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Cometing is great name and a really good way to describe and see the contamination.....there are way too many to pick off too thats really bad . what a shame, well I hope they fix it for you.
Please consider a show about the least and less expensive options for those of us in the early hobby stages. I enjoy your content, and always learn something new! Keep it up!
@@CurrentlyRockhounding yes I have invested in the Vevor facetting machine with the 6 in discs, and what do you know I am seeing the same thing on nearly all of the diamond discs. I think if one tickles the diamond discs with whatever you are cutting, without using too much pressure, ample lubrication etc. then maybe they last longer, but being a beginner I soon started to grind away rather forcefully on some hard jasper from my back yard and soon I began noticing heavy scratches and I found the source being those spots on the disc, just like you showed. The entire set of all the 6 in diamond disks is not too expensive so i will order a new set, no problem and it being the chance that I am responsible for the contamination, I will take care better and observe. Thanks for the info!
This is a frequently discussed topic in faceting as well. Toppers are generally poo-pooed at 1200 grit or finer (though I often use a 1200 topper). My 600 resin lap leaves a much better finish than my 600 topper. If these are new toppers, then you've got to work through the break-in period where you'll ALWAYS get a bigger scratches on the toppers initially. I've used agate and sapphire to grind away at or break out those big grains. Like you said, mesh is a size range, not a specific size, so just because there are larger grains in there doesn't necessarily mean it's contaminated. For some grit classification standards, up to 10% of grains can be outside of the threshold range, so just because it's a 1200 grit/ 10-20 micrometer threshold range, doesn't mean there won't be grains upwards of 30 or 50 micrometers in there. Still, your lap in particular really sucked!
And this is why it took us 8 hours to polish a rock! I’m really glad you tested this! Thank you! I thought we were crazy because we kept getting scratches on our rocks! And yes, this was super helpful! Definitely shed some light!
I got a premium 220 grit eight inch wheel on a new Titan a couple of years ago and it dug stones up at about the 30 grit level. They replaced the wheel and the new one was worse. Apparently the problem often is that if the diamond is if the mis applied it can clump and ruin the wheel or disc. Your contamination looks different , it looks like 80 grit or coarser diamond as you stated. I have used a lot of diamond wheels and discs from the time they were first marketed for lapidary use many years ago and these problems were unheard of then. Nice warning to folks.
This man puts in the work and comes back with receipts. The factories that produce these toppers don't seem to concerned with cleanliness. It's impossible to pass an 80 grit diamond through a 1,200 grit sieve. The only way to use higher grit toppers is to find the area without contamination, often detectable by ear. They are a source of frustration, then again so are the prices of sintered diamond laps.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding By excluding the possibility of larger grits passing through the sieve, that's what I was eluding to. Good to hear your replacements were better quality.
They might not have had the information published when you adopted the machine, but when I bought mine there was an explanation for the two different types of disks, how the "grit" isn't the full story, and the need to overlap with resin discs and ultimately finish on resin. Your video demonstrates this a lot better tho. Like flex wheels, the resin flexes so I think proud diamonds or mis-sized diamonds are less impactful. I think the electroplated discs are only meant for sanding/shaping and you probably dont need much finer than 600 unless precision is important
That was a really surprising turn of events! I knew the resin gave a superior shine, but not that much better than the diamond electroplate. And to have your disc contaminated by the factory and having diamonds that size on your 3000 disc is really disappointing. It's one thing if you (meaning the consumer), accidentally contaminate your disc with say agate dust and your cab crumbles on you, and it left larger pieces of agate on your disc that you didn't rinse off completely and can scratch the next thing you try to polish on your lap. But this is a factory error and is surprising, to say the least! But I can't say without the carpet wheel and the cerium oxide, that cab would never have shined! I'm really quite shocked at the difference! And in my opinion, the cost difference is minimal compared to the shine! It is worth the money to buy the resin discs! Thanks Jared. It was really enlightening. I will be very interested in what Hi-Tech has to say about it! They need better quality control! You always have the most informative, and honest videos! Thanks again Jared!❤
This was one of your finest learned a lot. Ordered Rock Treasures of Oregon, what a gorgeous book! I think we will be headed to Oregon next summer. Thank you for your wonderful channel.
Jerod, Saw this vlog today and wanted to comment publicly on your findings. Diamond, especially what is being electroplated on laps is often "dirty", a somewhat wry, disappointing description which can mean several things. Firstly, as you discovered, there can be absolutely HUGE diamond pieces which should not be there! That was a pretty green-looking diamond btw. But most of the "comets" as you aptly described are actually coming from a "cluster" of diamonds which were part of the particular grit size on the label. But I digress even more. Diamond powders are run through a process which is supposed to provide an "average" particle size. That said, the diamond grits can be +/- from the avg. stated size. However, another factor is crucial to diamond powder production. That is the cleaning process. Cleaning involves the removal of very large particles, as well as foreign interferences, like oxygen-laden moisture. Diamond likes to be with oils more than it does with water. And in the presence of H2O, diamond will do the dreaded, "Agglomeration" of particles. That is they bind together in "Clusters." I suspect that most of your Comets are tiny clusters of diamond, which are leaving oxide streaks from your stones you are trying to polish. 1200 grit size seems to be a very difficult mesh to clean properly. Because over the years, I've heard many more complaints about this grit size of laps than any other! Of course, we cannot say, that all lap manufacturers are using the same sources for any given diamond grit. As there are numerous suppliers. So the user can only try to complain and ask for replacements when warranted. Now Electroplated vs. Resin-based laps: This is kind of a neat subject. You know the slogan by DeBeers, "Diamonds are forever?" Well I think we all know, that when we abrade rocks and minerals, some ions must be eliminated from the rocks in order for a polish to appear. But the fact is, the same thing is happening with the diamond/oxides. So both polish and stone must give up ions and fall into your drip pan to be discarded. Sad, but true! So even diamond particles are constantly being modified by the rocks we want polished. When you get a new diamond lap, it cuts like a buzz saw right? This is due to those hilly nubs that you can see under the scope. But eventually, they get worn down into a "crew-cut", or a flat top. So we press harder and harder, hoping the worn diamond will cut better. However, this usually causes fracturing of the stones, which breaks off swarf, which gets in the path of the rock you're trying to polish, and bingo! You have some nasty subsurface damage. So you fall back to the previous, coarser grits to remove it. It's a vicious circle! Personally, I like Resin-based laps more because they contain embedded diamond. And as it wears, new particles are revealed. The resins aren't generally hard enough to resist constant abrasion. So the worn particles usually take their "leave" from the lap, and let newly revealed particles take over the job of polishing. And as an added bonus, Resin-based laps generally give way better performance even at the pre-polishing level of 1200-grit. In fact, everything from 1200-resin on up to even 50k will always outshine their electroplated counterparts! As to how long Resin laps will last in comparison to metal-electroplating, I think most users will agree, that it's the performance that counts! I've marvel at the users who still think that "diamonds are forever!" But those of us who have discovered, as you have, that Resin-diamond pre-polishing laps, and oxide finishes will never ever look back!
Really enjoyed this video. I own Hi Tech 8" Flat Lap,it cost a fortune to get shipped to the UK and then the dreaded customs charges. I did a lot of research first but found I didn't have a lot of options as here in the UK there is a prolific shortage of lapidary equipment for sale and virtually none being made. I am now at the point of replacing discs and again no one in UK makes this stuff, absolutely crazy. So will need to import again at huge costs. I work with both the diamond discs to start with and then move on to the resin.
I had the exact same problem with my diamond discs. I was so frustrated, I redid thundereggs multiple times! Once I bought resin discs, it made a huge difference, and cut my polishing time way down.
Class is in session! Best rock and mineral videos on YT 💯 Thank you for always sharing your knowledge and experience -- I always learn so much in your videos, they're so dynamic and fact packed.
Wow-interesting!!! I have been wanting to fabricate a cerium oxide wheel setup for a while now.Thank you for sharing some of the info that I need! Another phase of this is-What do you use for a motor?It seems like this kind of system is hard to find.I see Jason at Black Opal Direct with a vertical wheel,but they seem to be hard to find.Hope you can cover that issue someday!
Really appreciate your comparison videos. I put together an 8in flat lap and can't decide which disks are better. Affordability is also a factor. I value your videos very much!
What a great video! I love how you put the time in to show us this testing method. Clearly, the cometing is a factor, one which I've encountered myself. I'm actually considering swithing up to resin, as it's the clear winner. I've noticed I've been getting better polished specimens with the velcro pads opposed to the diamond discs...🤔
My 1200 from hi tech has the exact same failure mode, though a little less coarse! I haven't liked the electroplated laps as much as resin anyway, even setting that aside. I'm guessing the resin's pads do a little buffing as you go, which reduces cloudiness and makes the current scratches so much more visible to me, plus I get a little bit of squish to keep from leaving facets on the domes so easily. On the other hand, the resin loves to hang on to chips, and sometimes I have to go wash everything out and start again after it trashes a piece if I caught an edge at some point.
Sorry the test went awry, but it did give us good information on contamination. I will have to give my laps a close look when I receive them. Thanks for the great information. Comets sound as descriptive as any thing else. I'll have to steal it. Be happy, safe and stay health.😷⚒
My theory is that the diamond discs cut precisely but initial cuts whereas the diamond laps, the compound that the diamond grit is in. Helps to buff it. Does that make sense?
Great info! It’s interesting, in the magnified photos the 1,200 grit looks almost finer than the 3,000. Would you say that the diamond discs are more aggressive compared to the resin? Even thought they are the same grit rating? How was it contaminated? Was it from you working stones or during the manufacturing process? I appreciate the info as someday I will finally be buying a flat lap.
I'm confused you prefer the diamond disc finish over the resin disc finish ? Blamimg that bad diamond finish on the contaminated 1200 disc? Are the resin backers glued to the resin disc? What are the sponge pads they sell for, does it make the flat lap more like a flex wheel on a cab machine? Great content as always!
The resin discs are clearly better for the finer grits than the electroplated diamond discs, but they also produce an acceptable finish when buffed out from what I have seen with hard material like agates. The poor finished one done with the diamond discs is because of the contaminated 1200 discs, and if you look past those deep scratched, it does have a nice finish. I thought I made that pretty clear. I have never used those sponge pads, but the idea is that when you make a cab with them, you have less flat spot, kind of like a foam backed cabbing wheel.
So this is what I was talking about on the last comment it was just a coincidence I scrolled down a few of my recommended videos and hear this is LOL. Is it crazy for me to suggest putting Velcro on that first disc that you put down then cutting a piece of 2 * 10 - 1 x 10 I can't tell how high that nut is but yeah cut a board the fit those disks then drill a hole big enough to fit over that nut but not drill all the way through so your surface goes all the way across. You're going to put Velcro on the top and bottom of that and will set over the nut on that first plate velcroed into place velcro the bottom of your actual polishing discs and put on to the plate extension you just made and you could use the full surface. You'll still have the hole in the center but you'll be able to put bigger rocks on there. You'll just have to move them around. You'll have to probably raise the splash guard up but you could do that with some flashing I know you have the skills. Yeah I'm getting ready to head to the creek do some rock hounding or bottles or fossils. You guys have a good day
Sitting behind my keyboard....it seems like diamonds would be best for heavy removal and shaping. Unless they get a lot finer than 3000 I wouldn't use them for finish work. Interesting comparison. The contaminated disc is a bummer but also a good heads up for everyone.
Have you ever tried to adhere a polishing disc to both sides of a flat lap mounting plate? Wondering why not?? Plates are expensive and if you could get dual usage… just sayin’ thanks
This is a subject I've been thinking about a lot, so thank you for making this vid! Next purchase will be the diamonds! I have the same flat lap but have an issue with my gear. Two of my resin discs were stacked on top of each other, slightly askew, and now they're stuck together! Do you have any tips on how to get them apart without damaging the backing plates? I figure ill have to replace the pads, but oh well. If i can reuse the plates, that will save some cash, haha. TIA :)
That was quite a bummer that the disc was contaminated like it was; it makes me wonder how it passed quality assurance, and if it was the only one, or if a batch got produced like that. Hmm....
I don't think there is a quality check on these kinds of products anymore since they are so cheap. They send them out and hope they are all good and replace them if they are not.
That is the case with course laps but less so the case with finer laps and even if that wouldn't have helped here, how much break in time is required? Isn't several minutes with a hard agate enough? It is in my opinion. If a lap is contaminated with courser diamonds from the factory, there is nothing you can do about it other than seek a return.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding Yeah, I made the comment before I saw the part in the video were you realized you had a contaminated disc🤡 One thing I was curious about was the speed of polishing!? Is there a difference in efficiency between either product ?
Bummer about that 1200 disc ruining your testing. I'm glad they replaced it quickly. I think you need to repeat the test with the new disc though. I'm surprised by the dullness of the plate compared to the resin of similar grit. I was wondering if, when it came time to polish, the Cerium would shine them both up quite well. Thanks for the content/subject as it gave me something to think about with my polishing.
I have a number resin discs that I never stuck down to the backer plate and I just swap out the disks using one backer. It seems to work but I may be taking a quality hit that I don't realize is caused by that. (I'm not always happy with my polishing results. I often find left over scratches). Also how do you feel about the "Tech-11" polishing pads charged with different grit diamond pastes?
I doubt that's really an issue, changing the pads between the same master lap disc. As for the Tech-11 pads, I do not like them at all, and have gotten way better results with my homemade polishing disc which carpet and cerium oxide. I have a video called "All-U-Need Upgrade // Hi-Tech Diamond Flat Lap Converted Into A Carpet Wheel!" which you might like on that subject.
Hi Tech diamond plates are hot garbage if you try to do anything other than coarse grinding. I have a 600 that has a “hot spot” on it that I have to avoid or else it will absolutely chew up anything in its path.
Did you enjoy this video and find it to be informative? You can help ensure that more videos just like this get made by supporting the project on Patreon. www.patreon.com/currentlyrockhounding
Cometing is great name and a really good way to describe and see the contamination.....there are way too many to pick off too thats really bad . what a shame, well I hope they fix it for you.
Please consider a show about the least and less expensive options for those of us in the early hobby stages. I enjoy your content, and always learn something new! Keep it up!
Is there something specific you had in mind?
@@CurrentlyRockhounding yes I have invested in the Vevor facetting machine with the 6 in discs, and what do you know I am seeing the same thing on nearly all of the diamond discs. I think if one tickles the diamond discs with whatever you are cutting, without using too much pressure, ample lubrication etc. then maybe they last longer, but being a beginner I soon started to grind away rather forcefully on some hard jasper from my back yard and soon I began noticing heavy scratches and I found the source being those spots on the disc, just like you showed. The entire set of all the 6 in diamond disks is not too expensive so i will order a new set, no problem and it being the chance that I am responsible for the contamination, I will take care better and observe. Thanks for the info!
This is a frequently discussed topic in faceting as well. Toppers are generally poo-pooed at 1200 grit or finer (though I often use a 1200 topper). My 600 resin lap leaves a much better finish than my 600 topper. If these are new toppers, then you've got to work through the break-in period where you'll ALWAYS get a bigger scratches on the toppers initially. I've used agate and sapphire to grind away at or break out those big grains.
Like you said, mesh is a size range, not a specific size, so just because there are larger grains in there doesn't necessarily mean it's contaminated. For some grit classification standards, up to 10% of grains can be outside of the threshold range, so just because it's a 1200 grit/ 10-20 micrometer threshold range, doesn't mean there won't be grains upwards of 30 or 50 micrometers in there. Still, your lap in particular really sucked!
I feel pretty well-read on these subjects, but I never knew until now how many people have had issues with these fine grit plated laps.
And this is why it took us 8 hours to polish a rock! I’m really glad you tested this! Thank you! I thought we were crazy because we kept getting scratches on our rocks! And yes, this was super helpful! Definitely shed some light!
I'm glad you found it helpful.
I got a premium 220 grit eight inch wheel on a new Titan a couple of years ago and it dug stones up at about the 30 grit level. They replaced the wheel and the new one was worse. Apparently the problem often is that if the diamond is if the mis applied it can clump and ruin the wheel or disc. Your contamination looks different , it looks like 80 grit or coarser diamond as you stated. I have used a lot of diamond wheels and discs from the time they were first marketed for lapidary use many years ago and these problems were unheard of then. Nice warning to folks.
It would seem that the focus these days is on the production of cheaper and cheaper products vs. the diamond products of years past.
This man puts in the work and comes back with receipts. The factories that produce these toppers don't seem to concerned with cleanliness. It's impossible to pass an 80 grit diamond through a 1,200 grit sieve. The only way to use higher grit toppers is to find the area without contamination, often detectable by ear. They are a source of frustration, then again so are the prices of sintered diamond laps.
I really think the issue here is just a dirty factory, but at least they replaced the laps and there are no issues with the new one.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding By excluding the possibility of larger grits passing through the sieve, that's what I was eluding to. Good to hear your replacements were better quality.
They might not have had the information published when you adopted the machine, but when I bought mine there was an explanation for the two different types of disks, how the "grit" isn't the full story, and the need to overlap with resin discs and ultimately finish on resin. Your video demonstrates this a lot better tho. Like flex wheels, the resin flexes so I think proud diamonds or mis-sized diamonds are less impactful. I think the electroplated discs are only meant for sanding/shaping and you probably dont need much finer than 600 unless precision is important
That was a really surprising turn of events! I knew the resin gave a superior shine, but not that much better than the diamond electroplate. And to have your disc contaminated by the factory and having diamonds that size on your 3000 disc is really disappointing. It's one thing if you (meaning the consumer), accidentally contaminate your disc with say agate dust and your cab crumbles on you, and it left larger pieces of agate on your disc that you didn't rinse off completely and can scratch the next thing you try to polish on your lap. But this is a factory error and is surprising, to say the least! But I can't say without the carpet wheel and the cerium oxide, that cab would never have shined! I'm really quite shocked at the difference! And in my opinion, the cost difference is minimal compared to the shine! It is worth the money to buy the resin discs!
Thanks Jared. It was really enlightening. I will be very interested in what Hi-Tech has to say about it! They need better quality control!
You always have the most informative, and honest videos! Thanks again Jared!❤
Always down for a little comparison video. Staying informed and up to date.
This was one of your finest learned a lot. Ordered Rock Treasures of Oregon, what a gorgeous book! I think we will be headed to Oregon next summer. Thank you for your wonderful channel.
Jerod,
Saw this vlog today and wanted to comment publicly on your findings. Diamond, especially what is being electroplated on laps is often "dirty", a somewhat wry, disappointing description which can mean several things. Firstly, as you discovered, there can be absolutely HUGE diamond pieces which should not be there! That was a pretty green-looking diamond btw.
But most of the "comets" as you aptly described are actually coming from a "cluster" of diamonds which were part of the particular grit size on the label. But I digress even more. Diamond powders are run through a process which is supposed to provide an "average" particle size. That said, the diamond grits can be +/- from the avg. stated size.
However, another factor is crucial to diamond powder production. That is the cleaning process. Cleaning involves the removal of very large particles, as well as foreign interferences, like oxygen-laden moisture. Diamond likes to be with oils more than it does with water. And in the presence of H2O, diamond will do the dreaded, "Agglomeration" of particles. That is they bind together in "Clusters." I suspect that most of your Comets are tiny clusters of diamond, which are leaving oxide streaks from your stones you are trying to polish.
1200 grit size seems to be a very difficult mesh to clean properly. Because over the years, I've heard many more complaints about this grit size of laps than any other! Of course, we cannot say, that all lap manufacturers are using the same sources for any given diamond grit. As there are numerous suppliers. So the user can only try to complain and ask for replacements when warranted.
Now Electroplated vs. Resin-based laps:
This is kind of a neat subject. You know the slogan by DeBeers, "Diamonds are forever?" Well I think we all know, that when we abrade rocks and minerals, some ions must be eliminated from the rocks in order for a polish to appear. But the fact is, the same thing is happening with the diamond/oxides. So both polish and stone must give up ions and fall into your drip pan to be discarded. Sad, but true! So even diamond particles are constantly being modified by the rocks we want polished.
When you get a new diamond lap, it cuts like a buzz saw right? This is due to those hilly nubs that you can see under the scope. But eventually, they get worn down into a "crew-cut", or a flat top. So we press harder and harder, hoping the worn diamond will cut better. However, this usually causes fracturing of the stones, which breaks off swarf, which gets in the path of the rock you're trying to polish, and bingo! You have some nasty subsurface damage. So you fall back to the previous, coarser grits to remove it. It's a vicious circle!
Personally, I like Resin-based laps more because they contain embedded diamond. And as it wears, new particles are revealed. The resins aren't generally hard enough to resist constant abrasion. So the worn particles usually take their "leave" from the lap, and let newly revealed particles take over the job of polishing.
And as an added bonus, Resin-based laps generally give way better performance even at the pre-polishing level of 1200-grit. In fact, everything from 1200-resin on up to even 50k will always outshine their electroplated counterparts! As to how long Resin laps will last in comparison to metal-electroplating, I think most users will agree, that it's the performance that counts!
I've marvel at the users who still think that "diamonds are forever!" But those of us who have discovered, as you have, that Resin-diamond pre-polishing laps, and oxide finishes will never ever look back!
First off, thank you for your insight into this.
So why do you think there are more issues with the 1200 grit than any other?
Experience. Time after time, complaints are almost always about steel electro-plated diamond. And from personal experience, this is also so.
Really enjoyed this video. I own Hi Tech 8" Flat Lap,it cost a fortune to get shipped to the UK and then the dreaded customs charges. I did a lot of research first but found I didn't have a lot of options as here in the UK there is a prolific shortage of lapidary equipment for sale and virtually none being made. I am now at the point of replacing discs and again no one in UK makes this stuff, absolutely crazy. So will need to import again at huge costs. I work with both the diamond discs to start with and then move on to the resin.
Another very informative video!! Thank you Jared !!!😎
I'm glad you liked it.
I had the exact same problem with my diamond discs. I was so frustrated, I redid thundereggs multiple times!
Once I bought resin discs, it made a huge difference, and cut my polishing time way down.
I have been hearing something similar from many people now.
Class is in session! Best rock and mineral videos on YT 💯 Thank you for always sharing your knowledge and experience -- I always learn so much in your videos, they're so dynamic and fact packed.
Thank you very much!
Wow-interesting!!! I have been wanting to fabricate a cerium oxide wheel setup for a while now.Thank you for sharing some of the info that I need! Another phase of this is-What do you use for a motor?It seems like this kind of system is hard to find.I see Jason at Black Opal Direct with a vertical wheel,but they seem to be hard to find.Hope you can cover that issue someday!
Interesting process crazy high grit. Fun.
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
You are very welcome, thanks for sharing the great content it’s really fun and informative ✌️🤟🏻
Really appreciate your comparison videos. I put together an 8in flat lap and can't decide which disks are better. Affordability is also a factor. I value your videos very much!
Thank you very much!
What a great video! I love how you put the time in to show us this testing method. Clearly, the cometing is a factor, one which I've encountered myself. I'm actually considering swithing up to resin, as it's the clear winner.
I've noticed I've been getting better polished specimens with the velcro pads opposed to the diamond discs...🤔
My 1200 from hi tech has the exact same failure mode, though a little less coarse! I haven't liked the electroplated laps as much as resin anyway, even setting that aside. I'm guessing the resin's pads do a little buffing as you go, which reduces cloudiness and makes the current scratches so much more visible to me, plus I get a little bit of squish to keep from leaving facets on the domes so easily. On the other hand, the resin loves to hang on to chips, and sometimes I have to go wash everything out and start again after it trashes a piece if I caught an edge at some point.
Without the test you'd never have known. I think resins maybe the way to go. Looking forward to future testing of more reasonable flat lap disks.
I agree.
Sorry the test went awry, but it did give us good information on contamination. I will have to give my laps a close look when I receive them. Thanks for the great information. Comets sound as descriptive as any thing else. I'll have to steal it. Be happy, safe and stay health.😷⚒
Hi tech has exemplary customer service! Do you know how the disc became contaminated? Do you think it came from the manufacturer that way?
It was contaminated during the manufacturing process.
My theory is that the diamond discs cut precisely but initial cuts whereas the diamond laps, the compound that the diamond grit is in. Helps to buff it. Does that make sense?
Great info! It’s interesting, in the magnified photos the 1,200 grit looks almost finer than the 3,000. Would you say that the diamond discs are more aggressive compared to the resin? Even thought they are the same grit rating? How was it contaminated? Was it from you working stones or during the manufacturing process? I appreciate the info as someday I will finally be buying a flat lap.
They are way more aggressive than the resin discs. The contamination came from the manufacturing process.
Interesting!
I'm confused you prefer the diamond disc finish over the resin disc finish ? Blamimg that bad diamond finish on the contaminated 1200 disc? Are the resin backers glued to the resin disc? What are the sponge pads they sell for, does it make the flat lap more like a flex wheel on a cab machine? Great content as always!
The resin discs are clearly better for the finer grits than the electroplated diamond discs, but they also produce an acceptable finish when buffed out from what I have seen with hard material like agates.
The poor finished one done with the diamond discs is because of the contaminated 1200 discs, and if you look past those deep scratched, it does have a nice finish. I thought I made that pretty clear.
I have never used those sponge pads, but the idea is that when you make a cab with them, you have less flat spot, kind of like a foam backed cabbing wheel.
So this is what I was talking about on the last comment it was just a coincidence I scrolled down a few of my recommended videos and hear this is LOL. Is it crazy for me to suggest putting Velcro on that first disc that you put down then cutting a piece of 2 * 10 - 1 x 10 I can't tell how high that nut is but yeah cut a board the fit those disks then drill a hole big enough to fit over that nut but not drill all the way through so your surface goes all the way across. You're going to put Velcro on the top and bottom of that and will set over the nut on that first plate velcroed into place velcro the bottom of your actual polishing discs and put on to the plate extension you just made and you could use the full surface. You'll still have the hole in the center but you'll be able to put bigger rocks on there. You'll just have to move them around. You'll have to probably raise the splash guard up but you could do that with some flashing I know you have the skills. Yeah I'm getting ready to head to the creek do some rock hounding or bottles or fossils. You guys have a good day
Sitting behind my keyboard....it seems like diamonds would be best for heavy removal and shaping. Unless they get a lot finer than 3000 I wouldn't use them for finish work.
Interesting comparison. The contaminated disc is a bummer but also a good heads up for everyone.
That's really how these should be used I think, just stick with the course grits.
Have you ever tried to adhere a polishing disc to both sides of a flat lap mounting plate? Wondering why not?? Plates are expensive and if you could get dual usage… just sayin’ thanks
I have not tried that.
Its not like the disk spins on the arbor. The arbor spins with the plate screwed to it. I may try it. What’s the harm. Try low velocity first. Lol
This is a subject I've been thinking about a lot, so thank you for making this vid! Next purchase will be the diamonds! I have the same flat lap but have an issue with my gear. Two of my resin discs were stacked on top of each other, slightly askew, and now they're stuck together! Do you have any tips on how to get them apart without damaging the backing plates? I figure ill have to replace the pads, but oh well. If i can reuse the plates, that will save some cash, haha. TIA :)
You can warm up the laps with a hairdryer and peel them a part, and they should be good to reuse them.
Awesome!! Thank you so much!!
That was quite a bummer that the disc was contaminated like it was; it makes me wonder how it passed quality assurance, and if it was the only one, or if a batch got produced like that. Hmm....
I don't think there is a quality check on these kinds of products anymore since they are so cheap. They send them out and hope they are all good and replace them if they are not.
Maybe you need to brake in the electro discs a bit before hand?
That is the case with course laps but less so the case with finer laps and even if that wouldn't have helped here, how much break in time is required? Isn't several minutes with a hard agate enough? It is in my opinion.
If a lap is contaminated with courser diamonds from the factory, there is nothing you can do about it other than seek a return.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding Yeah, I made the comment before I saw the part in the video were you realized you had a contaminated disc🤡
One thing I was curious about was the speed of polishing!? Is there a difference in efficiency between either product ?
@@mitchellmadarish5921 That's a good question and something I haven't tested but I will.
Bummer about that 1200 disc ruining your testing. I'm glad they replaced it quickly. I think you need to repeat the test with the new disc though. I'm surprised by the dullness of the plate compared to the resin of similar grit. I was wondering if, when it came time to polish, the Cerium would shine them both up quite well. Thanks for the content/subject as it gave me something to think about with my polishing.
I was also surprised by the dullness of them, It's almost as if they have a really fine matte finish to them.
What type of saw blade was used to cut the cabs?
We use sintered diamond blades.
@@CurrentlyRockhounding Thank you! Did you use thin or thick sintered?
@@kellyvb333 These were cut with an HSP sintered blade. I have a number of cutting videos on the channel if you would like to check them out.
Puntastic title there😉
I was wondering if anyone was going to pick up on that! :)
I have a number resin discs that I never stuck down to the backer plate and I just swap out the disks using one backer. It seems to work but I may be taking a quality hit that I don't realize is caused by that. (I'm not always happy with my polishing results. I often find left over scratches). Also how do you feel about the "Tech-11" polishing pads charged with different grit diamond pastes?
I doubt that's really an issue, changing the pads between the same master lap disc.
As for the Tech-11 pads, I do not like them at all, and have gotten way better results with my homemade polishing disc which carpet and cerium oxide.
I have a video called "All-U-Need Upgrade // Hi-Tech Diamond Flat Lap Converted Into A Carpet Wheel!" which you might like on that subject.
Holy Cats! I missed that video of the Flat Lap carpet wheel. Thank You! I am going to order parts tonight. @@CurrentlyRockhounding
Great examples! Fantastic video. Learned a lot. I run both. Need to pay more attention.
Hi Tech diamond plates are hot garbage if you try to do anything other than coarse grinding. I have a 600 that has a “hot spot” on it that I have to avoid or else it will absolutely chew up anything in its path.
What laps would you recommend then? Did you contact them for a return or replacement?