After watching loads of videos on the general topic of blade centering, this vid is the best and clearest by far on the topic, and it doesn't even list that subject in the vid title. More's the pity, because there's a lot of confusing or misleading info on the topic. This video is completely consistent with my recent experiences on some new liner-lock knives I have. And thanks also for the info on free exchanges of worn torx bits at ACE Hardware.
Thank you for the helpful video. I have a new Ontario Rat 1 with a very stiff liner lock which can often make it difficult to close knife. Is there sometjhing I can do about that ? Thanks
great video!!!! seems like a video that everyone who doesn't have the experience with dealing with these issues should watch, really glad to see you make this. first off use a good lube no matter what! Dave, I think knows how big of a fan of tuf-glide I am. lol :P, on frame locks and some liner locks, I will (before tuf-glide) push down on the lock-bar to create more friction, therefore allowing the detent ball to wear in a bit of a groove into the hole that the ball rests in, also on the same note it will allow the detent ball and the blade tang face to smooth out some, I then will apply the tuf-glide and work the blade more, a few mins at most and then allow it to dry out overnight. I then will use a air compressor to blow out the pivot area to get out any debris and then re-apply tuf-glide. I find that this will improve the performance of the opening a great deal, and takes the breaking in time down to a minimum. anything else would be done internally once the knife is apart which, to me, generally is a last resort unless I am doing modifications or giving a knife a full take down cleaning. there are a few other tricks/tips I can think of, but hard to explain on a comment, may have to do a video showing them.
Great vid as usually my friend. Already knew most the stuff but this video will really help someone just starting to get into knives. Or someone just starting to care about the action on their knives, This would be a treasure trove.But I will admit even I picked up a bit of info. I had that same issue with my Tenacious and I thought I was a lone wolf with that? Anyways all around Great video. Liked and Shared!
Or just don't buy those big bulky and what you said expensive knives. I just bought a Kershaw and it Works perfect right out of box. Those look huge heavy and one came with a flashlight? Looks cheap.
Thanks for the video, interesting topic and well made. Here's a few tips. Buy the best tools that you can afford. Sometimes the lock-bar is bearing on the tang too hard. Carefully bending the liner or frame can help centre the blade and reduce friction so the blade pops out faster and smoother, be careful of overextending the lock-bar though, try a little at a time. Tuf-Glide is amazing. Phosphor-bronze washers are very much better than nylon, replace nylon with the largest the diameter phosphor-bronze that will fit. USAKnifemaker dot com has a good range.
Thanks so much that helped me so much it’s fine now and perfectly centred
it has been 6 years since but he is still breaking in these darn two knives =)
After watching loads of videos on the general topic of blade centering, this vid is the best and clearest by far on the topic, and it doesn't even list that subject in the vid title. More's the pity, because there's a lot of confusing or misleading info on the topic. This video is completely consistent with my recent experiences on some new liner-lock knives I have. And thanks also for the info on free exchanges of worn torx bits at ACE Hardware.
Thank you for the helpful video. I have a new Ontario Rat 1 with a very stiff liner lock which can often make it difficult to close knife. Is there sometjhing I can do about that ?
Thanks
you can't say "there we go" and have to use wrist action to get it working
great video!!!! seems like a video that everyone who doesn't have the experience with dealing with these issues should watch, really glad to see you make this.
first off use a good lube no matter what! Dave, I think knows how big of a fan of tuf-glide I am. lol :P, on frame locks and some liner locks, I will (before tuf-glide) push down on the lock-bar to create more friction, therefore allowing the detent ball to wear in a bit of a groove into the hole that the ball rests in, also on the same note it will allow the detent ball and the blade tang face to smooth out some, I then will apply the tuf-glide and work the blade more, a few mins at most and then allow it to dry out overnight.
I then will use a air compressor to blow out the pivot area to get out any debris and then re-apply tuf-glide.
I find that this will improve the performance of the opening a great deal, and takes the breaking in time down to a minimum. anything else would be done internally once the knife is apart which, to me, generally is a last resort unless I am doing modifications or giving a knife a full take down cleaning.
there are a few other tricks/tips I can think of, but hard to explain on a comment, may have to do a video showing them.
Where do you get the washer upgrades?
usaknifemakers.com or knifekits.com have replacement bronze washers
I use 3 in 1 dry lock lubricant spray. It's like 3 bucks a Wal-Mart for a mini can of it. no dust attraction and holds up for a year it seems
TOO BAD YOU RETIRED @DAVEMATIC1..HOPE YOU'RE DOING WELL ADIOS!
Great vid as usually my friend. Already knew most the stuff but this video will really help someone just starting to get into knives. Or someone just starting to care about the action on their knives, This would be a treasure trove.But I will admit even I picked up a bit of info. I had that same issue with my Tenacious and I thought I was a lone wolf with that? Anyways all around Great video. Liked and Shared!
Or just don't buy those big bulky and what you said expensive knives. I just bought a Kershaw and it Works perfect right out of box. Those look huge heavy and one came with a flashlight? Looks cheap.
kershaw looks cheap
Thanks for the video, interesting topic and well made.
Here's a few tips.
Buy the best tools that you can afford.
Sometimes the lock-bar is bearing on the tang too hard. Carefully bending the liner or frame can help centre the blade and reduce friction so the blade pops out faster and smoother, be careful of overextending the lock-bar though, try a little at a time.
Tuf-Glide is amazing.
Phosphor-bronze washers are very much better than nylon, replace nylon with the largest the diameter phosphor-bronze that will fit. USAKnifemaker dot com has a good range.
Definitely agree, de-stressing the lock bar has solved issues for me in the passed also.