This is easily the best video that I've seen on how (and the why's ) to stain and finish, and I've watched many. I appreciate the time and effort put in to do this so well. Excellent. Thanks!
Good video! Ive been searching for ever just to find a video that reallly does explain what to do. Most for some reason dont do that. I found one other video and did my laundry room butcher block and its like glass. So pretty. Good video people listen to him lol
Beautiful! I just ordered the True Black. Looking forward using it on my pedestal dining table. I'll go for a satin finish though. Thanks for sharing. Your Video made my decision much easier.
Perfect timing! I’m finishing my man cave bar top with True Black and will be following these steps!! I’m sanding right now and hope to get to this step by the weekend! Great tips and looks amazing!!
Hi again. The stain has just arrived (living in Germany it's not that easy to find this stuff) and I tested it on a small piece of wood. Wow, the coverage is amazing! Even one coat looks awesome. I am so happy, because this saved me a lot of money. I almost ordered the Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2c for 4 times as expensive. Again, thank you so much for this video!
Glad it worked out! Rubio looks great, but Rubio is a hassle to get a black finish - you have to use the pre color, then the 2c oil, then black maintenance oil. It quickly turns into a $200-$300 expense to get a true black finish with Rubio. This way (in the video) is much more cost effective 👍🏻
Nice build man! I've used this exact same polyurethane and love it! I picked up a tip from Mark over at The Wood Whisper years ago, to dilute the minwax poly with 25% mineral spirits to make your own cheap wipe on poly. I apply with a rag and lightly sand with a grey scotch brite pad between coats. I usually do 4-6 coats, waiting 4 hours in between. After the last coat if needed, I wet sand lightly with a 2000-2500 grit for a baby smooth finish! I only use matt finish, so not sure how it would look with a gloss.
Dude that black looks great🤘 I started mixing my Polly with mineral spirits, I think it's a 2:1 mix (2 parts Polly 1 part mineral spirits... I think lol) and I apply it with a good lint free rag. Light sand between coats. Turns out real smooth, and easier to apply
It’s certainly possible, but not necessary IMO. The beeswax won’t adhere to the poly, I would imagine wax is a much better top coat for a true oil finish (linseed oil, mineral oil, etc)
It’s attached with drawbore mortise and tenon joinery, otherwise it would. It allows for the mid section to expand and contract, while still keeping the breadboard pinned tightly inward 👍🏻
Very helpful video! I am going for my fourth coat of poly on a big surface-high gloss oil based finish. I have brushed on 3 coats of Old Masters, all get bubbles which I sand off. Can I wipe on with the Minwax wipe-on poly? Both oil based high gloss. I don’t know if the different brands are compatible. I need no bubbles in my final finish! Thanks!
I would think you should be able to, just make sure they’re both either oil based or water based. Definitely make sure you have the surface clean before you move on to the wipe on poly 👍🏻
For a white table, I would probably use a wax/oil combo product like natura onecoat or Rubio monocoat, or a whitewash product if the grain is to show. Polyurethane can yellow some over time with the lighter colors, so I would probably advise against this method for a white table 👍🏻
Using mineral spirits in your best bet, if it’s not an option just get a clean towel and wipe off as much dust as you can making sure you don’t leave any streaks or piles of excess dust
@LivandCreate I wouldn’t recommend either, but that’s because I’ve never used them personally. I would be concerned they might leave streaks or discoloration when they’ve dried. Again, I’ve not tried either before
@LivandCreate I've used neither also but just fyi the two options you mention are way different. Rubbing alcohol is pretty mild and probably a safe option to try in hidden area. Nail Polish Remover is Acetone and will dissolve/destroy most materials. Also remember Mineral Spirits is only for Oil Based, Water Based use water. I think a slightly water damped cloth will pick up the dust for either, the use of Mineral Spirits I'm guessing is just so it evaporates avoiding trouble with people applying oil based over a overly wet still damp with water surface.
I cut my poly with spirits but seem to get occasional lines every layer i add (1000 sand between coats), and visible with lght hitting it (garage windows) but looks great from other angles. It seems to dry fast in places....or maybe i am not using the proper rag to wipe it across :) Last layer i used a brush. I use canned oil-based Poly.... thoughts on how to avoid the spotty occasional lines? (Should mention this in on a lightly sanded ~60 year old maple table top.) Assume I need to let it cure 30 days before use also.
I’ve heard of using mineral spirits to thin but I’ve never tried it personally. The issues you’ve mentioned are the exact reason I usually try a wipe on poly for the very last coat. I would wonder if the lines you mentioned are due to the mineral spirits, maybe not being thoroughly mixed 🤔
Sure, polyurethane would work fine on a countertop (assuming it’s made from wood). I wouldn’t recommend putting it over granite, quartz, laminate, etc.
Thanks! The strength/effectiveness depends on how many coats are used. My kitchen island is wood with 5 coats of poly - I’ve absolutely abused it and it still looks great. The water marks show but fade as the water dries
Thanks for your commentary on the drying time. I thought I did something wrong when my project wasn't dry after leaving it overnight. Three questions...1. what gloss level was your polyurethane; 2. where did you get your syringe; and 3. does your table have a particle board core?
Definitely have to give it enough time to dry. I used ‘gloss’ (full gloss) Minwax poly. The syringe came from Amazon. This was a solid oak table top (no particle board).
Does temp matter when using polyurethane? I'm trying to use that same Minwax Fast-Drying stuff, and it seems that I may have to resand the entire table down again and start over. I've got bubbles and an uneven finish. Definitely not shiny, or smooth, and its only my second time using this stuff.
The only thing I’ve noticed temperature related is that it tends to dry faster when it’s warm. Haven’t had any trouble with bubbles due to heat or cold.
My wife and I just picked this color to stain our cabinets in our new house we're building right now. But what we're trying to figure out is if we do this ourselves or let our builder's painter do it, he uses a sprayer and we're not sure how it's going to turn out. I've tested some boards myself with this and have liked it, we're trying to hide the red oak grain so it's not so busy looking. From my testing I know if we wiped basically right after applying the stain, a little bit of brown would show through so our best results have been waiting like 10min before wiping. Problem is I'm not sure the painter is going to wait before he wipes off excess but we want the true black to show. Any idea what the difference would be with using a sprayer vs wiping on? Also, is there any difference in sanding before applying the stain. Sorry for the long post.
I’m not sure of any difference between spraying and brushing. One thing with black is that you absolutely have to let it fully dry before any clear coat, otherwise the clear coat will pull it back out. It can be tough (nearly impossible) to hide the grain of oak unless you get into some really extensive clear coating
Thanks James! I think the brown tone was actually due to the reflection of the ceiling (ceiling is brown from insulation facing) on the highly reflective gloss. This was jet black in person. I’d definitely takes two coats of stain to get the black finish though!
Sure, you can… The surface will just be much more susceptible to scratches and stains without a protective coat. If that’s not a concern then it’ll be fine 👍🏻
Looks awesome. I will look forward to using a black color on something. On smaller pieces I can keep most bubbles from forming by using a good brush going fairly slow. If i do any surfaces near as big as your table, i will surely follow your steps. I believe your way could be better than spraying considering the number of steps where boo boos can happen. Much obliged.
One of the few videos that advises to give ample dry time to stain or paint *before* apply a top coat. So many videos give the impression that you can apply top coat hours after the last coat or even just a day. Rushing will just end up with major disappointment. Key is patience.
You can do either. Certainly don’t allow an excess (like a puddle) amount of stain to sit - wipe that off. I usually apply the stain and then slowly wipe with the grain to avoid streaks and puddles before allowing the stain to dry.
Stop using disposable foam brushes for topcoats, especially on a large surface such as this. Get yourself a better applicator! Or a worthwhile brush. The chances of shedding with cheap foam increases significantly with use. Even a roller with a nice foam nap (for cabinets) would have been exponentially better than what was used here.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, I’ve personally had better luck using foam brushes than a nice paint brush. From my experience, brushes leave steaks and rollers leave a very rough surface. Personal preference may differ for everyone 👍🏻
im in the middle of layering my table with polyurethane and found this very helpful. thank you!
Awesome, glad the video was helpful!
This is easily the best video that I've seen on how (and the why's ) to stain and finish, and I've watched many. I appreciate the time and effort put in to do this so well. Excellent. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback! 🙏🏻👍🏻
That’s the end result I want on my floors. Good stuff very informative
Thanks, glad you found it helpful!
I really appreciate that you did a great job explaining each step, so many videos assume you know the middle steps. Thank you.
Thanks for the great feedback and for watching! 👍🏻
My gosh! That looks AWESOME!!
Thank you! This one turned out excellent 👍🏻
Awesome finish. Definitely picked up some pointers
Thanks Jim!
Good video! Ive been searching for ever just to find a video that reallly does explain what to do. Most for some reason dont do that. I found one other video and did my laundry room butcher block and its like glass. So pretty. Good video people listen to him lol
Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
Beautiful! I just ordered the True Black. Looking forward using it on my pedestal dining table. I'll go for a satin finish though. Thanks for sharing. Your Video made my decision much easier.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful and good luck with your project! 👍🏻
Perfect timing! I’m finishing my man cave bar top with True Black and will be following these steps!! I’m sanding right now and hope to get to this step by the weekend! Great tips and looks amazing!!
Thanks Josh! Good luck with the bar! 👍🏻
Hi again. The stain has just arrived (living in Germany it's not that easy to find this stuff) and I tested it on a small piece of wood. Wow, the coverage is amazing! Even one coat looks awesome. I am so happy, because this saved me a lot of money. I almost ordered the Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2c for 4 times as expensive. Again, thank you so much for this video!
Glad it worked out! Rubio looks great, but Rubio is a hassle to get a black finish - you have to use the pre color, then the 2c oil, then black maintenance oil. It quickly turns into a $200-$300 expense to get a true black finish with Rubio.
This way (in the video) is much more cost effective 👍🏻
Nice build man! I've used this exact same polyurethane and love it! I picked up a tip from Mark over at The Wood Whisper years ago, to dilute the minwax poly with 25% mineral spirits to make your own cheap wipe on poly. I apply with a rag and lightly sand with a grey scotch brite pad between coats. I usually do 4-6 coats, waiting 4 hours in between. After the last coat if needed, I wet sand lightly with a 2000-2500 grit for a baby smooth finish! I only use matt finish, so not sure how it would look with a gloss.
Thanks! Appreciate the tip - I’ll have to give that a shot. Mark has some great videos for sure!
Very helpful, many thanks
Thanks for the feedback!
Dude that black looks great🤘
I started mixing my Polly with mineral spirits, I think it's a 2:1 mix (2 parts Polly 1 part mineral spirits... I think lol) and I apply it with a good lint free rag. Light sand between coats. Turns out real smooth, and easier to apply
Thanks Rab! I’ve heard of doing that, but never gave it a try. I’ll have to experiment with it at some point!
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 it made a big difference in my finishes. Worth experimenting
Thank You very informative , great job on teaching your class please
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
So detailed in your explanation! Thank you! Subscribed!
Also, what type of durability does this withstand? TIA
Thanks!
Poly is relatively durable and should hold up to normal wear and tear 👍🏻 multiple coats will help with durability
looks good man!
Thanks!
This but in butcher block thickness would look awesome on my new gray and black toolbox
That would be cool!
Awesome video thank you. Would you say everything you showed here could be applied to birch plywood?
Thanks! Yes, you could go the exact same thing 👍🏻
Would this work on any species of wood? I’m assuming some wood would just need more coats? I have builder grade cabinets I would love to do this on
Yep, it should work fine on any wood surface 👍🏻
I like that nice and shinny thats what I want but have a question is it possible to beeswax after this ?
It’s certainly possible, but not necessary IMO. The beeswax won’t adhere to the poly, I would imagine wax is a much better top coat for a true oil finish (linseed oil, mineral oil, etc)
Thinking about doing this with pine. Your thoughts please. Thanks, Dan
I’ve made plenty of table tops with pine, pine is drastically softer than any oak/ash/hardwood species but it will do fine for a table top 👍🏻
Doesn't that cross grain on the ends wreak havoc with expansion?
It’s attached with drawbore mortise and tenon joinery, otherwise it would. It allows for the mid section to expand and contract, while still keeping the breadboard pinned tightly inward 👍🏻
Very helpful video! I am going for my fourth coat of poly on a big surface-high gloss oil based finish. I have brushed on 3 coats of Old Masters, all get bubbles which I sand off. Can I wipe on with the Minwax wipe-on poly? Both oil based high gloss. I don’t know if the different brands are compatible. I need no bubbles in my final finish! Thanks!
I would think you should be able to, just make sure they’re both either oil based or water based. Definitely make sure you have the surface clean before you move on to the wipe on poly 👍🏻
Happy New Year 🎉. I forgot to ask... Did you use a pre stain conditioner before staining?
Back at ya! I didn’t on this one, I have nothing against pre stain, just didn’t feel it necessary for this 👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Thanks for your quick answer. Think so too. There are obviously no issues with blotchiness 😉
Do you think you can show us an example of a white table?
For a white table, I would probably use a wax/oil combo product like natura onecoat or Rubio monocoat, or a whitewash product if the grain is to show. Polyurethane can yellow some over time with the lighter colors, so I would probably advise against this method for a white table 👍🏻
Is there any way I can clean the dust off without mineral spirits? I’m on a lil budget.
Using mineral spirits in your best bet, if it’s not an option just get a clean towel and wipe off as much dust as you can making sure you don’t leave any streaks or piles of excess dust
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 thank you! In your best opinion, do you think rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover would work?
@LivandCreate I wouldn’t recommend either, but that’s because I’ve never used them personally. I would be concerned they might leave streaks or discoloration when they’ve dried. Again, I’ve not tried either before
@LivandCreate I've used neither also but just fyi the two options you mention are way different. Rubbing alcohol is pretty mild and probably a safe option to try in hidden area. Nail Polish Remover is Acetone and will dissolve/destroy most materials. Also remember Mineral Spirits is only for Oil Based, Water Based use water. I think a slightly water damped cloth will pick up the dust for either, the use of Mineral Spirits I'm guessing is just so it evaporates avoiding trouble with people applying oil based over a overly wet still damp with water surface.
I cut my poly with spirits but seem to get occasional lines every layer i add (1000 sand between coats), and visible with lght hitting it (garage windows) but looks great from other angles. It seems to dry fast in places....or maybe i am not using the proper rag to wipe it across :) Last layer i used a brush. I use canned oil-based Poly.... thoughts on how to avoid the spotty occasional lines? (Should mention this in on a lightly sanded ~60 year old maple table top.) Assume I need to let it cure 30 days before use also.
I’ve heard of using mineral spirits to thin but I’ve never tried it personally. The issues you’ve mentioned are the exact reason I usually try a wipe on poly for the very last coat. I would wonder if the lines you mentioned are due to the mineral spirits, maybe not being thoroughly mixed 🤔
great video... thank you!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Do you use a new foam brush for each poly layer or store it in baggy and use same one?
Thanks! I use a new brush each time to avoid the hassle of cleaning them. They’re cheap when purchased in bulk 👍🏻
thanks, had 2 on hand for current project but ordered some more in bulk, definitely worth the convenience!@@mmcc_woodshop6288
Would you recommend this same technique and materials for a kitchen countertop? Or would you have other recommendations?
Sure, polyurethane would work fine on a countertop (assuming it’s made from wood).
I wouldn’t recommend putting it over granite, quartz, laminate, etc.
How would you get more of a satin finish?
There’s different types of poly - this was gloss. You’d just get the satin version of polyurethane instead of the high gloss version 👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 Cheers :)
What did you use to apply the stain? Cheesecloth too?
Any type of cloth that doesn’t shed will work. I use old cut up t.shirts.
How long are you waiting between poly coats?
Roughly 24hrs
Very Nice! How strong will the final finish be? And will it be resistant to water marks if someone neglects to use a coaster? Thanks!
Thanks! The strength/effectiveness depends on how many coats are used. My kitchen island is wood with 5 coats of poly - I’ve absolutely abused it and it still looks great. The water marks show but fade as the water dries
This is so helpful, thank you ! How long do you wait for the polyurethane to dry before sanding and adding a new coat ?
Glad it was helpful! I usually wait until the same time the next day to sand and move on to the next coat 👍🏻
@@mmcc_woodshop6288 thanks so much !
Is the stain oil based?
Yes 👍🏻
Did you wait a full 4 or 5 days before applying your second coat of stain?
I waited 2 days after the first coat prior to applying a second 👍🏻
Thanks. I was unsure because after 4 days I’m still picking up grayish-black “dust.”
Great video. It saved my project. How long did you wait between applying the top coats?
Thanks! I usually wait ~24ish hours or so in between coats 👍🏻
Thanks for your commentary on the drying time. I thought I did something wrong when my project wasn't dry after leaving it overnight.
Three questions...1. what gloss level was your polyurethane; 2. where did you get your syringe; and 3. does your table have a particle board core?
Definitely have to give it enough time to dry.
I used ‘gloss’ (full gloss) Minwax poly. The syringe came from Amazon. This was a solid oak table top (no particle board).
Did the stain raise the grain and would u sand then before the poly?? Great video btw
I’ve never had an issue with stain raising the grain. I don’t sand after staining unless you’re wanting a distressed finish
@@mmcc_woodshop6288
Thanks for the reply appreciate that. Awesome job!!
Does temp matter when using polyurethane? I'm trying to use that same Minwax Fast-Drying stuff, and it seems that I may have to resand the entire table down again and start over. I've got bubbles and an uneven finish. Definitely not shiny, or smooth, and its only my second time using this stuff.
The only thing I’ve noticed temperature related is that it tends to dry faster when it’s warm. Haven’t had any trouble with bubbles due to heat or cold.
My wife and I just picked this color to stain our cabinets in our new house we're building right now. But what we're trying to figure out is if we do this ourselves or let our builder's painter do it, he uses a sprayer and we're not sure how it's going to turn out. I've tested some boards myself with this and have liked it, we're trying to hide the red oak grain so it's not so busy looking. From my testing I know if we wiped basically right after applying the stain, a little bit of brown would show through so our best results have been waiting like 10min before wiping. Problem is I'm not sure the painter is going to wait before he wipes off excess but we want the true black to show. Any idea what the difference would be with using a sprayer vs wiping on? Also, is there any difference in sanding before applying the stain. Sorry for the long post.
I’m not sure of any difference between spraying and brushing. One thing with black is that you absolutely have to let it fully dry before any clear coat, otherwise the clear coat will pull it back out.
It can be tough (nearly impossible) to hide the grain of oak unless you get into some really extensive clear coating
Great video!
Thank you!
Great info. Even though it is a black stain it looks like there is a brown tone to it. Is that due to the wood you used?
Thanks James! I think the brown tone was actually due to the reflection of the ceiling (ceiling is brown from insulation facing) on the highly reflective gloss. This was jet black in person. I’d definitely takes two coats of stain to get the black finish though!
Have you ever added penitrol to your stains?
Nope, I’m not familiar at all with using penitrol.
THANK YOU!!
Can I just go over a regular desk with the black stain and call it a day without using polly
Sure, you can… The surface will just be much more susceptible to scratches and stains without a protective coat. If that’s not a concern then it’ll be fine 👍🏻
Did you poly the bottom?
Yes, I do a coat on the bottom before flipping it over and doing the top 👍🏻
Looks awesome. I will look forward to using a black color on something. On smaller pieces I can keep most bubbles from forming by using a good brush going fairly slow. If i do any surfaces near as big as your table, i will surely follow your steps. I believe your way could be better than spraying considering the number of steps where boo boos can happen. Much obliged.
Thanks for watching and the feedback! Good point on the larger surfaces! 👍🏻
Why use the wipe on instead of just finishing with the brush on?
There’s much less chance of bubbles or streaking with the wipe on poly for the final coat 👍🏻
Thanks for this video man, making a desktop
Thanks for watching, glad it was helpful and enjoy your build!
One of the few videos that advises to give ample dry time to stain or paint *before* apply a top coat. So many videos give the impression that you can apply top coat hours after the last coat or even just a day. Rushing will just end up with major disappointment. Key is patience.
This is 100% accurate. I always wait at least 3-4 days and often up to a week before moving onto the clear coat 👍🏻
Can I ask how long you leave it between coats of polyurethane?
@slawsonscot usually about 24hrs
Sorry new to wood works. Why many video i saw, they wiped the stain after applying it? But you didnt. Explain pls
You can do either. Certainly don’t allow an excess (like a puddle) amount of stain to sit - wipe that off.
I usually apply the stain and then slowly wipe with the grain to avoid streaks and puddles before allowing the stain to dry.
I had a feeling my stain did not have enough dry time... yikes we will see!
Yep, definitely essential to make sure the layer is dry before moving on to the next step 👍🏻
What happens if it's not fully dry before applying the poly? Like what _would_ the difference be if you only waited 4 hours like the can says
Always pull out
Good video. Wear a respirator though, dawg! That stuff's nasty bro.
Thanks for the reminder!
Cherry👍🏽🍒
👍🏻👍🏻
It Says 4 Hours On The Can? I Think You're Mixing Up Second Coat and Top Coat. LOL!
Haha, I might have been. Regardless, I think it's helpful to let the stain sit as long as possible before moving on the the clear coat.
Stop using disposable foam brushes for topcoats, especially on a large surface such as this. Get yourself a better applicator! Or a worthwhile brush. The chances of shedding with cheap foam increases significantly with use. Even a roller with a nice foam nap (for cabinets) would have been exponentially better than what was used here.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, I’ve personally had better luck using foam brushes than a nice paint brush. From my experience, brushes leave steaks and rollers leave a very rough surface. Personal preference may differ for everyone 👍🏻
Great video, but find it very odd you're not using any breathing apparatus - lots of toxic stuff there you're breathing in =\
I most likely had my garage doors open for ventilation… but thanks for the reminder to be more cautious!
You have heavy taste😂
No arguments here! 😆
Ur name is Matt, so stop doing these disgusting gloss finishes. U can't gloss everything.
😂😂
This is so helpful, thank you ! How long do you wait for the polyurethane to dry before sanding and adding a new coat ?
Glad it was helpful! I usually wait until the same time the next day to sand and move on to the next coat 👍🏻