Finally someone who knows what he is doing when mounting an electric fan to the radiator. You should never just put an electric fan to a radiator without a shroud. Good job
Неверно. Смотря какой кожух. Тот кожух,что он поставил - он будет создавать помеху для естественного обдува радиатора. Чтобы кожух хорошо работал и при этом не создавал сопротивления набегающему потоку - этот кожух должен быть достаточно широким и иметь коническое сужение к вентилятору. На редких машинах возможно соблюсти эти условия. Поэтому мой выбор - вентилятор БЕЗ кожуха.
Excellent content as allways. Nice install. I prefer the teflon paste on thermo-switches to help insure a good ground. Especially on a single terminal switch. Also touching the ground wire to the therm-switch body verifys your ground also for future testing. Did'nt mention wire size but 12 ga is mandatory for maximum rated cfm. Drive on brother! The over ride switch for the sensor is good to have if there is ever a failure of the thermo-switch. FWIW.
Spal all day long, I strictly run them and have never had a failure. OH and they actually work! If there good enough for Nascar, Mercedes and Lamborghini there good enough for me!
Thanks Andy! Got this project done with the guidance of your video! Had to buy an even lower profile fan cause low boy wouldn’t fit with my champion radiator. I even Cut the water pump stem but the bolts would still make contact 😅 Also, got a bad fan switch from the factory which had me baffled for a minute. I figured it out after I tested my switch wire to battery and temp probe wire to ground. Replaced the temp probe and it worked! 🎉
Awesome, it's always great to hear someone is able to use my videos to help with their project. Yeah, I've heard a few people had fitment issues depending on the Rad they had in their car. I was in a similar situation on my previous Mustang where I went as far as getting bolts for the water pump pulley that had a lower profile head (button head cap screws) and cut the pulley shaft (like you mentioned) to make everything fit. Getting a bad switch like you got has always been a nightmare of mine. Sometimes stuff like that isn't obvious and tracking it down can be a very large task. Couple that with the fact that we all want to get our car back on the road and having to wait for a new part like that just delays everything, compounding the frustration. I'm glad it all got worked out for you. :)
Word of caution - whenever I'm wrenching really close to the radiator I put a sheet of cardboard between the rad fins and the work area. You don't want to slip with a screwdriver or a crescent wrench and puncture the fins. Ask me how I know! A little bit of cardboard (or an old towel) buys a lot of insurance.
I'm not surprised if someone offers a shorter water pump, but I just replaced it not long ago and I didn't want to buy a new one so soon. However, I'll probably look into an electric pump next time. :)
Andy, when I was speaking with griffin about where to place our temp sensor, they suggest as far down in the radiator as possible because you want the fans to run based on the temperature of the coolant coming out of the radiator. If you have it on the top side, it's always going to run and will never shut off because the coolant is always above temp. We installed ours where the petcock was.
thanks for the vid andy, ive just installed my electric fan / shroud set up on the 65 fastback , your right about the clearance of the pully bolts and the fan, mine is just as close , to be honest it makes me a touch nervous , anyway time will tell
It will be fine, I haven't had any issues. On my last Mustang, I purchased shallower head bolts for a little more clearance and cut about 1/2" of the alignment rod on the water pump snout off. It gave me more room than I have now, but my current setup isn't causing any problems. :)
In the middle of installing my new rad with fan. It ended up being a lot thicker than my existing one so I have had to install it on the outside of the bulkhead with some adjusting. Hopefully the rest of the install goes smoother.
Unfortunately this can be an issue for lots of people wanting to upgrade the radiator and fan. I heard that you can cut a slit in the top of the core support to allow the tabs of the radiator to slide down, putting the radiator on the inside of the core support (like normal) but the tabs are on the outside (front side). This can provide 1/4-3/8" more space, sometimes it's enough. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I just went for my maiden voyage but for some reason my switched signal won’t activate the fan which eventually caused it to overheat. Not sure why not but will probably just run a manual switch to inside the cabin.
@@Redmist.65 There could be a couple things going on here. 1 - the temp activated switch is no good. 2 - check the wiring for the relay, make sure the correct terminals are connected. 3 - you can check the whole circuit by grounding the wire going to the temp switch, if the fan turns on then there's something wrong with your temp switch. 4 - at a minimum you can wire so it's always on when the car is running, at least it will allow you to drive the car until you find the issue with the wiring. Good luck!
Nice video and explanation but I'm not sure how that metal shroud helps. It's so shallow that it effectively blocks air flow through roughly 25% of the radiator. The electric fan has a shroud on it to focus and pull air through it without blocking the rest of the radiator. Shrouds for mechanical fans are about 3 inches deep and don't block any areas so air can still flow through every part of the radiator. This basically places a wall 1/2" from the fins. The only area getting vented is directly in front of the fan which may be enough but why block the rest of the radiator? It also looks like the metal shroud blocks about 1" of the diameter of the electric fan itself (13:33) so you aren't getting the full effect of the fan. I'm going to get one of these but install it without the metal shroud, it's pretty but not practical.
The four places I considered were the stock temperature sending unit location (behind the distributor), the thermostat housing (where I actually put it, but only because I had that style of housing), the radiator drain location (but I didn't want to lose the ease of draining the Rad with the petcock), and a union piece with a threaded bung that I'd have to cut the lower radiator hose in half and install it between the two pieces. If none of that is a realistic option for you, then using that style that gets installed between the fins of the radiator might be your best option. I updated the description with a link to a relay that will do the work you need. :)
Yes and No, my temps were getting really hot during the hotter weather we've had this summer. Since installing the fan, the temps don't get as high, and the weather has gotten hotter in the last week or so.
Would running the fan ground wire straight to the negative battery post cause any issues? I started having issues blowing out my voltage regulator shortly after installing one and just thought if maybe it could be related.
I don't see why running it straight to the ground terminal would cause an issue, but that's dependent on the wiring layout you've chosen. Also, I'm not sure why your voltage regulator is getting thumped, but again it depends on how you wired your fans.
So I got all the same setup as yours but I forgot I had the champion two core radiator which is still thicker than stock. So it didn’t fit I might just go with the included zip tie mounts. I was thinking my thermostat is set at 195 so I’m thinking of getting a 200 on 185 off temp sensor instead thoughts?
I had a Champion Rad on my last Mustang and I had the same problem with the fan not fitting. I cut off the steel shaft about a 1/2" or so that stuck out past the water pump pulley, and used low button head cap screws to hold the pulley on. It was enough to clear and I never had a problem with the two touching, but it was close. If you can get your shroud to will with all that, I recommend trying to get it to work as it will do a better job of keeping the coolant temps down. Just don't cut off too much of that shaft, you still need a bump on there to help center the pulley, but the four bolts are doing most of the work. I have a 190 thermostat and my temps are nice and low with my setup. We've had some real hot days in the last few weeks and the needle has not gotten above the "m" in TEMP since I installed the fan. Before I did the swap, the needle would get to the "p".
@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you! I did see that video you made but did not realize you also used shorter heads on the bolts I’ll try that as well as shaving down the center pin on the pump and see if I can get it to fit!
Hello Andy How do you like that fan ? Does it really work cooling down your temp. I really like the Taurus fan i installed it on my 68 camaro. But the taurus fan wont fit on my 65 Fastback. In in California and sometimes you sit in traffic. Whats your experience with that low boy fan. Thanks
The fan is fantastic. In the middle of the summer the car gets up to temp quickly and this fan brings the temps down in a hurry. I can sit at a light, hear the fan switch on, and watch the temp drop on the gauge. While the fan is doing most of the work, that shroud is the other part of the equation. That shroud forces all the air pulled through the radiator to go through the fan. Without it, the fan only works on the 16 inch circle covering the radiator.
Great video, I watched it before installing one on my ‘70 Mach 1 today. Like yours, clearance is tight. Have you had any issues with it being so close?
Thanks! No issues with this unit, it worked great while I had it. I have since upgraded to a larger radiator with a dual fan setup, to go with my new 347 Stroker! :)
Got a 70 mach 1, keep your belt driven fan, there more reliable, I work in a restoration shop, we are always replacing electric fans in the shop, your car is now less reliable, owner of my car 46 years
This particular fan is a "puller", meaning it has to be on the engine side of the radiator because it pulls air through the Rad. If someone wanted to put a fan on the front side of the Rad, they would need to find one identified as a "pusher" so it can push the air through. So in this case, the fan I have in this video would not work as a Pusher, but Flex-A-Lite does make that fan. :)
I just installed got a new radiator with the electric fan and installed a new thermostat. 3 weeks later I started the car up again and it ran for about 20 mins! All the radiator fluid leaked out and there was a LOUD pop noise. 😫😫😫
If the motor mounts wear or you have power steering any concern of motor movement hitting that fan? I have fought so much with my car with mechanical fixed, fan clutch and electric to see what will cool best at idle and haven’t found the best solution yet. Electric fans require new beefy alternator and dont they block the wind at freeway speeds from flowing through the rad? I know the mustang forums are all over the board on electric fans and cooling.
The motor mounts and transmission mount would all have to wear out for the motor to move. Not sure how a power steering car would do with this setup, but I suspect it would be fine as the water pump is dictating the available small space and the power steering pump would be off to the side. People can preach all day about the factory fan doing a good enough job, or even a clutch fan, but I actually saw a difference in my car's temps. With the hot weather we'd had this year, the stock setup has seen the needle on the gauge get to the "p" in TEMP. Since I put the electric fan in, with no other changes to the motor or car, the needle hasn't gotten past the "m", and it's been 100 degree days here for a while now. Some people are purist and they say the stock setup is fine. Maybe for them, but not for me. Plus, I have future plans that I don't think the stock setup will be sufficient at that time. The fan on any car in any configuration doesn't do much for the coolant temps about 30 MPH. At that point the air blowing through the radiator is doing more work. I have yet to see the fan even turn on while driving on the highway. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel great follow up information good to know! I already have everything else just need the slimmer fan and I will try it out too. My temps on both my 289 mustangs have been on the high side. The coupe has been good on stock clutch so far but in stop and go traffic with ambient vehicle heat it’s pegged temp a few times where I had to rev in neutral (c4 auto) to get it to cool more. All new cooling with an additional mechanics gauge along with the stock temp gauge. Idle is the bane of my existence trying to use my 66 coupe as a daily lol.
Were you actually having cooling issues? I've seen several cases when the shroud will actually cause more issues. Don't be surprised if you need to punch some holes in the shroud. Can't wait for the ride report.
With the hot weather we've had lately, the needle had gotten close to the "p" in TEMP, but ever since I installed this electric fan, it hasn't gotten past the "m".
@@swooshdave I don't know, the Temp gauge in these cars does not provide that kind of info. However, the higher the needle, the higher the temp, so the needle on the "m" is better than the needle on the "p".
@@AndyKruseChannel Do you have one of those laser temp guns? About $15 from HF. My thermostat housing reads exactly the same as my temp gauge (Autometer).
A better way to wire the relay is to use a 5 wire , wired as battery positive to pin 87 , 87a to ground and 30 to fan positive , of coure 85 and 86 would be the same as a 4 wire relay . This provides a short to fan on shutoff so there's no backfeed to the system causing a burnt relay if wired as 4 wire.
My 65 has a radiator with the top hose on the passenger side and the bottom hose on the driver's side. I bought the car like this from a little old lady that finally decided she wanted to sell it, Does anyone know what car this radiator might have came from? The block is at 302 from a 71 Torino, interestingly enough the heads are probably original because their stamped 65. I thought I would have to switch to an aluminum radiator but this setup seems to work really well. The only downside is you have a really small window to see the timing indicator because of the hose LOL.
You likely have the water pump that exits on the driver's side, hence the different radiator. You could replace the water pump (I have a video on that) with a unit that exists on the passenger side, then sourcing a radiator for your car will likely be easier. :)
That is a 5.0 conversion radiator but technically the offset inlet and outlet supposedly provided better flow hence why they switched in the later years.
@@sergioacevedo2874 Thanks for letting me know. The car stays stable at 170, that seems a little low but I'd rather be low then high. I had a 65 20 years ago that had the standard inlet and outlet on the same side and the temp fluctuated a lot more then this setup does. Crazy that it looks like it bolts right up unless I'm not seeing something which is very possible.
@@BPattB I was watching a video the other day where they flir temp tested it and the passenger side inlet outlet just goes from one to the other with dead spots flow just goes from one end to the other unless it’s a more modern one with a baffle but the driver side inlet outlet forced the water through all rows so it would cool more supposedly. But cooler is better for sure. If the low temp is a concern you can check the thermostat might not be a 195 or 180. But low temp seems like a good problem lol. I’d check it with a temp gun just to confirm but sounds like a good thing lol
@@Cornerstonebjj I wouldn't see that terminal is key-on power, partially because that terminal is not a constant 12V signal. However, in my setup (not sure about your MSD setup) it's enough to drive the signal for a relay.
@AndyKruseChannel thank you so much. I just watched your override fan switch video and I will be doing the same thing this week on my 66 stang. Your videos are amazing by the way.
@@AndyKruseChannel Thickness of the shroud. I saw there was only a sliver of clearance once everything was installed... want to get a shroud that the same thickness or thinner so I don't touch the water pump.
@@TheRareCriticalThinker I guess I should have answered that I don't know because I don't have that setup anymore. However, it was around 1/2", I purchase it off eBay. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel SOMETIMES THE FAN ACTS LIKE GEN. & FEED 12V. BACK. WE HAD HAPPEN WHEN WE INSTALL FAN ON H.D. TRANSMISSION COOLER ON AMBULANCES, FDNY..
@@AndyKruseChannel Oops, sorry. I have a different car. It's a 300E W124. Thanks to it's inline 6 engine, the whole place is cramped on front of the radiator. And even if it's the radiator, can't replace it with a thinner one. Here in Saudi Arabia it gets close to 50C so I cannot afford to. Need that amount of coolant.
I think your instructions tell you not to use Teflon tape or any other product that will interfere with a good ground. These are pipe threads that need no sealing help !!
As always, awesome video Andy! 2 questions: 1.) On the temp switch, when I install that and run that temp sensor wire to pin 85, can I tap into that wire with my existing lead that goes to my existing temp gauge to continue to get my temp reading? I would assume that would still be ok as the temp switch will constantly read temp but just ground out in the specified range for the fan to kick on. 2.) For the life of me I can't find your video where before you get started you push a button on top of your battery's negative cable that opens the circuit and cuts power to the car. Can you share where you got that from? I would love to stop having to connect/disconnect the battery cable directly every time I work on the car!
The temperature sending unit (for the temp gauge in the dash) and the temp switch for the fans (like I have in this video) are two different devices. The temp sending unit (installed in my intake manifold) shows a resistance value (in ohms) that the temp gauge in the dash reads and displays a temp. The temp switch for my fans is essentially an on-ff device. The temp switch is open (not allowing the circuit to complete) until a preset temp is reached, at which point the temp switch closes and allows the circuit to complete and the fans turn on. The wire connected to this temp switch is the ground wire for my relay. Once the wire "sees" ground, the relay activates and juice from the battery runs to the electric fans, and it remains running until the coolant temp level drops enough to cause that temp switch to open back up (opening the circuit and stopping the relay from grounding). That circuit breaker on my battery (the video where I move the battery to the trunk) is just a generic unit off Ebay. It's a 200A circuit, and I believe it's commonly used in marine applications. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel gotcha - and thank you! So right now I have 2 temp sending units - one at the thermostat housing and one at the back of the motor (I have a 200 i6). I'd assume my temp 'switch' for the e-fan should go at the thermostat housing location then, and I would need to relocate the wire I have there now to the temp sending unit at the back of the motor if I want to keep both temp gauges. I know I don't NEED two temp gauges, but I've kind of gotten used to having them both, knowing they took readings from different spots on the engine. Guess I'll have to give that up and use one location for both temp gauges moving forward...
Personally, I think it's redundant to have two temp sending units as the unit at the back of your system will show the temp you're interested in. If that temp goes too high, your thermostat is not opening and you'll need to diagnose what's going on. Having that sending unit in front of the thermostat will give a false reading of the coolant temp as the readings are after the coolant has been cooled by the radiator, and not really relevant to the status of the engine. Some people argue that putting the temp sensor for the fans in front of the thermostat (like I have done) will not activate the fans on the true temp of the engine. I'm not worried about that as I don't care if the fans turn on at 175 degrees or 190 degrees, I just need them to turn before 220 degrees, which it does do. The actual temp of the engine is higher than when my fan switch activates, but it's like less than a 5 degree difference, so it's not really an issue.
Finally someone who knows what he is doing when mounting an electric fan to the radiator. You should never just put an electric fan to a radiator without a shroud. Good job
Haha, thanks. :)
Неверно. Смотря какой кожух. Тот кожух,что он поставил - он будет создавать помеху для естественного обдува радиатора. Чтобы кожух хорошо работал и при этом не создавал сопротивления набегающему потоку - этот кожух должен быть достаточно широким и иметь коническое сужение к вентилятору. На редких машинах возможно соблюсти эти условия. Поэтому мой выбор - вентилятор БЕЗ кожуха.
Excellent content as allways. Nice install. I prefer the teflon paste on thermo-switches to help insure a good ground. Especially on a single terminal switch. Also touching the ground wire to the therm-switch body verifys your ground also for future testing. Did'nt mention wire size but 12 ga is mandatory for maximum rated cfm. Drive on brother! The over ride switch for the sensor is good to have if there is ever a failure of the thermo-switch. FWIW.
Great tip!
Spal all day long, I strictly run them and have never had a failure. OH and they actually work! If there good enough for Nascar, Mercedes and Lamborghini there good enough for me!
I just discovered your videos and they’re amazing. Please post all work and parts you do and use on your 66
Welcome aboard. Every part number is listed in the description, and most have an Amazon link to help you get the correct parts. :)
Thanks Andy! Got this project done with the guidance of your video!
Had to buy an even lower profile fan cause low boy wouldn’t fit with my champion radiator. I even Cut the water pump stem but the bolts would still make contact 😅
Also, got a bad fan switch from the factory which had me baffled for a minute. I figured it out after I tested my switch wire to battery and temp probe wire to ground. Replaced the temp probe and it worked! 🎉
Awesome, it's always great to hear someone is able to use my videos to help with their project.
Yeah, I've heard a few people had fitment issues depending on the Rad they had in their car. I was in a similar situation on my previous Mustang where I went as far as getting bolts for the water pump pulley that had a lower profile head (button head cap screws) and cut the pulley shaft (like you mentioned) to make everything fit.
Getting a bad switch like you got has always been a nightmare of mine. Sometimes stuff like that isn't obvious and tracking it down can be a very large task. Couple that with the fact that we all want to get our car back on the road and having to wait for a new part like that just delays everything, compounding the frustration. I'm glad it all got worked out for you. :)
Word of caution - whenever I'm wrenching really close to the radiator I put a sheet of cardboard between the rad fins and the work area. You don't want to slip with a screwdriver or a crescent wrench and puncture the fins. Ask me how I know! A little bit of cardboard (or an old towel) buys a lot of insurance.
Yeah, but it doesn't make for great content if I put safety and common sense first. :)
Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
My pleasure!
Was waiting to see if this fan was going to be as deep as your last one, good thinking
Yeah, this one definitely fit better. Down the road I'll probably look into an electric pump and see how that comes out. :)
Great job. Very clear and concise install process. Thanks for your help.
Awesome, it's always great to hear people are able to pull a nugget of info from my videos. :)
You can also run a shorty water pump to buy 1.5” of space.
Do you have a part number or something I’ve been looking to get a shorter water pump if I do this!
I'm not surprised if someone offers a shorter water pump, but I just replaced it not long ago and I didn't want to buy a new one so soon. However, I'll probably look into an electric pump next time. :)
Interested too. :)
Part: 302-WP-CW-SHORTY
There may be a few other models, too.
@@CrazyGuyBlahBlah sweet thank you!
Andy, when I was speaking with griffin about where to place our temp sensor, they suggest as far down in the radiator as possible because you want the fans to run based on the temperature of the coolant coming out of the radiator. If you have it on the top side, it's always going to run and will never shut off because the coolant is always above temp. We installed ours where the petcock was.
This is probably good advice.
thanks for the vid andy, ive just installed my electric fan / shroud set up on the 65 fastback , your right about the clearance of the pully bolts and the fan, mine is just as close , to be honest it makes me a touch nervous , anyway time will tell
It will be fine, I haven't had any issues. On my last Mustang, I purchased shallower head bolts for a little more clearance and cut about 1/2" of the alignment rod on the water pump snout off. It gave me more room than I have now, but my current setup isn't causing any problems. :)
Nice job Andy.
Thanks!
In the middle of installing my new rad with fan. It ended up being a lot thicker than my existing one so I have had to install it on the outside of the bulkhead with some adjusting. Hopefully the rest of the install goes smoother.
Unfortunately this can be an issue for lots of people wanting to upgrade the radiator and fan. I heard that you can cut a slit in the top of the core support to allow the tabs of the radiator to slide down, putting the radiator on the inside of the core support (like normal) but the tabs are on the outside (front side). This can provide 1/4-3/8" more space, sometimes it's enough. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel that’s exactly what I done! Still not done yet but will try to finish it off before the weekend.
@@AndyKruseChannel I just went for my maiden voyage but for some reason my switched signal won’t activate the fan which eventually caused it to overheat. Not sure why not but will probably just run a manual switch to inside the cabin.
@@Redmist.65 There could be a couple things going on here. 1 - the temp activated switch is no good. 2 - check the wiring for the relay, make sure the correct terminals are connected. 3 - you can check the whole circuit by grounding the wire going to the temp switch, if the fan turns on then there's something wrong with your temp switch. 4 - at a minimum you can wire so it's always on when the car is running, at least it will allow you to drive the car until you find the issue with the wiring. Good luck!
Another great video Andy thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the support! :)
I put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to protect when removing bolts from the fan.
That's a great idea!
Nice Video 👌👍Thanks for Sharing
Thanks for visiting!
Nice video and explanation but I'm not sure how that metal shroud helps. It's so shallow that it effectively blocks air flow through roughly 25% of the radiator. The electric fan has a shroud on it to focus and pull air through it without blocking the rest of the radiator. Shrouds for mechanical fans are about 3 inches deep and don't block any areas so air can still flow through every part of the radiator. This basically places a wall 1/2" from the fins. The only area getting vented is directly in front of the fan which may be enough but why block the rest of the radiator? It also looks like the metal shroud blocks about 1" of the diameter of the electric fan itself (13:33) so you aren't getting the full effect of the fan. I'm going to get one of these but install it without the metal shroud, it's pretty but not practical.
Good luck.
Was wondering what the chrome tube is for ?
Which chrome tube? The overflow tank?
Hay. Were else can you put the sensor? And also do you have the link for the Relay?? Thanks🤘👍
The four places I considered were the stock temperature sending unit location (behind the distributor), the thermostat housing (where I actually put it, but only because I had that style of housing), the radiator drain location (but I didn't want to lose the ease of draining the Rad with the petcock), and a union piece with a threaded bung that I'd have to cut the lower radiator hose in half and install it between the two pieces. If none of that is a realistic option for you, then using that style that gets installed between the fins of the radiator might be your best option.
I updated the description with a link to a relay that will do the work you need. :)
Thanks man ill look for one on ebay
sounds good
Hello Andy thanks for getting back ag me
Where did you order the fan shroud and do you have a part number for it ?
Thanks again
I purchased it off Ebay. There are lots on there, just find one that fits your Rad and Fan size. :)
I saw a video of yours from 3 yrs ago where you installed an electric fan in your 66, what happened that you are doing it again?
Different Mustang. And then, I did another Fan in this same car, but two fans instead of one. :)
Hi Andy, Did you have any overheating issues? Thanks for anther informative video
Yes and No, my temps were getting really hot during the hotter weather we've had this summer. Since installing the fan, the temps don't get as high, and the weather has gotten hotter in the last week or so.
Would running the fan ground wire straight to the negative battery post cause any issues? I started having issues blowing out my voltage regulator shortly after installing one and just thought if maybe it could be related.
I don't see why running it straight to the ground terminal would cause an issue, but that's dependent on the wiring layout you've chosen. Also, I'm not sure why your voltage regulator is getting thumped, but again it depends on how you wired your fans.
the sudden off/on draw on the fan circuit can be too much for some voltage regulators. You can add a "soft-start" circuit which may help.
So I got all the same setup as yours but I forgot I had the champion two core radiator which is still thicker than stock. So it didn’t fit I might just go with the included zip tie mounts. I was thinking my thermostat is set at 195 so I’m thinking of getting a 200 on 185 off temp sensor instead thoughts?
I had a Champion Rad on my last Mustang and I had the same problem with the fan not fitting. I cut off the steel shaft about a 1/2" or so that stuck out past the water pump pulley, and used low button head cap screws to hold the pulley on. It was enough to clear and I never had a problem with the two touching, but it was close. If you can get your shroud to will with all that, I recommend trying to get it to work as it will do a better job of keeping the coolant temps down. Just don't cut off too much of that shaft, you still need a bump on there to help center the pulley, but the four bolts are doing most of the work.
I have a 190 thermostat and my temps are nice and low with my setup. We've had some real hot days in the last few weeks and the needle has not gotten above the "m" in TEMP since I installed the fan. Before I did the swap, the needle would get to the "p".
@@AndyKruseChannel Thank you! I did see that video you made but did not realize you also used shorter heads on the bolts I’ll try that as well as shaving down the center pin on the pump and see if I can get it to fit!
Hello Andy
How do you like that fan ?
Does it really work cooling down your temp. I really like the Taurus fan i installed it on my 68 camaro. But the taurus fan wont fit on my 65 Fastback. In in California and sometimes you sit in traffic. Whats your experience with that low boy fan.
Thanks
The fan is fantastic. In the middle of the summer the car gets up to temp quickly and this fan brings the temps down in a hurry. I can sit at a light, hear the fan switch on, and watch the temp drop on the gauge. While the fan is doing most of the work, that shroud is the other part of the equation. That shroud forces all the air pulled through the radiator to go through the fan. Without it, the fan only works on the 16 inch circle covering the radiator.
Great video, I watched it before installing one on my ‘70 Mach 1 today. Like yours, clearance is tight. Have you had any issues with it being so close?
Thanks!
No issues with this unit, it worked great while I had it. I have since upgraded to a larger radiator with a dual fan setup, to go with my new 347 Stroker! :)
Got a 70 mach 1, keep your belt driven fan, there more reliable, I work in a restoration shop, we are always replacing electric fans in the shop, your car is now less reliable, owner of my car 46 years
Where did you buy the thermostat housing you used ?
From Summit Racing. Manufacturer is Dorman, part number is 902-1001. :)
Would it effect the cooling if the electric fan is placed on the front of the radiator?
This particular fan is a "puller", meaning it has to be on the engine side of the radiator because it pulls air through the Rad. If someone wanted to put a fan on the front side of the Rad, they would need to find one identified as a "pusher" so it can push the air through. So in this case, the fan I have in this video would not work as a Pusher, but Flex-A-Lite does make that fan. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thx for the explanation and answer bcs I’m looking for one to mount on the front side not engine side
I just installed got a new radiator with the electric fan and installed a new thermostat. 3 weeks later I started the car up again and it ran for about 20 mins! All the radiator fluid leaked out and there was a LOUD pop noise. 😫😫😫
Yeah, sometimes working on a car is not as easy as it looks. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel isn’t that the truth! 🥴
If the motor mounts wear or you have power steering any concern of motor movement hitting that fan? I have fought so much with my car with mechanical fixed, fan clutch and electric to see what will cool best at idle and haven’t found the best solution yet. Electric fans require new beefy alternator and dont they block the wind at freeway speeds from flowing through the rad? I know the mustang forums are all over the board on electric fans and cooling.
The motor mounts and transmission mount would all have to wear out for the motor to move. Not sure how a power steering car would do with this setup, but I suspect it would be fine as the water pump is dictating the available small space and the power steering pump would be off to the side.
People can preach all day about the factory fan doing a good enough job, or even a clutch fan, but I actually saw a difference in my car's temps. With the hot weather we'd had this year, the stock setup has seen the needle on the gauge get to the "p" in TEMP. Since I put the electric fan in, with no other changes to the motor or car, the needle hasn't gotten past the "m", and it's been 100 degree days here for a while now. Some people are purist and they say the stock setup is fine. Maybe for them, but not for me. Plus, I have future plans that I don't think the stock setup will be sufficient at that time.
The fan on any car in any configuration doesn't do much for the coolant temps about 30 MPH. At that point the air blowing through the radiator is doing more work. I have yet to see the fan even turn on while driving on the highway. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel great follow up information good to know! I already have everything else just need the slimmer fan and I will try it out too. My temps on both my 289 mustangs have been on the high side. The coupe has been good on stock clutch so far but in stop and go traffic with ambient vehicle heat it’s pegged temp a few times where I had to rev in neutral (c4 auto) to get it to cool more. All new cooling with an additional mechanics gauge along with the stock temp gauge. Idle is the bane of my existence trying to use my 66 coupe as a daily lol.
Were you actually having cooling issues? I've seen several cases when the shroud will actually cause more issues. Don't be surprised if you need to punch some holes in the shroud. Can't wait for the ride report.
With the hot weather we've had lately, the needle had gotten close to the "p" in TEMP, but ever since I installed this electric fan, it hasn't gotten past the "m".
@@AndyKruseChannel What was the measured temperature?
@@swooshdave I don't know, the Temp gauge in these cars does not provide that kind of info. However, the higher the needle, the higher the temp, so the needle on the "m" is better than the needle on the "p".
@@AndyKruseChannel Do you have one of those laser temp guns? About $15 from HF. My thermostat housing reads exactly the same as my temp gauge (Autometer).
@@swooshdave I plan to install a set of Autometer gauges, so I'll be able to see the temp then. :)
A better way to wire the relay is to use a 5 wire , wired as battery positive to pin 87 , 87a to ground and 30 to fan positive , of coure 85 and 86 would be the same as a 4 wire relay . This provides a short to fan on shutoff so there's no backfeed to the system causing a burnt relay if wired as 4 wire.
Thanks for the heads up. :)
My 65 has a radiator with the top hose on the passenger side and the bottom hose on the driver's side. I bought the car like this from a little old lady that finally decided she wanted to sell it, Does anyone know what car this radiator might have came from? The block is at 302 from a 71 Torino, interestingly enough the heads are probably original because their stamped 65. I thought I would have to switch to an aluminum radiator but this setup seems to work really well. The only downside is you have a really small window to see the timing indicator because of the hose LOL.
You likely have the water pump that exits on the driver's side, hence the different radiator. You could replace the water pump (I have a video on that) with a unit that exists on the passenger side, then sourcing a radiator for your car will likely be easier. :)
That is a 5.0 conversion radiator but technically the offset inlet and outlet supposedly provided better flow hence why they switched in the later years.
@@sergioacevedo2874 Thanks for letting me know. The car stays stable at 170, that seems a little low but I'd rather be low then high. I had a 65 20 years ago that had the standard inlet and outlet on the same side and the temp fluctuated a lot more then this setup does. Crazy that it looks like it bolts right up unless I'm not seeing something which is very possible.
@@BPattB I was watching a video the other day where they flir temp tested it and the passenger side inlet outlet just goes from one to the other with dead spots flow just goes from one end to the other unless it’s a more modern one with a baffle but the driver side inlet outlet forced the water through all rows so it would cool more supposedly. But cooler is better for sure. If the low temp is a concern you can check the thermostat might not be a 195 or 180. But low temp seems like a good problem lol. I’d check it with a temp gun just to confirm but sounds like a good thing lol
where is the link for the fan shroud
It is from eBay, and those links never last. Just look up 16" shroud for your year Mustang, you'll be able to find what you need. :)
For some reason I do not have key on power from the same location
Same location of what?
@@AndyKruseChannel your key on power from the solenoid by the battery
I think it has to do with have a msd ignition maybe?
@@Cornerstonebjj I wouldn't see that terminal is key-on power, partially because that terminal is not a constant 12V signal. However, in my setup (not sure about your MSD setup) it's enough to drive the signal for a relay.
@AndyKruseChannel thank you so much. I just watched your override fan switch video and I will be doing the same thing this week on my 66 stang. Your videos are amazing by the way.
How thick is that custom shroud?
The thickness of the metal? Or the depth of the shroud from the Rad to the Fan?
@@AndyKruseChannel Thickness of the shroud. I saw there was only a sliver of clearance once everything was installed... want to get a shroud that the same thickness or thinner so I don't touch the water pump.
@@TheRareCriticalThinker I guess I should have answered that I don't know because I don't have that setup anymore. However, it was around 1/2", I purchase it off eBay. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for your fast responses! Surprised on such an old video too! What’s your new setup and why’d you change it?
@@TheRareCriticalThinker You've got some videos to watch. :)
Not supposed to use teflon tape, not necessary and interferes with ground
Does it though? Because I've never had a ground issue. :)
Just NOTE, WITH ENG. RUNNING. ELE. FAN WORKING.ENG WILL RUN FOR ABOUT 30 SEC. WITH KEY OFF. IN SOME CASES.
Not sure what you mean here. This is not wired to work with engine off, nor does the car run for 30 sec with the key off.
@@AndyKruseChannel SOMETIMES THE FAN ACTS LIKE GEN. & FEED 12V. BACK. WE HAD HAPPEN WHEN WE INSTALL FAN ON H.D. TRANSMISSION COOLER ON AMBULANCES, FDNY..
You're actually lucky to have 4 inches clearance. It's only 3.4" for me :(
You probably have a thicker radiator than what I've got. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel
Oops, sorry. I have a different car. It's a 300E W124. Thanks to it's inline 6 engine, the whole place is cramped on front of the radiator. And even if it's the radiator, can't replace it with a thinner one. Here in Saudi Arabia it gets close to 50C so I cannot afford to. Need that amount of coolant.
I think your instructions tell you not to use Teflon tape or any other product that will interfere with a good ground. These are pipe threads that need no sealing help !!
They probably do. :)
Well it is in the front of the car buuttt it is not an electric power steering install. 🙂
We're getting closer, I think.
As always, awesome video Andy! 2 questions: 1.) On the temp switch, when I install that and run that temp sensor wire to pin 85, can I tap into that wire with my existing lead that goes to my existing temp gauge to continue to get my temp reading? I would assume that would still be ok as the temp switch will constantly read temp but just ground out in the specified range for the fan to kick on. 2.) For the life of me I can't find your video where before you get started you push a button on top of your battery's negative cable that opens the circuit and cuts power to the car. Can you share where you got that from? I would love to stop having to connect/disconnect the battery cable directly every time I work on the car!
The temperature sending unit (for the temp gauge in the dash) and the temp switch for the fans (like I have in this video) are two different devices. The temp sending unit (installed in my intake manifold) shows a resistance value (in ohms) that the temp gauge in the dash reads and displays a temp. The temp switch for my fans is essentially an on-ff device. The temp switch is open (not allowing the circuit to complete) until a preset temp is reached, at which point the temp switch closes and allows the circuit to complete and the fans turn on. The wire connected to this temp switch is the ground wire for my relay. Once the wire "sees" ground, the relay activates and juice from the battery runs to the electric fans, and it remains running until the coolant temp level drops enough to cause that temp switch to open back up (opening the circuit and stopping the relay from grounding).
That circuit breaker on my battery (the video where I move the battery to the trunk) is just a generic unit off Ebay. It's a 200A circuit, and I believe it's commonly used in marine applications. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel gotcha - and thank you! So right now I have 2 temp sending units - one at the thermostat housing and one at the back of the motor (I have a 200 i6). I'd assume my temp 'switch' for the e-fan should go at the thermostat housing location then, and I would need to relocate the wire I have there now to the temp sending unit at the back of the motor if I want to keep both temp gauges. I know I don't NEED two temp gauges, but I've kind of gotten used to having them both, knowing they took readings from different spots on the engine. Guess I'll have to give that up and use one location for both temp gauges moving forward...
Personally, I think it's redundant to have two temp sending units as the unit at the back of your system will show the temp you're interested in. If that temp goes too high, your thermostat is not opening and you'll need to diagnose what's going on. Having that sending unit in front of the thermostat will give a false reading of the coolant temp as the readings are after the coolant has been cooled by the radiator, and not really relevant to the status of the engine. Some people argue that putting the temp sensor for the fans in front of the thermostat (like I have done) will not activate the fans on the true temp of the engine. I'm not worried about that as I don't care if the fans turn on at 175 degrees or 190 degrees, I just need them to turn before 220 degrees, which it does do. The actual temp of the engine is higher than when my fan switch activates, but it's like less than a 5 degree difference, so it's not really an issue.