How To Avoid Crashing Your CNC Machine
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- Опубліковано 10 тра 2024
- Crashing your CNC Swiss Machine is a headache, but these tricks can save you from that headache and save you money in the process. Donnie compares different types of material along with a variety of guide bushing options to show you how to keep from over spending on materials and save your machine from unnecessary crashes.
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0:00 Avoid Crashing your Swiss Machine
0:28 What is a Guide Bushing?
0:54 Tornos Machine Interface
1:38 Taking out a Guide Bushing
2:27 Guide Bushing Cover
3:15 Thank you!
3:25 Non-Guide Bushing Settings
3:58 Guide Bushing Tips!
6:14 Rules running Swiss CNC Machine
7:22 Too many Donnies
7:37 Trevor being Trevor
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If you read this far down type in the comments "Donnie STILL sings Katy Perry" - Наука та технологія
@3:50 I meant to say without guidebushing. Hadn’t had my Celsius yet so I accidentally selected powered guidebushing twice!
@Donnie don't worry, i saw and didn't say anything 🤫....was tempted to comment though 🤣.
Videography is always on point with these guys. What’s cool is there’s always something here for everyone. Much love and gratitude
Thanks dood!
I have to say I disagree when people say running not ground material saves you money. Swiss machines are made to run continuously and the best way to do it is by having round straight material. Time is money guys. Donnie you should explain pros and cons of both scenarios, customers think bushinless will solve all their problems but sometimes it just get things worst, poor tool life, longer cycle times, quality issues... you know that song...
loving the transitions and camera work
Hey BLAKE PB! Thank you for your continued support! We appreciate you 😊
Don’t quote me on this, but I think Hardinge actually does a finish grind on the bore with the collet a little compressed. That way the material will run smoothly through, but it will also be exact diameter when clamped. This is why I only run Hardinge collets. Also when cutting emergency 5C collets, always find pins that are a little undersized so when you release the part the collet can remain in contact with the taper with our binding on the part
3:43 "change it from powered guidebushing to without guidebushing"
*selects powered guidebushing again* :P
Great tips Donnie!👏 I see this being able to help many people who are frustrated because they aren't able to get ground stock! Also great work Sam & Corey on the sweet camera/ editing work!😎
Donnie! You are a beast! So much good info in this video. I had no idea you could take out the guide bushing on a Swiss and use it like a lathe.
Great job as always Donnie!
I'm not a lathe guy but this definitely help. I'm more of 5th axis router,mill, and Gantry type of guy. I always wanted to jump on the swiss lathe because I see it as a challenge to run a machine with 10 different axis. I've been pretty good double checking offset when you're switching 3 to 5 axis. Especially have to double check those H&T values. You'll be surprised how many times I almost kissed the part by having non matching H&T values that has gotten away from rookie programmer.
Seriously keep it coming. This is real quality content. Donnie is one of the real ones
Lol what makes a real machinist anyways!
@@dominic6634 he's an application engineer. Those guys do turnkeys, train people, etc. In my experience most of those guys were machinists/toolmakers first. Very few have a bachelor's degree
Great explanation, love the enthusiasm 👌
Excellent vid! Enjoyed getting to see a bit further inside a Tornos; just a whimsy bit more complicated than my Boxford160…!!🤪
Awesome video guys, I really love the dynamic
Hi Dio! Thank you for your continued support! 😊
@@Sara-TOC 😄
There can never be too many Donnies 😉
Thanks ma!
Glad to see your using Esprit. Will Titans of CNC be offering free education for Swiss machining via Esprit CAM?
I use a bar puller and a spindle liner since I don’t have a Swiss to run, most parts are under an inch long so works out great
Not sure I understand this title matching with this content, but another excellent video with great info!
love your guys vid and i dont even own a drill press at the very least
Great video! Love the tips and tricks!!!
Thank you!
Cool video as always. Ciao, Marco.
Our drawn bars are usually under the ordered size by a few thousandths so that's not a problem we normally have, but the drawn bars are often tapered (upto a few thousandths) and vary in size bar to bar by a few thousandths. So If I set the guidebushing on the smaller end it may jam, If I set it to the larger end I can lose surface finish and concentricity due to the lack of support.
At present I have to lay out a days worth of bar and measure every 18" down the bars to make sure a high spot isn't going to cause havoc, along with stopping and setting the bushing multiple times a day. How close would you suggest the stock has to be to the set size of the bushing?
Lol the Celsius. I like them because it's half the caffeine than a bang.
One more tip: If you have a large lot of cheap material make sure you measure and sort it! Run each sorted lot and adjust your guide bushing when you switch to new material. I've seen variations as high as .005 and that's the difference between parts running like butter and having to cut a wad of spaghetti out of your machine.
That is a very good point. I’ve seen a lot of mistakes made because people didn’t do that
Omg I have this problem all the time.
Hi, can you show some tricks how we can optimize some proces for faster running process but still stable on Swiss machine?
If your machine is capable its worth loading a touch off tool and using the pressure sensing tool head to verify your material position after every pull through the guide bushing. this prevents crashes from too much stickout
Use O-rings material to keep the collet open to accept bigger size material
We rarely use anything other than ground stock for both general steel and stainless. I think the price differences are like 10% - are they really that much higher in the US?
So was that a Southwick and Meister you couldn’t name ? I had 3-5 guide bushings for every bar size. One on size. And 2-3 oversized for oversized stock. Then sometimes a Meehanite guide bushing for extra lubricity.
Curious what the other brand guide bushing is?
In years gone by had job specked to run on 4 sliding heads. As cost saving used wickman 6 spindle auto roller supports. Produced it faster on 1 machine than 4 sliding heads. There great but just look at jobs can I do it another way first.
Great job talking about this topic Donnie. I am curious though, what is the difference between ground and non ground stock.....beside the grinding part 😂.
I put a 12 foot bar of stainless in my bar feeder, and it vibrated and alarmed out after the first part. Once I got ground stock, it was perfect. Every bar change is the same, and the Swiss runs great.
Ground stock will be consistently round, straight, and on size.
@tom ahh ok, thanks.
the way he banged his head , and it is so real and so often , hahahaha.
I use brass guide bushings for titanium rods because the application guy from our brand of swiss type machines told me the carbide bushings tend to get the titanium stock stuck.
Whats your opinion on these kind of bushings?
Thanks for the content.
Titanium and aluminum stick for sure but you CAN use carbide if you are careful. The titanium bone screw I did had stock that was .005 oversized and it still ran fine
Consider carbide guide bushings with rollers. Cost lot more but are ideal for titanium and really hard to machine steel. We use those mechanical cam tornos for more then half of century. I think only one firm is making them, from Switzerland very niche guide bushing type.
Thanks for the answer. Fortunatly our titanium rods are grindet to be -0.015mm and vary for only about 0.003mm from one to another. But I have to retighten the brass bushing from time to time because it wears of.
I always buy Hardinge collets and bushing.
I own a centerless and a Swiss why not?
The thing i have with ground stock is that i don't understand why you'd get a swiss instead of a normal similarly priced lathe if you're not going to use it
Long parts. If your part is .15 in diameter and 8” long it would be pretty difficult on a standard lathe. They are also wildly faster than regular lathes
I prefer to just rapid it into a wall thank you very much.
Badass!
Part cut-off detection could help with this. Stock won't be in correct position. If your(the viewer) machine has this option.
yes..lol.. crashing a machine like that sounds like my worst nightmare to fix ;)
Even if you have a guide bushing that will run oversized stock, if there is variation in your material you will still have problems.
Hey Donny
lol I like this guy
or... you install a automatic adaptable guidebushing like from JBS. :)
At what point in the filming did you get my call😆
all new its so easy
5:12 If you can buy a machine like that, you can buy ground stock....or at least a better sort of stock material.
That's why you need hand hacksaw in shop. When you bend, and have whole bar in the machine, so you can't push out and you can't pull out. You have to cut it out.
I HATE that situation! 😂
Sawzall and a parting tool, if you didn't destroy everything that should fix itself
2:00 "so you don't drop all your screws in the machine" 2:13 screw drops in machine. Love these videos though not hating just funny
You need a bigger towel, foreshadowing the event at 2:12
i smiled when you said tmi
Guide bush can always close down but you can't open it
My company never buys ground stock for when I run our sliding head
Why no barry
You appear to have a mistake at about 3:56 - wrong selection
swiss lathe is on my shopping list for 2025
there's no point using ground stock when you'll be cutting it anyway
It will bind in your bushing before it’s cut.
you use ground stock because if you don't any dings or burrs or high spots will get caught on your guide bushing and require you to knock the bar back out and either sand down the burr or replace the bar, turning that entire section of bar into unusable scrap
I know this is probably dumb but what are all the things that can cause a machine crash?
That is a LONG list. Bad program, bad offset, bad operator, restarting a program in the wrong place. I bet for every one I mentioned there are 20 that I didn't. The truth is CNC machines are stupid. They will de exactly what you tell them to do. Whether you like it or not.
@@brandons9138 thank you😂 I’m new to the programming in F360 it’s just a bit overwhelming because I don’t want to crash a big machine while figuring it out. I have a little cnc wood router but it doesn’t have enough hp to work on metals
@@hunternull8320 Check and double check everything before running your program. Does your router run standard G codes?
@@brandons9138 yeah, it just has a manual spindle speed setting and no atc. I just don’t know where to make sure everything is good to go and safe to run.
@@hunternull8320 Learn to read G Code if you haven't done so already. On a 2D part its not hard at all. Making sure you Z numbers makes sense will help you keep from ramming your spindle into your workpiece. ALWAYS, ALWAYS remember to look at the actual code Fusion is giving you. If the post processor for your machine is garbage then you can get some interesting codes. The simulation that Fusion shows you is NOT the actual code that it'll output.
was the other brand southwick and meister? trash guide bushings and even worse collets
I thought you would have drinked, white claw. You bought many of them
Aren’t you supposed to disclose when your being sponsored? Like with Celsius
капитан крюк
Must have been a Hutch guidebushing
Donnie STILL sings Katy Perry
I lost ya around the 40 sec. mark or so... I just don't hear that fast ... picked up again at 1:54 but lost it again at 2:32...... darn🤨 but I'll re-listen and try and catch up.😁
2:25
every video guy in the back ... lolz