So, let me understand if I am getting this right. - You use a stencil and a spatula to apply low melting point liquid solder to the PCB - The PNP puts the componentd onto the PCB - Superficial tension from the solder keeps everything in place - The oven melts the solder - The ultrasonic cleaner removes leftover flux Correct?
That is exactly how I do it. even if the parts are not 100% perfectly placed the reflow will pull them straight. I poke from time to time one component that's off too much to avoid rework later. Before US clean I check for solder bridges or other errors. After cleaning I test the boards. If there is a fail I rework, clean and test again
The body diode in a mosfet doesn’t protect it against inductive flyback voltages. A discreet flyback diode (or freewheeling diode) needs to be placed (reverse biased) between drain and supply - assuming you are low side switching that pump.
Humorous highlight@ 6:09. I would've liked to have seen Young Frankenstein clip, "It's alive!!" used @ 7:02. I thoroughly enjoy these videos. You are a master builder, not just for your prowess mechanically, sir, but your electronics knowledge. I was introduced to pick-n-place machines used ubiquitously in Boulder Colorado some three decades ago. Incredible technology. Didn't know these had dropped so much in price they are now affordable to a homeowner. I sure hope the blood, sweat & tears was worth it for this massive build, Mr. Bitluni, and you reap untold profits from your small manufacturing endeavor.
What perfect timing to tempt me. Just a few days ago, I was hunched over my workbench with tweezers and a stereo microscope placing teeny-tiny components. Just thinking, this would be way easier to have a PnP machine do this for me. Of course, I'm not making boards in quantity, so I could spend a lot of effort getting a PnP machine built and running to "save time." Thanks for the video!
The best protection for your PC is a USB isolator. They're not super cheap but they are cheaper than an entire PC. The need for isolators increases with the amount of power your device uses. Remember ground is not ground, it's a wire leading to ground. Bad grounds will allow high currents to travel up one USB cable and down the other.
I'm always inspired by Bitluni,this man is a genius and he's contributing a lot to all electronic engineers all over the world,i can't wait to see him building a large factory"May God help
You got off lucky! I was using an oscilloscope to measure the voltage on a 96V BLDC motor and made the classic "how NOT to blow up your oscilloscope" mistake and the surge went through the probe, into the oscilloscope, but rather than ground, I guess my plug was flaky, it went down the OTHER probe, to my board under test, into the USB port, into my $1500 laptop (killing it!), and through my power adapters to ground. Yes the power adapters connected the negative contact to earth ground. I took the laptop apart to repair it louis-rossman style, hoping it was just a blown fuse since the laptop simply didn't do anything. Found 1 PCB mount fuse that was blown and some random SOT23 package, but also a dead VRM on the CPU. I suspect the CPU saw a 12V spike on one if it's lower power rails, killing it, but I have no easy way to tell if it's alive or dead. I was able to get some sign of life by removing the shorted MOSFET and VRM but no POST screen or anything.
created a smart home system with electric door locks, but when i unlock the door locks the whole system was restarting :) that was the point when i learned about the spikes that come from coils and the meaning and usage of fly-back diodes :) i lost whole week debugging and testing, was thinking it was my custom software problem :)
@@bitluni luckily the door locks were far away from the microcontroller and electronics, was controlling them using relay which has optic isolation i think...
7:10 - Louis would be proud off how much flux you use. But that colour? Interesting... Nice video. Thanks for sharing and congratulations on this successful build of your PnP machine. +1
Super nice. The correction of the component is actually sort of mandatory. I've worked with professional pick and place machines and you will be surprised how many components are just totally skewed in the reels. Sometimes even 180 degrees flipped. Normally this is done with a second steady camera, as a step between picking and placing. I was only wondering if you could go faster with this thing? Unless you're doing 100 boards, I don't really see a benefit vs placing thing yourself. All preparations considered. In fact, nowadays I just order them assembled even in small quantities.
I've been looking for vid like this, for so long. Thank you so much for making this. I really would like to see a video with a slightly more components, to demonstrate how effective this machine would be for a larger PCBs Guys in chat, can you like this comment, so he'll see the request for a larger, more complex pcb assembly montage pls 😀
You are very talented young man! Reminds me myself, when I was young.... I love your honesty and show the mistakes - we are just humans, not 100% perfect yet. Thank you for sharing your videos!
I think after all that work you deserve more than one treat! Having seen the FTDI fix I have to know if you learnt your flux usage from a certain Mr Rossmann of New York? Seriously though - that's an amazing result - well done.
I've watched quite a lot of this progress Live but it is nice to see the whole experience in one nicely edited video. Also amazed you had overview camera's running all the time.
6:10...verrrry sad. Also, I would augment those mosfets with an actual flyback diode. Mosfet diodes aren't supposed to handle that sort of voltage, and will have a shorter life for it. A proper flyback diode either across the motor or mosfet will help prevent this.
Definitely a textbook example of " DISRUPTIVE TECHNOLOGY " this is especially if the operator is allowed to operate it barefooted ( que in slap forehead clip with sound Efx )
wow!!! home made pick and place machine...GREAT !!! ... i just remember vintage manual DIE ATTACH and WIRE BONDING machines of one of the SEMICON factory i worked... :) :)
I fried a MKS SBASE too! :D I was trying to connect an endstop when the endstop's + and - wires brushed against each other very briefly and it totally blew up a little SC70 component that I think is a level shifter. Left a surprisingly large skid mark! 😹
First of all - it was interesting! That's for sure! Was it useful? I don't know. I see that the process requires A LOT of manual work to start: place components in the tray, machine aligning, software setup. It was not clear how much time you're spending each time to set up the process, but for me it looks pretty significant. In the end this machine costs a lot. 1700 Euros! So which production volume will save money versus manual pick and place?
Can you manually control the pick and place for one-off custom prototype boards as well. i.e. use camera to visually position it, then control suction nozzle to pick up and place it where you visually want to put it? i.e. joystick control? Also, how do you solder paste? Manually with a stencil or does the machine apply paste as well?
when a motor is disconected it gives a reverse polarity high voltage peak, in toy cars the controller were protected by installing a ceramic capacitor directly to the motor, this way when the energy is turned off the reverse polarity colapses with the stored energy in the capacitor protecting the circuit, I wonder if it would work here too?
Thanks for inspiration. Liteplacer looks like great reasonably priced tool for a small workshop :) Regarding the additional FET board, I would honestly expect this to be an integral part of the board. It should be a fully working kit, shouldn't it? Why would you need to get an additional part? I would expect it to be part of the kit, even if it's an extra board.
When the machine goes to pick up the next component from a tape, does it use the camera to see where the next full compartment is, or does it just remember which compartment it visited last time and go to the next one along?
So if the parts are placed by this machine it's done? Don't they have to be soldered onto the pcb? Could you introduce the whole assembling process, pls? By the way, saw the 3018 CNC video now i see a slight step up. Whats next space travel? I am already exited ;)
May be I missed it, but does the machine pulls-up the component reel each time a component is used? This way the robotic arm always goes to the same spot to pick up the compnent. Also a sensor to tell the operator that the reel is about to end.
You are my hero! I want to do this so badly. ( sorry for the odd English syntax ). I am inspired by you so I may try this myself. My girlfriend is going to kill me when I take over a bedroom in which to set this up. 😬. Here in Texas we have no basement in which do do such projects.
@5:38 when I saw the bag of parts, I said "Nooooo!" Great to see that you were able to fix it. :) Excellent video, too! I've got a T-Tech Quick Circuit 6000 that I picked up off of eBay for $650. It's lacking pick and place, but maybe not for long... :)
Amazing we are going to try making this machine for our graduation project can you pls give me the name of components and part that you used to bulid this amazing machine
Great video thanks for sharing. If you go Open PNP which is excellent by the way . Make sure you go Open PNP 2 not 1 otherwise later on you will have to convert settings.
I'm surprised the camera they use has a rolling shutter (instead of global shutter) but I guess it keeps the cost down, and the machine still works. You can notice it as the image warps while in motion.
Please test OpenPNP Software and then also show how to teak the machine for speed. The first placings looked very slow. But the project looks very cool! Well done (not the magic smoke part ;-)
Thank you for the nice video and congratulations 🎊 🎉 for making it work (including your recovery 🚑)! I guess you have a larger stencil for the PCB that holds all your individual PCBs (as it comes from JLCPCB) to put the solder paste? Very fascinating to watch! Thanks to the steak, I‘m now starving for breakfast 🥞 😅
Please get some trinamic drivers for that thing it really sounds horrible for anyone used to modern 3D printing... But nice didn't knew that there is a DIY Pick and Place Machine Kit that you can just buy, always assumed you need to source the stuff yourself.
@@bitluni trinamics silent step is pretty amazing. All that is left is fan noise... sometimes you wonder if its even plugged in. It makes a real difference when you are working around the machine. But man, that sounded really terrifying in your vid...
Pick and place TVM802A is ~$3,000 (shipped) and also does vision. Even if the one in your video is ~$2,000, I'd wonder if all the extra time assembling boards/etc is worth it?
This reminds me: I want a PnP machine! I have no need for it though, but it is so cool to watch. Nice build log. I saw a lot of it live and I hope the night shifts do not stop ;)
I have never made a PCB in my life, but I want one of these machines!
Welcome to the club 😁😁
I have hand soldered dozens and I would love this thing.
So, let me understand if I am getting this right.
- You use a stencil and a spatula to apply low melting point liquid solder to the PCB
- The PNP puts the componentd onto the PCB
- Superficial tension from the solder keeps everything in place
- The oven melts the solder
- The ultrasonic cleaner removes leftover flux
Correct?
That is exactly how I do it. even if the parts are not 100% perfectly placed the reflow will pull them straight. I poke from time to time one component that's off too much to avoid rework later. Before US clean I check for solder bridges or other errors. After cleaning I test the boards. If there is a fail I rework, clean and test again
@@bitluni nice. Thanks. 👍🏻
11:05 now all you need is a machine to place those chips in the tray
Then he need a machine to buy those chips and arrive them from China
@@Mauricetz Then he also need a machine that makes those chips in china so he can buy them
The body diode in a mosfet doesn’t protect it against inductive flyback voltages. A discreet flyback diode (or freewheeling diode) needs to be placed (reverse biased) between drain and supply - assuming you are low side switching that pump.
I was there when it finally happened! So glad you could share that moment with us.
that machine literally opens new doors of ideas. thanks. :)
Humorous highlight@ 6:09. I would've liked to have seen Young Frankenstein clip, "It's alive!!" used @ 7:02. I thoroughly enjoy these videos. You are a master builder, not just for your prowess mechanically, sir, but your electronics knowledge. I was introduced to pick-n-place machines used ubiquitously in Boulder Colorado some three decades ago. Incredible technology. Didn't know these had dropped so much in price they are now affordable to a homeowner. I sure hope the blood, sweat & tears was worth it for this massive build, Mr. Bitluni, and you reap untold profits from your small manufacturing endeavor.
What perfect timing to tempt me. Just a few days ago, I was hunched over my workbench with tweezers and a stereo microscope placing teeny-tiny components. Just thinking, this would be way easier to have a PnP machine do this for me. Of course, I'm not making boards in quantity, so I could spend a lot of effort getting a PnP machine built and running to "save time." Thanks for the video!
The best protection for your PC is a USB isolator. They're not super cheap but they are cheaper than an entire PC. The need for isolators increases with the amount of power your device uses. Remember ground is not ground, it's a wire leading to ground. Bad grounds will allow high currents to travel up one USB cable and down the other.
I'm always inspired by Bitluni,this man is a genius and he's contributing a lot to all electronic engineers all over the world,i can't wait to see him building a large factory"May God help
Every maker needs an Aaron
Pocket-Aaron
I was actually lucky enough to have helped build a pick and place in the 1980's. Even got to wirewrap a bunch of boards
7:08 Green flux? Or are you soldering with Götterspeise?
smells worse :-)
You got off lucky! I was using an oscilloscope to measure the voltage on a 96V BLDC motor and made the classic "how NOT to blow up your oscilloscope" mistake and the surge went through the probe, into the oscilloscope, but rather than ground, I guess my plug was flaky, it went down the OTHER probe, to my board under test, into the USB port, into my $1500 laptop (killing it!), and through my power adapters to ground. Yes the power adapters connected the negative contact to earth ground.
I took the laptop apart to repair it louis-rossman style, hoping it was just a blown fuse since the laptop simply didn't do anything. Found 1 PCB mount fuse that was blown and some random SOT23 package, but also a dead VRM on the CPU. I suspect the CPU saw a 12V spike on one if it's lower power rails, killing it, but I have no easy way to tell if it's alive or dead. I was able to get some sign of life by removing the shorted MOSFET and VRM but no POST screen or anything.
Oh man... that sounds terrifying. feeling really sorry you didn't have as much luck as I had.
created a smart home system with electric door locks, but when i unlock the door locks the whole system was restarting :) that was the point when i learned about the spikes that come from coils and the meaning and usage of fly-back diodes :) i lost whole week debugging and testing, was thinking it was my custom software problem :)
You are lucky nothing melted :-D
@@bitluni luckily the door locks were far away from the microcontroller and electronics, was controlling them using relay which has optic isolation i think...
7:10 - Louis would be proud off how much flux you use. But that colour? Interesting...
Nice video. Thanks for sharing and congratulations on this successful build of your PnP machine. +1
it's just a proper amount. thanks for your robust comment
Omg I need this. Your videos are awesome, and besides I always learn something, I really enjoy the musical selections. Minimal & chill.
Coole Videos! Macht Spaß die Maschine in Action zu sehen!
That outro was flipping lovely, the synced audio, goddamn
A good machine helps to solve many problems that we met in small electronic circuits
Super nice.
The correction of the component is actually sort of mandatory. I've worked with professional pick and place machines and you will be surprised how many components are just totally skewed in the reels. Sometimes even 180 degrees flipped. Normally this is done with a second steady camera, as a step between picking and placing.
I was only wondering if you could go faster with this thing?
Unless you're doing 100 boards, I don't really see a benefit vs placing thing yourself. All preparations considered.
In fact, nowadays I just order them assembled even in small quantities.
I've been looking for vid like this, for so long. Thank you so much for making this.
I really would like to see a video with a slightly more components, to demonstrate how effective this machine would be for a larger PCBs
Guys in chat, can you like this comment, so he'll see the request for a larger, more complex pcb assembly montage pls 😀
What exactly do you need in terms of information?
You are very talented young man! Reminds me myself, when I was young.... I love your honesty and show the mistakes - we are just humans, not 100% perfect yet. Thank you for sharing your videos!
Ok boomer
@@hansdietrich83 what is the problem?
Nice! Now you could upgrade it with some nice enclosure as well as transporting rail which could ship pcbs right into reflow oven
I would love to see a timelapse of your pick & placer just working away.
This is amazing I did not know that this was possible on the cheap thank you
Hello sir. Is it possible to do this with Arduino? What is the program that takes smd and shows where to put it?
7:17 excited german noises 😂
super!
when I was working as a Board component installer, I wanted to build a place machine like this
but now I'm a system administrator))
You said: "it's doing something..." I heard: "It's alive!" (like Frankenstein)
OpenPNP! Second pickup head! Cast aluminium feeders! Great video
I think after all that work you deserve more than one treat!
Having seen the FTDI fix I have to know if you learnt your flux usage from a certain Mr Rossmann of New York?
Seriously though - that's an amazing result - well done.
I don't know what you mean... it's just the proper amount. Thanks for the robust conversation
@@bitluni Luis Rossmann is a well known repair guy (mainly apple i think) with good skills and he has an youtube channel too
@@fritzfahrmann4730 he's also renowned for using way too damn much flux.
Bigger the blob, better the job. Thats what Rossman says about it!
You mean "the right amount of flux is all of them" approach?
I've watched quite a lot of this progress Live but it is nice to see the whole experience in one nicely edited video. Also amazed you had overview camera's running all the time.
Great recap video Bitluni! I have no need for a PNP, but seeing yours and Seon's - my life feels empty without one now!! haha
Now you need the roll through reflow oven, and flying finger probe test set at the end and your be full auto.
and will it blend at the end :-D
6:10...verrrry sad. Also, I would augment those mosfets with an actual flyback diode. Mosfet diodes aren't supposed to handle that sort of voltage, and will have a shorter life for it.
A proper flyback diode either across the motor or mosfet will help prevent this.
Definitely a textbook example of " DISRUPTIVE TECHNOLOGY " this is especially if the operator is allowed to operate it barefooted ( que in slap forehead clip with sound Efx )
it actually feels like 3d printers 5 years ago
Nice machine, a less expensive than most other compact "desktop" pick and place machines.
Very cool, good luck with some upgrades and thanks for sharing!
I just discovered your channel, and I'm so glad I did! From the few videos I've seen so far, it's wonderful. 😀
Mindblowing. Wow. Well done
I really wish I had a reason to build this, I really want one.
Correct me if I am wrong, but body diodes are not suitable kickback diodes, as they are not antiparallel to load. etc. They are in the wrong place.
I don't know what I'm doing... seriously... there is a reason why I put that board in between
OH MY GOD, you are a GOD!!!
12:38 You should create a program to use the hardware as an AOI - checking for polarities or extreme misplacement.
wow!!! home made pick and place machine...GREAT !!! ... i just remember vintage manual DIE ATTACH and WIRE BONDING machines of one of the SEMICON factory i worked... :) :)
5:19 I feel that scream... Happend to my MKS SBASE of my 3d pinter build. Fried the USB port xD
I fried a MKS SBASE too! :D I was trying to connect an endstop when the endstop's + and - wires brushed against each other very briefly and it totally blew up a little SC70 component that I think is a level shifter. Left a surprisingly large skid mark! 😹
I was able to replace the small SMD component and restore usb functionality. Switching to SKR v1.4 anyways. 😂
I found your channel during your very very very very long live stream. Nice to see what went into this, I don't need one but I do want one :-)
Nice summary of the build!
Thanks for the help :-)
Glad its all working now
First of all - it was interesting! That's for sure!
Was it useful? I don't know. I see that the process requires A LOT of manual work to start: place components in the tray, machine aligning, software setup. It was not clear how much time you're spending each time to set up the process, but for me it looks pretty significant.
In the end this machine costs a lot. 1700 Euros! So which production volume will save money versus manual pick and place?
Funny how you start explaining what this machine is about, nearly to the end of the video! Delicious! :D
Can you manually control the pick and place for one-off custom prototype boards as well. i.e. use camera to visually position it, then control suction nozzle to pick up and place it where you visually want to put it? i.e. joystick control? Also, how do you solder paste? Manually with a stencil or does the machine apply paste as well?
when a motor is disconected it gives a reverse polarity high voltage peak, in toy cars the controller were protected by installing a ceramic capacitor directly to the motor, this way when the energy is turned off the reverse polarity colapses with the stored energy in the capacitor protecting the circuit, I wonder if it would work here too?
I know it's already fixed but I wonder if this simpler solution would work too
Thanks for inspiration. Liteplacer looks like great reasonably priced tool for a small workshop :)
Regarding the additional FET board, I would honestly expect this to be an integral part of the board. It should be a fully working kit, shouldn't it? Why would you need to get an additional part? I would expect it to be part of the kit, even if it's an extra board.
Very, very, cool. Thanks for sharing!!
When the machine goes to pick up the next component from a tape, does it use the camera to see where the next full compartment is, or does it just remember which compartment it visited last time and go to the next one along?
Where it visited last time and goes to the next one.
it remembers
Ok. I’m missing the next step in the process. Do you use solder paste and a heat gun to solder the components after placing?
Awesome! Still have my lite placer in the box. My next project, very helpful thanks for sharing
Maybe the right time to unpack this toy
Very cool mini factory setup :)
never seen green flux before, cool!
That was really cool to watch .... and now I'm hungry ..
How do the components get soldered on though?
So if the parts are placed by this machine it's done? Don't they have to be soldered onto the pcb? Could you introduce the
whole assembling process, pls? By the way, saw the 3018 CNC video now i see a slight step up. Whats next space travel?
I am already exited ;)
May be I missed it, but does the machine pulls-up the component reel each time a component is used? This way the robotic arm always goes to the same spot to pick up the compnent. Also a sensor to tell the operator that the reel is about to end.
11:35 I have built the exact-same unwind system. (I think everyone has built the exact-same unwind system. :-) )
Good work.
Oh please, everything else/better would be a total overkill, material- and designwise...
Great walk-through
Great project
Thanks for sharing 👍😁
You are my hero! I want to do this so badly. ( sorry for the odd English syntax ). I am inspired by you so I may try this myself. My girlfriend is going to kill me when I take over a bedroom in which to set this up. 😬. Here in Texas we have no basement in which do do such projects.
I have to say that is really nice man.
Superb work man
What flux did you use? The green one. Thanks!
Hi nice video! Why do you use a ultrasonic cleaner at the end of the video? I know they clean but what do you wanna clean off?
@5:38 when I saw the bag of parts, I said "Nooooo!" Great to see that you were able to fix it. :) Excellent video, too!
I've got a T-Tech Quick Circuit 6000 that I picked up off of eBay for $650. It's lacking pick and place, but maybe not for long... :)
Amazing we are going to try making this machine for our graduation project can you pls give me the name of components and part that you used to bulid this amazing machine
Could you explain what you meant by the component graveyard? did all those go bad or just mixed up?
Great video thanks for sharing. If you go Open PNP which is excellent by the way . Make sure you go Open PNP 2 not 1 otherwise later on you will have to convert settings.
Hey is the microcontroller board have a firmwere?
Can you share your machine settings?
Tx!
I used to work on Fujis things have umm slowed down somewhat. Not exactly a commercial machine but is interesting
Hi there what usb camera do you use for the pick an place, the image is quite impressive, and what software? thx
Very cool. The volumes I deal with need to use the Fuji machines but it's great to see something for small shops available too.
I didn't know it was this easy to mass produce hundreds or thousands of a design yourself :O
I'm surprised the camera they use has a rolling shutter (instead of global shutter) but I guess it keeps the cost down, and the machine still works. You can notice it as the image warps while in motion.
true, it's a basic webcam. works good enough and I'm thankful. otherwise my screw up would be more expensive
Please test OpenPNP Software and then also show how to teak the machine for speed. The first placings looked very slow. But the project looks very cool! Well done (not the magic smoke part ;-)
Thank you for the nice video and congratulations 🎊 🎉 for making it work (including your recovery 🚑)! I guess you have a larger stencil for the PCB that holds all your individual PCBs (as it comes from JLCPCB) to put the solder paste? Very fascinating to watch! Thanks to the steak, I‘m now starving for breakfast 🥞 😅
I found it interesting is an understatement!
How does you machine know the orientation of the part? I'm thinking about a diode placed wrong or an ic, basically ruining all the hard work.
How well does the liteplacer do with your green feeders on clear plastic tape?
Please get some trinamic drivers for that thing it really sounds horrible for anyone used to modern 3D printing...
But nice didn't knew that there is a DIY Pick and Place Machine Kit that you can just buy, always assumed you need to source the stuff yourself.
The current was set too high while I filmed earlier. I reduced the current and it's sounds much healthier now :-)
@@bitluni trinamics silent step is pretty amazing.
All that is left is fan noise... sometimes you wonder if its even plugged in.
It makes a real difference when you are working around the machine.
But man, that sounded really terrifying in your vid...
What is the use cases of that ESP32-Cam and that Cam-prog chip? Is this used in IoT?
Great brother 👍 Nice work done.
i'm surprised the mdf didn't have any unleveled spots. Does the software compensate with a Z mapping of the surface?
How did you place solder paste on ht boards before the PIP?
One question,
what about ESD security from 3D Printed parts?
Pick and place TVM802A is ~$3,000 (shipped) and also does vision. Even if the one in your video is ~$2,000, I'd wonder if all the extra time assembling boards/etc is worth it?
Can you dispense glue with this and make two sided boards out of the one sided board from JLCPCB?
How can I find the controller please?
you can buy the IC's on trays :-)
This reminds me: I want a PnP machine! I have no need for it though, but it is so cool to watch. Nice build log. I saw a lot of it live and I hope the night shifts do not stop ;)
tru
night shifts will go on... so much on the table :-)
What does this assembled PCB do?