Contemporary Trestle Table Part 2: Adding Shape and Mechanical Joints
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- In this video, I finish the construction of the base assembly for a contemporary style trestle table. I cut the bridle joint for the mid brace, drill the draw bores, cut the tenon wedges, hand plane all the surfaces, glue and assemble the base, and attach the corbels. The base assembly went together nicely and should be a perfect platform for the Cherry table top.
To keep up with what I've got going on in the shop, follow me on Instagram - @alabamawoodworker
An article and free plans are available for download from Popular Woodworking Magazine's website: www.popularwood...
The article and plans were written by Chris Schwarz and was featured in the Autumn 2006 issue of Woodworking Magazine.
Awesome work and video quality!! Plus I live in Tuscaloosa so I have to respect the Alabama woodworkers.
will sunday Thanks, Will!
Really like your style of video and how well you explain things as you move along in the build! Great job!
Doug Nath Thank you, Doug! I'm always trying to improve but my style is likely to remain the same. Thank you for the kind words.
Great explanation of what you're doing Huy! And the table is going to turn out awesome!
Thanks, Guy! I've got some good mentors as examples. ;-)
Love the build and your explanations on the step by step process. One of the most detailed UA-camrs I subscribe too.
AUBREY SEYMOUR Thanks man! There's always room for improvement. I will say that doing these videos had made me a much better woodworker. Thank you for watching!
Absolutely beautiful. Looking forward to see the top.
The top is going to be a challenge. It's easy to construct but choosing the right boards is something I'm not proficient in. Hopefully, it will look good. Thank you for watching!
Great video. I am enjoying watching your progress. I enjoy the clear and concise way you lay out each step. Very easy to follow along. Video quality is great. Looking forward to seeing the top go on and your method of construction. Keep the videos coming. So far it looks awesome!
Thank you, Larry! I hope I'm not too "simple" for the masses. While I'm still learning so much, I want to make sure I understand the reasoning and logic behind my processes. Making these videos is just as much a benefit for me to make sure I understand what it is that I'm doing. Thank you for watching.
beautiful job. love your shop cabinets.
Chad Axling Thank you, Chad! It took a while to build all the shop cabinets but it was well worth it. I don't have issues finding things since everything has a home.
Very nice Huy!
Thanks, David!
Can't wait to see the finale! Have you thought about a finish?
Thanks for sharing.
Hey, Jeff! Yes, I thought a lot about finish. I've talked to several of my mentors and I've locked down on a finishing technique. The base is going to primed and painted a lamp black milk paint. This is purposefully done to drive attention away from the base and draw more attention to the top. The top really needs to POP. The solid Cherry top will be flooded with a 50/50 blend of Naphtha and boiled linseed oil to give depth of color. I'll then wipe off the excess and put a couple of coats of garnet shellac. Lastly, I'll seal the top with a water based finish.
Well done!
Thanks, Joey!
Thanks for sharing this. Lots of great tips and I appreciate how precise you are.
Thank you for watching.
Looks great! Thanks for sharing.
Alfonso Castro-Pena Thank you for watching, Alfonso.
nice build
Colin Blankenship Thanks, Colin!
appreciate the detail!
Mark Feliciano You're welcome. Thank you for watching.
Awesome!
Thanks, Kevin! Thank you for watching!
Nice bro.
Thanks, Hazem!
Thanks you for the long form video. We get this from the master woodworker Guy too and it is very much appreciated. That offset for the dowel was particularly interesting. This is going to be a great gift.
D Dixon Thank you! I really like the Guy's format and I plan on continuing this level of detail in my videos.
Your project is coming along nicely and another well done video. I also have a question and a suggestion. Why use both draw boring and a wedged tenon? On the visible wedged tenons, I suggest using a contrasting wood to really highlight your work and it looks good. Steve
Hey Steve! Thanks for watching! I know what you mean about using draw boring and a wedged tenon. The article by Chris Schwarz suggested using draw boring, but I wasn't completely sold on using this additional mechanical joint. After talking to a couple of fellow woodworkers that did this project I came to this conclusion. The draw bore helps keep the mortise and tenon shoulders flush while driving in the wedges. It's not necessary but it's like an extra set of hands to keep everything square and perpendicular. I don't think I would've struggled with the glue up if I only chose to wedge the tenons. I will say, this was probably one of the easiest glue ups I've ever done. I would've used a contrasting wood but given that the base is going to be painted a lamp black milk paint, I decided to go with scrap hard maple and commercially available straight grain Oak dowel stock. But, my next project (dining room trestle table for my wife) will definitely have contrasting wood.
drill press? bold of you going free hand on all of those holes. also check your tension on your band saw. great vid. keep up the good work.
Gregory DeRosso I felt comfortable using the hand drill. I used the same method when I draw bored my workbench. I tension the bandsaw as per Alex Snodgrass' recommendations for setup. I've had the same blade on the bandsaw for the last 2 years, so I'm quite happy with the way the bandsaw is setup. Thanks for watching!
base looks SOLID!💪 and nice work with all the joinery patience is a virtue..and a must;) lookimg fwd to the finish 👍👍
Joe basementwoodworking Thanks, Joe!
Another great video. Project is coming along beautifully. Your comments below about how you benefit from explaining the process is the exact thing I tell my students. That explaining something to someone else helps you to develop a better understanding of what you are doing and become a better woodworker in the process. I really like your presenting style. Easy and clear. Keep it up.
Damo Vegan Thanks, Damo! I'm so happy to know you're challenging your students to explain their processes. It's a great learning tool. I hope you continue to teach woodworking. Unfortunately, schools are slowly but surely eliminating these types of vocational classes. It's a shame.
Other than "because I can" (which is a great answer by the way) why use the draw bore AND the wedged tenons? They pretty much achieve similar results as to strength and pulling a joint tight. Just curious. I often over engineer things just to practice new techniques and skills so that is where my question comes from as you did say in a previous video this project would be a challenge with new techniques you had not done before. Great video and loving the progress!!!
I'm happy you asked this question. You're absolutely right! There comes a point were over engineering a project serves no return, in which case you're just practicing. I was really on the fence about using draw boring because I didn't want the project to be an overkill of joinery. After reading the Chris Schwarz article and talking to a couple of fellow woodworkers that have combined draw boring with wedged mortise and tenons, I came to this conclusion. The draw bore helps keep the mortise and tenon shoulders flush while driving in the wedges. It's not necessary but it's like an extra set of hands. I don't think I would've struggled with the glue up if I only chose to wedge the tenons. I will say, this was probably one of the easiest glue ups I've ever done. Thank you for watching and thank you for asking such a thoughtful question. Good times!
Nice job! Your shop is looking nicer with every production too. BTW--have a look into some Sorby paring chisels if you haven't added them to your toolbox yet.
Carl Miller Thanks Carl! I have considered them as well as some Japanese chisels. Truthfully, I need to educate myself on chisels. The chisels I have now get the job done but I'm pretty sure I'll want a set of premiums at some point. Thank you for watching!
You're welcome and thanks for the great quality videos. I think that at least one paring chisel in the 1" range would be a great place to start; when you encounter situations where you're contemplating busting out a flush cut saw, a paring chisel may very likely come in as a natural (and extremely good) follow-up to chase your cuts. Their blades are long enough and thinner than normal chisels in order to be driven flush even across a broad surface such as the center of a table. You can then nicely slice away proud material. Quick thoughts:
Standard chisels: cleaning out bores, some light mortise work, short-stroke paring
Mortising chisels: heavy-driving boring chisels for mortising and other boring needs
Paring and skew chisels: Paring and flush cutting where a finish cut is needed
Aloha
Carl Miller Thank you for the explanation on the chisels. I've been using standard bench chisels to follow the flush trim saw. While I have a good assortment of power tools, I'm slowly building up my hand tool collection.
excellent!!
Huntsville Houch Thanks you!
I was wondering if you would be available to meet up in May? I am a complete novice and would really appreciate your advice. I am in Kuwait but return to Huntsville on the 17th of May. I am also an Aerospace electrical avionic engineer, small world. Please feel free to email me andrew.houston584@gmail.com
Huntsville Houch I tried sending you a message via UA-cam PM but got no response. I'll try your email address.
Looks great, What is that large low angle plane that you were using?
It's the Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane. Thanks for watching, Jack!
Do you think it would be better to cut the shape of the corbel out of the stretcher, instead of adding pieces on after?
The corbel is not used for structural strength and since the base will be painted, you'll never see the seam that joins the corbel to the stretcher. It's also easier to cut the smaller corbel on the bandsaw than to cut the shape of the corbel out of the much larger stretcher. Lastly, it's much easier to have two identical pieces when attaching them to the stretcher as opposed to making a template and pattern routing them into the stretcher. Thanks for watching and thank you for the question.
Right. I forgot the base was being painted.Thanks for the reply, and keep up the amazing work!
like your videos but I think you should change the color of the text when writing on the screen the red is a little to hard to see with some of the back rounds other then that great work