Awesome video, really helped me find the problem with my mazda 5. One thing I would add is that it is easy (as you point out) to take the electrical part off the valve. If so you can the manually open and close the valve . Mine was stuck half way open. My car ran like it had a vacuum leak but I could not find the leak. Your video made me think to check the egr valve and sure enough it was stuck open. I freed the valve and it immediately ran much better. Going to replace it this weekend. Micro minivans for-evahhh!!! I love mine.
Thank you for your show video! I struggle to open the hidden blot for long time. I look up your video! I follow your each step! Final the blot open. Time coffee ! High five !
Thanks for spending the time and effort making this video. These days we have to be fixing practically everything these days as it cost so much to get things fixed. Whether it's your car and every aspect of your home such as plumbing, electrical, carpentry, and your mower. I can see why many people are becoming minimalist. As much as I'd like to fix my car, I just don't have the tools, driveway, nor the time to do it. I just had a mechanic look at my car since I too have the engine light on. He said I needed a new exhaust manifold. Prior to that he said I needed a new fan module-that was needed, but he's charging me $269 for it. Yet at the Mazda dealership it's $126. I will certainty call him out on it and when I get my money back, I will never go back to him ever again. The hardest part of finding a mechanic is finding a good one and that he's HONEST. I'm better off having a vintage car restored hence do away with computers in these new cars. And why diagnose a car by plugging in a diagnostic computer? Cars can be made with built in computers so as to do away with this sham of charging for diagnostics. You don't even need the computing power of a cell phone to diagnose a car. The ongoing advance in auto technology is suppose to make fixing a car more expedient hence less costly. Instead, it has become more complicated. It truly is an outrage that it has come to this and far too many people love their cars so much, they are willing to pay a high price to keep them. I'm this close to giving up my car.
Yes the egr does affect the drivability I got the same code you did from auto zone for egr. When it's stuck open the car stalls on you not everytime but it will keep stalling on you if you don't replace it soon. If it's stuck closed there will be a temperature increase in your engine bay and that's not good either because it can melt rubber hoses or other plastic components and you'll start having leaks and malfunctions of any kind I have a 2013 I just did front brake pads I need to do rear ones and the egr valve. Mines been stalling cuz egr stuck open but I'm going to replace it soon thanks to photomike keep up the great work God bless you in Christ.
I cleaned the throttle body on my 2006 Mazda 5 and now my AT light came on and also have 5 codes that came on. Basically lost 3rd and 4th gears. I love this little car but every time I put some money in her. She takes a bigger shit! Love how you tossed the plastics. I was doing the same thing. Lolol
Common issues associated with a failing TCM: - Check Engine light and AT lights are on - Vehicle stays in 3rd gear only (safe mode) - Hard "kick" on "drive" and "reverse" - Hard shifting on gears Trouble codes: - U0101, U0100 (Lost communication with TCM) - P0753 (Shift Solenoid 'A' Malfunction) - P0758 (Shift Solenoid 'B' Malfunction) - P0763 (Shift Solenoid 'C' Malfunction)
I have a 2012 had the same issues, it was a faulty tcm, it's 250 to get it repaired, local junk yards are a hard miss with these and Mazda wants nearly 700 dollars for a new one. I know someone that removed it and re applied the solder and it works fine. There is a thick silicone that covers the PCB and I don't have the tools to remove it so, I took mine out, tossed it in the oven at 400 degrees for 8 minutes, put it in the freezer for 20 minutes, and then I moved it from it's factory location to a spot higher on my firewall to prevent future over heating. So far I have had success. The heat from the oven, re-activates the solder and if you are lucky it will restore the contact points. I also took CRC cleaner from AutoZone and sprayed the connectors just to be clear of any grime. It's got rid of the check engine light and has been running fine. It took about 100 miles for the idle to smooth out. The TCM has to essentially re-map itself once it has been disconnected for more than 30 minutes.
Yes the code is gone but to make sure that you fixed the problem for real you have to drive on highway for 10min with cruse control on and if the check engine light doesn't come back on, it's fixed, if yes, you'll have to replace that valve with a new one.
Suggesting the wobble extension to remove that pesky 2nd bolt is more than enough to like this video. Great tip! Unfortunately, the Harbor Freight wobble extensions didn't quite work for me - the first one with 1/4" drive broke, and the second one did not give me enough leverage to tighten the bolt snuggly, so I wound up with a coolant leak (coolant passes through the EGR valve). I eventually purchased a 3/8" drive 10mm universal joint socket from a local Napa store and was even able to torque the bolt to specs.
Won’t let everybody know about how big with job this is before you tell them to take the top part off because it is a big job that would be the first thing to start off with
Well done video, but if it's that much trouble to get to and remove, just go ahead replace it, because if cleaning doesn't fix the issue then you're stuck having to do the entire job over. On a lot of cars the EGR is much easier to access and remove, so cleaning first to see if that fixes the issue makes much more sense.
I have a 2008 Mazda 6, and a 2005, and a 2014. But on my 2008, I was replacing the MAF sensor, Thermostat and housing AND the EGR recently, because it was throwing 4 different engine codes. here is what I learned about this EGR which is the same as my car, on the 2.3 I4 engine. That 2nd bolt is an absolute bear to remove. And when you go to put it back on you run a good chance of cross threading it, as I did, because its impossible to work it on carefully with your fingers. You have to use a socket. AND, COOLANT FLOWS THROUGH THAT EGR! The rubber hose that attaches to the bottom is an output or input, IDK which, doesn't matter, for coolant that cycles to or from the head to the throttle body. So here is the greater point; That crappy metal gasket does very little to seal against a coolant leak, especially if the hard to reach bolt is cross threaded and you cant tighten it correctly. The original looks like it had a thin layer of rtv on it but the new metal gasket that came with my replacement EGR has absolutely nothing coating it against leaks. Be smart and seal this puppy with coolant grade RTV (light blue tube) on both sides of that metal gasket. Put it back on, tighten it just a tiny bit (finger tight), let it sit 24 hours, and then finish the job. I know this, of course, because my car has been leaking coolant since I replaced the EGR a couple days ago, so now I have to pull it back off and fix this problem. I will also place some washers under that cross threaded bolt head so it still draws down tight like it should.
Great video .....I have no lights ....I've had occasional idling issues etc and lumpy running mostly at higher speeds . Did you have to drain all coolant ? Or just drain the coolant from hoses you took off ? My set up is a bit different my turbo us cooled via cooler so my egr is at the front as is my throttle body right at the centre of intake Cheers for any info thanks
Love the video firstly did you have the usual symptoms before the eml? Idling issues poor response flat spots etc ? I think I have this issue atm.i bought car 6 months ago had issues along the way . But last night had flat spots on accelerating and although I didn't get limp mode the eml came on
HELP !! I need to replace the interior cabin air filter/s and I cant FIND the Old One !!!!! NOTHING in the owner manual. Really along with the Mazda 5 she handed me the Book, it did not have a smudge of grease on it. It does now.
Is this the 2.3 engine? Mine made it to 450000kms on original engine and transmission before taken out on the way home by a tourist. I had it for 7 years I don’t know if it made a difference but I just change engine oil every 6000kms and transmission fluid change and filter every 2years and power steering fluid twice. It never had any mechanical issues. Was long distance driving though around a 150kms a day. Updated to a Subaru and my god people run run well you can before your wallet disowns you.
Nothing special about the extension that he used. It's a regular, standard 1/4in drive 6in. extension. He placed the socket onto the bolt 1st then the extension. Also a 10mm deep well socket would've been better. But hey whatever works just roll with it. And yea you will have to move all that stuff away their you'll NEVER get to that bolt😅
Why would you not simply drain some coolant from the radiator such that the coolant level in the engine would be lowered, and you wouldn't have that gush of coolant when you remove that upper hose. You could even re-use the coolant you drain out from the radiator into a pan.
if someone can drop a link to an EGR delete tutorial for a Mazda 5 that would be great. I just like want to make sure that my car doesn't have one... it being illegal and all...
![[ModS.lv] - Mazda 5 2.0d Со стертой маской ошибок + сажевый фильтр DPF и клапан EGR](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nxTQihra3tU/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been struggling to get that rear bolt off for over an hour. I saw your simple suggestion and tried it. Bolt was off in two minutes. Thanks!
Awesome video, really helped me find the problem with my mazda 5. One thing I would add is that it is easy (as you point out) to take the electrical part off the valve. If so you can the manually open and close the valve . Mine was stuck half way open. My car ran like it had a vacuum leak but I could not find the leak. Your video made me think to check the egr valve and sure enough it was stuck open. I freed the valve and it immediately ran much better. Going to replace it this weekend. Micro minivans for-evahhh!!! I love mine.
Thank you for your show video! I struggle to open the hidden blot for long time. I look up your video! I follow your each step! Final the blot open. Time coffee ! High five !
Thanks for spending the time and effort making this video. These days we have to be fixing practically everything these days as it cost so much to get things fixed. Whether it's your car and every aspect of your home such as plumbing, electrical, carpentry, and your mower. I can see why many people are becoming minimalist. As much as I'd like to fix my car, I just don't have the tools, driveway, nor the time to do it.
I just had a mechanic look at my car since I too have the engine light on. He said I needed a new exhaust manifold. Prior to that he said I needed a new fan module-that was needed, but he's charging me $269 for it. Yet at the Mazda dealership it's $126. I will certainty call him out on it and when I get my money back, I will never go back to him ever again. The hardest part of finding a mechanic is finding a good one and that he's HONEST. I'm better off having a vintage car restored hence do away with computers in these new cars. And why diagnose a car by plugging in a diagnostic computer? Cars can be made with built in computers so as to do away with this sham of charging for diagnostics. You don't even need the computing power of a cell phone to diagnose a car. The ongoing advance in auto technology is suppose to make fixing a car more expedient hence less costly. Instead, it has become more complicated. It truly is an outrage that it has come to this and far too many people love their cars so much, they are willing to pay a high price to keep them. I'm this close to giving up my car.
Wobble extension. You were super close with "wiggle." Thanks for taking the time to make this, it helped me prepare for doing mine. Cheers.
Yes the egr does affect the drivability I got the same code you did from auto zone for egr. When it's stuck open the car stalls on you not everytime but it will keep stalling on you if you don't replace it soon. If it's stuck closed there will be a temperature increase in your engine bay and that's not good either because it can melt rubber hoses or other plastic components and you'll start having leaks and malfunctions of any kind I have a 2013 I just did front brake pads I need to do rear ones and the egr valve. Mines been stalling cuz egr stuck open but I'm going to replace it soon thanks to photomike keep up the great work God bless you in Christ.
Canadian Tire as a set of extensions like that. They call them wobble extensions. So you're not too far off in your choice of names. Good video.
I cleaned the throttle body on my 2006 Mazda 5 and now my AT light came on and also have 5 codes that came on. Basically lost 3rd and 4th gears. I love this little car but every time I put some money in her. She takes a bigger shit! Love how you tossed the plastics. I was doing the same thing. Lolol
Common issues associated with a failing TCM:
- Check Engine light and AT lights are on
- Vehicle stays in 3rd gear only (safe mode)
- Hard "kick" on "drive" and "reverse"
- Hard shifting on gears
Trouble codes:
- U0101, U0100 (Lost communication with TCM)
- P0753 (Shift Solenoid 'A' Malfunction)
- P0758 (Shift Solenoid 'B' Malfunction)
- P0763 (Shift Solenoid 'C' Malfunction)
I have a 2012 had the same issues, it was a faulty tcm, it's 250 to get it repaired, local junk yards are a hard miss with these and Mazda wants nearly 700 dollars for a new one. I know someone that removed it and re applied the solder and it works fine. There is a thick silicone that covers the PCB and I don't have the tools to remove it so, I took mine out, tossed it in the oven at 400 degrees for 8 minutes, put it in the freezer for 20 minutes, and then I moved it from it's factory location to a spot higher on my firewall to prevent future over heating. So far I have had success. The heat from the oven, re-activates the solder and if you are lucky it will restore the contact points. I also took CRC cleaner from AutoZone and sprayed the connectors just to be clear of any grime. It's got rid of the check engine light and has been running fine. It took about 100 miles for the idle to smooth out. The TCM has to essentially re-map itself once it has been disconnected for more than 30 minutes.
Yes the code is gone but to make sure that you fixed the problem for real you have to drive on highway for 10min with cruse control on and if the check engine light doesn't come back on, it's fixed, if yes, you'll have to replace that valve with a new one.
Suggesting the wobble extension to remove that pesky 2nd bolt is more than enough to like this video. Great tip!
Unfortunately, the Harbor Freight wobble extensions didn't quite work for me - the first one with 1/4" drive broke, and the second one did not give me enough leverage to tighten the bolt snuggly, so I wound up with a coolant leak (coolant passes through the EGR valve). I eventually purchased a 3/8" drive 10mm universal joint socket from a local Napa store and was even able to torque the bolt to specs.
Super
Won’t let everybody know about how big with job this is before you tell them to take the top part off because it is a big job that would be the first thing to start off with
Thanks for the video Mike, very helpful 👍
Your welcome!
Thanks much I'll be cleaning mine soon.
Well done video, but if it's that much trouble to get to and remove, just go ahead replace it, because if cleaning doesn't fix the issue then you're stuck having to do the entire job over. On a lot of cars the EGR is much easier to access and remove, so cleaning first to see if that fixes the issue makes much more sense.
At 400 quid I'd chanve cleaning it first tbh not much labour involved bud
Bro thank you so much. Very well explained.
Hallo and thank you for lovely video..I make it. Y Mazda 5 .......from Germany
Minimooooooooooooooo excellent video aprendiendo contigo forever and ever
Great work
great way to explain , thank alot
nice video and realy thanks for making this. one question tho why break cleaner and not EGR cleaner ? they go for about the same price anyway
undo the 4 nut of the plastic heater hose makes it so much better to get of
It is a serious code lol just because it drives fine does not mean it's not going to wreck other things
How many miles did it have back then?
I have a 2008 Mazda 6, and a 2005, and a 2014. But on my 2008, I was replacing the MAF sensor, Thermostat and housing AND the EGR recently, because it was throwing 4 different engine codes. here is what I learned about this EGR which is the same as my car, on the 2.3 I4 engine. That 2nd bolt is an absolute bear to remove. And when you go to put it back on you run a good chance of cross threading it, as I did, because its impossible to work it on carefully with your fingers. You have to use a socket. AND, COOLANT FLOWS THROUGH THAT EGR! The rubber hose that attaches to the bottom is an output or input, IDK which, doesn't matter, for coolant that cycles to or from the head to the throttle body. So here is the greater point; That crappy metal gasket does very little to seal against a coolant leak, especially if the hard to reach bolt is cross threaded and you cant tighten it correctly. The original looks like it had a thin layer of rtv on it but the new metal gasket that came with my replacement EGR has absolutely nothing coating it against leaks. Be smart and seal this puppy with coolant grade RTV (light blue tube) on both sides of that metal gasket. Put it back on, tighten it just a tiny bit (finger tight), let it sit 24 hours, and then finish the job. I know this, of course, because my car has been leaking coolant since I replaced the EGR a couple days ago, so now I have to pull it back off and fix this problem. I will also place some washers under that cross threaded bolt head so it still draws down tight like it should.
Coolant going to drain and eventually into streams.
Would you Please do a video about replacing oil cooler lines on a P71 Crown 👑 Victoria
Great video .....I have no lights ....I've had occasional idling issues etc and lumpy running mostly at higher speeds . Did you have to drain all coolant ? Or just drain the coolant from hoses you took off ? My set up is a bit different my turbo us cooled via cooler so my egr is at the front as is my throttle body right at the centre of intake
Cheers for any info thanks
Love the video firstly did you have the usual symptoms before the eml? Idling issues poor response flat spots etc ? I think I have this issue atm.i bought car 6 months ago had issues along the way . But last night had flat spots on accelerating and although I didn't get limp mode the eml came on
HELP !! I need to replace the interior cabin air filter/s and I cant FIND the Old One !!!!! NOTHING in the owner manual. Really along with the Mazda 5 she handed me the Book, it did not have a smudge of grease on it. It does now.
but did the light stay off after a few cycles?
Is this the 2.3 engine? Mine made it to 450000kms on original engine and transmission before taken out on the way home by a tourist. I had it for 7 years I don’t know if it made a difference but I just change engine oil every 6000kms and transmission fluid change and filter every 2years and power steering fluid twice. It never had any mechanical issues. Was long distance driving though around a 150kms a day. Updated to a Subaru and my god people run run well you can before your wallet disowns you.
Excellent
Nothing special about the extension that he used. It's a regular, standard 1/4in drive 6in. extension. He placed the socket onto the bolt 1st then the extension. Also a 10mm deep well socket would've been better. But hey whatever works just roll with it. And yea you will have to move all that stuff away their you'll NEVER get to that bolt😅
Why would you not simply drain some coolant from the radiator such that the coolant level in the engine would be lowered, and you wouldn't have that gush of coolant when you remove that upper hose. You could even re-use the coolant you drain out from the radiator into a pan.
Sir...can you help me..? Where is the place engine number for Mazda 5 2007/2008?
Hello, this code appeared in the car. What is the malfunction and what parts should be changed? Mazda 5 2008 model.....P0303
P0661
Thanks!
how long of an extension did you use ?
if someone can drop a link to an EGR delete tutorial for a Mazda 5 that would be great. I just like want to make sure that my car doesn't have one... it being illegal and all...
hi buddy, how do you disconnect the coolant from the throbody and the big hoses?
You mean the hoses ? Often just rotate and repeat it'll go eventually use some spray silicone if needed that stuff is great
Oo man your writing is truly terrible. But you are also a funny guy. Great video
hello my car is mazda 5 and i have a problem can you help me
Please what’s the name of that app?
torque lite
The man
Is this a diesel or petrol engine?
petrol
First of all you have to learn how properly start the car engine.
Dealer will dry you out$$$
Thanks!
Thank you!