Thanks, Paul. My brain gets tired but fortunately the 3D printer doesn't complain - it's been really busy recently. Thanks for watching. Best wishes, James
Thanks, Paul. Yes, the possibilities with 3D printing seem endless and it's a fun way to explore creative ideas. Thanks for watching. All the best, James
Hello James, you definitely are a person who thinks outside of the box! I think your idea is amazing, much more accurately controllable and far more prototypical. It's a shame the manufacturers of some of this rubbish don't sit down with someone like yourself and manufacture a product that works well, such as this. I really enjoyed this video, especially the comedy section with the plaster! I'm sure it will heal up soon. Great video as always.
Hello Phil, thank you so much for your positive comments and encouragement. I'd love it if a manufacturer wanted to work with me! It would be much better than my day job : ) Thanks for watching. Best wishes, James
That's fantastic. I've been using servos mounted with the axis parallel to the rails, using the sloppy-bearing-and-piano-wire method (actually a paperclip usually). Quite compact but relies on software to not drive the servo too far. This slip-eccentric method is very elegant, if there's space!
Very cool mechanism James. The bar in brass will of course pose a difficulty on what material you’re going to use as the rods between bar and blades. Can imagine that would also be best in brass. However, then you’ll bridge the rails into a short. Can imagine two brass tubes over a rod and a plastic flange in the middle, in the same diameter as the tube, would do the trick. Can also mean your parts can be made adjustable for different gauges. And the two pieces of brass tubes can then be identical, which would make production more easy and cheaper. Also am curious to what kind of visual throw bar you will come up with between the sleepers. Can imagine the path of travel could become even smoother when a kind of throw bar is added. Not to say, that such a throw bar would further enhance the realism of the model turnout. Last but not least, for complicated turnout placement; this kind of mechanism would really improve turnout functioning over longer distances also.
James . A very neat solution to the perennial problem of point operation. I have used Dingo servo mounts for several years and they have the advantage of having microswitch incorporated to switch frog polarity etc. Looking forward to next video. Pete
Hi James, Another fine video just uploaded, I agree with the below comments you have made a good point operating system - well done. Like your approach to all aspects on the model. Do see it has been stated that the real point control does have a tie bar fitted to maintain the track gauge in the turn out & assume your quest for detail will add this. First picked up these videos from RM Web on your Templot tutorial which to me really helped my understanding on that subject. thanks Peter
Given the interest this has created, I intend to sell an improved version in my shop - details coming soon! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Best wishes, James
What you've done is similar to how I operate my point work, but yours is much neater. I use a C&L mechanism to operate the point blades and this is connected to to the servo mounted on a MERG servo mount by a adjustable brass rod {adjustable turnbuckle}. Two brass tubes go from the C&L unit to just underneath the point. The tie bar attached to the point blades is from a Masokit etch which folds up into a fairly realistic looking tie bar. I then have two more brass brass tubes that are soldered to the tie bar that are just shy of the tubes from the C&L unit. Two long brass pins pass through the tubes from the tie bars into the tubes attached to the C&L unit. The whole set up is screwed to a piece of wood which is then screwed to the underneath of the baseboard. Your design is much more compact. I wish your ones were available when I was doing my layout. LOL. I use Megapoints to control the point work and signals via a lever frame.
Hi James, You've set yourself an incredible amount of work! If this doesn't work out for you I would try a purely mechanical arrangement based on prototypical operation at the time! Thanks for uploading.
I like a challenge, and for me it's more about the journey than the destination so I quite expect this project to take many years to complete. Ultimately, the mechanisms will be operated by a mechanically interlocked lever frame which will control the electronics. I have started to design this but I need to speak with a S&T expert to confirm that I understand the principles of prototypical operation. It's all a bit beyond me at the moment. Thanks for watching, James
@@BexhillWest Since you are scratch building I would seriously consider going down to 3mm scale. Peco produces an excellent range of track for this gauge called HOm. If you go for TT gauge you can leave all the problems you had with OO Gauge, EM and Protofour in the past! All you've got to do is scale Bexhill West down a bit on the computer! For inspiration, here is Garry Hall's TT scale layout featuring an SR Class C2. If you go for this you will have a lot more of Bexhill West in the available space! ua-cam.com/video/-NVAtw6SRX0/v-deo.html
Hi James, DCC Train automation already sell these. MTB MP1,5,6 and now I think they have a new MP10 out. They have the eccentric to effect a linear reciprocating motion but you could add your brass bar and twin prong set up (which is much more elegant than the single pin through the tie bar hole). They have switches built into them too for frog and signal switching. David.
HI David, the design of these has progressed since this video was made., and I'm now selling a more developed version through my online store. The main difference between my offering and the DCC train automation version is that mine use servos which suits what I am doing. Thanks for watching, James
Hello James, what an absolutely ingenious idea, the thumb injury was worth it! I love the fact it houses the servo as well thus creating a single unit. Given your track record in the "quest for perfection" I feel it won't be long until the cable tie is made redundant as a means of securing the servo place🤔
Thank you Nick. You will be pleased to hear that the cable tie has been made redundant and I've reduced the number of parts to make this even simpler. Stay tuned for the update : ) Best wishes, James
Great idea, but have you considered that you will need microswitches for both the frog polarity and the interlocking on the Arduino. EG. the Arduino will need to know in which direction the points are set at power on and for signalling. You haven't included anywhere to mount them. Probably, at the far end of the push bar would be the best place, although horizontal pins on the push bar could be used to operate the microswitches.
Hi Henry, I wasn't going to use micro switches in my application, I had other ideas. But, as lots of people have shown an interest in this, I've created a MK 2 with a switch. Stay tuned for my next video when I'll present the idea. All the best, James
Brilliant idea, and it works! I could see it being used as a door lock mechanism for security doors, windows or even safes if built large and in metal, too animate items on a layout or shuffle cards (maybe not). I particularly like its low profile and the use of 3d printing. Don't forget to patent it or the big boys across the pond will steal it and claim the glory.
@@BexhillWest James, you can be assured the "big boys" watch us little blokes with ideas very closely. The designers of Ugg Boots in Oz thought that they were too small to bother the anyone until they exported to the USA and they lost their lawsuit when an American company patented their Ugg design and effectively stole it.
It's really nice, but two things. One, it looks expensive, and or time consuming. We have adapted to servo control because it is "cheap". Two, when you have scores, or in some cases hundreds of turnouts, you have a ton of wires running through your layout. One way I mitigate that is using controller boards like the "Jack Wabbit", DigiTrax DS74, etc, that are addressed from the track bus. Still, it is a mitigation and not solution. Ideally, we can come up with turnouts that tie directly into the track bus, without any mediators. A servo with it's own "mini" decoder, that would tie directly to the local bus would be perfect. It would save the wire bulk that clutters up modern layouts, as well as add to their complexity.
Hi James, That's an interesting solution to be able to move the points. I wish there was something like that available for when I made mine which I ended up using the copperclad method. I found mounting stuff like that underneath a right pain with having fixed baseboards though trying to get it lined up straight. Btw If you make that whole bar brass then you will just create a short when it's connected to the rails? Cheers, Michael
Hi Michael, you're right about creating a short. I had other ideas for connecting this lot to the rails which would have avoided the short but have since refined the design. I'd be pleased to hear your thoughts after the next video. Thanks for watching, James
@@BexhillWest - What about a thick metal pin glued into 2 plastic tube ends? That way stronger than just plastic (or resin) but avoids the short. Similar to a split axle.
Great idea, very inventive, but to replace the plastic rod with a brass rod would cause polarity issues........your videos are really worthwhile watching, thanks.
Thank you very much, I realised my mistake after posting the video. Have you seen my revised design? I've done away with the bar altogether. Thanks for watching, James
Very Nice solution, if the printed slide bar proves to be unsuitable, I'd use a nylon bar, with syringe tubes for the risers. The point blades each having a piano wire attached to the blade, the wire then being threaded into the syringe tubes. This would retain electrical isolation between the blades, and easy removal / refitting of the point motor assembly. The wires could protrude below the base board, the tubes extending to almost touching blade. Hope that makes sense.
Very interesting approach! And easily adjustable, since you have your own 3D printer. On a somewhat related note, I remember watching a video by rcgrabbag, with some home-made turnouts on a bridge, for which he had to route the actuators far away from their location - maybe it could be of interest to you, too. Like having a "real life" signal and switching box. 🙂 Cheers
Thats a very good idea and workable. Might be a problem with its length should you have Two points side by side. Another handy addition might be to add a raised section on the operating bar to operate one or two micro switches for frog polarity etc. I know you like to do your own thing having watched you from the beginning but there is something on a similar basis made by Dingo Servo Mounts. A system I have used and is extremely effective.
Thank you so much for your feedback. I have had similar thoughts and this mechanism has now been redesigned and will feature in my next video. Thanks for watching, James.
Firstly, I have not made any point motors at all, so just uniformed observations. The horizonal motion will require a slot in your baseboard rather than a single hole. Concealing a slot may be more difficult than a hole. As you are going to A LOT of effort to get Bexhill to look right are you going to be happy with the result. If there is a likelihood of the pin between the bar & the sheaf falling out you could try an old Russian tank trick of having a ramp that knocks the pin back in every time it moves. Inside the Chieftain's Hatch: T-34-85, Episode 1 Shows this, about 5 minutes in. These things aside, that’s a nice design of mechanism you’ve got there; would you put them in your store?
Hi Chris, A single hole will work and I plan having a little filler piece to cover the hole which will prevent the ballast dropping through as well. I shall check out the video - sounds interesting. Thanks for watching, James
Hi James, a neat solution , as always, could also be used to animate sliding doors and it strikes me that with a little modification (dual cams on one servo) could actually be attached to a pair of sliding doors, my one area of concern is the pins you are going to use to link to the tie bar, they are going to I suspect be quite fine so the question is will you mount the unit directly to the underside of the turnout or below the baseboard ? If it's under the baseboard use some wire with a bit of spring in it maybe ? Then a tiny amount of over travel at each end will get the spring of the wire to hold the blade tight against the side rail on each side
Hi David, these are all great observations which add to the great feedback on here. Taking all of this on board, I've come up with a new version which I think is even better. I agree with your observation about animating sliding doors and have already made a little list of potential uses and modifications for the basic idea. All the best, James
Brilliant solution James, one quick note, maybe use a wooden dowel for the pins to go into rather than brass/3D printed plastic as the dowel will be consistently straight over such a very short distance and avoids any electrical issues. Just my thoughts but, yes, very impressed. Will you be making these available to buy as I am going to require rather a lot and I too want to use servos. Thanks.
Thanks, Paul. Yes, I will be making these available but I've designed a revised version which I think addresses your observations. Stay tuned for my next video when I shall explain all! Thanks for watching, James
I've always found turnout actuation to be one of the biggest grey areas - so many people have so many opinions when it comes to how to handle it with hand laid track, and almost none of them are novice friendly, frequently referring to old hardware, discontinued products, etc. - this looks wonderful. Is the idea to solder the actuating pins to the bottom of the blades and then drop them through the holes in the operating bar? Or maybe the operating bar has small ID tube that the soldered droppers slot into? I'm half and half whether to go with mechanical or electrical point switching, but it looks like the same mechanism would work fine with wire-in-tube or crank rods also. I personally would buy six or even of these assuming the TOU-to-blades config is settled?
Hi William, I am going to detail the actual connection in my next video which should answer your questions a little more comprehensively so stay tuned! All the best, James
A very elegant design James! I am curious about the connection between the points and the throw rod via the pins. If the throw rod and presumably the pins are made from brass, then how are you planning to prevent a short circuit? The prototype would use an insulated throw rod to avoid shunting the track circuit. Very interested in seeing how your design evolves.
Hi Jeffrey, I was going to save that connection for a later video but have now redesigned and simplified the device to reduce the risk of short circuiting. I am going to cover it in my next video and I'd be pleased to hear your thoughts on the MK2 version. Thanks for watching, James.
Good idea, and possible solution, but if seeking perfection, does your track work look " prototypical " point blade's have a tie bar for a reason which could reduce the need for two pins going to each blade ? Something to consider ?
Hi James, For some time I’ve been wondering whether it would be possible to control turnouts/points using servos attached directly to the underside of the sleepers. Your solution using a sliding bar is ingenious, but your prototype looks rather large. Though I haven’t developed the idea, I thought it might be possible to use a gear fitted to the servo to drive a toothed bar attached to the points switching blades. While this would keep the entire mechanism small, it would require a relatively large hole in the baseboard - relative to the conventional approach, that is. In my case, I’m using an insulation material (Kingspan) under the track, so a larger hole than normal would not be a problem. Of course, to allow for ballasting, the underside of the sleepers would need something to prevent the ballast disappearing through the hole - even paper glued to the sleepers would do. I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this potential solution. Stay safe. Stephen
Hi Stephen, the sliding bar idea is great although not mine. It seems to be common practice among P4 modellers. The aspect of this is the eccentric to control it, I've not seen it done before. I completely agree with your comments about my prototype being large and to rectify this, I have redesigned it into a much smaller package which I'll feature in my next video. It takes the concept to the next level which I think will interest some people. Best wishes, James
Hi Peter, I hadn't originally intended to sell these but have come up with a revised MK 2 version which I think is much better. If there's interest, then yes of course! Thanks for watching, James
Hi Bruce, I’ve just released an update video which shows the electronic control board I am using in some detail. You can see it here: ua-cam.com/video/HfyN7Z_CxPY/v-deo.html Thanks for watching, James
No such thing as 'P4 Gauge' 😋 It's a track n wheel standard. You can have P4 Narrow, Standard or Broad Gauge but 'P4 Gauge' makes no sense. I guess if you type it under the assumption it's standard gauge then it'd imply the 18.83mm minimum gauge but as a title doesn't really work. 🤣 Pretty cool invention, always loved your custom work. It's all bangin' top notch high tier quality. 👍 Always found this area difficult on the P4 layout I built (doesn't exist now although will do another) Got a few vids to catch up on as not watched last few. Good stuff.
Hi, thanks for the feedback. I stand corrected. 18.83mm gauge is of course what I meant to say! Thank you for your kind comments - I think you will like the development of this that will be in my next video. Best wishes, James
@@BexhillWest - No probs, hope I didn't come across as a twerp yet was unsure how to type it! Was watching your vids a lot last year then stopped for some unknown reason, started again recently. The station building you scrapped n redid is phenominally good quality. Looking forward to more. 🙂
Ha ha, consider your self told off. ( most serious railway modellers know that P4 and for that matter S4 refer to 4 mm to the ft scale modelling using a track gauge of 18.833 mm) Regards Barry
Well, frankly I'm really disappointed that you haven't found a way to move a 1:76 scale signalman's arm to throw a lever, which operates the entirely functional 1:76 scale point rodding etc. 🤣 Seriously, though, that's a very elegant solution. There's always something ridiculously satisfying about watching an eccentric thingie rotating. But I'm not sure how you're going to connect it to what I've always thought was the tie bar, but which I think is properly called the stretcher bar, to transfer the movement to the point blades. Are you taking two rods up vertically through slots in the baseboard to connect to (or to be) the tie/stretcher bar? Would the parts of the eccentric movement not be better cast/etched in metal than plastic? Would add massively to the cost though, I'd guess.
That is true, however at the time I started building my track the C&L ready to lay track didn't have keyed chairs, nor do the Exactoscale bases. However, C&L have recently introduced some excellent keyed flexitrack which I do intend to use for the Goods Yard. Thanks for watching, James
If you are referring to the working prototype James demonstrated, I think there should be two slots were the pins go that have been omitted which will allow the unit to be secured to the underside as shown earlier on the CAD demo.
Locking mechanism - yes, the usual model railway ones look wrong - would you like to see pics of german metric gauge ones for comparsion and doing them better by yourself? ~3:30 Very theoretical, if the viewer does not have a pic of the real thing to look at -> yes, when you got illustrative material showing going to be better. Yes, two pins on the side "camouflaged" as the connection from the rod to the blades. Not T-bar. The piano wire acts as a spring pressing the blades onto the outer rails, too. Servo + semaphore signal + Andrino -> look into semaphore bouncing 😉 ~16:30 You already know that I am against radio control. - BUT - Yes, the turnouts and signals independent from locomotives (feed by the rails) for federal control, for when layouts join modular up to one very big layout (that would be season 3 or even 4 - I guess). ~17:10 depends on the search words; "H0fine Weichenantrieb" for example brings some results, as well as ship and plane modellers often got similar solutions as they usually go the servo way. Crane needs ⛓ and 🪝😶🌫
Put very simply, you are a genius.
That's very kind. Best wishes, James
Wow great video you put together.Hope to see more.
Thanks for watching!
Best wishes, James
I see both your brain and 3d printer getting a workout.. exceptional!
Thanks, Paul. My brain gets tired but fortunately the 3D printer doesn't complain - it's been really busy recently.
Thanks for watching.
Best wishes,
James
Hi James. I love the innovative idea behind it all and the magic that can be performed via 3D printing - well done.
Thanks, Paul. Yes, the possibilities with 3D printing seem endless and it's a fun way to explore creative ideas. Thanks for watching.
All the best,
James
A most elegant method for turnout actuation. Well done on you clever idea.
Thank you, Peter!
Hello James, you definitely are a person who thinks outside of the box! I think your idea is amazing, much more accurately controllable and far more prototypical. It's a shame the manufacturers of some of this rubbish don't sit down with someone like yourself and manufacture a product that works well, such as this. I really enjoyed this video, especially the comedy section with the plaster! I'm sure it will heal up soon. Great video as always.
Hello Phil, thank you so much for your positive comments and encouragement. I'd love it if a manufacturer wanted to work with me! It would be much better than my day job : )
Thanks for watching. Best wishes, James
That's fantastic. I've been using servos mounted with the axis parallel to the rails, using the sloppy-bearing-and-piano-wire method (actually a paperclip usually). Quite compact but relies on software to not drive the servo too far. This slip-eccentric method is very elegant, if there's space!
I'm glad you like the idea. The MK 2 version is even better. Stay tuned. : )
All the best, James
Hi James, that is fantastic. The satisfaction you get from producing that must be enormous....Congratulations Greg
Thanks, Greg. I do enjoy designing and making things - even more when they actually work! : )
Take care,
James
Excellent James as ever, always an enjoyable watch.
Cheers
Thank you so much! I am pleased you enjoyed the video.
Best wishes,
James
Brilliant idea I think. Well done.
Thanks, John. It's always lovely to get such encouraging feedback. Hope all is well down under.
Best wishes, James
Very cool mechanism James. The bar in brass will of course pose a difficulty on what material you’re going to use as the rods between bar and blades. Can imagine that would also be best in brass. However, then you’ll bridge the rails into a short.
Can imagine two brass tubes over a rod and a plastic flange in the middle, in the same diameter as the tube, would do the trick. Can also mean your parts can be made adjustable for different gauges.
And the two pieces of brass tubes can then be identical, which would make production more easy and cheaper.
Also am curious to what kind of visual throw bar you will come up with between the sleepers. Can imagine the path of travel could become even smoother when a kind of throw bar is added. Not to say, that such a throw bar would further enhance the realism of the model turnout.
Last but not least, for complicated turnout placement; this kind of mechanism would really improve turnout functioning over longer distances also.
I love, love, love your ideas, and to see them 'made flesh' - trouble is, I'll now want some for my own turnouts!
Thank you so much, Michael. Happy to send you some to try. : )
Hope you are keeping well, James
James . A very neat solution to the perennial problem of point operation.
I have used Dingo servo mounts for several years and they have the advantage of having microswitch incorporated to switch frog polarity etc.
Looking forward to next video. Pete
Thank you Pete. I'm going to develop this further in my next video. Thanks for watching, James
Simply brilliant. What a novel idea.
I'm glad you like it, Patrick. Thanks for watching, James
Hi James your creation are fantastic very informative video all the best 🚂🚂🚂
That's nice of you to say, Adam. Thank you. Best wishes, James
What an elegant salutation
That's avery ingenious solution, I like it.
Glad you like it and thanks for watching, Eddie.
Best wishes,
James
Hi James,
Another fine video just uploaded,
I agree with the below comments you have made a good point operating system - well done.
Like your approach to all aspects on the model.
Do see it has been stated that the real point control does have a tie bar fitted to maintain the track gauge in the turn out & assume your quest for detail will add this.
First picked up these videos from RM Web on your Templot tutorial which to me really helped my understanding on that subject.
thanks Peter
Thank you, Peter. I appreciate the feedback. Yes, the correct tie bars, or an approximation to them will be fitted in time. Thanks for watching, James
Really good idea. Would be very interested in buying these!
Given the interest this has created, I intend to sell an improved version in my shop - details coming soon! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Best wishes, James
What you've done is similar to how I operate my point work, but yours is much neater. I use a C&L mechanism to operate the point blades and this is connected to to the servo mounted on a MERG servo mount by a adjustable brass rod {adjustable turnbuckle}. Two brass tubes go from the C&L unit to just underneath the point. The tie bar attached to the point blades is from a Masokit etch which folds up into a fairly realistic looking tie bar. I then have two more brass brass tubes that are soldered to the tie bar that are just shy of the tubes from the C&L unit. Two long brass pins pass through the tubes from the tie bars into the tubes attached to the C&L unit. The whole set up is screwed to a piece of wood which is then screwed to the underneath of the baseboard. Your design is much more compact. I wish your ones were available when I was doing my layout. LOL. I use Megapoints to control the point work and signals via a lever frame.
Thank you for your detailed feedback, Dave. I'll consider all of this as I move forward. Best wishes, James
Hi James, You've set yourself an incredible amount of work! If this doesn't work out for you I would try a purely mechanical arrangement based on prototypical operation at the time! Thanks for uploading.
I like a challenge, and for me it's more about the journey than the destination so I quite expect this project to take many years to complete. Ultimately, the mechanisms will be operated by a mechanically interlocked lever frame which will control the electronics. I have started to design this but I need to speak with a S&T expert to confirm that I understand the principles of prototypical operation. It's all a bit beyond me at the moment.
Thanks for watching,
James
@@BexhillWest Since you are scratch building I would seriously consider going down to 3mm scale. Peco produces an excellent range of track for this gauge called HOm. If you go for TT gauge you can leave all the problems you had with OO Gauge, EM and Protofour in the past! All you've got to do is scale Bexhill West down a bit on the computer! For inspiration, here is Garry Hall's TT scale layout featuring an SR Class C2. If you go for this you will have a lot more of Bexhill West in the available space! ua-cam.com/video/-NVAtw6SRX0/v-deo.html
Hi James,
DCC Train automation already sell these. MTB MP1,5,6 and now I think they have a new MP10 out. They have the eccentric to effect a linear reciprocating motion but you could add your brass bar and twin prong set up (which is much more elegant than the single pin through the tie bar hole).
They have switches built into them too for frog and signal switching.
David.
HI David, the design of these has progressed since this video was made., and I'm now selling a more developed version through my online store. The main difference between my offering and the DCC train automation version is that mine use servos which suits what I am doing.
Thanks for watching,
James
I think that's a Fantastic Idea 🙂
Thank you, Adrian.
Best wishes, James
Hello James, what an absolutely ingenious idea, the thumb injury was worth it! I love the fact it houses the servo as well thus creating a single unit. Given your track record in the "quest for perfection" I feel it won't be long until the cable tie is made redundant as a means of securing the servo place🤔
Thank you Nick. You will be pleased to hear that the cable tie has been made redundant and I've reduced the number of parts to make this even simpler. Stay tuned for the update : )
Best wishes, James
Great idea, but have you considered that you will need microswitches for both the frog polarity and the interlocking on the Arduino. EG. the Arduino will need to know in which direction the points are set at power on and for signalling. You haven't included anywhere to mount them. Probably, at the far end of the push bar would be the best place, although horizontal pins on the push bar could be used to operate the microswitches.
Hi Henry, I wasn't going to use micro switches in my application, I had other ideas. But, as lots of people have shown an interest in this, I've created a MK 2 with a switch.
Stay tuned for my next video when I'll present the idea.
All the best,
James
Brilliant idea, and it works! I could see it being used as a door lock mechanism for security doors, windows or even safes if built large and in metal, too animate items on a layout or shuffle cards (maybe not). I particularly like its low profile and the use of 3d printing. Don't forget to patent it or the big boys across the pond will steal it and claim the glory.
Thanks, David. The big boys are too big to be watching my little channel! : )
All the best, James
@@BexhillWest James, you can be assured the "big boys" watch us little blokes with ideas very closely. The designers of Ugg Boots in Oz thought that they were too small to bother the anyone until they exported to the USA and they lost their lawsuit when an American company patented their Ugg design and effectively stole it.
Very good idea.
Thank you, John.
Best wishes, James
It's really nice, but two things. One, it looks expensive, and or time consuming. We have adapted to servo control because it is "cheap". Two, when you have scores, or in some cases hundreds of turnouts, you have a ton of wires running through your layout. One way I mitigate that is using controller boards like the "Jack Wabbit", DigiTrax DS74, etc, that are addressed from the track bus. Still, it is a mitigation and not solution. Ideally, we can come up with turnouts that tie directly into the track bus, without any mediators. A servo with it's own "mini" decoder, that would tie directly to the local bus would be perfect. It would save the wire bulk that clutters up modern layouts, as well as add to their complexity.
Hi James,
That's an interesting solution to be able to move the points. I wish there was something like that available for when I made mine which I ended up using the copperclad method. I found mounting stuff like that underneath a right pain with having fixed baseboards though trying to get it lined up straight. Btw If you make that whole bar brass then you will just create a short when it's connected to the rails?
Cheers, Michael
On my older P4 layout I bodged the TOU with brass droppers and PCB. Set up was awkward to say the least!
Hi Michael, you're right about creating a short. I had other ideas for connecting this lot to the rails which would have avoided the short but have since refined the design. I'd be pleased to hear your thoughts after the next video. Thanks for watching, James
@@BexhillWest - What about a thick metal pin glued into 2 plastic tube ends? That way stronger than just plastic (or resin) but avoids the short. Similar to a split axle.
I love your idea
Great idea, very inventive, but to replace the plastic rod with a brass rod would cause polarity issues........your videos are really worthwhile watching, thanks.
Thank you very much, I realised my mistake after posting the video. Have you seen my revised design? I've done away with the bar altogether.
Thanks for watching,
James
Very Nice solution, if the printed slide bar proves to be unsuitable, I'd use a nylon bar, with syringe tubes for the risers. The point blades each having a piano wire attached to the blade, the wire then being threaded into the syringe tubes. This would retain electrical isolation between the blades, and easy removal / refitting of the point motor assembly. The wires could protrude below the base board, the tubes extending to almost touching blade. Hope that makes sense.
Hi Paul, that all makes perfect sense and thank you for the very useful feedback. Best wishes, James
Very interesting approach! And easily adjustable, since you have your own 3D printer.
On a somewhat related note, I remember watching a video by rcgrabbag, with some home-made turnouts on a bridge, for which he had to route the actuators far away from their location - maybe it could be of interest to you, too. Like having a "real life" signal and switching box. 🙂
Cheers
Thank you for the heads-up. I'll check the channel out.
Best wishes, James
Thats a very good idea and workable. Might be a problem with its length should you have Two points side by side.
Another handy addition might be to add a raised section on the operating bar to operate one or two micro switches for frog polarity etc.
I know you like to do your own thing having watched you from the beginning but there is something on a similar basis made by Dingo Servo Mounts. A system I have used and is extremely effective.
Thank you so much for your feedback. I have had similar thoughts and this mechanism has now been redesigned and will feature in my next video.
Thanks for watching, James.
Firstly, I have not made any point motors at all, so just uniformed observations. The horizonal motion will require a slot in your baseboard rather than a single hole. Concealing a slot may be more difficult than a hole. As you are going to A LOT of effort to get Bexhill to look right are you going to be happy with the result.
If there is a likelihood of the pin between the bar & the sheaf falling out you could try an old Russian tank trick of having a ramp that knocks the pin back in every time it moves.
Inside the Chieftain's Hatch: T-34-85, Episode 1
Shows this, about 5 minutes in.
These things aside, that’s a nice design of mechanism you’ve got there; would you put them in your store?
Hi Chris,
A single hole will work and I plan having a little filler piece to cover the hole which will prevent the ballast dropping through as well. I shall check out the video - sounds interesting.
Thanks for watching, James
James, get a patent for it! Excellent idea which I can see being snapped up by a manufacturer. Would it be the same servo control for the signal?
Let's hope so! : )
Thanks for watching. Best wishes, James
Hi James, a neat solution , as always, could also be used to animate sliding doors and it strikes me that with a little modification (dual cams on one servo) could actually be attached to a pair of sliding doors, my one area of concern is the pins you are going to use to link to the tie bar, they are going to I suspect be quite fine so the question is will you mount the unit directly to the underside of the turnout or below the baseboard ? If it's under the baseboard use some wire with a bit of spring in it maybe ? Then a tiny amount of over travel at each end will get the spring of the wire to hold the blade tight against the side rail on each side
Hi David, these are all great observations which add to the great feedback on here. Taking all of this on board, I've come up with a new version which I think is even better. I agree with your observation about animating sliding doors and have already made a little list of potential uses and modifications for the basic idea.
All the best, James
Is the TOU available to buy somewhere? Or even just the STL file so that others don't need to reinvent the eccentric.
Hi Richard,
It’s available at makeitminiature.co.uk
Brilliant solution James, one quick note, maybe use a wooden dowel for the pins to go into rather than brass/3D printed plastic as the dowel will be consistently straight over such a very short distance and avoids any electrical issues. Just my thoughts but, yes, very impressed. Will you be making these available to buy as I am going to require rather a lot and I too want to use servos. Thanks.
Thanks, Paul. Yes, I will be making these available but I've designed a revised version which I think addresses your observations. Stay tuned for my next video when I shall explain all!
Thanks for watching, James
I've always found turnout actuation to be one of the biggest grey areas - so many people have so many opinions when it comes to how to handle it with hand laid track, and almost none of them are novice friendly, frequently referring to old hardware, discontinued products, etc. - this looks wonderful. Is the idea to solder the actuating pins to the bottom of the blades and then drop them through the holes in the operating bar? Or maybe the operating bar has small ID tube that the soldered droppers slot into? I'm half and half whether to go with mechanical or electrical point switching, but it looks like the same mechanism would work fine with wire-in-tube or crank rods also. I personally would buy six or even of these assuming the TOU-to-blades config is settled?
Hi William, I am going to detail the actual connection in my next video which should answer your questions a little more comprehensively so stay tuned!
All the best,
James
A very elegant design James! I am curious about the connection between the points and the throw rod via the pins. If the throw rod and presumably the pins are made from brass, then how are you planning to prevent a short circuit? The prototype would use an insulated throw rod to avoid shunting the track circuit. Very interested in seeing how your design evolves.
Hi Jeffrey, I was going to save that connection for a later video but have now redesigned and simplified the device to reduce the risk of short circuiting. I am going to cover it in my next video and I'd be pleased to hear your thoughts on the MK2 version.
Thanks for watching, James.
Good idea, and possible solution, but if seeking perfection, does your track work look " prototypical " point blade's have a tie bar for a reason which could reduce the need for two pins going to each blade ? Something to consider ?
I think he'll add a cosmetic tie bar that looks more realistic that the customary copperclad strip.
Thanks, Edward. As Roaming Adhocrat has mentioned, there will be cosmetic tie bars added later. Thanks for watching. Best wishes, James
Hi James, For some time I’ve been wondering whether it would be possible to control turnouts/points using servos attached directly to the underside of the sleepers. Your solution using a sliding bar is ingenious, but your prototype looks rather large. Though I haven’t developed the idea, I thought it might be possible to use a gear fitted to the servo to drive a toothed bar attached to the points switching blades. While this would keep the entire mechanism small, it would require a relatively large hole in the baseboard - relative to the conventional approach, that is. In my case, I’m using an insulation material (Kingspan) under the track, so a larger hole than normal would not be a problem. Of course, to allow for ballasting, the underside of the sleepers would need something to prevent the ballast disappearing through the hole - even paper glued to the sleepers would do.
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this potential solution.
Stay safe.
Stephen
Hi Stephen, the sliding bar idea is great although not mine. It seems to be common practice among P4 modellers.
The aspect of this is the eccentric to control it, I've not seen it done before.
I completely agree with your comments about my prototype being large and to rectify this, I have redesigned it into a much smaller package which I'll feature in my next video. It takes the concept to the next level which I think will interest some people.
Best wishes,
James
When you have finalized the design this is another thing that I would like to see you sell - either as a unit of sale of the *stl file.
Hi Peter, I hadn't originally intended to sell these but have come up with a revised MK 2 version which I think is much better. If there's interest, then yes of course!
Thanks for watching, James
Nice
What is the electronics you are using?
Hi Bruce,
I’ve just released an update video which shows the electronic control board I am using in some detail.
You can see it here: ua-cam.com/video/HfyN7Z_CxPY/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching,
James
No such thing as 'P4 Gauge' 😋 It's a track n wheel standard.
You can have P4 Narrow, Standard or Broad Gauge but 'P4 Gauge' makes no sense. I guess if you type it under the assumption it's standard gauge then it'd imply the 18.83mm minimum gauge but as a title doesn't really work. 🤣
Pretty cool invention, always loved your custom work. It's all bangin' top notch high tier quality. 👍 Always found this area difficult on the P4 layout I built (doesn't exist now although will do another)
Got a few vids to catch up on as not watched last few. Good stuff.
Hi, thanks for the feedback. I stand corrected. 18.83mm gauge is of course what I meant to say! Thank you for your kind comments - I think you will like the development of this that will be in my next video.
Best wishes, James
@@BexhillWest - No probs, hope I didn't come across as a twerp yet was unsure how to type it!
Was watching your vids a lot last year then stopped for some unknown reason, started again recently. The station building you scrapped n redid is phenominally good quality.
Looking forward to more. 🙂
Ha ha, consider your self told off. ( most serious railway modellers know that P4 and for that matter S4 refer to 4 mm to the ft scale modelling using a track gauge of 18.833 mm) Regards Barry
Well, frankly I'm really disappointed that you haven't found a way to move a 1:76 scale signalman's arm to throw a lever, which operates the entirely functional 1:76 scale point rodding etc. 🤣
Seriously, though, that's a very elegant solution. There's always something ridiculously satisfying about watching an eccentric thingie rotating. But I'm not sure how you're going to connect it to what I've always thought was the tie bar, but which I think is properly called the stretcher bar, to transfer the movement to the point blades. Are you taking two rods up vertically through slots in the baseboard to connect to (or to be) the tie/stretcher bar?
Would the parts of the eccentric movement not be better cast/etched in metal than plastic? Would add massively to the cost though, I'd guess.
Hi Andrew, I will explain a bit more in my next video when all shall become clear.
Thanks for watching.
Best wishes,
James
you could have saved time by using ready to lay track from C&L, or at least rail and bases from Exactoscale!
That is true, however at the time I started building my track the C&L ready to lay track didn't have keyed chairs, nor do the Exactoscale bases. However, C&L have recently introduced some excellent keyed flexitrack which I do intend to use for the Goods Yard.
Thanks for watching,
James
It seems that the mount is on the wrong side. When attached to the baseboard the mount will be between the points and the rod.
If you are referring to the working prototype James demonstrated, I think there should be two slots were the pins go that have been omitted which will allow the unit to be secured to the underside as shown earlier on the CAD demo.
The intention is it will mount underneath the baseboard. In my demo, I had shown it the other way up. Thanks for watching.
Best wishes,
James
Hi Nick, the intention is to secure the unit with screws through the lugs on the sides. Thanks for watching, James
Locking mechanism - yes, the usual model railway ones look wrong - would you like to see pics of german metric gauge ones for comparsion and doing them better by yourself?
~3:30 Very theoretical, if the viewer does not have a pic of the real thing to look at -> yes, when you got illustrative material showing going to be better.
Yes, two pins on the side "camouflaged" as the connection from the rod to the blades. Not T-bar.
The piano wire acts as a spring pressing the blades onto the outer rails, too.
Servo + semaphore signal + Andrino -> look into semaphore bouncing 😉
~16:30 You already know that I am against radio control. - BUT - Yes, the turnouts and signals independent from locomotives (feed by the rails) for federal control, for when layouts join modular up to one very big layout (that would be season 3 or even 4 - I guess).
~17:10 depends on the search words; "H0fine Weichenantrieb" for example brings some results, as well as ship and plane modellers often got similar solutions as they usually go the servo way.
Crane needs ⛓ and 🪝😶🌫