Restoring the WORST Headlights Ever! | Chrysler Crossfire
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- Опубліковано 29 лип 2022
- Hello all! Today we did the worst headlights today, and they still came out great! I started with a 320 grit sandpaper to really remove all the severe oxidation and flaking. Once It was removed, I moved up to a 400 grit to get rid o the scratches made from the 320. I then finished with a 600 before applying the new clearcoat.
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📚 How to Start Your Own Business - www.StartRestoringHeadlights.com
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Does anyone still sepl crossfire headlight assembly? I cant find replacements anywhere online
Nice! What products did you use?
Hey Brad, do you usually do 320 also when half of the headlight still has solid clear coat in tact? Example: 2016ish GMC Acadia / Toyota Tundra
For both those, no we use 400. Unless they are severely oxidized we may use a 320. If the top half is oxidized, and the bottom half has stubborn clear coat (this is actually very common) I will not use the 320 on the top. Only the bottom.
@@StartRestoringHeadlights Makes sense. Thanks for the response bro! You and your work are awesome!
@@thesammann6530 You're welcome my dude! Thanks for the support!
Not sure about the final step - So I'm guessing your special spray has some kind of emulsifier to soften and smooth out all the microscratches from the sanding? Most videos I've watched there is some kind of compounding/polishing before a final uv coat. The kits you sell, how many lenses do you get per can?
Good evening Hiker64. The clear coat is not an emulsifier, but rather a filler. This is why it's such an effective method. Rather than sand the lens smooth, the clear coat fills the scratches. It also acts as a UV protectant.
It varies based on the size of the headlights you are doing. It can be anywhere between 2-4 vehicles per can. For example a 2008 dodge ram has a very large headlight, which will require more spray, where as an Acura TL is much smaller.
The course goes over some of that information. Also, Our course now comes with any purchase of a kit.
Cool
Nice job. I see in another comment you started with 320 grit. What is your rule of thumb to determine your starting grit sandpaper? I know it’s based on headlight deterioration, but can you be more specific as in what you notice to determine a more aggressive paper?
Hi That Dude, its based on the severity of the oxidation. I only use 320 in EXTREME cases, if over used it can damage the lens, causing very big scratches. I will use the water to spray as I sand so I can see how deep I am going, as well as cleaning the lens of loose oxidation so I can ensure the oxidation is fully removed, and is ready for the next grit.
Usually when you want to level deeper scratches or if you have thick crusted over factory headlight coating that has failed like with these headlights. You can also knock that down by using a razor blade held flat against the surface, the same way guys use the razor blade to knock down runs on paint, works faster than sandpaper, you can simply go over with some 600 at that point and then progress to the finer grits, compound, polish, etc.
@@STILLNIGHTPEARL I like the idea of the razor blade and I’m sure it can work great if the coating is pretty much flaking off. I’d say to use extreme caution for sure and to take your time for anyone else reading this.
@@StartRestoringHeadlights Yes I agree to use on extreme instances and good to know what to look for.
I only disagree with one point and that is wet sanding. Wet sanding is actually a false sense of depth. The water being used is actually working against the sanding pad because of its lubrication causing more slip. The more slip, the less bite the grit has to dig in to the surface. You also cannot see or visually tell how deep you are scratching in to the surface until you dry the surface and inspect. This can be dangerous.
Also, your method doesn’t fully resurface the headlight. You’re simply putting slightly finer scratches across the surface and using your coating as a filler, which fills in the scratches.
Wet sanding has proven itself to work and clean up headlights, but I found dry sanding to be far more superior in clarity as well as safely knowing how deep you’re scratching the surface to clean it up. You can also see a more uniformed surface this was since there’s no water clouding judgment.
Wet sanding is fine and there’s many ways to skin the cat in this game. I just find dry sanding to be quicker, more uniformed, and more exact in seeing the depth in resurfacing.
There are harder headlights and factory coatings out there. Also if fixing a job where 2k clear or similar has been used, the originally rule of thumb for wet sanding won’t apply. And that is when you see the milkyness of the drip turn white, then you know you’ve knocked the oxidation off to go to the next grit. Well, if the deterioration isn’t yellowed, then you’d have no idea how long to sand or how deep you’re going.
Dry sanding is just accurate and superior for knocking down and smoothing out.
@@MichaelBrianInc it’s all practice, you learn by doing, anyone doing it for the very first time is going to take a long time or mess something up along the way. The razor blade knocks everything down fast, there’s a reason the body shop guys use it to knock down runs, that same technique can be used on severely oxidized headlights instead of some aggressive sandpaper. As you can see the 320 grit still took a while to remove the failed factory coating, the razor would’ve knocked it down faster, you can then follow up with 600 and jump to 1500, you can then two step after that and apply whatever protection you like. Most guys seem to use a coating or 2K clear, but the way to go is PPF, it’s the only thing close to a permanent solution, plus it protects against impacts.
Nice which clear coat did you use and grit? Sorry, my kid was sleeping and I had to watch on mute lol.
Hi CXL, I started with a 320, then finished with a 600. I started my own brand of clear coat thats a UV protectant, and bonds specifically to the polycarbonate plastic. I partner with detailers in my area too, incase you were interested in working together :)
@@StartRestoringHeadlights please send me info
@@cxlmobileheadlightrestorat7906 email me at NextGenHeadlightRestoration@gmail.com
Good work I started using your medod and my results are good and fast thx
Great to hear!
Oh that’s great. What did you use to do this? What sandpaper, what did you spray on it.
Hi Tony, I used 320 to get the oxidation off, then a 600 for prep. We have our own brand of spray. StartRestoringHeadlights.com
if they are still foggy . . .rub in some 3 and 1 oil .
what is 3 and 1, some kind of tool?
European cars are the worst ones, Crossfire was made in Europe
stopping the video about a minute in, why are these videos wet sanding in a manner that is manual work?
If it does have a cattle guard as with some trucks. Use the drill method.
But I want to see what this guy can do.
If I thought it was worth my time, I would troll this video.
But I'll keep it simple. 500 grit wet sand, 1200 grit wet sand, and 3000 grit wet sand before the polish.
I'm opposed to this video. The spray on, What I'm assuming is a clear coat, does not last.
Bogus video.
Hi Joe! We are a professional business and have found this method to be more efficient based on our 4+ years in the business. No clear coat lasts forever, but the UV additives in this clear can last 3+ years depending on how well it's taken care of, and applied correctly. Thanks for your input!
I forgot about watching this two weeks ago.
5+ years in the business?
I'm not going to troll, a lot of what I've seen is accurate, at least the wet sand.
But I don't personally agree with the clear coat.
My personal background is with jiffy lube. I became one of the best when it came to headlight restoration, and when the clear coat method came out.
I did try it, and immediately regretted it.
The clear coat ruined an otherwise well done job.
I had only applied it to one side, and then proceeded to ask my then manager to come out and see for himself the difference.
I told him I would never again apply clear coat to another headlight restoration again.
"Ok", he said," your the best and most knowledgeable tech I have for this, if you don't want to apply it, then we'll stop using it".
One professional to another.
Look into the polish method, and drop clear coat.
It's a win for everyone.
Did I really respond?
I'm gonna own it, polish over clear coat every time.
Clear coat does not shine.
@@joewhitlock9996 Hi Joe! I value everyone's opinion, as long as they are civil about it, and thank you for not trolling. You mean polish, then clear correct? Because if you just polish, it will start oxidizing within a few weeks, or even days. Sealing the lens is imperative. I get countless comments about this method, but its gotten used pretty far in the business. Check out the other videos, you might see after clear coating, it definitely does shine :)
@@StartRestoringHeadlights no, I mean polish alone.
How can I send you my work?
The industry standard is wrong.
The music ruined an otherwise great video.... sanding and work sounds beat the 70s porn music every day in a shop how to video sir...
Then dont watch💡