I used a muzzle brake on my 6.5 Creedmoor that was angled back. From the muzzle blast hitting my face I actually developed a flinch from the little 6.5. When I purchased a 28 Nosler I ordered your four port muzzle brake the same day. Absolutely no flinch when using your excellently engineered muzzle brake and the recoil from the 28 Nosler didn’t seem to be anymore than the recoil of the 6.5. After the first day shooting the 28 I ordered your three port brake for the 6.5 and the flinch is gone. Thank you Mark, I love your bipod system and bag riders, they are on both of my precision rifles.
Love your engineering / logical approach as always - also the reminder of Newtons 1st Law and a delve into fluid dynamics... Keep it up - always something to learn from you!
I came to the same conclusion as you. I want equal forces up and down. Just out to the side. The first brake I built was a three port brake like the first one you showed. I drilled two 1/8" ports in the top angling up @ 20°, even with the front wall. After watching your slow mo comparison, I think I'm going to tap the holes and plug them to see if I notice a difference. I do get some bounce.
Always learning from your videos, outstanding explanation of what happens with MB’s!!! Had me laughing hard when you said, “I’m not telling them to suck eggs”! Love it!!!
Awesome stuff Mark. I like to remind people that there is a column of air inside the barrel between the bullet and the muzzle. When you fire the bullet, THAT column of air also has to move out of the way before the bullet comes out, so yes absolutely the dynamics of the muzzle break will affect zero, as well as the harmonics affecting the zero, and this is what can cause muzzle break pull-off where an inconsistent positioning of the rifle (such as sitting on a bag one day, and a bipod the next day) changes the point of impact. Fantastic work! Keep it up!
Mark, you definitely shoot rifles that you have re-engineered from one end to the other. I was somewhat surprised that you didn't show a Vias type brake to start out your comparisons with. I say this because they, if my memory's correct, were the first style of brake that was made. Great video, as always!
I had an expensive experience with a muzzle brake. Zeroed in on the bonnet of my car! Then realised those lovely sideways gases had cracked my windscreen! 🙈🙈 what a bellend!
Thanks Mark. Choosing a muzzle brake is one of the most confusing things a person can try to do... Lots of choices on the market... Some understanding of the principles involved helps make choosing a bit easier. For the folks who may not have a threaded barrel, clamp-on brakes are an option. I was skeptical but ordered one for my sporter barreled rifle. It looked a bit hokey but it worked really well.
Interesting take on the effects of the vertical angle on some ports... you are making me rethink my choice of brake as I am seeing a great reduction in recoil but more vertical bounce that I don't remember before.
I figured some of this out on my stock lithgow 105 break . Had significant push down and bounce . And your break worked to fix that mark :-) and was 1 MOA higher POI so that’s the proof in the pudding . Great video mark ;-) I feel the end of the video was directed at me lol 😂
I had a muzzle brake with ports in the top. I don't think they helped to contropl muzzle jump, but what they did do was to release a puff of smoke which obscured the sighting of my rifle at the instant of trigger release.
Great video and a lot of info. I’m super excited I just ordered your 4 port for my 300 Rum that’s not threaded so I can go with the biggest threads possible. Cheers
Wish you would have been there when I was trying to explain to my gunsmith of why I had requested a custom-made muzzle break with 35 degree angle baffles and 13/16 treads. You would have explained way better than me. He could not compute because it was out of the norm and not was he was used to from the average customers and main stream knowledge.
Great video describing the forces on different brakes. On another note, I’ve watched your Nightforce NX8 reviews now and wonder if you can do a video on the illumination on those scopes. I think you’d be the first on UA-cam to actually do a video on what the illumination looks like between ffp and sfp reticles. Even Nightforce had nothing to send me besides their stock picture with a white background
If the rifle doesn't need a muzzle brake, don't put one on. Why people put muzzle brakes on small caliber rifles is a mystery to me. If you're shooting a magnum, a muzzle brake is almost a necessity but on a .223 Rem??? Mark is absolutely right about the effects a muzzle brake can have on accuracy and the rifle itself. If you're bouncing that muzzle up and down that is eventually going to stress the action and its mating surfaces to the stock.
great info as always, great work. i currently run the Strike Industries J-Comp V2 on AR platform and it works for me pretty well. i eventually would like to get something for the 7mag.
Thank You- QUES: I've watched 2 muzzle brake video's, and have Not heard you address Induced stresses, bore diameter growth, stress induced bore axis shift ALL Right AT the muzzle, induced in the threading process.. Must keep it "consistant" and is repeatable,, right? *** ALSO- is there an "almost" guaranteed process to thread a bbl, ***without permanently impacting "group size for the "worst!"?? I'll have to live with- for the better 😁😁😁 ***WHAT IS IT? * What should I look for in a gunsmith? Is there a ratio you use- IE: *** Barrel OD/Bore dia/= wall thickness ratio to recommend ok to thread? *** OR NOT threading? Or a barrel wall thickness ratio you look for AFTER threading?? THANK YOU.
Got me looking REAL closely at my fat bastard brake on my 300WM build.. excellent video, as always ----- “How to suck eggs”? No idea but I’m gonna use that..
To prevent the slight vertical movement caused by the arc the rifle travels due to the bipod moving backward during recoil, would a bag rider mounted up front (i.e. no bipod) be worth trying? In other words two bag riders. One in front and one in back.
Mark, I very rarely comment on anything. I am a car guy, and as of recently I've gone down the rabbit hole of being a gun guy too. I want to thank you and Sam for the interesting videos and I have found your information videos so beneficial to my perspective and knowledge base.. Keep up the outstanding work. If you're ever in the states(Ohio), Would be great to share a meal.
I really don’t get why people still make radial brakes. I can’t think of a single reason to use one -least recoil reduction -very loud -kicks up most dirt -hard to make (drilling 90 holes vs cutting 4 ports) -gas goes in front of scope
Question 1 what do you need ….. to do? Just like all the other options on YOUR rifle. More factual information to help us understand and make the best choice. Than you
My Volquartsen handgun has a muzzle break that only ports upwards. This stops 'muzzle flip' in speed shooting competitions, bearing in mind it's a 22lr with a 5.5 in barrel so not a lot of gas to push .
I used a muzzle brake on my 6.5 Creedmoor that was angled back. From the muzzle blast hitting my face I actually developed a flinch from the little 6.5. When I purchased a 28 Nosler I ordered your four port muzzle brake the same day. Absolutely no flinch when using your excellently engineered muzzle brake and the recoil from the 28 Nosler didn’t seem to be anymore than the recoil of the 6.5. After the first day shooting the 28 I ordered your three port brake for the 6.5 and the flinch is gone. Thank you Mark, I love your bipod system and bag riders, they are on both of my precision rifles.
Awesome, thanks Cory, Cheers and all the best.
Just like show-and-tell...you explain the physics of this stuff and then put action to your words. Thanks always works for me.
Cheers Man, thanks
Everything makes sense, just never thought of it all before. Very interesting. Great video, thanks
Cheers Chris, thanks
Love your engineering / logical approach as always - also the reminder of Newtons 1st Law and a delve into fluid dynamics... Keep it up - always something to learn from you!
Thanks Man, glad you like em, cheers
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Cheers
Always informative and interesting Mark & Sam . Having owned a .338 win mag I used to describe it as Kills from both ends 😄🦘
Lol, Cheers
Thank you for the videos and sharing your knowledge! Excellent.
Cheers Man, thanks
I came to the same conclusion as you. I want equal forces up and down. Just out to the side. The first brake I built was a three port brake like the first one you showed. I drilled two 1/8" ports in the top angling up @ 20°, even with the front wall. After watching your slow mo comparison, I think I'm going to tap the holes and plug them to see if I notice a difference. I do get some bounce.
Cheers
Always learning from your videos, outstanding explanation of what happens with MB’s!!! Had me laughing hard when you said, “I’m not telling them to suck eggs”! Love it!!!
Lol, cheers
Awesome stuff Mark. I like to remind people that there is a column of air inside the barrel between the bullet and the muzzle. When you fire the bullet, THAT column of air also has to move out of the way before the bullet comes out, so yes absolutely the dynamics of the muzzle break will affect zero, as well as the harmonics affecting the zero, and this is what can cause muzzle break pull-off where an inconsistent positioning of the rifle (such as sitting on a bag one day, and a bipod the next day) changes the point of impact. Fantastic work! Keep it up!
Thanks Jason, cheers Man,
Mark, you definitely shoot rifles that you have re-engineered from one end to the other. I was somewhat surprised that you didn't show a Vias type brake to start out your comparisons with. I say this because they, if my memory's correct, were the first style of brake that was made. Great video, as always!
Thanks Craig, and discussed radial brakes in other videos, but not something we use, Cheers
Appreciate you detailed explanation yet again. Thank you Mark.
Cheers Dave, thanks
Mark your videos are getting better all the time mate,,,,no words awesome 👏
Cheers Man, glad you liked, thanks
You made it sound so simple, even I understood it. Great informative video!
Cheers Mark, thanks
I had an expensive experience with a muzzle brake. Zeroed in on the bonnet of my car! Then realised those lovely sideways gases had cracked my windscreen! 🙈🙈 what a bellend!
We all learn form this stuff, sometimes has $ to it too, lol, Cheers
Thanks Mark. Choosing a muzzle brake is one of the most confusing things a person can try to do... Lots of choices on the market... Some understanding of the principles involved helps make choosing a bit easier.
For the folks who may not have a threaded barrel, clamp-on brakes are an option. I was skeptical but ordered one for my sporter barreled rifle. It looked a bit hokey but it worked really well.
Cheers Jack thanks
Kool slow motion of the muzzle break hero 👍
Glad you liked, Cheers
Interesting take on the effects of the vertical angle on some ports... you are making me rethink my choice of brake as I am seeing a great reduction in recoil but more vertical bounce that I don't remember before.
Cheers
Always logical thinking. Will be ordering my 4AW brake soon.
Cheers Man, thanks
Well explained ... great video Mark .
Thanks Shane, cheers
I figured some of this out on my stock lithgow 105 break . Had significant push down and bounce . And your break worked to fix that mark :-) and was 1 MOA higher POI so that’s the proof in the pudding .
Great video mark ;-)
I feel the end of the video was directed at me lol 😂
Thanks Chris, glad you like em, Cheers
Your insight is always "worth it"
Cheers Man, thanks
Very informative video Sir. Thank you. No one puts it in perspective like you Do.👍👍👍👀😎
Cheers Man, thanks
excellent, informative and understandable! as always! thanks from up above!
Cheers Ron
Good information…cheers…!
Cheers
You are a saint and a scholar! Cheers mate!
Cheers Yong, thanks man.
Thank you sir for keeping it real.
Cheers Walter
I had a muzzle brake with ports in the top. I don't think they helped to contropl muzzle jump, but what they did do was to release a puff of smoke which obscured the sighting of my rifle at the instant of trigger release.
Lol, Cheers Richard
So great. Chears my friend.
Thanks Walter, Cheers
Great video and a lot of info. I’m super excited I just ordered your 4 port for my 300 Rum that’s not threaded so I can go with the biggest threads possible. Cheers
Awesome, thanks Tim, Cheers
Wish you would have been there when I was trying to explain to my gunsmith of why I had requested a custom-made muzzle break with 35 degree angle baffles and 13/16 treads. You would have explained way better than me. He could not compute because it was out of the norm and not was he was used to from the average customers and main stream knowledge.
Thanks Man, Cheers
Nice video and informative I learn new things... Thanks for sharing
Thanks Man, Cheers
Great video Mark!
Thanks Jason, Cheers
Thanks Mark Great Vidio as always . Steve .
Thanks Steve
Great video describing the forces on different brakes. On another note, I’ve watched your Nightforce NX8 reviews now and wonder if you can do a video on the illumination on those scopes. I think you’d be the first on UA-cam to actually do a video on what the illumination looks like between ffp and sfp reticles. Even Nightforce had nothing to send me besides their stock picture with a white background
Thanks Man, and if we do another review video on that scope I will do that, Cheers
Mark, excellent......... thanks
Cheers Man, thanks
If the rifle doesn't need a muzzle brake, don't put one on. Why people put muzzle brakes on small caliber rifles is a mystery to me. If you're shooting a magnum, a muzzle brake is almost a necessity but on a .223 Rem??? Mark is absolutely right about the effects a muzzle brake can have on accuracy and the rifle itself. If you're bouncing that muzzle up and down that is eventually going to stress the action and its mating surfaces to the stock.
Cheers
great info as always, great work. i currently run the Strike Industries J-Comp V2 on AR platform and it works for me pretty well. i eventually would like to get something for the 7mag.
Cheers JJ, thanks
Thank You- QUES: I've watched 2 muzzle brake video's, and have Not heard you address Induced stresses, bore diameter growth, stress induced bore axis shift ALL Right AT the muzzle, induced in the threading process..
Must keep it "consistant" and is repeatable,, right?
*** ALSO- is there an "almost" guaranteed process to thread a bbl, ***without permanently impacting "group size for the "worst!"?? I'll have to live with- for the better 😁😁😁
***WHAT IS IT?
* What should I look for in a gunsmith?
Is there a ratio you use-
IE: *** Barrel OD/Bore dia/= wall thickness ratio to recommend ok to thread?
*** OR NOT threading?
Or a barrel wall thickness ratio you look for AFTER threading??
THANK YOU.
Muzzle threads ua-cam.com/video/wCrO8oIhTEo/v-deo.html
How to find you answers/info on the channel ua-cam.com/video/lWohyYEn-wc/v-deo.html
Great Video!
cheers Amir
Good day sharp shooter 😂☝️👍
Cheers Lyndon
Great video. What do you think about "blast forwarding devices"?
Have not used any, Cheers
Got me looking REAL closely at my fat bastard brake on my 300WM build.. excellent video, as always
-----
“How to suck eggs”? No idea but I’m gonna use that..
Cheers Man, thanks
Great video gracias!!!!!!!!
Cheers
To prevent the slight vertical movement caused by the arc the rifle travels due to the bipod moving backward during recoil, would a bag rider mounted up front (i.e. no bipod) be worth trying? In other words two bag riders. One in front and one in back.
That’s called bench rest, lol, cheers
Mark, I very rarely comment on anything. I am a car guy, and as of recently I've gone down the rabbit hole of being a gun guy too. I want to thank you and Sam for the interesting videos and I have found your information videos so beneficial to my perspective and knowledge base.. Keep up the outstanding work. If you're ever in the states(Ohio), Would be great to share a meal.
Thanks Man, glad you like them, Cheers and all the best.
Can you make about Zastava m70 bolt action in long range
If you or someone sends us one, or organize one to us, we sure can, Cheers
I really don’t get why people still make radial brakes. I can’t think of a single reason to use one
-least recoil reduction
-very loud
-kicks up most dirt
-hard to make
(drilling 90 holes vs cutting 4 ports)
-gas goes in front of scope
Yeh, not my choice either, Cheers
Question 1 what do you need ….. to do? Just like all the other options on YOUR rifle. More factual information to help us understand and make the best choice. Than you
Cheers
My Volquartsen handgun has a muzzle break that only ports upwards. This stops 'muzzle flip' in speed shooting competitions, bearing in mind it's a 22lr with a 5.5 in barrel so not a lot of gas to push .
Discussed in vid, Cheers