4k for a midsize, 7k for a half ton, 12-13k for a srw hd and the sky's the limit for duallys. This is regardless of engine unless your engine is rated for less than the average
With modern pickup trucks, numbers on the sticker on the inside of the door pretty much tell the whole story. Manufacturers are pretty good at giving the accurate data; and they usually take into account the type of engine, transmission, gear ratios, transaxle and axle.
@@MickPsyphon GM literally puts their own sticker on each truck that is vin specific for payload and towing
@@james2042
RAM is doing that to; and I would be surprised if Ford wasn't already doing it.
Mick Psyphon only GM is doing the tow rating sticker. At lat year’s Texas State Fair, I looked for it on all brands of trucks and it was only on GMCs and Chevies.
My rule of thumb is 75% of max tow capacity for flat land and 50% in the mountains. Thanks for sharing.
Chevy is very good about listing the payload and towing capacity on the sticker inside the driver side door. You tend to have to go online to figure Fords numbers. Airbags or Sumo springs can take some of the stress off of the rear suspension though they don’t increase payload. Do you find a dually as a daily driver to be a problem? For full timers it’s often their only vehicle.
We have over 20 Ford fleet trucks from 150-550 and they all have door tags. Pretty sure it’s on there by law
@@TheDks300 all vehicles have door tags listing the vehicle curb weight, GVWR, and payload. This is required by law. GM also includes max vehicle tow rating which is not required. I believe with Ford you need to go online to find your vehicles max tow rating. It really varies from truck to truck depending on how it’s equipped.
Proud of that video was very good and I'm from Corpus
Thanks Brother! I appreciate your time putting this together
I’ve been asking this question last few weeks. I plan on buying a new truck sometime this year, I hope to also get a camper. The size of each is a question that need to be answered..
Find the trailer you like and then find the truck you need. Or just buy the 1-ton and call it good lol. If over 12k or consistent towing, look at diesel. Under 12k, go gas.
This is one of your best videos. I was surprised when I special ordered my 2017 RAM SRW 3500 Limited, as the dealer told me my towing capacity was at a mere 16,800 pounds. I have nearly every option on my truck, and as such opted for the 3500 over the 2500. My 5th wheel comes in at 13,500 fully loaded, so I wanted the extra ceiling space when it comes to capacity.
I know this is an older video but I wish I’d seen it before my last truck and trailer set up. While the numbers worked on paper, I regularly wished I had more truck. Our current 5th wheel is within spec of a 3/4 ton but I stepped up to a 350 SRW diesel and appreciate the extra margin every time I tow. Better to be over trucked than under trucked or just trucked
Excellent break down of trucks & capability. Well done!
1/2 ton I'm rolling wit 07 avalanche. Let's go.
5:48 we have that exact truck, same color, RST, rims etc. With the 6.2L V8, and we tow a 2019 palomino puma 31bhss (Travel trailer), and it tows perfectly, 0 sway, all that. But no, we aren’t towing with a standard hitch mount, standard hitch, standard sway bars, standard rear suspension, etc. We did a little test, and were able to reach 90mph with NO SWAY. It’s a pretty capable truck. No, I don’t recommend you tow a 8,700 lb GVWR travel trailer with stock specs.
Edit: we have been camping for 8 years, so we aren’t new to this stuff
This was an informative video. I'm new to hard shell camping. I called my Toyota dealership, gave my VIN # and asked what was my towing capacity. They came back with 6000. I cut that in half for my older 4x4 toy. We choose a tear drop with a dry weight of 1900 and total of 3000lb. I doubt that we will ever choose an RV over 6000lbs. I like the 21' larger tear drops. I was hoping a 4x4 half ton, like a Silverado, would work with a sway bar. Thank you. ~ Diane
You shouldn't have any problems with something that small and light. Something people should consider when purchasing RVs is the aerodynamics of the camper. It's not just a weight issue, but how the camper "cuts" through the air!
Thanks for the video. The information provided bolstered what I was trying to explain to my wife. Go big or not at all.
Super helpful. I’m wanting to get a 5th wheel RV in the future and seems like for the safety and control of a larger trailer the dulley is the way to go
Great video. Information dense and well-paced. Thank you.
I too, wouldn't want to tow an RV with a midsized pickup. However, I would tow a travel trailer with one. Lol. Where I'm from, a lot of guys remove the beds off their trucks to pull a gooseneck trailer for their hotshot business.
Good information. Thanks. I'd like an explanation of what a 1/2, 3/4, and 1 ton truck means.
1500, 2500, 3500
$, $$, $$$
It means that IN GENERAL, 1/2 ton truck has a payload of 1000 lbs, 1 ton 2000 lbs, etc. but, as explained in the video, the devil is in the details. Always look at the door sticker for actual capacities.
Stole the thoughts right out of my brain, with the exception of geography, if you’re getting into mountains and busy traffic areas, turbo diesel is the only way to go IMO. Over tuck and over power for your task.
10:20, Double Dog UGLY front end, what were they thinking, sheesh
I agree! I also can't stand the asymmetrical wheel openings on the new GMC trucks!
Out Of The Box WoodWorks they weren’t thinking. They were doing what GM does worst, follow terrible trends a missing the point
The aftermarket will make a mint selling replacement grills. That is one ugly front end.
Another idea to understand a particular trucks towing capability...do a copy & paste of the trucks VIN # from the dealers website; then go to an rv dealer site that has a page about towing, find where you can enter a VIN # and you can get capacity for that specific vehicle. Don't guarantee exact numbers as I've seen some variation. But gives you a pretty good idea.
Those colorado really look good!!
I tow an Imagine mke 17 about 4600 pounds dry with a jeep grand cherokee specked at 7200 towing capacity and 1400 cargo. No issues so far
You're at a chevy dealer. They put the payload and towing numbers on a door sticker. Open a door or two to show the differences.
If I'm correct the max payload on the silverado 1 double cab. I know the max tow is a double cab.
Was planning on opening them up, but sometimes not worth the hassle of trying to get all the keys for the specific trucks. Makes filming much more difficult
@@BTBRVReviews Thats fair, maybe just get the keys to 1 or 2 just to highlight the difference between stripped and loaded trucks
@@BTBRVReviews What is your opinion on the new Ram 3500? The high output engine SRW with a long box can haul 25,000 lbs, which is the weight of a luxury toy hauler
I tow a 23' 5000 lbs. TT with my Canyon Denali Diesel with no issues.
My wife and I have a 33' bumper pull RV (~9klb dry, ~800 lb tongue weigh) and we've been pulling it with an '03 Chevy Silverado 1500HD. It works, but doesn't have much extra. I'm retiring this year, and we've decided that we're going to buy a new truck, primarily for towing the RV. I've been debating with myself between a Ford F-150, which is the only 1/2 ton that I'm considering, because of its best-in-class torque (especially with the 3.5l turbo engine) and HP. (F-150 towing/payload are good for a 1/2 ton, but not great), and a 3/4 ton. I think that almost any of the 3/4 will work for us. I don't see us ever going to a 5th wheel, or going longer than 36' bumper-pull. I've watched several of your videos today, and they have certainly helped to solidify in my mind that I want to go 3/4 ton. Thanks for the good, concise coverage of the subject. [liked] [subscribed]
I know you're primarily are taking about RVs but what about cargo trailers? They tend to have drop axles and sit lower than RVs. Would you still limit the maximum towing weight the same?
No one uses a truck to tow a RV. They do, however, tow their travel trailers with a pickup.
@@Sig721Tau I think you'll find that RV is short for Recreational Vehicle which covers all manner of styles including travel trailers but if it makes you feel better I'll be more specific from now on. It still doesn't really pertain to my question though.
What about a 1/2 ton with max towing at 9800. Total weight 15000. And being at 14300 after everything factored in. About 400 left in payload. And 300 left in towing.
To save payload, dont use those have weight distribution hitches and carry most stuff inside the RV. If you towing anything over 10.5K get a F250 or other trucks like that. Dont tow a 12K trailer with an F150, it may donit but its longer to stop and on an emergency occuances.
Quick and nicely comprehensive. Thanks!!
Super great job! I’m glad I found this one. I think I understand your positions on towing better now. Appreciate. You are not the half ton police. Lol. 👍🏼👊🏼
Thank you. I could understand what you were saying and it was very helpful. I know what to look for now when I purchase.
For the midsized you want a longer bed and a shorter cab to tow the best. Then just get the base stuff with 4x4. Don't go a higher trim then the second one. All the power options add weight.
It really does have a lot to do with the trailer and your experience. I own a 2020 F150 Platinum that has about a 1700 lb payload cap., 13,500 towing cap., and 1350 tongue weight cap. I pull an 8600 pound, 40ft. travel trailer with it that has a tongue weight of only 780. I added Airlift 5000 bags to the suspension to alleviate any bottoming out concerns and a Reese WD hitch with friction sway control. I have no issues whatsoever pulling that trailer; she tracks along great, even as high as 70mph in no wind. That sail back there can get a little squirly in winds 30+ mph but I don't generally pull in high winds - I'm never in that big of a hurry. The built in sway control in newer trucks makes the truck feel a little soft sometimes and takes some getting used to the feel. It really does help control the sway down to next to nothing though.
Im gearing up to get a similar spec toy hauler (36 ft, 9000lb, the heartland fuel 287) and cant decide if i want to use a ecoboost f150 / ram1500 or a f250/ram2500 for extra margin of control/saftey. hows that f150 doing for you? i plan to only tow about an hour drive once a week for work.
You'll obviously always get more stability in a 3/4 ton PU than a 1/2 ton. As far as my experience, I have no issues pulling this rig; I just avoid high wind days as stated. I have pulled in high winds,just not going to be a speed limit trip. But that F150 EcoBoost gives me over 13,000 pounds towing capacity which you're not going to match from any other car maker, even in a V8 in most cases.
Thank you for the detailed explanation. This helped me decide if I want to move to a 5th wheel with my 2006 Ford F-350 single wheel diesel
I have an 07 Prius. Can I haul a fifth wheel with it or do I need to upgrade? 🤔
Depends on the diameter of your spare wheel. Kraft macaroni offers a 1" dry wheel that you may be able to haul if you hook your Prius to a 4 cylinder Ford Fusion. I'd go with the Ecoboost to be safe
if you install airbags for the rear you should be fine.
In Europe a vw bug tows a fifth wheel.. you will be fine.. plus you can spin 360 degrees under the king pin.. makes backing a breeze
Get the 1 ton dually prius and youll be fine
Very knowledgeable person.. Great information to know, good job.👍
Nice work sir. I really enjoy your videos! Keep it up!
I started with a beefed up 1/2 ton suburban, went to a 3/4 ton suburban ( both with beefed up 350 cu in engines, then a 1 ton crew cab dually with a 454, then a crew cab dually with a 6.5 deisel now I have an extended cab dually (kids are all grown up and gone) with the 6.6 litre gasser on order in 4x4 ,, more truck than I need for the past 2 trucks but what a dream to tow with,,,, AND the 454 in my old dually did better on fuel than thhe 350 in the 3/4 ton suburban did because it never broke a sweat, never got hot, never could not maintain speed climbing hills with a trailer in tow. Never an issue stopping fast with the big brakes on the one ton.
I have seen more crashes and trucks over heated on side of the road that are under rated for whhat they are being used for.
Since you had to go to Ford anyway, I wish you would have thrown the F450 in the mix as well. It's relatively the same price as the F350's, but with so much more to offer to someone seriously looking into a dedicated tow rig (vs daily driver).
This was very insightful and interesting. Thank you
Very valuable information and thanks for the Corpus Christi scenery. Reminds me when I lived there six years ago.
BTW: what’s your opinion on air bags to level the rear suspension while using a weight distribution hitch?
My question back to you is how much weight is on your rear axle loaded with the trailer ready to travel?
Thank you very much for the extremely informative videos for newbie RVers like ourselves. We have a Wildwood FSX 177BH (GVWR 3900 lbs) and we started by towing it with our Dodge Grand Caravan, that has a max tow weight of 3600 lbs. So essentially we had to tow it dry, limit the tow vehicle to the driver and use a distribution hitch, and even so it was iffy. Then we bought a RAM 1500 and I said to myself “now we can anything”! Not true as the minivan has a higher load weight than the truck, so you still have to crunch the numbers. With your “rule of thumb” towing guidelines it really simplifies things for me.
Buy the biggest truck you can afford! Begin with a 3/4 ton for trailers and start at 1 ton for 5th wheels than go up from there. Factory tow packages are a must!
Knowing that my truck weighs more than my travel trailer makes me very comfortable! Another Great video
2020/21 Silverado and Sierra have 3750 payload now, perfect!
Excellent breakdown helped me a lot thanks.
Thank god I just saw this video
Remember you and your passengers are part of your payload too.
Dam right
And your gas, and the addons on your truck like tool boxes and bumpers.
@@dedalliance1 As far as I understand, the capacity written on the door sticker already includes a full fuel tank.
@@mpd42781 I'm not sure if that's true. Might be manufacture differences but I thought it was all of the fluids except for fuel.
Especially for Americans.
I know semi’s, this I do not know. I understand pulling and handling, I need to learn a lot about pick up trucks.
Excellent video, Josh! I've been doing my homework on the various trucks; their limitations; and how to properly match them up with the proper travel trailer, or 5th wheel trailer. You hit on all the important points!
This video should be mandatory viewing for anyone who wants to purchase a truck/trailer, or anyone new to it. I've seen some dangerous combinations rolling and saying down the highway.
Josh, you're not in my neck of the woods, but if/when the time comes that I make the plunge, you're the first person I'm calling. Of course, I'm building the business case to present to my -boss... er... I mean- wife. 😁
I wonder how much duty I'd pay on an RV. 🤔
I think a lot depends on how the truck is specked out. I had a heavy 3/4 ton Ford regular cab that pulled our trailer average. I then bought a extended cab full bed Ford, but with the 4.8 Triton, which pulled smoothly, but was sadly under-powered. A second silmilar Ford pulled the same. I recently purchased a Dodge half ton, with the 5.7 Hemi, and full trailer package, and can't believe how it pulls. My trailer is probably 6000 pounds dry, maybe 7000 towing, and I am amazed at how well the Dodge pulls it, nothing compared to my Fords. Honestly, as a 20 year Ford hauler, I think I would look at a Dodge again in the future. I can't believe how well this unit pulls.
He said the truck specs matter... more than once!!!!