Thanks again Stefan. Would you believe in these comments on this video. There are people that criticized my methods of indicating, as taking to long. Now to me if I take a few minutes longer to be sure of things (with peace of mind) before pushing that start button, it's worth it. I hate the feeling when doing machine work. I should have checked that before I ran the program.
@@EdgePrecision I'm not Stefan but I can believe it. So many know it alls. I can't even imagine the cost of one of those parts, in material and prior work. To not spend a little more time being certain and ruining it? Goobers, all of the know it alls.
@Edge Precision hey Peter, great video as always!! I was wondering if you could help me? I seem to recall in one of your videos you show and talk about transferring programmes from your laptop to your mazak via cable link but I cant find which one, do you know the video or maybe even be willing to make a dedicated video? I usually transfer to the mazaks I work on via USB but this is becoming a problem due to the company's data transferring/sharing policies and think this would be a good alternative, thanks!
@@middlemanclayton1 This machine has a network connection on its control. It has this because of the tower computer these e650 integex machines have. I don’t use this so I didn’t install it. This machines control doesn’t have a USB port the control is to old. This network connection is not standard on Mazak controls so you may not be able to do the same thing on your machines.
Good work Peter, Been a while since I've watched your stuff. I recommend to all young people looking to step up in our trade to look at your videos ! I feel there are simply too many look at me videos and not enough hard working skilled videos of how it should really be done. I used to run an Integrex 300 years ago, I can appreciate all the difficulty and time you go through on these jobs. Please keep the great educational videos coming for the future generations and lets be real the rest of us too !! Appreciate it greatly
I have an old Sheldon lathe, always noticed the chuck was out a few thousands, just accepted it, but seeing how you hit the jaw to dial in that last bit, wow, I never thought of that. Still learning new shit ever day. Thanks mane.
Anyone else notice he relived the diameter under the counterbore for the Jaws? That makes so much sense!!! I just learned something new! I love your content! Keep up the good work good job 👍🏽
I'm no machinist, but logic says a twist drill that small in diameter that deep, especially it Ti, is a recipe for disaster. Your economic explanation makes the matter settled imo. Happy, healthy new year, ed.
You have no idea how happy I am that someone such as yourself who has some clout in the industry is talking about tapping the jaws! I do it all the time in old chucks it really works well. I’ve told other machinists about that trick and they act like it’s a huge horrible thing to do.
Thank you for always going further into the technical aspects that is machinists really care about. Also, I think people get too caught up in how fast a cycle is or can be when you’re not running production. Running 1-10 parts versus 500 parts is a completely different approach. The work that you do is like many professionals in our industry where quality over quantity is the key and the mindset you have to have. I’m glad you can keep a calm head when reading these comments and just explain you’re doing best for YOU!
Great video Peter. Having never even touched a gun drill your explanation is very welcome, you never know.. I might get to use one some day. Always learn something from your vids.
What an awesome video. Mr H. Spemann (my mentor way back when) does the same calculations when quoting drilled holes. I eventually understood the reasons behind his method but your explanation with regards to the economics behind the tooling is so good. Never got the chance to use Gun Drills. Left the industry when "U Drills" were the latest and greatest...love the video!
Thank you Peter! You're a good teacher. Very practical, precise, and reasonable. You showed us just how gun drills can pay off in different ways compared to costly twist drills. All around, you just captivate your students and keep them interested the whole way through. Kudos! Please keep em coming. We all learn something new each time and I think we end your videos just maybe a little smarter. Btw, nag, nag, nag.......... Please show us something in the power of your differential toe clamps! Nah, nag, nag......... :)
I absolutely love your content and enjoy how in depth you go into the jobs. I recently watched your video about your issue with autism and I find it so hard to understand how commentors can be so mean. So much for the idea that there is good in everyone! Please don't change a thing !
500 bucks for a drill! Wow. And you need a few spares. Wow. Thanks for the explanation. Couldn't imagine doing production stuff like that on my hobby lathe. Would build up the muscles though! Great Video. God Bless form Sydney
Absolutely amazing work! I enjoy your content and explanation of the process. It really looks like you enjoy your work. Keep posting videos! You make difficult machining look easy. Thanks for sharing your talent
LOL, had to chuckle when you were talking about it was not necessary to tighten all three jaws. I've always questioned the necessity but still hear our shop teacher not saying tighten all three but screaming it, still do more the 60 years later. Going to try your tip on tapping the jaw.
I imagine the spindle lock mechanism is very closely related to a cnc lathe tool turret indexing spline sort of rig. Although the spindle bearings add a level of complexity to the spindle locking mechanism I would love to see the system. Hopefully you never have to show us that assembly in your videos lol. Thanks this has been a very interesting series on this part. Especially the gun drill breakdown
Thanks for taking the time to share this with us. I wish your more of your customers were less worried about the intellectual rights and let you have a wider selection of machining to make content from. Can I ask about the Hotel progress? Also have you been in the blacksmith shop since completing the Toyota bed?
The Mexico project is currently on hold. The COVID thing and the economic situation caused by our current administration have been causing a problem. I do have a project that I have been gathering materials on the blacksmith side of things. A iron railing for the stairs in my house. I’m almost ready to start on it.
Do you have a good tip for setting the y offset with a turning tool? I use a slant bed with a turret, and have tool blocks that hold a few turning tools, so I use a y shift to move between each tool in the same turret slot. Ideally I would like to measure and get an exact tool height but struggle to find an easy solution.
I'm not sure I follow you on this. Doesn't your block have a certain spacing on the tools? So it should be a simple offset the amount the blocks spacing is. Other than that. The way we use to get the tool height on a engine lathe is to use a 6" scale and bring the tool up gently against the scale pinching it between the work and the tool. When the scale set perpendicular to the tools shank (In your case. Vertical on a engine lathe) you were centered close enough. You would be surprised how accurate this is. On a CNC lathe you would have to be careful not to jog it to hard into the scale and break the insert. On my Integrex I very seldom run tools off center in the Y axis. When I do I know exactly how much by the dimensions of the tool.
Very true about the centering of the jaws on a scroll chuck, never thought about that! Thank you! Though I can actually se a reason to tightening all three pinions and that would be to even out the wear of the chuck. Although it might be better to have all the wear on one side, then it would be consistent, instead of having the scroll move all over the place. Hmm.. 🤔
On a set true chuck once your dialed in. It would be better if you only tighten the same pinon every time you chuck the next part for the minim run out. Or the same If you are boring soft jaws. I have even used the tapping of the jaws on a hydraulic chuck. On a CNC lathe before.
I just figure tightening all three is a way of reduce wear or potential for wear by having each pinion take up some of the clamping load. There are other reasons, but I a feeling the scroll would wear out before they became a problem. That machine you have does seem to be built to make anything you want without wrecking anything.
I assume your integrex has high pressure coolant as an option? Would you recommend using gun drills without this feature? I’ve only had to use a gun drill once and didn’t have high pressure coolant feature but fortunately it was only one part and the drill made it.
The answer is it depends on the size of the drill. With small drills yes you need High pressure to blow the shavings down the small flute. But with larger drills more coolant volume is better. This is why with my machines, the pressure is high around 1500 psi. But those high pressure pumps don't put out much volume. Lets say around 5 Gal per minute. So when I get much above a 1/2-5/8" drill. I have problems. So I need more volume. I would say if your coolant system was lower pressure but higher volume you would have better success with larger drills. But smaller ones say less than 1/8" you really need high pressure. Hope that answers your question.
Thanks for taking all the extra time to explain the lathe chuck, the spindle clamping, and the gun drill. This was very interesting and I learned a lot! One little remark: Could you please check the focus of the camera before filming? There were a few shots (e.g., while you showed the gun drill tip, and at the very end while you rotated the part) where the background was in focus, but not the interesting part. Thanks!
I was using a GoPro camera for this sequence (unfortunately). Now there is no focus control and the little screen on the cameras back doesn't give you much. I didn't realize the focus until doing the edit. I decided I didn't want to scrap the whole take because the description (my voice) was on the same camera. That whole gundrill thing would have to be done over. This is the disadvantage of using a GoPro camera for this kind of thing. But you are correct the better thing to do is to redo the whole thing. Due to limited time I opted for the less than optimal solution.
Hi Peter, can you say to which angular tolerance you think indicating the C axis would ensure? if I have +/-0.02degree tol. between holes on both faces of the part would this type of alignment still work?
If there is a feature on the first side that you can indicate when you turn the part around yes. This method could and should get you even closer than +/-.02 deg. Assuming of course the feature you aligned to is precise in it's location. This machine can resolve the C rotary axis to .0001 of a degree. When you saw me indicating it in. I had it in .001 degree jog. It will do 10 times finer jog than that. If it was necessary it could be done to that accuracy.
The way you are indicating for the c-axis location (18:00), can you do this with an indicator on a magnetic base stuck to the freely rotating milling spindle, or is it important that it is clamped down in a something such as a collet? I guess my question is, does the base of the indicator have to be running true to the milling spindle rotation or can it be off center because it's rotating around anyway?
As long as you are in the vertical orientation like in this video with the mag base on the spindle. Where gravity wont affect the reading. Yes that would be possible. But as I said in the previous video you need to be aware of this in the horizontal position. And no the mag base doesn't need to be running true to the spindle. The whole indicator and base will rotate around the spindle's centerline. Regardless of the location on the indicator's base.
As long as the part is reasonably balanced, no speed won't throw it off. That said anything can move if it is hit with a shock hard enough. But in general the machine work is a different force than what I am applying by striking the jaws with a piece of steel or a hammer. If it is being done properly it is more of a constant force. Not this shock impact like I am doing here.
For large diameter holes spade drills work good. I have quite a few of them. Say holes 3/4" and larger. They won't hold size, finish or location as well. But they can be run with lower pressure and volume of coolant supply. I think with spade drills they don't control the quality of the tool close enough. I have noticed that the Allied ones I have vary in runout and having the spade tip properly centered on the tip. With larger gun drills coolant volume is more important than pressure. This becomes a problem with most machining centers HP coolant systems. My machines as well. When you get above say a 5/8" diameter gundrill they wont supply enough coolant volume. The coolant holes in the tool become to large. This requires a large volume of supply to maintain any pressure.
What materials speed by two? It depends on the titanium and it's heat treat. I generally start around 150 surface feet and see how its going. Than I change things from there.
If there were many many parts to do yes this would be good. But for only 9 parts. It would take more time to program and verify the probe setup than would be saved. It takes longer in the video to demonstrate this than to just do it.
If you are referring to me orienting the spindle with the indicator mounted. On this machine I know the spindle orients slowly and never makes multi-able turns doing so. It does it in less than one turn. I would never do this on my horizontal mill. It would throw the indicator off the arm.
When you tap on something like that it’s a shock that moves things. The machine work is a different kind of force. More of a steady force not a shock load. Let’s make a comparison. Like hammering a nail into wood. The hammer can drive it in. But if you put a steady load on it it can take quite a bit of force without moving. It’s the same kind of thing.
@@EdgePrecision Ahhh makes sense. Follow up question, what about a gun drill makes it so good for high diameter to depth ratios? I've heard people say the same as you did in the vid, but never thought to ask why.
@@beachboardfan9544 I don’t know if I can give you a complete explanation. I think the shank of a gundrill has more torsional rigidity than a twist drill. And the tip like I showed in the video rides on the bore of the hole and keeps it going straight.
Peter, when you are allowed to, would you tell us what the parts do? I know that, frequently, the machinist isn't told what the parts are for. Trade secret, need to know, etc. I could tell you but then I'd have to dispose of you........
Arr damn it. missed out on first. Peter, Im not sure if anyone has asked you before but are you a first gen machinist or was there someone you have learnt a lot from?
I have worked with some excellent machinists when I was learning. But I can't say anyone took time to teach me. I learned by observing asking questions and just doing things. Finding out what worked for me and what didn't. Unfortunately a lot of machinists are not so forthcoming with information. They won't go out of their way to show you. Unless you ask them. In the old days (I will call them). You sort of had to prove yourself worthy of them spending time on you. But usually they let you make your mistakes. Then if you asked and they thought you had a glimmer of hope (or any skill at all) they would tell you how you could have done better. So for the most part I learned by trial and error.
Thanks Peter, always enjoy your videos.
Its always good to see how much emphasis you put into indicating and doublechecking.
Thanks again Stefan. Would you believe in these comments on this video. There are people that criticized my methods of indicating, as taking to long. Now to me if I take a few minutes longer to be sure of things (with peace of mind) before pushing that start button, it's worth it. I hate the feeling when doing machine work. I should have checked that before I ran the program.
@@EdgePrecision I'm not Stefan but I can believe it. So many know it alls. I can't even imagine the cost of one of those parts, in material and prior work. To not spend a little more time being certain and ruining it? Goobers, all of the know it alls.
@Edge Precision hey Peter, great video as always!!
I was wondering if you could help me? I seem to recall in one of your videos you show and talk about transferring programmes from your laptop to your mazak via cable link but I cant find which one, do you know the video or maybe even be willing to make a dedicated video? I usually transfer to the mazaks I work on via USB but this is becoming a problem due to the company's data transferring/sharing policies and think this would be a good alternative, thanks!
@@middlemanclayton1 This machine has a network connection on its control. It has this because of the tower computer these e650 integex machines have. I don’t use this so I didn’t install it. This machines control doesn’t have a USB port the control is to old. This network connection is not standard on Mazak controls so you may not be able to do the same thing on your machines.
@@EdgePrecision no it should yours is a 2010 eh? or is it a 2006 ?
Never even thought about bumping the jaws on a 3 jaw! Awesome info
Good work Peter, Been a while since I've watched your stuff. I recommend to all young people looking to step up in our trade to look at your videos ! I feel there are simply too many look at me videos and not enough hard working skilled videos of how it should really be done. I used to run an Integrex 300 years ago, I can appreciate all the difficulty and time you go through on these jobs. Please keep the great educational videos coming for the future generations and lets be real the rest of us too !! Appreciate it greatly
Sorry the series is over. Thank you for the videos, always a great learning experience.
There will be others.
I have an old Sheldon lathe, always noticed the chuck was out a few thousands, just accepted it, but seeing how you hit the jaw to dial in that last bit, wow, I never thought of that. Still learning new shit ever day. Thanks mane.
Great video and series. The gun drill explanation was also very interesting. Thanks for consistently producing such high quality content.
Thanks David, I couldn't have said it better myself
Anyone else notice he relived the diameter under the counterbore for the Jaws?
That makes so much sense!!! I just learned something new!
I love your content! Keep up the good work good job 👍🏽
I'm no machinist, but logic says a twist drill that small in diameter that deep, especially it Ti, is a recipe for disaster. Your economic explanation makes the matter settled imo.
Happy, healthy new year, ed.
Thank you Peter for the speed/feed info. 👍
Thank you for all the explanation and instruction on how you go about a job such as this.
You have no idea how happy I am that someone such as yourself who has some clout in the industry is talking about tapping the jaws! I do it all the time in old chucks it really works well. I’ve told other machinists about that trick and they act like it’s a huge horrible thing to do.
Thank you for always going further into the technical aspects that is machinists really care about. Also, I think people get too caught up in how fast a cycle is or can be when you’re not running production. Running 1-10 parts versus 500 parts is a completely different approach. The work that you do is like many professionals in our industry where quality over quantity is the key and the mindset you have to have. I’m glad you can keep a calm head when reading these comments and just explain you’re doing best for YOU!
Fascinating - as always. Thanks.
That trick to tap the jaws of the chuck is awesome. Great stuff!
Great video Peter.
Having never even touched a gun drill your explanation is very welcome, you never know.. I might get to use one some day.
Always learn something from your vids.
What an awesome video. Mr H. Spemann (my mentor way back when) does the same calculations when quoting drilled holes. I eventually understood the reasons behind his method but your explanation with regards to the economics behind the tooling is so good. Never got the chance to use Gun Drills. Left the industry when "U Drills" were the latest and greatest...love the video!
Thank you Peter!
You're a good teacher. Very practical, precise, and reasonable. You showed us just how gun drills can pay off in different ways compared to costly twist drills.
All around, you just captivate your students and keep them interested the whole way through.
Kudos!
Please keep em coming. We all learn something new each time and I think we end your videos just maybe a little smarter.
Btw, nag, nag, nag..........
Please show us something in the power of your differential toe clamps!
Nah, nag, nag......... :)
I have actually bought some materials to make a fixture to test some toe clamps. I just haven't had time to do anything yet.
@@EdgePrecision Thank you! Many of us are looking forward to that! :)
Very informative .
Thank you for sharing that info. With us. Concerning the jaws on the 3 jaw chuck. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing once again!
Good job describing this, thanks. Charles
I absolutely love your content and enjoy how in depth you go into the jobs. I recently watched your video about your issue with autism and I find it so hard to understand how commentors can be so mean. So much for the idea that there is good in everyone! Please don't change a thing !
Thanks for a great video, Happy new year..Dave
500 bucks for a drill! Wow. And you need a few spares. Wow. Thanks for the explanation. Couldn't imagine doing production stuff like that on my hobby lathe. Would build up the muscles though! Great Video. God Bless form Sydney
You take machining to a different level.
I appreciate all of the work you put into editing your videos. That must take a lot of time.
Absolutely amazing work! I enjoy your content and explanation of the process. It really looks like you enjoy your work. Keep posting videos! You make difficult machining look easy. Thanks for sharing your talent
Excelente trabajo maestro magnifico.
Love this job and really inspiring from you a lot.
Keep up the good work. love the content!
hola peter..como siempre un video muy bueno..gracias por tu tiempo..te deseo un buen año 2022 y mucha salud...un saludo desde españa
LOL, had to chuckle when you were talking about it was not necessary to tighten all three jaws. I've always questioned the necessity but still hear our shop teacher not saying tighten all three but screaming it, still do more the 60 years later. Going to try your tip on tapping the jaw.
Thanks for the video.
Hahaha i love that you talk about tigthen the chuck.
you often see machinists tighten the chuck on all three 🙂 wonder if they've ever look inside.
great tip thanks
One of my 3 jaw chucks has a factory mark on the pinion gear that gives the best concentricity when tightening.
My only 4 jaw scroll does also.
That would make sense if they used that one when the jaws were ground on the chuck.
I imagine the spindle lock mechanism is very closely related to a cnc lathe tool turret indexing spline sort of rig. Although the spindle bearings add a level of complexity to the spindle locking mechanism I would love to see the system. Hopefully you never have to show us that assembly in your videos lol. Thanks this has been a very interesting series on this part. Especially the gun drill breakdown
Actually in some older video he showed drawing of spindle assembly and explained how locking mechanism work
@@rendicz5595 Thanks I dig through his channel
Old school Peter, I started the year Elvis died....guess you was a couple of years before.
Great demo
Thanks for taking the time to share this with us. I wish your more of your customers were less worried about the intellectual rights and let you have a wider selection of machining to make content from.
Can I ask about the Hotel progress? Also have you been in the blacksmith shop since completing the Toyota bed?
The Mexico project is currently on hold. The COVID thing and the economic situation caused by our current administration have been causing a problem. I do have a project that I have been gathering materials on the blacksmith side of things. A iron railing for the stairs in my house. I’m almost ready to start on it.
@@EdgePrecision Would love to see another blacksmith video if you have the time to film that project!
Nice work
Do you have a good tip for setting the y offset with a turning tool? I use a slant bed with a turret, and have tool blocks that hold a few turning tools, so I use a y shift to move between each tool in the same turret slot. Ideally I would like to measure and get an exact tool height but struggle to find an easy solution.
I'm not sure I follow you on this. Doesn't your block have a certain spacing on the tools? So it should be a simple offset the amount the blocks spacing is. Other than that. The way we use to get the tool height on a engine lathe is to use a 6" scale and bring the tool up gently against the scale pinching it between the work and the tool. When the scale set perpendicular to the tools shank (In your case. Vertical on a engine lathe) you were centered close enough. You would be surprised how accurate this is. On a CNC lathe you would have to be careful not to jog it to hard into the scale and break the insert. On my Integrex I very seldom run tools off center in the Y axis. When I do I know exactly how much by the dimensions of the tool.
nice job all round. The drill was simply "Darwin's share"
The best way to avoid breaking an expensive cutter, is to buy 2 or 3 of them. If you only buy 1, it's pretty much guaranteed to break.
Very true about the centering of the jaws on a scroll chuck, never thought about that! Thank you!
Though I can actually se a reason to tightening all three pinions and that would be to even out the wear of the chuck. Although it might be better to have all the wear on one side, then it would be consistent, instead of having the scroll move all over the place. Hmm.. 🤔
On a set true chuck once your dialed in. It would be better if you only tighten the same pinon every time you chuck the next part for the minim run out. Or the same If you are boring soft jaws. I have even used the tapping of the jaws on a hydraulic chuck. On a CNC lathe before.
@@EdgePrecision Yes, that makes sense!
Thank you for a good video and the breakdown of the economics of the gun drill! Really appreciate it!
The thread OD matching the shank may or may not have been deliberate but points for DFM either way.
I just figure tightening all three is a way of reduce wear or potential for wear by having each pinion take up some of the clamping load. There are other reasons, but I a feeling the scroll would wear out before they became a problem.
That machine you have does seem to be built to make anything you want without wrecking anything.
You'll never get the clamping load spread between all the pinions.
I assume your integrex has high pressure coolant as an option? Would you recommend using gun drills without this feature? I’ve only had to use a gun drill once and didn’t have high pressure coolant feature but fortunately it was only one part and the drill made it.
The answer is it depends on the size of the drill. With small drills yes you need High pressure to blow the shavings down the small flute. But with larger drills more coolant volume is better. This is why with my machines, the pressure is high around 1500 psi. But those high pressure pumps don't put out much volume. Lets say around 5 Gal per minute. So when I get much above a 1/2-5/8" drill. I have problems. So I need more volume. I would say if your coolant system was lower pressure but higher volume you would have better success with larger drills. But smaller ones say less than 1/8" you really need high pressure. Hope that answers your question.
Thanks for taking all the extra time to explain the lathe chuck, the spindle clamping, and the gun drill. This was very interesting and I learned a lot!
One little remark: Could you please check the focus of the camera before filming? There were a few shots (e.g., while you showed the gun drill tip, and at the very end while you rotated the part) where the background was in focus, but not the interesting part. Thanks!
I was using a GoPro camera for this sequence (unfortunately).
Now there is no focus control and the little screen on the cameras back doesn't give you much. I didn't realize the focus until doing the edit. I decided I didn't want to scrap the whole take because the description (my voice) was on the same camera. That whole gundrill thing would have to be done over. This is the disadvantage of using a GoPro camera for this kind of thing. But you are correct the better thing to do is to redo the whole thing. Due to limited time I opted for the less than optimal solution.
@@EdgePrecision Ok, understood, thanks for the explanation! Yes, please don't waste your time and work by redoing a sequence.
Hi Peter, can you say to which angular tolerance you think indicating the C axis would ensure? if I have +/-0.02degree tol. between holes on both faces of the part would this type of alignment still work?
If there is a feature on the first side that you can indicate when you turn the part around yes. This method could and should get you even closer than +/-.02 deg. Assuming of course the feature you aligned to is precise in it's location. This machine can resolve the C rotary axis to .0001 of a degree. When you saw me indicating it in. I had it in .001 degree jog. It will do 10 times finer jog than that. If it was necessary it could be done to that accuracy.
👍
The way you are indicating for the c-axis location (18:00), can you do this with an indicator on a magnetic base stuck to the freely rotating milling spindle, or is it important that it is clamped down in a something such as a collet?
I guess my question is, does the base of the indicator have to be running true to the milling spindle rotation or can it be off center because it's rotating around anyway?
As long as you are in the vertical orientation like in this video with the mag base on the spindle. Where gravity wont affect the reading. Yes that would be possible. But as I said in the previous video you need to be aware of this in the horizontal position. And no the mag base doesn't need to be running true to the spindle. The whole indicator and base will rotate around the spindle's centerline. Regardless of the location on the indicator's base.
@@EdgePrecision That is fantastic, thank you!
Only ever tightened on 1
Did you disassemble mazak spindle for service?
No. I have had the beck end apart to replace the spindle orient sensor.
If those chuck fingers can move a bit can rotation at speed throw it off?
As long as the part is reasonably balanced, no speed won't throw it off. That said anything can move if it is hit with a shock hard enough. But in general the machine work is a different force than what I am applying by striking the jaws with a piece of steel or a hammer. If it is being done properly it is more of a constant force. Not this shock impact like I am doing here.
What about a spade drill verus the gun drill? Too much wandering?
For large diameter holes spade drills work good. I have quite a few of them. Say holes 3/4" and larger. They won't hold size, finish or location as well. But they can be run with lower pressure and volume of coolant supply. I think with spade drills they don't control the quality of the tool close enough. I have noticed that the Allied ones I have vary in runout and having the spade tip properly centered on the tip. With larger gun drills coolant volume is more important than pressure. This becomes a problem with most machining centers HP coolant systems. My machines as well. When you get above say a 5/8" diameter gundrill they wont supply enough coolant volume. The coolant holes in the tool become to large. This requires a large volume of supply to maintain any pressure.
would you say you divide everything by 2 for titanium ? everything from speeds and feeds
What materials speed by two? It depends on the titanium and it's heat treat. I generally start around 150 surface feet and see how its going. Than I change things from there.
Ran similar parts like that at magnum.. baker parts
What are these kind of parts used for? Oil and gas? Semiconductor fab?
I don't know what this part does. But it is used in the oil industry.
wouldnt be easer with probe look for center ?
If there were many many parts to do yes this would be good. But for only 9 parts. It would take more time to program and verify the probe setup than would be saved. It takes longer in the video to demonstrate this than to just do it.
@@EdgePrecision thanks, great job
Hiya Peter
I didn’t see Clarence in the back of the drill
12:56 That usually doesn't end well for me! I like to joke and say my indicators have a half an RPM max rating.
If you are referring to me orienting the spindle with the indicator mounted. On this machine I know the spindle orients slowly and never makes multi-able turns doing so. It does it in less than one turn. I would never do this on my horizontal mill. It would throw the indicator off the arm.
@@EdgePrecision I wasn't giving you crap, just remembering my past screw ups.
@@TheFeller1554 I didn’t take it that way.
If you tapping on the jaws a little moves it like that, wont the tooling engaging the part move it too, possibly negating the zeroing you did?
When you tap on something like that it’s a shock that moves things. The machine work is a different kind of force. More of a steady force not a shock load. Let’s make a comparison. Like hammering a nail into wood. The hammer can drive it in. But if you put a steady load on it it can take quite a bit of force without moving. It’s the same kind of thing.
@@EdgePrecision Ahhh makes sense.
Follow up question, what about a gun drill makes it so good for high diameter to depth ratios? I've heard people say the same as you did in the vid, but never thought to ask why.
@@beachboardfan9544 I don’t know if I can give you a complete explanation. I think the shank of a gundrill has more torsional rigidity than a twist drill. And the tip like I showed in the video rides on the bore of the hole and keeps it going straight.
@@EdgePrecision Nice, thx for taking the time to respond 👍
I'll be happy if tell what is the brand and the model of your machine?1 Thank you in advance
This machine is a Mazak Integrex e650H.
Peter, when you are allowed to, would you tell us what the parts do?
I know that, frequently, the machinist isn't told what the parts are for. Trade secret, need to know, etc. I could tell you but then I'd have to dispose of you........
I don't know what this part does. Sorry.
@@EdgePrecision bummer....
Thanks anyways! :)
Second
Arr damn it. missed out on first.
Peter, Im not sure if anyone has asked you before but are you a first gen machinist or was there someone you have learnt a lot from?
I have worked with some excellent machinists when I was learning. But I can't say anyone took time to teach me. I learned by observing asking questions and just doing things. Finding out what worked for me and what didn't. Unfortunately a lot of machinists are not so forthcoming with information. They won't go out of their way to show you. Unless you ask them. In the old days (I will call them). You sort of had to prove yourself worthy of them spending time on you. But usually they let you make your mistakes. Then if you asked and they thought you had a glimmer of hope (or any skill at all) they would tell you how you could have done better. So for the most part I learned by trial and error.