What an awesome layout you've got. Absolutely love it. I like how explained about the turnouts. I've been collecting track, rolling stock and have two Aristocraft U25 locomotives. I have an area 40'x75' for a layout. Still in the planning stage. Thank you for the information & sharing your video 👍
Thanks so much! Looking forward to seeing what you do with your space and collection! The U25Bs are decent engines and will give you years of good runs!
I like the track plan it's cool. Wish I had land like that lol. Knowing my goofy behind I would lay track on ground level to the right of the bridge cross the creek where the foot bridge is and bring it back around too much fun.
Thanks! Yes, 16ft dia is my recommendation for longer cars and body mounted couplers. I've had plenty of years though when 5ft diameter was as big as I could do.
You can press some brass tubbing over the outside of the plastic gear (where the axle presses in) to fix the cracked gear issue. I've done this to many
Have you done the 44 tonner truck specifically? I know this typically works most USA motor blocks, but it's been documented that you would have to modify the plastic housing on 44t to make room for the sleeves.....otherwise the gears no longer mesh.
That is a lot of work. Nice job. Wish I had property like that. I have a nice little collection of G scale trains and loads of track. From 1ft all the way to 5ft sections but have no where to set it up. My poor trains sit in the attic taking space. I hope to retire in a few years and sell my home for a new one somewhere far from New York where I currently live. (What a shit hole N.Y. turned into). Then maybe I will have space to do a garden railroad. I will subscribe. I want to see your progress.
Thanks so much! We have a pretty strong garden railway club here in southeastern NH, and we would be happy to see it grow! Best of luck with your planning.
I a,m new to the hobby. I have a couple questions, please? I am curious about how you deal with the power to the tracks when the weather has been wet. Do you have to wait until the powered track dries out before safely using the system? If I am not mistaken it is 24VDC? To power such a large system I assume you'd need something pretty hefty current capable. Would 10A be enough for getting power to the locomotive on such large systems? Do you have external fuses on the output of the power supply? Some switching supplies just shut down until the short circuit clears. I appreciate any information you can share. I am hoping to build something similar someday. I know I can experiment as I am building to answer those questions but it is great to learn from those who have already done so. In standing on the shoulders of others we gain from each generations? Maybe someone already documented all this, I will continue to research as well. Thank you for sharing this cool infrastructure.
For a very large railway (something over 200ft of track), I find it's really not practical to power the trains through the track at all. Instead, I retrofit the locomotives to accept Li-ion batteries and radio control onboard. Sometimes, I install the battery and RC directly within the locomotive, in other cases I dedicate special battery cars that can provide the power to locmotives indirectly. If you start off with track power, a 10 amp supply is a great idea. Most G scale trains have 18vdc motors, the only exception, I think, is LGB which come with 24vdc motors (even lgb will run fine at 18vdc) Any commercially available control system will have electronic protection, so there is no worry about the track being completely dry before running trains. That said, I'd avoid running in particularly wet conditions as it will dirty the rails and wheels temporarily reducing conductivity (until you clean it).
@@RockwallCanyonRR I watched a few videos tonight that discussed retrofitting trains to run off internal power. I guess it can really simplify several problems with open circuits, or even short circuits. I don't know if I can still accomplish that level though as I am losing my eyesight. I was just going to start out with the older technology while I still can. It seems using internal power with radio control and modern programmable logic is a really smart approach. I really love the idea of trying to avoid using high current low voltage in an environment exposed to elements with constantly troubleshooting intermittent connection problems due to corrosion or moisture. I am sure many experienced large scale experts do not want to go back to track power once they have converted. I guess modifying all your locomotives may be a challenging task too. Thank you very much for your insights.
@1STerminus With new track, you should get years of reliable track power regardless of the elements. If joint continuity becomes an issue later, you could add split jaw rail clamps to improve the connections between the rails. As to battery powered trains...there is a Piko small diesel that is factory equipped for battery power with a simple onboard RC system. If you wanted to outsource the installation on a different model you might consider RCS of New England. My friend Don Sweet is the owner, and has been doing professional installations upward of 30 years.
@@RockwallCanyonRR Hi Thanks again! I am starting out with a small indoor layout using all used G-scale components several sets with a lot of old steel track. I have quite a few 24V power supplies from 3D-Printers with a 15A rating. I found some schematics to wire up an analog controller with potentiometer and a manual break before make polarity switch (direction.) I am having problems with even light soldering now so I might need to find an assistant who can handle a soldering iron (an apprentice!) Very wishful thinking as I am in the middle of nowhere New Mexico. Since I just have a couple workbenches I will have to keep them small. I was going to make this my last fun project. I think it could be a race against time. Thanks for the cool system you built and for sharing it too. Keep your wheels on the tracks!
Great video! I do need some help if you can answer a quick question. I just purchased a massive, USA Trains, SD40-2. What is the smallest LGB Numbered Curve can this engine handle? I am moving up from the small starter tracks that are in the LGB sets and think this engine might not work on right curves.
Excellent choice! The Sd40-2 will require LGB R3 as an absolute minimum. With R3 it requires coupler adaptors to work. USA 10ft diameter would my minimum, and LGB R5 would be even better. If you cannot go larger than R3, it may be wise to stick with the LGB brand locomotives since they are designed to work on the tightest curves without performance side-effects.
@@RockwallCanyonRR outstanding answers. I will start rooting around for those Part Numbers. I work best with Part Numbers. That said this engine is AMAZING! First the price. I bought it at the NMRA Convention here in Dallas TX for a very fair price: $411.00. This engine is upwards of $435.00 and that would not even have shipping which would push it to $460.00 in some cases. Next is the detail. Wow! Really amazing. I love the huge three axel trucks. Last it is what I have wanted for many years. If you take a look at my tiny garden train layout it will take some planning to get her in there. My little layout was needing an expansion so this is the perfect reason to make it even bigger! Anyway I hope to do an "unboxing" and test drive soon.
@VictorianMaid99 I typically think LGB track is much better, but USA Trains provides this 10ft diameter curve size which falls between LGB R3 and LGB R5 curves. It's cheaper and may fit your space better than LGB R5. USA Trains track: R81700 10ft diameter curves R81720 switches R81725 switches
There is an easy way to sleeve the plastic axle gears with 3/8" brass tube and make them run like new for many years. Many USAT locos in my fleet are already fixed and run perfectly. If you want more information and picts, please contact me. Love your railroad also!!
Thanks Duke! Oh yes, I'm actually aware of the brass tube repair but was warned that the 44T motor block is a little tighter and may require removing some plastic to allow clearance for the sleeves to fit and still allow the gears to mesh properly. I already have the tube, so i'm going to give it a try anyways to solve this once and for all. Lol
Hi Duke, so I gave it a try last night and it worked out pretty well! No issues with the sleeve rubbing on the motorblock and the surging is almost gone entirely. I do have one axle with marginal gearing that are nearly worn out but still working. Another axle is still wobbling pretty heavily, but works. Ran for about 4 hours today!
@@RockwallCanyonRR I've had really great results from the way I sleeve mine using a small arbor press to get them straight and they run nice. I can send you picts through email or FB if you wish. I cut the brass on my small lathe to fit. A drill press would work in place of the arbor press.
@johnburk5087 I've owned a couple of LGB Moguls in the past and noticed similar issues. Rather than modify your track, my suggestion would be to swap out the wheels in the tender and cars to either LGB or Piko brand ball bearing wheelsets. This is especially helpful if you are pulling the LGB D&RGW-style coaches. Not only do the bb wheels reduce the normal drag, but they also can be used for lighting power pickup in coaches and caboose. I know they are expensive, but if your Mogul is regularly slipping, it's more likely that the gearing will fail prematurely, which would also be costly. As an added benefit, your other engines will live much happier lives as well!
ever thought of running vintage converted battery trains like New Bright, Echo,or Eztec/ Scientific Toys on the railroad? or would those require more work to get running?
Absolutely! You do have to be careful with some of the vintage New Bright trains as some of them are close, but not quite the same gauge as G scale. That said, they are quite popular with garden train folks. I'm really not sure how well they hold up on layouts with grades or longer trains. One of the issues they found with the older Bachamann Big Haulers (when used beyond the Christmas tree loop)...the motors would get hot and soften the motor mounts which then caused the gears to grind. I would say, if you approach with reasonable expectations you'll have good results. As to "vintage" quite a few of my "garden-grade" models such as Aristo craft diesels and cars are 30 years old and going strong. Even my USA trains GP9s are over 20 years old! I have LGB track and ties that have been outside well over 30 years.
@@RockwallCanyonRR All the more reason I won't use Plastic track outside because it's not UV resistant and would melt in the sun like a hot fudge sundae. as for New Bright rolling stock (and this even applies to their christmas counterparts) hit them with some UV clear coat and change the plastic trucks to those of metal with knuckle couplers. though with the engines that would take more than just UV clearcoat as the motor and gears would need moisture protection (Epoxy I think?) but I'm ditching the 6 C cell batteries that take to power them as I'm going with a single 7.4 volt cam corder battery with a charger. I may include Rail pro as well. (I'd be surprised if it can find images of New Bright and other 80/90's engines).
Thanks for all the info, great video! I have a question about laying parallel curved track. Can you lay a 20' half circle inside another 20' half circle? Is it big enough to have enough flexability for that? I would rather have parallel curved tracks 8" apart rather than a foot or two apart.
Thanks for the kind words Todd! If you're using sectional curved track you can loosen the ties by removing the underside screws on one rail to allow the rails to flex. Place on a flat surface and hand bend it either larger or smaller as needed. It will cause one rail to run a little long, but you can trim that with a dremel cut off wheel or hack saw. Otherwise you can use long flex track sections and a rail bender to produce the parallel curve. Flex track is often in short supply, so I do a little of both.
Thanks Sean! Yes I also like the Bachmann switch stand as well. Most of my switches use the LGB manual spring box. The railroad has many junior engineers, so having spring switches helps to cut down on major derailments. Engines and heavy cars will always spring through, but occasionally freight cars will still slip off if a switch is misaligned.
Thanks! On the ground level it's just by eye. I really lucked out with the patched siding where the rock was busted up. I never had to trim a single rail to make it fit! As to my elevated track...the spacing is that of a crossover of USA Trains #6 switches. That way I can add crossovers near the intermediate stations for more ops options!
Hi, I really appreciate your channel and you sharing various tips. All good and helpful - thank you. I'm curious about your technique for laying track floating on rock. While I realize ballast helps it stay in place, I've presumed G-scale track outdoors needs to be fixed to a permanent roadbed. Concrete, wood, something.. other than the obvious decking/trestles/etc, can you share more about your techniques when laying track at ground level? Do you have freeze/thaw/hot-cold cycles in your local climate? Do you have issues with track drifting? Thanks again
Hi Dave, So glad you like my videos! Yes, I've been floating G scale on crushed stone for many years. I find the best way to proceed is to start with a heavy woven "weed barrier." Much like on gravel pathways, this allows the base to be more consistent in freeze and thaw conditions. I then like to use 1-1/2in crushed stone to build up the roadbed. Next comes the track and some 1/2in stone which gets pressed under and around the ties. This is enough to work as-is, but I also like to go back and add a layer of 3/8in stone once everything has settled. This is more for looks than function as the smaller rock is closer to scale. In most cases this enough to keep the tracks together. However, in sunny spots, where the track moves more, I like to add 1 rail clamp to each joint. Since I'm not using the track for power, I don't find it necessary to clamp both rails. I do have cold and snowy weather here in New Hampshire, but for the most part, the cold, frost, and ice have less effect on the track than does the hot sun. I prefer to have the track floating, because even ladder framing can become out of alignment from frost. Making track geometry adjustments to floating track is as easy as lifting and repositioning the stone.
@@RockwallCanyonRR Thanks for sharing your process. I'm in the beginning stages and happy to hear that floating in/on ballast, of various sizes during the build-up works. The tips about rail-clamps also much appreciated - I have been contemplating how much/when/where to leverage them. And I can appreciate how a bed of crushed rock is easier to re-align vs permanently attachment to a substructure too, another good tip, thank you.
Thank you! I believe that section is pushing 6% in a few spots. Since its technically off the mainline, I decided to have a little fun with it. In this case, I was more concerned about achieving the 15in clearance at the overpass than the grade it required to get there. The end result is an visually amusing route, but definitely one with operating restrictions.
Thanks for watching! I've been enjoying your channel for awhile now! As to train control...I've been an Airwire guy right from when they first came out 20 years ago...much of it is still working great, and its all still compatible with even their newest items. I also use Railboss4+ on my passenger trains (and Thomas equipment) since this system has automated station stops. I'm not big into sound, so these systems work great for me...While you can add it to AW or RB, I think RailPro or Revo is probably more practical for sound.
@@RockwallCanyonRR I liked Airwire, easy to install. I never cared about sound till I heard railpro. Growing up with a train going through my back yard, I know what they’re supposed to sound like. No one got it right till raipro. Now I can’t run without it lol your layout is amazing, where are you located?
@@TheeFishGuy I completely agree on the Railpro sound quality! I used to work as a Trainman on a scenic railroad so my ears are particularly tuned as well! I admit they're getting very close! The horns and engine sounds are truly the best I've heard. Next they need to figure a way to configure the engine rev and motor whine to the actual current load on the decoder. Love to hear those 1st gen EMDs rev up and then down just as the traction motors start whining! I'm located in the seacoast area of New Hampshire. Where are you located?
@@RockwallCanyonRR I’m in north east Ohio. As per the notch up and such, if you set the load pertaining to how many cars you’re pulling it gets pretty close!
Wow this isn’t a garden railroad it’s a yard railroad empire. 👍
Thanks very much for the direct comparison of the Aristo/USAT No6 versus the LGB No5. Although similar, they are *very* different.
Love the size of your railroad, beautiful yard!
Thanks so much!
What an awesome layout you've got. Absolutely love it.
I like how explained about the turnouts. I've been collecting track, rolling stock and have two Aristocraft U25 locomotives. I have an area 40'x75' for a layout. Still in the planning stage.
Thank you for the information & sharing your video 👍
Thanks so much! Looking forward to seeing what you do with your space and collection! The U25Bs are decent engines and will give you years of good runs!
@@RockwallCanyonRR Glad to hear good about the U25B's.
Thank you 👍
I like the track plan it's cool. Wish I had land like that lol. Knowing my goofy behind I would lay track on ground level to the right of the bridge cross the creek where the foot bridge is and bring it back around too much fun.
Amerika is big! And your Trainsystem also. Verry nice🛠 job!
Greating from Middle of Germany🚂🤩👍
Thanks for making this! 16 foot minimum curves = wow!
Thanks! Yes, 16ft dia is my recommendation for longer cars and body mounted couplers. I've had plenty of years though when 5ft diameter was as big as I could do.
Some handy advice there re switch geometry, ta. That's one helluva layout too ! 👍👍
You can press some brass tubbing over the outside of the plastic gear (where the axle presses in) to fix the cracked gear issue. I've done this to many
Have you done the 44 tonner truck specifically? I know this typically works most USA motor blocks, but it's been documented that you would have to modify the plastic housing on 44t to make room for the sleeves.....otherwise the gears no longer mesh.
Yes I have done it. Just make sure the bushing is square not diamond when reinstalling the axle and it works just fine
That is a lot of work. Nice job. Wish I had property like that. I have a nice little collection of G scale trains and loads of track. From 1ft all the way to 5ft sections but have no where to set it up. My poor trains sit in the attic taking space. I hope to retire in a few years and sell my home for a new one somewhere far from New York where I currently live. (What a shit hole N.Y. turned into). Then maybe I will have space to do a garden railroad.
I will subscribe. I want to see your progress.
Thanks so much! We have a pretty strong garden railway club here in southeastern NH, and we would be happy to see it grow! Best of luck with your planning.
"What's wrong with the new diesel?"
"He has a toothache!"
I a,m new to the hobby. I have a couple questions, please? I am curious about how you deal with the power to the tracks when the weather has been wet. Do you have to wait until the powered track dries out before safely using the system? If I am not mistaken it is 24VDC? To power such a large system I assume you'd need something pretty hefty current capable. Would 10A be enough for getting power to the locomotive on such large systems? Do you have external fuses on the output of the power supply? Some switching supplies just shut down until the short circuit clears. I appreciate any information you can share. I am hoping to build something similar someday. I know I can experiment as I am building to answer those questions but it is great to learn from those who have already done so. In standing on the shoulders of others we gain from each generations? Maybe someone already documented all this, I will continue to research as well. Thank you for sharing this cool infrastructure.
For a very large railway (something over 200ft of track), I find it's really not practical to power the trains through the track at all. Instead, I retrofit the locomotives to accept Li-ion batteries and radio control onboard. Sometimes, I install the battery and RC directly within the locomotive, in other cases I dedicate special battery cars that can provide the power to locmotives indirectly.
If you start off with track power, a 10 amp supply is a great idea. Most G scale trains have 18vdc motors, the only exception, I think, is LGB which come with 24vdc motors (even lgb will run fine at 18vdc) Any commercially available control system will have electronic protection, so there is no worry about the track being completely dry before running trains. That said, I'd avoid running in particularly wet conditions as it will dirty the rails and wheels temporarily reducing conductivity (until you clean it).
@@RockwallCanyonRR I watched a few videos tonight that discussed retrofitting trains to run off internal power. I guess it can really simplify several problems with open circuits, or even short circuits. I don't know if I can still accomplish that level though as I am losing my eyesight. I was just going to start out with the older technology while I still can. It seems using internal power with radio control and modern programmable logic is a really smart approach. I really love the idea of trying to avoid using high current low voltage in an environment exposed to elements with constantly troubleshooting intermittent connection problems due to corrosion or moisture. I am sure many experienced large scale experts do not want to go back to track power once they have converted. I guess modifying all your locomotives may be a challenging task too. Thank you very much for your insights.
@1STerminus With new track, you should get years of reliable track power regardless of the elements. If joint continuity becomes an issue later, you could add split jaw rail clamps to improve the connections between the rails.
As to battery powered trains...there is a Piko small diesel that is factory equipped for battery power with a simple onboard RC system. If you wanted to outsource the installation on a different model you might consider RCS of New England. My friend Don Sweet is the owner, and has been doing professional installations upward of 30 years.
@@RockwallCanyonRR Hi Thanks again! I am starting out with a small indoor layout using all used G-scale components several sets with a lot of old steel track. I have quite a few 24V power supplies from 3D-Printers with a 15A rating. I found some schematics to wire up an analog controller with potentiometer and a manual break before make polarity switch (direction.) I am having problems with even light soldering now so I might need to find an assistant who can handle a soldering iron (an apprentice!) Very wishful thinking as I am in the middle of nowhere New Mexico. Since I just have a couple workbenches I will have to keep them small. I was going to make this my last fun project. I think it could be a race against time. Thanks for the cool system you built and for sharing it too. Keep your wheels on the tracks!
All I can say is: NICE. I'm quite envious.
Thank you so much!
Great video! I do need some help if you can answer a quick question. I just purchased a massive, USA Trains, SD40-2. What is the smallest LGB Numbered Curve can this engine handle?
I am moving up from the small starter tracks that are in the LGB sets and think this engine might not work on right curves.
Excellent choice! The Sd40-2 will require LGB R3 as an absolute minimum. With R3 it requires coupler adaptors to work. USA 10ft diameter would my minimum, and LGB R5 would be even better. If you cannot go larger than R3, it may be wise to stick with the LGB brand locomotives since they are designed to work on the tightest curves without performance side-effects.
@@RockwallCanyonRR outstanding answers. I will start rooting around for those Part Numbers. I work best with Part Numbers.
That said this engine is AMAZING! First the price. I bought it at the NMRA Convention here in Dallas TX for a very fair price: $411.00. This engine is upwards of $435.00 and that would not even have shipping which would push it to $460.00 in some cases.
Next is the detail. Wow! Really amazing. I love the huge three axel trucks.
Last it is what I have wanted for many years. If you take a look at my tiny garden train layout it will take some planning to get her in there. My little layout was needing an expansion so this is the perfect reason to make it even bigger!
Anyway I hope to do an "unboxing" and test drive soon.
@VictorianMaid99 That was a great buy on the SD40! Looking forward to seeing what you do with the layout!
@VictorianMaid99
I typically think LGB track is much better, but USA Trains provides this 10ft diameter curve size which falls between LGB R3 and LGB R5 curves. It's cheaper and may fit your space better than LGB R5.
USA Trains track:
R81700 10ft diameter curves
R81720 switches
R81725 switches
@@RockwallCanyonRR I think you are correct about LGB Track. It holds up better outdoors
There is an easy way to sleeve the plastic axle gears with 3/8" brass tube and make them run like new for many years. Many USAT locos in my fleet are already fixed and run perfectly. If you want more information and picts, please contact me. Love your railroad also!!
Thanks Duke! Oh yes, I'm actually aware of the brass tube repair but was warned that the 44T motor block is a little tighter and may require removing some plastic to allow clearance for the sleeves to fit and still allow the gears to mesh properly. I already have the tube, so i'm going to give it a try anyways to solve this once and for all. Lol
Hi Duke, so I gave it a try last night and it worked out pretty well! No issues with the sleeve rubbing on the motorblock and the surging is almost gone entirely. I do have one axle with marginal gearing that are nearly worn out but still working. Another axle is still wobbling pretty heavily, but works. Ran for about 4 hours today!
@@RockwallCanyonRR I've had really great results from the way I sleeve mine using a small arbor press to get them straight and they run nice. I can send you picts through email or FB if you wish. I cut the brass on my small lathe to fit. A drill press would work in place of the arbor press.
My LGB mogul can’t climb more the 1-1/2% grade without slipping on a curve. Do steeper grades need to be only on straight sections?
@johnburk5087 I've owned a couple of LGB Moguls in the past and noticed similar issues. Rather than modify your track, my suggestion would be to swap out the wheels in the tender and cars to either LGB or Piko brand ball bearing wheelsets. This is especially helpful if you are pulling the LGB D&RGW-style coaches. Not only do the bb wheels reduce the normal drag, but they also can be used for lighting power pickup in coaches and caboose. I know they are expensive, but if your Mogul is regularly slipping, it's more likely that the gearing will fail prematurely, which would also be costly. As an added benefit, your other engines will live much happier lives as well!
ever thought of running vintage converted battery trains like New Bright, Echo,or Eztec/ Scientific Toys on the railroad? or would those require more work to get running?
Absolutely! You do have to be careful with some of the vintage New Bright trains as some of them are close, but not quite the same gauge as G scale. That said, they are quite popular with garden train folks. I'm really not sure how well they hold up on layouts with grades or longer trains. One of the issues they found with the older Bachamann Big Haulers (when used beyond the Christmas tree loop)...the motors would get hot and soften the motor mounts which then caused the gears to grind. I would say, if you approach with reasonable expectations you'll have good results. As to "vintage" quite a few of my "garden-grade" models such as Aristo craft diesels and cars are 30 years old and going strong. Even my USA trains GP9s are over 20 years old! I have LGB track and ties that have been outside well over 30 years.
@@RockwallCanyonRR All the more reason I won't use Plastic track outside because it's not UV resistant and would melt in the sun like a hot fudge sundae. as for New Bright rolling stock (and this even applies to their christmas counterparts) hit them with some UV clear coat and change the plastic trucks to those of metal with knuckle couplers. though with the engines that would take more than just UV clearcoat as the motor and gears would need moisture protection (Epoxy I think?) but I'm ditching the 6 C cell batteries that take to power them as I'm going with a single 7.4 volt cam corder battery with a charger. I may include Rail pro as well. (I'd be surprised if it can find images of New Bright and other 80/90's engines).
Thanks for all the info, great video! I have a question about laying parallel curved track. Can you lay a 20' half circle inside another 20' half circle? Is it big enough to have enough flexability for that? I would rather have parallel curved tracks 8" apart rather than a foot or two apart.
Thanks for the kind words Todd! If you're using sectional curved track you can loosen the ties by removing the underside screws on one rail to allow the rails to flex. Place on a flat surface and hand bend it either larger or smaller as needed. It will cause one rail to run a little long, but you can trim that with a dremel cut off wheel or hack saw. Otherwise you can use long flex track sections and a rail bender to produce the parallel curve. Flex track is often in short supply, so I do a little of both.
Great info and great examples ... Thanks ..I'm guessing all the switches are manual .. I use the Bachman switch stand for my #6's ..
Thanks Sean! Yes I also like the Bachmann switch stand as well. Most of my switches use the LGB manual spring box. The railroad has many junior engineers, so having spring switches helps to cut down on major derailments. Engines and heavy cars will always spring through, but occasionally freight cars will still slip off if a switch is misaligned.
really cool. yout double mains appear to be perfectly spaced from each other. any tricks on this?
Thanks! On the ground level it's just by eye. I really lucked out with the patched siding where the rock was busted up. I never had to trim a single rail to make it fit! As to my elevated track...the spacing is that of a crossover of USA Trains #6 switches. That way I can add crossovers near the intermediate stations for more ops options!
Excellent and looking forward to the extra track mods 👍
Thank you! I think the big changes will come in about 2 weeks!
Hi, I really appreciate your channel and you sharing various tips. All good and helpful - thank you. I'm curious about your technique for laying track floating on rock. While I realize ballast helps it stay in place, I've presumed G-scale track outdoors needs to be fixed to a permanent roadbed. Concrete, wood, something.. other than the obvious decking/trestles/etc, can you share more about your techniques when laying track at ground level? Do you have freeze/thaw/hot-cold cycles in your local climate? Do you have issues with track drifting? Thanks again
Hi Dave, So glad you like my videos! Yes, I've been floating G scale on crushed stone for many years. I find the best way to proceed is to start with a heavy woven "weed barrier." Much like on gravel pathways, this allows the base to be more consistent in freeze and thaw conditions. I then like to use 1-1/2in crushed stone to build up the roadbed. Next comes the track and some 1/2in stone which gets pressed under and around the ties. This is enough to work as-is, but I also like to go back and add a layer of 3/8in stone once everything has settled. This is more for looks than function as the smaller rock is closer to scale. In most cases this enough to keep the tracks together. However, in sunny spots, where the track moves more, I like to add 1 rail clamp to each joint. Since I'm not using the track for power, I don't find it necessary to clamp both rails. I do have cold and snowy weather here in New Hampshire, but for the most part, the cold, frost, and ice have less effect on the track than does the hot sun. I prefer to have the track floating, because even ladder framing can become out of alignment from frost. Making track geometry adjustments to floating track is as easy as lifting and repositioning the stone.
@@RockwallCanyonRR Thanks for sharing your process. I'm in the beginning stages and happy to hear that floating in/on ballast, of various sizes during the build-up works. The tips about rail-clamps also much appreciated - I have been contemplating how much/when/where to leverage them. And I can appreciate how a bed of crushed rock is easier to re-align vs permanently attachment to a substructure too, another good tip, thank you.
I'm missing the diamond crossings and the curved switches...
Tremendous! What is the grade of the mountain bypass? This is so informative, thank you!
Thank you! I believe that section is pushing 6% in a few spots. Since its technically off the mainline, I decided to have a little fun with it. In this case, I was more concerned about achieving the 15in clearance at the overpass than the grade it required to get there. The end result is an visually amusing route, but definitely one with operating restrictions.
What are you using to control your trains?
Thanks for watching! I've been enjoying your channel for awhile now! As to train control...I've been an Airwire guy right from when they first came out 20 years ago...much of it is still working great, and its all still compatible with even their newest items. I also use Railboss4+ on my passenger trains (and Thomas equipment) since this system has automated station stops. I'm not big into sound, so these systems work great for me...While you can add it to AW or RB, I think RailPro or Revo is probably more practical for sound.
@@RockwallCanyonRR I liked Airwire, easy to install. I never cared about sound till I heard railpro. Growing up with a train going through my back yard, I know what they’re supposed to sound like. No one got it right till raipro. Now I can’t run without it lol your layout is amazing, where are you located?
@@TheeFishGuy I completely agree on the Railpro sound quality! I used to work as a Trainman on a scenic railroad so my ears are particularly tuned as well! I admit they're getting very close! The horns and engine sounds are truly the best I've heard. Next they need to figure a way to configure the engine rev and motor whine to the actual current load on the decoder. Love to hear those 1st gen EMDs rev up and then down just as the traction motors start whining!
I'm located in the seacoast area of New Hampshire. Where are you located?
@@RockwallCanyonRR I’m in north east Ohio. As per the notch up and such, if you set the load pertaining to how many cars you’re pulling it gets pretty close!
@@TheeFishGuy ohh I wasn't aware of that?? I still have new AW boards to install...I'm going to pretend that feature doesn't exist yet ;););)
nice 👍🏻
Awesome work great layout