Logwood burner from crete to first burn. Plus followup improvements
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- Опубліковано 13 січ 2019
- logwood burner from crete to first burn. Plus followup improvements. This is a Logwood wood stove, from United States Stove Company. It is an entry level cast iron stove. Which we purchased from Northern Tool. Casting was very good. Assembly had a couple problems that were easily fixed. This is for our screened in porch, that doubles as our winter plant room, and greenhouse for starting new seedlings. Hope you enjoy this and please subscribe.
/ gamadgardener
Really helped me out with assembly and the questions I had about the inner wool. Thanks!
Your welcome
@@bulldogge1232000 thanks for the video. I just assembled mine yesterday and was confused regarding the inner wool. I kept thinking this couldn't possibly be meant to stay in there... I took it out right away and now I'm glad I did.
@@larrybottjen5643 I tried it both ways, and prefer it out
@@bulldogge1232000 Good to know. I can't imagine anyone keeping it in there as it blocks the flue sooo much.
I own a us stove potbelly. I bought 1/2” stove rope and cement on Amazon. I glued the rope to the door and on the ash door. That made for less air intrusion at the seems, and makes it easier to control the fire.
I haven't had the need for rope,but have mudded the seams on the right side.
As a Prepper, I will buy one for storage when needed. THANKS!
They have these at tractor supply,this video is awesome
Thank you
I'm hoping to cook on mine during the winter when we are using it. Would be perfect to cook stew, chili or soups.
There is wool in the top to prevent heat buildup. I removed mine.
Update. I finally hooked up my stove and I shall let you know that the only thing that burned with this EPA approved stove was the money I paid for it. I already disconnected it and will remove it from my home before days end. I do not have the heart to sell this on Craigslist because I could not live with myself knowing I took money from someone for a piece of junk. I will never do this to people! Even with the door wide open I could not get a draft. I am so glad I did not wait until the weather got near zero before trying my first test burn. For those that are successful and love this stove I salute you. So sad all the stove companies cave to the EPA demands and make unusable stoves with poor performance. Feels so good to put my old boxwood in place! At least I can slide open the top cover to easily clean and load my wood for burn. I will try to forget this nightmare and leave this bad memory in the past. I will never touch a US Stove again. I wish the original boxwood stoves were still sold (without the EPA crap) but this is the politics that we live with while our lives are choked with regulations. Our arteries can no longer flow with life blood as regulations are never repealed and always new ones added. So shameful are the leftists that destroy our country.
Yes. I ripped most of the EPA sh!t out of mine.
The only problem with your draft is the exhaust/stove pipe.
It's not the stove.
Find someone local to help you.
@@burtvhulberthyhbn7583 Thank you but I dumped it already. Have my original unit back in place.
@@exercise-or-die-early did you free up the damper by pulling the pin before lighting the fire? A locked closed damper will not draft at all
@@burtvhulberthyhbn7583 That was fixed right after this video.
If you buy one of these stoves you need to disassemble the entire stove by removing the four straps that hold it all together.Remove the restrictor plate at the inside top. Remove the two square pipes with holes drilled in them and toss them in the trash. Use the so called heat shield plate on the bottom and cut out a block off plate for the two square holes. Block off the two holes in the door. Now you have a great stove.
I agree, The simpler the better for this model.
Dumping the secondary combustion feature is foolish
Simple but less effective.
I just bought this stove for TSC. The door definitely has a rope seal on it and it closes tight. Mine seems to be pretty tight and no smoke issues. I did not have a damper on the stove to pipe adapter. I put one in the pipe. As long as I remember to open the damper a few seconds before opening the door there's no smoke issues.
Cool, it needed some upgrades
Thanks for the advice on removing the wool from the top. Doing the install very slowly....its for the tiny house bug out shack out back. Haven't fired it up yet and now considering removing the "wool" at the top from the git go. That since I do want to be able to boil water at least. Jeff in OK, Im way to the left of you on many things I am sure ....but we agree on this stove. It was as a century of evolution made it the way it was. IAW all the bugs were known and improvements made. The old saying is correct....if it ain't broke DON'T fix it (unless your job depends on Fugging with sheet that works fine) oh well, as long as it draws and warms. I like the idea of being able to have a 50,000 btu heater that runs on our endless supply of dead wood and seasoned windfall oak.
I have also considered removing the steel plate that the wool rests on. It would draft much better, and reduce smoke from coming out the front when the door is open.
So these are okay stoves afterall, just need some fire block caulking for the seems and some smoke rope gasket and heat resistant glue for the front door, very helpful video thanks!
I ripped the pad out of the top, It drastically cut air flow.
These stoves work excellent when the flu pipe goes straight up and out through the roof. Always the safest and most efficient. Every elbow reduces draw. Long horizontal lengths of stovepipe greatly reduce draw, create a "lazy" fire, and should never be run level, especially close to a combustible ceiling as shown.
I agree the straighter the better. if you have to do a 90, try to do two 45s. and the ceiling is steel
@@bulldogge1232000 Glad to hear your ceiling is steel. The first time I installed a stove, I nearly set my shop on fire. That was almost 40 years ago. Learned lots of lessons about clearances. The horizontal pipe I had would quickly build up with soot and resin. Also had a problem with smoke back drafting out of the stove, into the shop. Later I went straight up, through the roof with the pipe, and the stove worked excellent. I have two woodstoves in the house. One is the boxwood stove on our back porch. These little stoves have gotten a bad rap. I think it's because folks don't install them correctly. I've found that if your flu goes straight up, and through the roof, they work excellent. Also, lots of folks burn whatever wood they come across. Clean, dry wood=clean hot fire. Enjoy!
@@davidlarson9975 No problems with smoke, but I agree it should be straighter.
Thanks
My pleasure
There seems to be a lot of variation in this old school stove from US Stove Co. Mine was bought in 2022 and does have the seal in the door. But no damper in the collar where the flue starts. I am in the process of installing it so these "heads up" videos on UA-cam are great. I will check for good airflow at the top where that blanket insulation seems to give trouble. I'll give it a fair trial but pull it out if there's a problem. got mine new at Farm Tractor Supply for $200.....I should be suspicious, that was a one off, now same stove there is $350. I'll get that calk, thanks for the info.
Good deal....The calking cleans up nicely, with a damp sponge. And if you are going to use the top for any cooking, remove the wool insert.
I just purchased one of these myself, in the process of getting it all ironed out. How did your install go?
@@desmid Install was easy, did use some seam sealer to reduce smoke leaks
Thanks! They've changed a bit in the last 30-40 years, which is surprising and annoying, because I cooked on and used one of these for heat when I was little, and knew how to use it. But there's no damper in front of the door. Weird. That's one thing I honestly didn't think would change much over the years.
Yes, but I removed the wool mat in mine, and I can cook on mine
@@bulldogge1232000 the wool keeps you from being able to cook?? It's a cookstove! *smh*
@@beanoneya Yes, it is an insulator, keeps the top from getting too hot.
@@bulldogge1232000 that's silly, but I'm glad to know!
@@bulldogge1232000 There does not appear to be enough room above that ceramic mat for airflow. I know in my old quadra fire theres a blanket on top the baffle but theres about an inch and a half gap between it and the top plate. does it actually fit in there with a gap or was it just that tight in there? It helps keep the baffle board hotter and radiates more heat downward to aid in burning the gasses.
Cool video! nice stove. I'd like to see a video on a stove made in USA however, not China.
Those cost real money
First thing I did was remove the baffling. How the EPA thinks it’s a good idea to have that in place is beyond me but, overall not the best stove especially indoors but for the price it does the job.
I agree, I use mine on my back porch.
LoL, at 2:38 I thought a kitten popped up there! Cheers 🌳🔥☁️☁️☁️👽
LOL...never noticed that before. but it does
I installed one in greenhouse smoke and smell problems, easy overheat than omg everything stank. So I got thermometer for pipe removed steel plate and wool insulation than burns trough wood faster rear burner hotter than front but can be controlled trough damper and close to front fire recommended. I like this stove but not really because I like to see fire but have to babysit it till flames go down. It draws too much air when door closed. So stay away from overheating pipe because this beast will do it easy. I will get used pellet stove soon as I can to replace this thing.
Leave the wool out, but put the plate back in. I think you will like the results
from what i have been hearing from alot of people. you need to fire it up outside a few times to cook off the paint or whatever it will smoke because of that at first.. i just recieced mine and it did have the cast iron piece that connects the stove pipe. but no damper came with mine. i bought double insulated stove pipe from stove up and out the roof straight up thru the roof. so after i get the rest that i need for the job . i will finnish the instalation then .
Get a tube of the clay seam sealer, it helps. But this unit will always leak a little smoke.
The flue damper goes in the flue and not on the stove. This is why it doesn't come with the stove. It should be located about 12 inches from the stove outlet. You buy this when buying the stove pipe.
Mine was attached to the stove top
I have this stove for my ice fishing shack. I’m hitting my head against the wall trying to figure out this back draft/smoke out the door issue. I find door open a crack allows good airflow but all the smoke comes out the door and up the stove pipe. Door closed and fire smoulders our.
Did u find removing the wool made a huge improvement? Should I remove mine?
I have that problem too, I've seen people weld a plate in, covering the top 2 inches of the opening, to cure that problem.
bulldogge1232000 today I removed the wool blanket and the upper heat shield and the airflow is amazing now! No smoke what so ever with the door wide open. Great updraft now. Only thing I noticed after burning 5 logs is that it lost its efficiency. Just going to put a better flu on the pipe a foot above the stove to slow down the airflow
@@katpis9121 I removed the wool, I may remove the shield to try it
bulldogge1232000 it’s incredible the difference with the sheiks gone almost to much draw now lol. But a better flue that closes up a but more would fix that
How did u remove the heat shield?
The wool mat/baffle board, is it necessary for the stove?
Not in my opinion. Mine works better without it.
How did you know what kind of pipe and pieces to buy and run outside the house . Our first one and we’re running it through a window?? Any ideas on that??
A lot of this has to do with local requirements. You will have to find out if you need insulated pipe or not, and how high you stack must go. Sorry, but I can't really advise you any more than that.
If you don’t mind me asking who do you ask about that sort of thing??
@@angeliaallen4267 Here, you go where they issue building permits or code enforcements
Glad i seen this video to prevent from buying such a pos stove lol
No I do not recommend this for inside a house. But for a porch or shop, it would work great.
I’m getting one soon. How is it heating for you. I am full time RVer and we just got our first snow.
we use it on our porch, and it works great for there. This is not a completely seated unit, it does leak some smoke. for an RV, I would recommend something like a Cubic Mini Grizzly, or another sealed unit
I put one in my house
Great
Can you caulk the seems whit the stove is hot? Or wait till it cools down?
I did it cold, and then cleaned up with a damp clothe
The owners manual PDF from US Stove's website specifically says this unit comes with a 3/8's inch rope gasket and that the unit should not be used without said gasket... 🤔
Good review
Thanks
Mine did not come with the rope gasket
The Newer models come with a rope seal, Not the older versions. Pay close attention to the part numbers of the stoves and PDF manuals. My guess is bulldoge1232000 has an older one. Companies sometimes make small improvements to their products. Something easy to overlook.
Please let me know I just got mine
anyone know where you can get one of these types of stoves that are made in the usa?
antique store for one like this,made in usa. but i think Premium Wood Stoves makes a higher dollar model in the usa
Was thinking about getting this particular stove from Lowes , but getting unclear answers about the dimensions, could you tell me dimensions of just the box without the legs?
11.5"W x 26.5"L x 15"H
I just bought this exact same stove to replace the box-stove I currently have. I was disappointed to see the EPA crap with the baffle blocking the flu where the 6in pipes connect. Part of the strength of my system is 10 feet of 6 inch pipe at a 45 degree angle out the wall near the ceiling. The more pipe inside your home the more comfortable and quickly the room warms up. The heat from all that exposed pipe inside the house is awesome and because of the nice draft I don't get smoke coming out of the stove. I will be tempted to knock out the EPA style baffle and insert a grate in this stove. I absolutely hate un-elected bureaucrats in the EPA forcing stove manufactures to re-design their stove to comply to their demands. I can burn old painted 2 by 4s, pressure treated wood and even some oil soaked old telephone poles with ZERO smell in the house because of the nice draft. This new stove looks like it would be impossible to have a decent draft with the baffle blocking the exit under the flu. Enough bitching at the EPA lefty s. You did an outstanding job with your video. Now I have a road map as far as assembly. Very helpful. A+ Salute.
I removed the wool, and opened the butterfly all the way. made a big difference. as well as made the pipe a 45 degree angle.
Not supposed to burn treated wood!
And if you weee my neibor and smelled that crap buring I would call the local fire department and they would probably have you fined
@@mikewolff5091 Actually we cant detect any unusual smells outside our home. We are quiet and considerate neighbors no matter where we live. Used to live in inner city Milwaukee where homes were 20 feet apart (high density). Never had one complaint, knock on wood (pun intended).
I'm fixing to order one finally, would just like to know one more thing, what's the distance from the damper or pipe edge to the the furthest part of the rear of stove??
The flange of the damper goes right to the rear of the inside firebox. Is this for inside the house, or a shop or porch? Because there is a little smoke leakage. I use mine or my back porch.
I'm actually gonna install in fireplace to have much better heating efficiency because all heat goes straight out the chimney with no way to control the fire, i know a little bout pipe fitting, had to do alot in construction work. Will work perfectly running it straight up chimney based on measurements I've acquired on it. Would like a little sticking out of chimney on hearth so maybe could cook or make coffee if need be, could someone give me a length measurement of just the actual stove box without shelf or anything attached. I've ordered it from Lowe's but won't be in for a few days... thanks
@@colbycallan4194 27L x 11 1\2 W x 15 1/2 T, without legs or front shelf
You do realize it takes in air from under neath
@@bulldogge1232000 yes, will modify if need to, if there is no way to control that, will block that and add air intake to from of heater so I control how much air is took in, thanks those measurements should work perfectly, we shall see✌
I have one and cannot get 6 inch pipe to fit the stove to pipe adapter. Its just over 6 inches.
I had to cut the crimped end off, tight fit then.
Why is there a white foam in the stove? Does it burn up? Take it out?
It is an insulating wool,to keep the top from getting to hot I believe. I removed it. Works a lot better without it.
I left mine in so far
was that wool mat was supposed to be in there or supposed to be removed for shipping? i seen it was blocking the flue outlet when you out it together?
It is there to reduce heat on the top of the stove. But I intended to use the stove top.
@@bulldogge1232000 awby darn ok, another thing to change and service if you keep it , and why would they mot want heat to dissipate there thats its purpose for stove to heat ambient air surrounding it
@@egenestarr1986 Maybe for safety reasons, You know how they child proof things these days.
@@bulldogge1232000 boy yea no kidding and for law suits too
@@egenestarr1986 yep
Can this be placed outside and vented to the house?
It would not be very efficient
I wish they made these with glass doors. A controlled fire seems like such a waste of beauty if you can’t view it.
I agree
I have the same stove and i can not get it to stay lit without the door fully opened. Any advice? ( i removed the mat just like you did and still have the same problem)
How is your pipe situated? I have found that 45 degrees the most it can lean downward.
Also, the butterfly valve can be opened more if needed.
@@bulldogge1232000 right now its just outside. Im doing initial burns to test it before i put it inside. Like you did i took out that insulation. I dont currently have anything restriction the exhaust pipe. Nor do i have a way to meter the incoming air. Apparently its a single burn rate stove i guess.
@@777theright88 The upright pipe is what creates the draft. And with that draft, it can be adjusted using the butterfly valve.
@@bulldogge1232000 ok. Mine didnt come with a butterfly valve so my exhaust pipe is wide open, but i can get one. Do you think that will fox the problem?
how about ceramic insulation?
What about it?
Comen
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Do you happen to sell propane and propane accessories?
no,sorry
Yeah, it's a bad design with the heat shield in place. I bought mine second handed and first time burning for me just priduced all the smoke out the door instead of the flue and just filled the house. After reading some comments in here, i took mine out also(hopefully it's not asbestos or something) and the draft works great with a damper up high, mine is working like a champ.
It was a tried and tested design, then the EPA got involved to mess it up. And the shield is furnace wool, not asbestos.
@@bulldogge1232000
Wool ?
I've never heard that wool is fire resistant to 800 plus degrees...
Your souces would be appreciated...
Thanks
@@Soli_Deo_Gloria_. The correct term is Ceramic Fiber Insulation. but is commonly referred to as wool. It is safe up to 2400-2600F. Try Amazon
Mine is drawing very poorly, maybe I need to do the same.
And it smells toxic when it gets hot..
I would remove it, and look at opening the damper some more.
Your toxic smell is probably the paint burning off I had the same smell when I installed my stove
The smell will go away after a few burns as there will be no more paint to burn also If your chimney pipe is galvanized you'll get a smell from that as well the galvanize coating on the pipe when burning does release a deadly gas but I use galvanized pipe as the galvanize substance will stop smelling after a burn or two also the galvanized pipe lasts longer than the non galvanized black stuff you will replace the black pipe every year because of rust holes I get two years of use from the galvenized pipe
Hope this helps edit: my stove is pre epa regulations so it isn't exactly like the one shown in the video but is the same stove
my damper was put in wrong i had to change it
Mine did not come with one.
new ones don't have a butterfly damper
What model is it ?
US Stoves 900 Sq. Ft. Logwood Stove model 1269E Maximum BTU 54000
@@bulldogge1232000 what size logs do I need? I'm looking everywhere for the answer. Thanks!
@@annahgibbus8 I cut mine 14 -16 inches, but can handle up to 23 inches
The worst wood burning stove the best smoker in the world
These are an entry level stove for a barn or shop, not a home
That woodstove is for a hunters cabin, not really for home owners.. Make sure you have carbon monoxide alarms if you sleep in that area..
The old saying, you get what you pay for..
I agree
If you want to heat your home eith wood, buy a real USA made EPA stove. None of the problems mentioned. They're 70%+ efficient. The reburn tubes are great!😊
These are a starter stoves, or for cabins or porches
Someone don't know how to operate a secondary burn wood stove. That's a EPA wood stove. The baffle is in there to hold in more heat and create a secondary burn. Everything has a purpose in life including that baffle that you removed.
The baffle remains, what was removed, was the rock wool that was clogging the secondary chamber. Now the top of the stove, can heat up, and the air flow is as originally intended. As a stove top.
What did that cost?
250
On 9/16/22 the price at Tractor Supply is $349.99
they really shafted people that dont want creosot to drain in their house male end needs to run down hill into the stove but ya cant do that on this one
I cut the crimp off the bottom pipe, so you can run them that way.
If it's from the island of "Crete" why is the name "United States Stove Company" ? Shouldn't it be called the "Mediterranean Stove Company"?
Originally, they were made in United State.
Way too much lateral pipe, and too many bends. Killing your draft.
I agree, and have redone the pipe
These new stoves are terrible, the lids aren't even removable anymore....
They are not the same as the old ones. but it is a good introductory wood stove.
Wait, the lids/burner holes don't open?!
The damper is wrong so is the door Handel
"It's a good stove"
Smokes out the front, had to caulk the seams, has no door gasket, the baffle was jammed up.
Not a good stove.
It's a starter stove, for a cabin, porch, or garage. It was designed a hundred years ago to be functional. As far as the main heat source in a modern home, I don't recommend it.
Horrible design don't get this stove
I do not recommend this stove for inside your house either, I use it on the porch
I agree, this is a very poor stove.. i bought one, it's terrible..
I wouldn't buy this stove. Should have got a US stove
I wouldn't use it in a house, but great for a porch or shop.