Table Top Stain & Clear Coat: Espresso Stain & Gloss Polyurethane (Farmhouse Table series 4 of 5)
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- Опубліковано 16 жов 2021
- Here's video 4 of 5 of this farmhouse style dining table! Be sure to subscribe so you don't miss out on the other upcoming videos of this series!
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Video 1 of 5: • Farmhouse Table Frame ...
Video 2 of 5: • Homeright Super Finish...
Video 3 of 5: • Building a Dining Tabl...
Video 4 of 5 (this video): • Table Top Stain & Clea...
Video 5 of 5: • Table Top attachment w...
Products used in this video (amazon affiliate)
Minwax Espresso stain: amzn.to/3nYQyj7
Minwax Gloss polyurethane: amzn.to/3o2fq9v
Minwax Gloss Wipe-on polyurethane: amzn.to/3CIJdrU
Nitrile gloves: amzn.to/2UAa3Ca
Breath buddy mask: amzn.to/3hsJreD
GoPro Hero 8 Black: amzn.to/3idfFvh
Camera tripod: amzn.to/3tyjgrV
This was filmed with a GoPro Hero 8 Black and edited in iMovie.
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*DISCLAIMER* The following content is for entertainment purposes only. Woodworking and using power tools can be extremely dangerous if not done properly. YOU (the viewer) are fully responsible for understanding proper use of tools, as well as the safety features of each. I highly suggest reading the owners manual and/or watching how-to videos on the tools. I (MMCC_Woodshop) am not responsible nor liable for any injury, death, or handing of the tools you may use, nor do I assume to display the proper handing of as a demonstration. Please use extreme caution when working with any power tools. - Matt
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I will say that this is the most thorough explanation of videos I have found on this process. Your explanation is to a deeper degree than others. Really appreciate this video.
Thanks for the feedback Jason! Glad you found it helpful!
Most of the videos I've seen say something like, you get yer brush, and two of these cans here, spread it, and yer done, like and subscribe, thanks for watching.
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 what tip of brush I'm restaning Birchwood cabinets solid wood lol it's about 40 year old wood but I took it down to ra wood but now I seen this video trying to figure out what tipe of brush to use the polyurethane I'm using is minwax oil modified polyurethane thank you have a blessed day or night
This is exactly what I was looking for thanks
It is essential, but counter intuitive, to lightly sand (220 grit) between topcoats, using your hand. (No machine!) You are looking to produce a uniform haze by the sanding and, after two coats, you will see the magic. Go three or four coats, making certain that each coat dries completely, and you will have a masterwork!
Thanks for the input, i agree 👍🏻
Are you talking about between the coats of stain or poly? (Sorry new to this).
@@ALightOn I believe they mean with the poly because you do NOT want to use a hand or palm sander on top coats because all you want to do is lightly sand off any bubbles or discrepancies. You dont want to dig into the wood because it will show in your top coat (I learned from experience lol).
This is excellent. I'm the stain and finish guy for a small shop here in Idaho called Custom S Carpentry, and I just can't understand why more people don't request gloss coats. They look better, are more visually impactful, have less surface area to potentially oxidize, an are more durable than semis or satins. Average Joe Q. Taxpayer could look at a semi gloss table and not care, but that same table in a gloss would make him say "Holy shit! Lookit that!"
Thanks Sean! Gloss stands out for sure, I like the matte or satin look as well, but I think it depends on the piece. Gloss is probably my most requested finish for my larger dining tables
I just did my bar top and this video was a huge help!! Thank you!!
Nice! Glad it was helpful!
Great tips and looks fantastic man. Time spent on finishing is worth it to get a great looking end product. Like you said don’t miss any steps and a light sanding between finishes is the only way to go.
Thanks man! Sanding in between coats has helped me sooooo much to get a better finish!
Holy shit. You got a mirror finish without buffing. I’m impressed! I gotta try this now
Gloss poly is good stuff!
I've been making a bench for my daughter and she wants it super shiny. I was laying in bed wondering if I could do a wipe on poly on top of the brush on. Lo and behold you answered that very question without me even searching for it. Thank you very much. Now this old granny can finish the bench with a high shine my daughter is wanting.
Nice! Thanks for the feedback and yes, I’ve had great results with the wipe on poly!
Awesome!! I always wondered how your finish looks so great, great tips ill be trying. Thanks
Thanks Jim! Give it a go and good luck!
I am a very new beginner and the first time I sanded I was like...nooo what did I do, but then that next layer....wow! Beautiful table top.
😆 my reaction was similar the first time I ever sanded polyurethane
You must be very pleased with the outcome of the wood+stain+poly combination. Looks wonderful!
Thanks! Yep, very happy with the outcome of this table 👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 maybe I should just go ahead and give you my shipping address…ha!
Just what I needed! THANK YOU! Be Blessed!
Thank you. Great job explaining the process. Beautiful table too.
Thanks Bob!
Beautiful! Thankyou for explaining the sanding part at end, was struggling to understand tin instructions ❤
Thanks for watching and your feedback!
Finally… a video that’s say everything thanks 💯🙏🏻
Thanks! That was my goal 👍🏻
I want to thank you for your video clip, I live in Germany, it inspired me and gave me all the necessary information to be able to restore a solid wood table from the year 1870, my first project. The Minwax Warm Gloss product really worked, no I found it on Amzon Germany and ordered it on another online shopping site from a Supplier from Poland.
You’re welcome and thanks for watching! That sounds like an awesome restoration!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288I wonder if I could send you some pictures of the table and chairs? say your opinion?
Beautiful thanks for the tips. I’ve heard use wipe on for last coat but I’m a beginner. I’ll try it on my next project.
Thanks Josh!
This is beautiful. I've got to use your tips for my dining set. At first I was convinced that I needed epoxy but I see that some poly will do the job just fine.
Thanks for the feedback! Poly has worked excellent in my experience 👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 You're most welcome! You're great and thank you for the video. 😊
@@ieshiaaawon't poly yellow with time?
@@user-kc2ss9gb3e yes-ish. The trick is to use it on a dark piece or even a yellowish piece like raw pine and the yellowing usually goes unnoticed. I definitely wouldn't use it on white painted wood floors. I've seen people be disappointed and go through the headache of refinishing as it will yellow unevenly in some spots as it reacts with the tannins in the wood, like a giant dog took a giant pee on the floor!
Edit: also epoxy, lacquer and shellac can all have that same yellowing effect, some brands more than others on certain types of materials so be careful! Water based stuff won't yellow, but has it's drawbacks as well. Good luck!
LOL, just sanded and stained a Martha Washington antique table in espresso while wearing a lemon yellow T-shirt myself! 😂😂. I didn't get any of it on my clothes either! Phew. Love the video. Thanks for doing this!
😆 nice save! It’s always a good day when the shirt survives!
Yes you are a professional you make everything perfect congratulations i wish you the best God bless you
Thanks Tomas!
Oh wise one, thank you for teaching me your ways! I appreciate you!
Thanks Nicholle, glad it was helpful!
Wow man this is ll I wanted to see.. short video where u went through detailed explanation and not selling or bull shitting at all. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback! 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for sharing your process, looks great.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks., I like how you explain, step by step, and the waiting time for next layer
Thanks for watching!
Beautiful work!
Thank you!
Sir you got a new subscriber well explained and all the info i needed
Thanks Jamie!
Looks awesome, nice work.
Thanks buddy! 👍🏻🤜🏻
Super great result!
Thanks! 👍🏻
That is so beautiful ❤️ Honestly
Thank you!
I love this ! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Beautiful!
Thank you!
Looks nice and very good glossy finish. If I can get that result on my barn style pine door I will be happy.
Thanks! That finish would look awesome on a door 👍🏻
Thank you so much for the video!!! Now, to my table off I go!!!
You’re welcome, good luck with your table!
Beautiful finish, I preferred the matte look on mine after staining w/ Expresso.
Thanks! Matte finishes can look great for sure!
Great video and explainer, it's appreciated.
Thanks! Glad the video was helpful 👍🏻
This looks great thank you very much for the tips.
Thanks James! Glad everything was helpful!
Great video 👍. Very concise and easy to understand. Thanks. Just subbed 👍
Thanks Jack! 👍🏻
Love this! I want to build one now.
Thanks Forrest! Follow along in the previous videos for the entire build process. Give it a go!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 will do!
thanks for showing the steps and the materials used...
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Instead of using a paintbrush, I used the head of a swiffer sweeper that is about 16" X 4" and doubled up a 16" X 16" micro fiber towel instead of the swiffer sweeper pads. For wider projects than mine I have seen microfiber towels up to 24" X 24", or you could get a much larger piece of cloth from a fabric store. Then build your own base to put it on. You can probably use any type of finish you like. I used an oil base top coat over a previously stained wood. I imagine you can do this with stain as well. However I didn't come up with the idea until after I had already done my staining. I poured my top coat directly onto my double layered microfiber towel on the swiffer head and onto another folded over microfiber towel. First I used the 2nd folded towel to apply my top coat to my rounded over edges, overlapping the flat side a little bit, then used the microfiber towel on the swiffer head to go over the flat side. I had almost enough top coat in my microfibre towel to cover a 10' X 11" shelf on both sides. I could tell I was running out of top coat when I got near the end of the 2nd side. I added more top coat to my microfibre and went over that side a second time. The 2 benefits that I could see to this method are 1st and most obvious is that there are no overlapping brush strokes, and 2nd, it is a lot faster because you're only making one pass. I was able to ring out most of the top coat from the towels back into the can, leaving very little waste.
Very cool idea, thanks for sharing 👍🏻 a wider brush will often yield better results, I haven’t tried anything like that though
Awesome work!!!!!🤙🏼💪🏼😎
Thanks Tony!
good point some things i've stained dry fast, others can take a very long time to cure enough to safety apply a finish over the stain. the key as in everything, and i know it can be hard, is to be patient because rushing anything invites problems.
You’re spot on 👍🏻 In my experience the longer you can let it dry the better!
Nice build. Pine is notorious for blotching when stained. If you what to avoid this and have a more uniform finish use a Gel stain (color varnish) or a pre-stain conditioner( a very thin varnish) or a thin coat of shellac.
Thanks David! Great input!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288, I was basically thinking the same thing. Stains seem to flow better when the pre conditioner is added to the process. Sealing it in too is a good idea so it doesn't re flow. I like what you did though.
That is beautiful.
Thanks Deborah!
The only thing I would say is, don’t over look sand an sealer. It will make the finish even better. It will give a super smooth surface before you at your polyurethane. Once applied it will raise the grain just enough for a light sanding and seal small gaps or cracks witch cause bubbles in the finish do to trapped air. Each his own but I highly recommend using it.
Cool, thanks for the tips, I’ll look into it 👍🏻
I would even thin the poly with some Mineral Spirits, or Penetrol which helps it stay wet longer and reduces brush streaks. I've done loads of projects with wipe on poly, it's my preferred method because you never get runs and it's smooth as glass but it takes way longer.
Thank you for sharing great tips.
You’re welcome, thanks for watching!
I always use a pre stainer on the raw wood to allow the stain to go on more evenly and preclude substantial variation in color
Nice! Thanks for the tips and input!
I like the comment about stains being hard to work with. I am currently staining a table top with a carbon gray color and I think I’ve sanded and stained it 100x now. It’s so frustrating. If it wasn’t a garbage veneered oak, I’m sure it would be a little easier. Overall though, good video!!! Definitely helped me!
Thanks for your feedback, working with veneer can certainly be tough!
That is beautiful
Thanks James!
Very, very, nice! Good video for all of us diy people.
I do have a question. I want the protection of a sealer, but my wife isn’t a fan of super shiny. Do you use something different to get a more satin finish, but still have protection?
Yep, you can use satin polyurethane instead of gloss!
Wow great tips
Thanks! 👍🏻
Excellent!!! Thank you.....
Thanks for watching!
But remember, every thing in UA-cam looks Amazing.
👍🏻👍🏻
This is a very useful video, I wish I would've saw this before I stained my butcher block table, it doesn't look that great to me, and there's no going back.
Thanks for watching! It’s never too late to sand it back down to bare wood and redo, I’ve been there several times before!
Great job
Thanks Chris!
Hi! This is a great video! Thank you! Do you use mineral spirits to clean the table after sanding between coats of poly? Also do you do anything to the tabletop after the final wipe-on coat?
Thanks Kathee! Yes, mineral spirits will help remove all the dust, just make sure to let the surface completely dry before the next coat. For your second question, no, just let it dry and it’s ready to go at that point 👍🏻
I raise my Johnny Black to you sir... bravo!
Thanks Jake! 🥃
Do you ever use wood conditioner before staining? Pros/Cons? Love your channel!
Hey Greg! I do occasionally.. I’ll do a comparison video on it sometime and see if the results look any different!
Greetings from Pakistan. Best video ... superb.
Thanks Zeub!
Good job explaining the process, Can you buff after the wipe on poly coat?
I don’t see why not, I haven’t found that to be necessary but I don’t see why it would hurt anything
really nice! Curious as to how end grain on the aprons came out…I find end grain on pine very difficult to finish out nicely….
Thanks! End grain always takes a lot of extra sanding to finish nicely 👍🏻
I understand how to use poly slot better now you've help me spot thanks your friend Phillip white Dublin ga.
Thanks for the feedback, glad it was helpful!
very useful. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
I am refinishing an 8' table made out of pine. The wood is very soft. Does this method create a hard clear finish to protect the wood? Thanks, Bee
It will help a little, there will be an outer shell from the poly that will keep the wood itself from getting stained or scratched by normal use. It won’t stop heavy damage (i.e scratching it with a sharp metal object or hitting it with a hammer) - there’s really no way to prevent that from happening
Great videos i watched the video where you used the homeright sprayer...could someone use the sprayer for the stain and clearcoat of a project?? If so what tips or tricks do you have
I’m not sure about spraying the stain but poly can be and is often sprayed. I’ve never done it personally so I can’t offer much input but ive seen several videos where they spray it 👍🏻
Great vid and thanks for the thorough explanation. One question tho, many youtube vids have said to make sure to wipe the wood stain off after applying it. Did you apply the expresso stain and leave it to dry without wiping it off?
Also could you pls share the brand of the stain you've used?
Thanks! You can do either - if you put too much stain on, it’s fine to wipe off. I try to wipe of any excess when I’m actually staining it before letting it dry. Try to wait as long as possible for the stain to dry. I used Minwax stain in this video 👍🏻
Thank you 🙏
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
It worked very well for me. I wanted to attach the video I took but couldn't figure out how.
Nice, glad it worked out! Not sure on the video attachment part either!
Very nice
Thanks Cathy!
Thanks for sharing this video. Would the poly stain be a good solution if I wanted to restain a tabletop for a restaurant that gets wiped down a lot?
Sure, I can’t imagine that it would hurt anything. Make sure the surface is completely clean prior to applying any poly 👍🏻
My first couple base coats looked good and shiny. I then tried the wipe on poly and the whole table was a full finish. Wet sanded and put another coat on thinking it would be the last coat but, I have an area of about 2-1/2’x1-4” that is full and the rest is shiny.
Is that maybe because I did not mix well before use?
Hmmm, I’ve never had the wipe on finish turn out dull. I don’t wet sand though since the poly and water typically won’t mix. You might have trapped some moisture if it wasn’t dry.. I would dry sand the top, clean with mineral spirits, let dry completely, and then try another last coat of poly. Hopefully it turns out okay!
Thanks, I didn’t even think of that.
The whole table was dull, whatever I did last time was better but, that spot I was talking about. I will try it out and thanks for the feedback and your videos.
Excellent video! May I ask why you didn't use a pre-stain wood conditioner? was this not needed?
Thanks! No reason at all really, I use the pre stain from time to time and it does help making everything look uniform 👍🏻
Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi this is an excellent job. What kind of stain did you use ? Was it oil base ? What kind of wood were you working on ? What other kind of wood I can apply this ? Can I apply it on plywood ?
Thanks! It’s Minwax espresso, oil based (there’s a link to the product in the description). This top was southern yellow pine. You can apply it to any type of wood, and yes you can apply it to plywood
Im seeing other guys use a smaller grit and they are wet sanding it. One guy then buffed it using car polish from the auto store and a buffer. I appreciate your video. I feel you added good info to my project.
Thanks for the feedback 👍🏻 I haven’t personally tried that, but would be curious on how it would stand up to water/soap/lysol/etc over time. It might work great 🤷🏻♂️
What type of brush do you use to apply poly? And does it matter how fast you brush it on? (As far as bubbles go)
I’ve found that foam project brushes work better - get a wider brush (4”) if you can find them.
Yes, slowing down will help to reduce the bubbles 👍🏻
Hi! Thanks for the video. I'm preparing to put on the final coat of poly, do you sand in between the base coats and the final wipe on? Thanks!
Yep! Lightly sand before that last wipe on coat goes on 👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 thank you! Super excited to finish my office desk top, it’s my first experience wood working and it’s a ton of fun
You’re welcome and good luck with your desk!
Hi!
Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer.
The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer.
I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer.
But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin.
What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
How long to wait in between the poly coats and should we sand with 220 or 400 before the first coat of poly?
I wait 24hrs between poly coats. I sand the wood to usually only 150, then stain, wait until it’s dry and then poly. Sand each poly coat with 400 before moving to the next coat.
Did you sand before staining the table? Thanx for the vid, much appreciated.
Yes, I always sand between 120-220 grit depending on the stain/finish I’ll be using 👍🏻
what kind of rag do you use for the wipe on poly?
I use cheesecloth but any rag that doesn’t shed will work fine. Cotton t shirt cut offs work well also
I used the water based poly of the same brand and it's nowhere as glossy as this? Do you think i can put the final coat of wipe on poly on the 3 water based coats. Great work. Thanks!!
Yes, you should be able to as long as the previous coats are completely cured 👍🏻
Great job! Using water based gloss poly will get the same results?
Thanks! Yes, you should get a similar end result 👍🏻
Hello Matt. I have a bench with our Last name and paint design on the border. What is the best clear coat to use to not damage the design on the wood?
Hi Dario, honestly I can’t make a recommendation as I’m not comfortable being certain a product wouldn’t ruin your piece. Polycrylic is typically more mild than polyurethane, I would recommend trying on of those on a scrap piece similar to the bench, and seeing if there is a desired effect.
Great video Matt. Love the colour. I'm looking at doing a little project soon with a similar looking stain. Do you seal the bottom as well as the top with polyurethane?
That's what I keep wondering.
I normally don’t do anything to the bottom, I’ve never heard back any issues from not doing the bottoms. I don’t see any reason why would shouldn’t if you’d want, it just takes more time and materials 👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 thanks for clearing that up
When you say 400grit sand paper, is that euro P400 or regular 400 such as what you would get at Canadian tire? Would someone ever get glass/ring marks with this type of finish? How long would you wait before using this with cups etc. after the last coat of poly was applied?
It's just regular dry use sandpaper, I got mine from Lowe's but any hardware store should work. Here's a link on amazon which is similar to what I used: amzn.to/3QapOaj
It's best to use a coaster of course but I have my kitchen island coated with poly; a wet glass will leave a mark until it dries and then there's no mark at all. I usually give everything a week to fully cure before I call it safe to use on, although it probably doesn't take that long.
It's just regular dry use sandpaper, I got mine from Lowe's but any hardware store should work. Here's a link on amazon which is similar to what I used: amzn.to/3QapOaj
It's best to use a coaster of course but I have my kitchen island coated with poly; a wet glass will leave a mark until it dries and then there's no mark at all. I usually give everything a week to fully cure before I call it safe to use on, although it probably doesn't take that long.
It's just regular dry use sandpaper, I got mine from Lowe's but any hardware store should work. Here's a link on amazon which is similar to what I used: amzn.to/3QapOaj
It's best to use a coaster of course but I have my kitchen island coated with poly; a wet glass will leave a mark until it dries and then there's no mark at all. I usually give everything a week to fully cure before I call it safe to use on, although it probably doesn't take that long.
Exelent video 😮
How can I remove that kind of glossy poly? Sanding or some kind of remover? Thank you in avance
Thanks, the only way I know to remove the glossy finish is sanding, more than likely you’ll end up sanding through the stain as well.
, hey I am doing a table in black flat stain and need to know what I can seal it with to keep the flat black look. You know how kids are when they're eaten cereal and spill their milk on top of the table, I want to make sure I can clean it up without staining
If you can find matte polyurethane that would be my recommendation. Satin would work well too, but there is a bit more sheen with a satin finish than matte
Im planning to try it on a smooth piece of mango wood varnish( optional) but i preferred dark one, and that gloss, but im not sure ..do i need to apply a sand sealer, i just wanted to look it hi glosz
I would probably just try the gloss polyurethane. You could always try it on a scrap piece prior and see how it turns out
Thanks for a great to the point video! Anxious to try the poly finishes, can I use those over a water based stain? Already stained before I found your video, thank you!
Thanks Brenda! Yes, you can, just make sure the stain has had plenty of time to dry. I try to let the stain at least 3-4 days before the moving on to the poly
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Thank you so much!
Maybe a stupid question lol.. however do people poly outside cedar chairs? Would that work or no?
I’m not sure honestly, cedar is good for outdoor use. I would probably use a deck type sealer like Thompsons brand or something similar, but I personally have no experience with doing so
What is your thought process for keeping your table top from worping?
Breadboards on the end, using dry/stable lumber, attaching the top with clips to allow for expansion without internal stress, milling lumber properly to S4S with good joint seams all help. The best piece of advice is to start with quality lumber that has been properly dried - quarter or rift sawn options are the best if you can find them.
nice build and a great video! have you tried using polyurethane on the HomeRight Paint Sprayer?
I haven’t.. I never wanted to risk not getting it cleaned and ruined for paint. I have read that they work well with poly though
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 thanks
That looks awesome! I was sure you used the spray gun on that finish! Well done brother!
Thanks man! 👍🏻🙏🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 What kind of brush did you use? I recently finished up a desktop for my home studio and used Varathanes water based semi gloss. And a bristle rush... I can still see slight bristle marks...
@Joey.Darkwoods-Studio I’ve switched to using foam brushes now, I try to get the widest ones I can find (usually 4”)
Can i do this the same way for my bed frame I’m making??
Yep, the same process will work perfectly!
Great video i hope you can help me. I recently painted my table, and after i used a clear stainer in a tin with a brush. But its left brush marks and looks terrible.
Not sure if i should apply more coats but its set now, How do i fix this. Your advice would be appreciated
I’d try gently sanding down into the clear coat with 400 (or similar grit) to remove the brush strokes, then apply multiple coats on top, sanding in between each
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 thank you I will try that many thanks again
great explanation and step by step.
Did you also poly the bottom? im reading a lot of contradictory information here and there. Seems finishing (shellac or poly) equal coats on all sides came about in the 1970s while the prior decades and centuries only the top and sides were finished.
Hope to hear you thoughts. :)
Yep, the bottom should have poly applied as well to equalize moisture absorption/loss from the air 👍🏻
Did you sand one last time after the final poly before putting on the wipe on poly?
Yes, thats correct 👍🏻
That table looks amazing! By using three coats of polyurethane and not the wipe on polyurethane will all this stop watering marks?
Thanks Becca! Yes, polyurethane is usually good for resisting water spots 👍🏻
Very nice video, thanks
Where I can buy and how this can looks?
Thanks! Here’s a link to the product!
Minwax Gloss polyurethane: amzn.to/3o2fq9v
Do you sand the last coat before the wipe on poly?
Yep! I sand every time in between coats