Still a tempting BTLD board in 2024/25. Keep in mind: Compared to the reference TI design, the caps are a bit on the low side (8x470uF), so maybe adding another 2200-4700 uF at the DC input is the way to go. If you really want to max it out when complex impedance speakers are driven, 10A or even 15A SMPS are needed. Biggest advantage of the bridged TPA3255 is the stability down to 2 Ohms and the thermal behavior. Excellent for low frequency work. Many of this boards (aiyima) come with chunky passive heat sinks, that I like. Adding a vent in the case as a option, often not neccessary. The output filters are NOT calculated for 8 or 6 Ohm (a 6 Ohm tweeter has around 7 Ohms @ 15K, 8 Ohm tweeter around 10 Ohm @ 15 k). they are calculated for flat 4 Ohm in the highs, that's not a practical value (1uF are used in combination with 10uH coils here). In practice this is most times a little off and make the highs too bright and harsh sounding. Especially with this kind of filter chokes. Better value is 0.68 uF or a little lower, to reach a Q around 0.7 This fits 90 % of the tweeters out there way better and close to ideal. Talking about filters, the simple toroidal powder FE are somehow O.K. for around 1 A but but they struggle clearly with 100W or even 200+ W that can be achieved with this amp. If you want to rise the quality of this module to another level, exchange the filter coils with Wurth 7443782012100 MnZn shielded coils and put 0.68 uF Wima MKS2 caps in. If you want to go further, change the limiting 470 uF 50V caps to Chemikon EKYB630ELL102MK40S 1000uF 63V and then the amp will become a pretty neat sounding monster.
When you look at the impedance curve of most speakers, they have areas that dip to 4 ohms or even below four ohms and it’s usually nowhere near the high frequency range. For this reason, perhaps it makes sense to design the filters for an 8 ohm load because in those frequency ranges, that’s what you’re likely to see. Even when I look at for full range drivers with no crossover, typically in the high frequency range, the impedance is well above eight ohms. The only speakers I’ve ever seen that have a flat impedance all the way up through the high frequency range is something like MAGNEPAN’s, and to be honest, something like that would be interesting to hear on an amp like this, because you need so much power
When you look at the impedance curve of most speakers, they have areas that dip toohms or even below four ohms and it’s usually nowhere near the high frequency range. For this reason, perhaps it makes sense to design the filters for an 8 ohm load because in those frequency ranges, that’s what you’re likely to see. Even when I look at for full range drivers, typically in the high frequency range, the impedance is well above eight ohms.
The TPA3255 can definitely deliver the power listed on the TI datasheet, but it has to pass all of the heat through a rather small metal heat slug on the top of its surface mount package. Therefore the interface between the IC and the heat sink is very critical. It's important to use a really high quality heat sink compound, like arctic silver ceramique or the like. That's probably not the compound used by most of these lower cost board makers. So it gives the end user an opportunity to improve power output and thermal performance.
FYI you are right about the power ratings that most people quote (300W/channel). That is a bragging number quoted at 10% THD (square wave) for makers of boom boxes and the like who want big numbers on the boxes. The datasheet also shows the actual power on the THD vs power graph right on the front page though, and you can see the real sine wave power is around 100W onto 8 Ohms or 180W into 4 Ohms at
Going electronic 2 way grs 2.0 tweeter @ 2500hz, fixing the eq from youtube music ,audio tests and now has graphic eq. O MG, from amazing grace to tièsto , I have home concert not home theater. Bring on the pitiful 5.1 that cost as much as a car. I build for folks that have love for car and home audio. I HAVE HISTORY AM DYING SOON AND I LOVE TO SHARE ! Great channel
I got an Aiyima A07 that uses the TPA3255 chip. It came with a 36v 6a power supply and it was loud and sounded good but I ordered a 48v 7.5a power supply and it sounds incredible! I think it's giving around 135w at 6 ohms through my 140w 6 ohm speakers. The only problem with the new power supply is the fan is extremely loud!!
Hi Brendan, I would be careful running the amplifier at such a high voltage, mainly because of the lack of ventilation in the case. Regarding the fan noise, you could always reduce the fan speed a little just make sure it does not overheat.
@@brendanhoffmann8402 Always use the lowest voltage you really need to get the results you need. The amplifier performance is the same and will sound the same, all you will lose is power, of course, and dynamic range, but at normal listing level there will be no difference, except heat.
@@MichaelBeeny I was messing around with it just now and have decided it doesn't make enough difference to really use the bigger power supply. the 36v 6a power supply sounds really good still and is silent. The fan really is so annoying with the big power supply.
@Michael Beeny. Hello, Michael, I want to express my great gratitude to you for your work. Your videos are very informative. Personally, I want to wish you health, patience and courage. If it is not difficult for you to answer, I would like to ask a question. Can I connect speakers with a power of 120 watts and a resistance of 8 ohms (minimum resistance of 4.7 ohms) to this amplifier? And what voltage would you recommend applying to an amplifier with such parameters? I am grateful in advance for the answer.
Mr. Beeny, you should try a 3e-audio's Tpa3255 mono boards (if you can find them anymore), the sound is absolutely gorgeous, I made one of them for me and was very satisfied. big chocks with low resistance, working voltage 51, big capacitors, balanced inputs and absolutely brilliant sound :)) i measured and compared it to many hi-end amps like Marantz, Krell, Mcintosh and was veery satisfied with it sound. This is the best Tpa3255 boards what i can found on market.
Not much point in getting 2 mono units, this is basically that anyway. Speaker protection is a major issue. You cannot use any of the standard ones because, neither output for the speaker is reference to ground. Best you can do is a fast blow fuse in line with one leg of the speaker. Better than nothing. This is something I am looking at at present.
I use a douk preamplifier 5532's 45volt 11 amp smps , 70hz high pass f-mods. 8 ohm 3 way AMTTweeters poly mica 5 in mids or 2 in al daytons mids, 8in carbon fiber woofers . Subs are duo dayton 18's. 500 watt ab plate. My last system(poverty) all driven from a13 5g phone. Cold,quiet, reliable has run for 3 months non stop. No damage to drivers either. I have built repaired for 50 plus years also ,your fault inspired me..
Great video! Have you considered the IRS2092 based amplifiers (LJM for example)?. They require symmetrical PS but I believe you'll find them more impressive.
I am adding 70hz f-mods and a douk preamp to restore the 3db line loss. Trying the hiel type ribbons, poly mica 5in mids and 8in carbon fiber cast frame driver. All 8 ohm. 800,5k xover.10 amp supply @45v. Duo 18's dayton plate(500) class ab. Yep I'm pleased,love your channel. 50 year technican.
I am so intrigued that I may just order one very soon. 1db down @ 22Khz for 8ohms seems perfect for my budget 6ohms speakers as they don't have excellent highs anyway. Since I cannot hear anything beyond 15khz, it'll be virtually flat to my ears. Cost is a bit steep though at 60USD and may make me take another look at AIYIMA A07 (a finished TPA3255 retail product) but that won't be a tinkering project anymore. Thank you for reviewing this kit.
Hi Marvin. The Aiyima may well be a better choice, will still give you about 60watts, it's just not bridged but will sound the same. Just avoid the cheapest ones. Full of fake bits.
When I check the photos I see 8x 470 uF 50V. When I drive this Amp with 48V PSU but the capacitor spec are 50V doesn't take long for the capacitor to say bye bye.
I run it @ 40vdc 10 amp. I use 70 hz high pass f-mod and douk pre amp to boost the loss. 8 ohm 3 way towers diy 8 in carbon fiber,dayton 2in dome mid, audax gold titanium tweeters. Sound s like 10 k$ system. I call it the Gaines grasshopper
Unbeatable tpa3255 Combine it with sure wondom potentiometer preamplifier , an input selector, 700 watts power supply and you will have a really perfect amplifier, I have tube amplifier parasound amplifier but this is something extremely value for money.
Thanks for the preamp suggestion. I assume you're referring to the pga2311, which I am very pleased with the improvement. Have you compared a lower wattage ps to the 700w one you recommend? I'm quite impressed with a 350w Meanwell at the moment...
Is this from sure electronics? P. S. I found out it is from yuanjing. BTW, do you have a preference for the output inductors, such as those on this amp vs the sagami type (kind of a ferrous cube)
@@MichaelBeeny It seems like the cubic inductors are by the brand Sagami and intended for class d output use. It claims to have lower dc resistance than the ring type
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Podría indicar, por favor, ¿Qué marca o proveedor elabora el amplificador que ha reseñado? Gracias.
@Michael Beeny one question, if we change the 50v caps on 63 caps, is it will work on 48-50v power supply? or there are any other thing on board, what will blow up :))
@Douglas Blake I'm listening right now at quite high output with 45 volts switching between the 3255 and my other favourite L12/2. They do slightly sound different, not sure which I prefer, most annoying. Both have about the same REAL power.
@@MichaelBeeny I think different is a bass stage, because TPA have 100 damping factor and L12 -200, TPA need 22000 filtered capacitor and then there not will be a different or it will veery unheareable. Its just my opinion :))
@@dimitriskaligeris5506 You are a brave man! 55volts is absolute max and into 4 ohms you will get alot of heat to get rid of. I tend to run mine at 45 volts, more than enough power for me. My speakers run closer to 4 ohms anyway. At present I'm still testing this, so I use a variable power supply. For just background listening I reduce the voltage to around 32 ish. Mainly because I can. I keep the 45 volts for evaluation in detailed power listening. I do quite like it, best class D for sure but overall. I still keep returning to the L12/2 Thanks for watching and contributing, I appreciate it.
Thanks for the infomative Video. could you please let us know what the manufacture of this board is, it would be nice to know as there are so many badly made and designed boards and this seems like a good un' thanks
Hi Robert, these boards do not have any manufactures names or details on them whatsoever. They are basically classed as OEM. If you look on Ali/EBay you will see them listed. Mine came from this retailer. Search for this link on Ali. SKOPERLL Official Store. TPA3255 digital class D dual core high power 2.0 power amplifier board 600W+600W. Other suppliers are available.
Thanks Michael for the reply, it is a bit of a lucky dip then as to how much quality components go into these, you could easily end up with a lemon i suppose@@MichaelBeeny
Sorry...I'm trying to understand and read the scope after not touching it for 30 years. I saw the reading on the scope as Vr = 2.7ish. How do you read 27V off the display? There are also indication of '2V' and '5V' and 0.xx/div...how do I use them?
I was not using the scope to measure the voltage, only to show clipping and waveform. I use a analogue meter, you would have seen it many times. The scope does also show readings, 2.7 is correct but x 10 due to the probe. I find the meter easy to show on cam but forgot to cut in the video of it, but I was reading it out. Not all scope readings were on the x 10 probe.
Hi Michael, I'm driving a pair of Martin Logan Sequel II's with one of these on a Keling 36v 9.7a smps (adjusted up to 40v) and am very impressed. Lots of power and headroom and virtually no heat. I'd like to go to two of these amps and two power supplies and vertically bi amp the Sequel II's and reduce the speaker wires to just a few inches. Do you think there would be any issues with one channel driving the woofer and the other channel driving the electrostatic panel? According to ML, the crossover point is 250hz.
The board already has some capacitance in the filters, 100nF? Didn't look carefully before this answer. So, i would say that a capacitive load which do not exceed the filters capacitance themselves can be accepted. Still I would recommended first an extensive test using the cheapest board available out (some $20), before putting a better and more expensive one.
Seems to me that to genuinely test an amplifier that supposedly puts out 600 watts, that a power supply needs to supply more than 48 volts at 5 amps which is less than 250 watts of power. Amplifiers cannot put out more than you put in. A better test would require at least a 10 amp supply. I think the supply is limiting before the amplifier is.
Hello Mr Beeny, i am writing from Italy. Thank you for your work! I have a question for you: have you ever had problems with thermal protection of the processors? I tried two of those amplifiers (and also another model) with 48 volts switching and with a 8ohm charge, but i always got problem with (i suppose) thermal protection, so now i am forced to try with a lower voltage, but i would like to be sure about why after some minutes my amplifiers stop to work till i restart them! Thank you again!
A quite common issue is poor connection to the heatsink. No or little heatsink compound. Poor mounting of the chip to the heatsink. Another issue is trying to get too much power out of it, components not rated correctly. A lower voltage is often the only option. Fake chips another issue. Some of these amplifiers are just junk!!
@@MichaelBeeny Thank you! I simply followed the statements\instructions that they wrote in the page; So I bought a 48 Volt power supply with no worries! They also told "it is absolutly norma NOW (because with previous model probably NO!) to apply 50 Volt! :) Well... i already changed the heatsink compound and, infact, i got a better general behaviour. They used the pre-applyed ""grey" compound used with computer processors (probably the fans are designed for graphic computer boards), i replaced it with more classic "white" compound (i am not sure about the difference) and it seems to bee better, but anyway after some minutes the protection intervenes. Now i am waiting for 36 volt power supply, and lets see! Than you again, it has been very interesting to find your "slow and essential" videos. I am buying chinese stuff for a lot of years, and i mad very interesting amplifiers and, in general, hifi advices for realtively cheap amounts... Thank you again!
If you purchase this board, I cannot really add much. You connect a pair of loudspeakers, connect the input of your choice. and a power supply. It really is as simple as that. It's not a kit, it's ready assembled as you see it in my video.
@@MichaelBeeny ok i still dont understand where you can install the volume level buton on this board and kind kind of this stuf i can find ? thank's a lot
Does this amp need a small preamp to get the best out of it? I've bought this amp module, and the tone board as well (popping into Jaycar for some resistors to do your mod). But am thinking of not putting in the tone control at least 1st up and see how it sounds. Popping it all into a Foxtel IQ box I got from an ewaste pile. My first amp project. It's a lot of fun and all inspired by you. I've got an old pair of DCM QED speakers that I'm trying to power. They're very inefficient, I'm hoping this project will have enough in reserve to get them sounding good. It's fun anyway, so thanks again. P.S. are there any amp build recommendations you could give for a higher power build (above 200wpc into 8 ohms stereo)?
I don't use a preamp with this amplifier. Will depend on what you connect to it. All my music is on my PC and that drives it perfectly. I would try it without the tone board. If you need tone control and you use a PC, most music player have tone controls you can use. I use Music Bee. I'm sure you will like the Class D, it's one of the better ones.
@@MichaelBeeny Thanks Michael, I've got a Yamaha Vinyl 500 turntable I'm going to feed it with. It has a DAC and streaming service software built in (MusicCast). But no EQ. I've also got an Aiyima T10 DAC coming and that does have inbuilt EQ's if I need it. Thanks for your reply. I wish I had your knowledge. Regards, Ben.
I just picked up the 4-channel version of this same board. I'm making an active stereo amplifier with the Wondom ADAU1701. I'm waiting for my dummy loads in be delivered to test the amps full power with an 800 watt smps running at 48v. I also have the mono board, and I'm attempting to get that 495 watts @ 2 ohm 😂
Hi Rob, this could get confusing!! It contains 2 stereo chips. Each one is in bridge mode. So the complete board is a stereo amplifier. The results on my tests was on one of the channels of the stereo amp... still with me? Out of the box it is a stereo amplifier with a left and right input and used in bridge mode.
@Douglas Blake Exactly. You can answer all my e mail if you like Douglas. I've been replying to mail for 2 hours already this morning, not even had a cuppa T yet.
@Douglas Blake I think you may have miss understood my comments Douglas. They were meant to be a compliment. I value completely you, and others that watch my videos and take time to write. You can never know everything on any subject and I welcome those with more experience and knowledge than myself. I'm just a pensioner with a hobby and enjoy messing about with video and editing.
I'm trying to build a portable speaker (with very limited understanding of the technical stuff) and was recommended this amplifier. My boost converter can only put out a maximum of 27v and I want to connect 2 pairs of 4ohm drivers in parallel, will this cope with a 2ohm load at 27v?
I would try it on 8 ohms first, speakers in series. I think driving it to 2 ohms might well put it into protection made. A 4 ohm speaker could well go down to 3 ohms and 2 in parallel could damage the amplifier. You might get away with it with only 27 volts. Depends on how loud you need to play it at. Even at 27 volts you will need at least about 5 amps possibly more. So many variables I can't give you an accurate figures. Bit of trail and error. Good luck.
@@MichaelBeeny it turns out i misread the specifications of the boost converter and the output is actually 24v up to 48v, I don't know if that would increase the chances of the amplifier coping with a 2ohm load. The lipo batteries I'm using should be able to handle up to 100 amps but I don't know if any other component might limit the amps.
@@ambientvoid If you must use 2 ohms, I would keep the voltage as low as possible to give you enough power. Don't be tempted to use 48 volts. It will be in current limiting most of the time and run really hot. What will it be used for? speech, light music or HEAVY stuff? The later will mean high power, high current, low battery life. As I said before, no simple answer.
@@MichaelBeeny I'm very new to this so it's entirely possible I've misunderstood how ohms work. I'm leaning towards bass heavy music but I don't have a huge amount of battery space and I've been assuming that a 2ohm load would draw less power (for a longer lasting battery) than an 8ohm load for the same volume, I have a separate mono amplifier for the subwoofer driver so I'm not expecting this amplifier to need to support very much in the way of bass.
@@ambientvoid Power is power, the higher the voltage the less current and visa versa. The draw from the battery will be more or less the same. As far as the amplifier is concerned, if you must use 2 ohms use the lowest voltage you can to get the required power. That will be the most efficient and safest way to keep the amplifier happy.
@Douglas Blake Thanks Douglas, you explained this very well. I think I miss read the question. Almost anything is possible with extra bits connected, I assumed he meant, as the board is supplied.
Doesn't even get warm @ 8 ohm ,3 way system. Use 36v mean well 10 amp, phone headphone jack works great. Use sine wave and kill tweeters... harrison fmods @ 70 hz high pass attenuate high badly . Good parts one on ebay for 110 dollars, amazon 127 . No replacement fan available. Buy good pair with higher flow only for 4 ohm Use. I love this board. Retired technical, engineers age 68. Designer of custom stuff over 50 years. You will hear from me some. Very few are at our level. I also am into photography. Miss America 92, 2 runner-up's also . I did stunning work. All square pictures inside Fleetwood Mac album, mine. Put system in Bob segar, torino 72 two original Craig powerplay 4 jensen 6x9. Lololol , I may write a book but all my negs were stolen, priceless, Bear Bryant staff photog 73. Unseen sideline work,mine I managed to put out 1 new design this year , building from wheelchair, I see these rave reviews of 6.5 two way overpriced , In the 80' s my doors had 2 6.5 and I built my dome front drivers with replacement horn diaphragms glued to jensen 6x9 magnets ,I was a little ahead of my time..
Yes, that is exactly the way to go, I'm sure I did suggest this in the video or a follow up. Works very well like that and of course the noise drops a great deal.
Not really, it does use an op amp but it's not in the audio loop. It is purely a VLF feedback servo loop from the speaker output back to one of the TDA inputs. This acts as an "auto zero null" function. One reason why the DC offset is so low. It does not contribute to gain or anything audio at all.
well, good capacitors do not blow up at even 15% over nominal voltage; never ever. I used 100V caps at 105V long term (10 to 15 years), of course not hot. They do not blow up. :) But at 20-25% over nominal they DO blow up, after some time.
Well, that is your choice. Personally, I would never over rate ANY electrolytic. I must ask the question, why would you? I higher voltage rating would probably add a few cents extra.
Well, it was operational constraints. I did electronics since 75, so I am accustomed to the old ways of doing stuff. Since then, reputable manufacturers of electronic components typically leave some 10 to 25% margin, always (reputable, not chinese.., those have negative margin, haha. .). Since 2005 i did a custom model of PoE, initially local, but after several months to all my country. The PoE operated to 90V initially, amd have 100V capacitors for filtering both at emitters (230V to 90V 75W supplies in the first years) and receivers (small dc-dc 65...100 to 9V 1A flyback converters). After some time, all my customers need extended lines, up to 1km typically. , and the first approach was to increase the 90v (modifying a resistor in the main supply), initially to 96v and, after some time, to 103...105v, same resistor. So, of course with some reluctancy initially, even I knew well that they will withstand, I did not expect to work for years. But years passed and I did the supplies since then at 103V (102...104 mostly) and have no problem ever. Peak production was in 2010-2012. Were several thousands of 55, 75, 100 125 and 165W flyback mains supplies an several thousands of dcgdc 9W and 13W converters using these caoacitors, mostly Fujicon (other brands sparsely.) I typically obviously do not recommended to others this approach, but hey, they work. As a comment, can be done.
Not the same board but same chipset. With the basic psu(32v 5a) the aiyima 07 you’ll get 53w x2 @8ohm, 95w x2 @4ohm both at 1% thd not 10% how aiyima and ti present the specs With the 48v 5.2a 120x2 @8ohm, 170x2 @4ohm at 1%thd I use one with my mean well lrs-350-48, it’s 48v 7.3a. Driving a 4ohm speaker right at 200rms each but imo I’m making this amp out considering the 50v caps though I was told it’s good to 52v
Same chip on the Aiyima A07, but 2 of them on this board and only a single 3255 on the A07. I have the A07 and it struggles with my inefficient DCM speakers. I’m still playing around with this new board but the power increase is really noticeable compared with my A07. My A07 also gets very hot (searing with a 7.3 amp 48v at max volume after about 30 minutes, after that I can smell it like a plastic fire so I turn it off. All that for 80db coming from the speakers. This duel amp is a lot more power, gets my speakers to 90db at 1.1v input which I’m guessing is about 65% of its total power, gets warm 43c on the heat sinks only and I can run it at those volumes and higher consistently. Soundstage is wide and holographic. Bass is much more punchy is the biggest sound improvement I’ve noticed and surprised me. Also sounds awesome at very low volumes with these speakers, something the A07 just didn’t. I’ve carried over the 7.3 amp power supply I bought as an upgrade to my A07, it is running at 46.5v (dailed down). I’m keeping my A07 but it’s in the draw for now until I can find a use case for it. So I like the sound of the A07 and that’s why I was looking at this video. I purchased the board in this vid and am currently using it. Until I can afford a Macintosh (win the lotto or something), this board will do.
Hi! There is no such thing to get more oylutput power than you have on power supply. Class D amplifier are 90% efficient. That's mean if You want 600W output power, than You need at least 700W power supply. On class AB amplifier, that is even worse. For 2x100W, You need at least 300VA transformer.
Don't forget the loudspeaker impedance is a nominal figure. In the real world a 6-ohm speakers' impedance will probably vary between as much a 20 or more ohms at its resonant frequency and as little as 3/4 ohms,
Will this boar do 100W 8Ohm- looking for budget amp 100W 8Ohm no crazy noise floor and im pulling my hair out especially as a first timer...Trying to make a multichannel amp
Still a tempting BTLD board in 2024/25. Keep in mind: Compared to the reference TI design, the caps are a bit on the low side (8x470uF), so maybe adding another 2200-4700 uF at the DC input is the way to go.
If you really want to max it out when complex impedance speakers are driven, 10A or even 15A SMPS are needed.
Biggest advantage of the bridged TPA3255 is the stability down to 2 Ohms and the thermal behavior. Excellent for low frequency work.
Many of this boards (aiyima) come with chunky passive heat sinks, that I like. Adding a vent in the case as a option, often not neccessary.
The output filters are NOT calculated for 8 or 6 Ohm (a 6 Ohm tweeter has around 7 Ohms @ 15K, 8 Ohm tweeter around 10 Ohm @ 15 k). they are calculated for flat 4 Ohm in the highs, that's not a practical value (1uF are used in combination with 10uH coils here).
In practice this is most times a little off and make the highs too bright and harsh sounding. Especially with this kind of filter chokes.
Better value is 0.68 uF or a little lower, to reach a Q around 0.7 This fits 90 % of the tweeters out there way better and close to ideal.
Talking about filters, the simple toroidal powder FE are somehow O.K. for around 1 A but but they struggle clearly with 100W or even 200+ W that can be achieved with this amp.
If you want to rise the quality of this module to another level, exchange the filter coils with Wurth 7443782012100 MnZn shielded coils and put 0.68 uF Wima MKS2 caps in.
If you want to go further, change the limiting 470 uF 50V caps to Chemikon EKYB630ELL102MK40S 1000uF 63V and then the amp will become a pretty neat sounding monster.
When you look at the impedance curve of most speakers, they have areas that dip to 4 ohms or even below four ohms and it’s usually nowhere near the high frequency range. For this reason, perhaps it makes sense to design the filters for an 8 ohm load because in those frequency ranges, that’s what you’re likely to see.
Even when I look at for full range drivers with no crossover, typically in the high frequency range, the impedance is well above eight ohms.
The only speakers I’ve ever seen that have a flat impedance all the way up through the high frequency range is something like MAGNEPAN’s, and to be honest, something like that would be interesting to hear on an amp like this, because you need so much power
Thank you so much for these videos… They are a treasure trove of information. Take care. BR, Per (DK)
Thank you Nakfan, most appreciated.
When you look at the impedance curve of most speakers, they have areas that dip toohms or even below four ohms and it’s usually nowhere near the high frequency range. For this reason, perhaps it makes sense to design the filters for an 8 ohm load because in those frequency ranges, that’s what you’re likely to see.
Even when I look at for full range drivers, typically in the high frequency range, the impedance is well above eight ohms.
I just discovered your channel and I like your format!
Thankyou Ryan, much appreciated.
Thankyou for posting these videos. I get allot out of your content and am greatful.
Thank you for watching, I really appreciate it.
The TPA3255 can definitely deliver the power listed on the TI datasheet, but it has to pass all of the heat through a rather small metal heat slug on the top of its surface mount package. Therefore the interface between the IC and the heat sink is very critical. It's important to use a really high quality heat sink compound, like arctic silver ceramique or the like. That's probably not the compound used by most of these lower cost board makers. So it gives the end user an opportunity to improve power output and thermal performance.
FYI you are right about the power ratings that most people quote (300W/channel). That is a bragging number quoted at 10% THD (square wave) for makers of boom boxes and the like who want big numbers on the boxes. The datasheet also shows the actual power on the THD vs power graph right on the front page though, and you can see the real sine wave power is around 100W onto 8 Ohms or 180W into 4 Ohms at
Going electronic 2 way grs 2.0 tweeter @ 2500hz, fixing the eq from youtube music ,audio tests and now has graphic eq. O MG, from amazing grace to tièsto , I have home concert not home theater.
Bring on the pitiful 5.1 that cost as much as a car. I build for folks that have love for car and home audio. I HAVE HISTORY AM DYING SOON AND I LOVE TO SHARE ! Great channel
I got an Aiyima A07 that uses the TPA3255 chip. It came with a 36v 6a power supply and it was loud and sounded good but I ordered a 48v 7.5a power supply and it sounds incredible! I think it's giving around 135w at 6 ohms through my 140w 6 ohm speakers. The only problem with the new power supply is the fan is extremely loud!!
Hi Brendan, I would be careful running the amplifier at such a high voltage, mainly because of the lack of ventilation in the case. Regarding the fan noise, you could always reduce the fan speed a little just make sure it does not overheat.
@@MichaelBeeny Ok, I might adjust the voltage down a bit then. Thanks for the tip.
@@brendanhoffmann8402 Always use the lowest voltage you really need to get the results you need. The amplifier performance is the same and will sound the same, all you will lose is power, of course, and dynamic range, but at normal listing level there will be no difference, except heat.
@@MichaelBeeny I was messing around with it just now and have decided it doesn't make enough difference to really use the bigger power supply. the 36v 6a power supply sounds really good still and is silent. The fan really is so annoying with the big power supply.
@@brendanhoffmann8402 I think you have made the right decision, cooler electronics will always win long term.
Great video. Thank you. Did you happen to grab the input impedance of the amplifier during your test?
Ha, neat, perhaps this could drive Magnepan speakers, or at least sections of them. It seems like the current is there. Nice video, as always
@Michael Beeny. Hello, Michael, I want to express my great gratitude to you for your work. Your videos are very informative. Personally, I want to wish you health, patience and courage.
If it is not difficult for you to answer, I would like to ask a question. Can I connect speakers with a power of 120 watts and a resistance of 8 ohms (minimum resistance of 4.7 ohms) to this amplifier? And what voltage would you recommend applying to an amplifier with such parameters? I am grateful in advance for the answer.
Mr. Beeny, you should try a 3e-audio's Tpa3255 mono boards (if you can find them anymore), the sound is absolutely gorgeous, I made one of them for me and was very satisfied. big chocks with low resistance, working voltage 51, big capacitors, balanced inputs and absolutely brilliant sound :)) i measured and compared it to many hi-end amps like Marantz, Krell, Mcintosh and was veery satisfied with it sound. This is the best Tpa3255 boards what i can found on market.
On a quick look from the usual places, not found any so far. If you see a supplier, let me know.
Thanks to you and this video I bought this amplifier. I still waiting for the customs to release my amp
The board exist in mono version. Could make cool monoblocks....but what about a suited DC speaker protection board?
Not much point in getting 2 mono units, this is basically that anyway. Speaker protection is a major issue. You cannot use any of the standard ones because, neither output for the speaker is reference to ground. Best you can do is a fast blow fuse in line with one leg of the speaker. Better than nothing. This is something I am looking at at present.
@Douglas Blake I'm not sure it can protect your speakers from an internal issue, like a DC fault. It's too expensive to try this!!
I use a douk preamplifier 5532's 45volt 11 amp smps , 70hz high pass f-mods. 8 ohm 3 way AMTTweeters poly mica 5 in mids or 2 in al daytons mids, 8in carbon fiber woofers . Subs are duo dayton 18's. 500 watt ab plate. My last system(poverty) all driven from a13 5g phone. Cold,quiet, reliable has run for 3 months non stop. No damage to drivers either. I have built repaired for 50 plus years also ,your fault inspired me..
Great video! Have you considered the IRS2092 based amplifiers (LJM for example)?. They require symmetrical PS but I believe you'll find them more impressive.
I am adding 70hz f-mods and a douk preamp to restore the 3db line loss. Trying the hiel type ribbons, poly mica 5in mids and 8in carbon fiber cast frame driver. All 8 ohm. 800,5k xover.10 amp supply @45v.
Duo 18's dayton plate(500) class ab.
Yep I'm pleased,love your channel. 50 year technican.
I am so intrigued that I may just order one very soon. 1db down @ 22Khz for 8ohms seems perfect for my budget 6ohms speakers as they don't have excellent highs anyway. Since I cannot hear anything beyond 15khz, it'll be virtually flat to my ears. Cost is a bit steep though at 60USD and may make me take another look at AIYIMA A07 (a finished TPA3255 retail product) but that won't be a tinkering project anymore. Thank you for reviewing this kit.
Hi Marvin. The Aiyima may well be a better choice, will still give you about 60watts, it's just not bridged but will sound the same. Just avoid the cheapest ones. Full of fake bits.
Amazing job! thanks from Brazil!
When I check the photos I see 8x 470 uF 50V. When I drive this Amp with 48V PSU but the capacitor spec are 50V doesn't take long for the capacitor to say bye bye.
I would not use the amplifier at such a high voltage. I would use a max of 45 volts
I have been thinking about buying one of these. for a portable speaker project.
this is what i wanted to know.
thank you
Good luck with the project.
Excellent video Sir. Learned so much from you.🎉🎉🎉
Thank you for the kind words, much appreciated.
I run it @ 40vdc 10 amp. I use 70 hz high pass f-mod and douk pre amp to boost the loss. 8 ohm 3 way towers diy 8 in carbon fiber,dayton 2in dome mid, audax gold titanium tweeters. Sound s like 10 k$ system. I call it the Gaines grasshopper
Unbeatable tpa3255
Combine it with sure wondom potentiometer preamplifier , an input selector, 700 watts power supply and you will have a really perfect amplifier, I have tube amplifier parasound amplifier but this is something extremely value for money.
Thanks for the preamp suggestion. I assume you're referring to the pga2311, which I am very pleased with the improvement. Have you compared a lower wattage ps to the 700w one you recommend? I'm quite impressed with a 350w Meanwell at the moment...
Is this from sure electronics?
P. S. I found out it is from yuanjing.
BTW, do you have a preference for the output inductors, such as those on this amp vs the sagami type (kind of a ferrous cube)
The larger ring type tend to be used on the more expensive ones but I have no real way to compare them.
@@MichaelBeeny It seems like the cubic inductors are by the brand Sagami and intended for class d output use.
It claims to have lower dc resistance than the ring type
Podría indicar, por favor, ¿Qué marca o proveedor elabora el amplificador que ha reseñado? Gracias.
@Michael Beeny one question, if we change the 50v caps on 63 caps, is it will work on 48-50v power supply? or there are any other thing on board, what will blow up :))
I would still not go above 48 volts. Do you really need to push it so hard?
@Douglas Blake I'm listening right now at quite high output with 45 volts switching between the 3255 and my other favourite L12/2. They do slightly sound different, not sure which I prefer, most annoying. Both have about the same REAL power.
@@MichaelBeeny I think different is a bass stage, because TPA have 100 damping factor and L12 -200, TPA need 22000 filtered capacitor and then there not will be a different or it will veery unheareable. Its just my opinion :))
TPA can work at 55volts, look TI specs.
I drive own at 48V, I replaced caps at 63V and everything is perfect
@@dimitriskaligeris5506 You are a brave man! 55volts is absolute max and into 4 ohms you will get alot of heat to get rid of. I tend to run mine at 45 volts, more than enough power for me. My speakers run closer to 4 ohms anyway. At present I'm still testing this, so I use a variable power supply. For just background listening I reduce the voltage to around 32 ish. Mainly because I can. I keep the 45 volts for evaluation in detailed power listening. I do quite like it, best class D for sure but overall. I still keep returning to the L12/2 Thanks for watching and contributing, I appreciate it.
Thanks for the infomative Video. could you please let us know what the manufacture of this board is, it would be nice to know as there are so many badly made and designed boards and this seems like a good un' thanks
Hi Robert, these boards do not have any manufactures names or details on them whatsoever. They are basically classed as OEM. If you look on Ali/EBay you will see them listed. Mine came from this retailer. Search for this link on Ali.
SKOPERLL Official Store. TPA3255 digital class D dual core high power 2.0 power amplifier board 600W+600W. Other suppliers are available.
Thanks Michael for the reply, it is a bit of a lucky dip then as to how much quality components go into these, you could easily end up with a lemon i suppose@@MichaelBeeny
@@robertbarton3556 If you really want to go class D at a reasonable price, this one does perform quite well. Class AB better in my opinion.
Спасибо за обзор и замеры
Nice review. Thanks!
Sorry...I'm trying to understand and read the scope after not touching it for 30 years. I saw the reading on the scope as Vr = 2.7ish. How do you read 27V off the display? There are also indication of '2V' and '5V' and 0.xx/div...how do I use them?
I was not using the scope to measure the voltage, only to show clipping and waveform. I use a analogue meter, you would have seen it many times. The scope does also show readings, 2.7 is correct but x 10 due to the probe. I find the meter easy to show on cam but forgot to cut in the video of it, but I was reading it out. Not all scope readings were on the x 10 probe.
@@MichaelBeeny thanks for the explanation.
Am looking out for a scope. What would be a good budget for a decent scope?
Hi Michael,
I'm driving a pair of Martin Logan Sequel II's with one of these on a Keling 36v 9.7a smps (adjusted up to 40v) and am very impressed. Lots of power and headroom and virtually no heat. I'd like to go to two of these amps and two power supplies and vertically bi amp the Sequel II's and reduce the speaker wires to just a few inches. Do you think there would be any issues with one channel driving the woofer and the other channel driving the electrostatic panel? According to ML, the crossover point is 250hz.
Should not a problem. Never tried an electrostatic load, however.
The board already has some capacitance in the filters, 100nF? Didn't look carefully before this answer. So, i would say that a capacitive load which do not exceed the filters capacitance themselves can be accepted. Still I would recommended first an extensive test using the cheapest board available out (some $20), before putting a better and more expensive one.
2 dB down at 20 kHz! My 79-year-old ears left that part of the spectrum a long time ago; even 13 kHz is lost to me without hearing aids.😟
My left ear hum since covid. Still keen on music.🎉🎉
Seems to me that to genuinely test an amplifier that supposedly puts out 600 watts, that a power supply needs to supply more than 48 volts at 5 amps which is less than 250 watts of power. Amplifiers cannot put out more than you put in. A better test would require at least a 10 amp supply. I think the supply is limiting before the amplifier is.
As the none bridged version clamed 300 watts, I measured 100 watts no extra current will get it up to 600 watts. I do take your point, however.
Hello Mr Beeny, i am writing from Italy. Thank you for your work! I have a question for you: have you ever had problems with thermal protection of the processors? I tried two of those amplifiers (and also another model) with 48 volts switching and with a 8ohm charge, but i always got problem with (i suppose) thermal protection, so now i am forced to try with a lower voltage, but i would like to be sure about why after some minutes my amplifiers stop to work till i restart them! Thank you again!
A quite common issue is poor connection to the heatsink. No or little heatsink compound. Poor mounting of the chip to the heatsink. Another issue is trying to get too much power out of it, components not rated correctly. A lower voltage is often the only option. Fake chips another issue. Some of these amplifiers are just junk!!
@@MichaelBeeny Thank you! I simply followed the statements\instructions that they wrote in the page; So I bought a 48 Volt power supply with no worries! They also told "it is absolutly norma NOW (because with previous model probably NO!) to apply 50 Volt! :) Well... i already changed the heatsink compound and, infact, i got a better general behaviour. They used the pre-applyed ""grey" compound used with computer processors (probably the fans are designed for graphic computer boards), i replaced it with more classic "white" compound (i am not sure about the difference) and it seems to bee better, but anyway after some minutes the protection intervenes. Now i am waiting for 36 volt power supply, and lets see! Than you again, it has been very interesting to find your "slow and essential" videos. I am buying chinese stuff for a lot of years, and i mad very interesting amplifiers and, in general, hifi advices for realtively cheap amounts... Thank you again!
great video - I'll have to grab some of these boards...
please give us a tutorial to assembly this card and made a little amp . thank's a lot
If you purchase this board, I cannot really add much. You connect a pair of loudspeakers, connect the input of your choice. and a power supply. It really is as simple as that. It's not a kit, it's ready assembled as you see it in my video.
@@MichaelBeeny ok i still dont understand where you can install the volume level buton on this board and kind kind of this stuf i can find ? thank's a lot
@@franckalberto4078 the store that sells these also sell a preamp chip called ne5532 where you have tone and volume Control
@@oscarsjolund9672 ok i suppose something like this ?ua-cam.com/video/wp6uz0wEuxk/v-deo.html
Hello, i need a class D for driving 2 12" BMS
12S330. Do you think these would do or should i go for something else ? Thank you for great video
I don't know these exact speakers but this or any speaker can be driven as long as the impedances add up and the speakers can handle the power.
Does this amp need a small preamp to get the best out of it? I've bought this amp module, and the tone board as well (popping into Jaycar for some resistors to do your mod). But am thinking of not putting in the tone control at least 1st up and see how it sounds. Popping it all into a Foxtel IQ box I got from an ewaste pile. My first amp project. It's a lot of fun and all inspired by you. I've got an old pair of DCM QED speakers that I'm trying to power. They're very inefficient, I'm hoping this project will have enough in reserve to get them sounding good. It's fun anyway, so thanks again.
P.S. are there any amp build recommendations you could give for a higher power build (above 200wpc into 8 ohms stereo)?
I don't use a preamp with this amplifier. Will depend on what you connect to it. All my music is on my PC and that drives it perfectly. I would try it without the tone board. If you need tone control and you use a PC, most music player have tone controls you can use. I use Music Bee. I'm sure you will like the Class D, it's one of the better ones.
@@MichaelBeeny Thanks Michael, I've got a Yamaha Vinyl 500 turntable I'm going to feed it with. It has a DAC and streaming service software built in (MusicCast). But no EQ. I've also got an Aiyima T10 DAC coming and that does have inbuilt EQ's if I need it. Thanks for your reply. I wish I had your knowledge. Regards, Ben.
Hi Michael. What is the audio input connector ? A 3 pin JST ? I want to prepare for the board i have ordered :)
A short cable of about 12 inches was supplied with the correct plug to open end tinned wires. You can see this 8 minutes into the video.
I just picked up the 4-channel version of this same board. I'm making an active stereo amplifier with the Wondom ADAU1701. I'm waiting for my dummy loads in be delivered to test the amps full power with an 800 watt smps running at 48v. I also have the mono board, and I'm attempting to get that 495 watts @ 2 ohm 😂
I'm sure we will all be interested in your results as soon as you have them. Not sure about 2 ohms in bridge mode, that's a lot of current.
@@MichaelBeeny The smps supposedly has 15+ amps so I, theoretically, should have enough current. The mono amp should be wired in PBTL.
Can this amp be hooked 4 channel or bridged 2 channel either one?
And these tests are in bridged mode.... yes?
Hi Rob, this could get confusing!! It contains 2 stereo chips. Each one is in bridge mode. So the complete board is a stereo amplifier. The results on my tests was on one of the channels of the stereo amp... still with me? Out of the box it is a stereo amplifier with a left and right input and used in bridge mode.
@Douglas Blake Exactly. You can answer all my e mail if you like Douglas. I've been replying to mail for 2 hours already this morning, not even had a cuppa T yet.
@Douglas Blake I think you may have miss understood my comments Douglas. They were meant to be a compliment. I value completely you, and others that watch my videos and take time to write. You can never know everything on any subject and I welcome those with more experience and knowledge than myself. I'm just a pensioner with a hobby and enjoy messing about with video and editing.
I'm trying to build a portable speaker (with very limited understanding of the technical stuff) and was recommended this amplifier. My boost converter can only put out a maximum of 27v and I want to connect 2 pairs of 4ohm drivers in parallel, will this cope with a 2ohm load at 27v?
I would try it on 8 ohms first, speakers in series. I think driving it to 2 ohms might well put it into protection made. A 4 ohm speaker could well go down to 3 ohms and 2 in parallel could damage the amplifier. You might get away with it with only 27 volts. Depends on how loud you need to play it at. Even at 27 volts you will need at least about 5 amps possibly more. So many variables I can't give you an accurate figures. Bit of trail and error. Good luck.
@@MichaelBeeny it turns out i misread the specifications of the boost converter and the output is actually 24v up to 48v, I don't know if that would increase the chances of the amplifier coping with a 2ohm load. The lipo batteries I'm using should be able to handle up to 100 amps but I don't know if any other component might limit the amps.
@@ambientvoid If you must use 2 ohms, I would keep the voltage as low as possible to give you enough power. Don't be tempted to use 48 volts. It will be in current limiting most of the time and run really hot. What will it be used for? speech, light music or HEAVY stuff? The later will mean high power, high current, low battery life. As I said before, no simple answer.
@@MichaelBeeny I'm very new to this so it's entirely possible I've misunderstood how ohms work. I'm leaning towards bass heavy music but I don't have a huge amount of battery space and I've been assuming that a 2ohm load would draw less power (for a longer lasting battery) than an 8ohm load for the same volume, I have a separate mono amplifier for the subwoofer driver so I'm not expecting this amplifier to need to support very much in the way of bass.
@@ambientvoid Power is power, the higher the voltage the less current and visa versa. The draw from the battery will be more or less the same. As far as the amplifier is concerned, if you must use 2 ohms use the lowest voltage you can to get the required power. That will be the most efficient and safest way to keep the amplifier happy.
No link to the product page... ???
You can buy this from many suppliers on Ali and EBay, no one in particular. Just type TPA3255 Class D bridged amplifier 600 watts. You should find it.
Class "A" or "AA" is hard to beat.
Especially in the winter when you need to heat the listening room!
impossible. class A while driving a reactivate load?
absolutely ridiculous.
You mean AB, right ? Cause pure A is impractical.
If you like spending money on winter , class A is ideal, 90% heat 10% effect, we live on 21 century
@@krazzykiller1 you sound like a Ford Mustang driver 🐎..
this amp will do a lot more will some more amps/volts
your power supply is only rated for 240watt
a 10Amp would put you around 480 watts
hi there, I'm a bit of a newbie. can this board be fed a balanced audio signal?
Probably not, inputs are un balanced. As no circuity is available it's quite hard to tell if it could be modified. We were all newbies once!
@Douglas Blake Thanks Douglas, you explained this very well. I think I miss read the question. Almost anything is possible with extra bits connected, I assumed he meant, as the board is supplied.
Doesn't even get warm @ 8 ohm ,3 way system. Use 36v mean well 10 amp, phone headphone jack works great. Use sine wave and kill tweeters... harrison fmods @ 70 hz high pass attenuate high badly . Good parts one on ebay for 110 dollars, amazon 127 . No replacement fan available. Buy good pair with higher flow only for 4 ohm Use. I love this board. Retired technical, engineers age 68. Designer of custom stuff over 50 years. You will hear from me some. Very few are at our level. I also am into photography. Miss America 92, 2 runner-up's also . I did stunning work. All square pictures inside Fleetwood Mac album, mine. Put system in Bob segar, torino 72 two original Craig powerplay 4 jensen 6x9. Lololol , I may write a book but all my negs were stolen, priceless, Bear Bryant staff photog 73. Unseen sideline work,mine I managed to put out 1 new design this year , building from wheelchair, I see these rave reviews of 6.5 two way overpriced , In the 80' s my doors had 2 6.5 and I built my dome front drivers with replacement horn diaphragms glued to jensen 6x9 magnets ,I was a little ahead of my time..
Ever test it with the fans in series? How did it go?
Yes, that is exactly the way to go, I'm sure I did suggest this in the video or a follow up. Works very well like that and of course the noise drops a great deal.
@@MichaelBeeny that’s also a good reason to get the stereo board.
175 watts at 1k is tear your head off loud.
Your voice reminded me the movie Saw.
I'm not sure if that's good or bad??
What amp board is this please? I must've missed what the name or company this board is from.
You can buy this from many suppliers on Ali and EBay, no one in particular. Just type TPA3255 Class D bridged amplifier 600 watts. You should find it.
Great video! 👍
Does this amp use an op-amp to boost the signal?
Not really, it does use an op amp but it's not in the audio loop. It is purely a VLF feedback servo loop from the speaker output back to one of the TDA inputs.
This acts as an "auto zero null" function. One reason why the DC offset is so low. It does not contribute to gain or anything audio at all.
@@MichaelBeeny Thanks!
Mạch pbtl tôi chạy 48v 20a với tải 2 ohm vẫn chạy tốt hơn 1 năm nay
well, good capacitors do not blow up at even 15% over nominal voltage; never ever. I used 100V caps at 105V long term (10 to 15 years), of course not hot. They do not blow up. :) But at 20-25% over nominal they DO blow up, after some time.
Well, that is your choice. Personally, I would never over rate ANY electrolytic. I must ask the question, why would you? I higher voltage rating would probably add a few cents extra.
Well, it was operational constraints. I did electronics since 75, so I am accustomed to the old ways of doing stuff. Since then, reputable manufacturers of electronic components typically leave some 10 to 25% margin, always (reputable, not chinese.., those have negative margin, haha. .).
Since 2005 i did a custom model of PoE, initially local, but after several months to all my country. The PoE operated to 90V initially, amd have 100V capacitors for filtering both at emitters (230V to 90V 75W supplies in the first years) and receivers (small dc-dc 65...100 to 9V 1A flyback converters). After some time, all my customers need extended lines, up to 1km typically. , and the first approach was to increase the 90v (modifying a resistor in the main supply), initially to 96v and, after some time, to 103...105v, same resistor. So, of course with some reluctancy initially, even I knew well that they will withstand, I did not expect to work for years. But years passed and I did the supplies since then at 103V (102...104 mostly) and have no problem ever. Peak production was in 2010-2012. Were several thousands of 55, 75, 100 125 and 165W flyback mains supplies an several thousands of dcgdc 9W and 13W converters using these caoacitors, mostly Fujicon (other brands sparsely.) I typically obviously do not recommended to others this approach, but hey, they work. As a comment, can be done.
Aiyima A07 has this board
No it doesn’t.
Not the same board but same chipset. With the basic psu(32v 5a) the aiyima 07 you’ll get 53w x2 @8ohm, 95w x2 @4ohm both at 1% thd not 10% how aiyima and ti present the specs
With the 48v 5.2a 120x2 @8ohm, 170x2 @4ohm at 1%thd
I use one with my mean well lrs-350-48, it’s 48v 7.3a. Driving a 4ohm speaker right at 200rms each but imo I’m making this amp out considering the 50v caps though I was told it’s good to 52v
Oh at 2 ohm, it’ll do 300x2 fyi
Same chip on the Aiyima A07, but 2 of them on this board and only a single 3255 on the A07. I have the A07 and it struggles with my inefficient DCM speakers. I’m still playing around with this new board but the power increase is really noticeable compared with my A07. My A07 also gets very hot (searing with a 7.3 amp 48v at max volume after about 30 minutes, after that I can smell it like a plastic fire so I turn it off. All that for 80db coming from the speakers. This duel amp is a lot more power, gets my speakers to 90db at 1.1v input which I’m guessing is about 65% of its total power, gets warm 43c on the heat sinks only and I can run it at those volumes and higher consistently. Soundstage is wide and holographic. Bass is much more punchy is the biggest sound improvement I’ve noticed and surprised me. Also sounds awesome at very low volumes with these speakers, something the A07 just didn’t. I’ve carried over the 7.3 amp power supply I bought as an upgrade to my A07, it is running at 46.5v (dailed down). I’m keeping my A07 but it’s in the draw for now until I can find a use case for it. So I like the sound of the A07 and that’s why I was looking at this video. I purchased the board in this vid and am currently using it. Until I can afford a Macintosh (win the lotto or something), this board will do.
At 2 ohms it will probably be in protect mood most of the time. Not recommended.@@hybridstudios39
Hi! There is no such thing to get more oylutput power than you have on power supply. Class D amplifier are 90% efficient. That's mean if You want 600W output power, than You need at least 700W power supply. On class AB amplifier, that is even worse. For 2x100W, You need at least 300VA transformer.
Молодец дядька
UNCLE??
@@MichaelBeeny ага
The thing with Tpa3255 is that they are too overprotective on BTL configuration but far better on PBTL
you should go liquid cooling
They don't get bad hot,building case with one big fan for amps and supply 45 vdc
Возможно 600W при 2 Ом
Я бы вообще не рекомендовал 2 Ом. Это почти короткое замыкание. Большую часть времени он будет находиться в защищенном настроении.
@@MichaelBeenyНепонятно откуда производитель пишет 600W. Но звук мне нравится. Сейчас слушаю динамики 8 ом
@@MichaelBeeny not in BTLD mode, the chip is working like in stereo 2x4 Ohm mode.
Nice
I have 6 Ohm speakers
Yes, I was surprised too about what he says.
Don't forget the loudspeaker impedance is a nominal figure. In the real world a 6-ohm speakers' impedance will probably vary between as much a 20 or more ohms at its resonant frequency and as little as 3/4 ohms,
Blades are very fragile
I have replaced the fans with other, state of art 18db noise!
Will this boar do 100W 8Ohm- looking for budget amp 100W 8Ohm no crazy noise floor and im pulling my hair out especially as a first timer...Trying to make a multichannel amp
This is quite a good class D. I do explain, I though quite well! The REAL power you can expect from this amplifier.