Thanks for watching everyone. Do yourself a favor and watch the last video I published. That video talks about the steps toward making your fig tree hardier: ua-cam.com/video/jWZTsdf8sHE/v-deo.html - This video demonstrates why that information is important.
I live in zone 6. Planted 6 figs in the ground last year. A few late in the season. 5 are covered and one is not. I’ve checked on one covered one and it’s doing great. The one that’s uncovered is doing remarkably well. Not a sign of cold damage. We’ve had temps below zero for several days in a row. I have yet to check on the other 4.
Very much so❤ and I love how during the winter he's one of the very few still talking about Figs. Some others grow other stuff, and I'm not interested in peas and potatoes.. it's not cost efficient for me to break my back growing veggies cheaper at the farmers market..
Here in Vienna/Austria the last years lowest temperatures correspond to winter hardiness zone: 8b(20/21), 9a(21/22), 8b(22/23), 8b(23/24), 9b(24/25) First frost around December 1st and last frost usually around March 20th. -3.5 Celsius (25,7 F) this winter‘s lowest until now. All my balcony figs are unprotected in their growbags. Give them a shot of Potassium at the end of August for lignification.
I appreciate you talking through these difficulties that growers/cultivators go through. I just don't get the feeling you really know what you're talking about. It seems there are a lot of factors underground that contribute to fig health and tree health in general.
The soil certainly plays a part, but the hormones are the biggest factor influencing a fig trees temperature tolerance. I'd love to hear an alternative rather than, "you don't know what you're talking about." What's the answer then?
You might have mentioned it in the video, sorry if I missed it, but what was the coldest temp you experienced this winter? For me it was -12C (10F) for about 2-3 days. I'm in Norway so I have the advantage and disadvantage of 20 hour days in the summer. It helps to ripen fruit, but the trees also grow excessively in late summer.
RTFB, I just hatched 10 varieties for the 1st time - they are developing swimmingly. Some are leafing out at 2, 3, 4, or 5 different nodes. Is it best practice to allow them to grow untouched, or to reduce the growth to the single most vigorous node? Ultimately I intend to maintain a single-leader shape, but the prospect of experimentation with air layering of the superfluous growth had me curious. -Robert M.A. Bagel Science (Ret.)
Hi Ross, I hope you’re doing well. I recently discovered a fascinating fig tree in Oakdale, Sydney, a mountainous region at about 400 meters above sea level. The tree has massive leaves, approximately a foot by a foot in size, with various shapes, including three-lobed, spade-shaped, and heart-shaped. It also seems to be a prolific fruiter. I documented the find on my UA-cam channel, Super Saiyan Garden, and would love your insight on identifying this mystery fig. Here’s the link to the video: ua-cam.com/video/2ridvAjEP0g/v-deo.htmlsi=ZMOP-PsPgSKUNsj8 I’d really appreciate your thoughts on this. Looking forward to hearing what you think! Best regards, Ahmad Naaman
I'm sorry to hear that. Winter protection is mentioned at 2:48. Pruning is mentioned at 8:34. This video demonstrates and shows the results of how lignification of the branches makes all the difference. After this recent cold spell, I wanted to share the best evidence I've gathered on the subject so growers like you can be more informed. If you want more steps, watch the last video. I also recommend reading my articles or watching other videos. Winter Protection: Fig Tree Winter Protection | Wrapping, Covering & Mulch Rings: The How & Why - ua-cam.com/video/q-QRamngbqk/v-deo.html Q: "Can Fig Trees Survive Cold Weather? & How do you Winterize a Fig Tree?" - ua-cam.com/video/eeRcbWhtvPs/v-deo.htmlsi=xEMBl6J38mlhT_mZ Lessons on Lignification: Fig Trees in Zones 5, 6, & 7: A Masterclass on Hardy Fig Trees in Cold Climates - www.figboss.com/post/fig-tree-hardy Cold-Tolerant Fig Trees | A Hardy Fig Tree starts with the Variety - www.figboss.com/post/a-hardy-fig-tree-starts-with-the-variety Pruning: Figs: Pruning for Smaller, Larger or More Productive Trees - ua-cam.com/video/msTB_cfJJqo/v-deo.html Everbearing Fig Trees: How to Make Fig Trees Produce MORE Fruit - CONTINUOUS PRODUCTION - ua-cam.com/video/2OaUjfj3Tr8/v-deo.html How to Prune OVERGROWN & TALL Fig Trees - ua-cam.com/video/X-dRR95NIrg/v-deo.html Pruning Fig Trees | How Much & Keeping Them Small - www.figboss.com/post/a-comprehensive-guide-to-pruning-fig-trees-in-containers-large-in-ground-trees-young-trees-old It's all there. You just have to look.
I had an experience on dieback to the ground with my Chicago hardy fig. My fig tree dieback was exceptional because I planted the figs on the ground the first year without any winter protection. The size of the branch was the smallest fingertip on that Chicago hardy. The weather was the coldest temp of the recent year, -18c like this year for days. I don't see any temp lower than -18c, and it's still record low. I protected my other figs, like LDA, Campaniere, and RDB, as much as possible in their first year, mulched them, covered them with a tarp, etc. Not every fig will survive under this low temp due to their gens. The whole point is to find a way to grow fig in zone 6a/6b. The Chicago Hardy is more or less like a fail-safe for me. I heard the Neom 600M can survive at a lower temperature than Chicago hardy. Well, I don't have a lot of space anyway. I can only plant one or two figs without shade.
I have a question on a fig variety, is "Texas Blue Giant" the same as the standard California brown turkey or is it a distinct variety. I see some who say they are the same, some who say it is different.
@@RossRaddiit’s a Celeste? Are you sure because my Texas Blue Giant is bigger than the figs from my Celeste. Plus my Celeste taste better then the Texas Blue Giant.
I'm having a problem finding something actionable in your video. You're all over the place. In this video, you're trying to lump all figs into "lignification" where the real difference is the variety of the fig all things equal. That's what parsing the video left me with. There's no need to "I'd argue that..." if you show this video (differently), by variety, at time of bud break as evidence to support your conclusions. The green buds will be obvious on the branches and where on those branches, then you could compare Smith, Ronde de Bordeaux, and Hardy Chicago giving a run-down on the temps those trees experienced and for how long they experienced it. You talked about hormones, pruning back, burying, and much more, how they're similar in some ways yet different from each another. Doesn't fit the video subject well. Content is too busy. I'm looking to for things like: Should bury all my fig branches, just certain trees, and which trees can be cut back to survive and yet still produce well. You touched on these topics some, but too busy. Looks like you're thinking on the fly and changing directions (topically). My suggestion is more succinct showing evidence. I know that you're likely "it's time for a video" and you speak extemporaneously, and I value your opinion, but more focused with evidence please. I want to hear you speak. I want to learn from your experience so take it from that perspective, not a bitch session. In fact, delete my comment after reading if you like. I'm not posturing.
The whole point of the video is to add more evidence to the theory that lignification is more important than choosing a hardier fig variety. Yes, if the lignification was equal, hardier varieties will prevail. The problem is... The lignification is never equal. Keep in mind that all fig trees lignify much worse than they should when grown outside of their native growing area or when pruned too much. The same thing happens to persimmon trees. Therefore, you may never realize the genetic potential of your fig variety. The last 3ish years I've been writing or making videos about how to solve this problem. Bending trees (protecting them), learning how to prune them, how that relates to hormones, and everything else in this video is the secret sauce to having properly lignified fig trees. That's certain. The question every fig grower in zone 5, 6, & 7 should want to know is, "how hardy are fig trees exactly?" Can they be pushed past their limit of 0F? The truth is, no one really knows. New fig growers see a range of zones listed in the nursery catalog with no context whatsoever. It should come with a warning about lignification. At the end of the video is an actionable item--protect your fig trees for one to two seasons based on how lignified it is. Understand how the hormones work in relation to pruning and that's all that needs action.
@@RossRaddi This comment is different than my original point...mostly. This is correct: "The question every fig grower in zone 5, 6, & 7 should want to know is how hardy are fig trees exactly?" But, it's not ALL figs, it's specific figs which is why the very common question, "What figs grow well in my zone? (or area)? Variety genetics will ensure most figs will behave the same in the same environment MOST of the time. It's about variety. How you treat that variety can increase or decrease it's success. From this knowledge, one can test the same variety against the same variety and extrapolate possible differences based on how you treat it OR, more likely, test one variety against another treated the same which will certainly provide more insight on what does best in each environment. Grouping dissimilar genetics is a stretch. Fig and tomato have lots of similarities in concept. Tomato is my bailiwick. So, I understand the principles. There are generalities in tomato as a whole, and there are specifics to a variety. In the tomato world, we can expect a variety to behave similarly in the same environment, but differently in different environments. So, we tend to concentrate on varieties that grow well in our own environments, then trial or protect varieties wanted, but are more difficult to survive in our environment. This is what gardeners want to know: "How can I produce tomatoes (or figs) where I am?" usually followed by "...the best." Variety is the most important factor. If you have 10 Chicago Hardy's next to each other, grown the same and same age, then treated the same, most will perform the same. That's the genetics of Chicago Hardy. Black Madeira will not perform the same without manipulation. Also, figs are clones, so their genetics will not change UNLESS there is a mutation. If the mutation occurs, it's a different variety--a different fig. If a "sport" or so-called "strain" happens, it's within the capability of the clone and affected by other things within the environment. Proof is how regular the "sport" or "strain" happens. Figs are also hybrids so the diversity in the genes exists, but are masked by the more dominant genes. Somewhat rare gene expression can happen at times due to the environment's affect on the hormones. Chicago Hardy is known as cold-hardy. Lots of non-manipulated evidence. One starts from that basic concept of variety genetics. I would not encourage people to consider treating Black Madeira like a Chicago Hardy. After all that, one can get into the weeds and geek out on it. Most don't care. I am a definite tomato geek for example. So, yes, I can put up shade cloth, I can bottom-water, I can add silica to the fertigation to strengthen cell walls, and I can grow my tomato lines in a greenhouse. It's manipulation, and a lot of work, but it will still not mean that Red Snapper will behave like Brandywine. It's genetics of each variety, not a new discovery of the tomato's genetic potential. It's pampering. With such reasoning, one can get a greenhouse and environmentally control temps, to "realize more potential" which is true UNTIL the power goes out. But, back to my original point and comment. Everything above is more stuff, based on your comment, not related to the original point which is more about structure. You're all over the place and it's hard to follow. Also, add evidence to make your points. And, now, remain open to feedback and learning. You took my critique as just being mean-spirited because there was no conciliary comment mixed in.
Thanks for watching everyone. Do yourself a favor and watch the last video I published. That video talks about the steps toward making your fig tree hardier: ua-cam.com/video/jWZTsdf8sHE/v-deo.html - This video demonstrates why that information is important.
I live in zone 6. Planted 6 figs in the ground last year. A few late in the season. 5 are covered and one is not. I’ve checked on one covered one and it’s doing great. The one that’s uncovered is doing remarkably well. Not a sign of cold damage. We’ve had temps below zero for several days in a row.
I have yet to check on the other 4.
Informative
Very much so❤ and I love how during the winter he's one of the very few still talking about Figs. Some others grow other stuff, and I'm not interested in peas and potatoes.. it's not cost efficient for me to break my back growing veggies cheaper at the farmers market..
My fig trees were still making green figs in mid December in Louisiana. The 13 degree January freeze pruned the hell out of them.
Very interesting 😮
Here in Vienna/Austria the last years lowest temperatures correspond to winter hardiness zone: 8b(20/21), 9a(21/22), 8b(22/23), 8b(23/24), 9b(24/25)
First frost around December 1st and last frost usually around March 20th. -3.5 Celsius (25,7 F) this winter‘s lowest until now. All my balcony figs are unprotected in their growbags. Give them a shot of Potassium at the end of August for lignification.
I have young adriatic fig tree di they make fruit on one year branch or in current year that grow in summer and make fruit
I appreciate you talking through these difficulties that growers/cultivators go through. I just don't get the feeling you really know what you're talking about. It seems there are a lot of factors underground that contribute to fig health and tree health in general.
The soil certainly plays a part, but the hormones are the biggest factor influencing a fig trees temperature tolerance. I'd love to hear an alternative rather than, "you don't know what you're talking about." What's the answer then?
You might have mentioned it in the video, sorry if I missed it, but what was the coldest temp you experienced this winter? For me it was -12C (10F) for about 2-3 days. I'm in Norway so I have the advantage and disadvantage of 20 hour days in the summer. It helps to ripen fruit, but the trees also grow excessively in late summer.
4, 5, 6 & 7F for many hours. Each a different night.
RTFB,
I just hatched 10 varieties for the 1st time - they are developing swimmingly. Some are leafing out at 2, 3, 4, or 5 different nodes.
Is it best practice to allow them to grow untouched, or to reduce the growth to the single most vigorous node?
Ultimately I intend to maintain a single-leader shape, but the prospect of experimentation with air layering of the superfluous growth had me curious.
-Robert
M.A. Bagel Science (Ret.)
Hi Ross,
I hope you’re doing well. I recently discovered a fascinating fig tree in Oakdale, Sydney, a mountainous region at about 400 meters above sea level. The tree has massive leaves, approximately a foot by a foot in size, with various shapes, including three-lobed, spade-shaped, and heart-shaped. It also seems to be a prolific fruiter.
I documented the find on my UA-cam channel, Super Saiyan Garden, and would love your insight on identifying this mystery fig. Here’s the link to the video: ua-cam.com/video/2ridvAjEP0g/v-deo.htmlsi=ZMOP-PsPgSKUNsj8
I’d really appreciate your thoughts on this. Looking forward to hearing what you think!
Best regards,
Ahmad Naaman
how about keeping them in pot for a few years during winter then plant them🤔
That can help.
unclear. number the procedures you recommend. makes it clearer for you and then for us. all the best
I'm sorry to hear that. Winter protection is mentioned at 2:48. Pruning is mentioned at 8:34. This video demonstrates and shows the results of how lignification of the branches makes all the difference. After this recent cold spell, I wanted to share the best evidence I've gathered on the subject so growers like you can be more informed. If you want more steps, watch the last video. I also recommend reading my articles or watching other videos.
Winter Protection:
Fig Tree Winter Protection | Wrapping, Covering & Mulch Rings: The How & Why - ua-cam.com/video/q-QRamngbqk/v-deo.html
Q: "Can Fig Trees Survive Cold Weather? & How do you Winterize a Fig Tree?" - ua-cam.com/video/eeRcbWhtvPs/v-deo.htmlsi=xEMBl6J38mlhT_mZ
Lessons on Lignification:
Fig Trees in Zones 5, 6, & 7: A Masterclass on Hardy Fig Trees in Cold Climates - www.figboss.com/post/fig-tree-hardy
Cold-Tolerant Fig Trees | A Hardy Fig Tree starts with the Variety - www.figboss.com/post/a-hardy-fig-tree-starts-with-the-variety
Pruning:
Figs: Pruning for Smaller, Larger or More Productive Trees - ua-cam.com/video/msTB_cfJJqo/v-deo.html
Everbearing Fig Trees: How to Make Fig Trees Produce MORE Fruit - CONTINUOUS PRODUCTION - ua-cam.com/video/2OaUjfj3Tr8/v-deo.html
How to Prune OVERGROWN & TALL Fig Trees - ua-cam.com/video/X-dRR95NIrg/v-deo.html
Pruning Fig Trees | How Much & Keeping Them Small - www.figboss.com/post/a-comprehensive-guide-to-pruning-fig-trees-in-containers-large-in-ground-trees-young-trees-old
It's all there. You just have to look.
I had an experience on dieback to the ground with my Chicago hardy fig. My fig tree dieback was exceptional because I planted the figs on the ground the first year without any winter protection. The size of the branch was the smallest fingertip on that Chicago hardy. The weather was the coldest temp of the recent year, -18c like this year for days. I don't see any temp lower than -18c, and it's still record low. I protected my other figs, like LDA, Campaniere, and RDB, as much as possible in their first year, mulched them, covered them with a tarp, etc. Not every fig will survive under this low temp due to their gens. The whole point is to find a way to grow fig in zone 6a/6b. The Chicago Hardy is more or less like a fail-safe for me. I heard the Neom 600M can survive at a lower temperature than Chicago hardy. Well, I don't have a lot of space anyway. I can only plant one or two figs without shade.
When is it too late to take cuttings
When the tree starts to bud. Although, it's never too late.
@ thanks for your reply and your advice.
I have a question on a fig variety, is "Texas Blue Giant" the same as the standard California brown turkey or is it a distinct variety. I see some who say they are the same, some who say it is different.
It's the same. One Texas Blue Giant sold by Bill in Jersey is Celeste. It's mislabeled.
@@RossRaddi Thank you for answer 👍
@@RossRaddiit’s a Celeste? Are you sure because my Texas Blue Giant is bigger than the figs from my Celeste. Plus my Celeste taste better then the Texas Blue Giant.
@ Texas BLue Giant and Celeste are not the same. One source (a grower in NJ) growing Texas Blue Giant is the same as Celeste.
@ Texas BLue Giant and Celeste are not the same. One source (a grower in NJ) growing Texas Blue Giant is the same as Celeste.
😂 I did pinch the first year of the fig tree and also protect them if I could. I'm in zone 6a near 6b
Ross be smokin on that gas
I'm having a problem finding something actionable in your video. You're all over the place. In this video, you're trying to lump all figs into "lignification" where the real difference is the variety of the fig all things equal. That's what parsing the video left me with. There's no need to "I'd argue that..." if you show this video (differently), by variety, at time of bud break as evidence to support your conclusions. The green buds will be obvious on the branches and where on those branches, then you could compare Smith, Ronde de Bordeaux, and Hardy Chicago giving a run-down on the temps those trees experienced and for how long they experienced it. You talked about hormones, pruning back, burying, and much more, how they're similar in some ways yet different from each another. Doesn't fit the video subject well. Content is too busy. I'm looking to for things like: Should bury all my fig branches, just certain trees, and which trees can be cut back to survive and yet still produce well. You touched on these topics some, but too busy. Looks like you're thinking on the fly and changing directions (topically). My suggestion is more succinct showing evidence. I know that you're likely "it's time for a video" and you speak extemporaneously, and I value your opinion, but more focused with evidence please. I want to hear you speak. I want to learn from your experience so take it from that perspective, not a bitch session. In fact, delete my comment after reading if you like. I'm not posturing.
The whole point of the video is to add more evidence to the theory that lignification is more important than choosing a hardier fig variety. Yes, if the lignification was equal, hardier varieties will prevail. The problem is... The lignification is never equal.
Keep in mind that all fig trees lignify much worse than they should when grown outside of their native growing area or when pruned too much. The same thing happens to persimmon trees. Therefore, you may never realize the genetic potential of your fig variety.
The last 3ish years I've been writing or making videos about how to solve this problem. Bending trees (protecting them), learning how to prune them, how that relates to hormones, and everything else in this video is the secret sauce to having properly lignified fig trees. That's certain.
The question every fig grower in zone 5, 6, & 7 should want to know is, "how hardy are fig trees exactly?" Can they be pushed past their limit of 0F? The truth is, no one really knows. New fig growers see a range of zones listed in the nursery catalog with no context whatsoever. It should come with a warning about lignification. At the end of the video is an actionable item--protect your fig trees for one to two seasons based on how lignified it is. Understand how the hormones work in relation to pruning and that's all that needs action.
@@RossRaddi This comment is different than my original point...mostly. This is correct: "The question every fig grower in zone 5, 6, & 7 should want to know is how hardy are fig trees exactly?" But, it's not ALL figs, it's specific figs which is why the very common question, "What figs grow well in my zone? (or area)? Variety genetics will ensure most figs will behave the same in the same environment MOST of the time. It's about variety. How you treat that variety can increase or decrease it's success. From this knowledge, one can test the same variety against the same variety and extrapolate possible differences based on how you treat it OR, more likely, test one variety against another treated the same which will certainly provide more insight on what does best in each environment. Grouping dissimilar genetics is a stretch. Fig and tomato have lots of similarities in concept. Tomato is my bailiwick. So, I understand the principles. There are generalities in tomato as a whole, and there are specifics to a variety. In the tomato world, we can expect a variety to behave similarly in the same environment, but differently in different environments. So, we tend to concentrate on varieties that grow well in our own environments, then trial or protect varieties wanted, but are more difficult to survive in our environment. This is what gardeners want to know: "How can I produce tomatoes (or figs) where I am?" usually followed by "...the best."
Variety is the most important factor. If you have 10 Chicago Hardy's next to each other, grown the same and same age, then treated the same, most will perform the same. That's the genetics of Chicago Hardy. Black Madeira will not perform the same without manipulation. Also, figs are clones, so their genetics will not change UNLESS there is a mutation. If the mutation occurs, it's a different variety--a different fig. If a "sport" or so-called "strain" happens, it's within the capability of the clone and affected by other things within the environment. Proof is how regular the "sport" or "strain" happens. Figs are also hybrids so the diversity in the genes exists, but are masked by the more dominant genes. Somewhat rare gene expression can happen at times due to the environment's affect on the hormones. Chicago Hardy is known as cold-hardy. Lots of non-manipulated evidence. One starts from that basic concept of variety genetics. I would not encourage people to consider treating Black Madeira like a Chicago Hardy. After all that, one can get into the weeds and geek out on it. Most don't care. I am a definite tomato geek for example. So, yes, I can put up shade cloth, I can bottom-water, I can add silica to the fertigation to strengthen cell walls, and I can grow my tomato lines in a greenhouse. It's manipulation, and a lot of work, but it will still not mean that Red Snapper will behave like Brandywine. It's genetics of each variety, not a new discovery of the tomato's genetic potential. It's pampering. With such reasoning, one can get a greenhouse and environmentally control temps, to "realize more potential" which is true UNTIL the power goes out.
But, back to my original point and comment. Everything above is more stuff, based on your comment, not related to the original point which is more about structure. You're all over the place and it's hard to follow. Also, add evidence to make your points. And, now, remain open to feedback and learning. You took my critique as just being mean-spirited because there was no conciliary comment mixed in.
10 minutes in and ive been told the same thing four times. Ugh