Aluminum should not be set in concrete as Aluminum reacts with the alkalis in portland cement producing hydrogen gas, causing corrosion on the aluminum fence posts. I contacted Sakrete and Quitrite and both companies confirmed that aluminum and concrete are incompatible and not to use it on aluminum fence posts, they will eventually corrode. I used Fast2K Foam Deck & post anchor on my aluminum fence posts. Dug down past frost line bell shaped the bottom and installed 8” of fiberglass rebar thru the post near the bottom of each post making a x so the post had legs. No chance the posts will ever pull out of the foam nor will the foam ever come out of the hole with the bottom larger than the top. Posts survived an Illinois winter and didn’t budge. Foam sets up in minutes.
When using a digging or spud bar, USE GLOVES. That heavy bar will tear up your hands, especially if you don't do a lot of manual labor. When applying the hinges and latches, to make sure the self tapping screws don't wander off the point that you want them, use a center punch or small drill bit to have a dimple exactly where you want it so the hardware is exactly where you want it. You can also use a circular saw to cut the fence, just use a metal cutting blade. Put painter's tape over the fence so that the saw won't scratch the paint or finish of your fence.
Depending on how it was installed and how much concrete you can try wiggling the post with some decent force and then use a 2x4 underneath the rail and use it to pry it up.
When you come down the steps @19:19, there is about 5' of open area to get in the pool- is that pool code? Seems like there should be some type of "barrier" to stop kids/animals
Thank you for taking the time to create this video. Quick question though (around 6:23 minutes), you added your first panel to the first and second post. I thought its best to let the concrete set before adding the panels. Thoughts? And does it make a difference if you doing this in colder weather.
Thanks for the question, as long as you pack the concrete with the digging bar you won't need to wait for the water to cure. I prefer to "dry set" the concrete and let the moisture from the ground cure the concrete over time. Also, there's no way to set all the posts before adding panels unless using brackets which are expensive and unnecessary for this.
Good video. I used the Swanson Tool Co PL001M Magnetic Composite Post Level, Yellow, Includes Elastic Loop for Hands-Free Work and 3 Vials for Easy Plumb and Level Reads
Good video only tip I would say is if you are going to rent an auger get it from sunbelt, hertz, ect they offer the one man with the torque bar it is user friendly and can save you from injuring yourself
Awesome video! I’m finding this a couple years after you filmed it. Quick question: At the end, how did you hammer that post deeper to get it level after you already wet poured the concrete? It was still workable after completing the entire fence?
What if the neighbors fence is a foot and half to their side of the lot line and your 2 inches on your side of the lot line. With what do you fill the space between your fence and theirs?
Thanks for a very helpful video! I just finished installing my pool fence and used a lot of your tips. In particular were the ones for the gate. They kept me from messing it up. :)
Yeah the editors didn’t get that part quite right. So after everything is in you’re going to lower any posts that are a little high so you create a nice uniform look. For this I use a sledgehammer and a block of wood to tap down the post.
Hi, I’m currently upgrading the site due to increased traffic. Please send a simple drawing with measurements and your zip code to sales@myfencedirect.com
Great video..thanks for sharing. When you are adding sections, how do you keep each post level and plumb as you are adding the sections. Do you add the section to the post, then add the concrete, level and plumb, and then wait for concrete to set before going on to next section.
Sorry just saw this. You just install the post then attach section. Then set next post and keep going in that order. I personally don’t wet set the concrete. I would dry pack it and let the ground water set the concrete over time.
Are the holes in dirt or are you drilling out concrete? If in dirt, definitely not enough. I'd say at least 2 feet. If in concrete that is fine just make sure to use anchoring cement. See the link below. www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-20-lb-Anchoring-Cement-124520/100318500
Aluminum should not be set in concrete as Aluminum reacts with the alkalis in portland cement producing hydrogen gas, causing corrosion on the aluminum fence posts. I contacted Sakrete and Quitrite and both companies confirmed that aluminum and concrete are incompatible and not to use it on aluminum fence posts, they will eventually corrode. I used Fast2K Foam Deck & post anchor on my aluminum fence posts. Dug down past frost line bell shaped the bottom and installed 8” of fiberglass rebar thru the post near the bottom of each post making a x so the post had legs. No chance the posts will ever pull out of the foam nor will the foam ever come out of the hole with the bottom larger than the top. Posts survived an Illinois winter and didn’t budge. Foam sets up in minutes.
It looks amazing.
Thanks!
When using a digging or spud bar, USE GLOVES. That heavy bar will tear up your hands, especially if you don't do a lot of manual labor.
When applying the hinges and latches, to make sure the self tapping screws don't wander off the point that you want them, use a center punch or small drill bit to have a dimple exactly where you want it so the hardware is exactly where you want it.
You can also use a circular saw to cut the fence, just use a metal cutting blade. Put painter's tape over the fence so that the saw won't scratch the paint or finish of your fence.
100% about the gloves. And good tip about the circular saw!
How would you remove it? We were thinking of removing ours.
Depending on how it was installed and how much concrete you can try wiggling the post with some decent force and then use a 2x4 underneath the rail and use it to pry it up.
Do you have 6’ tall sections? My dog can get over shorter pieces.
I can get them but you're probably looking at 12+ weeks for delivery unfortunately due to the pandemic and getting into peak season for fencing.
If you concrete the posts in, how the hell do you replace a panel if you need to?
You'll have to break the concrete up and basically raise the post up to give you extra clearance.
What's the average price for a project like that ?
It really depends on size. About how many feet and gates did you need?
@@myfencedirect8636 170ft??
@@mrgrind210 you would probably looking at around $3500-$4000 depending on layout
WHERE DO YOU GET THIS KIND OF FENCE?
from my site myfencedirect.com
Literally anywhere that sells fencing. Lowes, Home Depot, Menards etc
how much did you charge them
We worked with the homeowner to shoot this video so it was just cost of materials.
His level is questionable size
My gate has settled after 6 years. How do you adjust the gate so it lines up again?
When you come down the steps @19:19, there is about 5' of open area to get in the pool- is that pool code? Seems like there should be some type of "barrier" to stop kids/animals
The customer was redoing the deck and putting railing in that spot. We just attached a panel for the time being
@@myfencedirect8636 U said it right at the beginning- i was sleeping I guess--geez
Thank you for taking the time to create this video.
Quick question though (around 6:23 minutes), you added your first panel to the first and second post. I thought its best to let the concrete set before adding the panels. Thoughts? And does it make a difference if you doing this in colder weather.
Thanks for the question, as long as you pack the concrete with the digging bar you won't need to wait for the water to cure. I prefer to "dry set" the concrete and let the moisture from the ground cure the concrete over time.
Also, there's no way to set all the posts before adding panels unless using brackets which are expensive and unnecessary for this.
Good video. I used the Swanson Tool Co PL001M Magnetic Composite Post Level, Yellow, Includes Elastic Loop for Hands-Free Work and 3 Vials for Easy Plumb and Level Reads
I've used them but they just seem to take longer than a traditional level. But if it works for you that's all that matters!
Good video only tip I would say is if you are going to rent an auger get it from sunbelt, hertz, ect they offer the one man with the torque bar it is user friendly and can save you from injuring yourself
Great tip! That must be the Little Beaver that you're talking about. Definitely easier than a typical one man auger.
What if you are installing 200ft and the ground slopes downward. Is this type of fence still a good option?
Sorry for the delay. Yes, aluminum is great for this as long as the slope is less than around 7" for every 6'.
I just can’t believe the home owner left that shitty deck work for later, he need it to do it at the same time as pool before the fence went in.
I hear you but everyone's situation is different.
What kind the screws you put?
Where can I get it?
Thanks you vídeo it’s amazing, today I’ll make my first aluminum fence.
Sorry for the delay. Hopefully you found what you needed!
Fantastic! I am gonna do my fence and this is a great video for me! Thank you.
youre welcome!
thanks!
If you're doing a job that big should have used a post digger wouldn't have been so tied, but looks good
The ground really was pretty easy. I looked winded because I don't install much anymore.
do you need to add gravel in the post holes for water drainage before putting in the posts..?
Nope not needed, just concrete and you’re good to go.
@@myfencedirect8636does it not corrode the aluminium within months? ive heard its a no go with ali posts and to never ever use rapid set...
Question: So you can leave the concrete dry in the hole? Or do you add water to the concrete once it is in the hole?
we just do dry. Just have to make sure you pack with the digging bar and you'll be good to go.
Wooder??
when using a crowbar start from the center of your hole and work out to your edges
I like how you put the customer to work--bahahahah
He actually put us to work lol. We just sell the materials. We offered to help in exchange for doing the video.
Great video, very helpful. Thanks for this.
Awesome video! I’m finding this a couple years after you filmed it. Quick question:
At the end, how did you hammer that post deeper to get it level after you already wet poured the concrete? It was still workable after completing the entire fence?
Yep, you can still hit everything down after the fact.
I bought the same set up at Lowe’s
Wish all “how to videos” were this clear and informative, really appreciate you putting this together, thanks!
You’re very welcome!
i read that you shouldnt use concrete with aluminum fencing because itll cause a chemical reaction and erode the aluminum
it's powder coated so its not coming in contact with each other
Where do you guys get the fence from?
We actually build it but it’s taking forever to get the parts in right now.
Great video, thank you for sharing.
You’re welcome!
Finally a video that doesn’t assume I already know everything! Thank you so much. I could probably handle this.
You're welcome Sherry! And yes you definitely can, it's really not hard at all.
What if the neighbors fence is a foot and half to their side of the lot line and your 2 inches on your side of the lot line. With what do you fill the space between your fence and theirs?
I would ask if you can put a post next to theirs but don't concrete anything that's on their property. That way it's easy to remove if need be.
Thanks for a very helpful video! I just finished installing my pool fence and used a lot of your tips. In particular were the ones for the gate. They kept me from messing it up. :)
Sorry for the delay. Glad the video helped! Definitely don't want to be messing them up!
How’s the cap going to go on the latch post.
I just snaps in place.
great video!
thanks!
Great job
thanks!
What is the distance between each hole for that fence?
you're looking at about 72.5" center to center
And you use the concrete the correct way good 👍
Thanks 👍
At 18:50 you said... "Lower the posts"... Could you please elaborate, what you meant by that ?
Yeah the editors didn’t get that part quite right. So after everything is in you’re going to lower any posts that are a little high so you create a nice uniform look.
For this I use a sledgehammer and a block of wood to tap down the post.
@@myfencedirect8636 Thank you for your response and clarifying. Great Video. Good Job.
You got it!
Really Sameer? You know what he meant. You’re THAT GUY.
Thanks you !
No problem!
Great video !
Thanks!
Where is the website to order?.
Hi, I’m currently upgrading the site due to increased traffic.
Please send a simple drawing with measurements and your zip code to sales@myfencedirect.com
Website is up and running
Great video..thanks for sharing. When you are adding sections, how do you keep each post level and plumb as you are adding the sections. Do you add the section to the post, then add the concrete, level and plumb, and then wait for concrete to set before going on to next section.
Sorry just saw this. You just install the post then attach section. Then set next post and keep going in that order.
I personally don’t wet set the concrete. I would dry pack it and let the ground water set the concrete over time.
We are installing 6ft H aluminum fence on top of the concrete around the pool as well. Do you think 6inches is deep enough to hold the posts?
Are the holes in dirt or are you drilling out concrete? If in dirt, definitely not enough. I'd say at least 2 feet. If in concrete that is fine just make sure to use anchoring cement. See the link below.
www.homedepot.com/p/Quikrete-20-lb-Anchoring-Cement-124520/100318500
Doesn't sound enough! Should be around one third the height of the post i.e. two foot holes concreted into the ground.