The only time I used a chunky yarn woven piece was when I was given a weaving that looked like it was a sampler from a class. It had roving, it had chunky yarn, it had smooth yarns. It was 18Wx36L. So I made a tote bag out of it. No cutting. I think one end had the warp as fringe, which I hid by folding it in between the weaving and the lining. I've gotten so many compliments on that bag. 💖🌞🌵😷
Definitely a good topic. So many channels only discuss the weaving but side step the finishing details that make our handwovens truly useful. Thanks Chris.
My tip is to keep your pattern simple and let the weaving shine. Fun fact: kimonos 👘 are made from strips of fabric. The sides of the strips are the salvages. I bet the strips are a standard length, so the ends are woven too. No cuts at all. 💖🌞🌵😷
Almost there! Standard Daily Wear Kimonos are constructed from a bolt of cloth known as tanmono that are a set length of 12m and a range of widths from 38cm to 43cm depending on wingspan. The sides are indeed selvedges but the ends are cut. However, there's a part of the kimono known as the okumi which is the additional narrow strip of cloth that runs down the front of both sides that allows one to actually wrap AND cover the body. The okumi has one selvedge and the other edge is cut! The okumi is created by halving the tanmono
I have sown tea towel hems, 1 bat wing shirt, and a poncho. For the tea towels Elmers Glue works great and washes out once the hem is in place. For the other garments I marked a slightly larger seam allowance and then did a lock/zigzag stich just inside of where I was going to cut. I'll have to try the iron on material in a project. Thank you for the tips.
Use a walking foot for sewing and a purple thang to push top layer when sewing, don’t hold it they way we do when sewing cotton but gentle assist the top layer to stay even with bottom layer
Again an excellent video. I was taught to use a serger on handtowels. Just remember to disengage the cutting function beforehand. My old mechanical serger is still going strong.
Wondering if bias tape would be a nice finish for something like that ornament (or even some tablet woven tape). Folding over the edges double on the hems like any commercial bought fabric would also work. Kinda feels like the weaving equivalent of steeking your knitting
@@ActonCreative steeking is a Norwegian (I think) practice in knitting for those with nerves of steel. It is used to turn jumpers into cardigans by sewing 2 lines down the centre front and cutting between them. You can also use it to knit what is essentially a person sized tea cosy and cut along the body to create sleeves (think cutting webbed fingers open). It's popular with people who want to do heavily colour worked items in the round and maintain their same tension without needing to cut threads as much or work back and forth
I’ve used bias tape all around a set of double weave placemats and it worked well. But it happened to work with the design of the mats. It might not always. Doing a sewn double fold hem works but I recommend using a walking foot for your machine as the layers start shifting as you sew if the fabric is a looser weave.
I have not had the opportunity to put any of these ideas into practice, but a couple of things I remember coming across are: 1) Using small strips of iron on interfacing at or just inside the cut lines of your pattern pieces if you don't want to change the hand of your fabric with a full interfacing and 2) running a line of thinned white glue (like Elmer's) along the edge of your towels and letting it dry before cutting them apart and double fold hemming them. It is supposed to help keep that edge from splaying out and making your hem look messy at the selvedge. The regular kind should wash out when wet finishing the towels after hemming.
Great tips! Used them all myself! Except instead of zigzag stitch...I used Cross-stitch and aida-cloth to keep my stitches the same length and straight ( no machine, all hand-stitched) :)
A double turn typically works great! If you find that the handwoven fabric is really bulky, consider using a smaller weft for your hems to give you a smaller profile.
Thanks. That is what I do but I find that sometimes the ends are a bit wider than the rest of the towel. So I either cut the excess off and sew it down so it won’t unravel or fold the little bit of excess into the double fold but then it’s a bit bulky at the ends.
@@naomikatepp The one we typically use is a mid-weight interfacing that irons on. The goal is to provide structure so the handwoven fabric will shift less. As to the exact description of the product, I don't recall off the top of my head. But you can play with different options to see what you prefer! Thanks!
Here on YT, there's a channel called "The Weaver Sews." Her channel is dedicated to sewing with handwoven fabrics.
Yes! Darryl is wonderful! Definitely check her out!
The only time I used a chunky yarn woven piece was when I was given a weaving that looked like it was a sampler from a class. It had roving, it had chunky yarn, it had smooth yarns. It was 18Wx36L. So I made a tote bag out of it. No cutting. I think one end had the warp as fringe, which I hid by folding it in between the weaving and the lining. I've gotten so many compliments on that bag. 💖🌞🌵😷
Sounds great! Very creative!
Definitely a good topic. So many channels only discuss the weaving but side step the finishing details that make our handwovens truly useful. Thanks Chris.
And thank you for lending your expertise! I always appreciate it!
My tip is to keep your pattern simple and let the weaving shine. Fun fact: kimonos 👘 are made from strips of fabric. The sides of the strips are the salvages. I bet the strips are a standard length, so the ends are woven too. No cuts at all. 💖🌞🌵😷
Oooh, that's wonderful! Thank you so much for sharing!
Almost there! Standard Daily Wear Kimonos are constructed from a bolt of cloth known as tanmono that are a set length of 12m and a range of widths from 38cm to 43cm depending on wingspan.
The sides are indeed selvedges but the ends are cut. However, there's a part of the kimono known as the okumi which is the additional narrow strip of cloth that runs down the front of both sides that allows one to actually wrap AND cover the body. The okumi has one selvedge and the other edge is cut! The okumi is created by halving the tanmono
Thank you Very much. I believe this was my answer for NOT selling my loom. I had lost my zest for weaving.
I'm so glad you're keeping your loom!! Yay!!! Hopefully the zest will come back in spades!
There are SO many things you can make with handwoven. I'm going to investigate them. There are just so many towels you can make.
I have sown tea towel hems, 1 bat wing shirt, and a poncho. For the tea towels Elmers Glue works great and washes out once the hem is in place. For the other garments I marked a slightly larger seam allowance and then did a lock/zigzag stich just inside of where I was going to cut. I'll have to try the iron on material in a project. Thank you for the tips.
Thank you so much for sharing your experiences!
Use a walking foot for sewing and a purple thang to push top layer when sewing, don’t hold it they way we do when sewing cotton but gentle assist the top layer to stay even with bottom layer
@@maudegone1 Thank you for sharing your process! (What is a purple thang?)
What great tips! There’s also a product that looks like a bottle of glue that’s a fray preventer sold at fabric stores. The name escapes me.
Fray Chek is one such product. Some of them dry more flexible than others.
Yes!! Great tip!!
Fusible Thread - weave a couple of tabby rows at the beginning and the end, press; no need for hemstitching, and remains flexible.
Nice! I like this suggestion!
If you want more info on this topic, Sarah Howard, on UA-cam, is doing a series on Wear Your Weaving.
Nice! Thanks!
Again an excellent video.
I was taught to use a serger on handtowels. Just remember to disengage the cutting function beforehand. My old mechanical serger is still going strong.
A serger is a good tool to use with handwoven fabric! Great call!
Thank you, this was really helpful.
You're welcome! My pleasure!
Wondering if bias tape would be a nice finish for something like that ornament (or even some tablet woven tape). Folding over the edges double on the hems like any commercial bought fabric would also work. Kinda feels like the weaving equivalent of steeking your knitting
Ooh, I'm intrigued! Bias tape could be a great tool depending on the thickness of the fabric. And what is "steeking"?
@@ActonCreative steeking is a Norwegian (I think) practice in knitting for those with nerves of steel. It is used to turn jumpers into cardigans by sewing 2 lines down the centre front and cutting between them. You can also use it to knit what is essentially a person sized tea cosy and cut along the body to create sleeves (think cutting webbed fingers open). It's popular with people who want to do heavily colour worked items in the round and maintain their same tension without needing to cut threads as much or work back and forth
I’ve used bias tape all around a set of double weave placemats and it worked well. But it happened to work with the design of the mats. It might not always. Doing a sewn double fold hem works but I recommend using a walking foot for your machine as the layers start shifting as you sew if the fabric is a looser weave.
@@saraht855 How interesting! I love your description! Thank you so much for sharing - I learn something new every day!
@@dorym8045 Nice!! Thank you, Dory!
Do u have a video discussing where you order your threads?
Hi! I like to use my local weaving store, Three Moons Fiberworks. And if I order online, I like Cotton Clouds!
@@ActonCreative gods. Makes me wonder what in the world is around here.
I have not had the opportunity to put any of these ideas into practice, but a couple of things I remember coming across are: 1) Using small strips of iron on interfacing at or just inside the cut lines of your pattern pieces if you don't want to change the hand of your fabric with a full interfacing and 2) running a line of thinned white glue (like Elmer's) along the edge of your towels and letting it dry before cutting them apart and double fold hemming them. It is supposed to help keep that edge from splaying out and making your hem look messy at the selvedge. The regular kind should wash out when wet finishing the towels after hemming.
Oh interesting! Thank you for sharing!!
I had forgotten Wonder Under and iron on interfacing! Thanks!
Hi Connie! Yep - they come in very handy!
@ActonCreative I think I still have some. I used it in my gift sewing days. But never thought of it for woven stuff.
Great tips! Used them all myself! Except instead of zigzag stitch...I used Cross-stitch and aida-cloth to keep my stitches the same length and straight ( no machine, all hand-stitched) :)
Very smart! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for your educational videos! So what would you suggest for the hems of towels?
A double turn typically works great! If you find that the handwoven fabric is really bulky, consider using a smaller weft for your hems to give you a smaller profile.
Thanks. That is what I do but I find that sometimes the ends are a bit wider than the rest of the towel. So I either cut the excess off and sew it down so it won’t unravel or fold the little bit of excess into the double fold but then it’s a bit bulky at the ends.
All I need is a sewing machine and a gazillion bucks.
Non-woven, woven, or knit iron on interfacing?
@@naomikatepp The one we typically use is a mid-weight interfacing that irons on. The goal is to provide structure so the handwoven fabric will shift less. As to the exact description of the product, I don't recall off the top of my head. But you can play with different options to see what you prefer! Thanks!