Expert Guide to Fluid Applied Window Installation
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- In this video, join Matt and the Catalyst Construction team as they guide you through the full process of installing a window using PROSOCO's fluid applied flashing system. From preparing the rough opening to securing the window and ensuring a watertight and airtight seal, this step-by-step tutorial covers everything you need to know. Learn the benefits of using PROSOCO’s Fast Flash and Cat 5 products for a seamless, durable installation that meets the highest industry standards.
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Glad you have continued making videos about new products and techniques! Thank you!
not used to a sloppy process from Matt! Everything is usually 100%!
What's a pirates favorite fluid applied flashing system? Rrrrr guard
That sequence along the right side of the window flange really shows how easy it is to mess up with this stuff. The very experienced installer had to do it three times with Matt acting as quality control. I’ll take Zip tape over fluid applied every time. Still have to install it correctly, but there’s less opportunity to screw it up. Given that this is a SIP home (if I heard correctly), fluid applied probably made sense since the WRB is fluid applied-probably required for maintaining the warranty from Prosoco.
I do like the AirDam product instead of spray foam in a can which doesn’t seal nearly as well as a true flexible sealant like the Prosoco products.
Matt: We're here at a Catalyst Construction job...
Also Matt: Will you fill those nail holes for me. 13:15
Backseat driving.
I wonder how well this product will stand up to time. When the house settles a bit will it flex or will it crack? Especially on the sides with direct sunlight.
I feel like tape will lose its grip after a few years. A flexible rubber material sounds like it will last longer. Is it cheaper to use OSB and this spray on coating vs Zip sheeting?
I think the tape isolates stresses between the house and window. Also seems easier. Probably equal performance. Just faster with tape.
Matt
What kind of coverage can you expect with the Cat 5? I didn't see anything giving a range on the website. Just trying to get an idea of how much I'll need to see what kind of cost I'm looking at if I use it.
What is the failure mode for this fluid applied flashing. Have you seen a properly fluid appled sealed window fail?
Disappointed, from the title I expected Matt to pour molten glass into the opening and make his own fluid applied window 🤣
How do you decide which window system to use? Your videos highlight Zip-based, Prasoco. How do I approach a prospective builder to learn what window flashing system to use? What about aluminum cap flashing?
Would you ever run a bead where the vinyl fin joints into the fiberglass window for air barrier purposes? Ha, 15 seconds after I wrote this you mentioned the sealant on the interior and exterior from the manufacturer. Ok, assume it's a window that doesn't have the factory applied inner and outer sealant.
Having to mist the surface before applying the sealant on a dry day is a clear point of failure in the future for many builds since there’ll be many many installers that skip that step. That absolutely sucks.
How does this differ in a flangeless 'european' window install?
In 20 years when windows need to be replaced, how hard is it to tear it out?
Don’t buy windows that need to be replaced in 20 years. But to answer your question, it’s doable, but you’d rather not
hey matt! are vertical hairline cracks in newer construction for a home in the foundation walls normal?
Not a construction science engineer, but FWIW:
Over 29 yrs, we’ve owned 13 homes, in 12 states, across New England, Mid Atlantic upper Southeast, Midwest (upper and middle), along with Texas and Arkansas, and of those homes, (10 bespoke built and 3 were existing resales), we’ve had 9 basements of extended height/walk-out (both block and poured) and I recall having miscellaneous/minor vertical cracks in the foundation walls, in most.
As I was personally involved in each construction phase review, especially when we were having a portion of the basement finished-off for additional “legal” living sq footage, I always hired an engineer to “inspect what we expected”, especially the final pre-closing inspection (even on a new build, always have a pre-close inspection performed by an inspector/engineer of your own choosing and payment) - the fact they they worked for me (and not the builder) gave me faith and confidence when advised that said cracks were not a problem…
Likewise, when reselling the homes, those signed professional opinions were (along w/ our own “pre-put-on-the-market home inspection” that we’ve always had performed), proved to be very helpful due-diligence documentation, to have on hand, IMHO… again, FWIW
@@Padoinky so th e saying about only 2 types of concrete, one thats cracked, and one that has yet to crack is basically true?
The cost to value is definitely a numbers calculation every builder should do before committing to this product. We use it, will continue to use it. But it’s significantly more expensive than “Tape”. When the system is explained to an owner, you have to be able to justify the cost difference.
When a window installer charges several thousands per window… I don’t think a $30 sausage is going to make a difference
@@vapeurdepisseIt all adds up.
where is the best place to buy the R-guard system?
We purchased all ours from Amazon. Prosoco has a store front there.
From a materials supplier. I mean, you really can't figure that out?
Keep it civil, please. There are all different experience levels among Matt’s subscribers and it’s a great place for newbies to learn, but not if you’re going to belittle them.
Will this product adhere to pressure treated plywood?
OSB interior walls???
Looks like you folks mis-spelled the word “Applied” on the thumbnail image.
Matt is the rough opening bottom sloped?
Lots of disagreement in the industry about that. Some say it’s an unnecessary waste of time and material. Since water likes to run downhill, I’m putting a sloped sill piece under all the windows in my own house.
The only issues is how firm it is if the header sags will it crack the glass?
If the header sags enough to crack the glass, you've got MUCH bigger problems than the sealant. C'mon, be smarter than that.
I get using it on the floor band where it meets the basement wall but I prefer the tape because those windows are going to have to be replaced one day
I can see the 119 languages on the label it needs for all the illegals applying it. 😂😂😂
They probably only need to print two different languages and that would cover 99% of who would apply it here in the U.S. You also might be surprised how many of those non-English speaking users aren't all that literate in their own language, so reading the label wouldn't be a priority.
@@jt5747 they print them here in about six languages already. It’s their ad because he groups that get involved and say that they aren’t getting it out to the people who only speak their language. That is why you have to have them printed in 800 languages because of an advocacy group that goes before some leftist Democratic organization.
Umm, there are places outside the US that build buildings 🤦♂️
Fluid applied. Cmon..
Seems must slower than peel and stick.
13:58. Matt tells installer, he missed a spot and fill in those missed nail holes… neither of these is a problem with tape. Help me see the advantage here.
Nope. Let’s see how it performs over ten years. I don’t much care for tape either, although it has proven itself over time. I’m old school and I prefer metal flashing and an isometric caulk. I have been in the building trades for 40 years and I am wary about new products as they can be tested in the lab against wind and water. The one thing which cannot be simulated is the passage of time.
I think the whole industry is wasting money. Why don't people just use air concrete instead of woid if they spend that much money on wood.
Is aircrete recognized by most local building codes and insurance companies?
I'm sure all the structural engineers and developers and builders out there were just waiting for you to share your unprecedented insight, because they had never once tried any alternatives in all of their combined centuries of experience. Good thing you came along and posted on UA-cam!
@@dionh70 😂😂😂
Seems like taping is faster and more full proof, no? Am I missing something? Seems like a solution to a problem that didn’t exist
Taping seems better this seems like it could crack the glass if the header sags
@@patrickday4206 If the header sags enough to crack the glass, you've got MUCH bigger problems than the sealant. C'mon, be smarter than that.
Doesn’t calking do the same too? Does this stuff replace nails? Nope.
@@dionh70 that's why we don't nail the top edge are you even a carpenter?
In my case I have brick so tape is a no go