First CNC Production Run! - Part 1
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2021
- IT WORKS!!! It's been almost a year since the first ideas of this exact project started bouncing around in my head but it's finally making holds! I had one part shift on me but all in all it was an extremely successful machining operation. This thing made a stupid amount of dust which tells me that for full production run of 28 parts, I'm going to have to be even smarter with my approach to taking frequent stops for clearing out the dust. I may look into some creative solutions for perimeter dust collection & something to help keep the dust from collecting on the belts & rails.
The video was getting long so I split it into two parts, subscribe and hit the notification bell to be sure you see it when it's done! Thanks!
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My name is Austin and I’ve always enjoyed building things. My childhood Christmas stockings were filled with bulk supplies of scotch tape so I didn’t use up all of my moms as I made various paper lightsabers and more. The things I wanted to build grew to be too complex for scotch tape and trial and error so I decided to study Mechanical Engineering to better understand how to make things. I specialized in mechatronics and manufacturing and I’m now about ready to graduate so I’m putting my education to work by building all the projects I haven’t had the time to do while in school. From climbing holds to signs and many other projects, I’m going to bring you along the journey through each build, and show you how I go about making everything I want to make. I hope it inspires you to get out there and build things and gives you a chuckle or two along the way. Thanks for watching!
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Equipment:
CNC Machine: Carbide 3D - Shapeoko Pro XXL
Tooling:
Roughing ⅜ Coated Carbide Endmill: www.lakeshorecarbide.com/38lo...
⅜ Coated Carbide Ball Endmill:
www.lakeshorecarbide.com/38ro...
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#CNC #Shapeoko #Carbide3D #Milling #DIY #HighEfficiencyMilling - Навчання та стиль
Conventional cut for roughing, climb cut for finish!
On a manual mill yes. On a cnc no. You have control of feeds and speeds, the machine can't drive it self and if you conventional cut you put the heat into the tool not the chip. When you climb mill you put less heat, load and wear on your cutters.
Wow!!! You’re brilliant. Amen.
Count down...10 hrs! I'm ready to watch this thing go get it!! (I'm in process of setting up my pro XXL, enclosure to come...)
I've also got a Speedy 300 CO2 laser, we should do a colab and engrave these things with your brand.
get that enclosure going! just finished mine and its amazing!
I like this guy's energy subd
Thanks!
I usually use a GOTO command in the code to skip a section, they can be dangerous though. So watch where you put it to end. I usually end it right before a Z clearance plane move.
Thanks! I might make a day of those and see what I can do.
DUDE you built a vacuum system into your CNC enclosure! Add a Y and a covered port on the front!
Good job
Thanks!
You need the sweepy from Carbide.
I actually have one, but it can't be used on a part this deep as the bristles and vacuum are virtually useless.
Just a quick suggestion. It looks like you are using fusion cam. I would recommend putting a patch over the mounting hole to allow your finishing passes cut in a more continuous pattern. It will probably knock down your cycle time a bit and give a more consistent surface finish.
Thanks I think that might work! I'm new to fusion so I'll take any and all advice I can get!
@@AustinConrad I assume you already found this, but NYC CNC is an awesome channel for learning fusion cam. That is where I learned the patch trick.
You can try Candle or similar G-Code senders instead of carbide motion. cncjs is also an option.
You have a lot more control and visuals of your gcode as well as your machine.
At least it works great with the Nomad machine.
Thank you! I'll look into that.
Really like your journey! you made a great product and developed a nice process. I make some products in volume that i think might help a little.
If you use two L brackets and three toggle clamps per board, you can place two full boards parallel to your x axis, you will just need to have the machine bore the center holes, install your cap screws, then slide toggle clamps back from your workpiece (most common way is to have a piece of t slot but if you want to be fancy, you can use an mgn 12 rail and carriage, the bolt pattern fits most standard light duty toggle clamps). this would eliminate your drill press work and cutting work, you could also set
If i were to do what you are doing, i would get a piece of mdf or melamine and make a little fixture board that locates with dowel pins, leave your hardware mounted to it and just remove the fixture when you run something else we typically do this with locating pins and vacuum on large industrial machines
If you are working in fusion, it has a handy interface for saving fixtures for visual reference and fitup, it also shows you if you will run into a hiccup when patterning a toolpath.
I would likely leave a very tiny tab connecting the string of holds to prevent them from rotating too but i guess that's a good risk vs benefit analysis.
Sorry this is so long, hopefully it didn't waste your time but you've gained a sub!
Thanks! I'm working on a variation of that for a first opp using toggle clamps to eliminate the drill press work and hopefully open up under cut holds as a possibility.
Nice video... Looks like someone need to upgrade the dust collection LOL.... Thank you for sharing... Quick question what collect do I need for 3/8 bits?
Hi Carlos, if you're using the shapeoko stock router its compatible with the makita 3/8" collet:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000808IBU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@AustinConrad OK OK thank you...
Amazing！You used pine. It’s easy to process
Actually this was Douglas Fur, but tougher stuff but definitely not maple or oak.
Simple suggestion. Your CNC-router is making the strange noises you can hear in this and the other videos. Because most of the time you have the wrong routing direction for wood. A clockwise rotating milling cutter should mill the wood on the outside of your workpiece in a counter-clockwise direction. This also prevents noise and prevents your machine from shooting away as seen in the crash video
Hi Snowy, only problem with conventional milling is there's more tear out in wood so that's why I'm climb milling.
Awesome video, A quick question, where did you get your collet for the 3/8 bit? That would be such a time saver when I batch out my stuff.
Thanks! It's the makita collet. I found one on Amazon and it worked:
MAKITA 3/8" Collet Cone, 3608B... www.amazon.com/dp/B000808IBU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Amazing! Just stumbled upon your channel and it looks great, we both like cnc and climbing haha. Two questions that I don't know if you have already answered. Have you modeled the hold yourself? If so, will you share the file? And also, which wood are you using?
Hi Sam. Glad you enjoyed! I did make the holds my self. At the moment I'm not sharing the files for the holds. As for wood, I'm using Douglas Fir.
Great video. So a question.... why not machine your waste board to have a slight angle under the parts to allow the grip side to be slightly angled? Right now it is at 90° but if the base material was set in at an angle it would allow that angle to change and make the hold easier to hang from.... Obviously this would require modeling a special waste board but you have already done that to create your hold down method.... Just a though.
Jerold Jay! That is a killer suggestion! There's a few issues regarding how I could do it and have it work from an implementation point but as an idea thats awesome! Thank you. I'm going to toy with that and see what I can come up with. Seriously thank you!
@@AustinConrad Looks like the tooling would be fine, only big concern i see is the potential for your mounting bolt to be impacted. With a small angle the hole could just be slightly oversized (You could use a smaller diameter bolt for machining than would be used on the wall so the "oversized hole" is still the hole size you want...) . With a more dramatic angle it could cause the need for a slot....potentially causing an issue when mounted on your climbing wall... The bottom of the part would obviously have the same angle, but it doesn't look like that would have any impact on the use. I'm looking forward to seeing what you can do.
It definitely presents other issues but the idea it self is something I'm going to play with and see what happens.
Two questions;
What are the machining time?
And what CAD/CAM combo are you using?
The roughing I got down to around 5 minutes a part and the finishing closer to 8. When you have only one tool change per cycle it's pretty fast. The CAD/CAM is fusion 360.
Cool, i have been machining some holds too, and just upgraded my sketchy diy build to the shapeoko 3 xxl. I will try to beat that time when I get to it. Also, how well do your holds do after some time?
@@bussergi with the polyurethane coating outdoors there holding up just great.
what collets are you using?
The precision collets from shapeoko for the 1/8" and 1/4" tooling and the makita collet for the 3/8" tooling
Do you sell these holds?
Hi Blake. Not yet. They still need more refinement before that can happen. I'll be sure to update more at that point.