As a trained silversmith I have to give you a solid 90-95% “Thumbs up” for your creativity in this video! The only reason why I can’t give you the full 100% is that you overlooked a _really_ crucial detail that newbies at this would miss, and that is that there needs to be a cold water bath by the buffer (big enough to hold the entire blade), and that the blade needs to be quenched each time it starts to warm up - long before it changes color - to prevent the person honing the knife from destroying the heat treatment (tempering) that allows the blade to maintain its Rockwell hardness and hold an edge. About 20 years ago, while still in school, I made that mistake with a tempered steel onglette type graver point that so quickly changed after accidental bluing that it went from feeling like a knife through butter to something more like a bulldozer through rocky soil, when working on copper sheeting - a lesson I’ve never forgotten. This obviously wouldn’t be an issue with a $12 Mora, but on a pricier or custom made blade, that could be a very different story! (Just my $0.02 worth...)
That makes so much sense. Theres been a few times where thats happened (discoloration) and I was scared to sharpen newer or more expensive knives and blades because I didnt understand why after I sharpened my blades it would be shit after. Thanks for the tip Sir, Made my life a little better.
Huh. I use an mdf wheel and I’ve never had a blade heat up from its use. Maybe because I go one pass at a time, rather than back and forth while sharpening? But good to know about the water in case that does happen. Thanks.
Thank you Douglas it's people like you who give golden nuggets of experience and knowledge for free just so people don't make the same mistakes as you I really appreciate it as many others do👍
60 seconds on a this thing would never heat metal that hot unless you really pressed and never lifted up. Wouldn't hurt to have water but not necessary
This is something I'm going to have to try! A word for anyone considering this method: always use the lightest touch when honing with that wheel. Solid plywood spinning fast like that will heat a blade *very* rapidly if too much pressure is applied, potentially ruining the heat treatment at the edge of the blade.
Extremely important point about overheating and ruining temper/hardness of blade! If you got to color change of metal, you very likely went too far, too fast, detempered the edge... food for thought.
I remember years ago visiting Spain. There was an old chap there who visited local restaurants sharpening knives. He had a similar set up, but it was mounted on an ancient Vespa scooter - the seat was modified and the apparatus sat on the pillion, the sharpening wheel being linked directly the engine. I was quite jealous of his simple life style.
im 4 yrs late but here I go. During the 90's here in Philippines, I remember some sharpener professionals who ride a bicycle around the town offering sharpening service. what they have is round sharpening stone with a bicycle chain attached to it, they will attach the chain of the sharpening stone to the pedals of the bicycle and viola, a manual grinding stone powered by pedals. it's really cool to watch them sharpen knives and scissors.
Me to man I spent thousands on equipment machinery chassis straightening spray booths ,for 35 years ,and I see trade's people doing the same in Eastern Europe with a couple of grands worth of tools. We were told we couldn't do the Jobs on panels chassis welding repairs for ins company's etc ,it certainly looks a lot more trade like relaxed normalised way of working. Cheers catch up later..
Such a perfect use for the ol' bench grinder that *everyone* has. (Shoutout to the people replying 3 years later who can't tell a sarcastic comment from a genuine one. Love you all.)
I just made an 8 inch wheel from some high grade finished plywood. I followed the steps and tried various types of polishing rouge at 20 degrees. I did a couple of knives and looked at the edge under the microscope. Clearly, each bevel is free from defects and is quite smooth, uniform and polished in appearance (nice! ) (very unlike using a steel) . However the edge point itself was not perfect and needed a bit of touch up with a leather strap. Result=good.
I sharpened a lot of stuff by hand over the years. The most time I spent was sharpening an 18" machete to razor-sharp starting from a hand file then going to a cheap 2 stage whetstone. It probably took like 5-10 hrs. In the end, it was sharp enough to shave with and could cut through a 2" tree in one swing. I would say this is a good method to get similar results in a lot less time.
If you just need to renew the edge of your knife, I find using the non-glazed ring on the base of a coffee mug perfect. That method brings kitchen and pocket knives back to razor sharp also.
I had a grinder with one side available so I immediately went into the shop and rounded up the materials and built one and it works beautifully. On one side of my grinder is a buffing wheel which I used for polishing knives that I build so I already had the jewelers rouge (grinding compound). Don't listen to the people who always try to convince themselves that they are smarter by belittling the accomplishments of others because they usually have none of their own. Use a little common sense and a light touch and there are no chance of overheating the blade. Thanks for the post. I always love a good idea and this one was a keeper.
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
Excellent work. Short, specific & to the point, with EXCELLENT narration. I find the added benefit of the narration lets us know what you're thinking while you progress, and often offers insights unavailable in videos lacking good narration. THIS answers a number of questions, and I plan to add to my shop a way to QUICKLY sharpen my edged tools ! Thanks !
Tips for those trying it: Get two type of compound. One fine (white from link in video description) and one ultra fine (green from same link). Put the fine on the wheel and take your time so the blade doesn't get hot or use an oil or water bath occasionally to cool the blade down between passes. Put the ultra fine on a nice leather strop and use that to finish the polish and perfect the edge (if more than a great working edge actually matters to you).
I found this about 3 months ago, and built my wooden sharpening disk. It works great. All of our knives in the house now are razor sharp. I can shave with them. I also built a 8" inch by 1 inch leather stropping wheel by glueing layers of leather together and cutting it into a disk and shaping it using a chisel. This now gives me a two stage approach and enables me to do light maintenance on my knifes with less metal removed. Thanks for sharing this video. Knife sharpening is now therapeutic and satisfying.
I Just used the plywood to start with as it was stronger than the MDF so would be much safer however in the end it also improved the edge I was getting as it is harder and compresses less. The MDF would sometimes manage to roll over the edge that I was sharpening where as the plywood strops it razor sharp. Also the alternating grain picks up the buffing compound well. Thanks man.
Excellent video 1. cost to make the polishing wheel is close to zero + the polishing compound brings within the reach of anyone 2. the technique can be easily mastered by anyone who is paying attention to your video 3. the results are very quick and more than adequate thanks for your efforts
Great video mate. I especially like that you have mentioned very good methods of working safely. I hate blunt knives and spend a lot of time using a steel to try and keep an edge on my kitchen knives but I’m not very good at using the oil stone I use to sharpen them. I have often thought of investing in good wet stones but I’m not sure I would be any better at using them either. This looks like a great, quick and easy method. Very professional, informative and useful video. Thank you.
Enjoyed The Video. I get a nice edge on my knifes with a wet stone. All knifes sharpened once a month. Your video made me appreciate what I Have. Thanks!
What a sane sensible well put together clear and erudite explanation and solution If only other videos were like this in their presentation. No hype, just the facts.
Using a cardboard wheel also works quite well. Multiple pieces of corrugated cardboard next to each other setup exactly the same. This worked so incredibly well for me that i never thought to try anything else.
Awesome! I made up a disc from 4, 1/4 inch plywood pieces glued together. I followed directions and was amazed at how quickly I was able to get a razor edge on my knives. I'm simply horrible at wet stone sharpening so this gives me hope that finally I won't be embarrassed at trying to cut meat with something duller than a butter knife.
I remember a commercial product sold on this very same premise about 30 or more years ago. It used a very tough cardboard wheel with polishing/buffing compound. I saw them sold at gun shows here in the US. I know for a fact they worked really well because a friend bought one. A whetstone is always the best if you are willing to invest in good equipment and learn how to use it, but it's nice to have options for everyone else.
An old guy I knew told me about these back in the day (over 30 years ago). Then I saw a demo of one at the state fair. Found three at a thrift store several years later. Gave one to the old guy who told me about it. Then ruined one because the blade caught into the wheel like at 3:08 - that's a great tip in this video. I still have one left and plan on giving it another go. Besides the cardboard wheel, it came with a sandpaper grit wheel and several rubbing compound packs.
@@MrHellfinger what you describe is exactly the kit I remember being sold. They always had one in operation and would charge a few dollars to sharpen any knife, I would assume in hopes you would be impressed enough to just buy the sharpening wheels.
I used this method years ago and it actually dulled my knife, but I fixed up the wheel and added the compound and tried again, it saw barely any progress but I kept going for another 15 minutes and it actually got pretty close to razor sharp, I found the problem which was the compound I was using was for leather and not that abrasive. Not to mention the blade's steel was a hard steel, so I bought the same brand of polishing compound and it worked. Cuts like butter. Hopefully some one you found this helpful if you were having trouble
Came across your video a few days ago and I had to try it out!! After reading some of the reviews on here, I've come to the conclusion that I am a moe! I did everything step by step as you did in video and I didn't get the same results as you or the viewers. I don't know if the angle isn't correct or what but I've had no luck.
I have an ancient power drill that my dad bought a mount for. I have sanding/grinding wheels that I chuck into the drill to smooth jagged metal edges. I will make your setup and see how it works-it is simple, which I like.
this is ingenious. looks like it took me 5 years to finally get this as a recommendation. I was going to post a warning since this appears it could be coming around again. to be extremely careful when working with the rotating grinding stone because you could absolutely destroy a knife in seconds. this method with using wood instead of a stone is ingenious and I can't wait to try it
I'd just like to point out, with this method, you're basically creating a big burr (By sharpening from the spine to the edge). This big burr will mean that you can get your knife really sharp, but the edge will be dulled incredibly fast (it will require honing very very often). Many knifes just need honing or stropping to get sharp (replacing the bent burr into place). The longer the burr, the faster it will bend, this is why knifemakers sharpen from the edge to the spine. I'm not saying this is a wrong thing to do, I just want to provide more information as tho who this technique is for. A knifemaker would not use this (unless they don't know what they are doing) and this will require frequent honing and sharpening to maintain the edge (far more frequent than one would normally). If you don't know how to sharpen and don't want to learn, then this is for you. -Knifemaker and blacksmith.
Karl Hurtubise wow. Imho this is nonsense. I don't know on which planet knifemaker sharpen from edge to spine, but not at the one i live. The burr won't get to long or even stay there forever, it will eventually rip of and break off of the edge, at least after cutting two or three times into some wood f.e. This happens on a microscopic level. You can easily watch this with a cheap USB microscope. There is absolutely no advantage by grinding from edge to spine. It's more the other way around! When you sharpen in the direction of the spine, small steel particles get pulled towards the spine, ripping small teeth into your edge, which make the edge rough. When steel is soft, a burr can get pulled under your edge, folding around it. Watch Japanese chefs or traditional Japanese smiths how they sharpen knifes or swords. They do it from spine to the edge. And they do this for some longer time than any american. Your method has its truth when we talk about very rough grinding with low grit numbers, where the burr is still thick enough to hold on and bend. But when you grind with 3000 grit or more, the burr gets so incredibly thin, that it breakes or rippes of. Though this works only for hardened steel.
Karl Hurtubise i forgot one important point. When you grind a knife on a whetstone, you absolutely need that burr. Only with the burr you cam actually feel if you grinded long enough on one side of the knife, because it will only be feelable if you your grinded surface of the right angle reaches the tip of the edge. When you feel the burr you change sides, then use a lower grit and repeat until you feel that burr again. If you reached the finest wanted grid you can break the burr by grinding one stroke from edge to spine or you use a fine steel sharpener or a leather belt. The problem you mentioned really just occurs on a macroscopic, rough level, but not on a microscopic level on very fine abrasives.
by grinding or sharpening from spine to edge, you still create a burr, it is however a lot smaller. Japanese knife makers also sharpen from spine to edge on whetstones,they actually do a back and forth motion to discard any burr more efficiently. so I don't know at all where you get your info from. Also, on a microscopic level, you always have a serration pattern, as it is exactly that that provides a cutting edge. Without serrations (although the finer they get, the better) you would only be able to cut with pressure, not with back and forth strokes. Those serrations are essential and the finer and more regular they are, the better the edge (other factors as angle and geometry also play a factor) Usually, sharpening is done by pushing the edge in the stone, and then final stropping of the knife is done by drawing the edge on a strop. Now your point about the ripping of small teeth into the edge is just exactly what grinding it does. With a 3000 grit stone, those channels are extremely tiny and will create the serrations needed. Whether it is steel particles or stone particles that create these channels, they will be the same size also. They are still created by sharpening from spine to edge anyway and those channels will be exactly equal, the only difference being the burr size (by pushing the edge into the stone, the burr is created from the very fine edge being pushed up with pression. Stropping (or honing ) is then needed in both methods to align the burr. The longer burr will bend more quickly and need re-stropping faster, it will also tend to chip off. A very simple search on google will provide info in concordance with my view, and blacksmithing/knifemaking manuals also provide more info. Fyi: I've studied this, and I did it on this very planet.
When I first saw this video I thought you were just using a default bench grinder (Which would be pretty stupid), but as soon as I heard you mention the wooden wheel, I realized that you were ingenious.
That's perfect sir once you get it set up. Time of sharpening is my issue 1-2min. Ur done and it's always razor sharp in a matter of sec. That's what I like I use my son's Dremmel when I need too sharpen but now you have shown me the light thank you
You can also turn a belt sander upside down(it helps if it has a locking trigger) and start with some fine grit sandpaper. Set it up the same way as the video ,so the belt is spinning away from you and sharpen the edge the same way. The way the belt goes around a roller can give chisels and knives a nice hollow grind.
Very well set up video. What you need, where to get it, how to use it, drawbacks, and for who specifically it is useful for. Can't say I have ever seen all those points addressed in one video especially one under 10min.
I mounted a hand drill on a vice and used an MDF disk with it. Even at medium speed the wheel worked great. Even a small bit of compound lasts a long time. A steady hand and a light touch works best. I agree with safety concerns though. Always position your self and hands so that if your knife or whatever you are sharpening slips, your tool and hands move away from the spinning disk. Haven't tried it with plywood yet but I will give it a try soon.
Just went to the Garage and made one! Took me around half an our. Cut everything with the cnc, put it on and boom. Works like a charm. Thank you, I finally have sharp chisels again. And my pocket Knife is actually worth the name "knife" again. cheers
That depends on your grinder. I think mine was 120mm but yours could be bigger or (unlikely) smaller. Just measure the grinding stone that was on there and make it that size. You have to measure eather way because you need the diameter of the shaft on the grinder..
@@nils1953 Bigger may NOT be better. If you increase the diameter then you increase the risk of the wood breaking up under the increased forces exerted on the spinning wood. I wouldn't go any bigger than 150mm diameter because this seems to be safe.
When I worked in a knife shop we used a similar method only thing is we had a clamp at a certain angle so it made it idiot proof. But awesome video bro!
So true, the simpler the job, the more confident you are & the more complacent you get......plus there's that damned ol fashion luck thing that plagues must of us back yard diy'ers because of our stubborn 'I can do anything myself' mindset
Been using this type of sharpning for several years. It works extremely well. You can even get carbide lathe tools super sharp. Mfd board works very well
When you said the wooden disc can be cut by any tool, I tried to cut it with a screwdriver and had great difficulty. Could you make a video showing me how to do it. Thank you.
The only problem I've had with polishing edges of knives, is that the sharpness quickly wears away. I prefer a rough edge like a scalpel blade. The most important aspect is to get a good edge that can be deburred many times before a new edge needs to be created. For old school barber blade shaving, there's stropping. Of which, the method in the video is a more mechanical way of stropping. For pocket knives or kitchen knives you want a rougher edge that can grab the material that's being cut.
So I tried this, and it works pretty well, but I just can't seem to get my knives shaving sharp. I have a couple theories as to why (other than just being bad at sharpening): I couldn't find silverline in the US, so I used the closest I could find: Woodstock D2902 1 lb Extra Fine Buffing Compound, Green. My plywood also had hidden holes in a couple of its layers which keep the polishing surface from being completely smooth. Is it likely that those are the problem? If not, could you make/point me at a tutorial on how best to get that last bit of sharpness using this method?
Hi. The best way to sharpen your tools are the normal grindstones. It costs 15 minutes on the first sharpening. After that it costs you 10 seconds to sharpen it. On your problem might be the angle. Keep a 15 to 20 degree to sharpen your knife. Try getting a constant angle on both sides rather than trying to get the perfect angle. Get a 1000/500 sharpening stone and start to grind at an angle your finger could barely fit under with pressure on the blade. If your blade is dull use the rough side stone with alot of pressure to get a rough fit and then change to the smoother side to give the blade its needed sharpness. Advice...never go in dry , always water the stone before and give it a nice wet rub during the process. Its always a better outcome without machines unless you are a professional. Another advice... use a grindstab after eher work to keep your knife sharp. Also never use soll or throw it in your dishwasher. Only clear water and a towel.
Jewelers, such as I am, use a cotton wheel. These wheels can be of various densities from a jeweler's supply shop and there are wheels that are dense that you can load with rouge.
they work wonders when you're trying to to put a shiny finish but when sharpening that give will screw the bevel geometry we use leather wheels, they need some dressing and while they don't cost much for someone with dedication to sharpening, for a beginner that money may be better spent on a diamond flattening plate and some stones so the plywood might be an acceptable substitute for a while not shunning them at all tho, they put a mad shine on all the brass bits (on a side note, the truly insane sharpeners end up using extremely high grit lapping compounds designed for optical lenses and do the whole thing by hand)
@@mindbreak666 A cotton wheel is not a sharpening tool. It's for polishing. I sharpen my hand plane blades to 16,000, which enables me to take shavings less than 0.001 of an inch and leaves the wood surface burnished to a near mirror surface.
This is a fantastic idea. I do believe I am going to get some leather and put in the wheel, then add the polishing compound to that. A spinning strop. Thank you so much for sharing this!!!
I’m a knife sharpener and I love this. You can use this on expensive knives. You just have to make sure your spleen is slower. You don’t want to over heat the metal for a long period of time.
Just made this and sharpened my kitchen knives. Very cool! Some while ago I had a disk made of some hard but flexible resin or plastic - that one was easier to use, but the plywood also works well! Thank you!
Thanks buddy, this will be my new project to help finish my other project ... I have a katana sword that was in a bad condition and IV been taking the time to slowly but surely restore and bringit back from death, currently it shiny and in a really good condition compared to how it used to be however I have been doing it all with my hands and minimum machinery unless necessary , currently and in the sharpening process but because the blade it's self was removed for safety reasons it's taking a long time to file it down evenly and this gives my a idea a high power fan and a wood block with time I could create one of these but small enough to be fan size but powerful enough to get the job done and because it is simple I can easily place the fan blade back on when finished so I do t actually ruin the fan ( multi purpose fan ) I think am going to get the saw and drill out soon and make one my self ... Thanks for the information and I have to say it was detailed I assume I could leave the buffer chalk out but after your explanation on why it's a important factor i will be sure to get some of that too , excellent video , big thumbs up
i think this is a brilliant video. i'm forever sharpening knives, i have a set of sabatier and can never get a good edge. turning the grinder around is so obvious that i can't believe i didn't think of it. well done.
Been doing that for years almost identical to you and you are correct in everything you said. I use it mainly for pocket knives and kitchen knives. On my large hunting and fighting knives I use stones and leather. On my machettis I use a sander.
Two things to note. The rotation speed of the grinder cannot be too high. Depending on the wood used it could potentionally fly apart. If someone uses a Lathe, way too much speed can easily be achieved! Please beware. Second, you don't necessarily have to turn around the grinder. If turned backwards as shown in the video, you can sharp above the grinding wheel. But if used normally, you just have to hold the Knoif Edge below the grinder.
Would it be better to have a variable speed bench grinder. Isn't it be bad to get too high of a temperature while sharpening ? Doesn't overheating damage the strength of the metal in the blade ?
Jack Taylor yes it can take the temper out of the metal and make it softer I would recommend doing this for a few seconds then dipping it in water to cool it as long as you don’t get it to hot to touch you should be fine
I so glad you mentioned the rotation of the wheel because the first thing that came to mind was the people that are going to die from trying this but do it wrong.
Thank you! This is brilliant. I wish there was a neat way to sharpen 'V' shaped lino-cutting tools (AKA Pfeill). I find it too difficult to maintain the complex edge. I imagine you would have some really inventive ideas....
I have been sharpening knives like this for more than 15 years. I always used an MDF wheel, because I had it lying around. It is the easiest and fastest way indeed. Never felt the need for using stones anymore.
Yo! This idea finally got taken and produced! I saw pretty much the exact same thing in the Lee Valley catalogue, going for CAD $110 for 8" and $140 for 10"
Glad to see someone online that admits to the public that whetstone honing takes considerable skill, especially concerning straight razors. I can sharpen my pocket and kitchen knives, but no luck with straight razors, and I have a Naniwa 1K, 12K, a Norton 4/8K, a DMT coarse to dress the Norton and several strops. Still no luck after 4 years on straight razors, and this is with quality one!:(-John in Texas
Thanks for the video, made a wood wheel for my table saw and honed all my knives with it (working from the back side). Fastest way I've been able to bring the edges to scary sharp.
@koviack Well the broken parts will fly around at high speed.^^ So you should use a decent birch plywood, remove material to balance the wheel and use very little pressure. It's also important to use the same diameter as the machine wheels so you won't introduce highly different forces that the grinder wasn't supposed to withstand.
@koviack Eye protection is recommended, obviously. Grind wheels can/do shatter (esp. in angle grinders) but I can't imagine a thick plywood wheel would disintegrate at this size/RPM. Lamination vastly improves resistance to cracking in a grained material like wood. I'll stick with the OP's dimensions anyway as he proved they work fine over a long time frame, so there is no need to alter them.
I made one today and since I am skilled that way I got a couple of cheap knives and tried it on them before using it on my good knives. Very effective and quick
Did this years ago. But I glued leather strips together. Even without the buffing compound, the leather works great. Just have to scrape it off after a few hours of use.
Depending upon the nature of the (steel) blade material, your sharpening the blade with a the wheel running away from you is that it lends itself to forming what I call a 'wire' edge. This means a thin bit of very sharp material that is indeed very sharp, but that is not robust, will, at the macrosopic level, break off after too few initial cuts. (Recall barbers with their leather strops; they wern't abrading steel away, they were working the wire-edge back and forth, and facilitating it's reformation... very sharp... very short lived.)
Thank you, you said it better than I was going too. I forgot the less offensive term "wire edge", I still call it as it is, a burr, a really sharp burr, as all burrs are. Great for that broad head that'll be slicing through your deer, one time. But my kitchen knives are not burred edged. And when they don't perform, it's to the stone and then strop and they're good for another 6 months.
Tache said it best. Now I’ll subscribe and give you a high five! This is news I needed back in the 1960s when I was young. But I’ll be able to use this now for my last years. Gotta keep, keepin on!
You Aint old till you are done, only God makes that decision! I am 80 and still try to do as much as possible plus hit the gym three times a week. I am sure you are close to my age?
This seems like a great idea. I understand the safety consideration of rotating away from you, but what if you then also turn the knife around so the rotation is edge to spine? Yes OK if you cut into the wheel your wheel and/or knife is screwed but at least the knife will fly away from you, and it might conform better to sharpening theory that way. Also what type of buffing compound do you recommend? That would be the only item I need to buy.
I like his warning about people not being able to use power tools , that this can be dangerous .He just insulted 99.75 of his UA-cam viewer's . They comment on the video's but can't tie there own shoe's .
only thing you have to watch is you have a much smaller surface area and that piece of wood will heat up quick, which could also heat up the knife. If hot enough you could ruin the heat treat. And if the wood gets hot, then cold, then hot, it could warp the wood and not know it which would inconsistently sharpen your knife. You absolutely can do that with your dremel, just gotta keep these things in mind. Hit the knife with it, lift it off so it can cool for a sec, then back to the knife, repeat. Have a good one man!
When I saw the thumb nail I thought you would be using a paper wheel which are very good but quite expensive, it would never have occurred to me to use a plywood wheel. Thanks for sharing, if I can get it to work for me then you've saved me a considerable amount.
I’ve been using basically this method for around 2 years using an angle grinder and a wooden disc with a similar buffing compound. It’s less stable and requires a vice to work effectively, I definitely would prefer the method in the video if I had a bench grinder.
when you take into account wet stones are very pricey and it takes 30-45 mins (per blade) for someone who knows what they are doing with wet stones... his title makes sense...
Something spinning at high speed is really not what you want put a blade to. A blade needs one split second of inattention to snag the wheel and it is anyone's guess as to where and how badly it it stabs you. This video is insane.
Honestly i've never witnessed plywood sharpening a knife before, interesting, and great to know. However this is the exact opposite of a "lazy man's" way of sharpening a knife. Lol✌️
not. and i highly recommend not to try this shit. i'm a friend of a good old "sharpening steel" - u get the knife same sharp, don't need any electricity and if u got a bit practise, u need only 20-30s. sooo....the title of this upload is a lie. + your knifes will not live very long if u use a grinding wheel on them. wkr, ~ a german toolmaker from daimler benz, class-best of a final exam
As a trained silversmith I have to give you a solid 90-95% “Thumbs up” for your creativity in this video! The only reason why I can’t give you the full 100% is that you overlooked a _really_ crucial detail that newbies at this would miss, and that is that there needs to be a cold water bath by the buffer (big enough to hold the entire blade), and that the blade needs to be quenched each time it starts to warm up - long before it changes color - to prevent the person honing the knife from destroying the heat treatment (tempering) that allows the blade to maintain its Rockwell hardness and hold an edge. About 20 years ago, while still in school, I made that mistake with a tempered steel onglette type graver point that so quickly changed after accidental bluing that it went from feeling like a knife through butter to something more like a bulldozer through rocky soil, when working on copper sheeting - a lesson I’ve never forgotten.
This obviously wouldn’t be an issue with a $12 Mora, but on a pricier or custom made blade, that could be a very different story! (Just my $0.02 worth...)
That makes so much sense. Theres been a few times where thats happened (discoloration) and I was scared to sharpen newer or more expensive knives and blades because I didnt understand why after I sharpened my blades it would be shit after. Thanks for the tip Sir, Made my life a little better.
Huh. I use an mdf wheel and I’ve never had a blade heat up from its use. Maybe because I go one pass at a time, rather than back and forth while sharpening? But good to know about the water in case that does happen. Thanks.
based boomer
Thank you Douglas it's people like you who give golden nuggets of experience and knowledge for free just so people don't make the same mistakes as you I really appreciate it as many others do👍
60 seconds on a this thing would never heat metal that hot unless you really pressed and never lifted up. Wouldn't hurt to have water but not necessary
no clickbait, no robot voice, such videos get rare on youtube. you deserve a like.
And no annoying music!
he has a robot voice
It's not youtube pre 2012 anymore.
@@daytona2134 and there's "annoying music" which isn't that annoying tho
nowonmetube '
This is something I'm going to have to try! A word for anyone considering this method: always use the lightest touch when honing with that wheel. Solid plywood spinning fast like that will heat a blade *very* rapidly if too much pressure is applied, potentially ruining the heat treatment at the edge of the blade.
Extremely important point about overheating and ruining temper/hardness of blade! If you got to color change of metal, you very likely went too far, too fast, detempered the edge... food for thought.
I would be more concerned of the wooden wheel exploding.
I don't think a plywood wheel could explode at that rpm
I wonder if you could add some water without ruining the plywood. Perhaps if it's marine grade?
@@wordup897 Yup, unless it was already compromised it'll be fine - plywood is way tougher than most people think.
I remember years ago visiting Spain. There was an old chap there who visited local restaurants sharpening knives. He had a similar set up, but it was mounted on an ancient Vespa scooter - the seat was modified and the apparatus sat on the pillion, the sharpening wheel being linked directly the engine. I was quite jealous of his simple life style.
im 4 yrs late but here I go.
During the 90's here in Philippines, I remember some sharpener professionals who ride a bicycle around the town offering sharpening service. what they have is round sharpening stone with a bicycle chain attached to it, they will attach the chain of the sharpening stone to the pedals of the bicycle and viola, a manual grinding stone powered by pedals.
it's really cool to watch them sharpen knives and scissors.
@@Ace-Vincent-Arevalo We still have those guys here in Portugal. Same system, they use a typical whistle to attract attention.
i know a guy that used to visit restaurants sharpening knives and he has a knife store now
Me to man I spent thousands on equipment machinery chassis straightening spray booths ,for 35 years ,and I see trade's people doing the same in Eastern Europe with a couple of grands worth of tools.
We were told we couldn't do the Jobs on panels chassis welding repairs for ins company's etc ,it certainly looks a lot more trade like relaxed normalised way of working.
Cheers catch up later..
I didn't know the a
Such a perfect use for the ol' bench grinder that *everyone* has.
(Shoutout to the people replying 3 years later who can't tell a sarcastic comment from a genuine one. Love you all.)
Not everybody. 😥
Let alone a bench... Great video if you have a machine shop🤪
WarGrrl3 :/
@@WarGrrl3 sarcasm...
@@CL9k24a3 I know. You didn't get mine.
I tried this and bought a bench grinder specifically for this application which I set up in the pantry. Works great, I use it everyday. Thank you!
You have to resharpen it every day?
Would it also cut arm hair? Or is it exclusive to leg hair?
Fredrick Quimby no only leg hair as seen in the video
Most knife maniacs have shaved their hands already... So this is the reason for leg :)
hahahahaha
can it shave scrotum beard? I mean in The Hobbit
Fredrick Quimby Be careful bro
I just made an 8 inch wheel from some high grade finished plywood. I followed the steps and tried various types of polishing rouge at 20 degrees. I did a couple of knives and looked at the edge under the microscope. Clearly, each bevel is free from defects and is quite smooth, uniform and polished in appearance (nice! ) (very unlike using a steel) . However the edge point itself was not perfect and needed a bit of touch up with a leather strap. Result=good.
I sharpened a lot of stuff by hand over the years. The most time I spent was sharpening an 18" machete to razor-sharp starting from a hand file then going to a cheap 2 stage whetstone. It probably took like 5-10 hrs. In the end, it was sharp enough to shave with and could cut through a 2" tree in one swing. I would say this is a good method to get similar results in a lot less time.
If you just need to renew the edge of your knife, I find using the non-glazed ring on the base of a coffee mug perfect. That method brings kitchen and pocket knives back to razor sharp also.
C HA RIS COFFEE GAZING FLAMING HELL ???
I had a grinder with one side available so I immediately went into the shop and rounded up the materials and built one and it works beautifully. On one side of my grinder is a buffing wheel which I used for polishing knives that I build so I already had the jewelers rouge (grinding compound). Don't listen to the people who always try to convince themselves that they are smarter by belittling the accomplishments of others because they usually have none of their own. Use a little common sense and a light touch and there are no chance of overheating the blade. Thanks for the post. I always love a good idea and this one was a keeper.
Clifton Bennett
Evelyn Conroy
J Woods
So we are ignoring the fact that he just found some parts and build a grinder?
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
Excellent work. Short, specific & to the point, with EXCELLENT narration. I find the added benefit of the narration lets us know what you're thinking while you progress, and often offers insights unavailable in videos lacking good narration. THIS answers a number of questions, and I plan to add to my shop a way to QUICKLY sharpen my edged tools ! Thanks !
Tips for those trying it:
Get two type of compound. One fine (white from link in video description) and one ultra fine (green from same link).
Put the fine on the wheel and take your time so the blade doesn't get hot or use an oil or water bath occasionally to cool the blade down between passes.
Put the ultra fine on a nice leather strop and use that to finish the polish and perfect the edge (if more than a great working edge actually matters to you).
I found this about 3 months ago, and built my wooden sharpening disk. It works great. All of our knives in the house now are razor sharp. I can shave with them. I also built a 8" inch by 1 inch leather stropping wheel by glueing layers of leather together and cutting it into a disk and shaping it using a chisel. This now gives me a two stage approach and enables me to do light maintenance on my knifes with less metal removed. Thanks for sharing this video. Knife sharpening is now therapeutic and satisfying.
I still haven't tried this, I really need to. So plywood this time rather than mdf, did you do that purely for strength of the wheel?
I Just used the plywood to start with as it was stronger than the MDF so would be much safer however in the end it also improved the edge I was getting as it is harder and compresses less. The MDF would sometimes manage to roll over the edge that I was sharpening where as the plywood strops it razor sharp. Also the alternating grain picks up the buffing compound well.
Thanks man.
TAOW can i use a dremel tool?
nighthawk what r u doing here
The dremel spins to fast. The plywood might come apart sending splinters or chunks that could injure you.
The very fine dust you would make while truing up an MDF wheel is pretty unhealthy stuff - don't breath it in.
With a little bit of extra work you can set up a jig to help keeping the perfect angle. Great set up.
Excellent video
1. cost to make the polishing wheel is close to zero + the polishing compound brings within the reach of anyone
2. the technique can be easily mastered by anyone who is paying attention to your video
3. the results are very quick and more than adequate
thanks for your efforts
The ingenuity to make these diy tools and accessories are genius! I'm anxious to diy some of these myself!
Great video mate. I especially like that you have mentioned very good methods of working safely. I hate blunt knives and spend a lot of time using a steel to try and keep an edge on my kitchen knives but I’m not very good at using the oil stone I use to sharpen them. I have often thought of investing in good wet stones but I’m not sure I would be any better at using them either. This looks like a great, quick and easy method. Very professional, informative and useful video. Thank you.
Instead of more equipment, invest in a course.
Enjoyed The Video. I get a nice edge on my knifes with a wet stone. All knifes sharpened once a month. Your video made me appreciate what I Have. Thanks!
I use knives every day in my work so this will be well worth doing for me (I've even got the very same Clarke bench grinder!). Thanks for posting it.
When you see a person with patches of hair missing from their legs, they might be into edged weapons.
Or from their arms.
@@johnhughes9978 I have a few patches on my arm 😄
@@user-jh8cx4jf7u I hear you.
You got me.
Aka knife fighter mange.
What a sane sensible well put together clear and erudite explanation and solution If only other videos were like this in their presentation. No hype, just the facts.
Using a cardboard wheel also works quite well. Multiple pieces of corrugated cardboard next to each other setup exactly the same. This worked so incredibly well for me that i never thought to try anything else.
Yeah, paper wheels work well.
Awesome! I made up a disc from 4, 1/4 inch plywood pieces glued together. I followed directions and was amazed at how quickly I was able to get a razor edge on my knives. I'm simply horrible at wet stone sharpening so this gives me hope that finally I won't be embarrassed at trying to cut meat with something duller than a butter knife.
…”so wait till the end of the video before you ask questions in the comments”
What a boss move. Like earned
I remember a commercial product sold on this very same premise about 30 or more years ago. It used a very tough cardboard wheel with polishing/buffing compound. I saw them sold at gun shows here in the US. I know for a fact they worked really well because a friend bought one.
A whetstone is always the best if you are willing to invest in good equipment and learn how to use it, but it's nice to have options for everyone else.
An old guy I knew told me about these back in the day (over 30 years ago). Then I saw a demo of one at the state fair. Found three at a thrift store several years later. Gave one to the old guy who told me about it. Then ruined one because the blade caught into the wheel like at 3:08 - that's a great tip in this video. I still have one left and plan on giving it another go. Besides the cardboard wheel, it came with a sandpaper grit wheel and several rubbing compound packs.
@@MrHellfinger what you describe is exactly the kit I remember being sold. They always had one in operation and would charge a few dollars to sharpen any knife, I would assume in hopes you would be impressed enough to just buy the sharpening wheels.
@@LoneWolfZ Those are called Paper Wheels!
Man, tried this at home, changed my life! Awesome!
I used this method years ago and it actually dulled my knife, but I fixed up the wheel and added the compound and tried again, it saw barely any progress but I kept going for another 15 minutes and it actually got pretty close to razor sharp, I found the problem which was the compound I was using was for leather and not that abrasive. Not to mention the blade's steel was a hard steel, so I bought the same brand of polishing compound and it worked. Cuts like butter.
Hopefully some one you found this helpful if you were having trouble
Had one for a while it really works .
Decent compound bar is the most important.
Used it on my £220 Falken knive and did a good job
Came across your video a few days ago and I had to try it out!!
After reading some of the reviews on here, I've come to the conclusion that I am a moe!
I did everything step by step as you did in video and I didn't get the same results as you or the viewers.
I don't know if the angle isn't correct or what but I've had no luck.
This was a great thing to make, I suck at stones still so when I need a knife sharpened, this is my go to
Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to film and edit it and of course for positing it for our benefit. Keep up the good work! -Migs
Ooooh this looks great. I have all the stuff and so many knives needing sharpening.
I have an ancient power drill that my dad bought a mount for. I have sanding/grinding wheels that I chuck into the drill to smooth jagged metal edges. I will make your setup and see how it works-it is simple, which I like.
Well done fella. Many of us have these polishers bur never consider them for tuning a great edge to our knives.
Great! I'm a person with many power tools at home, so building this setup is super easy for me and result is really fast and great! Thanks!
this is ingenious. looks like it took me 5 years to finally get this as a recommendation.
I was going to post a warning since this appears it could be coming around again. to be extremely careful when working with the rotating grinding stone because you could absolutely destroy a knife in seconds.
this method with using wood instead of a stone is ingenious and I can't wait to try it
I'd just like to point out, with this method, you're basically creating a big burr (By sharpening from the spine to the edge).
This big burr will mean that you can get your knife really sharp, but the edge will be dulled incredibly fast (it will require honing very very often). Many knifes just need honing or stropping to get sharp (replacing the bent burr into place). The longer the burr, the faster it will bend, this is why knifemakers sharpen from the edge to the spine.
I'm not saying this is a wrong thing to do, I just want to provide more information as tho who this technique is for. A knifemaker would not use this (unless they don't know what they are doing) and this will require frequent honing and sharpening to maintain the edge (far more frequent than one would normally).
If you don't know how to sharpen and don't want to learn, then this is for you.
-Knifemaker and blacksmith.
Karl Hurtubise wow. Imho this is nonsense. I don't know on which planet knifemaker sharpen from edge to spine, but not at the one i live. The burr won't get to long or even stay there forever, it will eventually rip of and break off of the edge, at least after cutting two or three times into some wood f.e. This happens on a microscopic level. You can easily watch this with a cheap USB microscope. There is absolutely no advantage by grinding from edge to spine. It's more the other way around! When you sharpen in the direction of the spine, small steel particles get pulled towards the spine, ripping small teeth into your edge, which make the edge rough. When steel is soft, a burr can get pulled under your edge, folding around it.
Watch Japanese chefs or traditional Japanese smiths how they sharpen knifes or swords. They do it from spine to the edge. And they do this for some longer time than any american. Your method has its truth when we talk about very rough grinding with low grit numbers, where the burr is still thick enough to hold on and bend. But when you grind with 3000 grit or more, the burr gets so incredibly thin, that it breakes or rippes of. Though this works only for hardened steel.
Karl Hurtubise i forgot one important point. When you grind a knife on a whetstone, you absolutely need that burr. Only with the burr you cam actually feel if you grinded long enough on one side of the knife, because it will only be feelable if you your grinded surface of the right angle reaches the tip of the edge. When you feel the burr you change sides, then use a lower grit and repeat until you feel that burr again. If you reached the finest wanted grid you can break the burr by grinding one stroke from edge to spine or you use a fine steel sharpener or a leather belt. The problem you mentioned really just occurs on a macroscopic, rough level, but not on a microscopic level on very fine abrasives.
by grinding or sharpening from spine to edge, you still create a burr, it is however a lot smaller. Japanese knife makers also sharpen from spine to edge on whetstones,they actually do a back and forth motion to discard any burr more efficiently. so I don't know at all where you get your info from.
Also, on a microscopic level, you always have a serration pattern, as it is exactly that that provides a cutting edge. Without serrations (although the finer they get, the better) you would only be able to cut with pressure, not with back and forth strokes. Those serrations are essential and the finer and more regular they are, the better the edge (other factors as angle and geometry also play a factor)
Usually, sharpening is done by pushing the edge in the stone, and then final stropping of the knife is done by drawing the edge on a strop.
Now your point about the ripping of small teeth into the edge is just exactly what grinding it does. With a 3000 grit stone, those channels are extremely tiny and will create the serrations needed. Whether it is steel particles or stone particles that create these channels, they will be the same size also. They are still created by sharpening from spine to edge anyway and those channels will be exactly equal, the only difference being the burr size (by pushing the edge into the stone, the burr is created from the very fine edge being pushed up with pression. Stropping (or honing ) is then needed in both methods to align the burr. The longer burr will bend more quickly and need re-stropping faster, it will also tend to chip off.
A very simple search on google will provide info in concordance with my view, and blacksmithing/knifemaking manuals also provide more info. Fyi: I've studied this, and I did it on this very planet.
Hey Karl... do you have a video that you can recommend for proper techniques for sharpening knives.
If you strop it on leather afterwards you Polish the burr off
When I first saw this video I thought you were just using a default bench grinder (Which would be pretty stupid), but as soon as I heard you mention the wooden wheel, I realized that you were ingenious.
[SP] SaeniOnline
[SP] SaeniOnline sorry but why would it be stupid if using a normal one? What does the wooden one do?
normal stone wheels are way to rough to sharpen knives
@@stalememe6407 Not true ! you just have to grind it on the side of the wheel
@@stalememe6407 they also heat up the steel too fast
That's perfect sir once you get it set up. Time of sharpening is my issue 1-2min. Ur done and it's always razor sharp in a matter of sec. That's what I like I use my son's Dremmel when I need too sharpen but now you have shown me the light thank you
Really cool!
+Grant Thompson - "The King of Random" thanks man!
Should we expect your video on the topic sometime next week? lol
Grant Thompson - "The King of Random" didn't expect you here
Hey grant that was a surprise would you do any videos like this with like knives and things like it
no fair he never checks out my videos xD
You can also turn a belt sander upside down(it helps if it has a locking trigger) and start with some fine grit sandpaper. Set it up the same way as the video ,so the belt is spinning away from you and sharpen the edge the same way. The way the belt goes around a roller can give chisels and knives a nice hollow grind.
Very well set up video. What you need, where to get it, how to use it, drawbacks, and for who specifically it is useful for. Can't say I have ever seen all those points addressed in one video especially one under 10min.
I mounted a hand drill on a vice and used an MDF disk with it. Even at medium speed the wheel worked great. Even a small bit of compound lasts a long time. A steady hand and a light touch works best. I agree with safety concerns though. Always position your self and hands so that if your knife or whatever you are sharpening slips, your tool and hands move away from the spinning disk. Haven't tried it with plywood yet but I will give it a try soon.
Just went to the Garage and made one!
Took me around half an our. Cut everything with the cnc, put it on and boom. Works like a charm. Thank you, I finally have sharp chisels again. And my pocket Knife is actually worth the name "knife" again.
cheers
CookingTasty lol
OK what is the diameter of the wheel. Have to go to community wood work shop to manufacture.
That depends on your grinder. I think mine was 120mm but yours could be bigger or (unlikely) smaller. Just measure the grinding stone that was on there and make it that size. You have to measure eather way because you need the diameter of the shaft on the grinder..
Where is mine
@@nils1953 Bigger may NOT be better. If you increase the diameter then you increase the risk of the wood breaking up under the increased forces exerted on the spinning wood. I wouldn't go any bigger than 150mm diameter because this seems to be safe.
Thank you friend the best explanation I have ever found on line! Greetings from California.
When I worked in a knife shop we used a similar method only thing is we had a clamp at a certain angle so it made it idiot proof. But awesome video bro!
it would be nice if you made a vid and showed us how that worked
Only thing I can add, WEAR EYE PROTECTION. Especially when you are sure you dont need it.
Unless you think you can see out of a glass eye.
So true, the simpler the job, the more confident you are & the more complacent you get......plus there's that damned ol fashion luck thing that plagues must of us back yard diy'ers because of our stubborn 'I can do anything myself' mindset
@@MrMd5555 yep, i spent christmas day in hospital with metal in my eye. uhmmmmm
And a dusk mask
Been using this type of sharpning for several years. It works extremely well. You can even get carbide lathe tools super sharp.
Mfd board works very well
Thank you for this second video. Very clear and concise. You spoke very fast too!
When you said the wooden disc can be cut by any tool, I tried to cut it with a screwdriver and had great difficulty. Could you make a video showing me how to do it. Thank you.
you have to sharpen the screw driver with the wheel first
Any cutting tool
precious sense of humour.
Even if you utilize this method to repair or prepare the edge for fine sharpening, it's a time saver and worth the set-up. Kudos
The only problem I've had with polishing edges of knives, is that the sharpness quickly wears away. I prefer a rough edge like a scalpel blade. The most important aspect is to get a good edge that can be deburred many times before a new edge needs to be created. For old school barber blade shaving, there's stropping. Of which, the method in the video is a more mechanical way of stropping. For pocket knives or kitchen knives you want a rougher edge that can grab the material that's being cut.
quick, concise and informative as usual. Keep it up
I like your style, which has just earned you my subscription.
Thanks for uploading!
So I tried this, and it works pretty well, but I just can't seem to get my knives shaving sharp. I have a couple theories as to why (other than just being bad at sharpening): I couldn't find silverline in the US, so I used the closest I could find: Woodstock D2902 1 lb Extra Fine Buffing Compound, Green. My plywood also had hidden holes in a couple of its layers which keep the polishing surface from being completely smooth.
Is it likely that those are the problem? If not, could you make/point me at a tutorial on how best to get that last bit of sharpness using this method?
Hi. The best way to sharpen your tools are the normal grindstones. It costs 15 minutes on the first sharpening. After that it costs you 10 seconds to sharpen it. On your problem might be the angle. Keep a 15 to 20 degree to sharpen your knife. Try getting a constant angle on both sides rather than trying to get the perfect angle. Get a 1000/500 sharpening stone and start to grind at an angle your finger could barely fit under with pressure on the blade. If your blade is dull use the rough side stone with alot of pressure to get a rough fit and then change to the smoother side to give the blade its needed sharpness. Advice...never go in dry , always water the stone before and give it a nice wet rub during the process. Its always a better outcome without machines unless you are a professional.
Another advice... use a grindstab after eher work to keep your knife sharp. Also never use soll or throw it in your dishwasher. Only clear water and a towel.
Jewelers, such as I am, use a cotton wheel. These wheels can be of various densities from a jeweler's supply shop and there are wheels that are dense that you can load with rouge.
they work wonders when you're trying to to put a shiny finish but when sharpening that give will screw the bevel geometry
we use leather wheels, they need some dressing and while they don't cost much for someone with dedication to sharpening, for a beginner that money may be better spent on a diamond flattening plate and some stones
so the plywood might be an acceptable substitute for a while
not shunning them at all tho, they put a mad shine on all the brass bits
(on a side note, the truly insane sharpeners end up using extremely high grit lapping compounds designed for optical lenses and do the whole thing by hand)
@@mindbreak666 A cotton wheel is not a sharpening tool. It's for polishing. I sharpen my hand plane blades to 16,000, which enables me to take shavings less than 0.001 of an inch and leaves the wood surface burnished to a near mirror surface.
You sound like you know what's up..
You sound like you know what's up..
This is a fantastic idea. I do believe I am going to get some leather and put in the wheel, then add the polishing compound to that. A spinning strop. Thank you so much for sharing this!!!
I’m a knife sharpener and I love this. You can use this on expensive knives. You just have to make sure your spleen is slower. You don’t want to over heat the metal for a long period of time.
Daymn. Remove the spleen?
The audio makes me feel like your giving away some sort grand secret.
I'm getting a sneaky cheating in the back of the classroom vibe as well 🤣
Just made this and sharpened my kitchen knives. Very cool! Some while ago I had a disk made of some hard but flexible resin or plastic - that one was easier to use, but the plywood also works well! Thank you!
Well presented & many thanks for sharing valuable tips & information.
Thanks buddy, this will be my new project to help finish my other project ... I have a katana sword that was in a bad condition and IV been taking the time to slowly but surely restore and bringit back from death, currently it shiny and in a really good condition compared to how it used to be however I have been doing it all with my hands and minimum machinery unless necessary , currently and in the sharpening process but because the blade it's self was removed for safety reasons it's taking a long time to file it down evenly and this gives my a idea a high power fan and a wood block with time I could create one of these but small enough to be fan size but powerful enough to get the job done and because it is simple I can easily place the fan blade back on when finished so I do t actually ruin the fan ( multi purpose fan ) I think am going to get the saw and drill out soon and make one my self ... Thanks for the information and I have to say it was detailed I assume I could leave the buffer chalk out but after your explanation on why it's a important factor i will be sure to get some of that too , excellent video , big thumbs up
i think this is a brilliant video. i'm forever sharpening knives, i have a set of sabatier and can never get a good edge. turning the grinder around is so obvious that i can't believe i didn't think of it. well done.
Fantastic idea, and a very clear and concise video. Great job.
From your tone of voice i gather that this is a secret. Dont worry i wont tell anyone
I told everyone 🤭
@@gordonconlogue5686 GORDON!!! shhhhh it's a secret!
Yes! A secret, or maybe a pretty emotional life story.
😀😂😀...
Been doing that for years almost identical to you and you are correct in everything you said. I use it mainly for pocket knives and kitchen knives. On my large hunting and fighting knives I use stones and leather. On my machettis I use a sander.
Two things to note. The rotation speed of the grinder cannot be too high. Depending on the wood used it could potentionally fly apart. If someone uses a Lathe, way too much speed can easily be achieved! Please beware.
Second, you don't necessarily have to turn around the grinder. If turned backwards as shown in the video, you can sharp above the grinding wheel. But if used normally, you just have to hold the Knoif Edge below the grinder.
Would it be better to have a variable speed bench grinder. Isn't it be bad to get too high of a temperature while sharpening ? Doesn't overheating damage the strength of the metal in the blade ?
Jack Taylor yes it can take the temper out of the metal and make it softer I would recommend doing this for a few seconds then dipping it in water to cool it as long as you don’t get it to hot to touch you should be fine
I so glad you mentioned the rotation of the wheel because the first thing that came to mind was the people that are going to die from trying this but do it wrong.
Thank you! This is brilliant. I wish there was a neat way to sharpen 'V' shaped lino-cutting tools (AKA Pfeill). I find it too difficult to maintain the complex edge. I imagine you would have some really inventive ideas....
I have been sharpening knives like this for more than 15 years. I always used an MDF wheel, because I had it lying around. It is the easiest and fastest way indeed. Never felt the need for using stones anymore.
Yo! This idea finally got taken and produced! I saw pretty much the exact same thing in the Lee Valley catalogue, going for CAD $110 for 8" and $140 for 10"
I love this and already have what I need to set it up.
I enjoy watching your clips. informative and simple. thank you.
Simple and right to the point. Thanks for that!
Glad to see someone online that admits to the public that whetstone honing takes considerable skill, especially concerning straight razors. I can sharpen my pocket and kitchen knives, but no luck with straight razors, and I have a Naniwa 1K, 12K, a Norton 4/8K, a DMT coarse to dress the Norton and several strops. Still no luck after 4 years on straight razors, and this is with quality one!:(-John in Texas
I really need to make this! I have tons of knives that are dull and I'm just too lazy to get around to it.
I want to do this also , I have everything but a quality piece of ply-wood !
Sharp Works I have a round tuit. You need to get one. Then you will always get around tu it.
I'm definitely going to try this. Just ordered a 6 inch bench grinder for just $10
Thanks for the video, made a wood wheel for my table saw and honed all my knives with it (working from the back side). Fastest way I've been able to bring the edges to scary sharp.
@koviack Well the broken parts will fly around at high speed.^^
So you should use a decent birch plywood, remove material to balance the wheel and use very little pressure.
It's also important to use the same diameter as the machine wheels so you won't introduce highly different forces that the grinder wasn't supposed to withstand.
@koviack Eye protection is recommended, obviously. Grind wheels can/do shatter (esp. in angle grinders) but I can't imagine a thick plywood wheel would disintegrate at this size/RPM. Lamination vastly improves resistance to cracking in a grained material like wood. I'll stick with the OP's dimensions anyway as he proved they work fine over a long time frame, so there is no need to alter them.
I made one today and since I am skilled that way I got a couple of cheap knives and tried it on them before using it on my good knives. Very effective and quick
Did this years ago. But I glued leather strips together. Even without the buffing compound, the leather works great. Just have to scrape it off after a few hours of use.
Depending upon the nature of the (steel) blade material, your sharpening the blade with a the wheel running away from you is that it lends itself to forming what I call a 'wire' edge. This means a thin bit of very sharp material that is indeed very sharp, but that is not robust, will, at the macrosopic level, break off after too few initial cuts. (Recall barbers with their leather strops; they wern't abrading steel away, they were working the wire-edge back and forth, and facilitating it's reformation... very sharp... very short lived.)
I
As an apprentice joiner, I was taught to strop chisels an plane blades on my palmI. You can also draw the edge through a corner of softwood.
Thank you, you said it better than I was going too. I forgot the less offensive term "wire edge", I still call it as it is, a burr, a really sharp burr, as all burrs are. Great for that broad head that'll be slicing through your deer, one time. But my kitchen knives are not burred edged. And when they don't perform, it's to the stone and then strop and they're good for another 6 months.
Tache said it best. Now I’ll subscribe and give you a high five! This is news I needed back in the 1960s when I was young. But I’ll be able to use this now for my last years. Gotta keep, keepin on!
You Aint old till you are done, only God makes that decision! I am 80 and still try to do as much as possible plus hit the gym three times a week. I am sure you are close to my age?
This seems like a great idea. I understand the safety consideration of rotating away from you, but what if you then also turn the knife around so the rotation is edge to spine? Yes OK if you cut into the wheel your wheel and/or knife is screwed but at least the knife will fly away from you, and it might conform better to sharpening theory that way. Also what type of buffing compound do you recommend? That would be the only item I need to buy.
Genius You Are!"
THANK YOU FRIEND!"
There’s 1 million experts out there. It would appear as though this method is very effective! Thanks!
At least someone is not doing Clickbait........
Mukesh Unlike the top comment.
TAOW: you there buddy?? What's with the making a pattern on the sharpening stone? Thanks.
Not TAOW, but I believe he's checking whether the surface is completely flat - if it's raised, the grid pattern will be worn away first in that area.
Charlie Bruce Thanks a lot, I see what your talking about. Have a good weekend!
They are clips from his whetstone video, you should check that one out too.
nilz23 Got it, thank, enjoy your weekend!
Have a look at the sharpening stones video, the link is in the description. I was basically making sure the stones were flat before I used them
I like his warning about people not being able to use power tools , that this can be dangerous .He just insulted 99.75 of his UA-cam viewer's . They comment on the video's but can't tie there own shoe's .
😆
So in Theory could I make a smaller version of the wheel for my Dremel. I was imagining it as a three inch oak dowel instead of a wheel
only thing you have to watch is you have a much smaller surface area and that piece of wood will heat up quick, which could also heat up the knife. If hot enough you could ruin the heat treat.
And if the wood gets hot, then cold, then hot, it could warp the wood and not know it which would inconsistently sharpen your knife.
You absolutely can do that with your dremel, just gotta keep these things in mind. Hit the knife with it, lift it off so it can cool for a sec, then back to the knife, repeat.
Have a good one man!
@@kevin.waldron good points🤔
I love sharpening knives. Thank you sir for your informative video....
When I saw the thumb nail I thought you would be using a paper wheel which are very good but quite expensive, it would never have occurred to me to use a plywood wheel. Thanks for sharing, if I can get it to work for me then you've saved me a considerable amount.
I’ve been using basically this method for around 2 years using an angle grinder and a wooden disc with a similar buffing compound. It’s less stable and requires a vice to work effectively, I definitely would prefer the method in the video if I had a bench grinder.
I never understood the hate on the last video
YeEpicTroll Because tbh it wasn't very lazy nor easy.
when you take into account wet stones are very pricey and it takes 30-45 mins (per blade) for someone who knows what they are doing with wet stones... his title makes sense...
frank furter Diamond stones are very good and is what I use.
Pinko I would agree, use them in the past they just don't last that long i find..
Something spinning at high speed is really not what you want put a blade to. A blade needs one split second of inattention to snag the wheel and it is anyone's guess as to where and how badly it it stabs you. This video is insane.
Honestly i've never witnessed plywood sharpening a knife before, interesting, and great to know. However this is the exact opposite of a "lazy man's" way of sharpening a knife. Lol✌️
I know im late, but the plywood only acts as a smooth, flat, undamaging surface for you to put the buffing compund onto.
The lazy mans way is to get some one else to do it. I know a lot of lazy people!
@kopfgeldjagar why
MDF is very popular for this technique.
Will a fidget spinner work ?
Thank you for a comprehensive look at this. I appreciate what you did here.
Excellent well paced information.
not.
and i highly recommend not to try this shit. i'm a friend of a good old "sharpening steel" - u get the knife same sharp, don't need any electricity and if u got a bit practise, u need only 20-30s.
sooo....the title of this upload is a lie. + your knifes will not live very long if u use a grinding wheel on them.
wkr,
~ a german toolmaker from daimler benz, class-best of a final exam