Save 50% on your system, plus a free indoor security camera and your first month is free when you sign up for Core Monitoring. Visit SimpliSafe.com/april to customize yours! Try SimpliSafe risk-free. If you don’t love it, return it for a full refund within 60 days.”
I was looking at dry pour videos a couple of months ago for a small project and I came across a video from a guy named Tyler Ley. He's a professor at Oklahoma State. He did some work with dry pour that shows it is not nearly as good as conventional wet pouring. His conclusion is yes, it's okay for small, nonstructural projects but that there are significant drawbacks to dry pour. I would encourage anyone thinking about this application to look him up.
Great video. I really appreciate the tips about the edging and joints (pressing down firmly instead of dragging). I've done a couple dry pours and they've held up well so far
You also dont need to press you edger into it, it will work the same way as a float if you run it back and forth and form edges just like when wet. Another trick is not to pull your forms up when removing. They will have a tendency to chip your edges. Use a hammer to smack them left or right so they break from the crust that is formed and then try pulling them away from the slab instead of up. Your slab is not too big for dry. The issue is screeding, which soon becomes as labor intensive as mixing for wet pour, because to get a good finish with dry as you found out you need to screed in small slow motions.
The real question is how was the cement burns that night lol. Legs burning, between your toes and bottom of your feet. Will be curious to see how well your slab holds up. I've mixed concrete in wheel barrows, excavator and skid steer buckets. My dad used to have a 4 yard mixer truck. Ive mixed enough concrete to know its a lot of work.
Good morning, April! This was pretty cool! It takes out that back breaking step of mixing it in a wheelbarrow or concrete tub. But, I'm hard headed old school and would most likely still do it the hard way😄. I really like your finished product with the posts and rails. They look AMAZING! Thanks for sharing ANOTHER great video! Have a wonderful week. God bless.
I did a dry pour myself April 18months ago. You did a great job by making sure you waited long enough to pull the forms. Kwik Create works really well with this method. Some other brands not so much. Also adding more water than than neccessary also keeps it from being as brittle. Most people don't add enough and then don't wait long enough to put it into service.
@AprilWilkerson Thx for the response. Been subbed to your channel probably 6yrs or so. I just don't comment much, but I am waiting on that RV park video series because I live in west Texas and we have 3 acres ourselves. I have room for about 28 spots so your videos will be very helpful since I'm a DIYer myself.
Dry pour is far weaker. That is a fact. Concrete relies on the correct hydration of the cement. It is physically impossible to get the bottom hydrated enough without over hydrating the top.
April I’m kinda shocked that you fell for the dry pour crap. It is a simple fact that concrete relies on the proper hydration of the cement. Which is impossible with dry pour. You can achieve the same or greater strength with probably 1/2 the thickness of properly installed concrete.( I’m guessing on exact thickness) I have been in the masonry repair business for over 45 years( mostly on historical buildings) it is very obvious when you see “ dry pockets” in a pour. They are very weak. Dry pour is a stupid idea. Simple fact: you can’t properly hydrate lower part if pour without over hydrating upper part. Both make for very weak concrete
Very interesting. I do have a few smaller projects that I'd like to try this on. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge on this. I'm looking forward to your 1 and 2 year reviews and results.
Looks promising and job well done, but two questions arise 1. How much water do you need to poor on to it, when do you know it is enough ? 2. How does the price relate to wet concrete for the same area. Thanks for sharing
After following Cajun County Living on YT, I decide to do a few dry pours. Followed their process to a T and it has been fantastic. All the slabs have held up very well, with 3 of them used under a 10k pound RV! (proper depth and rebar of course). I totally agree with your suggestion about pressing versus dragging the trowel. Thanks for posting and the slab looks great!
Thanks for sharing with us April, looking forward to a 6 month and a 1 year review on the dry pour. Totally agree with the long britches and top covering too. Stay safe and keep up the great videos, the building looks great too. Fred.
Dry Pour works for some situations. I've used it in deep holes with metal pipes (solar panel masts) and it has been fine. If the hole is only a little larger than the pipe, (say if the pipe is 8" and the hole is 10 or 12", then pouring wet concrete is not so easy. It can easily jamb up in some spot. Dry on the other hand will all get down to the bottom, (especially after you add water). But there is no doubt that structurally it is weaker. Even in a sidewalk, I'd not consider it. Too easy to do wet concrete and much less likely to crack if something heavier goes over it.
Thanks April. Been enjoying your channel for some time. Turns out Pierced Oak is just a few miles from me. I tried updating Google maps with the address you put un Instagram. The category is a bit wonky as they don't have one for RV Park per se. Good luck with the venture. I agree with most comments and your takeaway that there are very good but very specific applications for dry pour. Back 59 years ago almost had a geart attack getting behind a wet pour that was only to put a smooth work surface on an exiting dirt floor of an old shop. Not structural. Pathways, simple storage shed floors (like under existing mobile homes) and drainage contol also seem ideal. All the best👍👍💪✌️😎
I worked as a form carpenter and form watcher during the early 80’s on locks and dams. Concrete needs to be poured as dry as possible. And at the correct temperature. It dries to the hardest under water and continues to harden for 100 years. I have never poured it dry except for mailbox posts. This method makes a lot of sense for pouring bags.
Interesting process. I have not seen anything quite like this being done. I have seen where people have set posts in concrete using a dry pour in to the hole and add water but have not seen a slab being done like this.
I was very intrigued when I first saw videos of dry pour come out about a year ago. After seeing some of the after investigations by engineer types I would probably not try it except for light use. No construction overhead. Just don't think it is worth it. But I will keep searching for ways to do this and make it strong.
I am happy you are experimenting with this idea. You are brave to put this on display in public seeing the sentiment of the comments, but I think experimentation is important. The patio looks excellent and can't wait to see the updates. I wonder if rain over time will make it even stronger. I have an architect and urban design background and we would use the slump test to determine the success of the concrete. These are tests for applications with heavier use. I don't believe that the method you are using is abberant since there will only be foot traffic. Thanks for sharing... Seriously!
Watched and loved your videos! Because I started out working for my father’s small construction company, I really appreciated your versatility. However, after several decades of extensive concrete construction including some research and many professional certifications, I would recommend against dry pour concreting. It will fail.
Excellent video and the results look well worth the effort. I think there is a reluctance to accept this as a light-duty method simply because it is non-standard. I think, too, that many that fail are because they don't follow a proper methodology then blame it on the dry pour. I'm betting that you'll provide a positive outcome even two years from now. Thanks!
@@richardbenson4750 Given the ease of application and the relatively inexpensive cost to resource, it seems reasonable to use "heavy duty materials" that will exceed requirements. You're definitely not wasting time as this solution can be performed on a DIY schedule, and it is likely a comparable cost to other solutions. April did a great job pointing this out and it is commendable that she left results open with a promise to revisit over the course of the next two years. Relax, and give it a chance.
I dunno if I'd use it for a big building foundation... but a light duty support pad, plain patio or maybe a storage shed slab.... those don't see high load at all.... as long as you give it time to soak up the water and set.
I did a dry pour on a 4 x 8 ft slab to support 4 - 55 gallon rain barrels. It was about 5" thick. I poured the dry mix into the forms about 1/2 full. Raked it mostly level, then misted it about 6 times in one hour. Then poured the remainder of the dry mix until the forms were full. Then screeded it level with the forms. Then misted the top layer several times during the next few hours. Then again about three hours later I hosed it down real well. The top edges are weak, and chipped off. I'll never do another dry pour slab!
concrete requires a specific amount of water to cure to its maximum hardness. too little water and it doesnt cure, too much water and there is more water than can react with the concrete, leaving voids where water used to be, making the concrete weak. When you make a loaf of bread, do you dump the flour in a bowl and then mist it with water? no that is just a stupid idea. you mix the flour and water together until its an even mixture, ensuring that it cooks evenly. concrete is no different
@@theJonnymac april cannot handle the truth and is deleting all my comments that say mixing the concrete properly is better than not mixing it. This is the community you are trying to protect lmfao, i think each and every one of you is a lunatic
I found this for calculating how much concrete you need.. Mud mixer has a calculator on their website I'm debating dry pour for a road runway down our hill to the lake 60" on center instead of spinning tires taking my Pontoon up in the spring
i ran across a Wood Shed pint glass in my local thrift store the other week in Ft. Smith, AR.. i mean i'm not THAT far from you but still fun to run in to in the wild
I’ve tried two different projects with the dry pour method. One turned out great but the other was definitely so subpar that I finished it with wet pour. Never again.
@AprilWilkerson I didn't even know dry was a thing. Now I wonder if you laid sections of hard pvc hose (can't remove after) with small holes drilled equally on top and sides, on the bottom...turn water on low so it trickles. Then do the dry pour technique...I wonder what the results would be? Thanks for experimenting. Looking forward to seeing the park videos.
@ 😂😂😂😂😂😂 of course you did😂😂😂😂😂😂 There is one way that is possible. The wet mix was incorrectly mixed. What was the aggregate? What was the concrete to sand ratio? Were there other additives? What was the water ratio? What was the slump rate? Actually there are 2 ways. If you use a low quality mix. One that is destined to fail in anything other than fence posts. What was the compressive strength of each sample?What was the tensile strength of each sample? What was the size of each sample? How many samples were tested? These are very common details of testing we have to pass routinely. We routinely have to test core samples. I can guarantee dry pour WILL NOT PASS THESE TESTS.
To me that looks like more work than just doing it the right way. Also when you mix concrete in a mixer there's a thing about timing that makes the concrete stronger. It's actually a chemical reaction as you're mixing and then you put it out before the flashpoint starts to begin. What happens then is it generates its own heat and then it'll dry no matter how much water you put on it because it's a chemical reaction. So the key there is timing
You don't want concrete to "dry", you want it to cure. It is a chemical process that requires water, when you let concrete "dry" you lose the water that the chemical process requires. This is why it is best to keep concrete from drying out during the first week of curing.
I did a dry pour slab that holds 4 cords of firewood. It is holding up just fine under the weight. It is a great method for small projects. April, you did a great job.
The obvious answer from a chemistry and physics perspective is that "wet pour" is immensely stronger and is also easier to do. The large difference in performance between the two is because with "wet pour" the ingredients are mixed throughout and will uniformly harden, but with "dry pour" only to top is kind of mixed.
Diving into cement dust like that was kind of wild, all the routine cares have gone! concrete is not an easy job, unless someone is fit and loves hard work they should give it up.
Regardless of a wet or dry option, the most important thing is the PPE. Respirators, Clothing are very important, however simple things like rubbing yourself down with a thick lotion prior to getting dressed will help negate the effects of the concrete. I had a neighbor who worked with concrete for 30 years. At 50, he looked like a 90 year old lizard. He died of cancer at 63 what was determined to be his body absorbing the chemical agents from concrete. Working with concrete is necessary and can be rewarding, however a lot of people treat it like they’re working with dirt. The stuff is loaded with chemicals, so treat it as such.
April I have a small cabin in NW Missouri, you are welcome anytime to come up and help me with several project....when you don't have anything else to do. LOL love your videos!
The one mistake I saw, there is no expansion joint between the existing concrete and the dry pour. 3 or 4 inexperienced people could have poured that slab in ½ the it took you to dry pour. You ended up doing everything that is required for a wet pour. yes, you have to move a little faster. that sab would have been perfect for a first time wet pour. Just try it.
Probably fine without the expansion joint since it is uncontained on the other three sides and not a big slab. I agree though the wet pour is better in many ways.
I have 2 dry pour pads that are 2 years old. I did them dirty just to annoy dry pour haters. dumped it straight on top of grass, no gravel base and added no rebar. They are right next to my professionally poured patio. one has my hose reel setup on it and gets water all the time and the other gets walked on daily by my dogs and family. there are no cracks or heaving or shifting after 2 years of below zero winters and rain and snow. I followed cajun's instructions and made sure you soak them enough that water made it thru the whole 4in slab and so far they are doing better than my wet poured slab, they just dont look as nice as a wet pour broom finish.
I’ve watch several videos where dry pour is compared to traditional wet pour. Wet pour is stronger and more durable. If you’re going to the effort to pour concrete, why not do traditional wet pour? It will be less effort in the long run when you have to replace it 4 or 5 years down the road.
@@mitchmiller1429because it's not less effort. Maybe you're making the assumption that everyone doing a dry pour has a mixer sitting around or the ability to rent one with a way to transport it. Remove that assumption and you're left with that person mixing by hand. I do a lot of diy, mixed my deck footers in my wheelbarrow but my first dry pour was 18 bags and I'm not interested in mixing 18 bags by hand. Doing that dry pour for a walkway was way easier, less rush and will hold up just as long as a wet pour for my purposes.
@@Toni_Snark yes, I have poured a dry pour entrance into my greenhouse. It is 2 years old and I hope it lasts, but it definitely looks more grainy and porous than my traditional sidewalks.
I enjoyed this one, April. I have watched a few makers on UA-cam, but you made me understand the process much better. BTW: I admire how well you 'talk to the camera'. For the many years that I've watched you, I've always thought that you were speaking to me and only me. Don't burst my bubble and tell me that you were talking to someone else in addition to me. Happy Sunday.
There are very good reasons why in the thousands of years of using concrete this method has only sprung up in the last 10 or so years in the south of the US. Think about that long and hard before employing it - especially for a handicap ramp.
No. Although I have used this method and will use it again. A ramp needs to be poured using the regular method. The top of the ramp is too thick and wont have proper compaction.
Nope regular concrete works. Although I recommend watering it for several days everytime it looks dry. And let it sit for 3 or 4 before pulling the forms. I have made several sidewalks like this. The people I did them for dont drive tanks on them. Rough is better than smooth for traction.
Another plus for dry versus wet. Is on a small pour like yours. A concrete truck will bring you the amount needed for a small pour, but they will charge you more for the smaller amount. At least they do where I live.
@@AprilWilkersonit is plain crap. You obviously do not understand the first thing about how concrete actually works. Concrete relies on the proper hydration of the cement. That is impossible with dry pour. I have been in the masonry restoration business for over 45 years. Dry pour is ignorance plain and simple. You can achieve the same or better results with less than half the thickness of properly mixed concrete. That is a fact.
Dry pour isn't a new method, it's just new to social media. Wet poured concrete all over the world has cracks in it. You nailed it when you said this is for light traffic applications. Anything bigger than a shed or a tiny home would probably need more strength. As a DIYer with a limited budget, I have been pouring all my concrete using this method. It works perfectly for my needs. I work alone so I need to be able to take my time and even spread the project out over 2 or 3 days. I'm thrilled with the results. People online need to learn to worry about themselves and their needs. If you don't like something, keep scrolling. Great job and thanks for this awesome video. It looks great.
@aprilwilkerson The thumbnail for this video stresses me. I grew up in construction, and during the summer I would wear shorts while pouring slabs. I eventually developed the beginnings of concrete poisoning from the exposure to my legs. While dry pour doesn't have the same exposure, the moisture on your body from sweat can start the chemical reactions that will affect the skin. Cover up when handling concrete.
April, I just thought I’d let you know that UA-cam unsubscribed me from your site. I started watching you years ago when you were still in your small garage. I hope they haven’t done this with many more people.
That’s a nice looking entry & walkway! It seems like concrete is always a lot of work, no matter how you do it… lol…. Thanks April, great job, please keep on building!
0:16 when you're making pancakes, you don't put flour on the pan and spray water on top of it and expect it to come out like a proper pancake, you gotta make a batter and let it sit for a few minutes to let the flour hydrate before pouring it on the pan..... ok, let me watch the rest of the video to see how it works with concrete
i posted this exact thing about 1 week ago except i used bread dough as my example. She deleted my comment, she wants to just remove anyone who doesnt agree with her
@@bmxscape honestly, after watching the full video, i'm still a bit skeptical, but April says it works for her purposes; and it's not like it's a load-bearing wall or a house foundation, so 🤷♂
Very clever wearing gloves to protect hands, but wearing shorts and then sitting in it , and yes I have been in building trade for 49 years so know what cement can do
So instead of having 4,000 psi concrete hers will only be 1,000 psi. That should work for the average person walking out of the shower with a wet towel and two sets of clothes.
I was so happy to see you do this! I’ve done several videos on this subject and the results are so surprising. And the added bonus… making the haters sooo angry 🤣
Dry pour: great for sidewalks, mailbox, short fences with low wind loads. Saves a lot of mixing work. Wet pour: heavy duty slabs, point loads, tall fences with high wind loads.
It doesn’t make sense. I’m not a concrete guy, but that 4’ X whatever length slab is super manageable in a wet pour. Also, if this process is really only good for small projects, what’s the point? I dunno, not a fan. Good luck though!
@@mehill00 the point is that a small pour like this IS more than manageable. A novice can do this in a wet pour. Dry pour isn’t viable. If it was, concrete contractors would do it. April made content, nothing wrong with that, but it doesn’t make sense. End of discussion. Have a good evening!
@@markantinore6418 Concrete workers would never do dry. Professionals work fast and don’t want to come back and water a few times and they want to get the strongest most consistent results. It only makes sense in some limited cases for DIYers.
People think the water adds volume but of course it doesn't, it's just a catalyst. You need exactly as much dry concrete as it takes to fill the form. Since you built a roof over it I would keep hitting it with water from time to time, rain continues the process.
Curious about the amount of bags needed. If doing a dry pour did you find you needed more bags than doing a wet pour? I’m assuming when mixing the water add to the volume of concrete so lees actual concrete would be needed to fill the form
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Very disappointing to see you buying into the nonsense that is dry pour. It is weak and will slough off at the edges. You could have divided your porch into maybe four sections and done them separately to eliminate the dreaded urgency of a larger pour.
That took way longer and required far more finesse and fiddling than pouring and tamping wet mixed concrete would have leaving you with a very inferior slab, if it saved time then I could see the motivation. You did make me laugh with your (not) expansion joints though!!!! I use drymix for fence posts whenever I can.
Who needs scientists, the time tested advantages of using the scientific method, experts with years of study and real-world experience, and cold hard data when you can just, _"do your own research,"_ and verify your presuppositions by doing a simple google search?
Right, right...and we'll just pretend that a walkway for foot traffic needs the same strength as something requiring wet concrete. I mean, it's not like DIY doesn't require the exact same specifications that a licensed engineer would have to meet. Did you laugh condescendingly and look down haughtily while typing, so that everyone would know how much smarter you are?
@@aquatus1 concrete usually breaks from the weather, not from foot traffic lol. when you see a cracked sidewalk it's not because a fat man walked over it... and when you see a sidewalk that feels like unreacted concrete, now you will know why
Wetter is better. But wet concrete is so much better that even getting the fractional goodness out of a dry pour is plenty good enough for what she's using it for. Had she been building a runway for 747s, then call out the scientists and engineers. For a covered landing, she should be good to go.
Save 50% on your system, plus a free indoor security camera and your first month is free when you sign up for Core Monitoring. Visit SimpliSafe.com/april to customize yours! Try SimpliSafe risk-free. If you don’t love it, return it for a full refund within 60 days.”
I was looking at dry pour videos a couple of months ago for a small project and I came across a video from a guy named Tyler Ley. He's a professor at Oklahoma State. He did some work with dry pour that shows it is not nearly as good as conventional wet pouring. His conclusion is yes, it's okay for small, nonstructural projects but that there are significant drawbacks to dry pour. I would encourage anyone thinking about this application to look him up.
That’s brave! I’d never go dry pour-way too likely to crack and weaken. Wet pours hold up so much better overtime
Great video. I really appreciate the tips about the edging and joints (pressing down firmly instead of dragging). I've done a couple dry pours and they've held up well so far
Awesome! I'm glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Hello April, I accidentally came across your UA-cam channel. I am in awe of your talent and the way you create your projects. I love it!!💜
Thank you so much! I'm so glad you found my channel. I hope you enjoy it. Thanks for watching.
You also dont need to press you edger into it, it will work the same way as a float if you run it back and forth and form edges just like when wet. Another trick is not to pull your forms up when removing. They will have a tendency to chip your edges. Use a hammer to smack them left or right so they break from the crust that is formed and then try pulling them away from the slab instead of up. Your slab is not too big for dry. The issue is screeding, which soon becomes as labor intensive as mixing for wet pour, because to get a good finish with dry as you found out you need to screed in small slow motions.
She said the edger did not work the same way when dry. She tried both ways.
@@Toni_Snarknot sure what she was doing but it works the same way for me wet or dry
The real question is how was the cement burns that night lol. Legs burning, between your toes and bottom of your feet. Will be curious to see how well your slab holds up. I've mixed concrete in wheel barrows, excavator and skid steer buckets. My dad used to have a 4 yard mixer truck. Ive mixed enough concrete to know its a lot of work.
Good morning, April! This was pretty cool! It takes out that back breaking step of mixing it in a wheelbarrow or concrete tub. But, I'm hard headed old school and would most likely still do it the hard way😄. I really like your finished product with the posts and rails. They look AMAZING! Thanks for sharing ANOTHER great video! Have a wonderful week. God bless.
Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it. Have a great week too!
I did a dry pour myself April 18months ago. You did a great job by making sure you waited long enough to pull the forms. Kwik Create works really well with this method. Some other brands not so much. Also adding more water than than neccessary also keeps it from being as brittle. Most people don't add enough and then don't wait long enough to put it into service.
Thanks for sharing your experience, glad to hear yours is holding up well! Thanks for watching.
@AprilWilkerson Thx for the response. Been subbed to your channel probably 6yrs or so. I just don't comment much, but I am waiting on that RV park video series because I live in west Texas and we have 3 acres ourselves. I have room for about 28 spots so your videos will be very helpful since I'm a DIYer myself.
Dry pour appears to be a great way to go. I'm a little too old for a project like this, but I did enjoy the video!
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Yes, for what I want it for, it'll be fine. Thanks for watching.
Dry pour is far weaker. That is a fact. Concrete relies on the correct hydration of the cement. It is physically impossible to get the bottom hydrated enough without over hydrating the top.
April I’m kinda shocked that you fell for the dry pour crap. It is a simple fact that concrete relies on the proper hydration of the cement. Which is impossible with dry pour. You can achieve the same or greater strength with probably 1/2 the thickness of properly installed concrete.( I’m guessing on exact thickness) I have been in the masonry repair business for over 45 years( mostly on historical buildings) it is very obvious when you see “ dry pockets” in a pour. They are very weak. Dry pour is a stupid idea. Simple fact: you can’t properly hydrate lower part if pour without over hydrating upper part. Both make for very weak concrete
Very interesting. I do have a few smaller projects that I'd like to try this on. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge on this. I'm looking forward to your 1 and 2 year reviews and results.
Awesome! Thanks for watching.
Looks promising and job well done, but two questions arise
1. How much water do you need to poor on to it, when do you know it is enough ?
2. How does the price relate to wet concrete for the same area.
Thanks for sharing
After following Cajun County Living on YT, I decide to do a few dry pours. Followed their process to a T and it has been fantastic. All the slabs have held up very well, with 3 of them used under a 10k pound RV! (proper depth and rebar of course). I totally agree with your suggestion about pressing versus dragging the trowel. Thanks for posting and the slab looks great!
Thanks! And thank you for Sharing your experience and for watching.
Thanks for sharing with us April, looking forward to a 6 month and a 1 year review on the dry pour. Totally agree with the long britches and top covering too. Stay safe and keep up the great videos, the building looks great too. Fred.
Thanks for watching Fred! Glad you enjoyed the video.
It also helps to live somewhere that rarely freezes
Dry Pour works for some situations. I've used it in deep holes with metal pipes (solar panel masts) and it has been fine. If the hole is only a little larger than the pipe, (say if the pipe is 8" and the hole is 10 or 12", then pouring wet concrete is not so easy. It can easily jamb up in some spot. Dry on the other hand will all get down to the bottom, (especially after you add water). But there is no doubt that structurally it is weaker. Even in a sidewalk, I'd not consider it. Too easy to do wet concrete and much less likely to crack if something heavier goes over it.
Thanks April. Been enjoying your channel for some time. Turns out Pierced Oak is just a few miles from me. I tried updating Google maps with the address you put un Instagram. The category is a bit wonky as they don't have one for RV Park per se. Good luck with the venture. I agree with most comments and your takeaway that there are very good but very specific applications for dry pour. Back 59 years ago almost had a geart attack getting behind a wet pour that was only to put a smooth work surface on an exiting dirt floor of an old shop. Not structural. Pathways, simple storage shed floors (like under existing mobile homes) and drainage contol also seem ideal. All the best👍👍💪✌️😎
Yes, Google Maps hasn't updated yet but should soon I'd think. Thanks for watching.
I like how you are always trying something new and learn from the experience April! Plus, it’s just fun trying new things. 😃👍👏
Thanks! This was such a fun project and perfect for what I need. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Answer to title no dry pour is much worse than wet
I worked as a form carpenter and form watcher during the early 80’s on locks and dams. Concrete needs to be poured as dry as possible. And at the correct temperature. It dries to the hardest under water and continues to harden for 100 years. I have never poured it dry except for mailbox posts. This method makes a lot of sense for pouring bags.
Yes, I think it's perfect for what I needed. Thanks for Sharing and for watching.
Interesting process. I have not seen anything quite like this being done. I have seen where people have set posts in concrete using a dry pour in to the hole and add water but have not seen a slab being done like this.
Thanks! I'm glad you found it interesting. I think it will be fine for what I need. Thanks for watching.
I was very intrigued when I first saw videos of dry pour come out about a year ago. After seeing some of the after investigations by engineer types I would probably not try it except for light use. No construction overhead. Just don't think it is worth it. But I will keep searching for ways to do this and make it strong.
Love it!!! Been following you for years. Can't wait to get a fifth wheel and check out your RV Park in the not so distant future. Blessings!!!
Thank you so much! I'm glad you're enjoying the channel and look forward to seeing you at the park! Thanks for watching.
I am happy you are experimenting with this idea. You are brave to put this on display in public seeing the sentiment of the comments, but I think experimentation is important. The patio looks excellent and can't wait to see the updates. I wonder if rain over time will make it even stronger. I have an architect and urban design background and we would use the slump test to determine the success of the concrete. These are tests for applications with heavier use. I don't believe that the method you are using is abberant since there will only be foot traffic. Thanks for sharing... Seriously!
Thank you! Yes, with only foot traffic, I think this will be fine. Thanks for watching.
Watched and loved your videos! Because I started out working for my father’s small construction company, I really appreciated your versatility. However, after several decades of extensive concrete construction including some research and many professional certifications, I would recommend against dry pour concreting. It will fail.
Thanks! I think it will be fine for what I want it for. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video and the results look well worth the effort. I think there is a reluctance to accept this as a light-duty method simply because it is non-standard. I think, too, that many that fail are because they don't follow a proper methodology then blame it on the dry pour. I'm betting that you'll provide a positive outcome even two years from now. Thanks!
I agree. I think this method will work well for what I need. Thanks for watching.
Why use heavy duty materials if you just want a light duty solution? It's wasting both time and money.
@@richardbenson4750 Given the ease of application and the relatively inexpensive cost to resource, it seems reasonable to use "heavy duty materials" that will exceed requirements. You're definitely not wasting time as this solution can be performed on a DIY schedule, and it is likely a comparable cost to other solutions. April did a great job pointing this out and it is commendable that she left results open with a promise to revisit over the course of the next two years. Relax, and give it a chance.
I dunno if I'd use it for a big building foundation... but a light duty support pad, plain patio or maybe a storage shed slab.... those don't see high load at all.... as long as you give it time to soak up the water and set.
Yes, mine will only have foot traffic going into building. Thanks for watching.
It would be interesting to try compressing the dry material before and after screeding. I syaiect it would be stronger
Cool to watch and consider! Thanks April!
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
I did a dry pour on a 4 x 8 ft slab to support 4 - 55 gallon rain barrels. It was about 5" thick. I poured the dry mix into the forms about 1/2 full. Raked it mostly level, then misted it about 6 times in one hour. Then poured the remainder of the dry mix until the forms were full. Then screeded it level with the forms. Then misted the top layer several times during the next few hours. Then again about three hours later I hosed it down real well.
The top edges are weak, and chipped off. I'll never do another dry pour slab!
concrete requires a specific amount of water to cure to its maximum hardness. too little water and it doesnt cure, too much water and there is more water than can react with the concrete, leaving voids where water used to be, making the concrete weak. When you make a loaf of bread, do you dump the flour in a bowl and then mist it with water? no that is just a stupid idea. you mix the flour and water together until its an even mixture, ensuring that it cooks evenly. concrete is no different
because you didn't do it right. you are supposed to mist over a period of days not hose it good.
@@theJonnymac april cannot handle the truth and is deleting all my comments that say mixing the concrete properly is better than not mixing it. This is the community you are trying to protect lmfao, i think each and every one of you is a lunatic
I found this for calculating how much concrete you need..
Mud mixer has a calculator on their website
I'm debating dry pour for a road runway down our hill to the lake 60" on center instead of spinning tires taking my Pontoon up in the spring
i ran across a Wood Shed pint glass in my local thrift store the other week in Ft. Smith, AR.. i mean i'm not THAT far from you but still fun to run in to in the wild
Awesome! Thanks for Sharing that and for watching.
Sandy finish- perfect for tile
I’ve tried two different projects with the dry pour method. One turned out great but the other was definitely so subpar that I finished it with wet pour. Never again.
@AprilWilkerson I didn't even know dry was a thing. Now I wonder if you laid sections of hard pvc hose (can't remove after) with small holes drilled equally on top and sides, on the bottom...turn water on low so it trickles. Then do the dry pour technique...I wonder what the results would be? Thanks for experimenting.
Looking forward to seeing the park videos.
I used dry pour for posts its less mess, quicker and within 5 days is solid as concrete
Nope. Dry pour will never be as solid as properly mixed concrete. That’s a fact
@@genecarden780 had the local university test it and the results between the different versions were comparable
@ 😂😂😂😂😂😂 of course you did😂😂😂😂😂😂 There is one way that is possible. The wet mix was incorrectly mixed. What was the aggregate? What was the concrete to sand ratio? Were there other additives? What was the water ratio? What was the slump rate?
Actually there are 2 ways. If you use a low quality mix. One that is destined to fail in anything other than fence posts.
What was the compressive strength of each sample?What was the tensile strength of each sample? What was the size of each sample? How many samples were tested? These are very common details of testing we have to pass routinely. We routinely have to test core samples. I can guarantee dry pour WILL NOT PASS THESE TESTS.
Was this cheaper than calling a truck?
To me that looks like more work than just doing it the right way. Also when you mix concrete in a mixer there's a thing about timing that makes the concrete stronger. It's actually a chemical reaction as you're mixing and then you put it out before the flashpoint starts to begin. What happens then is it generates its own heat and then it'll dry no matter how much water you put on it because it's a chemical reaction. So the key there is timing
You don't want concrete to "dry", you want it to cure. It is a chemical process that requires water, when you let concrete "dry" you lose the water that the chemical process requires. This is why it is best to keep concrete from drying out during the first week of curing.
There is no one "right" way.
Mike Haduck has a comparison about wet vs dry. Choose wisely.
For my needs of only foot traffic, it will be fine. If heavier traffic, definitely wet pour. Thanks for watching.
I did a dry pour slab that holds 4 cords of firewood. It is holding up just fine under the weight. It is a great method for small projects. April, you did a great job.
Awesome! Yes, for my needs this will be fine. Thanks for watching.
The obvious answer from a chemistry and physics perspective is that "wet pour" is immensely stronger and is also easier to do. The large difference in performance between the two is because with "wet pour" the ingredients are mixed throughout and will uniformly harden, but with "dry pour" only to top is kind of mixed.
Did you use the same amount of bags if you had done a traditional slab?
Do you really want to connect the new slab with the old? Cracking potential?
I did a dry pour last year. I did the same length and width as yours. Its still looks nice. Yours will be fine.
Thanks! Yes, for what I need, this will be fine. Glad to hear that yours is still going strong. Thanks for watching.
Diving into cement dust like that was kind of wild, all the routine cares have gone! concrete is not an easy job, unless someone is fit and loves hard work they should give it up.
Been thinking about it. just saying
It was a fun project and will work fine for what I want it for. Thanks for watching.
Regardless of a wet or dry option, the most important thing is the PPE. Respirators,
Clothing are very important, however simple things like rubbing yourself down with a thick lotion prior to getting dressed will help negate the effects of the concrete. I had a neighbor who worked with concrete for 30 years. At 50, he looked like a 90 year old lizard. He died of cancer at 63 what was determined to be his body absorbing the chemical agents from concrete. Working with concrete is necessary and can be rewarding, however a lot of people treat it like they’re working with dirt. The stuff is loaded with chemicals, so treat it as such.
April I have a small cabin in NW Missouri, you are welcome anytime to come up and help me with several project....when you don't have anything else to do. LOL love your videos!
The one mistake I saw, there is no expansion joint between the existing concrete and the dry pour. 3 or 4 inexperienced people could have poured that slab in ½ the it took you to dry pour. You ended up doing everything that is required for a wet pour. yes, you have to move a little faster. that sab would have been perfect for a first time wet pour.
Just try it.
Probably fine without the expansion joint since it is uncontained on the other three sides and not a big slab. I agree though the wet pour is better in many ways.
Not only is dry pour much much weaker, it's also much more work.
just like pouring the sidewalk 3 times. waste of time . done in hours not days
assuming we aren't using a truck for concrete how is it more work.
It's not more work, it's different work.
Did concrete work for many years, never dry, and I have to say this doesn't look any easier. Seems far more finicky. Maybe just set in my ways.
I don't think you're set in your ways... I think you gave a reasoned response based upon your own expertise.
@@StoneE4 How is that a reasoned response? He just said it doesn't look any easier.
Thank you ❤❤
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you ❤❤
I'm so glad you enjoyed it!
I have 2 dry pour pads that are 2 years old. I did them dirty just to annoy dry pour haters. dumped it straight on top of grass, no gravel base and added no rebar. They are right next to my professionally poured patio. one has my hose reel setup on it and gets water all the time and the other gets walked on daily by my dogs and family. there are no cracks or heaving or shifting after 2 years of below zero winters and rain and snow. I followed cajun's instructions and made sure you soak them enough that water made it thru the whole 4in slab and so far they are doing better than my wet poured slab, they just dont look as nice as a wet pour broom finish.
Awesome! Yes, for my needs, this slab will do fine. Thanks for Sharing your experience and for watching.
I’ve watch several videos where dry pour is compared to traditional wet pour. Wet pour is stronger and more durable. If you’re going to the effort to pour concrete, why not do traditional wet pour? It will be less effort in the long run when you have to replace it 4 or 5 years down the road.
@@mitchmiller1429because it's not less effort. Maybe you're making the assumption that everyone doing a dry pour has a mixer sitting around or the ability to rent one with a way to transport it. Remove that assumption and you're left with that person mixing by hand. I do a lot of diy, mixed my deck footers in my wheelbarrow but my first dry pour was 18 bags and I'm not interested in mixing 18 bags by hand. Doing that dry pour for a walkway was way easier, less rush and will hold up just as long as a wet pour for my purposes.
@@mitchmiller1429 Have you done a wet pour or just watched the videos? 😂
@@Toni_Snark yes, I have poured a dry pour entrance into my greenhouse. It is 2 years old and I hope it lasts, but it definitely looks more grainy and porous than my traditional sidewalks.
Keep that dust off your skin
My sinuses are getting messed up just from watching this.
Nice content. Stay safe.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
I enjoyed this one, April. I have watched a few makers on UA-cam, but you made me understand the process much better.
BTW: I admire how well you 'talk to the camera'. For the many years that I've watched you, I've always thought that you were speaking to me and only me. Don't burst my bubble and tell me that you were talking to someone else in addition to me.
Happy Sunday.
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed the video, Happy Sunday to you too!
Maker, UA-cam/TV star and multiple business owner?! Let’s go!!!!
Thanks for watching. :)
Never tried that way. How do you think that would work for a handicap ramp?
There are very good reasons why in the thousands of years of using concrete this method has only sprung up in the last 10 or so years in the south of the US. Think about that long and hard before employing it - especially for a handicap ramp.
No. Although I have used this method and will use it again.
A ramp needs to be poured using the regular method.
The top of the ramp is too thick and wont have proper compaction.
I'm creating an area for my garbage and recycle bins to be stored. Can't wait to try the method! As always your stories are helpful and fun to watch.
Awesome! Glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Is there a special bag to get?
Nope regular concrete works.
Although I recommend watering it for several days everytime it looks dry.
And let it sit for 3 or 4 before pulling the forms.
I have made several sidewalks like this.
The people I did them for dont drive tanks on them.
Rough is better than smooth for traction.
I'd only ever dry pour a fence post and dump a bucket of water on top when the post is set in it's finished position.
Another plus for dry versus wet. Is on a small pour like yours. A concrete truck will bring you the amount needed for a small pour, but they will charge you more for the smaller amount. At least they do where I live.
I don't care how trendy it is, dry pour is a half-assed effort.
For what I need, it will be fine. I enjoyed the project and wanted to show Viewers steps of how I proceeded. Thanks for watching.
@@AprilWilkersonit is plain crap. You obviously do not understand the first thing about how concrete actually works. Concrete relies on the proper hydration of the cement. That is impossible with dry pour. I have been in the masonry restoration business for over 45 years. Dry pour is ignorance plain and simple. You can achieve the same or better results with less than half the thickness of properly mixed concrete. That is a fact.
This looks waaaaay slower and messier, and much more actual work with having to keep coming back to wet it down.
Dry pour isn't a new method, it's just new to social media. Wet poured concrete all over the world has cracks in it. You nailed it when you said this is for light traffic applications. Anything bigger than a shed or a tiny home would probably need more strength. As a DIYer with a limited budget, I have been pouring all my concrete using this method. It works perfectly for my needs. I work alone so I need to be able to take my time and even spread the project out over 2 or 3 days. I'm thrilled with the results. People online need to learn to worry about themselves and their needs. If you don't like something, keep scrolling. Great job and thanks for this awesome video. It looks great.
Thanks! Yes, I think this will be perfect for what I need. Thanks for Sharing and for watching.
@aprilwilkerson The thumbnail for this video stresses me. I grew up in construction, and during the summer I would wear shorts while pouring slabs. I eventually developed the beginnings of concrete poisoning from the exposure to my legs. While dry pour doesn't have the same exposure, the moisture on your body from sweat can start the chemical reactions that will affect the skin. Cover up when handling concrete.
They have done destructive testing and dry pour doesn't withstand anywhere close to the same pressure as mixed.
This will only be walked upon so very little stress. Thanks for watching.
True elegance, just so right.
The bots are out in force 😏
April, I just thought I’d let you know that UA-cam unsubscribed me from your site. I started watching you years ago when you were still in your small garage. I hope they haven’t done this with many more people.
That’s a nice looking entry & walkway! It seems like concrete is always a lot of work, no matter how you do it… lol…. Thanks April, great job, please keep on building!
She's flawless, truly a work of art.
The bots are out in force 😏
stick to woodworking
Concretes appearance is secondary to the strength factor!!
@@hj8607 Not for a footpath.
@@aquatus1 gravel makes a footpath (concrete is not needed)
why do you call it angle iron? Isn't angle A36 steel?
time will tell, show a review in 6 months then a year
It's going to be tooop!😊👏👏👏 💖🌹
So glad you liked it!
Nothing like concrete dust to tighten the skin! Haha
wOw!
that really came out pretty solid!
nice job April👍🏾
Thanks! I'm pleased with it. Thanks for watching.
10:16 it's already cracking
It's fine for the foot traffic it will take. Thanks for watching.
Nice job April! 😃👍🏼👊🏼
Thanks for watching!
0:16 when you're making pancakes, you don't put flour on the pan and spray water on top of it and expect it to come out like a proper pancake, you gotta make a batter and let it sit for a few minutes to let the flour hydrate before pouring it on the pan..... ok, let me watch the rest of the video to see how it works with concrete
i posted this exact thing about 1 week ago except i used bread dough as my example. She deleted my comment, she wants to just remove anyone who doesnt agree with her
@@bmxscape honestly, after watching the full video, i'm still a bit skeptical, but April says it works for her purposes; and it's not like it's a load-bearing wall or a house foundation, so 🤷♂
@@bmxscape She probably just doesn't like annoying know-it-all comments. Who does?
@@Toni_Snark wow thanks for the very constructive comment. go dry pour some concrete
Very clever wearing gloves to protect hands, but wearing shorts and then sitting in it , and yes I have been in building trade for 49 years so know what cement can do
I'm in Texas in extremely hot weather so wear shorts every day. I acknowledged I should have worn jeans. Thanks for watching.
April I was very surprised when I saw what you were going to do. Only in watching you would I believe that it was even possible. Great job. Thank you
Thank you! It was quite a learning curve, but a really fun project!
👍
dry pour is quick and easy but 25-40% weaker than wet pour
So instead of having 4,000 psi concrete hers will only be 1,000 psi. That should work for the average person walking out of the shower with a wet towel and two sets of clothes.
@@dchall8yep she isnt parking a tank on it.
Well done! Love how you think outside the box. Awesome!🤙🏾💯
Thanks! This project was a lot of fun. Thanks for watching.
April also has an RV park now?? She is truly a great business woman!!
Yep! Pierced Oak RV Park! Thanks for watching.
I was so happy to see you do this! I’ve done several videos on this subject and the results are so surprising. And the added bonus… making the haters sooo angry 🤣
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! I think this will be fine for what I need. Thanks for watching.
The end job looks nice👌🏽
Thanks! I'm pleased with it. Thanks for watching.
Dry pour: great for sidewalks, mailbox, short fences with low wind loads. Saves a lot of mixing work.
Wet pour: heavy duty slabs, point loads, tall fences with high wind loads.
Yes! For my needs, this type of pour if fine. Thanks for watching.
It doesn’t make sense. I’m not a concrete guy, but that 4’ X whatever length slab is super manageable in a wet pour.
Also, if this process is really only good for small projects, what’s the point?
I dunno, not a fan. Good luck though!
If it’s good for small projects then people who do small projects can have another option. That would be the point.
@@mehill00 the point is that a small pour like this IS more than manageable. A novice can do this in a wet pour. Dry pour isn’t viable. If it was, concrete contractors would do it. April made content, nothing wrong with that, but it doesn’t make sense. End of discussion. Have a good evening!
@@markantinore6418 Concrete workers would never do dry. Professionals work fast and don’t want to come back and water a few times and they want to get the strongest most consistent results. It only makes sense in some limited cases for DIYers.
Well done April 😊
People think the water adds volume but of course it doesn't, it's just a catalyst. You need exactly as much dry concrete as it takes to fill the form. Since you built a roof over it I would keep hitting it with water from time to time, rain continues the process.
Hoping you do a follow up when it fails, BC it will.
Usually the easy way of doing anything is just the lazy way.
It's just for foot traffic going in a building, nothing heavier. It will be fine for this. Thanks for watching.
Why?
Curious about the amount of bags needed. If doing a dry pour did you find you needed more bags than doing a wet pour? I’m assuming when mixing the water add to the volume of concrete so lees actual concrete would be needed to fill the form
Very disappointing to see you buying into the nonsense that is dry pour. It is weak and will slough off at the edges. You could have divided your porch into maybe four sections and done them separately to eliminate the dreaded urgency of a larger pour.
But instead she’s testing it and will report back. How can that be bad?
That took way longer and required far more finesse and fiddling than pouring and tamping wet mixed concrete would have leaving you with a very inferior slab, if it saved time then I could see the motivation.
You did make me laugh with your (not) expansion joints though!!!!
I use drymix for fence posts whenever I can.
you have to be super special to think you know more than the scientists who have done tests on concrete which determined wetter is better
Who needs scientists, the time tested advantages of using the scientific method, experts with years of study and real-world experience, and cold hard data when you can just, _"do your own research,"_ and verify your presuppositions by doing a simple google search?
@@StoneE4 or learn the hard way
Right, right...and we'll just pretend that a walkway for foot traffic needs the same strength as something requiring wet concrete. I mean, it's not like DIY doesn't require the exact same specifications that a licensed engineer would have to meet.
Did you laugh condescendingly and look down haughtily while typing, so that everyone would know how much smarter you are?
@@aquatus1 concrete usually breaks from the weather, not from foot traffic lol. when you see a cracked sidewalk it's not because a fat man walked over it...
and when you see a sidewalk that feels like unreacted concrete, now you will know why
Wetter is better. But wet concrete is so much better that even getting the fractional goodness out of a dry pour is plenty good enough for what she's using it for. Had she been building a runway for 747s, then call out the scientists and engineers. For a covered landing, she should be good to go.
Very cool!
Yes! I love this project! Thanks for watching.