Have the A8A and running a 7 1 4. Rather than drill my ceiling out i opted for svs prime elevation on side walls for atmos heights. Getting great results.
That is the great thing about a good amplifier - you can keep it in service across multiple generations of receivers/processors. Glad you are enjoying the A6A. -Jon
I think the A8A is a great choice for systems up to 7.2.4, which is the sweet spot for immersive configurations today. Hope you enjoy - let me know your impressions after some use. -Jon
Great video. So.... I've recently changed my Marantz SR8015 to the Denon A1 H. It's a beast no doubt, but very much still has that "Denon" sound. I'm going to run this for another month then purchase the Marantz AV 10. At the present moment, I'm still a Yamaha guy!! Without a doubt. I believe the updated models of Yamaha should be out soon, so looking forward to those!
I’ll be very interested in your comparison between Denon and Marantz flagship models. I hadn’t heard anything about Yamaha releasing a new line up soon - that would be welcome. Hopefully they revise the front display in the process. -Jon
Great honest overview. Ive been using the 2080 for years and keep waiting for something new in receiver line from Yamaha. I may just jump on the A6A since Yamaha is so silent on new receivers release dates
Yes - Yamaha doesn’t post much on upcoming models. Glad the video helped. The A6A would be good for 7.2.4. If you have 2 channels of external amplifiers. -Jon
Hey John just to correct your statement about adjusting target curves these Yamaha's all have web based full PEQ(Yamaha Web Control). They are probably as or more adjustable than audessey or Dirac. They are known to be the most adjustable AVR's in the industry. But Yamaha dosn't advertise it well as they assume only pro installers will be using it.
Thanks so much for raising. Wish I still had a unit in house to play with that interface more. Does the manual PEQ interface although for adjustment of the YPAO correction? -Jon
@@ripewave Not sure, i have a Umik-1 microphone and keep meaning to give it a try on my CX-A5200 but haven't had time. I believe you can use the ypao results as a base and then adjust from there. Or just do you own full calibration off REW.
@@ripewave Will do once I get everything calibrated. How do you like Magic Beans? This will be my first Yamaha avr after using Denon, Pioneer, Onkyo and Arcam.
@@ripewave Got the Yamaha A8A on Friday and set everything up on Saturday. Did YPAO and boy does this AVR have power and sounds very good with my KEF set up. I will do manual PEQ later, but for now I'm happy with the way it sounds.
Hi John, Thanks for your great sharing. I manage to replace my broken Onkyo TX NR676 and I used to paired it with My Yamaha speakers and Yamaha 8" subwoofer for 5.1 setting. I think they get along quite well. I plan to get the latest upgrade to Onkyo 6 series, which is TX NR6100, but after see your review I consider about Yamaha RX A2A too. Since this one is AVENTAGE line up from Yamaha receivers. From your opinion, which one should I get? I want to upgrade from 5.1 to 5.1.2 Atmos configuration. Fyi, I still using the Yamaha speakers for front (Yamaha NS-F500), center (Yamaha NS-C500) and surround (Yamaha NS-B500) channels, but for subwoofer I replace it with SVS PB2000 pro and Ceiling speaker I use pair of B&W CCM663. Thanks for advance
Everyone should use the manual EQ. It´s better than YPAO alone, but you can use YPAO Natural as a template to do your own setting. If you know your room modes, choose the next nearest frequency and use the highest possible Q-factor. Then, take out just a few decibels before it sounds too thin. That was the way in my room to get the best result.
My older VX 677 (I think) ypao wasn't able to notice the 157hz peak my homemade khorns have (all khorns have this unless the latest model with a notch filter built into the crossover). I had to manually take down that freq. by doing the eq manual.
Thank you for your review. I intend to use a discrete 4 channel analog source with the A8A. It doesn't have multi-channel discrete analog inputs but: The way i figure the solution to use the main zone for the L-R front and use zone 2 or zone 3 for the rear L-R channels. Has anyone ever tried this? I still haven't got my RX-A8A to try it out.
Sounds creative. So you use two stereo analog inputs. Input 1 for the front channel which you set to the main source and Input 2 for the rear channels which you set to as the source for zone 2 (or zone 3). They you will need to wire zone 2/3 output to your speakers. Perhaps use a speaker a/b switch to toggle from zone 2/3 to the normal rear outputs. Let me know if that worked for you. -Jon
When it comes to passing through video for say a DVD player or a Roku it does OK but it sucks when trying to passthrough video from an Nvidia RTX 4090 GPU, I'm constantly having to power cycle my RX-A4A receiver in order to get the video straightened out once after logging out of a game, I get video flickering from light to dark. Once I power off and back on the receiver the video imaging is back to normal, I can also solve the issue by turning off HDR and then turning it back on in window settings but it all leads back to the receiver not handling the single properly. I'm at the point now that I'm done with it and going to bypass the video signal and go straight to the smart TV and using an sound card with optical out thus diminishing the audio quality from HDMI when viewing from the PC which again sucks. Sound is it's strong point, handling video not so much.
For PC/Nvidia outs, you need to have two separate hdmi cables going to an AV receiver or pre amp. One for video and another for audio. Then config the card to get separate signals for each cable. The issue you just mentioned isn't specific to Yamaha. It's a very common hand shake issue. Let me know if you try it and it helps.
HDMI is such a fragile protocol. The roll out of version 2.1 was so poor it resulted in many variations with its implementation. Each device in the path needs to be able to handle the messages in the same way and without strong governance to ensure consistent compliance with the HDMI 2.1 standard, you get these types issues. Sometimes you are lucky and all devices in your chain are using the same dialect and are configured in the same way. -Jon
John, what external amp would you use if you wanted to take advantage of the balanced pre-outs for the front? Yamaha used to make a 2-channel amp (MX-1) but it did not have balanced inputs, and an 11-channel external amp (MXA5200B) with balanced inputs, but both appear to have been discontinued. I am surprised that they did not produce a matching external amp to complement their Aventage AVR line up. I have an A8A, and mistakenly thought I could configure it with 5.2.4 (bi-amped) + Zone 1. It turns out that I can either do 5.2.4 bi-amped with no other zones, or I can do a 7.2.4 with Zone 1. This doesn't make a lot of sense to me, since it's the same number of amplified channels either way. As such, I am thinking about getting an A2A for my Zone 1 so that I can retain the bi-amped configuration, UNLESS there's a suitable external amp that would provide the power to my front speakers and allow me to then use the rest of the amplified channels for my other speakers including Zone 1. I welcome your thoughts. Thank you!
The biggest benefit of having "matching" amplifiers is that they are cosmetic matches. However, you should not worry too much if an amplifier is from another brand - it can still blend well with the other channels. I like your idea of buying an A2A for zone 2. You may also consider buying a 2-channel amp for similar cost ($800-$900) as the A2A. You may find it sounds better than the internal amps of the Yamaha. As a result, powering the front speakers externally. If the external amp is really good, bi-amplfication may not be necssary. One large is usually better than two small. -Jon
Why are Yamaha receivere so expensive in Europe? The denon 4800 is as expensive as the A4A here for example and they both are made in Japan i assume? Im doubting between those receivers because i hear the A4A has such an amazing sound. But much better than the 4800?
Why do you wish that there was an XLR balanced subwoofer output? I can't imagine a scenerio where balanced audio would benefit a subwoofer, it's just to minimize noise which you shouldn't hear anyway from such a low passed speaker. What am I missing?
I believe you are suggesting that a noise introduced into a cable running to a subwoofer would be a frequencies the subwoofer would not be producing. That is a fair point. However power interference can introduce 120Hz noise within the range of most subwoofers and can be an annoying hum. The low pass filter idea is an option, but it must be on the subwoofer itself. The low filter on the AVR/AVP does not filter out noise introduced in the cable to the subwoofer. Some subwoofers may have their own low pass filter, but you must be willing to cut below 120Hz. As my subwoofer cable are run inside the walls and may pass by electrical wires or transformers, having the balanced connection gives me confidence that any noise will be filtered out on the receiving end. -Jon
Great details, thanks. I have a 5.1.2 system running on an older RXA660 Yam avr. Thinking of upgrading to A4A & new front L/R speakers (match my cc). But now the Sony Quad is the competition. I would get a 4.1.4 with the Sony and a bit less clutter and maybe some simplification of my HT electronics. 99% HT/tv with sources being streaming & DVDs. Your opinion ?
I like where Sony is going with their wireless Quad system for Bravia TVs to fit into today’s lifestyle with a few components as possible. That system still requires a power outlet for each speaker, which could be a challenge for some locations. If your power outlets or room force you to a less ideal location, their 369 spacial sound mapping helps restore the experience. An improvement over soundbars as you now have a true stereo image. Comparing with Yamaha, you will need to balance between convenience and performance. How much better is a traditional Yamaha style setup will depend on how well Sony executed their new Quad system. That I won’t know unless I can experience myself and currently don’t have a Bravia TV which is required. My main worry even if Sony have this perfect is the solution locks you into a Sony ecosystem for all main components. What happens if Sony drops or changes the technology? At $2,500 the loss in the audio portion is about the same as if your AV Receiver goes out of date- so perhaps the risk is nothing of concern and you save on speaker cost. -Jon
Friend, please tell me if I want to watch mostly movies in the e-ac3 and ac3 audio codec, this is Dolby, and if I have speakers with built-in amplifiers that have optical and Aux outputs. In this case, does it make sense for me to buy an expensive receiver like a Yamaha, since you say it has the best sound, but my speakers have built-in amplification and they can only receive a signal from the receiver. Or is the Onkyo tx sr494 for $350 enough for me? And in general, I don’t know whether channel control will work with active speakers?
Fair question. The quality of the Yamaha extends to its processing capabilities and other internal circuits before the amplification stage. I tested with 100% external amplifiers, which is what you have with your self-powered speakers. You will hear a difference with your speakers vs what you would experience with the sr494. -Jon
I need to get back into the beans. Last year I did try the Yamaha with Magic Beans and it worked. At that time multi-sub was not available. Perhaps he has made progress in that area. -Jon
So I’m looking to upgrade from a 2008 Harman/Kardon that has phenomenal sound quality…. Which is why I’ve held on to all these years. Now I am wanting a serious upgrade and looking at the Yamaha A4A… is there another quality AVR I should consider? I need the 4K/120fps for gaming plus 8k… which almost all can support now. I’m not a fan of Onkyo… Thanks in advance for any advice
I, too, am looking to upgrade my HTS from SONY HTS nearly 20 years old and still kicking! I've come across 3 AVR's to choose from so these other 2 you may also consider. DENON AVR-X4800H and the MIRANTZ CINEMA 50. The MIRANTZ has the less of wattage compared to the other 2 but I've been told the sound quality is great!
The new Yamaha units sounded better to me than the Marantz models. However, the Marantz models Cinema 40 and better still sound very good (almost as good) and are more feature rich. -Jon
I own the A6A. but recently it did a firmware update. For some odd reason, I can access the web interface with a minimal network setup. Otherwise, the old firmware allowed you to simply type in the IP address. and have full web access to the receiver. That's gone. any tips?
First confirm that the IP address of the A6A didn’t change with the update and it is on the same network segment as your browser device (I.e. the first three numbers of the address match, but not the forth which needs to be different: Example Computer = 192.9.2.1 Yamaha = 192.9.2.151 If that is good then we need to see if you now need to add something to the address (e.g. /setup) You may need to type that (/setup) manually now.
If you see specs A2A is a carbon copy of the budget RX-V6A with HDMI 2.1 limited to 24Gbps so you can't feed 8K 60Hz uncompressed if you are planning to future proof it, what a bummer for Avantage entry level. A4A onwards its all 40Gbps and ESS Sabre DAC as opposed to BB1502A both in A2A and V6A. Doesn't make sense to buy A2A if at all anyone is planning, buy V6A instead or A4A onwards for Avantage.
You point out a very important detail. As consumers we need to look beyond the basic "8K" and "HDMI 2.1" support badges on products. We need to understand to what level those are supported and the throughput matters. 24Gbps is not acceptable. We see 40Gbps units at best today, and none that support the full HDMI 2.1 standard rate of 48Gbps. Thanks for the advice on the Yamaha models below the V6A or A4A. -Jon
Sir, between the Yamaha RX-A4A and the NAD T758 V3i, which one do you recommend? I generally spend 40% of my time watching OTT content and 60-70% listening to music.
@@jC-kc4si my 3050 was very old and didn't support Dolby Vision and HDMI 2.1, so as far as features go this was a pretty significant upgrade however, because I routed the 3 front channels to a power amp, I can't say if the A8A offers any major improvements in sound quality Since you're using the 1050 I guess it is a worthwhile upgrade but I would also say it depends on your use case as most of the new HDMI 2.1 features generally are for gaming
Hopefully the A8A is working out for you. Yes - these newer models have several features that the prior generations didn’t have. Yes - we still have a Wiiu. That console doesn’t get much use. The kids alternate between Nintendo Switch and Sony PlayStation 5. They use the Switch the most despite now having the capabilities of the PS5. -Jon
@@ripewaveone thing that perplexed me about the A8A is the lack of DSD decoding. On my Oppo, I had to configure SACD output to DoP, otherwise I can’t listen to SACDs. My Wii U is still active although it’s not used as frequently as other consoles like the PS2 or Xbox 360
Hope the A8A is working out. Yes - those moving from prior generations will gain a few features. That is a WiiU in the background. Doesn’t get much play nowadays. We have a PS5 and Nintendo Switch that gets regular use. -Jon
John, is there any point in upgrading from my 4 year old Yamaha 2070 to RX 8A? I plan to upgrade the speaker set up from 9 to 11 channels. Can I expect a better sound quality
I would need to study that older model to provide guidance. One thing I can say is that Yamaha improved their YPAO room calibration which if all else is equal or better - you should hear an improvement. -Jon
I have the RX V6A and I love it...I want to upgrade to a 9 channel AVR...but I refuse to pay a thousand dollars more then a Pioneer... Onkyo or Denon...why can't Yamaha come out with an affordable 9 channel AVR like the competition...
It do seem that Yamaha is reluctant to add more channels to a price point. How does the features of the RX-V6A compare to those presented in the video? -Jon
The RX V6A is basically the same as the A2A...It doesn't have the PEQ...it has a GEQ...it doesn't have the 5th foot...it has 100 watts per channel ...but the A6A it not worth a thousand more then the competition
I’ve used a A8A for two years and I must say it has been glitchy with EARC at times I don’t get sound and distortion on occasion. The two ch performance isn’t even close (I have a McIntosh C2600 (Has Ht passthru) n two monoblock amps for my fronts for my two ch music listening and when I switch over it’s better by a night and day difference. But overall it’s great for home theater however it is to be noted if you are planing on using all internal amps it gives very little power to the surrounds. Regarding the balanced outputs according to Gene at audiohilics it’s fake balanced and he isn’t a fan of how low. The wattage goes I believe maybe 55 at All ch driven plus he found unusual distortion in tests in the center channel I would say the one to buy right now is the Integra 8.4
You are half correct, the CC distortion was measurement related and not something that can be heard and the 55w limit was due to built in protection under bench testing ("nanny" according to Jean) and not in real world use. And of course Mc with mono blocks will sound better than almost any AVR.
It has been a while since I watched the Audioholics video with the A8A. My recollection was that Gene gave a very favorable rating of the build quality and performance. With that I am not surprised that the McIntosh equipment in home theater bypass mode would outperform. It may outperform most AV Receivers under $5,000. External amps will certainly take that differential to another level. I am assuming you never use the internal amps for the speakers you have McIntosh amps driving. You are correct about balance outputs and fully balance outputs where the signal in maintained internally through the unit and not just the end stage. -Jon
I would more to the latest generation receivers if you are running 4K 120hz games. So not the SR8015. The rest will sound good for music. The cinema 30 will be noticeably better than the Cinema 40. After that pick on speaker layout support required for your setup and features. -Jon
@@ripewave Ok, thanks, however the sr8015 has an HDMI 2.1 4K 120Hz port. The price of the Cinema 30 is double. Could you recommend another model even if it's not Marantz? Yamaha Rx-a8a for example?
I can, but would need to know other factors like your target speaker layout and preference for room calibration tools. Video has been the most difficult capability for brands to implement correctly. They got a lot better with the most recent generations of products but still room for improvement. You are looking for good gaming performance. Another approach would be to plug your game console directly into your TV then eARC the audio back to the Av Receiver. You loose On-Screen Display for the AVR, but ensure that the video performance is maximized. For HDMi 2.1 to work well, each device in the chain much have the same capabilities and settings. Making two devices cooperate is much easier than three. -Jon
ATTENTION ! ! ! ! For YAMAHA, the specified power consumption is at 1/8 of the maximum output power! I've had an RX-A8A for over two years and have compared it in my own cinema: Denon X6700 and X6800 and Pioneer 805. The only one that comes close to the A8A in terms of sound is the Pioneer. BUT its software and usability is so much worse than the Yamaha that the A8A has stayed!
Is the best reason to buy a Yamaha Aventage AVR that you are trying to throw away your money, or you're a masochist, or both? I suppose some form or mental illness could also be the impetus to buy a Yamaha Aventage. I have a Yamaha Aventage receiver. And it's AVENTAGE, not "Adventage." You're an "audio guy?" A "professional?" Clearly, not. Are these Yamaha receivers the most horrible, horrible receivers created in the world ever? Many would enthusiastically say they are electronic garbage. Everybody has an opinion, but purporting to be a professional requires your opinion to actually not be total BS. Again, placing you in the "non-pro" category, and your opinion is actually more ignorable and more wrong than most people's. I have spoken to Yamaha's HQ about the issue of just how bad these receivers are. If you were in grade school, and designed one of these receivers, you might have been proud of your EE skills. An adult EE, or a team of engineers having designed these receivers, at a minimum, should feel shame, embarrassment, and quit their job. What would be more appropriate, given Yamaha is a Japanese company, would be for the engineer, or engineers, to practice the time-honored Japanese tradition of atoning for their shameful behavior with something similar to Seppuku. I have owned many receivers over the years. I heard good things about Yamaha. Those people saying anything positive about these Yamaha receivers clearly was suffering from some form of cerebral crisis. Stroke? Hard to say, but clearly major brain damage had occurred at some point prior to, or during the designing of these pieces of audio garbage. I'm ashamed to even admit to the world that I own one of these. It's obvious evidence of extreme stupidity on my part. "Sure, it makes all the sense in the world to have cheesy digital emulation that pretends to mimic the ambiance of various public venues taking absolute center stage in the AVR's functioning." Slapping a 1980's era $8 reverb chip from Radio Shack into your audio gear, AND making it such a central feature shows an extraordinary lack of judgment. I could think of dumber design choices, but only barely. This is just one example of the stupid that went into these receivers. There are many other examples. I won't waste my time explaining them here. My Aventage has already robbed me of dignity. I don't want it to rob me of precious time to. My advice: ask yourself if you hate yourself enough to BUY A YAMAHA AVENTAGE AVR. If one is given to you, throw it away immediately and report the person who gave it to you to the authorities. They clearly have a deep, dark, pathologically psychotic history that they are hiding. Only the truly insane could think the Aventage is anything other than complete garbage. But hey, I'm no "pro" audio guy, like Mr. Pipewave Audio is. I'm just an Aventage owner, which is a group of people notable for their complete lack of good judgment when buying audio gear.
It’s okay to disagree with my perspective. Perspective buyers should consider all knowledge when making a decision. Ultimately it is your opinion that matters to most. -Jon
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Have the A8A and running a 7 1 4. Rather than drill my ceiling out i opted for svs prime elevation on side walls for atmos heights. Getting great results.
Nah,just put them on ceiling at 55 angle,and toe in.angle is everything in atmos
I think that is a great option. -Jon
Got a A6A with a vintage MX-830 power amplifier for the fronts sound is amazing very clean and powerful no complaints great setup 👍
That is the great thing about a good amplifier - you can keep it in service across multiple generations of receivers/processors. Glad you are enjoying the A6A. -Jon
Pulling the trigger on the A8A for a new media room build down in Nashville.
I think the A8A is a great choice for systems up to 7.2.4, which is the sweet spot for immersive configurations today. Hope you enjoy - let me know your impressions after some use. -Jon
@@ripewaveindeed going 7.2.4 with the atmos in the ceiling. I subscribed so have to circle back and let you know how it came out.
@@ripewave my actual layout is 7.1.4, with Marantz sr6012 + amp
Great video.
So.... I've recently changed my Marantz SR8015 to the Denon A1 H. It's a beast no doubt, but very much still has that "Denon" sound.
I'm going to run this for another month then purchase the Marantz AV 10. At the present moment, I'm still a Yamaha guy!! Without a doubt. I believe the updated models of Yamaha should be out soon, so looking forward to those!
I’ll be very interested in your comparison between Denon and Marantz flagship models. I hadn’t heard anything about Yamaha releasing a new line up soon - that would be welcome. Hopefully they revise the front display in the process. -Jon
Great honest overview. Ive been using the 2080 for years and keep waiting for something new in receiver line from Yamaha. I may just jump on the A6A since Yamaha is so silent on new receivers release dates
the A6A is 99% identical to you 2080. Look at Accessories 4 less they have the A8A on for $1800usd right now
@@3184Patrick Thanks,All I need is able to run 7.2.4 with external amp which the 2020 cant do.
Yes - Yamaha doesn’t post much on upcoming models. Glad the video helped. The A6A would be good for 7.2.4. If you have 2 channels of external amplifiers. -Jon
Thanks!
So glad you enjoyed the Yamaha video. Thanks so much for the donation! -Jon
Hey John just to correct your statement about adjusting target curves these Yamaha's all have web based full PEQ(Yamaha Web Control). They are probably as or more adjustable than audessey or Dirac. They are known to be the most adjustable AVR's in the industry. But Yamaha dosn't advertise it well as they assume only pro installers will be using it.
Thanks so much for raising. Wish I still had a unit in house to play with that interface more. Does the manual PEQ interface although for adjustment of the YPAO correction? -Jon
@@ripewave Not sure, i have a Umik-1 microphone and keep meaning to give it a try on my CX-A5200 but haven't had time. I believe you can use the ypao results as a base and then adjust from there. Or just do you own full calibration off REW.
I just did the same thing and got A8A for my set-up based on your review on A8A. Should get it on Monday or sooner, hurry up FedEx. 😂
FedEx can never come fast enough when you have ordered new equipment! I hope you enjoy. Let me know what you think. -Jon
@@ripewave Will do once I get everything calibrated. How do you like Magic Beans? This will be my first Yamaha avr after using Denon, Pioneer, Onkyo and Arcam.
@@ripewave Got the Yamaha A8A on Friday and set everything up on Saturday. Did YPAO and boy does this AVR have power and sounds very good with my KEF set up. I will do manual PEQ later, but for now I'm happy with the way it sounds.
Hi John, Thanks for your great sharing.
I manage to replace my broken Onkyo TX NR676 and I used to paired it with My Yamaha speakers and Yamaha 8" subwoofer for 5.1 setting. I think they get along quite well.
I plan to get the latest upgrade to Onkyo 6 series, which is TX NR6100, but after see your review I consider about Yamaha RX A2A too. Since this one is AVENTAGE line up from Yamaha receivers.
From your opinion, which one should I get? I want to upgrade from 5.1 to 5.1.2 Atmos configuration.
Fyi, I still using the Yamaha speakers for front (Yamaha NS-F500), center (Yamaha NS-C500) and surround (Yamaha NS-B500) channels, but for subwoofer I replace it with SVS PB2000 pro and Ceiling speaker I use pair of B&W CCM663.
Thanks for advance
Everyone should use the manual EQ. It´s better than YPAO alone, but you can use YPAO Natural as a template to do your own setting. If you know your room modes, choose the next nearest frequency and use the highest possible Q-factor. Then, take out just a few decibels before it sounds too thin. That was the way in my room to get the best result.
Great tip! -Jon
My older VX 677 (I think) ypao wasn't able to notice the 157hz peak my homemade khorns have (all khorns have this unless the latest model with a notch filter built into the crossover). I had to manually take down that freq. by doing the eq manual.
Thank you for your review. I intend to use a discrete 4 channel analog source with the A8A. It doesn't have multi-channel discrete analog inputs but: The way i figure the solution to use the main zone for the L-R front and use zone 2 or zone 3 for the rear L-R channels. Has anyone ever tried this? I still haven't got my RX-A8A to try it out.
Sounds creative. So you use two stereo analog inputs. Input 1 for the front channel which you set to the main source and Input 2 for the rear channels which you set to as the source for zone 2 (or zone 3). They you will need to wire zone 2/3 output to your speakers. Perhaps use a speaker a/b switch to toggle from zone 2/3 to the normal rear outputs. Let me know if that worked for you. -Jon
When it comes to passing through video for say a DVD player or a Roku it does OK but it sucks when trying to passthrough video from an Nvidia RTX 4090 GPU, I'm constantly having to power cycle my RX-A4A receiver in order to get the video straightened out once after logging out of a game, I get video flickering from light to dark. Once I power off and back on the receiver the video imaging is back to normal, I can also solve the issue by turning off HDR and then turning it back on in window settings but it all leads back to the receiver not handling the single properly.
I'm at the point now that I'm done with it and going to bypass the video signal and go straight to the smart TV and using an sound card with optical out thus diminishing the audio quality from HDMI when viewing from the PC which again sucks.
Sound is it's strong point, handling video not so much.
For PC/Nvidia outs, you need to have two separate hdmi cables going to an AV receiver or pre amp. One for video and another for audio. Then config the card to get separate signals for each cable. The issue you just mentioned isn't specific to Yamaha. It's a very common hand shake issue. Let me know if you try it and it helps.
HDMI is such a fragile protocol. The roll out of version 2.1 was so poor it resulted in many variations with its implementation. Each device in the path needs to be able to handle the messages in the same way and without strong governance to ensure consistent compliance with the HDMI 2.1 standard, you get these types issues. Sometimes you are lucky and all devices in your chain are using the same dialect and are configured in the same way. -Jon
I purchased a RX A8A in December new for $2,200. No other receiver came close.
That is a great price! -Jon
I brought mine around the same time... I love mine
So, after owning a Yamaha A8A for a while, I've noticed that the bass is not as pronounce as my other AVR with Dirac or Audyssey.
Recent Yamaha receivers are "tuned" bright for musical accuracy. I believe there are better options for the Home Theater types.
Interesting
I honestly LOVED my TSR-700 before I went to the Emo MC-1. Still have it and have plans to use it in the future
Yes hold on to models you loved but replaced. They make great second system hosts. -Jon
John, what external amp would you use if you wanted to take advantage of the balanced pre-outs for the front? Yamaha used to make a 2-channel amp (MX-1) but it did not have balanced inputs, and an 11-channel external amp (MXA5200B) with balanced inputs, but both appear to have been discontinued. I am surprised that they did not produce a matching external amp to complement their Aventage AVR line up. I have an A8A, and mistakenly thought I could configure it with 5.2.4 (bi-amped) + Zone 1. It turns out that I can either do 5.2.4 bi-amped with no other zones, or I can do a 7.2.4 with Zone 1. This doesn't make a lot of sense to me, since it's the same number of amplified channels either way. As such, I am thinking about getting an A2A for my Zone 1 so that I can retain the bi-amped configuration, UNLESS there's a suitable external amp that would provide the power to my front speakers and allow me to then use the rest of the amplified channels for my other speakers including Zone 1. I welcome your thoughts. Thank you!
The biggest benefit of having "matching" amplifiers is that they are cosmetic matches. However, you should not worry too much if an amplifier is from another brand - it can still blend well with the other channels. I like your idea of buying an A2A for zone 2. You may also consider buying a 2-channel amp for similar cost ($800-$900) as the A2A. You may find it sounds better than the internal amps of the Yamaha. As a result, powering the front speakers externally. If the external amp is really good, bi-amplfication may not be necssary. One large is usually better than two small. -Jon
Why are Yamaha receivere so expensive in Europe? The denon 4800 is as expensive as the A4A here for example and they both are made in Japan i assume?
Im doubting between those receivers because i hear the A4A has such an amazing sound. But much better than the 4800?
Why do you wish that there was an XLR balanced subwoofer output? I can't imagine a scenerio where balanced audio would benefit a subwoofer, it's just to minimize noise which you shouldn't hear anyway from such a low passed speaker. What am I missing?
I believe you are suggesting that a noise introduced into a cable running to a subwoofer would be a frequencies the subwoofer would not be producing. That is a fair point. However power interference can introduce 120Hz noise within the range of most subwoofers and can be an annoying hum. The low pass filter idea is an option, but it must be on the subwoofer itself. The low filter on the AVR/AVP does not filter out noise introduced in the cable to the subwoofer. Some subwoofers may have their own low pass filter, but you must be willing to cut below 120Hz. As my subwoofer cable are run inside the walls and may pass by electrical wires or transformers, having the balanced connection gives me confidence that any noise will be filtered out on the receiving end. -Jon
Denon 2800h Yamaha a2a or Marantz cinema 70s?????
Great details, thanks. I have a 5.1.2 system running on an older RXA660 Yam avr. Thinking of upgrading to A4A & new front L/R speakers (match my cc). But now the Sony Quad is the competition. I would get a 4.1.4 with the Sony and a bit less clutter and maybe some simplification of my HT electronics. 99% HT/tv with sources being streaming & DVDs. Your opinion ?
I like where Sony is going with their wireless Quad system for Bravia TVs to fit into today’s lifestyle with a few components as possible. That system still requires a power outlet for each speaker, which could be a challenge for some locations. If your power outlets or room force you to a less ideal location, their 369 spacial sound mapping helps restore the experience. An improvement over soundbars as you now have a true stereo image. Comparing with Yamaha, you will need to balance between convenience and performance. How much better is a traditional Yamaha style setup will depend on how well Sony executed their new Quad system. That I won’t know unless I can experience myself and currently don’t have a Bravia TV which is required. My main worry even if Sony have this perfect is the solution locks you into a Sony ecosystem for all main components. What happens if Sony drops or changes the technology? At $2,500 the loss in the audio portion is about the same as if your AV Receiver goes out of date- so perhaps the risk is nothing of concern and you save on speaker cost. -Jon
Friend, please tell me if I want to watch mostly movies in the e-ac3 and ac3 audio codec, this is Dolby, and if I have speakers with built-in amplifiers that have optical and Aux outputs. In this case, does it make sense for me to buy an expensive receiver like a Yamaha, since you say it has the best sound, but my speakers have built-in amplification and they can only receive a signal from the receiver. Or is the Onkyo tx sr494 for $350 enough for me? And in general, I don’t know whether channel control will work with active speakers?
Fair question. The quality of the Yamaha extends to its processing capabilities and other internal circuits before the amplification stage. I tested with 100% external amplifiers, which is what you have with your self-powered speakers. You will hear a difference with your speakers vs what you would experience with the sr494. -Jon
Question for Yamaha owners has anyone used Magic Beans, and how did you like it after calibration vs YPAO? Also, does MB work with multi-subwoofers?
I need to get back into the beans. Last year I did try the Yamaha with Magic Beans and it worked. At that time multi-sub was not available. Perhaps he has made progress in that area. -Jon
@@ripewave Let me know how it goes with MB, thanks.
6/20 AMAZON has the YAMAHA A6A on sale for $1,596 (versus 2,449 list)
Nice! -Jon
So I’m looking to upgrade from a 2008 Harman/Kardon that has phenomenal sound quality…. Which is why I’ve held on to all these years. Now I am wanting a serious upgrade and looking at the Yamaha A4A… is there another quality AVR I should consider? I need the 4K/120fps for gaming plus 8k… which almost all can support now. I’m not a fan of Onkyo… Thanks in advance for any advice
I, too, am looking to upgrade my HTS from SONY HTS nearly 20 years old and still kicking! I've come across 3 AVR's to choose from so these other 2 you may also consider. DENON AVR-X4800H and the MIRANTZ CINEMA 50. The MIRANTZ has the less of wattage compared to the other 2 but I've been told the sound quality is great!
The new Yamaha units sounded better to me than the Marantz models. However, the Marantz models Cinema 40 and better still sound very good (almost as good) and are more feature rich. -Jon
What’s better choice a2a or denon 2800h??
I own the A6A. but recently it did a firmware update. For some odd reason, I can access the web interface with a minimal network setup. Otherwise, the old firmware allowed you to simply type in the IP address. and have full web access to the receiver. That's gone.
any tips?
First confirm that the IP address of the A6A didn’t change with the update and it is on the same network segment as your browser device (I.e. the first three numbers of the address match, but not the forth which needs to be different:
Example
Computer = 192.9.2.1
Yamaha = 192.9.2.151
If that is good then we need to see if you now need to add something to the address (e.g. /setup)
You may need to type that (/setup) manually now.
If you see specs A2A is a carbon copy of the budget RX-V6A with HDMI 2.1 limited to 24Gbps so you can't feed 8K 60Hz uncompressed if you are planning to future proof it, what a bummer for Avantage entry level. A4A onwards its all 40Gbps and ESS Sabre DAC as opposed to BB1502A both in A2A and V6A. Doesn't make sense to buy A2A if at all anyone is planning, buy V6A instead or A4A onwards for Avantage.
You point out a very important detail. As consumers we need to look beyond the basic "8K" and "HDMI 2.1" support badges on products. We need to understand to what level those are supported and the throughput matters. 24Gbps is not acceptable. We see 40Gbps units at best today, and none that support the full HDMI 2.1 standard rate of 48Gbps. Thanks for the advice on the Yamaha models below the V6A or A4A. -Jon
Sir, between the Yamaha RX-A4A and the NAD T758 V3i, which one do you recommend? I generally spend 40% of my time watching OTT content and 60-70% listening to music.
Just bought my A8A last week, upgrading from the 3050... and is that a Wii U I see at the back? :)
How much better is the A*8? I have the 2015 Aventage 1050 and considering A8 currently on sale or $1600.
@@jC-kc4si my 3050 was very old and didn't support Dolby Vision and HDMI 2.1, so as far as features go this was a pretty significant upgrade
however, because I routed the 3 front channels to a power amp, I can't say if the A8A offers any major improvements in sound quality
Since you're using the 1050 I guess it is a worthwhile upgrade but I would also say it depends on your use case as most of the new HDMI 2.1 features generally are for gaming
Hopefully the A8A is working out for you. Yes - these newer models have several features that the prior generations didn’t have.
Yes - we still have a Wiiu. That console doesn’t get much use. The kids alternate between Nintendo Switch and Sony PlayStation 5. They use the Switch the most despite now having the capabilities of the PS5. -Jon
@@ripewaveone thing that perplexed me about the A8A is the lack of DSD decoding.
On my Oppo, I had to configure SACD output to DoP, otherwise I can’t listen to SACDs.
My Wii U is still active although it’s not used as frequently as other consoles like the PS2 or Xbox 360
Hope the A8A is working out. Yes - those moving from prior generations will gain a few features.
That is a WiiU in the background. Doesn’t get much play nowadays. We have a PS5 and Nintendo Switch that gets regular use. -Jon
John, is there any point in upgrading from my 4 year old Yamaha 2070 to RX 8A? I plan to upgrade the speaker set up from 9 to 11 channels. Can I expect a better sound quality
I would need to study that older model to provide guidance. One thing I can say is that Yamaha improved their YPAO room calibration which if all else is equal or better - you should hear an improvement. -Jon
@@ripewave Thanks John
I have the RX V6A and I love it...I want to upgrade to a 9 channel AVR...but I refuse to pay a thousand dollars more then a Pioneer... Onkyo or Denon...why can't Yamaha come out with an affordable 9 channel AVR like the competition...
It do seem that Yamaha is reluctant to add more channels to a price point. How does the features of the RX-V6A compare to those presented in the video? -Jon
The RX V6A is basically the same as the A2A...It doesn't have the PEQ...it has a GEQ...it doesn't have the 5th foot...it has 100 watts per channel ...but the A6A it not worth a thousand more then the competition
Nice response.
They should -Jon
I’ve used a A8A for two years and I must say it has been glitchy with EARC at times I don’t get sound and distortion on occasion. The two ch performance isn’t even close (I have a McIntosh C2600 (Has Ht passthru) n two monoblock amps for my fronts for my two ch music listening and when I switch over it’s better by a night and day difference. But overall it’s great for home theater however it is to be noted if you are planing on using all internal amps it gives very little power to the surrounds. Regarding the balanced outputs according to Gene at audiohilics it’s fake balanced and he isn’t a fan of how low. The wattage goes I believe maybe 55 at All ch driven plus he found unusual distortion in tests in the center channel
I would say the one to buy right now is the Integra 8.4
You are half correct, the CC distortion was measurement related and not something that can be heard and the 55w limit was due to built in protection under bench testing ("nanny" according to Jean) and not in real world use.
And of course Mc with mono blocks will sound better than almost any AVR.
So if I understand correctly you had the a8a connected to a macintosh amplifier with ht bypass and the macintosh connected to monoblocks?
It has been a while since I watched the Audioholics video with the A8A. My recollection was that Gene gave a very favorable rating of the build quality and performance. With that I am not surprised that the McIntosh equipment in home theater bypass mode would outperform. It may outperform most AV Receivers under $5,000. External amps will certainly take that differential to another level. I am assuming you never use the internal amps for the speakers you have McIntosh amps driving. You are correct about balance outputs and fully balance outputs where the signal in maintained internally through the unit and not just the end stage. -Jon
Hello John, what do you recommend? Marantz cinema 30/40, sr8015 or Yamaha rx-a8a? I need 4K 120Hz (games), and good sound quality for music.
I would more to the latest generation receivers if you are running 4K 120hz games. So not the SR8015. The rest will sound good for music. The cinema 30 will be noticeably better than the Cinema 40. After that pick on speaker layout support required for your setup and features. -Jon
@@ripewave Ok, thanks, however the sr8015 has an HDMI 2.1 4K 120Hz port. The price of the Cinema 30 is double. Could you recommend another model even if it's not Marantz? Yamaha Rx-a8a for example?
I can, but would need to know other factors like your target speaker layout and preference for room calibration tools. Video has been the most difficult capability for brands to implement correctly. They got a lot better with the most recent generations of products but still room for improvement. You are looking for good gaming performance. Another approach would be to plug your game console directly into your TV then eARC the audio back to the Av Receiver. You loose On-Screen Display for the AVR, but ensure that the video performance is maximized. For HDMi 2.1 to work well, each device in the chain much have the same capabilities and settings. Making two devices cooperate is much easier than three. -Jon
ATTENTION ! ! ! !
For YAMAHA, the specified power consumption is at 1/8 of the maximum output power!
I've had an RX-A8A for over two years and have compared it in my own cinema: Denon X6700 and X6800 and Pioneer 805.
The only one that comes close to the A8A in terms of sound is the Pioneer.
BUT its software and usability is so much worse than the Yamaha that the A8A has stayed!
Very useful detail output= 1/8 the power consumption. I didn’t know. Thanks for sharing. -Jon
OK, this video is a more verbose spec list briefing and opinion on those features.
Trying to highlight the positive attributes and limitations in this series to aid with selection. -Jon
I really can't understand how they got here (design wise) from the mighty RX-A80 series to those current freaks ?
Worst AVR design ever... 🙄
It seems they didn’t put much effort into the front panel design. Always disappointing when prior model outshine latest releases in some way. -Jon
Is the best reason to buy a Yamaha Aventage AVR that you are trying to throw away your money, or you're a masochist, or both? I suppose some form or mental illness could also be the impetus to buy a Yamaha Aventage. I have a Yamaha Aventage receiver. And it's AVENTAGE, not "Adventage." You're an "audio guy?" A "professional?" Clearly, not. Are these Yamaha receivers the most horrible, horrible receivers created in the world ever? Many would enthusiastically say they are electronic garbage. Everybody has an opinion, but purporting to be a professional requires your opinion to actually not be total BS. Again, placing you in the "non-pro" category, and your opinion is actually more ignorable and more wrong than most people's. I have spoken to Yamaha's HQ about the issue of just how bad these receivers are. If you were in grade school, and designed one of these receivers, you might have been proud of your EE skills. An adult EE, or a team of engineers having designed these receivers, at a minimum, should feel shame, embarrassment, and quit their job. What would be more appropriate, given Yamaha is a Japanese company, would be for the engineer, or engineers, to practice the time-honored Japanese tradition of atoning for their shameful behavior with something similar to Seppuku. I have owned many receivers over the years. I heard good things about Yamaha. Those people saying anything positive about these Yamaha receivers clearly was suffering from some form of cerebral crisis. Stroke? Hard to say, but clearly major brain damage had occurred at some point prior to, or during the designing of these pieces of audio garbage. I'm ashamed to even admit to the world that I own one of these. It's obvious evidence of extreme stupidity on my part. "Sure, it makes all the sense in the world to have cheesy digital emulation that pretends to mimic the ambiance of various public venues taking absolute center stage in the AVR's functioning." Slapping a 1980's era $8 reverb chip from Radio Shack into your audio gear, AND making it such a central feature shows an extraordinary lack of judgment. I could think of dumber design choices, but only barely. This is just one example of the stupid that went into these receivers. There are many other examples. I won't waste my time explaining them here. My Aventage has already robbed me of dignity. I don't want it to rob me of precious time to. My advice: ask yourself if you hate yourself enough to BUY A YAMAHA AVENTAGE AVR. If one is given to you, throw it away immediately and report the person who gave it to you to the authorities. They clearly have a deep, dark, pathologically psychotic history that they are hiding. Only the truly insane could think the Aventage is anything other than complete garbage. But hey, I'm no "pro" audio guy, like Mr. Pipewave Audio is. I'm just an Aventage owner, which is a group of people notable for their complete lack of good judgment when buying audio gear.
It’s okay to disagree with my perspective. Perspective buyers should consider all knowledge when making a decision. Ultimately it is your opinion that matters to most. -Jon