1.6HDi full annual service (Peugeot Partner 2007)
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- Опубліковано 11 чер 2024
- How to to change oil, oil/air/fuel/diesel filters, remove air from fuel system and reset service counter indicator or service spanner.
The car is a 1.6HDi Peugeot Partner (2007; ~103,000 miles; M59; 9HXC engine; 90bhp). The car is the same as a Citroen Berlingo. This procedures should be fairly the same in 1.6TDCi (Ford) and various other diesels, e.g. Volvo, Suzuki, Mini, Mazda, etc.
Bolt dimensions and torque settings:
Original 1.6HDi sump bolt is 21mm socket (M10x1.25, 13mm length). Torque settings 25Nm. If it is leaking slightly, one can torque it a bit more, say up to 30Nm.
The original sump washer is a copper crusher washer with the following diameters:
Outside diameter 21mm, Inside diameter 10mm, thickness 2mm.
The oil filter is 27mm socket and the torque setting is 25Nm.
The tools and replacement parts I am using:
Original Febi Bilstein bolt + copper washer (amazon UK): amzn.to/3jvSTw6 or ebay: ebay.us/VLh1Zo
Just the oil sump copper washer Febi Bilstein ebay: ebay.us/dGBVna
27mm socket for the oil filter cover (amazon UK): amzn.to/42uGHTl or ebay: ebay.us/k5fR4C
Oil pan for collecting the old oil (amazon UK): amzn.to/2Hv2shr or ebay: ebay.us/vdgem8
Total Quartz Ineo ECS 5W-30 (5L) (amazon UK): amzn.to/2HDFmVL or ebay: ebay.us/a0msAJ
Oil filter: (amazon UK): amzn.to/3omtlVT or ebay: ebay.us/SMZqka
Delphi HDF939 diesel or fuel filter (amazon UK): amzn.to/2ORSsR1 or ebay: ebay.us/fYgIs8
The rubber o-rings for the fuel filter have Peugeot/Citroen part number: 190437 from ebay: ebay.us/zf3Aus
Air filter (Bosch 1457433160) (amazon UK): amzn.to/34yIZWp or ebay: ebay.us/g2OpPz
Rubber grommets (1422A3) if old ones have perished (amazon UK): amzn.to/3kBd4du or ebay: ebay.us/EfJfs1
To seal the crankcase breather I am using these nitrile rubber o-rings (19mmx27mmx4mm) (amazon UK): amzn.to/31KH3br or ebay: ebay.us/nnHLwX
If you want a water in diesel sensor the Peugeot/Citron part number is: 191311 from ebay: ebay.us/6bQf6w
Sealey 3/8" 2-24Nm torque wrench (amazon UK): amzn.to/3LJx2Ti or ebay: ebay.us/BgMfWN
Silverline 1/2" 28-210Nm torque wrench (amazon UK): amzn.to/3rO53q6 or ebay: ebay.us/FUqWsI
Sealey AK54 550ml oil suction syringe (amazon UK): amzn.to/31E8F1R or ebay: ebay.us/mXZSlw
The tubing is 7mm outside diameter and fits in the syringe. 8mm OD should also work.
Trim tools (amazon UK): amzn.to/48QCahd or ebay: ebay.us/WNuyRn
A few 1.6HDi engine videos that might be interesting and related to the annual service.
A video how to make the airbox not rattle that much: • How to fix rattling ai...
A video of how to replace the rubber o-ring on the crankcase breather: • How to fix oil drippin...
A video how to fit water in diesel sensor: • How to fit a water in ...
A video showing how much oil is there left in the oil sump once you drain the oil: • How much oil is left i...
A video of how to properly clean the EGR valve: • The complete guide to ...
If you find this video useful, buy me a coffee: www.paypal.com/paypalme/morem...
All my car-related purchases: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/moremol...
00:00 - 00:35 Introduction
00:36 - 02:10 Draining oil
02:10 - 04:58 Remove oil filter
04:58 - 08:27 Suck remaining oil
08:27 - 13:16 New oil filter
13:16 - 14:39 Oil sump bolt
14:39 - 17:02 Fill with oil
17:02 - 23:38 New air filter
23:38 - 31:48 Fuel/Diesel filter
31:48 - 32:41 Fit back Air box
32:41 - 35:52 Fit back everything
35:52 - 38:14 Bleed fuel system
38:14 - 40:28 Reset service counter
40:28 - 40:59 Final words
#HDi #AnnualService #PeugeotService
Disclaimer:
Use the information provided in this video at Your Own Risk. More molecules provides this video for informational purposes only and assumes no liability for any damage or loss incurred as a result of the use of the information or tools presented in this video. The information provided here may contain inaccuracies and more molecules cannot guarantee the correctness or reliability of the content.
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37:30 bless you man! you saved my life...nobody in the forums or other videos could explain or show how to pump fuel after fuel filter is replaced. my Partner wasn't starting and after I saw your video, I went my van, pump it and started almost normally...after 10 seconds of cranking. thank you again!
This video is better than also every other turorial on youtube. Incredible!!
Just changed the air filter on my 3008 thanks to this video. Having seen how easy it looks to replace the fuel filter and prime, I will be doing this soon too. Thanks for a very helpful video :-)
Just purchased a 2009 Berlingo 1.6 HDi I found this video extremely helpful.Thanks !!
Great videos 👌
I just bought a 2007 Berlingo which runs alright but it's obvious that it was "serviced" by someone who lacks understanding and commitment (to say it very politely).
Your videos help a lot to improve the condition of the van bit by bit.
Thanks 👍
A very informative video, which will save me money this week! Good work man! 👍😎
Love Your Videos 👍🏼
Saves Me A Fortune Doing It Myself...
Another fantastic video well explained and clear step by step 👍
Thank you, appreciate it!
Great video, very well explained, thanks 👍
Great job and thanks for the video, hope you'll o a video about replacing/tightening the injectors joints 🙏
Good idea, thanks. I might do that in next videos
@@moremolecules 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thankyou! Brill video and saved me so much time faffing with the fuel filter
Nice video people can understand easily. very good quality video , very good Patience speaking. Thanks 😊
Great video mate. i recently bought 2 years ago my partner 2007 1.6hdi and i really love it. i did all the services as you did mate. This week i managed to remove my egr , and egr cooler and the pipe to the intake manifold, after 175.200km. it was really really carbonized. as i was replacing my injectors seals, i also removed my intake manifold. it was 80% of it carbonized with oily. it took me a day to remove all the hell from it and meanwhile i cleaning the port for intake valves which they were a complete mess!! 60% carbonized. i manage to do this by breaking the carbon with a flat screwdriver and vacuum cleaner. after 3 days of cleaning and high serviced, i went to start up and 'boom!' noise. I found that the starter had gone!! bought one today from local peugeot shop for 160euros, and trust me, it is a pain in the ass to remove this starter and put it back. But now i fixed it back and it is amazing how a different run the engine have after removing all that carbon!! my advice is, dont waste money on sprays like egr cleaners and intake valve spray ecc. it wont work for sure if your engine is 175.200km like mine. :) thanks mate for your great videos!!!
Many thanks indeed for the comment, really appreciated. I always had it on my to do list to remove the carbon, just not enough time to do it. Yeah, the alternator is a nightmare, I did it here: ua-cam.com/video/L5dQ9kILecM/v-deo.html
Top Man..,sehr fein erklärt und geduldig..! Respekt !
Great and very helpful video. Greetings from Turkey. Thanks.
That was a really good helpful video. Thanks very much.
THANK YOU TEACHER:)))) WORKED OUT SUPERBLY!!!!
Fantastic clarity thanks
Fantastic video. Thank you 👏🤝
Beautiful how you explain your work
Haha, thank you for the compliment!
I love your videos because I have the exact model
very good video and thank you so much
Your videos are great 👍🏼
Thank you!
Very good job, you are doing the work perflectly well. One thing I do additionally each service is to check the tightening of the injectors. My car (308 sw 1.6 hdi 110hp) is now 220 000 km and this prevent injector copper gasker leakage so far.
I like your accent, no need to use the subtitles!
Greatings from France!
Hi Guillaume, many thanks indeed for the encouragement. Yes, I checked them once and they had not moved from factory build. I would have included it, but these bolts are angular tightening bolts and they stretch in order to get their torque settings. It is rather difficult to know what kind of torque settings to use to tighten them again. Some low settings of for example 10-15Nm should do the job, although I have read somewhere 25Nm, but that is way too much. In all cases these are prone to snapping.
But all in all I agree that these have to be checked, it is one of the primary cause of turbo failure in thee engines.
@@moremolecules Hello,
Thank you for your reply.
I do not apply a specific torque when cheking for these bolts, but just do it manually using a short length lever wrench and tightening them very gently. Each service from 20 000 km to 120 ... 140 000 km it was necesary to tigthen some bolts just a little, but beyond that mileage no need to do it any more.
@@guillaumevandenbossche1427 That sounds perfect. I generally go no more than 6-7Nm and max 10Nm, but you can do it manually as well. I generally do not trust my hand to not overtighten them, hahaha.
veery informative and complete, well done
You are a legend 🙌 Thank you
Great job as usual 👌👌👌👌
Great video mate thanks. 👍
Bravo majstore👍
Thank you 😊 I got told to put diesel in before putting it in, but there are different videos but your car matches mine best 😊 so I'll do ut your way 😊
You could put diesel in he filter before putting it in. Either way you have to purge the system, so with the rubber bulb does the same things as putting diesel inside, no difference. The problem is that these filters cannot be opened very easy, so that is why I do not put diesel inside. The small valve on top can be used for diesel, but they generally twist a bit and do not seal very well afterwards.
@@moremolecules this is my first time changing all filters and I'm not the most steady person, so best to not open anything I dont have to 😆
@@msnorway79 Yeah, works alright for me to just pump the rubber pump until very hard and you can hear liquid going through it. I have done this, without pouring any diesel in the filter, numerous times and never had a problem.
Thank you sir! Verry good info💯👌
Great video for all car owners have got a 1.6 HDI engine. I have the same car, Peugeot Partner with 1.6 HDI 90KM 9HXC engine, bought as a second owner a few years ago. I'm absolutely surprised that my car and its engine are still alive, considering the terrible service done by the first owner, and many so-called professional mechanics; for example, they tore off the base of the air filter and damaged many electrical and mechanical connections. That experience annoyed me a lot as they charged me for damaging my car, so now I do most of the servicing myself. The engine survived these "professional repairs" probably only because I regularly change the oil every 10,000 km, the air filter, and the fuel filter every 20,000 km. The car currently has a mileage of 195,000 km. I have two questions about the type of engine oil. I use (like the previous owner) Mobil Super 2000 type 10 W 40, mainly in Austria, where the climate is colder than in the GB. I drive my car quite rarely on highways, but lot in the city and the countryside for short distances. That's why the oil is always so dark black and dirty after every oil change. What to do to make it more clean? Will it help, and is it worth using so-called engine flush before changing the engine oil, and then replacing used oil with a new one? I don't plan to buy a new car knowing that almost all of them are very difficult & expensive to do any service, so an average user can only fix the wheels (by replacing them). Even a simple light bulb is difficult to change in new cars due to the lack of access and special tools needed, and most engine repairs require a computer with expensive diagnostic software. Ha ha! Lol! Thanks, in advance, for answering my questions about how to make engine oil more clean after replacement.
Not too sure if I replied, I thought I did. Any oil that is equal to the spec recommended by Peugeot/Citroen is alright. I would not worry too much about the oil being black. It is a sooty engine and the oil just turns black within a few miles/km. You could potentially flush or change the oil twice, but I doubt it is worth it. Change it every 6 months or say 10k km. That is more than enough. I also change the fuel/diesel filter every year or say 10k km or thereabouts. I think in the booklet for my car it says every 40,000 miles, but that will lead to all sorts of problems. Probably the easiest way is to suck all the oil that is at the bottom of the sump with a syringe and tubing. If you get ~200ml of oil that is the best you can do. Some people change the oil, drive for 100km and then change it again. That would certainly clean it better, but it is too much of expense to do. Hope that makes sense.
You explain the whole process excellently.👍 Every few kilometers should the diesel filter be replaced?
I think Peugeot recommends to service it every 60,000 km, but in my humble opinion that is way too long. I do it every 20,000km
Merci beaucoup, thank you very much!
Thank you so much. You helped get the job done so someone could get to a funeral in time. Amazing.
Glad it has helped and send my condolences to the person that needed to go to the funeral.
@@moremolecules what size is the drain plug
@@moist.teabag It is in the description of the video with the proper dimensions
Excellent video :)
this video is educational now i can do a minor service to my car
Maybe a full service ;-)
Merci beaucoup
Changed fuel filter in my 308 this was the best out there, thank you.
Very well explained and highlighted key points showing the small things like clip and plug removal. up close, great camera work. I did have problems starting even after manual priming for 1/2 hr. Ended up pulling out again all plugs ok and ended up filling filter with diesel, Worked then. Note that the priming pump does get harder to pump but doesn’t get really hard.
Many thanks indeed for the good words. Sometimes the valve on the hand priming pump gets buggered. It is supposed to be a one-way valve, so pumping should get all the air out. It might be that yours is now a two-way valve. Maybe I should have said something in the video. Glad you sorted it out though 🙂
Probably the best ...thanks
I really like your comment! Leaving the door slightly open, for a potentially another better video. Of course it could be filmed better, but there is some trade off between how much time/effort one can spend on doing such a video. Thank you actually 👍
After understanding the start point of the requirement to maintain the 14.7/1 air/fuel burn throughout all engine loads I decided to attempt to review the air filter. Dissemble of the parts was not straight forward as unofficial mods had been implemented. It was impossible to remove the air box without moving the priming bulb. Anyway the job was done. The filter was badly choked and so the engine would never give good performance. So to improve the breathing I hoovered the filter and removed about 80% of the dust and grime. Running much better. More power and tick over much smoother. The whole design of the front section of the air input is very poor and I expect in later models has been improved. Thank you M and M.
For diesels the air to fuel ratio is slightly different, not by much, but 14.5:1. Dirty air filter is always going to be bad for fuel consumption and engine running. They are fairly cheap, better to replace it than cleaning it. There will be fine dust particles that you would not be able to hoover up. Nevertheless, better to clean/hoover than doing nothing 🙂
👍👍👍👍👍👍great video
hello i love your videos they are very helpful many thanks could you please make a video about oil dipstick TUBE i pulled it up and couldn't put it back coz i cant find the hole thank you so much
Not too sure what you mean. If it is the whole dipstick tube, that might need to open the sump and position it there. I have a video for the sump replacement as part of the turbo series, check it out.
Awesome video as usual. Would love to see how you can get to things in something like a Peugeot 5008 though, we're access is hard and you can't really get to the back of the engine. Taking the air filter box out seems impossible :/
Haha, yeah, I do not say it is very easy on all models. On mine it is fairly straight forward, but on others you would need to remove scuttle things and all. I do not have other 1.6HDis at hand, as this is my personal car, so I can only show it on mine.
On my 2008 grand c4 Picasso doing the air filter is a real pain in the back as it’s so far underneath the dash. Also hate doing fuel filter job, repressuring the system sucks!!
Hahah, yes, the C4 Picasso is a pain. A lot of other parts to remove in order to get to the air filter.
Such a helpful video. So broke at the moment cant afford to pay garage so going to do.myself (and replace dpf filter). Are the amazon links youve provided for a 2013 peageot partner 1.6 aswell?
I feel for you and hope everything works alright. The links are for my 1.6HDi 2007, but they should work for 2013 1.6HDi. I cannot guarantee that of course. Hope it goes well for you. Let me know if something does not quite work.
@@moremolecules thanks bud to be fair it could have gone worse so far none of the problems have been my fault. The rod sensor element plug thing that runs through fuel filter housing was snapped by last mechanic and blutac placed to seal drain hole on filter. Also the cabin filter had just been crammed in to the point it clearly isn't doing anything and its now impossible to get out. Got all the parts I needed from euro car parts which was brilliant just gave them my reg and they gave me all the right bits and oil. Going to fit the dpf filter tomorrow but annoyingly the fan going in limp mode killed the battery so difficult getting it back up on ramps. So far all the parts and a new 108 piece socket set has cost less than quote from garage at least! One question, is it bad to have a tiny bit too much oil on dip stick? I emptied sump and changed filter but haven't run the engine yet so it's just been sat there for 24 hours and oil filter will be empty but looked at dip stick today and oil is definitely above max?
@@ollyjackson8733 A little bit is not that much of a problem, like a 1mm should not be too bad. The problem with a little bit of oil is that is gets frothy and everything gets clogged. If it is a tiny bit, it will be burnt off eventually. If I were you I would get a small syringe and a silicone tube from B&Q and syphone a little bit just to be on the safe side of things.
We’re duz the pollen/cabin filter go on in a 1.6 hdi 0 7 plate
Hi buddy. Thanks so much for your videos. I've just bought a Berlingo with 160000 miles. I've done a full service from your videos and cleaned up the engine. There was a lot of oil / coke around the engine bay, right down onto the alternator. I bought this as a cheap day to day run around on a tight budget, like most of us. It ran fine for a week but now I'm getting a loss of power, jerking, then the SToP sign on the dash. Turbo looks ok. Injectors are dirty but seem tight, they sound ok with stethoscope. When the STOP light comes on, the engine dies, but will start again after a minute and run fine for a while. Any suggestions where I can look next? Many thanks in advance. PS. Are you Polish? I spent a year in your country many years ago, before the EU and had a great time. I hope you're treated as well in the UK as I was in your country. Best wishes, John
Hi John, thank you very much for the kind words, much appreciated.
When you say oil/coke, do you mean there is a sludgy carbon build up around the injectors? This is generally a sign of a failed copper o-ring in the injector seat. I would clean it and monitor if new stuff build again. It is a fairly easy job to take out the injectors and put a new seal at the bottom, you would need a reamer tool as well. Cutting out is a bit difficult to diagnose remotely, but start with the easy stuff, say an injector cleaner, I do not believe in the stuff, but it's probably worth a try. Check if the battery is OK, a lot of stuff could stem from this. Also, you could try to disconnect the MAF sensor and see if that improves anything. If it is better without the MAF, then a new MAF is needed, or potentially a clean, maybe. If you have not replaced the fuel filter, I would definitely do that. Cutting out is generally fuel related, so really clogged fuel filter might be a reason, say it was low on fuel and picked up stuff from the fuel tank. It may be worth cleaning the EGR valve as well. All in all, if you have access to Diagbox/PP2000/Lexia is worth hooking it up to and read any errors. They are a bit expensive and a generic OBDII reader might also work, before starting to replace things.
Just to add experience to this I had an old non-turbo escort diesel van that cut out continuously but would start again after a period of rest. Three trips to the garage and about £300 labour they found a crack in the fuel line right at the Tank. The repair fixed that one.
Good video, but full service should include cabin filter replacement? Cant find any vids on my specific model with left hand drive...
The cabin pollen filter is only present in vehicles with air conditioning. Mine does not have one, so cannot show how it is replaced. In general for the Peugeot Partner it is by the passenger feet, by the cabin fan. You can pull it out and replace it.
I am also planning to buy partner 2013. But it’s clause and gear is not that good. What do you guys recommend?shall I buy or not?
Hi More Molecules, when you open the motor bonnet at the left side there is a intake manifold or throttle system harness and military / dark green hoses (harmonica pleat type) and I think air or fuel sensor on it. At the bottom side of this component there also is a pivot bolt an it's slot is embedded to the motor block. That small slot piece is broken from the motor block. Please advise if fixing it by usuing some adhesive like sunfix is remedy or better to do welding. I need your advice-Thanks
Hi Suat, I think you mean the EGR throttle body that is next to the intercooler. Yes, it is fixed to the engine body and the underside is aluminium. I am not too sure what I can advise as I cannot see exactly what is broken. You could try with the sunfix and see what happens. Not too sure if sunfix can bond to aluminium.
Molecules if I understood correctly you took 2000ml out of 4075ml. Why you only took that, and didn't took a larger percentage of the old oil? Like 4000ml?
(I'm a novice)
I know that some people use a new bottle for pushing the old oil, and then they fill up with another bottle. But I was think is the oil stuck somewhere? Like turbo or something and for that reason he can't drain something closer to 4075ml?
Cheers
New 1.6 hdi is much easy to replace air and fuel filter
Yes, the manufacturers very slowly improve accessibility
My partner has just reached 100,000 miles...time for some TLC. Great description on how yo go about it all thankyou. One thing I'm concerned about, I'm told the oil supply line yo the turbo has a filter that can slowly become blocked with obvious disastrous effect. Have you done this before and is it of concern? Also the injector retaining bolts can loosen. Definitely worth re-torqueing to stop the 'black death'!
Yes, the turbo has a filter, but it does not become slowly blocked. It can of course become blocked. Regular and more frequent changing oil/filters help keep it clean. If you want you can replace the old-style banjo bolt filter with the new design. I did it here and showing the old vs. new style: ua-cam.com/video/QHY_uPbPfyg/v-deo.html
When I opened the turbo banjo bolt with the filter, my 1.6HDi was ~95k miles and the filter was spotless.
Yes, pretty spot on for the injector bolts, I have described it in here: ua-cam.com/video/kt6zJANLaYQ/v-deo.html
Hi great videos very helpful.what grade and spec gearbox oil would you recommend for 1.6hdi diesel thankyou 🙏
For the gearbox I used Total Transmission Gear 8 75W80. Not too sure what the spec is, but can be found on the web. From my video here: ua-cam.com/video/95QarTgx4mI/v-deo.html
I aways put 5w40 for Hdi 1.6 at the moment i hit 185k miles with no any problem . Good engine need good take care.
Yes, 5w40 is also alright. A bit thicker oil, less smoke from the exhaust.
GREAT video/s...JUST moved on from the Xsara to a C4, so going to be doing this ASAP.
I also have to top-up the actuator fluid...but cant find info on the type of fluid to use. Guess is std 75w80 ????
Thank you! What do you mean by actuator fluid? By the 75w80, I suspect it is gearbox? For mine it is Total Transmission Gear 8 75W80 (ua-cam.com/video/95QarTgx4mI/v-deo.html). Hope this helps.
@@moremolecules Well, there is oil in the gear box and there is also a small white plastic fluid tank used by the semi-auto box to change gears. It is located just under the actuator/s control module. It has a filler screw-on cap on top and a Min and Max mark on one side. My 'other' classic car takes ultra thin Dextrol III fluid in it's autobox, so I thought I best ask before topping the C4 up.
I think it is the EGS Actuator oil tank?
@@chessf Ahh, it is automatic gearbox I suspect? I am not too sure. I have a Peugeot 307 with automatic gearbox (AL4 I think), but it does not have this small tank. It has a special procedure to drain/refil, a bit more complicated.
Molecules why you changed your oil sump?
Cheers
Crawling under a car with a socket saves the price of a bottle of Scotch but if that's no longer an option, it can be drained with one of those cheap pumps - about £15. The first time I used it it only shifted about 1/2 - 1.5 l - but a comment by a reviewer of the pump recommended putting the car on a slight down-slope. I just did this today - the car would have edged fwd with the h/brake off - and the pump shifted pretty much the lot. I should have measured the old oil to check - next time. I hope it works on the g/box filler hole, too. I'll let you know.
Yes, that is a very good option if one cannot be underneath. Good advice on the position of the engine for the drainage. Many thanks
Great video man do you recomend this 5w30 oil for my peugeot 308 1.6hdi even if I have 280.000 km driven?😁
Check with the Peugeot booklet what they recommend, as yours might be newer 1.6HDi, although the Total INEO ECS 5W30 is low SAP, in other words less ash and works better for engines with DPF. Even if you do not have DPF is OK. I have had this oil for the past 5-6 years and have not had problems.
@@moremolecules Thank you!
Can you do another video on EGR faults please. I have a P0489 fault low circuit A but canot find the problem. New EGR ne Temp sensors cleaned dpf ect ect
Hi Andy, that is a bit of generic error. If you have Diagbox/PP2000/Lexia you can do a quick test on the EGR valve and see if it works. If you have one of these, you can also record EGR % as you drive, say hooked up to a laptop. Plot this vs rpm, MAF, etc. This will fairly quickly tell you what is wrong
So clear. Brilliant. A favour please. Could you do a short video on the 1.6 HDI Berlingo 2007 to identify location and names of all the sensors in the inlet manifold plus the sensor under the Flexi pipe that feeds from the EGR intercooler output to the inlet manifold. Finally where is the vacuum release valve located that controls the vacuum pressure to the turbo Waste gate actuator.. Reason. Trying to track down over boost tripping problem.
Thank you 🙂 I'll see what I can do. The vacuum pressure valve is at the back of the engine on the left (looking from the front). If you search "1.6HDi turbo solenoid", e.g. c4owners.org/plugins/forum/attachment/1/1423739863_1_FT204284_c4_1.6hdi_solenoid.jpg
and here www.peugeotforums.com/threads/turbo-solenoid-valve.30056/
It is a orange-ish looking solenoid with a few pipes coming in/out
Thanks. I will follow the pipe back from the actuator.
From More Molecules lead found this video. ua-cam.com/video/bHY7wu45AuU/v-deo.html
After further research wrt 1.6 hdi Berlingo I have identified the following sensors on the intake of the Engine. 1. MAF. (Mass Air Flow)LOCATION straight after AIR FILTER HOUSING mounted as an integral part of the elliptical housing above the fuel filter on the Near side. 2. MAT(Mass Air Temperature) LOCATION @10 o'clock straight after the Throttle vane on the intake tube. On the Off side top of engine. 3. MAP(Manifold Air Pressure) LOCATION @ 2 O'clock immediately after Temperature sensor. This is the next thing to check for soot and oil build up. It's been in the car for 150k miles. Finally I mention the cam position indicator sensor. This is located directly under the EGR intercooler flexipipe where it enters the inlet. Someone change this sensor in a video and it extiguished the Engine warning light. I can't see how this is related to overboost issue. If this doesn't stop the overboost error then next it will investigation of vacuum relief valve and circuit lines followed by wastgate operation. Finally the Haynes manual indicates that the Turbo is designed to produce a pressure of 1 bar(15lbs/[] inch) at 3000 rpm if that's any help. Will update if I find anything further worth adding.
@@CASHSEC Good detective work! Is it a 92bhp or 110bhp? If it is the 92bhp, I would check the turbo solenoid for overboost, rather than the other sensors. If it is the 110bhp, you can check the turbo vane nozzles if they are stuck. The turbo pressure is 1bar above the current atmospheric pressure. The boost readout will be the atmosphere + the boost from the turbo.
bravo
I've saw a video of yours where you talk about the gunk around the injector seals, now I can't find what video it is :S
My 3rd injector seal is all gunky but the others are fine
ua-cam.com/video/kt6zJANLaYQ/v-deo.html
If I were you I would change the injector seals as soon as possible.
Have you tested the Mann Hummel provent 200 against the cheap version? I’m considering to buy the catch can, but I’m curious to know if the original is more efficient than cheap version. Also how much less smoke did you have after putting the cheap version provent versus no catch can at all?
Great content by the way! 👍👍
Hi zengine, I changed the oil catch can to the original one and ran it for say 1,000 miles. I have not yet done proper testing, but the original does not seem more efficient. This is only a short-term observation and not a long-term one.
THere was a considerable amount of smoke reduction with the cheap oil catch can. I think I have a few updates on this. Maybe the last one is showing it, I think they go from update #1 to update #4
Thanks for the fast reply 👍 Yes in update 4 you see a smoke reduction with 2 catch cans, but how much has the provent catch can by itself reduced smoke compared to no catch can at all?
I am half way through the work. Engine oil and filter done. I am stuck with removing the airbox. It seems my car has a moulded fibre cowling just in front of the bulkhead, behind the bonnet. It comes over the top of the airbox. I have moved my brake reservoir like you, but it seems this whole portion needs to come off to allow the airbox out. Did you remove yours.... it seems you have far more room......!
Yes, probably you need to remove the screen wiper cowling to remove the airbox. But in general you should not need to do that, you can just unscre the bolts on top of the air box without removing it altogether.
That brown plate you got there on the turbo heat sheild i am taking about mate. be great to know where i can get one for mine as it's broken and rattling
Ahh, yes that one. It's home made, i.e. DIY, haha. I got a 3 or 4mm steel flat bar and shaped it into place using pliers, taking care not to poke into the plastic above. It will be easier with a vice, but I do not have one. Drilled two holes to fit in the bolts. It has been solid for ~3 years now. My heat shields where rattling badly and after buying a new one and replacing it, it broke again and it is pretty dear to buy.
@@moremolecules Now that is very true they are dear to buy and i was thinking the very same that it will break again and i be wasteing money. i will have to do what you have done. any idea where would be the best place to get this steel from please thank you
@@anglingpassion5039 If you are in the UK, I bought it from B&Q, I think it was a 3mm, the 4mm will be harder to bend. Something like this: www.diy.com/departments/galvanised-cold-pressed-steel-flat-bar-l-1000mm-w-40mm-t-1-5mm/3232637736107_BQ.prd
Unfortunately, tcould not find the 3mm this one is 40mm width, which is a bit much.
@@moremolecules Thank you so much I will take a trip down b&q great guy you are a legend. I subbed to you channel I love the videos you bring to this engine as I have the same one in my citroen Xsara Picasso 2007
Are there 2 types of fuel filter for this car? My replacement one is slightly different. Instead of the piece that gets swapped to the new one sliding in from the end, it is held in place from the "front" and needs to be angled in. Does this sound right? Peugeot didn't seem to know the answer
Not too sure, but as far as I know it is only one diesel filter for the 1.6HDi. The one where it is one single unit, i.e. HDF939
Just bought a dispatch 1.6 hdi 63 plate with 81k on clock. When a bought the van it all seemed well. But after having it a few weeks I’ve noticed black smoke under acceleration. Is this anything to worry about ? I was told by the seller the dpf has been removed and a remap.
I serviced it today following your video made it easy I also used all the products you advertised falling your links can’t thank you enough
Thanks for the video m8 save some cash 👍
Bro what do you do with the bucket that receives the oil? Do you clean it or throw it away after oil change?
Cheers
I clean it with paper towels and then dishwashing liquid. Reuse it again next time.
@@moremolecules thanks 🙏
Hello. I have a 1 6 hdi. and it's a water pipe that's not whole, think the air filter box has rubbed a hole in it. Is it difficult to change. how long does it take to do it.
What do you mean water pipe has rubbed a hole in it? Do you mean the air box has rubbed a hole in the EGR?
Hi can you do a video on how to replace cabin filter I have a Peugeot partner escapade reg is YR57ORG
If the car does not have A/C then you would not have pollen filter.
Thank you for your reply I wish I had looked at your reply after spending a hour looking for it
@@wayneanthonyarmstrong4079 A lot of people have done that, including me😁
My car does not have the hand fuel pump. How should I prime/bleed the fuel in my case?
Yes, some do not have one. I cannot quite remember for these, they are either self-adjusting or you need a hand-held pump with a one-way valve. Amazon/ebay self a lot of these one-way valve pumps, it is similar to mine in the video. Remove the pipe that goes back to the fuel tank and pump until hard. Literally does the same thing as on mine.
Where did you get the tubing from for the syringe
It was some tubing from another kit. I think I had a kit for oil testing and it came from that. It is fairly hard hose/tube.
2:22 what that pipe you removed and it connects to what, been looking trying to get its name
It is an air intake pipe with PSA number: 143451
It connects to another air intake pipe that goes to the air filter box. Unfortunately, they do not have specific names, just air intake pipes.
can you make a video on the cabin filter if you dont have A/C? cant find it on my 2007partner MVP 5G 1,6hdi whit no klima or A/C
No A/C no cabin filter. That's it. If you do not have AC, then there is no cabin filter to be found, sorry. Cabin filters are only installed on the engines with AC. That is why you cannot find it, it simply is not there.
@@moremolecules thank you.
Regarding the oil type ... last service i took my peugeot 407 1.6 hdi 2006, they put in 5w40 Total oil ,but you put 5w30 ... could it cause any trouble ?
No it will be absolutely alright. The total 5w30 is a fuel saving oil and a bit thinner, the 5w40 is a bit thicker. Both are fine, 5w40 might be even better as it will be more difficult to pass seals, for example turbo seals.
@@moremolecules Thanks for the answer. Love the work you are doing with these videos, have been going trough many of them... am planing on doing my own annual service this summer... Keep it up 👍🏻
So, I've ordered that oil syringe but it came with only 300mm tube, which is definitely not long enough. Can someone confirm the od. The tube in the video seem to be less than 12mm od.
Hi there. Apologies, maybe I should have said that the syringe came with a very short tube. I bought a separate, longer tube so I can fit it to the bottom of the sump. Probably I made a mistake in the description of the video. I will correct that. The tubing is 7mm OD, 8mm will also probably do. I just went to measure it. Apologies about that
@@moremolecules No worries! I bought what looks like 8mm od (can't measure it the caliper ran out of battery) and I can barely get it in. Still managed to get about 500ml oil out. The garage I went for service overfilled. It seems to be near the max now. Btw great videos!
@@shmatic9665 Ahh, yes overfilling could be pretty bad. I think it was 7mm OD, as I measured it, but it is a bit cold outside and that tube has been used for quite a bit, so it might have shrank a bit, but probably 7 OD.
Hi I find a bit of diesel on top of my diesel filter every time , do you think it’s cracked or does feed pipe have seals in them ? It’s new
Ah, that is a bit wierd. Never seen it before. Is it always or when you replace it. Are you certain it is diesel? Also, there is a valve on top of the filter and it could be leaking a bit, but this would mean that you would get ait in the filter and potentially hard starting. I would check if the valve on top is secured quite good. Of course, the 2 pipes could be leaking a bit as well, but then again air in the system and hard starting. Do you get any symptoms or not at all?
@@moremolecules hi thanks for the reply , it starts fine , I will check that valve tomorrow thanks . Appreciate it
@@kenrossaukrsa I doubt that the valve is the problem, but also check if there is any fuel around the two fuel lines.
How is the turbo going ?
Hi emmanuel, the turbo is going great, no problems whatsoever. I installed in ~7 months ago, but due to the pandemic I have traveled only ~4,000 miles, but I have not had a single problem with it.
Hi there, you wouldn’t happen to know why my pergout partner is pooling oil on top of the engine would you? Iv done some research and people are saying it could be the inlet manifold o rings have you had similar issues at all? Thank you
Maybe check if the the rocker cover is not leaking. This is the most likely place to leak from. WIpe it and see where it is coming from, the best option.
Check the white outlet breather on the Rocker Cover. O rings shrink. More Molecules has covered this.
@@CASHSEC Ahh, yes thank you
Check this video perhaps: ua-cam.com/video/ziKR6M6ToSg/v-deo.html
The outlet breather o-ring shrinks as PORTLAND DOEBOY has said and it is a simple replace of the o-ring
I'm thinking of buying a 2007 Peugeot partner 200,000 kilometres on the clock, regularly serviced and 9months MOT left guy wants €2850 is this alot for this van?
Depends on the condition of course. Maybe it is alright if the condition is OK. Mine is ~170,000km and ie going strong, but I have kept on top of most things. As long as oil/oil filters have been changed regularly, should be alright. I would ask if the EGR was ever replaced or cleaned. At that milleage you would expect the EGR to go. A brand new original is quite expensive.
@@moremolecules he seems to have maintained it well enough so I'm wondering why he's selling it now, 🤔if EGR valve is an expensive job that would make sense. Thanks for the advice and video post it's really helpful 🙂
@@declanmurphy729 All sorts of reasons why people sell the cars they have 🙂 EGR valves are not that expensive if you do the work yoursel, but in a garage probably a bit expensive relative to the price of the car of course. Depending on the condition and driving (always fully laden, etc.) some of the suspension components may also need replacement. You could ask him what has been done in terms of components during the time he has haf it.
Forgot about timing belt, water pump, etc. That would be a fair bit of money.
Hi,
Do you know where is the oil level sensor located? (Not the oil pressure sensor) As I didn't find anything on the Internet. When I read some live data out of my c3, the oil temperature is constantly -40 celsius.. Any idea if not the oil level sensor?
Should be at the back right side of engine, pretty long oil sensor. I cannot find a photo to show you, but should be there. I think it might be grene plastic as well.
@@moremolecules Thank you. So it should be right next to the AC compressor?
@@doogk9266 No, my mistake of saying at the bottom right side of the engine. It is at the bottom right side of the engine when you look at it from the front. Somewhere below the Fuel filter/EGR valve, not next to the AC compressor.
@@moremolecules Appreciate it. Love your videos, you helped me a lot. I know you just said that where exactly it is but maybe would be useful for others too to put up a video about the oil level sensor location? Cause there is none on youtube..
@@doogk9266 Might do one at my next service, as a few parts need to be taken off. Appreciate the idea 🙂
what is that orange flap on your turbo cover?
that thing rattles at mine?
@@SchildersbedrijfMJF Yes, they do break very often. Here is my way of fixing this: ua-cam.com/video/ox6EIiIpWOo/v-deo.html
how much did cost the maintenance ?
All in all, 76 GBP
@@moremolecules isn't it expensive ? i am living in turkey and here including pollen filter and maintenance service 1.6 hdi engine full maintenance only 45 GBP .
@@kadirhanatmaca That is a different topic of discussion. In a garage here (UK) for all these they charge me £300. It really depends on the quality of the replacement parts and of course labour. In some countries replacement parts and labour are cheaper. These are prices here in the UK, if you buy the same in Tukey they will be cheaper. I cannot quite know what the price there will be.
@@kadirhanatmaca Would it still be £45 if you used Bosch parts and the same oil? The oil is around £30 here for 5l.
hi mate, 4 liters enough for it?
Yes 4L should be enough. The 1.6HDi takes ~3.75L
@@moremolecules thank you
Dimensions of the original O-ring? 30x3.1mm?
See if the description of the video does not give the dimensions. I have put a few of these there, but maybe it is not whatyou are asking.
@@moremolecules 19x27x4mm. I have spare o-rings of 24x30x3mm but they don't seem to seal properly although the original O-ring is almost the.same size. Any trick to stop the strong vibration on this particular connection (rocket cover and air intake hose)? Rubber grommets of air filter box? Do they sell them separately?
@@csraln6748 Yes, they do sell the grommets separately, although always cheaper to buy them as multiples.
Do you still own this car?
Yes, I still have it
I broken the dip stick in side
Hmm, difficult to get out if you cannot get something to pull it out. Eventually you may need to drop the sump in order to get the dipstick out
If the oil filter didn’t fit in the hole where the nozzle is on the end of the filter would the car still run.
It should fit pretty good, otherwise the filter cap might not be sealing well and not generating enough pressure. The car would run, but it might complain about the pressure. Also, it is unclear how well the filtering will be.
@@moremolecules I did it again putting the cartridge In the hole but when I undid it it all looked ok thanks mate
You waited 1h to let all the oil drip? 4:56
That's a lot of time 😮
Yeah, I wait longer normally, like 5-6h. I have the time, but appreciate that other people do not have the time.
@@moremolecules thanks for the feedback. Yeah I thought it was a quick operation, I'm taking notes because I'll change oil myself for the first time. But I have no garage. I have to do it on a low profile place and I might not have all the time in the world! Cheers
@@nelsonthekinger Basically because I have a garage and I can wait long to get the last few drops I wait. Do the oil sump first and then do the rest. That would give you time for the oil to drop.
@@moremolecules thanks Molecules💪
i think i want to be a mechanic
Hahaha, I would not want to become a mechanic. I can definitely work on my car, but too much responsibility working on other people's cars.
@@moremolecules i bought a 1.6 hdi peugeot 308 and i plan servicing by myself i learn much from your videos thnx alot man
It is really satisfying to have done it yourself. You know everything is done correctly and you could use the best consumables as you are saving from the price of the work by a garage.
It’s a1.6 hdi
Ah, yes it is.
Filthy engines. No matter how much you clean them, you cannot go near that engine without gloves.
Haha, yes, gloves are indispensable.