Lol, nothing wrong with liquid type thread seals, I have used Permatex high performance on hydraulic fittings no issues 10000 PSI rated, better than PTFE actually, the compound doesn't break down like thread tape. 😎
This is a good start, but if there is even ONE 1/4" restriction in your system (hose ID, fittings or air pressure regulator), your system will have no more air flow than a 1/4" system. EVERYTHING must be 3/8" ID for this to provide more air flow than a 1/4" system.
However if you have one, 1/4 inch restriction instead of three, you've definitely gained something. Its no different than having a bunch of 90's in a system. Besides, she remade the connections clear to the end of the hose, then suggested an adapter/ reducer connection for tools that require less flow. All in all, a very useful video..
I actually started out to do this and ran into a couple of issues. The first is the type of connector you've chosen. It's called "Automotive". It seems to be going the way of the dinosaur and is very hard to find. I wasn't using the HF ones that plug into 1/4" tho. The other issue is that a lot of air tools can't use the true 3/8" stuff. They are also very expensive when you do find them. So, until 3/8 high flo becomes more available and cost effective, I decided on 1/4 high flo. For automotive type air tools, I think 3/8" high flo is the "goldilocks" setup, but is currently too expensive and hard to find for me. Thank you for a great video and for sharing.
The T fittings work but a better option these days is the Milton 1/4" high flow V style fittings. The couplers also accept standard I/M plugs. If you need more flow step up to Milton G's. The G's are available in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" NPT. Cheers
I just upgrade all the lines to 1/2" lines with 3/8" MNPT Threads X 3/8" Airflow bore... used alongside 3/8" FNPT Milton Universal M,A,T,V,L Couplers with the 3/8" Airflow Bore. same thing with the plugs 3/8" X 3/8" H or P Style 67-68 CFM... You can also use plugs with 1/4" MNPT that have the 3/8" Airflow bore like you used since a lot of air tools are 1/4" FNPT Thread... Up to you
How big is your air tank what size line comes off of the tank ? Most home air tanks have 1/4 air outlet to the manifold and regulator adding 3/8 fittings is useless to a DIY without a 3/4 outlet on the tank, starting at 1/4 going up to 3/8 in useless .
So if my 60 gallon tank has 3/4" whip hose to 3/4" lines, filters, regulator, all 3/4" in and out... what size connects should I use at the lines? And what's the best size line for air tools, and what's best for an automotive spray gun? Thank you
@@_mylastname if your tank has a 3/4 outlet at the tank and you have 3/4 regulator your going to be fine with a 1/2 inch hose Might be fine with a 3/8 hose and 3/8 hi flow fittings . Air tools need 90 psi air guns use about 35 to 60 psi .
There's another benefit to the rubber air hose a lot of people aren't aware of. It expands more. Why is this a benefit? Well... because... the fitting isn't the only thing that produces airflow. Think about a straw. You blow out a straw and there's a lot of resistance, right? Now, if you make the straw shorter, there's less resistance... but the fitting is the same circumference as it always was. Why is air getting out more freely? That's because of air resistance. There is air resistance caused by several things. One being the surface area produces friction with all matter... even air. Another is that the hose is never straight... causing redirection of air. Another is the cyclone effect increasing the distance the air has to travel (the shortest distance between 2 points is a STRAIGHT line... not a cyclone. So, when your hose is at rest, the air in your hose is pressurized, right? It's all at the same pressure as the tank (unless a regulator adjusts the flow). If you leave it alone for a few seconds, the pressure in all of the closed system that includes the hose... equalizes. So what happens when you start using the air? Well... the tool uses the air, and then the air has to move throughout the hose to replace the air you just used. It takes time to do this, so the air pressure in the end of the hose falls quite a bit. This is why if you have a stubborn bolt, you don't want to lay on the air for the impact. You want to press, release, press, release. Well, when you have a rubber hose that expanded, the air pressure falls less when you start using a tool. Instead of the compressor working to shove air into the hose (which of course is ALSO happenning) the hose also narrows, forcing air out the hose. So basically, when you start to use a tool, the air pressure takes a bit longer to fall to the pressure that your compressor can maintain. That's not going to matter all the time... but when it does, you won't know it. Particularly when using a torque wrench, you need as much torque as you can get when starting to loosen a bolt... and as it starts moving, you need less and less. The rubber hose actually helps regulate your air use in exactly that way.
I run two Campbell 3hp 240v 60gal tanks in tandem, 250ft 1/2 hose a 1/4 whip .The rubber hoses were the choice because of fact they expand, lay flat on the ground. The reason two compressors were hooked together is tofold fix the smaller 3hps motors can be ran on a 35amp breaker where a single 5hp or 7hp needs two to three times breaker you start getting 3phase ,and cost to Campbell housfield were more affordable than a single larger compressor. Two take up a bit of space it is worth it I can run either unit separate or both in tandem to double the crm to 22cfm 120 gallons of tank that back to cost to have that capacity in a single large unit would be very expensive. Both were purchased at lowes on promotional deal for $499 each
Just make an easy adapter if your buddy comes over and wants to use the quarter inch style. You can do it right at the hose end where the tool connects. No need for him to bring his whole hose. Just get a 1/4 In quick connect with a 3/8 1/2 (whatever size you upgraded too) male end with a step down adapter...that way u just use your same hose...plug in the adapter ..and good to go...even get the push button release. One small 1/4 output with quick release button....with the 3/8 (or whatever size male connector of the bigger hose ...boom .. your done....I do the same thing but with reg 1/4 to High flow 1/4. No need to switch out an entire hose from the compressor. Just use what ya got and make the adapter at the end where the tool connects!
This is by far the most convenient option. Now, if you're a Home DIYer and have a much lower output air compressor, use a rubber, larger inside diameter hose (found that my Good Year rubber hose didn't have internal end restrictions as my nylon one did!) I just remove all fittings and screwed my hose directly from the air compressor to my impact. Power output was night and day! Not as practical for multiple tools, but an option :D
Yup. At home in the garage I have a 1/2 hose reel going straight into my air line plumbing on the wall with a V style HF coupler. One less coupler make a big difference. Having no couplers gives you tons of air but isn't very practical😁
1/4" High Flow (or type "V") also work, but the couplings still accept standard 1/4" connectors while giving you a similar flow rate as 3/8 connectors.
Ide say no difference...I experimented wanted to see if I would have more volume so I went from 1/4" 50 ' hose to all 3/8" 25' hose ..Seen no difference at all. I was very surprised. Went back to 1/4".
My impact isn't removing some lug nuts. Could this be the reason? since I'm using 1/4 fittings and hose? I'm just confused. Isn't the connection om the manifold 1/4 anyway?
Correct, however it allows more air to build in the hose and fitting. This is beneficial with smaller tanks as they may take longer to replace the air you use. Try to pulse the impact instead of wailing on the trigger, this gives alot more time for the air to replace.
The question comes to why are you replacing with 3/8 for CFM on air tools. Are the air tools not doing there job as intended with 1/4, what you need to do is run a pressure gauge between the hose and gun than measure the differences of static sitting and doing actual work. If you allow more CFM you also have to increase the pressure in the hose to make use of the CFM It's a larger diameter and the tools exhaust also has to be increased to 3/8 and than there is also a decibel increase if the tool is spinning faster or under more torque. had that with an air ratchet, I got had a guy rebuild it and it had 3x the torque, but it was 3x the noise level, and I could barely control it. and threw under the work bench never used it again. lol Perhaps the Air compressor will kick on more with 3/8 vs 1/4 going through more air and over heat the air compressor. If the air tools were doing the job with 1/4 , than leave it alone, be happy :)
How large is your tank? What size hose and length? If you have a small tank; a Rolair AirKeg can help. Use a 3/8 or 1/2 hose and keep it short; i.e. 25ft. Also, there is the concept of static pressure vs working pressure -- check this first! Create a setup that allows for a temporarily gauge to be inserted between the line and tool and then verify the pressure while the tool is running. i.e. A static pressure of 105PSI might be needed to get 90PSI while the tool is running based on your setup (couplers, hose size, length, etc). Tools are rated at working pressure not static pressure; so figure out what PSI the regulator should be set to; to get 90PSI working pressure.
I think it boils down to what the tool calls for to achieve its maximum potential. If tool calls for 3/8 hoses and fittings then that's what you need. If it calls for 1/4 then upgrading to 3/8 is not going to give the tool increased performance over its rated specs. In other words, if an impact is rated at 500 ft lbs with a 1/4 setup then upgrading to 3/8 is not going to boost this beyond 500.
Hmm...not sure about that. You should check out the Torque Test Channel. They have a video showing the change in performance just by changing the hose size. I use a 1/2" hose with Prevost high flow (European style) couplers to drive my impact wrench. You actually might need the larger connectors to reach the rated performance.
What do you even mean "more air equals more power?" I don't know how to comprehend that. More pressure? More volume? If the former, my tool data sheets specify a working pressure. That pressure does not change with larger ID tubing, and if that pressure is exceeded, tool damage may occur. If the latter, my tools have never been perceptibly restricted by the volume provided by 1/4". Fixing a problem that doesn't exist.
Its the volume of air that changes, not the pressure. Example: you will be able to move more air per minute using a 3/8 instead of a 1/4 inch. Some tools will benefit from the extra flow. Some jobs require the extra flow
Common sense that "upgrading" with larger fittings after an already restricted opening will make absolutely no difference? Or common sense that she should have used teflon on the newer fittings? Or both? Just wondering...
It’s best to use Teflon tape. Be safe everyone.
What’s wrong with liquid Teflon?
@@YOU-vj4fl go for it sir. I’m just going by the manufacturer’s instructions. Thank you and have a good day.
I didn't see any sealant lol
Lol, nothing wrong with liquid type thread seals, I have used Permatex high performance on hydraulic fittings no issues 10000 PSI rated, better than PTFE actually, the compound doesn't break down like thread tape. 😎
This is a good start, but if there is even ONE 1/4" restriction in your system (hose ID, fittings or air pressure regulator), your system will have no more air flow than a 1/4" system. EVERYTHING must be 3/8" ID for this to provide more air flow than a 1/4" system.
However if you have one, 1/4 inch restriction instead of three, you've definitely gained something. Its no different than having a bunch of 90's in a system.
Besides, she remade the connections clear to the end of the hose, then suggested an adapter/ reducer connection for tools that require less flow.
All in all, a very useful video..
Or just throw on 1/4” Type T or V fittings which can flow 35scfm and 40 scfm respectively. No need to change hoses and such….
I actually started out to do this and ran into a couple of issues. The first is the type of connector you've chosen. It's called "Automotive". It seems to be going the way of the dinosaur and is very hard to find. I wasn't using the HF ones that plug into 1/4" tho. The other issue is that a lot of air tools can't use the true 3/8" stuff. They are also very expensive when you do find them. So, until 3/8 high flo becomes more available and cost effective, I decided on 1/4 high flo. For automotive type air tools, I think 3/8" high flo is the "goldilocks" setup, but is currently too expensive and hard to find for me. Thank you for a great video and for sharing.
Teflon tape please.
Yeah, first thing I thought of as well. Then at the end of the video you can hear the leaks from the charged system.
@Live Free ^^^^^^
The T fittings work but a better option these days is the Milton 1/4" high flow V style fittings. The couplers also accept standard I/M plugs. If you need more flow step up to Milton G's. The G's are available in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" NPT. Cheers
I just upgrade all the lines to 1/2" lines with 3/8" MNPT Threads X 3/8" Airflow bore... used alongside 3/8" FNPT Milton Universal M,A,T,V,L Couplers with the 3/8" Airflow Bore. same thing with the plugs 3/8" X 3/8" H or P Style 67-68 CFM...
You can also use plugs with 1/4" MNPT that have the 3/8" Airflow bore like you used since a lot of air tools are 1/4" FNPT Thread... Up to you
Very well shot. Answered all my questions about switching from 1/4 fittings to 3/8. Thank you!
Like the adapter hose connectors
solves my multiple hose connections
How big is your air tank what size line comes off of the tank ? Most home air tanks have 1/4 air outlet to the manifold and regulator adding 3/8 fittings is useless to a DIY without a 3/4 outlet on the tank, starting at 1/4 going up to 3/8 in useless .
So if my 60 gallon tank has 3/4" whip hose to 3/4" lines, filters, regulator, all 3/4" in and out... what size connects should I use at the lines? And what's the best size line for air tools, and what's best for an automotive spray gun? Thank you
@@_mylastname if your tank has a 3/4 outlet at the tank and you have 3/4 regulator your going to be fine with a 1/2 inch hose Might be fine with a 3/8 hose and 3/8 hi flow fittings . Air tools need 90 psi air guns use about 35 to 60 psi .
@@JCcanU thank you for that confirmation.. I'm setting up my airlines this week..I appreciate you sir.
@@_mylastname your welcome
There's another benefit to the rubber air hose a lot of people aren't aware of.
It expands more.
Why is this a benefit?
Well... because... the fitting isn't the only thing that produces airflow.
Think about a straw. You blow out a straw and there's a lot of resistance, right? Now, if you make the straw shorter, there's less resistance... but the fitting is the same circumference as it always was. Why is air getting out more freely?
That's because of air resistance. There is air resistance caused by several things. One being the surface area produces friction with all matter... even air. Another is that the hose is never straight... causing redirection of air. Another is the cyclone effect increasing the distance the air has to travel (the shortest distance between 2 points is a STRAIGHT line... not a cyclone.
So, when your hose is at rest, the air in your hose is pressurized, right? It's all at the same pressure as the tank (unless a regulator adjusts the flow). If you leave it alone for a few seconds, the pressure in all of the closed system that includes the hose... equalizes.
So what happens when you start using the air? Well... the tool uses the air, and then the air has to move throughout the hose to replace the air you just used. It takes time to do this, so the air pressure in the end of the hose falls quite a bit. This is why if you have a stubborn bolt, you don't want to lay on the air for the impact. You want to press, release, press, release.
Well, when you have a rubber hose that expanded, the air pressure falls less when you start using a tool. Instead of the compressor working to shove air into the hose (which of course is ALSO happenning) the hose also narrows, forcing air out the hose.
So basically, when you start to use a tool, the air pressure takes a bit longer to fall to the pressure that your compressor can maintain. That's not going to matter all the time... but when it does, you won't know it. Particularly when using a torque wrench, you need as much torque as you can get when starting to loosen a bolt... and as it starts moving, you need less and less. The rubber hose actually helps regulate your air use in exactly that way.
I run two Campbell 3hp 240v 60gal tanks in tandem, 250ft 1/2 hose a 1/4 whip .The rubber hoses were the choice because of fact they expand, lay flat on the ground. The reason two compressors were hooked together is tofold fix the smaller 3hps motors can be ran on a 35amp breaker where a single 5hp or 7hp needs two to three times breaker you start getting 3phase ,and cost to Campbell housfield were more affordable than a single larger compressor. Two take up a bit of space it is worth it I can run either unit separate or both in tandem to double the crm to 22cfm 120 gallons of tank that back to cost to have that capacity in a single large unit would be very expensive. Both were purchased at lowes on promotional deal for $499 each
That idea is crazy.....but it just may work! You've brought hope to this land once again! They'll sing praises to you for generations to come!!! 😁
Just make an easy adapter if your buddy comes over and wants to use the quarter inch style. You can do it right at the hose end where the tool connects. No need for him to bring his whole hose. Just get a 1/4 In quick connect with a 3/8 1/2 (whatever size you upgraded too) male end with a step down adapter...that way u just use your same hose...plug in the adapter ..and good to go...even get the push button release. One small 1/4 output with quick release button....with the 3/8 (or whatever size male connector of the bigger hose ...boom .. your done....I do the same thing but with reg 1/4 to High flow 1/4. No need to switch out an entire hose from the compressor. Just use what ya got and make the adapter at the end where the tool connects!
This is by far the most convenient option. Now, if you're a Home DIYer and have a much lower output air compressor, use a rubber, larger inside diameter hose (found that my Good Year rubber hose didn't have internal end restrictions as my nylon one did!) I just remove all fittings and screwed my hose directly from the air compressor to my impact. Power output was night and day! Not as practical for multiple tools, but an option :D
Yup. At home in the garage I have a 1/2 hose reel going straight into my air line plumbing on the wall with a V style HF coupler. One less coupler make a big difference. Having no couplers gives you tons of air but isn't very practical😁
Good to have extra capacity air flow but not so good if you have to change a lot of fittings.
1/4" High Flow (or type "V") also work, but the couplings still accept standard 1/4" connectors while giving you a similar flow rate as 3/8 connectors.
So I have the hi flow wondering if I'll notice a big difference by upgrading to 3/8?
Ide say no difference...I experimented wanted to see if I would have more volume so I went from 1/4" 50 ' hose to all 3/8" 25' hose ..Seen no difference at all. I was very surprised. Went back to 1/4".
@@Chilllybob it also has some dependency on tank size and cfm
@@Recker45-70 I totally agree .. but I did get the job done eventually.
I’ve seen folks do this but still used a 1/4” hose….
Simple and to the point. Great demo. 👍
Great video.
My impact isn't removing some lug nuts. Could this be the reason? since I'm using 1/4 fittings and hose?
I'm just confused. Isn't the connection om the manifold 1/4 anyway?
Correct, however it allows more air to build in the hose and fitting. This is beneficial with smaller tanks as they may take longer to replace the air you use. Try to pulse the impact instead of wailing on the trigger, this gives alot more time for the air to replace.
Great use of tape on the threads of your lines and tools.
The question comes to why are you replacing with 3/8 for CFM on air tools. Are the air tools not doing there job as intended with 1/4, what you need to do is run a pressure gauge between the hose and gun than measure the differences of static sitting and doing actual work. If you allow more CFM you also have to increase the pressure in the hose to make use of the CFM It's a larger diameter and the tools exhaust also has to be increased to 3/8 and than there is also a decibel increase if the tool is spinning faster or under more torque. had that with an air ratchet, I got had a guy rebuild it and it had 3x the torque, but it was 3x the noise level, and I could barely control it. and threw under the work bench never used it again. lol
Perhaps the Air compressor will kick on more with 3/8 vs 1/4 going through more air and over heat the air compressor.
If the air tools were doing the job with 1/4 , than leave it alone, be happy :)
02:49 can you write which product was used? Model/Barcode could help..
A before and after comparision of air pressure at the end of hose would have been nice.
No Teflon tape on threads??? Smh...
Thanks Maam
Tighter it is... the better the seal? Also, Teflon tape is good too.
Will 3/8" fast coupler fittings screw on to 1/4" hose end fitting, you are saying?
Hi I just ordered 3/8.. so I don't need to go with 1/2" ?
This high flow fittings are not the same as the Milton high flow fittings
Yup - teflon tape is....I dunno.... so boring?
Just tighten the heck out of it till the fittings crack and then it will give us even more power :)
Didn't work for me. There is a split second where there is definitely more torque, but it falls off fast. Any other tips?
How large is your tank? What size hose and length? If you have a small tank; a Rolair AirKeg can help. Use a 3/8 or 1/2 hose and keep it short; i.e. 25ft. Also, there is the concept of static pressure vs working pressure -- check this first! Create a setup that allows for a temporarily gauge to be inserted between the line and tool and then verify the pressure while the tool is running. i.e. A static pressure of 105PSI might be needed to get 90PSI while the tool is running based on your setup (couplers, hose size, length, etc). Tools are rated at working pressure not static pressure; so figure out what PSI the regulator should be set to; to get 90PSI working pressure.
I think it boils down to what the tool calls for to achieve its maximum potential. If tool calls for 3/8 hoses and fittings then that's what you need. If it calls for 1/4 then upgrading to 3/8 is not going to give the tool increased performance over its rated specs. In other words, if an impact is rated at 500 ft lbs with a 1/4 setup then upgrading to 3/8 is not going to boost this beyond 500.
Hmm...not sure about that. You should check out the Torque Test Channel. They have a video showing the change in performance just by changing the hose size. I use a 1/2" hose with Prevost high flow (European style) couplers to drive my impact wrench. You actually might need the larger connectors to reach the rated performance.
🧐 totally agree about this kind of upgrade but I can't fit a 3/8 connector on a tool with 1/4 thread...? 🤔
Purchase a 3/8 connector (body size) with a 1/4 npt thread. They make the 3/8 size with either a 3/8 npt thread or a 1/4 npt thread
@@007connecticutthank you so much for explaining that I was so confused
@@Biggchad your welcome
Thank you for this video!!!!!!
Clear and simple great video
Should I get these or just Milton high flow fittings
I appreciate this video. Thank you.
No Teflon tape? That is where the seal comes from.
This seems rather pointless since the outlet from the tank is likely 1/4NPT. This will not improve performance at all.
I just completed my upgrade and my airtools love it...thanks
Nice setup.
That was great idea about the home-made adapter, you just made my day😎👍
Egheosa Osahon
Anywhere Headlight Restoration LLC
should pipe sealant
What do you even mean "more air equals more power?" I don't know how to comprehend that. More pressure? More volume? If the former, my tool data sheets specify a working pressure. That pressure does not change with larger ID tubing, and if that pressure is exceeded, tool damage may occur. If the latter, my tools have never been perceptibly restricted by the volume provided by 1/4". Fixing a problem that doesn't exist.
Its the volume of air that changes, not the pressure.
Example: you will be able to move more air per minute using a 3/8 instead of a 1/4 inch.
Some tools will benefit from the extra flow. Some jobs require the extra flow
What about the coupler on the tank that came previously installed at the manufacturer? Anybody know?
You can replace that one too
Clean hands.
No teflon tape.
Woman.
Nuff Said.
What if my compressor has 1/4 fitting on the compressor it self?
That's the funny thing
you didnt put teflon tape it will leak
Thank you
Teflon tape Lady !!!
No teflon? sssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss
First like bro
Thanks, Quick on the draw
Yuck
She has well manicured nails seems like she never gets her fingers dirty. It's like a fat person trying to sell you a diet plan
Anyone that had to watch this should not be using air tools, this is all common sense
I didn't realize it could sound so complex hearing it spoken out loud, it always seemed so easy in my head 😁
Thats like saying anybody who doesn't know something shouldn't be bothered to learn it. That logic doesn't make much sense.
Common sense that "upgrading" with larger fittings after an already restricted opening will make absolutely no difference? Or common sense that she should have used teflon on the newer fittings? Or both? Just wondering...
hi, wich internal diameter are you using for hose and couplers? thanks.
Noooo you need tape to wrap around the threads you obviously don’t know much