While it's a common practice for me to unplug my saw when I'm touching the blade, I do make a point to show it on video so that I'm not deemed an "unsafe woodworker." Thank you for watching!
David Shelton , I was actually surprised to see how much joinery he did successfully with a bandsaw. I noticed that the pace of the cut was very smooth and methodical. I'm assuming that, a sharp blade, and decently set guides (although his upper was far away most of the time due to the fence) is the key to success?
Great video and a great fit so far. Thanks for the explanation of the face joining. More than once I've faced one side, then after a break ,accidentally edge joined using the unjointed face. I like your method and it makes good sense. Enjoy your videos, your shop, and your technique and look forward to the next installment.
Very cool. Thanks for the explanation on the face joint process at the beginning. I've always done adjacent edge/face to establish a square corner but I'll give yours a try. Can't wait to see the rest of the build.
Jeff Forbes Thanks for watching, Jeff! It wasn't until this past summer that a fellow woodworker showed me the parallel face method. It was an epiphany for me.
I like the pace and details shown in the video. I just subscribed and I like your style. I do recommend you show pictures of the piece you're making to supplement to the verbal. Pretty good editing to make this video under 20 mins. Lots of work. Btw you have some nice machines. I'd like to equip my shop soon so a little shop tour w your reflections on equipment would be appreciated. I already googled your grizzly jointer just to reference. Thank you for sharing your time and experience.
Thank you for the constructive criticism. I agree, a photo here and there would definitely help illustrate joinery, techniques, and processes. I'll try to do that in the future. I do plan on making shorter videos. Talking about shop equipment would be a perfect topic for a short format video.
Nice build start. Lots of great techniques (mortice cut before glue up of leg. Joint shoulders cut followed by bandsaw). I had a small chuckle when I saw the plug on the saw after hearing Marc on Woodtalk mention that exact thing in the latest episode. I generally switch off my dodgy home built saw when making adjustments, but at work my shop saw is a 415volt hardwired machine, so I have no plug to pull. I can key it off (which is how it is kept until use with a room full of students) and often do my setup up before key-on, but on some simple setups it's just switched off. I don't blame you for being obvious though with some of the trolling that occurs. A very well paced, described and demonstrated video. Really enjoying your channel.
Damo Vegan Funny, I didn't listen to that episode until today. I do agree with Matt, safety is a personal responsibility. However, some may see me as an example and therefore I want to try and practice what I preach. Yes, it is a preventative measure from trolls, but posting these videos had made me personally accountable, much more purposeful in my actions, and more thorough in my explanations. Thank you for watching and commenting.
This build idea is cool, I don't have jointer or a planer, so I will do it with hand tools. adding this to my "to build" list. P.S. you need to get better attire for your videos....alabama is all I have to say:)
Hey now, hey now! I wore a Crimson Tide T-shirt in this video. I got to show some respect to my Alma Mater, Vandy. Besides, Vandy is in the East. :-) Using hand planes to flatten is a skill I need to learn. Good luck!
It's custom in the sense that I altered it to fit my needs. The original idea for my crosscut sled came from Paul Jenkins of The Wood Knight. He has a video outlining the build of this crosscut sled. I did not incorporate all the accessories he used and my sled is larger for my table saw. Paul Jenkins has free plans for his crosscut sled available on his website. Go check him out!
I did not buy the lumber from a big box store. I bought the Southern Yellow Pine from a local family owned lumber yard that saws and kiln dries their own lumber. If you're in the North Alabama/Tennessee Valley area, I highly recommend Littrell Lumber in Decatur, AL. They have a dense, tight grain, low defect product that blows the big box store out of the water. Even better yet, their prices are lower than the big box store. Thank you for watching!
Excellent point on taking care of the faces first. I have some mahogany I'm prepping soon and will try that out. I have a question for you about your jointer and planer. I have the same jointer as you and did the Shelix upgrade myself. Did you do the same thing with your planer, or did you buy it with the helical head installed? If you did it, how difficult was the upgrade? Thanks! Mark
I have the Byrd Shelix upgrade for both the jointer and the planer. I bought the Shelix cutterhead as an aftermarket item because Grizzly will only install their proprietary cutterhead (which is not a Shelix...and there is a major difference). Buying the Shelix cutterhead and installing it myself actually saved me $100 (and I get a spare straight knife cutterhead in case the Shelix gets damaged). If you install it yourself, you'll need a mallet, a pulley pull, and maybe some new bearings (if the installed bearings get damaged). It's not difficult but it does take patience. The bearings are press-fit and takes some effort to pull off. If you decide to install it yourself, let me know and I can give you a couple of tips. I also know of a good place to get high quality bearings for cheap.
Excellent job. it appears that when you decided to get into woodworking you decided on a major all at once no messing around let's get this done major spend on all the tools you could possibly need. I like the long format videos - they take me all the way through my lunch. EDIT: THUMBS UP!
D Dixon I'm in this all the way. I wasn't fooling around when I decided to start woodworking. I will probably stick with the long format because that's the level of detail I would like to see. Thank you for watching.
Huy, another great video. You're a natural....I did see you as the Astronaut 🤐. That was pretty good. We had our first house hunt trip for my relocation and I told the Realtor what you suggested. We are looking forward to the move and meeting new friends. Keep it up buddy!!
Thank you, David! They are the Jessem Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides. They are an aftermarket product that keeps your stock tight against your fence and table. Basically takes the place of four feather boards.
I layout, then cut the mortises from 4:39 onward. The mortises were laid out by clamping the two halves of the legs and feet together and then drawing the outline of the mortises. I then used the table saw to define and trench out the mortises. In the glue up portion of the video you'll see that I glue up two halves of the leg and feet and you'll see the notches coming together to form the mortise. Thank you for watching!
Marty Schlosser , I too had to take a 2nd look to realize that he found a crafty way to ensure his mortises were in the center by doing the halves before gluing. The primary clue was he kept saying mortises and all I saw were dadoes lol
No it's just the switch box for 220V power. However, a VFD would be a good idea for thin material. I would worry about have enough torque on the slower speeds.
Noticed you were wearing a Vandy shirt, are you an alum'? Also, are you going to make plain pinned joints or are you going to draw bore them? Enjoyed the video, Rollie
Hey Rollie! Yes, I'm an alum. Graduated 2006 with a BE in mechanical engineering. After some further thought, I've decided to use a plain pinned joint. I'm using wedged mortise and tenon joints which acts like a pseudo dovetail joint. The "trumpet" shape of the mortise will act like an inclined plane, sucking the shoulders into the mortise cheeks (I'll explain this in my next video). The pins will prevent racking. I feel a draw bore would be over-kill. Not that I'm against over-engineered woodworking. :-)
Yes, I'm familiar with wedged mortise and tenon joint. Have you ever tried a "foxed joint"? It is a wedged tenon in a blind mortise. A joint to try your confidence.(;
Rollie Kelly You know Rollie, after talking with some other woodworkers, I think you're right. It doesn't hurt to use a draw bore for an extra level of reassurance. I'll have to look up that joint. I'm always up for a challenge. Thank you for watching.
If you decide to go the draw bore route, be sure you use straight grain riven stock. Ordinary stock dowels aren't strong enough to handle the seasonal changes. Looking forward to the next episode, Rollie
I really appreciate your precision and attention to detail in all that you do. I can see it's a personality trait that would help support the engineering route you've chosen :) You've worked in a decent balance where things are broken down into digestible chunks without being too drawn out. I saw later comments where you've already acknowledged the value of being a bit more visual with which pieces are which. For example, when you're calling out measurements on how your laying out joinery, it isn't too tough to lose the viewer in the orientation. A low tech method is like what Norm did on the New Yankee Workshop with referring to his prototype lol. If it wasn't for my knowing the vocabulary, I would have been scratching my head a bit longer on seeing how it all was fitting together. Either way, it's a sign I was engaging in your process and learning. So kudos to you!
Wow what a super quick reply :) Don't let the UA-cam allure invade your life too quick ;) Side question: how long have you been serious about woodworking? I like that you refer to yourself as a lifelong learner and there hasn't been any lack of content knowledge to lessen your credibility, but you make it sound as if you haven't been at it for very long.
I have not been doing this for very long. I've been woodworking for 4 years and started furniture making about 6 months ago. I have some very good mentors that I consult with on an almost daily basis with decades worth of experience. While I may not lack in knowledge, I lack in experience, practical application, and wisdom. Thank you for watching and I'll thoughtfully consider your critiques.
Another Great Video! At the 5:10 point in the video you use a tool with a Black ruler that looks a lot like the woodpecker ones i have but the marks look a lot easier to see and the tightening knobs are longer..... Who make it?? Thanks Again!!
Michael Shawn Sedor The ruler is made by PEC Tools but sold by Taylor Tool Works LLC through their eBay store (store name is taylortoolworksllc). They sell a lot of factory seconds that have an insignificant cosmetic blemish (still guaranteed accuracy within 0.001"). Here is a link to the ruler I used at 5:10 (www.ebay.com/itm/USA-PEC-Machinist-Ruler-Scale-6-150-mm-SAE-Metric-E-M-Rigid-Black-Chrome-/130928177963?hash=item1e7bed732b:g:~fsAAOSwdsFUPAZg). I bought a Woodpeckers Rule Stop 1 to attach to the ruler. Also, I highly recommend the PEC Tools SAE/Metric double squares through Taylor Tool Works. I have the 4" and 6" and they are indispensable. Hope that helps.
Thank You! I really like how easy the measurements look with the white over black compared to my stainless woodpecker ones.... Sucks getting old sometimes :)
fnkyjoe -- the apron in the first shots is made of canvas and available at Rockler (I may be incorrect on the material, but mine is exactly like his and canvas). They have a great around the back attachment with a quick clip and have lots of pockets. I have that exact apron and I do enjoy it a lot. It's not too wide and bothers your arms, the pockets are good size and I think I picked mine up for under $25. Great choice if you go with that one!!!
I like the "leave the plug end on the table to show the saw is unplugged" move. Troll mitigation in full effect! Great video!
While it's a common practice for me to unplug my saw when I'm touching the blade, I do make a point to show it on video so that I'm not deemed an "unsafe woodworker." Thank you for watching!
Great work on all that joinery Huy! Lots of nice tight fitting joints. Great craftsmanship.
Thanks, Guy! Means a lot coming from you!
Looks like you are off to a good start with solid joinery. Steve
Thank you, Steve!
Cool! Looking forward to part 2
Thanks, Mark!
Very nice, liked the use of the bandsaw for the joinery.
Gotta love the bandsaw!
David Shelton , I was actually surprised to see how much joinery he did successfully with a bandsaw. I noticed that the pace of the cut was very smooth and methodical. I'm assuming that, a sharp blade, and decently set guides (although his upper was far away most of the time due to the fence) is the key to success?
Nicely done!
Thank you, Joel!
Great video and a great fit so far. Thanks for the explanation of the face joining. More than once I've faced one side, then after a break ,accidentally edge joined using the unjointed face. I like your method and it makes good sense. Enjoy your videos, your shop, and your technique and look forward to the next installment.
Thanks, Barry!
Very cool. Thanks for the explanation on the face joint process at the beginning. I've always done adjacent edge/face to establish a square corner but I'll give yours a try. Can't wait to see the rest of the build.
Jeff Forbes Thanks for watching, Jeff! It wasn't until this past summer that a fellow woodworker showed me the parallel face method. It was an epiphany for me.
I like the pace and details shown in the video. I just subscribed and I like your style. I do recommend you show pictures of the piece you're making to supplement to the verbal. Pretty good editing to make this video under 20 mins. Lots of work.
Btw you have some nice machines. I'd like to equip my shop soon so a little shop tour w your reflections on equipment would be appreciated. I already googled your grizzly jointer just to reference.
Thank you for sharing your time and experience.
Thank you for the constructive criticism. I agree, a photo here and there would definitely help illustrate joinery, techniques, and processes. I'll try to do that in the future. I do plan on making shorter videos. Talking about shop equipment would be a perfect topic for a short format video.
Solid tight joinery . Good tip for edge joining a board !
Thank you!
Nice build start. Lots of great techniques (mortice cut before glue up of leg. Joint shoulders cut followed by bandsaw).
I had a small chuckle when I saw the plug on the saw after hearing Marc on Woodtalk mention that exact thing in the latest episode. I generally switch off my dodgy home built saw when making adjustments, but at work my shop saw is a 415volt hardwired machine, so I have no plug to pull. I can key it off (which is how it is kept until use with a room full of students) and often do my setup up before key-on, but on some simple setups it's just switched off. I don't blame you for being obvious though with some of the trolling that occurs.
A very well paced, described and demonstrated video. Really enjoying your channel.
Damo Vegan Funny, I didn't listen to that episode until today. I do agree with Matt, safety is a personal responsibility. However, some may see me as an example and therefore I want to try and practice what I preach. Yes, it is a preventative measure from trolls, but posting these videos had made me personally accountable, much more purposeful in my actions, and more thorough in my explanations. Thank you for watching and commenting.
everything looks really good so far bro! those m&t's were spot on💪💯 cant wait to see how this looks when finished!👍👍🍻✌
Joe basementwoodworking Thanks, Joe!
Nice
This build idea is cool, I don't have jointer or a planer, so I will do it with hand tools. adding this to my "to build" list. P.S. you need to get better attire for your videos....alabama is all I have to say:)
Hey now, hey now! I wore a Crimson Tide T-shirt in this video. I got to show some respect to my Alma Mater, Vandy. Besides, Vandy is in the East. :-) Using hand planes to flatten is a skill I need to learn. Good luck!
Thank you sir.
nice clean work
Thank you, Colin!
I love your cross cut sled. custom build?
It's custom in the sense that I altered it to fit my needs. The original idea for my crosscut sled came from Paul Jenkins of The Wood Knight. He has a video outlining the build of this crosscut sled. I did not incorporate all the accessories he used and my sled is larger for my table saw. Paul Jenkins has free plans for his crosscut sled available on his website. Go check him out!
Did you buy the lumber from a big box store or lumber supply? The lumber looked clean. Good fit on your mortises and bridle joint.
I did not buy the lumber from a big box store. I bought the Southern Yellow Pine from a local family owned lumber yard that saws and kiln dries their own lumber. If you're in the North Alabama/Tennessee Valley area, I highly recommend Littrell Lumber in Decatur, AL. They have a dense, tight grain, low defect product that blows the big box store out of the water. Even better yet, their prices are lower than the big box store. Thank you for watching!
Nice job!!! Roll Tide!
Jeff Campbell Roll Tide!
Looks like a nice project. But why is there a vehicle in your workshop? :D
Haha! Happy wife...happy life...partially crammed workshop!
Excellent point on taking care of the faces first. I have some mahogany I'm prepping soon and will try that out. I have a question for you about your jointer and planer. I have the same jointer as you and did the Shelix upgrade myself. Did you do the same thing with your planer, or did you buy it with the helical head installed? If you did it, how difficult was the upgrade? Thanks! Mark
I have the Byrd Shelix upgrade for both the jointer and the planer. I bought the Shelix cutterhead as an aftermarket item because Grizzly will only install their proprietary cutterhead (which is not a Shelix...and there is a major difference). Buying the Shelix cutterhead and installing it myself actually saved me $100 (and I get a spare straight knife cutterhead in case the Shelix gets damaged). If you install it yourself, you'll need a mallet, a pulley pull, and maybe some new bearings (if the installed bearings get damaged). It's not difficult but it does take patience. The bearings are press-fit and takes some effort to pull off. If you decide to install it yourself, let me know and I can give you a couple of tips. I also know of a good place to get high quality bearings for cheap.
Excellent job. it appears that when you decided to get into woodworking you decided on a major all at once no messing around let's get this done major spend on all the tools you could possibly need. I like the long format videos - they take me all the way through my lunch. EDIT: THUMBS UP!
D Dixon I'm in this all the way. I wasn't fooling around when I decided to start woodworking. I will probably stick with the long format because that's the level of detail I would like to see. Thank you for watching.
Huy, another great video. You're a natural....I did see you as the Astronaut 🤐. That was pretty good. We had our first house hunt trip for my relocation and I told the Realtor what you suggested. We are looking forward to the move and meeting new friends. Keep it up buddy!!
Tony V That's great to hear. Once you move to the area, let's do lunch.
Listen, got to keep my astronaut days on the down low! 😉
nice one my brother I enjoyed it a lot .....keep up the great builds and vids
Thanks, Matt! I'm trying to improve so that I can give more. The encouragement really helps!
Hey, great video. What were those roller things clamped to your table saw fence?
Thank you, David! They are the Jessem Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides. They are an aftermarket product that keeps your stock tight against your fence and table. Basically takes the place of four feather boards.
Really enjoy your videos Huy!! Keep up the good work
Huntsville Houch Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Nice start to a great skill building project. Thumbs Up and sub'd. Thanks for the video -- can't wait to see the next one!
Thank you!
Nice work. But I didn't see any video of you making the mortises; did I somehow miss them? Again, nice tight joinery.
I layout, then cut the mortises from 4:39 onward. The mortises were laid out by clamping the two halves of the legs and feet together and then drawing the outline of the mortises. I then used the table saw to define and trench out the mortises. In the glue up portion of the video you'll see that I glue up two halves of the leg and feet and you'll see the notches coming together to form the mortise. Thank you for watching!
Marty Schlosser , I too had to take a 2nd look to realize that he found a crafty way to ensure his mortises were in the center by doing the halves before gluing. The primary clue was he kept saying mortises and all I saw were dadoes lol
Thanks to both you and he for the clarification!
Wow, you are very precise and very neat can watch your videos all day. Well done beautiful work.
Greg Rundle Thank you!
Do you always do your joinery first and then shape?
Not always. It depends on what's being built. In this case, it made more sense to cut the joinery with square pieces then with shaped pieces.
Do you have a VFD on your planer? It looks like there is a white box with an extension cord hanging on it at 3:20 min into the video.
No it's just the switch box for 220V power. However, a VFD would be a good idea for thin material. I would worry about have enough torque on the slower speeds.
Noticed you were wearing a Vandy shirt, are you an alum'? Also, are you going to make plain pinned joints or are you going to draw bore them?
Enjoyed the video,
Rollie
Hey Rollie! Yes, I'm an alum. Graduated 2006 with a BE in mechanical engineering. After some further thought, I've decided to use a plain pinned joint. I'm using wedged mortise and tenon joints which acts like a pseudo dovetail joint. The "trumpet" shape of the mortise will act like an inclined plane, sucking the shoulders into the mortise cheeks (I'll explain this in my next video). The pins will prevent racking. I feel a draw bore would be over-kill. Not that I'm against over-engineered woodworking. :-)
Yes, I'm familiar with wedged mortise and tenon joint. Have you ever tried a "foxed joint"? It is a wedged tenon in a blind mortise. A joint to try your confidence.(;
Rollie Kelly You know Rollie, after talking with some other woodworkers, I think you're right. It doesn't hurt to use a draw bore for an extra level of reassurance. I'll have to look up that joint. I'm always up for a challenge. Thank you for watching.
Rollie Kelly Just looked up a foxed wedged tenon. Haha! That's a doozy!
If you decide to go the draw bore route, be sure you use straight grain riven stock. Ordinary stock dowels aren't strong enough to handle the seasonal changes.
Looking forward to the next episode,
Rollie
I really appreciate your precision and attention to detail in all that you do. I can see it's a personality trait that would help support the engineering route you've chosen :)
You've worked in a decent balance where things are broken down into digestible chunks without being too drawn out.
I saw later comments where you've already acknowledged the value of being a bit more visual with which pieces are which. For example, when you're calling out measurements on how your laying out joinery, it isn't too tough to lose the viewer in the orientation. A low tech method is like what Norm did on the New Yankee Workshop with referring to his prototype lol.
If it wasn't for my knowing the vocabulary, I would have been scratching my head a bit longer on seeing how it all was fitting together. Either way, it's a sign I was engaging in your process and learning. So kudos to you!
Phelps Helps Thank you for the criticism. I'm continually learning.
Wow what a super quick reply :) Don't let the UA-cam allure invade your life too quick ;)
Side question: how long have you been serious about woodworking? I like that you refer to yourself as a lifelong learner and there hasn't been any lack of content knowledge to lessen your credibility, but you make it sound as if you haven't been at it for very long.
I have not been doing this for very long. I've been woodworking for 4 years and started furniture making about 6 months ago. I have some very good mentors that I consult with on an almost daily basis with decades worth of experience. While I may not lack in knowledge, I lack in experience, practical application, and wisdom. Thank you for watching and I'll thoughtfully consider your critiques.
Great Video!
Thank you, Tony!
Yet another great videoQ
Thanks, man!
Another Great Video! At the 5:10 point in the video you use a tool with a Black ruler that looks a lot like the woodpecker ones i have but the marks look a lot easier to see and the tightening knobs are longer..... Who make it?? Thanks Again!!
Michael Shawn Sedor The ruler is made by PEC Tools but sold by Taylor Tool Works LLC through their eBay store (store name is taylortoolworksllc). They sell a lot of factory seconds that have an insignificant cosmetic blemish (still guaranteed accuracy within 0.001"). Here is a link to the ruler I used at 5:10 (www.ebay.com/itm/USA-PEC-Machinist-Ruler-Scale-6-150-mm-SAE-Metric-E-M-Rigid-Black-Chrome-/130928177963?hash=item1e7bed732b:g:~fsAAOSwdsFUPAZg). I bought a Woodpeckers Rule Stop 1 to attach to the ruler. Also, I highly recommend the PEC Tools SAE/Metric double squares through Taylor Tool Works. I have the 4" and 6" and they are indispensable. Hope that helps.
Thank You! I really like how easy the measurements look with the white over black compared to my stainless woodpecker ones.... Sucks getting old sometimes :)
Great videos - makes me want to get into woodworking. Do you have a rough guestimate of how much you have invested in your equipment?
Roll Tide!
Yeah! Roll Tide!
Just found your channel. Where did you get your leather apron?
fnkyjoe -- the apron in the first shots is made of canvas and available at Rockler (I may be incorrect on the material, but mine is exactly like his and canvas). They have a great around the back attachment with a quick clip and have lots of pockets. I have that exact apron and I do enjoy it a lot. It's not too wide and bothers your arms, the pockets are good size and I think I picked mine up for under $25. Great choice if you go with that one!!!
fnkyjoe What Tony V said. :-)
What do you call those fred depth guagesm
*red
michael oronia They are made by Woodpeckers. It's part of their One Time Tool line.