As an amateur I'm measuring ID and OD by putting a strip of paper inside or outside and marking it where it will overlay. Then I'm laying this strip flat on my table and measure the length wich equals the circumference. The ID or OD diameter is just dividing my circumference by 3.14. Thus i'm not fiddling with oval shapes.
That's a great idea! It's also possible to measure the counter parts, such as the flange, o-ring seat etc. to figure out the ID and then the cross section is usually the depth. Whatever works best for you is the way to go. Just make sure you have the correct cross section or else you won't have enough squeeze for sealing haha. Cheers - Andreas
Thanks for making this video. I have been looking for o-rings for my pressure washer hose as well as wand. I measured the o-rings for both, but the measurements are so far off that I can't find anything even close to fit. I am going to try and measure the collars or groves and see if that works. Thanks again for the video.
You're more than welcome and thank you for tuning in! Pressure washer fittings are mostly metric, so maybe you'll be able to match an o-ring that is very close. If you measure the depth of your groove, be sure to get an o-ring that is larger in cross-section. This will allow the o-ring to squeeze and seat properly on the connection. Regards Andreas
Ty for the walk thru. One of my concers is taking something apart like my jd400 spool valve I keep putting off and not feeling confident in having the correct size or correctly ordering replacement parts.
You're welcome! I did a complete video on the JD400 valve spool and if you check the description I have a file with all the O-Rings need for the rebuild. If you have an industrial seal/o-ring dealer close to you, they should be able to find the orings without any issues. If you don't have one close to you, under this video I found a website full of o-ring dealers around North America and they should be able to ship. I hope this helps you for your rebuild. Don't forget to check the wear on your valve spools before you order parts! This is super important, so you do not have any internal power loss. Best regards
I'm glad these videos have helped you! You're more than welcome. All o-rings are based off industrial sizes and you can find these in many applications. If you ever find a colored o-ring, this will be a different material but they run the same sizes in Metric & Imperial. I hope this helps. Cheers -Andreas
hello sir! thank you for fast answering. please tell how can you recognize between millimetric and inch? and what if its a unknown source of machine? thank you so much!
If you have an digital caliper, you can easily switch between metric and imperial sizes. Most of the time you can identify which size is closest to a metric or imperial. If you cannot figure out the size based on your o-ring, you can measure the parts where this o-ring will seal up against. This will give you a hint if it's metric or imperial. Another trick to figure out if your components are metric or imperial is to check the bolt threads. Most of the time a manufacturer will opt for metric or imperial. If this is the case, the whole assembly is usually manufactured to that specification...even the o-rings! I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
No I did not pick the wrong part number. O-rings are manufactured in standard sizes. With that said, if I ever measure 2.36, 2.37, 2.38 or even 2.39mm I will always opt for 2.40mm. Used o-rings get squeezed and you always want to round up your number. If you were to choose 2.00mm you would be far too small in cross-section, will will eventually lead to a leak. Most o-ring grooves usually have enough room for extra squeeze of an o-ring so there is never really an issue. Thanks for your comment and concerns. I hope I was able to share why I chose the larger cross-section in this video. Cheers
As an amateur I'm measuring ID and OD by putting a strip of paper inside or outside and marking it where it will overlay. Then I'm laying this strip flat on my table and measure the length wich equals the circumference. The ID or OD diameter is just dividing my circumference by 3.14. Thus i'm not fiddling with oval shapes.
That's a great idea! It's also possible to measure the counter parts, such as the flange, o-ring seat etc. to figure out the ID and then the cross section is usually the depth. Whatever works best for you is the way to go. Just make sure you have the correct cross section or else you won't have enough squeeze for sealing haha. Cheers - Andreas
Thanks for making this video. I have been looking for o-rings for my pressure washer hose as well as wand. I measured the o-rings for both, but the measurements are so far off that I can't find anything even close to fit. I am going to try and measure the collars or groves and see if that works. Thanks again for the video.
You're more than welcome and thank you for tuning in! Pressure washer fittings are mostly metric, so maybe you'll be able to match an o-ring that is very close. If you measure the depth of your groove, be sure to get an o-ring that is larger in cross-section. This will allow the o-ring to squeeze and seat properly on the connection.
Regards Andreas
Ty for the walk thru.
One of my concers is taking something apart like my jd400 spool valve I keep putting off and not feeling confident in having the correct size or correctly ordering replacement parts.
You're welcome! I did a complete video on the JD400 valve spool and if you check the description I have a file with all the O-Rings need for the rebuild. If you have an industrial seal/o-ring dealer close to you, they should be able to find the orings without any issues. If you don't have one close to you, under this video I found a website full of o-ring dealers around North America and they should be able to ship. I hope this helps you for your rebuild. Don't forget to check the wear on your valve spools before you order parts! This is super important, so you do not have any internal power loss. Best regards
Awesome video! Thank you
I'm glad you enjoyed this video! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Regards Andreas
Wow! It works. Thank you.
I'm glad these videos have helped you! You're more than welcome. All o-rings are based off industrial sizes and you can find these in many applications. If you ever find a colored o-ring, this will be a different material but they run the same sizes in Metric & Imperial. I hope this helps. Cheers -Andreas
hello sir!
thank you for fast answering.
please tell how can you recognize between millimetric and inch?
and what if its a unknown source of machine?
thank you so much!
If you have an digital caliper, you can easily switch between metric and imperial sizes. Most of the time you can identify which size is closest to a metric or imperial. If you cannot figure out the size based on your o-ring, you can measure the parts where this o-ring will seal up against. This will give you a hint if it's metric or imperial.
Another trick to figure out if your components are metric or imperial is to check the bolt threads. Most of the time a manufacturer will opt for metric or imperial. If this is the case, the whole assembly is usually manufactured to that specification...even the o-rings!
I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
I guess Im the only one that noticed that you picked the wrong part number for the second oring? The ID was 2.36, but you selected 2.42...?
No I did not pick the wrong part number. O-rings are manufactured in standard sizes. With that said, if I ever measure 2.36, 2.37, 2.38 or even 2.39mm I will always opt for 2.40mm.
Used o-rings get squeezed and you always want to round up your number. If you were to choose 2.00mm you would be far too small in cross-section, will will eventually lead to a leak.
Most o-ring grooves usually have enough room for extra squeeze of an o-ring so there is never really an issue.
Thanks for your comment and concerns. I hope I was able to share why I chose the larger cross-section in this video. Cheers