Broadhead Tuning Pt. 2: Micro Adjusting your Rest
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2024
- In this video I cover how to make minor adjustments to your rest to ensure your broadheads and field points impact the same spot. This is more relevant for those of you shooting fixed blade broadheads, as expendables will pretty much always impact the same as your field points.
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@Inside_Out_Precision
Most underrated Archery channel on UA-cam, you could very well be the best, its between you and Lancaster Archery
Oh man I APPRECIATE THAT. We're doing our best to reach as many people as we can, but nothing helps more than good word of mouth, so thank you for following along. Please reach out if you have any questions!
@@InsideOutPrecision I have alot of questions... alot less after watching your release, sight and peep videos, but do you have a Facebook or Instagram? What would be the best way too contact you?
If I had to chose, inside out all day long.
Amazing how many videos have the Left/Right Broadhead/Field Point rest tuning wrong. As usual, Inside Out Precision gets it RIGHT!
excellent video!! you absolutely nailed it. There are a lot of myths about bow tuning and you are simplifying it and giving the TRUTH!
Thanks Erick! Glad you liked it. Keep it in the middle 👍
Tried your way of adjusting my rest. I started with about a 5" difference of POI between fixed blades and FP. If I do my part I'm now around 1-1.5" difference. Considering I'm shooting cheap Gold Tips that were pre fletched, I'm pretty pleased. Thanks for your videos, have been very valuable
Great job! Everyone teaches this backwards, you nailed it.
Backwards worked for my setup.
Thanks for the help. Was having some frustration broadhead tuning. Took a break, watched your video and corrected it pretty quick, when I went back out. You know definitely know your stuff.
Awesome, glad to hear it!
I've experienced exactly what you stated, had luck moving rest towards broadhead when hitting left or right but moving rest opposite when shooting high or low. However, usually my field point impact won't move, but the broadhead definitely does!
Great video as usual!! Only thing I’d suggest is shooting your broadhead first so you don’t risk cutting your fletchings.
Never had great results broadhead tuning but i always chased the field point with the broadhead. I’m excited to try this , it doesn’t make sense in my head at all i would think you would want to move the broad head over to your field point but i trust you. Love the channel
Great video dude... Just a thought , everyone talks about making sure your bow is tuned ect, can you do a video on putting a bow back into tune.. Eg, u buy a used bow, which is out of tune, take us through the steps to bring it back into tune..
That's a good idea! I'll put it on the list!!
Awesome man! Thanks for the kind words
What a good video. So glad I heard you say the triax was tuned for broad heads without perfect bullet hole. I was getting too caught up on the perfect bullet hole. Phew! Lol
Thanks for the tips Kellen, I have learned a lot from watching your videos. Keep them coming bro👍🏽💯
Not sure if your still watching your comments but I was having problems with this tried everything. This doesn't really make since when looking at the bow but.... It worked so I'm hitting broad heads and field points together at 50 yards again not sure how it worked but it did so thank you
Felt like I explained why it works pretty well in the video but I’m glad it worked for you!
He’s 100% wrong. You move your rest opposite of where your broadheads are going. Or strengthen or weaken the spine. I bet he’s made money off of this video so he can’t take it down without returning the money.
Spot on instructional....good job.
Ok, so after shooting Rage mechanicals for years out of frustration of tuning fixed blades I started watching videos on this subject. You’re the only one besides Tim Gillingham that gives the correct info. Most say, BH hits left of FP move it towards the FP, and that is incorrect. You move the FP towards the Broadhead on left and right impacts. I had my broadhead hit 5” right of my FP @40yds and moved my rest right just a smudge, and it brought them together. Everyone else on youtube gives the opposite info on this subject. So because you, and Tim Gillingham say do it this way, I tried it. I squared my shafts up so my BH would line up with my blazer vanes , And at 50yds my 3 blade Muzzy 100s cut the fletching off my field point arrow. Needless to say my bow is tuned. It will shoot fixed blades out to 50 yards within an inch or two of the FP arrow. I’m shooting a Hoyt Hyperforce 62lbs with a 410 grain arrow @ 286fps and it’s super accurate. I trust all your info and tips. Thank you and Thanks so much for all your videos.
Awesome man! Yeah, there is a lot of mis information out there. Trying to correct them one at a time haha! Thanks for watching and good shooting to you!
@@InsideOutPrecision Legit question. So you teach this backwards of John Dudley. You really think he is wrong? ua-cam.com/video/lQQnc1axz9U/v-deo.html around 330ish he says opposites attract.
Great video, Last year I did it backwards and somehow got it to work but it took forever to tune. I just got new strings and I can’t wait to try this technique out.
I was having this exact same issue tuning some fixed blades. everyone was saying to move the rest opposite of the Brodhead hits. i tried it, and It would make my braodheads hit center, but push my field point 6" off at 30 yards. did exact what you showed and chased the broadhead hit, after my first adjustment i cut my arrow in half. it blows my mind that 90% of the info our there shows to move the rest opposite of the broadhead strike. Has be be one of the most misinformed things in archery.
Luke. I am totally confused on the subject and Ive been bowhunting for 40 years. My broadheads were grouping well but 4" left. I tried following the advice from this video. However, it made broadhead flight worse. I then moved rest in opposite direction and presto. My broadheads are flying like darts and impacting behind my pin.
Enjoy the vids. Awesome info as a learning tool. I dont own a Mathews or a Hoyt though but I'm sure I can manage adapting the info with the bow i have. 2 thumbs up. Thanks!
Thanks Doug!
Awesome video, I can't tell you your tips work for me or not cause I didn't have a problem with my broadheads not flying like my fieldpoints which surprised me since I never tuned my bow. I guess I got lucky. 👍👍
I’m not sure if you’re still watching the comments but I’m so confused. If your arrow is leaving nock left causing a broadhead to plane to the right, won’t chasing the broadhead (rest to the right) make the arrow MORE nock right and cause the broadhead to fly even further right? I just can’t wrap my head around the logic but everyone says you are correct.
Cheers and I love your videos!
You have to think of it in paper tuning terms. If your arrow is kicking tail left, which way do you move your rest to correct it? This will cause the broadheads to actually come back to left, and the field point to move slightly to the right. But the once their impacting in the same spot, you just move your sight so they’re both in the middle. Moving the rest opposite of the broad head will indeed bring it back to center, but your field point will now be off. In that case I’d rather just move my sight than rest. Keep in mind, this method is really best used when the difference in impact is 5” or less. Any difference in impact greater than that and you need to go back to tuning the bow or play with arrow spine
Good video. Thanks!
I thought Chris correct me if I'm wrong controls the front of the arrow the string controls the back of the Arrow if you're hitting to the right and you move your wrist to the right it's gonna move the arrow further to the right
Your broadhead will move left, your field point will move right. The goal is to get them impacting in the same spot. Once they do you just move your sight until they're in the middle
My broad heads are hitting to the left of my field points. I’ve been moving my rest slightly to the right because that’s what I thought was correct. But that didn’t close the gap any. I’ll try the opposite tomorrow and hopefully that will do the trick.
I just did the exact same thing yesterday ! did that fix it
I am having the same issue. I was moving my rest to the right and not fixing issue. I am going to try moving the rest to the left next time I get a chance to shoot. Did you get your issue fixed?
Way late response but this kid has it wrong. If your broad heads miss left then you move your rest to the right or strengthen the spine of your arrow.
Tail left means arrow tip is right. Help me understand how moving the rest and tip further right makes sense?
So Ive watched several vids on this and all say the opposite of what u said no matter what elevation or windage move the rest opposite
If your broadhead is impacting right of your field points, it's because your arrow is kicking slightly tail left and the blades are catching wind, causing the arrow to plane to the right. So just like paper tuning, if your arrow is tail left, you move the rest to the right to correct it. I know there are a lot of videos out there, but if you just try it you'll see.
Adjusting the sight is as you say but he is talking about adjusting the rest. That’s different.
Been doing this for years.
When you move the rest up to correct for a BH hitting low compared to FP, it makes sense because you are in sense, straitening the angle of the arrow that was formerly angled slightly down at the tip and the blades then steered the arrow down resulting in a low impact. But, the same would be true of a BH hitting right of the FP. The arrow is angled slightly to the right resulting in the BH planning to the right. To correct this you need to move the rest to the left, opposite of the BH impact. This will straighten the arrow angle to the target. You do not want to move it even more to the right which is only going to exaggerate the problem even more, putting the arrow in even more of an angle to the target. If you continue to move the rest to the right to correct a BH hitting to the right, you will eventually have the arrow setting side ways in the bow. You need to straighten it, not create more angle. John Dudley says, "opposites attract" and to move the rest "Opposite of where the BH is hitting.
I hate to say it, but you're actually incorrect. If your broadhead is plaining to the right, it's because your kicking slightly tail left. Just like you would correct a slight tail left tear through paper by moving the rest to the right, you do the same with broadheads. I know this seems counter intuitive, but trust me, it's right. You are moving the tail end of the arrow when you move your rest, not the point.
This WILL cause a shift in impact of both the field point and broadhead, but if they are hitting together, then it's just a sight adjustment. Tim Gillingham, Levi Morgan, Chris Perkins and many other pro's have videos or posts in regards to this
I have wondered about this issue because some people are saying correct one direction and others saying correct the other direction. I think both are correct due to different issues. I believe Matthews issue is due to bow hand torque on the riser and by moving the rest further right will create the issue that he described. I think Inside out is correcting for a string travel issue. It has been my experience that Matthew is correct for my issue. I tend to shoot broadheads left of fieldpoints and is corrected by moving the rest to the right, and I know I have a hand torque issue that is due to wrist angle and the only two ways I can correct that is either shoot a bow with too long a draw length or turn my hand sideways where the bow grip is sitting on my thumb between the joints.
I have also heard that moving the rest will have a bigger point of impact change on fieldpoints than broadheads, and for me that is totally incorrect. For me moving the rest 1/16 of an inch will move the field point about 1/2 inch and broadheads about 6 inches.
Great info like in your every video.
This side way adjustment is confusing many archers, like me. Could you make a video where you explain what happens in arrow flight when broad head hits left or right of field points? Because the right adjustment (rest towards to broad head) sounds opposite to common sense. That's why there are so much misinformation around the internet.
ua-cam.com/video/cTI1TGFJYJM/v-deo.html
That link explains it in detail
@@InsideOutPrecision Thanks!
Good morning. My setup. Mathews Phase 4 33". 70 lbs.
Victory VAP TKO 300. 92 grain SS Outsert. 125 grain Magnus Stinger 515 grains. 17% FOC. Let me start by saying my bow is paper tuned and shooting field points very well.
So my broadheads were grouping well but to the left 4". I moved my rest to the left like you suggested. It made things more erratic. Broadheads were hitting 2"-3" farther left.
I then moved my rest to the right of original location. Now my broadheads are hitting spot on flying like darts. So I'm confused on your reasoning.
Which rest are you shooting? Also where are your field points now hitting?
Archery isn’t an exact science and there are instances where sometimes the opposite of what usually works seems to works for some reason. The only times I’ve seen this method not work was with a cable driven rest like a qad
@@InsideOutPrecision I appreciate your reply. I am not trying to be Confrontational at all. I hope you dont take it that why. I am shooting a Mathews QAD Ultra rest cable drive.
After I adjusted my rest to correct my broadheads, I came up to my local pro shop. I was talking to him about this subject. He too said he sees both ways of broadhead tuning on UA-cam. He shoots a limb driven Hampskee Epsilon. He also moves his rest opposite of broadhead impact.
As far as field points impact. When I shot at the shop today. Indeed my field points were impacting a few inches right
So I am definitely up for trying to learn more about your method
This makes sense! But if I move my rest my paper tuning is out ? If was perfect before
Well just because it shot a bullet hole at 10 ft doesn’t mean the arrow is still flying straight at 15 yds. A bullet hole is just a starting point.
@@InsideOutPrecision thanks man ! I did it ! Now both broadheads and field point comes very close the only bizarre thing is I fought when I move arrow rest to ward broadhead (right) will change field point but I still hit centre will field point and with broadhead ! A little off from bullet hole but works great 👍 with both
I thought it was opposite the problem in any direction? That’s what I have heard the past 5 videos
I know, it's a very common misconception. If my broadhead is hitting to the right and I move my rest to left, yes, my broadhead will move to the left, but so will my field tip. The goal is to get them to hit together. If my broadhead is hitting right of my field point, its because my arrow is kicking slightly tail left, causing the Broadway to plane to the right. So to correct a tail left tear, you need to move your rest to the right (towards the broad head.) Yes this will cause your field point to now impact to the right a little, but it should be bright next to your broadhead. Then it's just a matter of moving my sight to get them in the middle.
So like everybody is saying lol that every UA-cam vid says if your bh is shooting to the left of your fp, move your rest to the right. Makes sense to me but didn’t work. If I move my rest to the left I just feel like my arrow will be aiming more left?! Dude you should think about making a part 2 of this vid and possibly give us a demonstration on how it works
Yeah I probably should. Here's the thing- if your bh is impacting to the right of your field tip, then yes, moving your rest to the left will bring the broadhead to left, but it will also shift your your field tip to the left, meanj g the gap between the two will stay the same if not get bigger. If you move the rest to the right, it will shift your point if impact for both but and ft, but they should hit in the same place. Then it's just a matter of moving your sight
I see the coffee mugs in the back ground. Can you send me a link so I can purchase one?
Hello I have a Bowtech bow sniper at 50 lbs ( draw weight ) what should max distance be when hunting deer?
Im not sure why this was so hard for people to understand....broadhead left is a tail right and your fletchings self corrected in flight....as they should.....but you just correct this as you would a left or right or up or down paper tear....
It’s because he’s wrong. If my broadhead misses left of my field points, it’s because my spine is too strong or the arrow rest needs to go right. This video was completely wrong. But I bet he’s made money off of it so he won’t take it down.
I have a mathews and when I shoot a broadhead it hits left of the field point but my rest is as far left as it goes what should I do
You need to center your rest back up and use the top hats to achieve a bullet hole through paper. Then make any micro adjustments with your rest to get your broadheads to hit with your field points
Do u guys have a website? I love ur videos. I learn something new every time I watch one of ur videos
Glad to hear the videos are helping! No website yet but you can check us out on Instagram @inside_out_precision 👍
Hi I have a question my fiield points are dead on broadheads 10 inch low at 50 yards I moved the rest up now broadheads are dead on but field points 10 inches high have you any idea
What distance would you suggest broadhead tuning from?
So, I totally believe you about how you may not get a perfect bullet hole after broadhead tuning. But, why is that? If the arrow is coming out perfectly straight it would make sense that there is a bullet hole. I recently just did this with bare shaft tuning like your video said, and I had to move my rest quite a bit to see results. Anyways, just curious why that is. Thanks.
Shooting through paper is only a few feet away and doesn't account for the blade catching wind and exadurating the slight tail left/right that's occuring. By 20m the arrow would be way off
Having issues getting my broadheads and field points to line up. Watched your video many times and I still haven’t figured it out. My field points and broadheads are grouping great to 60 yards. The broadheads are hitting about 6” right of field points at 40 yards. I’ve tried to yoke tune it further but it’s putting too much cam lean for my liking so I started moving the rest to the right. The gap continues to be about 4-6” right no matter how far I move my rest over. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Bow is bowtech btx 28. 340spine,27” arrows, 26.5” dL, 70 lbs
Those arrows are going to be stiff at that length. Either put more weight up front or cut them to like 28"
you need to make a video demonstrating this theory so shutdown nay sayers.
Thought you were supposed to chase your field points? say my field tips are hitting left and broadhead hitting right, I thought moving the rest to the left would bring them together because it will cause a greater affect on the broadheads than field points.
So if your field points are in the middle of the spot and your broadheads are hitting right, it's because your arrow is kicking slightly tail left, which points the broadhead to the right. With a fixed blade broadhead, the blades catch wind and cause the arrow to plane to the right. So by moving the rest towards the broadhead head (right) it alleviates the tail left kick. this will also cause your field trip to impact to the right because you moved the rest, but if they both impact in the same spot, then it's just a simple gang adjustment of your sight.
@@InsideOutPrecision this is wrong according to John Dudley, Chris Bee, Jesse Broadwater and Lancaster archery. What the hell man? Take this shit down. Or have you made too much money that you don’t want to take it down?
You mentioned bows with yokes will need to twist the yoke strings. Would Prime bows be in that categories? Also, what if you dont havw a press to twist the cables? Would adjusting the rest be ok?
No, prines don't have adjustable yokes. And yes, if you don't have a press you are limited to your rest
@@InsideOutPrecision awesome. Thanks!!!
i'm a fan of your videos and insight but I was trying this at 60 yards (VXR 28, 75lbs, 29 inch draw, 28.5 inch arrow, 280 spine 4mm fmj injections, wasp drone heads 100gr) and my field points and b.heads were holding decent groups 5-6 inches apart no matter which way i moved the rest I couldn't get them to group together. I was moving the rest in 1/32 increments. Any tips? thanks
Your a little over spined with a 280 cut that short. I'm guessing your broadheads consistently were left of your field points?
@@InsideOutPrecision yes. Would 125 grain heads help or possibly changing my fletchings. Im running 4x 90° blazer heat vanes. Thank you.
I love your videos and have learned a lot! Best archery information on UA-cam! I’m shooting a Halon 6, 29 DL, 70lbs with Easton Axis 300 spine with 125 grain Shuttle T broadheads. Arrows are cut to 28.25 inches. Do you think I’m overspined? Bow is tuned and getting good bullet holes but can’t bring my field tips and broadheads together. When I make micro adjustments to my rest it moves both of them to the right. Any thoughts would be appreciated. September 7 is opening day here in MT! Thanks !
I don't think spine is your issue. And yes, moving your rest right will cause both to hit right, but if they are hitting in the same spot then you just adjust your Sight.
Also, make sure the ends of your arrows are squared up and there isn't any wobble when you spin them with the broadhead
Yes, I have squared all my arrows and even aligned my broadheads with the arrow vanes. Clarification, my broadheads are hitting about 1.5 inches to the right of my field tips. After making several micro adjustments(1/32 inch at a time) to the right it pushes them both right however the 1.5 inch difference is still there. So, broadheads are now 3 inches right of my aiming point and field tips are 1.5 inches to the right of my aiming point. Thanks again for any thoughts.
@@cwilson80 I would just bump my sight then until the broad head hit where I'm aiming. 1.5" is a pretty darn good group
Thanks for taking the time to share your advice. I appreciate it!
I have seen many videos on this and they say move the rest opposite of the impact. Even John Dudley says to move the rest opposite of the arrow impact.
Amen. This kid is 100% wrong. Still waiting for him to take this video down. But if he does I bet he has to pay back the money it has given him. So he won’t.
So you may have answered this but I'm a little slow. So let's say I've put my bow on a draw board and have put twist in and taken twists out to take care of cam lean but my broadheads are still off left and right. I dont want to mess with the yokes since my cam lean is good, can I just skip the yoke tuning for broadheads and just move my rest? Thanks
Well the cam is designed to leaned one way or the other with the yokes. You can move your rest too, but if given the option I'd much rather yoke tune.
You cam SHOULD lean slightly one way for the other. Very rarely will it shoot a bullet hole through paper when the cam has no lean to it.
What about at full draw, should there be any lean? Thanks for the response btw
@@hieuhn99 yeah if theres lean at rest there will be lean at full draw. Center up your rest and shoot through paper. If you're ripping tail right for example, put a twist in the right yoke and take one out of the left yoke. Make sure you do in one side and out of the other, or you'll change your cam timing as you twist up your yoke
I’ve watched the video and I keep having the same result. Broadhead is perfect inline with field tip, just 8” low. I’ve moved my rest up and still the same issue. I changed weights in the front and vanes in the back and still the same issue. What to do next?
Is your cam timing on? Is it shooting bullet holes through paper?
Inside Out Precision it’s shooting bullet holes through paper fletched and bare shaft. It bareshaft tunes out to 20 yards and it’s been nock tuned. It group tunes and walk back tunes perfect. No contact with vanes either and my cams are in time.
Hoyt nitrum 34 , 30”/70 set in spec. Shooting gold tip black label 3 or 4 fletch blazer x vanes 2.25”, standard nock and insert, 100 grains fact weights up front with 125 grain points. Arrows spin true
It’s also shooting perfect at 20-40 yards with broadheads and field points but at 60 is where I’m having problems
@@apbt8220 most likely its just starting to nose dive once its velocity starts to decrease at distance. That's a ton of weight up front. I know what guys like the ranch fairy say about high FOC, but flight characteristics suffer at distance with it. There isn't a pro out there who hunts with anything over about 18% foc for the exact reason you're talking about.
Also, if one arrow is 3 fletch and the other 4, obviously the 4 fletch will hit lower due to the extra drag. I assume you already knew that, just making sure hahs.
Where you get that hoodie
Born and Raised Outdoors website.
How would I apply this if my BH are shooting lower than my FP? Move my rest down?
No I am pretty sure Kellen said if you are hitting low with the broadhead to move your rest up.
Hahahah.. I have now heard him make a MISTAKE.. I have watched every video he has made.. now 1 and only 1 mistake.. you ALWAYS shoot you broadhead FIRST THEN the field point.. if you hit the other arrow, it will more than likely DAMAGE the other arrow..
As a beginner this was all gibberish. Guess this is not a Channel for me.
I need someone to clarify this for me. I feel like he is giving the exact opposite advice from those like John Dudley, Chris Bee, Jesse Broadwater and Lancaster archery. Did he say if your broadheads are missing to the right then move your rest to the right?
Yes that’s exactly what I’m saying.
@@InsideOutPrecision oh dear. You are wrong. You move your rest towards your field points. Not towards your broadheads. Do you want me to share videos of people like John Dudley proving you wrong. Time to take down this video bud.
@@InsideOutPrecision yikes bud. Jesse Broadwater, John Dudley, Chris Bee, Levi Morgan, and Lancaster archery disagree with you. Time to rethink your thoughts.
@@Spencer-4 Tim gillingham, Dan Evans, Wayne Endicott and the like all agree with me. Let’s say your broad head is 2” left of your field point. Thats because the tail of your arrow is kicking right, which points the front of the arrow left. The blades then catch wind and and the arrow planes left. If you have a tail right tear through paper, which way do you move the rest? When you use the method I explain in this video, the goal is to get your broadhead and field point to hit in the same spot. Yes your field point will hit slightly left, but your broad head will come back to the right. Once they’re hitting together, you move your sight until they’re both in the middle.
Sure , if my broadhead hits left of my field point and I move my rest to the right, it will move the point of impact to the right. But the point of impact of the field point will also move to the right. So why not just move your sight if that’s the goal. Try it. I promise you it works
@@Spencer-4 also, all those guys shoot mechanical broadheads. This is about fixed blades
This is all good IF you have a adjustable rest, most dont, so then back to adjusting pins
Literally all rests except the most basic whisker biscuit ate adjustable.
@@InsideOutPrecision nope, your wrong there, go to bow shop & check out the bows, you will see maybe 1/2 of them might be adjustable.
@@ronringwald5120 Dude I've worked at a pro shop for 6 years. I've seen darn near every rest on the market. Even a whisker biscuit adjusts left/right.
@@ronringwald5120 I mean if you can tell me which rests don't have any adjustment I'd love to know so I can avoid ever selling them.
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