I just did this today. I personally used a Titan 12048 3/4-Inch Drive 40-Inch Breaker Bar (longest bar I could find on the internet), 1/2" Drive 27mm 6pt Socket, and a Sunex 4305 3/4" Female to 1/2" Male Super Adapter (so the breaker bar could fit the 27mm socket). I purchased everything of Amazon for about $80. Removal was cake. To remove the front pulley nut- I left the motorcycle on the ground, and all I had to do was push the rear-brake while unscrewing so the bike wouldn't move forward (easy if you have someone else to help). Doing it this way slightly stresses the drive belt since it is what actually resists the torquing force- but in my case the belt handled it just fine. The rear-axle nut is also 27mm- which has to be loosened during the pulley swap for adjusting belt tension. So I actually used these tools twice for this job. After loosening those nuts, I lifted the bike to adjust the belt drive tension so I could swap the pulleys. I already have replacement tires and the Barron's rear pulley so I will end up using these tools again. Using proper tools can make things easy and you won't damage your motorcycle! Also- for those of you that have lots of money and don't care what you spend it on- there is a special Kawasaki tool, parts# 57001-1572 and 57001-1591, for doing front pulley removal that only exerts force on the pulley itself- but it costs several hundred U.S. dollars. You buy tools mentioned in the service manual from any Kawasaki dealership, but even the simplest tools are incredibly expensive.
Well if you want to know the wrong way to go about it...This is it folks. I wouldn't let this dude work on anything mechanical and trust that it was safe
@Dan Agreed!! The tree branch / tiedown strap ratchet extension and 12 point 1 1/16" socket on a metric nut are the first clues that this dude has no clue about motorcycle mechanics. It also looks like he was trying to loosen the pulley nut without first flatteniing the locking washer. He is a good argument for not buying used motorcycles.
This guy needs to know how to use tools. He is a clown , as far as I am concerned , and I have worked on bikes for over 50 years.Why would anyone use adjustable wrenches if they have anything resembling a toolkit? Torque wrench ? has he ever heard of one or ever used one? Doubt it. Any one interested in changing front pulley for the 34 tooth version will notice massive reduction in vibration and at steady throttle opening ( cruising situation ) a decent improvement in fuel savings - even two-up. The engines torque can handle pillion riding with this gearing quite well , you just need to use more throttle when moving off from a standstill. I have the Barons assembly myself installed in less than an hour and well worth the money.
Just the Baron's front pulley (34 tooth vs 32 tooth) represents a 6.25% overdrive. At 5000 RPM, that's a reduction of 312 RPM. By installing the larger front and smaller rear pulleys, the RPM drop is roughly doubled.
hello my friend...i noticed that, when you remove the original pulley, there is a sort of border in the front side of it (the side of pulley that you see immediately when you remove the panel)..in fact you can't see the gear scalloped. when you put the baron pulley (on the other clip), you mount it with that higher border in the back side. if you see the other clip in fact, you see immediately the gear scalloped. did you mount it wrongly or the istruction said that? thank you very much for the clips
I just did this today. I personally used a Titan 12048 3/4-Inch Drive 40-Inch Breaker Bar (longest bar I could find on the internet), 1/2" Drive 27mm 6pt Socket, and a Sunex 4305 3/4" Female to 1/2" Male Super Adapter (so the breaker bar could fit the 27mm socket). I purchased everything of Amazon for about $80. Removal was cake. To remove the front pulley nut- I left the motorcycle on the ground, and all I had to do was push the rear-brake while unscrewing so the bike wouldn't move forward (easy if you have someone else to help). Doing it this way slightly stresses the drive belt since it is what actually resists the torquing force- but in my case the belt handled it just fine. The rear-axle nut is also 27mm- which has to be loosened during the pulley swap for adjusting belt tension. So I actually used these tools twice for this job. After loosening those nuts, I lifted the bike to adjust the belt drive tension so I could swap the pulleys. I already have replacement tires and the Barron's rear pulley so I will end up using these tools again. Using proper tools can make things easy and you won't damage your motorcycle! Also- for those of you that have lots of money and don't care what you spend it on- there is a special Kawasaki tool, parts# 57001-1572 and 57001-1591, for doing front pulley removal that only exerts force on the pulley itself- but it costs several hundred U.S. dollars. You buy tools mentioned in the service manual from any Kawasaki dealership, but even the simplest tools are incredibly expensive.
Sounds a bit over-tooled 🙈
Well if you want to know the wrong way to go about it...This is it folks.
I wouldn't let this dude work on anything mechanical and trust that it was safe
you keep taking yours to the apprentice motor mechanics then
@@nickblets69 i am a motorcycle mechanic...im thinking you haven't finished your apprenticeship yet?
@@TheDonk1973 I'm too overqualified for apprenticeships.
@Dan Agreed!! The tree branch / tiedown strap ratchet extension and 12 point 1 1/16" socket on a metric nut are the first clues that this dude has no clue about motorcycle mechanics. It also looks like he was trying to loosen the pulley nut without first flatteniing the locking washer. He is a good argument for not buying used motorcycles.
This guy needs to know how to use tools. He is a clown , as far as I am concerned , and I have worked on bikes for over 50 years.Why would anyone use adjustable wrenches if they have anything resembling a toolkit? Torque wrench ? has he ever heard of one or ever used one? Doubt it.
Any one interested in changing front pulley for the 34 tooth version will notice massive reduction in vibration and at steady throttle opening ( cruising situation ) a decent improvement in fuel savings - even two-up. The engines torque can handle pillion riding with this gearing quite well , you just need to use more throttle when moving off from a standstill. I have the Barons assembly myself installed in less than an hour and well worth the money.
good vid. @6:08, I heard walmart sells the crafty wood club rachet for $5..............no refunds tho
Are you kidding a crescent wrench. An Allen key. You need some proper tools man
Hello, did you put a bigger pulley on the bike? If yes, did it improve the vibration at higher speeds? Was there improvement?
Just the Baron's front pulley (34 tooth vs 32 tooth) represents a 6.25% overdrive. At 5000 RPM, that's a reduction of 312 RPM. By installing the larger front and smaller rear pulleys, the RPM drop is roughly doubled.
hello my friend...i noticed that, when you remove the original pulley, there is a sort of border in the front side of it (the side of pulley that you see immediately when you remove the panel)..in fact you can't see the gear scalloped. when you put the baron pulley (on the other clip), you mount it with that higher border in the back side. if you see the other clip in fact, you see immediately the gear scalloped. did you mount it wrongly or the istruction said that? thank you very much for the clips
thank you too!! let me know... i'm very interested at this mod. ;-)
looks like he did put it on backwards
🙄
Are you kidding me? Get a repair manual, read it, and buy some tools!
Derpa derp derp