Beginner Knife Making: How to forge a hunting/skinning knife
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- Опубліковано 26 тра 2022
- Hello everyone and welcome back to the forge! After taking some time off to help with moving my Dad back home after his stay in the nursing home recovering from a several-month battle with the Rona I am happy to be back bringing you wonderful viewers some content. I appreciate you watching and if you would hit that SUBSCRIBE button and ring the NOTIFICATION bell to be informed when my newest content posts.#knifemaking #forging #metal #forgedinfire #DIY #howto
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I think you have reminded me we can forge out a piece of steel rather than always do stock removal, it's more fun I think, nice little project, cheers.
I really enjoy doing both, I do a lot more stock removal in the summer due to the temps we hit, I appreciate you watching!
I really miss knifemaking, forging was my favorite part!
Beautiful 👍
That's a bad ass piece of work. Love it!
Beautiful knife. I'd like to try making one some day. I think it's so awesome that you have the skills of a blacksmith, woodworker and likely leatherworking too and can blend them all together to make a knife and sheath!
Thanks! You do end up having to be a jack of all trades, the hard part is being good at all of them. I appreciate you watching.
I’ve been using their dark brown dye, but that light brown turned out really good too I might try that on my next one
Thanks for the vid im a beginner at forging and im always looking for projects to increase my skills and im going to make a knife now.
Thanks for watching, I greatly appreciate it, and best of luck on your journey!
Your Artistry amazes me every time I see you build a new project! WOW! GREAT JOB!
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
What a beautiful knife! You have the skills for sure. Take care
I'll be watching for more.
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
One of the best videos I have seen on knife making. Great job!
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
Beautiful!
Thanks, I appreciate you watching!
Thank you, I'm looking to get into forging.
It seems like a nice way to hammer out frustrations.😂
So talented been following for years
Awesome knife, thanks for making the videos, they are alot of help
Thanks! I am glad they are helping out, and I appreciate you watching!
Just gorgeous.
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
Nice. Very nice
Nice I love it
Beautiful Knife you made
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
beautiful blade, and I love the handle colors and style.
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
Nice my friend never tought of using nails for pins before
great video matt the knife looks great i need to get into the forge been to busy with my landscaping to finish some knives glad to hear your dad is ok and home Mark
Thanks! I appreciate you watching! We are really glad to have hime home as well. I have been super busy outside as well, being away from our place here in Oklahoma for 9 months in Alaska sure gave me a lot of work to catch up on.
Very nice job, I love the handle!
Thanks! Maple is one of my favorites to work with. I appreciate you watching!
Glad your dad is back home. Excellent work on the knife. Love the wood you used for the handle. Would like for you to use that wood for the handle of my kitchen knife whenever you're able to take that order.
Thanks! Maple is one of my favorite woods to work with and one of my most requested handle materials. I have been making good headway on my backlog hopefully I will be back to taking orders soon. I appreciate you watching!
Nice knife man you made it look easy.
Nice work
Awesome
Ok, I love the hande, this piece of wood ooks awesome!
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
Great video, I have been trying to get better at forging myself, thanks for the bideos.
Glad to help, I appreciate you watching.
Maravilhosa técnica de forja. A faca ficou linda. Vou tentar fazer esse modelo
Magnifique travail, et magnifique résultat 😉👍
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
Great video. I am thinking of getting into this. I would love more info on tools you need and how much they cost.
Great video! I find it interesting that you grind the bevels in rather than forging them in. Seems more efficient that way.
Thanks! I do minimal forging on the bevels for knives that I want to clean all of the forge marks off of, I focus more on forging the profile and keeping it the same thickness, I do occasionally forge the bevels in and go pretty thin but it just depends on the build. I appreciate you watching.
Watched my first video of yours! Amazing - subscribed!
Sick knife
Thanks for checking it out, I greatly appreciate it!
Excellent job. A pleasure to watch you create it!
Thanks! I greatly appreciate you watching!
nice.
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
Eldin playing in the backround was cool I heard a counter stab
I love all the souls style games, I just recently beat Demons Souls on my PS5. I appreciate you watching.
i worked with 1095 for the first time this week. Made a leather cutting half round knife. Very pleased with the steel.
Kudos on a great looking EDC! That handle is stunning.
1095 is one of my favorite steels to work with. That is awesome! I have been thinking about doing a leather knife or an Ulu for some time now myself. I appreciat eyou watching!
superbe
Thanks, i appreciate you watching.
Thumbs up for doing proper tempering AND factory stock of known steel. Out of curiosity, what did you use? I used to make do with small electric oven, which was not ideal (not a paragon of temperature stability).
Thanks, I appreciate you watching! I currently use a propane oven on a regular kitchen stove. I do plan on purchasing a heat treat oven in the future.
Nice work!
Completely new to blacksmithing, something my boys & I want to start learning.
1 question, I thought 1095 steel was blade quality, what do you gain by forge & hammering it?
Thanks! I appreciate you watching. 1095 is blade quality steel by forging it out it allows me to get more out of the bar. If I were doing stock removal only there would be a lot of waste left from cutting out the knife blank and to use it I would have to put it in a canister and use powdered steel to make a useful bullet. If I forge the knife I can get 4 knives from one bar where I could only get 3 by doing stock removal therfore maximizing the usable steel. 1095 and 5160 are the steel types I use most in my Damascus and regular bladesmithing work.
Great video, very informative. Im just starting out and still learning a lot. What epoxy did you use to secure the handle? Thank you.
Thanks, I appreciate you watching! I used 15 min epoxy from www.popsknifesupplies.com
SUPER 👍👍👍 SUPER
Thank you very much! I appreciate you watching!
Very nice knife, mate, you are skilled blacksmith for sure. Btw, what was the purpose of hammering the tang with wedge-shaped side of hammer instead of flat one at 4:30 ? To thin down tang faster or something else?
Thanks! I used the cross peen side of my hammer to help draw the tang out both longer and wider then went back with the flat face to smooth everything out. It allowed me to push the steel I a certain direction where the flat face of my hammer would have pushed steel in all 4 directions. ABS Mastersmith Burt foster has some entry level Bladesmithing courses on his website where he teaches the method more in depth, they are only like 25 dollars and have helped me immensely. I appreciate you watching!
😎 👍🏼
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
im trying to get into knife making, whats that sharp thing you used at the begining to cut the knife blade off of the rest of the metal called?
Clean little blade bud. Never thought about using nails for pins.
Thanks, I hadn't either until I moved to Alaska for 9 months and it was taking forever to get pin stock in the mail, I belive it is the 16 penny box nail that is pretty much the same as 5/32 which is what my normal pin stock was. I appreciate you watching!
Hey man, awesome knife, I loved it. Is there a belt grinder you would recommend for a beginner knifesmith? I just bought myself a forge and anvil but have not had luck with a belt grinder. I've taken some classes on knifemaking, so I know the basics, but unfortunately I have not found a good belt grinder without breaking my bank acct. I am currently considering a KMG grinder from Beaumont Metal, would you recommend this? Anyway, great video, keep up the work
Thanks, I appreciate you watching! Congratulations on getting into the most epic craft in the world! I would suggest a 1x30 from grizzly or a 2x42 from jet but they can be a little underpowered for some things and they have huge limitations. My first 2x72 was a grizzly single speed G1015 but for just a little more you can get an OBM 2x72 from origin blademaker, I used the OBM for almost all of my earlier big Bowie and sword builds, and as soon as I get a new motor for it I will be using it along side my Broadbeck. I would purchase a 1x30 to start out because you can do smaller knives like the one in this video with it and it is cheap, the grizzly was 145 from amazon. I would save up and buy a KMG, OBM, or Broadbeck just make sure it has a vfd, they are gamechangers, nothing beats being able to slow your grinder down to a crawl for working detailed tight spots.
What a great looking knife! The scales are gorgeous. I'm curious. Why did you use leather dye on them! Thanks again for sharing!
Thanks! I used dye because maple is pretty pale naturally and the dye helps darken the grain to help it stand out more. I appreciate you watching!
Great looking knife. What wood was used for the handle? It turned out amazing!
It looks like tiger maple
Amazing, I learned a lot watching this process. Happy your dad is home and doing well. Just wondering how much you sell a knife like this for? And what was the total build time?
Thanks! I appreciate you watching! A knife like this normally takes me around 16 hours to complete, that includes hand sanding and sheath work. When I sell these I price them at 125 with a leather sheath.
@@Mysticmountainforge are you selling them not to make a profit? That’s $7 an hour minus cost for supplies.
@@shaunpenman2863exactly
@@Mysticmountainforgeonly 125!!!!??? :/
Noticed you don't have a door on the opposite end of the forge. Do you recommend not having one? I have a similar setup and recently added a sheet metal door but can't tell if it makes a difference. Awesome work by the way!
Thank you for watching, I greatly appreciate it! I normally don't, sometimes if I am working a large Damascus billet I put a fire brick ar the back but not every time.
Knice !! job brother. At least I’m not the only one that uses leather dye on scales.
Thanks! I just got in some blue and green dye yesterday and I am really looking forward to using them. I appreciate you watching!
@@Mysticmountainforge Yes sir !! Have been a subscriber for sometime now. I didn’t find you on Instagram.
@@timjohle8876 instagram.com/mmforge/ here is a link that may help.
@@Mysticmountainforge Thanks brother. I found you.
Great video. Was that wood ash you buried the knife in?
Thank you
Thanks! Yes it was hardwood ash, I put it in there to anneal. I appreciate you watching!
Awesome blade, Sir! New to the craft here… what is the tool you used starting at 9:00 to grind in the bevels?
Thanks! That is a file guide, it helps keep your plunge lines even. You can find one here: www.amazon.com/File-Guide-with-Carbide-Surface/dp/B06XHCWQ76 they aren't cheap but they are worth every penny and are pretty much a one time purchase, I have been using the one in the video for full time knife making over a span of 3 years. I appreciate you watching!
Great video, but, would have really liked some descriptions and why you were doing the things you were doing, like putting it in ashes, as a person very new to blacksmithing these things would have helped tons
Thanks, I am working on getting set up to do voice overs for the videos to help explain everything better. I put the knife in ashes to allow it to cool down slowly, it anneals the steel and makes it easier to cut, drill and grind. I appreciate you watching.
Would love to have a forge
It is an awesome craft to get into. I appreciate you watching.
Simply great knife. Why dont you use aluminum pins ?
Thanks! I just used what I had on hand to show how to make a simple knife for those just starting out. Everything used in this build besides the steel came from my local hardware store. I normally prefer brass pin stock.
How do I go about getting tht fresh new out of the box depth n shine on the blade . Thx
I hand sand the blade up to 600 grit making sure to remove all scratches from previous grits, then I make sure to take time on the last grit to do straight pulls so all the lines run in one direction. Doing this will give you a nice finish like on this blade. If you get a chance check out Nick Wheelers UA-cam channel, he has a really good video covering proper hand sanding. I appreciate you watching.
Nice blade! What type of wood did you use for the scales?
Thanks! It was maple, I got it from Home Depot, it was in their hardwood dept. I appreciate you watching.
What do you quench your blades in? Im guessing oil but it didnt flame up so im not sure.
When I first started I used vegetable oil, it will work great on steels like 1080 and 5160, and is readily available. A quench oil like parks 50 costs significantly more but is made for quenching knives. I appreciate you watching.
Nice work. I’m curious why you only forged the profile? Why not forge the bevel as well?
Thanks, the stock was pretty thin to start with, and I was worried about leaving hammer marks too deep to grind out, I always forge thick and grind thin mainly due to a lack of experience forging bevels, but I am working on getting better at it. I appreciate you watching.
9. Thaanknyou
Thank you! I appreciate you checking it out!
Great video, one question though why did you cover the blade in ash?
Thanks, I appreciate you watching! I bury the knife in ash to allow it to cool down slowly which anneals the steel it makes it easier to drill and grind, steel will sometimes work harden and can be a nightmare to drill. You can do the same process with floor dry or a clay based cat litter.
So I'm new to forging and just built my forge what was that dirt that you put the knife in? And what does it mean to temper a knife in the oven I'm just trying to learn, and watching you and asking questions is I thought I would learn a bit more
It is hardwood ash, you can also use a clay based cat litter, I do it to alow the steel to cool down slowly, it steel can work harden and this makes it easier to drill the pin holes in the handle. When you heat treat (quench) a knife it makes the metal extremely hard, this in turn also makes the metal extremely brittle and prone to breaking or chipping so we temper the steel to bring it down to a hardness that will hold a edge but also hold up to cutting tasks the knife will be required to do. I do a 2 hour cycle at 400F for my 1095 and 5160 steels, this has yielded a result that has held up extremely well in real world use for hunting and regular everyday use. I am more than happy to help, I appreciate you watching.
@@Mysticmountainforge ok wow thank you so much that cleared a lot of questions for me, now do you do the heat treatment in ur forge or in an oven for 400 for 2, 1 hour cycles?
Also what oil do you use for the quench?
Just seen this and love it! Does it make the knife harder and hold an edge better the way you're doing this? Very curious!
Thanks! Using the method I use on here seems to work well, the feedback I get from hunters that use my knives is that they hold a really good edge for skinning and processing multiple game animals.
@@Mysticmountainforge thanks. Looking forward to making my own soon. Always wanted to!
I tried looking though the comments I couldn’t find anything but that looks like a 2 burner forge? Would that be a good starter size? I really want to get into it!
I use a 3 burner forge from Majestic forge but a 1 or 2 burner forge will work great for any application, Mr volcano makes some budget friendly models that work really well. www.amazon.com/Volcano-Hero-Stainless-Professionals-Blacksmith/dp/B091SFMK9C/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mr+volcano&qid=1694537989&sr=8-2 here is a link to the single burner model. I appreciate you watching!
Great work . What is the device made to attach the logo at 12:45? That's interesting to me how something like that works.
Would also like to know how that was done.
@@4TheJoesbyaJoeI was looking for it and I think it's like this: ua-cam.com/video/1A69C7aVc4g/v-deo.htmlsi=rieG2uEB48_28v04
Is in German, but you can activate the subtle...
Great. I'm not fond of the finish on the handle, but it's still nice craftsmanship.
What do you use to put the makers mark on the blade?
I use an electro etching machine, it is called a personalizer plus. I appreciate you watching.
Is there a reason for tapping the hammer on the anvil after hitting the steel? I'm new to forging so I didn't know if that was something you're supposed to do or not.
Not really, some say it's for rhythm, a lot of times I just drop it on the anvil and the rebound makes it bounce on the hardened anvil face. As far as I know it doesn't help with much of anything but is a habit we form sometimes. I appreciate you watching
Ah I gotcha that makes sense now. Thank you for sharing this. I'm excited to get started.
Nice work! I’m looking to getting into knife making and I need to know what that tool is you used at 8:46
That is my height gauge, it can be found pretty affordable on amazon. I appreciate you watching. www.amazon.com/Measuring-Precision-Aperture-Magnetic-Standing/dp/B07QMRFFBC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2C6QZ0OO22GFA&keywords=height+gauge&qid=1704422297&sprefix=height+gau%2Caps%2C1044&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
@@Mysticmountainforge aaaahhhhh okay. Thanks!
Did u get the pattern on your handle from the way you sanded it before you dyed it?
It was just the pattern from the grain in the wood, the sanding did help bring it out though. I appreciate you watching.
@@Mysticmountainforge thank you so much! You do great work.
Can I ask what is probably a dumb question? What are the advantages of hammering the shape from the raw bar of steel, versus just cutting that shape out and then proceeding with hardening, sharpening, etc? Anyways, nice piece!
Thats not a dumb question at all, usually I will forge a knife when the piece of steel I have is too small to do a stock removal knife, forging it allows me to draw it out and shape the steel into the pattern or style I want. I forged this knife and many others here on the channel from bars of steel for teaching purposes. The stock removal method is quicker and less labor intensive due to the fact that you remove the entire forging process of the knife which makes it great for beginners or for those who make pattern welded steel and don't want to distort the pattern through the forging process. I do a little of both here on the channel but most of the viewers I have like to see the forging process so I do a lot of that style on here. The knives I make to sell off camera are most usually stock removal from 1095 or 5160 becaus eit is the most cost effective way for me to make them at the price I sell them at, when it is all said and done no matter if it is forged or ground to shape there will always be some stock removal to be done. Here is a link to a video I made a couple of years back showing how to make a knife without a forge. ua-cam.com/video/ioEG4rm8LVU/v-deo.html I appreciate you watching.
Where do you get your etching stencils made? I am getting ready to get some made if I can ever decide on a design.
I get them at www.img-electromark.com they ship them extremely fast when you place your order, they also carry the electrolyte solution as well in bulk bottles. I appreciate you watching.
Thank you. By the why I forgot to tell you great job on the knife and video.
Thanks, I appreciate that.
Newbie here. Pros and cons of shaping the knife by forge/hammer vs stock removal with a sander/grinder?
Forging allows you to take a smaller piece of steel and forge it into a larger knife that wouldn't have been possible via stock removal because of their not being enough material. Forging is more labor intensive and requires more work than stock removal. Stock removal is the best place to start for a beginner. I appreciate you watching.
@@Mysticmountainforge awesome, thanks man!
How did you seal the dye so that it doesn't rub/come off??
I let the dye dry completely then apply 6-8 coats of Tru oil allowing each coat to dry completely before applying the next. You can also coat the handle with super glue, let it dry then buff it by hand with a piece of denim. I appreciate you watching!
@Mystic Mountain Forge Thank you so much, BEAUTIFUL work Sir. I'll get there eventually haha
What kind of steel are you using?
I used 1095 for this project. I appreciate you watching!
Was that ashes you put the knife in ?
It was hardwood ash, you can do the same with a clay based cat litter or floor dry. I leave it in there to anneal so it's easier for cutting and grinding. I appreciate you watching.
What is the tool used to find and scroll the center of the blade, where to sharpen to? I would like to find one on Amazon if possible but I don’t know what the tool is called?
It is called a height Guage, I bought the one I have from grizzly industrial but Amazon has them as well, I would try to get a digital one instead of the analog one like I have. I appreciate you watching.
@@Mysticmountainforge I just bought the digital one. Thank you so much! I just got my forge up, I’ve got an “Anvil” 75# chunk of tool steel on a stump sunk into the ground. It works… I want to make knives as a hobby. Plenty of used bent up steel laying around.
@@Mysticmountainforge after hammering in the bevels, how do you center the bevels and then center the blade with the gauge?
Nice vid, would love to have instructions tho
I appreciate you watching!
What belt sander is that?
I use a Brodbeck Ironworks 2x72. I appreciate you watching.
Why does the steel seem to cool faster in the areas where it is hammered? Thinking mathematically, are you not adding work to the system by hammering, thereby meaning the metal should cool down slower than the unhammered areas? Or is there some materials microstructure magic happening when the steel deforms from the hammering?
The steel cools down quicker where it is hammered due to the hammer face pulling heat from the steel when it is hit. The hammer face is substantially cooler than the steel and doesn't hit it at a fast enough rate for the kinetic energy of the blow to reheat it, now if I were forging this steel under a power hammer the rapid blows coupled with the force of said blows would actually reheat the steel to some extent. I'm not hitting it hard enough and fast enough to heat the amount of steel back up if it were a smaller piece of stock it is possible to heat it up with rapid hammer blows the Japanese did this to light their forges, this process is demonstrated in a Man at arms video showcasing the build of a Katana. Matt Stagmer does a really good job of explaining the process. I appreciate you watching.
What kind of wood was used for the handles???
I used maple I bought from Home Depot, I believe it was maple furring strips, if you look through their stack, you can find some boards with really nice grain for not very much money at all. I dyed it with brown leather dye. I appreciate you watching.
@@Mysticmountainforge absolutely
How much$$$ would that knife sell for?
125 with a leather sheath where I live, you could probably go as high as 225-300 in an area where people get paid more. I appreciate you watching.
What thickness was the steel you used?
I used a bar of 1095 1.5 inches wide and 1/8 inch thick. I appreciate you watching.
@@Mysticmountainforge Thanks!
6:45 what is this process for? Normalizing?
I put it in the wood ash to anneal, sometimes after forging the steel can work harden and this process allows the steel to cool down at a extremely slow rate which makes drilling the pin holes and grinding much easier. You can also do this by putting it in clay based cat litter, sand or you can just turn off the forge and let it set inside. I usually do my normalizing cycles prior to quench which can be seen at the 9:24 mark.
What's the stuff you put the blade in?
It is hardwood ash, I put the blade in it to anneal it for drilling. I appreciate you watching.
@@Mysticmountainforge thank you so much for your response. I really like your craft.
What would you charge for a blade like this
Thanks for watching, I normally charge 125 for a small hunter like this. I appreciate you watching.
@@Mysticmountainforge do you do sheaths with them as well?
What is the substance you use @7:03? Forgive me if you have already answered this question. It looks like ash
No problem, It is wood ash, I heat the blade up and place it in it overnight. This allows the steel to cool down extremely slowly, which helps with drilling the pin holes in the tang. I appreciate you watching.
Any knife will do in me case..
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
Где можно заказать?
How much?
What is that wierd sansd thing called?
It was a container of hardwood ash, I put the steel in it to let it cool down slowly, it helps make it soft enough to drill the pin holes. I appreciate you watching!
Do you sell your work?
Normally yes, right now I am booked solid with orders though. I'm trying to get some made for my website but I don't know when that will end up happening. Thanks for watching I appreciate it!
wats the points of a beginner friendly vudeo if u dont explain the process😊
There are a few on the channel where I explain the process in depth, I did this one like this because I got tired of people complaining about me talking in the videos so much, can't make everyone happy. I appreciate you watching.
Could you put more captions in if what your doing. I’ve never forged before but I just got a little forge anvil and some tools. But I really have no idea about the details.
I go into detail about the forging process some in this video, ua-cam.com/video/aptxfVFZ-LU/v-deo.html I will talk more about the processes in my future videos, I greatly appreciate you watching!
I usually try to find some cons to go along with the pros.. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxnkYCgssg4ZO858cyBdD1JPEaUJ9Up1C_ but it really is a good knife. The blade sits centered in the handle when closed (photo added). It opens effortlessly. Unlocks and closes easily with one hand. It’s a great size for EDC. I wish this exact knife came in one of the premium steels to satisfy the knife snob in me.. but it’s a great tool at a great price as it is. Would buy again.
Thanks! I appreciate you watching.