Mate how's it going sound like belfast 😀. Mate I'm looking the bottom half of the back of my terrace house rendered . If I send u measurements or pics could you give me a quote and possibly do it gor me in the next few weeks
This is not a video for beginners. I was expecting a step by step guide on how to render. How to prepare the wall, how to mix the mortar or can you buy rendering mortar which you add water. Also the purpose of rendering? What's SBR? Etc
@@Do_not_assume everything you listed can be found on the channel over 500 videos there also this is just 1 part of the 3parts on this subject the purpose for sbr is explained in this video the reason for the rendering is the home owners want it done again many mixing and rendering videos linked to this on the channel thanks again for watching and commenting
Love watching your videos. I do alot of silicone render acrilic etc. I don't use sand cement though. Have u add any is with it delamination putting silicone over top. All the reps of the silicone. All say they won't spec sand cement. Basecoat.
what do they spec as base coat ? as i remember here when this 1st came out it was out before all these base coats and was done on s and cement with the primer that is for that? never had any issues done a house this way a long time ago maybe 15 years and looks good anytime i drive past that been said that's the oldest of this type of job I have been on
@@macplastering that's reassuring as might start using cheaper ocrs on silicone work. The spec literally was anything but s&c. It's probably just to cover thier backs. And spend more money on thier polymer basecoats.
yea s and c dont make them any so they wont cover it here carlite finishing plaster said the same as they wanted to sell under coat for insides now all of a sudden its off the bag and dont mention that i think @@kaimichael5444
@@DistilledHealth Nice one the new videos I have might help some but should be good enjoyable to watch ...... so on a fire pit it might be best to use lime with clean washed plastering sand as it should hold up better to the heat but if its not going to get to hot or for just the outside of the pit this should be ok
@@macplastering thank you mate. I gotta check what sort of sand they have over here. I’m from England but the sand they have in California is different. Do I want sharp sand or finer sand?
Sharp but not to big of grain or you'll be picking them out like you don't want paving sand or concrte sand as they have them big pips in so a grade down from them and you dont want building sand as it will have to muxch clay in and will be hard to put on spread and can crack and slump loads when working with ( stucco sand might be a thing there not 100% sure as they do call sand and cement stucco
I use sbr instead of pva internally and always let it dry. Same when I use pva, I always go over it dry. Never understood the old wives tale of having to go over pva tacky, number one it re emulsifies and two, if you’re doing a big area, it’s always gonna be dry when you get towards the end of it
@nikthegreekcypriot yeh internally let it dry for skimming. But if your scratching over red brick its best to go over the sbr wet. You can even feel the scratch coat bonding with the red brick better
Hi Nik so when you use sbr and let it dry you know it wont re emulsifie as it is a very water prof product in fact 1st used by wall tilers to water proof and tank wet areas so the reason i like to hit them while wet / tacky is so the chemically bond in otherwards dry together this is best for optimum strength but yes pva will come back to life especially 2 coats if you are going over sbr dry it could shell off but if your getting lucky its possibly as you sealed the wall but remember sometimes suction is good and helps bond the gear on hoping to do some great test in near future for this sort of thing thanks for the comment
So impressive, i wish i had that special arm, i've watched houses being rendered in my area, some cringeworthy most a nice job, i know roughly how long it takes but the trades in my area charge like a wounded rhino or i've just had the wrong guys in to quote.
Charge like a wounded rhino thats a cracker mate :) things just all seem to be going up materials and scaffolding fuel back and forward probs best to get people in you know or mates who know them so you know they are charging ok and are good
@@macplastering Hi Mac thanks for the response, after owning my own metalwork co for 18yrs i'd never expect anyone to work for nowt, correct me if i'm wrong and i would be grateful for any feedback but i've two properties i need rendering, one is 2 walls on a 3 bed semi totaling 63 meters, i thought a fair price would be around 3-3.5k, i get that peak summers not the best time for rendering and freezing winter conditions are out of the question which narrows the working window down quite a lot, am i that far out with my expectations? i'm in the midlands not London.
@@roydickins7764 I myself always look at a job then price it on how many days how any men how hard is it how far away is it from me so on... I would be working out labour but some time need to get all the gear priced and scaffolding, tell me mate would the guys you getting prices of do most their work in around London ~? also what's the houses made from brick block stone ?
I'm doing a chimney tomorrow it's brick. Can I sbr it then rib lath it and scratch and finish. I want to ensure it's sealed properly from the weather. Thanks for reading. Regards Ian
@ianwarren2444 is the brick cracked badly? You could go that way or you could scud it the put fiberglass sheeting on into scratch and then top coat but both ways will work
after doing the front the same way I would have to say no the whole fron half the house was done a year or 2 before this so it was fine plus all mixes and renders claimed permeable.
Lime mortar render, not gypsum/portland cement, should be used on clay brick which need to breathe. Cement is harder and traps moisture within the wall causing damp problems. It is almost impossible to remove as it defaces the brick. Many period properties have suffered damage from cement repairs done in recent decades. Speak to anyone involved in conservation and they will say the same. This is no criticism of your skilled craftsmanship.
I hear you but these brick are on there last legs as is ... every thing used claims to be permabile also its build with sand and cement these are belfast brick seen them rendered and chipped off render lasted 40 more years and no damage to brick with been chipped of see our other videos it shows it so I would have to say this protects the brick rather it needing re rendered than knocked down lime is good but not great here where it is wet 88% of the time
@@macplasteringlooks like a traditional build with cavity to me? Just curious as the guy was on at you about using lime for breathability. You’re doing precisely the right thing in my opinion, I’m from south west coast of Scotland just across from you and we find ourselves doing this all the time, brickwork spalls and blows the faces off, starts pulling water in. We get a lot of work wet dashing them, happy times 😂. Keep up the good work, I really enjoy your videos 👍
@@teddysuhrensghost263 I find lime likes nice dry places this render on the buckets says it allows air in also so dose most the additives say the same but yes brick here is more or less on its last legs so this will no doubt prolong the build, yes the old wet dash lovly and clean haha
@@macplastering dirtiest messiest job around with massive clean up at the finish but wet dashing is genuinely good crack 😂. We work in a gang for efficiency so we are lucky, doing it on your own is a hard living. You know how it is, you’ve got to be up for the graft at that kind of job
Some job👍💪. This has intrigued me though? On the END instructions it states mix the and with cement and brush into wall and app!y scratch coat into this whilst wet. I've done this and never had a problem, but this looks far easier
Hi there great video, is any of this stuff ready mixed ? I want to cover and external wall with old and crumbling brick, I’ve no plastering skills at all, I’m not even very good at DIY, is there anything out there almost idiot proof?
yes the part 3 the top coat but the rest is hand made again all mixes are on the channel buddy just type in on channel will pop up and ask away if in doubt
None where lose but believe it or not this will strengthen the wall big time for example in a newer video we have up you can see a non load bearing wall and it was wobbly and lose but after a scud coat its as solid as a new build wall its also what would be recommended by a STRUCRAL ENGENIRE
Great video Mac. Just wondering whether on a 750mm high garden wall, which is built on a good footing 150mm below the paving level, can this be rendered down to the footing? The 150mm below paving has a 3/4" stone chipping fill to make like a drain channel to a soakaway. Concerned that the capillery action will blow the render.
Hi John mate its 3 to 1 sands plastering sand its a type of sharp sand have a mixing video might be of some use ua-cam.com/video/Rddi80rA6u0/v-deo.html
No mate all straight on same as the front witch was done and had 0 issues but mesh would be good but i find its al about that bond and mix also the top top coat acrylic should move to prevent cracks so they say , and to be honest any we ever done has always looked good eve after a good few years done
@@macplastering that’s good to know mate. Planning on finishing my front wall this year. Used scud coat last time then the tar mac all in one render. Was pretty good but want to try sand and cements
With its lungs lol but in all serious these red brick houses have been done this way for a long time with no ill effect also the additives and top coat say they are permeable secondly did you not see the brick this will protect it far better that what it was doing this house was threw up during the war apparently but the old brick wasn't doing to good breathtaking on its own why the owner chose to go this way
Pointed a chimney in pole glass last week & house in Durham street last month mixed SBR & PVA together in the mix. The next day the pointing was all white & looked a mess & I was always wondering why that was😂 Stopped using SBR because I thought that was the issue. They also smell like nail varnish remover when mixed together.
How much did you add lol I wouldn't mix them together pva unless its for exterior isn't water prof so i bet it was that making it look white as the damp would make it re activate
@@macplastering Will be sticking with the SBR from now on. Only 4 caps of each from the lid. Never been more embarrassed in my life 😅 Thanks for the heads up, wasn’t aware of that now.
@@Admin-uv2hn Yea 4 caps would be a good strong mix for sure dont always take loads to make a big difference :) thanks for watching and commenting mate :)
Never add adhesive to coloured mortar, it always turns white, just add a small dash of freeflow or plasticiser 👍 low water and mix longer 👍 oh and dry mix your coloured stuff first if your adding dry dyes 👍 try horizontal and vertical scratch - let's the air out
Hi John thanks mate yes or a plastic one but i like using rules and gives a great sharp corner also great for when it come to the applying and finishing the acrylic , them videos are all on the channel also mate thanks for watching and commenting john :)
2 to 1 mate for the mix.can u tell me the main reason for that.besides it being a stronger mix ,totally agree with coating over the sbr when it's wet.the way u said it all goes hard together and grips to the wall makes sense.just curious now mac.i often goes with an extra bit of cement usually for reveals and if I want to get a job floated up quicker.i know the scratch coat should be a bit stronger than the finish coat,so my question probably answers itself 🤔
Came here to see if I should put my coin on before scratch coat or after, I think it’s after, but I learned so much from you, many thanks for this video. Subscribed! I’ve always followed the mix ratio on the plasticiser bottle so my mix as generally been 1:4, man! No wonder I’ve been having problems. Would you use 1:2 on an external stone mortar wall. I got too many questions
Yes i would for sure scratch then add bands or quoin stones ect best to do the mixes that work best for you here its 3 to 1 then a 4 to 1 top coat I think i say 2 to 1 but meant 3 to 1 again if need to scud coat 1st likes of old walls I have that video on the channel how to scud and mix scud coat if you have a look = ua-cam.com/video/PxfawvJqCck/v-deo.html
I was a UK plasterer and now live in Australia....plastering trade is so bad here...they never put a scratch coat and they wonder why the render falls off....lol
How is it rendering in that heat man I seen guys doing it before in Spain was like WOW they also use loads of mono renders witch make sense to me as they can for sure get it scrapped same day
You're great, mate. love your videos been watching them for years. Learnt a lot from you but are you supposed to render below dpc, why do you not put a bell bead on?
Hi mate the ground on outside is already higher than it and he was not for digging it all up and wanted it stright to ground think you can see if you look at video when i am at a part where the base disappears underground
Now dissolve me Two tabs on your tongue A herd of shepherds to herd the sheep Sleep now, my only one Broken sweethearts, ah Who sleep apart Both still pine for the other's side spine Spoon as sleep starts
hi mac i like to see a plasterer going left to right ( i,ll probably cop it a bit for that , ) and a small point when i do a scratch coat i leave it until its slightly more firm , weather can be a factor , or timing etc i just dont really like how scratching early makes high spots, just my way take care from alister
I hear ya mate yes them combs can leave the odd bump but i go early just as i find if gear sets some its hard to get as nice a key with these types of scratchers
@@macplastering fair call mac , i personally dont use the square ended scratch, i have cut down welding rods welded onto L channel with a bit of pipe welded onto the channel , sounds as rough as, but my mate is a welder, it works really well ,lol cheers from alister
Nice job, but i would of cut the bricks out turned them round or replaced where necessary, as now it has to be maintained with paint through it's life and any new homeowners might wonder what it's is hiding and effect the selling.
You need to watch the full videos mate like this is just the under coat and is no paint there is acrylic render on the finish never need to paint for the next 24 years
This is not rendering it's pure art quick question I had my house plastered a few years back unfortunately in some areas the paint is chalky any advice will be really nice
Hello my friend thanks for watching and commenting, hard to say with out seeing could be a poor mix ir to much lime... some lime renders can be soft, is it dusty in spots crumbly that could be a part that dried to fast before finishing
it sure is a hard trade and can take time too pick it up well I had a mate dong building work over there he was illegal and ended up kicked out but apparently he worked for another builder and they had that much work on the guy just gave him 50% of it and made him his own boss doing his own thing he is supposed to b4e a very good builder all the same
for sure to tidy it up and make it more modern mate but will add more weather protection and no doubt sone strength ... i think this house was fired up after the war things are up and down and in and out a lot
Are you bridging the dpc , I can’t really see, obviously you wouldnt do that, would be great to do a video on , why you shouldn’t bridge a damp proof course👍🏻
The ground here is level with inside you can see it on the acrylic where the base of the house disappears but even at that there is even new builds done straight to the ground and dont have any rising damp but yes a base/plinth or bell cast would help stop/slow rising damp and again depending who we talk to others dont believe in rising damp
Hi Clarkey mate only bead was a little stop bead on one wall above the roof on lead, I prefer to go with out beads old skool :) plus acrylic render to be laid on after I rub this up, have that video on all ready but acryic render video should be Sunday
Great Video as ever mate. Would you be up for doing an interview on my 'Ask The Plasterer' Live Stream in about 6 weeks time? Would be great to have you on the show. Let me know. Eric 😀
Hi I'm a girl therefore I don't know wtf I'm doing. Basically, my garage brisk walls have this render cement thing on it but its coming off, it's also painted white and full of moss. As I was powerwashing to get rid of the moss, the cement bits started to come off too. I'm ok with that I just wanna make sure it's OK, I don't wanna destroy my garage wall. Ideally I could take all the cement off with he jet watsh, would that be ok??
Hard to say without seeing it but if the joints in the brick are ok then power wash it all off for sure but if you think that it will damage the joint then chipping off by hand would be safe
Shame that mate. what mix did they use what prep did they do ? had you seen the work they done before you went with them? we have done rendering on brick that is still looking brilliant years later one the oldest i remember is a bar in Belfast over brick and still looks as good as the day it was done been painted 2 diffrent colours from then that i have noticed going past, this job must be some 15 years old now was smooth render with lines cut into it and big walls not small facing the road , wind , rain and frost but yes every plasterer do things diffrent and then again I have seen people spend thousand on cars brand new and they have problems or 100s on washing machines and mobile phones that dont last but a few months after the years guarantee is up yet no one seems to complain about that makes you think the pressure on plasterers to do well is more than that of multi million some times billions worth company's yet their reputations seem to stay with them but plasterers is only as good as their last job or worst job.. I myself wish and try to make every job i do look as good as possible but even more so last as long as possible I have lost money doing things buckles and braces. Sorry for the big response and thanks for watching and commenting with your experience Matt mate
@seanoxborough5830 no mesh needed unless lose or cracks but then they should be tackled a different road no base wanted by owner also where you you put it as the grounds higher than inside but thanks for commenting
You need to get the red render-grip, it’s so consistent in holding the background and an extra coat of waterproof on that red brick 🧱 before the scratch
@@macplastering all depends on suction, but never tried it, it paints on like a dream and no mess compared to the thistle bond etc for indoor use it’s much creamier and at least you have a bit of grip with it when you’re going over smooth red brick or smooth concrete heads etc, week worth it if you can get an hour and get it painted on the day or a couple of days before chum. Once it’s on and set it’s never coming off anything it’s that strong
Yeah it’s just that the render grip takes away any sliding on anything smooth, plus it nearly holds together whatever you put it over especially when you were making up those broken cills in one of your videos, you could build it out and nearly plant a bead into it it’s that creamy and sets like granite 😆
You don't like this finish ?this is just the base coat ? the finish is going to be acrylic one of the nicest finishes outside there is. Have a look at the last video on this series. when you say weather board do you mean like a timber clad or stone clad ? and don't get me wrong sometimes brick is very nice but these where no laid well at all they are every shape all over the house very bad job even though done by old timers but looks like it was a rush job back then
Only a idiot would render over face brick, aside of that the pointing should have been removed in places to give the render a better key to the brick,give it 5 years and that will be full of hairline cracks which will trap rain water and lead to damp.
Spot on Thomas. Ridiculous state of affairs when time honoured lime based plastering has been supplanted by short term cement based dodgy work practices.
@@rossmcleod7983 ok so put a time om this how ;long you say it will last ? no make a video of your lime job recent and we can compare in what 5 years ?
*Sorry* guys mix was 3 to 1 @1:35
PART 2 ua-cam.com/video/EFLpC_SI85k/v-deo.html
Part 3 ua-cam.com/video/esecmneRJpE/v-deo.html
Mate how's it going sound like belfast 😀.
Mate I'm looking the bottom half of the back of my terrace house rendered .
If I send u measurements or pics could you give me a quote and possibly do it gor me in the next few weeks
The measurements are 19ft x 9 ft high going over red brick . Have you a contact number or email mate .
Tia
@@pj-1888 macplasteringservices@hotmail.com
This is not a video for beginners. I was expecting a step by step guide on how to render. How to prepare the wall, how to mix the mortar or can you buy rendering mortar which you add water. Also the purpose of rendering? What's SBR? Etc
@@Do_not_assume everything you listed can be found on the channel over 500 videos there also this is just 1 part of the 3parts on this subject the purpose for sbr is explained in this video the reason for the rendering is the home owners want it done again many mixing and rendering videos linked to this on the channel thanks again for watching and commenting
Part 3 acrylic render ua-cam.com/video/esecmneRJpE/v-deo.html
Part 2 - rendering the walls smooth - ua-cam.com/video/EFLpC_SI85k/v-deo.html
New video on rendering great for the new to the trade
ua-cam.com/video/O_bKXwgqT3U/v-deo.htmlsi=wJJdU51IJI-j2ZRj
Thanks for this upload, Nice background information on prepping over brickwork, when to scud or SBR, ratio's etc 👍💪
Glad its helpful mate the scratch was 3 to 1 think i say 2 to 1 by mistake
You make it look so easy!
Thank you buddy have a new version out where we go over old and some painted block and another in the making :)
Love watching these typa videos 😊
More to come on this type of stuff
Cheers mate....Your videos are ace !
Thanks buddy means a tonne appreciate you watching and commenting hope your weekend is great
nice tip about the glue
No problems mate and thanks for watching and commenting my friend =)
Good informative video.
Hi Dave thank you buddy hope your getting on well, thanks again fir watching and commenting Dave mate
Some grate tips there mate 👍👍👍
Cheers mate this acrylic looks nice all done a but like we where daying all the prep work isnt seen =)
Great video mate
Thank you Andy mate :)
Love watching your videos.
I do alot of silicone render acrilic etc.
I don't use sand cement though. Have u add any is with it delamination putting silicone over top.
All the reps of the silicone. All say they won't spec sand cement.
Basecoat.
what do they spec as base coat ? as i remember here when this 1st came out it was out before all these base coats and was done on s and cement with the primer that is for that? never had any issues done a house this way a long time ago maybe 15 years and looks good anytime i drive past that been said that's the oldest of this type of job I have been on
@@macplastering that's reassuring as might start using cheaper ocrs on silicone work.
The spec literally was anything but s&c.
It's probably just to cover thier backs.
And spend more money on thier polymer basecoats.
yea s and c dont make them any so they wont cover it here carlite finishing plaster said the same as they wanted to sell under coat for insides now all of a sudden its off the bag and dont mention that i think @@kaimichael5444
Mate let me know if you do and find it any different @kaimichael5444
Very helpful Thanks
Glad it helped you Nick mate
Thanks Mac!
Hi mate glad it is of some help feel free to subscriber as have a few really great videos coming out this Sunday tomorrow and next Sunday :)
@@macplastering very helpful mate! I live in Southern California but I’m going to tackle a fire pit and wanted to know how to render it after!
Thanks!
@@DistilledHealth Nice one the new videos I have might help some but should be good enjoyable to watch ...... so on a fire pit it might be best to use lime with clean washed plastering sand as it should hold up better to the heat but if its not going to get to hot or for just the outside of the pit this should be ok
@@macplastering thank you mate. I gotta check what sort of sand they have over here. I’m from England but the sand they have in California is different.
Do I want sharp sand or finer sand?
Sharp but not to big of grain or you'll be picking them out like you don't want paving sand or concrte sand as they have them big pips in so a grade down from them and you dont want building sand as it will have to muxch clay in and will be hard to put on spread and can crack and slump loads when working with ( stucco sand might be a thing there not 100% sure as they do call sand and cement stucco
Good job
Thanks for watching and commenting mate 👍
100% agree with going over the sbr wet 👌👌
I use sbr instead of pva internally and always let it dry. Same when I use pva, I always go over it dry. Never understood the old wives tale of having to go over pva tacky, number one it re emulsifies and two, if you’re doing a big area, it’s always gonna be dry when you get towards the end of it
For sure luke mate Its the way i been doing it and working 100%
@nikthegreekcypriot yeh internally let it dry for skimming. But if your scratching over red brick its best to go over the sbr wet. You can even feel the scratch coat bonding with the red brick better
@@macplastering 100%. We would only scud when totally necessary. If it was a few heavy coats of s&c going on or something like that. Sbr is the dogs
Hi Nik so when you use sbr and let it dry you know it wont re emulsifie as it is a very water prof product in fact 1st used by wall tilers to water proof and tank wet areas so the reason i like to hit them while wet / tacky is so the chemically bond in otherwards dry together this is best for optimum strength but yes pva will come back to life especially 2 coats if you are going over sbr dry it could shell off but if your getting lucky its possibly as you sealed the wall but remember sometimes suction is good and helps bond the gear on hoping to do some great test in near future for this sort of thing thanks for the comment
So impressive, i wish i had that special arm, i've watched houses being rendered in my area, some cringeworthy most a nice job, i know roughly how long it takes but the trades in my area charge like a wounded rhino or i've just had the wrong guys in to quote.
Charge like a wounded rhino thats a cracker mate :) things just all seem to be going up materials and scaffolding fuel back and forward probs best to get people in you know or mates who know them so you know they are charging ok and are good
@@macplastering Hi Mac thanks for the response, after owning my own metalwork co for 18yrs i'd never expect anyone to work for nowt, correct me if i'm wrong and i would be grateful for any feedback but i've two properties i need rendering, one is 2 walls on a 3 bed semi totaling 63 meters, i thought a fair price would be around 3-3.5k, i get that peak summers not the best time for rendering and freezing winter conditions are out of the question which narrows the working window down quite a lot, am i that far out with my expectations? i'm in the midlands not London.
@@roydickins7764 I myself always look at a job then price it on how many days how any men how hard is it how far away is it from me so on... I would be working out labour but some time need to get all the gear priced and scaffolding, tell me mate would the guys you getting prices of do most their work in around London ~? also what's the houses made from brick block stone ?
@@macplastering hi are you in Northern Ireland ?
Just outside Belfast Mark
I'm doing a chimney tomorrow it's brick. Can I sbr it then rib lath it and scratch and finish. I want to ensure it's sealed properly from the weather. Thanks for reading.
Regards Ian
Rib lath is that wire mesh?
@@macplastering Yes EPL!! With ribis on it Galvanised sheet stiffened by the longitudinal ribs.
2400mm by 600mm sheet.
Used as a key for render.
@ianwarren2444 is the brick cracked badly? You could go that way or you could scud it the put fiberglass sheeting on into scratch and then top coat but both ways will work
Hi mate..good video..Am I OK to sbr on to smooth brick and still have a superior bond?
Would there be issue with reduced breathability? Do one cost renders work ok or is it best to use the two coat type?
after doing the front the same way I would have to say no the whole fron half the house was done a year or 2 before this so it was fine plus all mixes and renders claimed permeable.
@@macplastering Thanks - great videos btw.
Lime mortar render, not gypsum/portland cement, should be used on clay brick which need to breathe. Cement is harder and traps moisture within the wall causing damp problems. It is almost impossible to remove as it defaces the brick. Many period properties have suffered damage from cement repairs done in recent decades. Speak to anyone involved in conservation and they will say the same. This is no criticism of your skilled craftsmanship.
I hear you but these brick are on there last legs as is ... every thing used claims to be permabile also its build with sand and cement these are belfast brick seen them rendered and chipped off render lasted 40 more years and no damage to brick with been chipped of see our other videos it shows it so I would have to say this protects the brick rather it needing re rendered than knocked down lime is good but not great here where it is wet 88% of the time
@@macplasteringlooks like a traditional build with cavity to me? Just curious as the guy was on at you about using lime for breathability. You’re doing precisely the right thing in my opinion, I’m from south west coast of Scotland just across from you and we find ourselves doing this all the time, brickwork spalls and blows the faces off, starts pulling water in. We get a lot of work wet dashing them, happy times 😂. Keep up the good work, I really enjoy your videos 👍
@@teddysuhrensghost263 I find lime likes nice dry places this render on the buckets says it allows air in also so dose most the additives say the same but yes brick here is more or less on its last legs so this will no doubt prolong the build, yes the old wet dash lovly and clean haha
@@macplastering dirtiest messiest job around with massive clean up at the finish but wet dashing is genuinely good crack 😂. We work in a gang for efficiency so we are lucky, doing it on your own is a hard living. You know how it is, you’ve got to be up for the graft at that kind of job
@teddysuhrensghost263 ye need to be ready to get stuck in in the plastering game for sure. Yea I find even when covered up stuff it still need washing
Some job👍💪. This has intrigued me though? On the END instructions it states mix the and with cement and brush into wall and app!y scratch coat into this whilst wet. I've done this and never had a problem, but this looks far easier
Sorry, sbr instructions
There is also sbr in the sand and cement to help it bond
Hi there great video, is any of this stuff ready mixed ? I want to cover and external wall with old and crumbling brick, I’ve no plastering skills at all, I’m not even very good at DIY, is there anything out there almost idiot proof?
yes the part 3 the top coat but the rest is hand made again all mixes are on the channel buddy just type in on channel will pop up and ask away if in doubt
do plasterers not scud the walls before the first coat anymore?
Sure do you will find it on this channel but its all about the job whats best to do, actually have scuding vudeos coming up
@@macplastering great looking forward to it, thanks.
So you don’t need to repoint the bricks that are loose?
None where lose but believe it or not this will strengthen the wall big time for example in a newer video we have up you can see a non load bearing wall and it was wobbly and lose but after a scud coat its as solid as a new build wall its also what would be recommended by a STRUCRAL ENGENIRE
You're a beast how fast you get the mud on the walls
Cheers man should have seen us go in that 5 day house :)
PART 2 sand and cement render smooth @
Great video Mac. Just wondering whether on a 750mm high garden wall, which is built on a good footing 150mm below the paving level, can this be rendered down to the footing? The 150mm below paving has a 3/4" stone chipping fill to make like a drain channel to a soakaway. Concerned that the capillery action will blow the render.
Might be better to put some stones in 1st the work down then finish off level it should help stop risk of rising water on it
@@macplastering great thanks Mac, rhat is exactly what is there already!!
Soft or sharp sand.
Hi John mate its 3 to 1 sands plastering sand its a type of sharp sand have a mixing video might be of some use ua-cam.com/video/Rddi80rA6u0/v-deo.html
Hi Mac, will you be putting mesh on? Do you put it on in your base or top coat?
No mate all straight on same as the front witch was done and had 0 issues but mesh would be good but i find its al about that bond and mix also the top top coat acrylic should move to prevent cracks so they say , and to be honest any we ever done has always looked good eve after a good few years done
@@macplastering good to know mate.
@@danmurphy7338 thing is no cracks on them so cant see it been to bad that way mesh is good but if its gonna crack even mesh wont stop it
@@macplastering that’s good to know mate. Planning on finishing my front wall this year. Used scud coat last time then the tar mac all in one render. Was pretty good but want to try sand and cements
Glad this is helpful we do have a good few of these types of videos but as you know more to come :)
thanks bro plastering science
Hi mate thanks for watching have a few more newer ones on the channel too
Ready, bro, greetings from Indonesia, South Kalimantan
@@AbahauliaCs brilliant hope your are doing well my friend
If this is a portland cement stucco how does the brick masonry breath?
With its lungs lol but in all serious these red brick houses have been done this way for a long time with no ill effect also the additives and top coat say they are permeable secondly did you not see the brick this will protect it far better that what it was doing this house was threw up during the war apparently but the old brick wasn't doing to good breathtaking on its own why the owner chose to go this way
Pointed a chimney in pole glass last week & house in Durham street last month mixed SBR & PVA together in the mix. The next day the pointing was all white & looked a mess & I was always wondering why that was😂 Stopped using SBR because I thought that was the issue. They also smell like nail varnish remover when mixed together.
How much did you add lol I wouldn't mix them together pva unless its for exterior isn't water prof so i bet it was that making it look white as the damp would make it re activate
@@macplastering Will be sticking with the SBR from now on. Only 4 caps of each from the lid. Never been more embarrassed in my life 😅 Thanks for the heads up, wasn’t aware of that now.
@@Admin-uv2hn Yea 4 caps would be a good strong mix for sure dont always take loads to make a big difference :) thanks for watching and commenting mate :)
Never add adhesive to coloured mortar, it always turns white, just add a small dash of freeflow or plasticiser 👍 low water and mix longer 👍 oh and dry mix your coloured stuff first if your adding dry dyes 👍 try horizontal and vertical scratch - let's the air out
Hi great video. Do I water down the SBR? Also can i squirt washing up liquid in the cement mix?
You can but straight would be best I wouldn't go any weaker than 50/50 you would be better using a proper plasticizer mate
@@macplastering cheers pal. I'll have a crack at it.
Good job you can stick a metal corner bead but it needs to be as close brick as possible but more straight with a corner
Hi John thanks mate yes or a plastic one but i like using rules and gives a great sharp corner also great for when it come to the applying and finishing the acrylic , them videos are all on the channel also mate thanks for watching and commenting john :)
2 to 1 mate for the mix.can u tell me the main reason for that.besides it being a stronger mix ,totally agree with coating over the sbr when it's wet.the way u said it all goes hard together and grips to the wall makes sense.just curious now mac.i often goes with an extra bit of cement usually for reveals and if I want to get a job floated up quicker.i know the scratch coat should be a bit stronger than the finish coat,so my question probably answers itself 🤔
I meant to say 3 to 1 mate then 4 to 1
If i can if the revels are not bad shape I try get them finished same day as my scratch coat
yea i messed that saying to 2 to 1 i meant 3 to 1 will do a pop up to fix man thanks for seeing that
@@macplastering ah no bodz mate I thought that might be the case alright but wasn't sure was there some other reason.👍
@@emmettmccarthy7247 i think the scud coat was on my mind and thats why that came out lol
Came here to see if I should put my coin on before scratch coat or after, I think it’s after, but I learned so much from you, many thanks for this video. Subscribed!
I’ve always followed the mix ratio on the plasticiser bottle so my mix as generally been 1:4, man! No wonder I’ve been having problems.
Would you use 1:2 on an external stone mortar wall.
I got too many questions
Yes i would for sure scratch then add bands or quoin stones ect best to do the mixes that work best for you here its 3 to 1 then a 4 to 1 top coat I think i say 2 to 1 but meant 3 to 1 again if need to scud coat 1st likes of old walls I have that video on the channel how to scud and mix scud coat if you have a look = ua-cam.com/video/PxfawvJqCck/v-deo.html
I was a UK plasterer and now live in Australia....plastering trade is so bad here...they never put a scratch coat and they wonder why the render falls off....lol
How is it rendering in that heat man I seen guys doing it before in Spain was like WOW they also use loads of mono renders witch make sense to me as they can for sure get it scrapped same day
all the plasterers i know all use SPR in lancashire have been for years,
Yea its the good stuff anto have older videos using it but not as much details given as this one, thanks for watchibg and commenting Anthony
SBR
The sbr is a God send for us
How do you REMOVE this type of material from exterior brick? Is doing so an expensive project?
Kango hammer drill I have a few videos of me taking if the old it can be costly if big area and some can be well stuck still
straight lines not wavy? not hating just wonder why you do the straight 👍🏻
Hi Jordan mate I believe it is better hope to do a video i future showing my thoughts why
oh and its easier with these type of scratcher mate
You're great, mate. love your videos been watching them for years. Learnt a lot from you but are you supposed to render below dpc, why do you not put a bell bead on?
Hi mate the ground on outside is already higher than it and he was not for digging it all up and wanted it stright to ground think you can see if you look at video when i am at a part where the base disappears underground
Now dissolve me
Two tabs on your tongue
A herd of shepherds to herd the sheep
Sleep now, my only one
Broken sweethearts, ah
Who sleep apart
Both still pine for the other's side spine
Spoon as sleep starts
Did u write this poem?
@@macplastering definitely! I wrote it for you 🥰
why did you not scud the walls before you put on a scratch coat?
I did explain that near the end of the video mate
hi mac i like to see a plasterer going left to right ( i,ll probably cop it a bit for that , ) and a small point when i do a scratch coat i leave it until its slightly more firm , weather can be a factor , or timing etc i just dont really like how scratching early makes high spots, just my way take care from alister
I hear ya mate yes them combs can leave the odd bump but i go early just as i find if gear sets some its hard to get as nice a key with these types of scratchers
@@macplastering fair call mac , i personally dont use the square ended scratch, i have cut down welding rods welded onto L channel with a bit of pipe welded onto the channel , sounds as rough as, but my mate is a welder, it works really well ,lol cheers from alister
Best scratchers are home made possibly same as dashing trowels :)
What is sbr?
An exterior glue that is also water proof so it helps the render bond and if added to the mix helps it be waterproof and stronger
Its like painting with cement
Thanks for watching buddy
Nice job, but i would of cut the bricks out turned them round or replaced where necessary, as now it has to be maintained with paint through it's life and any new homeowners might wonder what it's is hiding and effect the selling.
You need to watch the full videos mate like this is just the under coat and is no paint there is acrylic render on the finish never need to paint for the next 24 years
This is not rendering it's pure art quick question I had my house plastered a few years back unfortunately in some areas the paint is chalky any advice will be really nice
Hello my friend thanks for watching and commenting, hard to say with out seeing could be a poor mix ir to much lime... some lime renders can be soft, is it dusty in spots crumbly that could be a part that dried to fast before finishing
Thank you so much for your advice I really appreciate you taking time to reply god bless you my dear friend you definitely gained another subscriber
@@tanveerkhan9221so glad it has helped some mate are you going to try paint it up? and appreciate you subscribing your support means a tonne :)
Oh, sorry I forgot to say....so many cowboys in Australia...they pick up a trowel and call themselves plasterers....lol....
it sure is a hard trade and can take time too pick it up well I had a mate dong building work over there he was illegal and ended up kicked out but apparently he worked for another builder and they had that much work on the guy just gave him 50% of it and made him his own boss doing his own thing he is supposed to b4e a very good builder all the same
Great work dicky
Hey whats up Doc :) thanks for watching and commenting much appreciated mate :)
Dumb question.
Is this suppose to turn the walls into a modern thing or was this supposed to reinforce the brick walls?...
for sure to tidy it up and make it more modern mate but will add more weather protection and no doubt sone strength ... i think this house was fired up after the war things are up and down and in and out a lot
Are you bridging the dpc , I can’t really see, obviously you wouldnt do that, would be great to do a video on , why you shouldn’t bridge a damp proof course👍🏻
The ground here is level with inside you can see it on the acrylic where the base of the house disappears but even at that there is even new builds done straight to the ground and dont have any rising damp but yes a base/plinth or bell cast would help stop/slow rising damp and again depending who we talk to others dont believe in rising damp
Have you used an external render bead? I never saw
Hi Clarkey mate only bead was a little stop bead on one wall above the roof on lead, I prefer to go with out beads old skool :)
plus acrylic render to be laid on after I rub this up, have that video on all ready but acryic render video should be Sunday
💪🏽👊🏽🙏🏽
@paulrhodes5931 thanks for the mate 👍
Sand and cement should be layed right to left
whys that
👏👏🙌🏼❤️
Thanks shelley
Add lime to all cement.
Do you?
Great Video as ever mate. Would you be up for doing an interview on my 'Ask The Plasterer' Live Stream in about 6 weeks time? Would be great to have you on the show. Let me know. Eric 😀
been trying to do a livestream here but always seem to run out of time mate but yes would be up for that man
@@macplastering will be in touch soon mate via email
Sound mate
Hi I'm a girl therefore I don't know wtf I'm doing. Basically, my garage brisk walls have this render cement thing on it but its coming off, it's also painted white and full of moss. As I was powerwashing to get rid of the moss, the cement bits started to come off too. I'm ok with that I just wanna make sure it's OK, I don't wanna destroy my garage wall. Ideally I could take all the cement off with he jet watsh, would that be ok??
Hard to say without seeing it but if the joints in the brick are ok then power wash it all off for sure but if you think that it will damage the joint then chipping off by hand would be safe
Please don’t blame being slow on being a “girl “. Really????
@@marilynarter7484 Who are you calling slow?
@@venusinfurs2336 does it even matter. Just another “girl “
I had a whole brick wall rendered, with 5 years it had blown and peeled off, never again
Shame that mate. what mix did they use what prep did they do ? had you seen the work they done before you went with them? we have done rendering on brick that is still looking brilliant years later one the oldest i remember is a bar in Belfast over brick and still looks as good as the day it was done been painted 2 diffrent colours from then that i have noticed going past, this job must be some 15 years old now was smooth render with lines cut into it and big walls not small facing the road , wind , rain and frost but yes every plasterer do things diffrent and then again I have seen people spend thousand on cars brand new and they have problems or 100s on washing machines and mobile phones that dont last but a few months after the years guarantee is up yet no one seems to complain about that makes you think the pressure on plasterers to do well is more than that of multi million some times billions worth company's yet their reputations seem to stay with them but plasterers is only as good as their last job or worst job.. I myself wish and try to make every job i do look as good as possible but even more so last as long as possible I have lost money doing things buckles and braces. Sorry for the big response and thanks for watching and commenting with your experience Matt mate
No mesh no bell beads no render beads, will be good for a few years 😅
@seanoxborough5830 no mesh needed unless lose or cracks but then they should be tackled a different road no base wanted by owner also where you you put it as the grounds higher than inside but thanks for commenting
@seanoxborough5830 just noticed you also worried about not rendering beads is strange do you think they are superior?
You need to get the red render-grip, it’s so consistent in holding the background and an extra coat of waterproof on that red brick 🧱 before the scratch
Can you render over it same day ?
@@macplastering all depends on suction, but never tried it, it paints on like a dream and no mess compared to the thistle bond etc for indoor use it’s much creamier and at least you have a bit of grip with it when you’re going over smooth red brick or smooth concrete heads etc, week worth it if you can get an hour and get it painted on the day or a couple of days before chum. Once it’s on and set it’s never coming off anything it’s that strong
@@EO-zu5uz Might give it a go some time mate did use sbr on a smooth steel head it took really well so hard to look past it
Yeah it’s just that the render grip takes away any sliding on anything smooth, plus it nearly holds together whatever you put it over especially when you were making up those broken cills in one of your videos, you could build it out and nearly plant a bead into it it’s that creamy and sets like granite 😆
@@EO-zu5uz How much dose it run a buckets ?
You Should have meshed the cracks In the brickwork lol
Was no cracks in the bricks mate
What type of mesh would you have used mate? Metal or fibreglass
@@macplastering Weber mesh
@@slytub You like using that with sand and cement ?
@@macplastering only the cracks not the whole wall , EML be better
Honestly people stop doing this with the bricks, it's just a horrible finish, use weatherboard or do something nicer
You don't like this finish ?this is just the base coat ? the finish is going to be acrylic one of the nicest finishes outside there is. Have a look at the last video on this series. when you say weather board do you mean like a timber clad or stone clad ? and don't get me wrong sometimes brick is very nice but these where no laid well at all they are every shape all over the house very bad job even though done by old timers but looks like it was a rush job back then
Not professional I can teach him how to plaster
Thanks for the job offer mate will drop you a line if i run outa work
Who even talks like that?
Only a idiot would render over face brick, aside of that the pointing should have been removed in places to give the render a better key to the brick,give it 5 years and that will be full of hairline cracks which will trap rain water and lead to damp.
dont believe it as done the front 2 years previous and not one issue
Spot on Thomas. Ridiculous state of affairs when time honoured lime based plastering has been supplanted by short term cement based dodgy work practices.
@@rossmcleod7983 ok so put a time om this how ;long you say it will last ? no make a video of your lime job recent and we can compare in what 5 years ?