How To Resize Connecting Rods, Step By Step Process Explained
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
- In this video I am going to show you an important step in an rebuild process. I will take you step by step and show you how to resize a connecting rod, a critical part of a quality engine rebuild.
- Навчання та стиль
![How To Balance Your Pistons And Connecting Rods [#TECHTALK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1Bqa3v5AfoA/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm a young motor builder watching and passing the tricks for the next ones!
Hi Brian, as always a great deal of important information to anyone rebuilding, or having an engine rebuilt. It is not worth cutting corners. All the details count! Thanks for a great video, and taking time to share your knowledge.
Hello George, I keep putting out videos to help people with their rebuilds but I hear about horror stories every day on badly built engines. Wish I could get more people to watch before they send their engines off for a rebuild.
I enjoyed the show. Learned a lot. Thank you. Ronnie.
Learned something new this video, never thought about rod twist before. Now will check next time I have an engine to go through, thx Brian
Great video, Brian, very informative, knowledge that a machine shop customer must have.
Thanks 👍
2 videos in 1 day. Great info thanks.
Super busy around the shop and I want to get all the important information out there
Thanks again for the great info, not a boring second
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent video. I've never seen these sunnen tools in use; have always just dropped off cores and bought reconditioned rods but never knew what actually happened in the shop.
I remember Hot Rod Magazine had a section called Smokey's Corner where he explained the forces put on rods as the piston was moving through it rotation and how the piston hitting top dead center and then being jerked back down, along with the side load placed on a rod could stretch and bend rods. I was very young when I started reading it and it made me appreciate all the forces an engine's components experience and why everything needs to be thoroughly checked. I know the engines he was talking about were really high performance and the ones you work on may not be but the ones he was working on weren't 75 or 80 years old either. When you spend enough money to have an engine to be rebuilt it makes no sense go short of anything. Thank you for showing all the work you do and explain the why it needs to be done.
I try to put out important engine rebuild information so people don't keep making the same mistakes. the engines that come in the shop these days are a mess weather they were rebuilt 1 day ago or 10 years ago. Seems like people are just throwing them together and running them. The complaint of low oil pressure comes from so many people I don't know what to do. I put out the videos but can't get people to watch them before they make a mistake. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Brian
Good info as always. Thanks Brian.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent, thanks for the great content...again!
Glad you enjoyed it!
excellent video, really appreciate you taking the time to show us ..
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video, thanks for posting this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video👍. I have a set to remann tomorrow, not excited about it lol. Cheers🍻
Very nice video, thanks for sharing this info!
Thanks for watching!
Thankyou for taking the time to educate me
appreciate you watching
Very valuable information thank you
Your absolutely right about reclearancing the rods to the correct fitment
The willys rods always need resizing to get the proper oil clearance and I am hoping people realize this when they have their engines rebuilt.
Every nice mate,,you sure have all the good toys for a great job,, regards Frank
it takes a lot of tools and machines to turn out a perfect engine. Good to hear from you.
Excellent work.. I do rods the same way. Alot of guys like to cut only the rod cap and not the rod.. Good job👍👍
Great video..
Cool, thanks!
Good video
Superb
love the vice pin cap remover. will build one before next build. then they will all come of easy
Been using this home made setup for years and works great. You won't be disappointed to have one in your shop if you do any type of rod work.
As always great video lots of info. Just wondering where’s a good place to purchase the proper wrist pin cap screw
I have the bolts in stock. Contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net if you need them.
Brian
Hope all is well with you!
Great video as always! Could you explain how to position the pins with the piston-rod assembly and what is the torque spec for the bolt in the rod that holds it? Couldn't find that spec in the Mechanics manual. Thanks!
will show how the piston and pin go on in the next video.
Have you ever rebuilt an AMC 304 using components from larger engines to increase the displacement? I read an article that said certain combinations were possible and I was curious if you’ve ever tried it.
I have built a lot of 304, 360, and 401 AMC engines. They were good engines from the factory but when you want a little more power there are a lot of things to do to make them bullet proof. Like all engines you can use many different parts but the main thing to remember is to plan your build properly.
. Brian...
The rod work is especially important like you say. I also think you should explain the difference between rods 1 ,3 and 2, 4.. How the piston needs to be mounted so the piston arrows go to the front of the engine and how the oil squirts should be pointing to which side of the cylinders. Which rods goes in the middle journal of the crankshaft, so it does not bind. All those details.
I will confess; I have made many mistakes mounting rods the wrong way on my jeeps. I have unknowingly forced the rod to fit in the wrong position and the engine will start, heat up and wareout quickly. I messed-up some engines in the pass and I still do not know enough to build these engines correctly. Most of the engines I worked on were previously disassembled and rebuilt incorrectly by others. I copied the way they were assembled and made the same mistakes. Your knowledge on these engines is like the factory. I do not get bored seeing how the engines should be correctly built. I am 60 years old and I rebuild my first Willys engine when I was 13. Now you are showing me what I did wrong. Remarkably interesting.
Juan from PR
Hello Juan, more information about the rods and piston assembly coming in the next video. Thanks for watching.
2 month ago I started restoring 1951 M38 1 week ago I came across 223 Buick v6 dauntless odd fire - this engine is connected to 3speed T90 and D18 with overdrive. The question is what do I need to do to replace the transmission with sm420 and keeping the D18 with over drive . Currently their is small adapter between the v6 bell housing and the T90 . Thank you in advance.
Thank you for another high quality video Brian. I was wondering whether you've had any trouble re-using connecting rod bolts, especially if the engine is known to have been taken apart a few times before (so those bolts have been torqued a few times)? I do have a new set of connecting rod bolts and nuts from one of the popular jeep parts vendors, unfortunately not NOS, as far as I'm aware, so I'm not sure of their quality. For that reason I'm hesitant to use those new bolts and nuts over the originals, but at the same time I am aware that it is not the best practice to re-use fasteners in critical applications. Friendly greetings, Sascha.
Willys connecting rod bolts are not known to be any trouble. I reuse them unless threads are bad or they are damaged from a failure.
@@metalshaperJeep Thank you Brian.
Does resizing include or take into account center to center distance(rod length change) .. Possibly the change is marginal enough to not worry about?
I resized rods years ago. One good practice to employ while honing rods is to flip the rod often when honing to size. This eliminates any potential of a taper growing. Work the center of the mandrel a little more than the outer ends. That will prevent bell mouthing. I saw many rods that that were the right size, but the outer ends of the bore would be 2 to 5 tenths smaller on the outer edge of the rod bore. this is cause by poor honing practices.
Love the video’s I’m doing a Chevy 305 build I lost one of my factory Chevy rod nuts and I ordered a set of s & p reconditioned factory rods can I use one of the nuts off it to put back on my rods so I can install in bore same style nuts and bolt both factory style
How does this effect the chamfer that runs up to the fillet radius on the crank? Or isn't enough taken out to have any issue? Great video and info! 23:51
Does not effect the chamfer at all on the crankshaft.
Now when you check the rods for straightness and necessary tweaking or straightening do you need to have the wrist pin retainer bolts in when straightening the ones that need it
yes the pinch bolt must be installed before trying to straighten.
@@metalshaperJeep ok I thought so I only asked to be certain I know when I was doing dads I had read in the motors manual for Kaiser and willeys that they had mentioned straightening the rods but hadn't mentioned the bolt but in the specs section the had in parenthices do not straighten con rods without putting the piston pin pinch bolts in and tightening the bolt. But in the steps they never mentioned it except that I went back to check specs
Do you ever run a wider stone on the sunnen (doghouse) cap grinder?
no, the standard stone that comes with the machine is all I ever use.
Do you have to run a different size bearing to get proper clearances or will oe spec bearings give the oe spec again after the resizing?
Once the rod is sized back to factory specs the bearing clearance will be perfect again. Just size bearing to your crank, std., .010, .020 etc... and your oil clearance will be correct.
Is it possible to resize a 2.100 rod journal to 2.047 journal size? Also is it possible to resize from say a 2.00 journal size to 2.047 journal size?
Excellent job. I usually get my rods resized but after watching this video I think it will be ALWAYS get my rods resized. I have a question though, how do you maintain correct center to center length when resizing rods? I have heard horror stories of small block Mopars from the 70's being built right from the factory with rods .10 short or more. That would definitely hurt compression.
Rods are usually only .002 to .004" shorter when resized, and that is within most factory tolerances. That small amount will not hurt compression or hurt the engine in any way. If you are building a performance or race engine then of course the best thing would be new rods. For street engines and even mild builds resizing the rods is perfectly acceptable.
@@metalshaperJeep OK, thanks. I didn't know the actual amount the the rod would shrink when resized. And .002 to .004 definitely isn't much.
Sorry if I missed it in the video but what grit were you using on the hone for both the lower and upper rod bearing surfaces?
280 grit
@@metalshaperJeep ok thank you!
Is it possible to resize "crack cap"/ fractured connecting rods??? I have been curious, as it would seem unnecessary to purchase connecting rods, unless they are not fit for use.
Cracked/fractured rods can not be resized. If they are out of spec you will need to buy new rods.
What about the piston pin side?
Pin side usually is never bad unless there is a catastrophic failure. Rod is slotted and bolt pinches pin. Never goes out of size
Brian one thing added to check is weigh each rod for balance. 🙄 .
These rods are all exactly the same. Didn't show it in the video. Will cover it in the next episode.
You need to do your due diligence as a consumer when having machine work done. Rods for instance if your building a performance engine can get pricey when you factor the work the new arp rod bolts installing the pistons weight matching etc. It adds up. Then you look at brand new rods rated for more HP and RPM with ARP bolts and your better off just getting brand new. You bring in a good set of rods and pistons already weight matched and the balancing is cheaper also.
What state are u from, i need a rebuild
connecticut
Angle shaving ?
What is the result of a twisted rod?
Twisted rods are bad to have in your engine. Bearing load, piston out of place and eventual breakage are all things you want to avoid.
Theres a lot of labor to resize rods, which is why its cheaper to buy new rods if you have a popular mass produced motor, I.E small block chevy.
I Wonder conrod bearing bigger izzit better
I know many years ago we had two truely professional machine shops Rose Units and Ellinwoods and neither of them are around anymore
It is sad that so many shops are gone now. I worked with two shops back when I got started. they are both gone now. Same is going to happen when I close up my shop, there just isn't anybody these days that wants to do this kind of work.
@@metalshaperJeep yeah and sadly I started out to get my training in auto industries and I took classes in metal shop and metal fabrication and all three automotive classes and when i graduated no one was hiring and their still not so i have been doing my own auto work for years and have always liked doing my own work.and you sir do an amasing job with jeep motors and transmissions and axles and you sure keep my interest for certain
i do need this machine how much
These machines are still in use all the time and you can easily find one for sale thru an engine machine company or even on Ebay. prices vary depending on each machine so check out a bunch of them before buying .
How do I contact you?
metalshaper@comcast.net
you say early in the vid that some are oversize , how in the world can you expect to cut the rod and cap then hone & they still not be oversize
When a rod is worn oversize it is cut and re honed to the original size. When you cut the cap and rod by .001 to .002 and put it back together it is much smaller. Hone back to original size and it is back to factory specs again. Standard machine shop practice. Draw a circle on a piece of paper and measure it. Then cut it in half and take a slice off each side of the circle. Measure again, if it isn't smaller when cut then maybe check your math.
Old school care, time and dedication.
Thank you for your time and patience and dedication.
Shalom. (Google it).
Awesome.