Link to Xtool P2: www.xtool.com/products/xtool-p2-55w-co2-laser-cutter?ref=rVAr7a1K& Also, join our Facebook community for endless laser learning, project inspiration, and sharing: facebook.com/groups/mellowpinelasers/
😂 I totally agree with you, metric is better, even I use it for all my measurements and projects. But for the videos I try to include the imperial as well
I haven't watched the video yet, but, coming from a woodworking background, you ALWAYS double-check your work. "Measure twice, cut once" I'm using D1 Pro, and even when using a Jig that I created, and using absolute coordinates, on a job I've already run, I still frame it before running, and, it has saved me several times.
@@MellowpineLasers I'm very much the same way. I will often frame the job up with square several times, to make sure my area is good, then again several times with the circle to make sure it's going exactly where I want it. And on my D1 Pro 20w, I also use the laser spot, not the crosshairs
You mentioned adding water, did you also add the anti-freeze that came with it? (Edit: asking because my laser never instructed me to use it so I'm not sure about how to use it when I get this one)
You need to add antifreeze to water only if the anual lowest temperature in your area goes below 0 degree Celsius. The ratio of antifreeze to water needed for different temperature ranges is clearly mentioned in the instruction manual. It's easy to figure out. If you have any doubts when you get the machine please shoot me an email.
They could have placed the E stop towards the front, I opened up the body panels and there is enough space for an E stop towards the front. On the plus side the button on the top can pause jobs. I tried using it with LightBurn, it was annoying not having a pointer. I think I'll design a pointer attachment for P2 that you can 3D print. If I do I'll share it.
Does the laser spot seem big to you? I've been looking at other lasers, and the beam is much smaller ( .025mm - Omtech Polar vs .20mm x .15mm on P2). I do miniatures in 1:48 scale. Also, do you know what the size of the focal lens is? Is it replaceable (miniaturists primarily use a 1.5")?
Yes, you are correct the spot size is large for really fine engraving. The lens used on the P2 is primarily designed for cutting so it has a longer focal length to get more depth of cut. The lens can be easily replaced, however, there is one problem. If you go for a shorter focal lens to get smaller spot size the focusing distance is also reduced. With the current lens the distance between the nozzle and the surface is under 10mm and the nozzle is not removable in the variant I have. This means I cannot use a shorter focal lens without the nozzle hitting my workpiece.
Most features look innovative but the emergency stop is in a very poor location. When you have to hit the stop you don't want to be reaching over a machine to do it especially if there is a fire. Proper emergency stops on industrial machines are right were the operator is. Price is a strange thing as it seems that convenient size is a premium price. I just bought a 1390 for less than this unit where some features are not needed due to work size.
I would not consider it as a deal breaker. Because I know that I'm never going to use 1000 dpi. Maybe I'll try out one image at 1000 dpi and that's just to see how it looks. Higher DPI settings take too much time and it also burns the material. I mostly use 254 DPI and the image turns out really good for me. If you could share your email I'll share a pic of 500 DPI vs 1000 DPI.
Great vid, been waiting for the P2 to come out so I can order one. One question... The laser is 55W but are you not suppose to run a CO2 laser over 80% power in order for longer life? So really this is a usable 44W laser? Be nice for some run speeds at 80%
Yes you are correct. You need to run it at low power levels for longer life. This means you have to run your jobs at slower speeds, but, yes you will be able to use it for most jobs. If you see the tests I haven't used 100% for most jobs. For engraving you don't have to go beyond 50% in most cases. You only need 80%+ when you are cutting really thick material.
Nice review! I currently Kacey the BBP and it is listed at 50W.. you have it at 40W on your spreadsheet.. was this a typo or have they changed the specs on the newer models?.. also, not sure if you know how does the cooling system hold up ? I had to add a custom home-made chiller to my bbp since the ambient temperature when I'm cutting can be 85° F.. thanks in advance.
You need to open up the back to fill in coolant anyway, don't you? It shouldn't void the warranty… They do have added pointer, I think. From a live stream they did today: ua-cam.com/video/PZBsg9T8Qts/v-deo.html This sounds like a really nice machine for the price (and even better if you could the $1000 discount pre-launch). I am a little intimidated by the size, but bigger is better, right? :) [Edit: The pointer seems to be for the camera, not the laser…]
Opening the back doesn't void warranty. I opened the entire body that's how I figured out what all sensors it has. There were screws that had seals on them.
You can find the software here: www.xtool.com/pages/software The version for P2 is not open to public yet, you'll receive a software update when the P2 starts shipping.
I was running it too fast, just wanted to see if I could run the rotary. Dropped the piece on it, used a ball park speed and power and ran it. But the engraving came out good and I thought I'll add it to the video.
Nice review! The P2 looks pretty solid. I agree, the emergency button placement needs better placement. Do you have any recommendations with dealing with fumes and smoke?
The exhaust system works well, and the doors don't open until about 10 seconds after job completion. You can duct the exhaust outside. xTool also has a air filter if you cannot vent the fumes outside. I haven't used it yet but seems good.
@@MellowpineLasers I plan to duct the exhaust outside but worry about the impact to my neighbors - we share walls so their windows and balcony are really close. I’ll consider the xTool air filter, but I’d appreciate if you have any others you’d recommend. Thanks!
Link to Xtool P2: www.xtool.com/products/xtool-p2-55w-co2-laser-cutter?ref=rVAr7a1K&
Also, join our Facebook community for endless laser learning, project inspiration, and sharing: facebook.com/groups/mellowpinelasers/
It would be interesting to compare the P2 to the Gloweforge Pro, not only the basic one, with all of the related improvements. Thanks for the review.
In a civilized world we use the metric system.
😂 I totally agree with you, metric is better, even I use it for all my measurements and projects. But for the videos I try to include the imperial as well
@@MellowpineLasers Their are also some dudes outside the USA which appreciate your videos. Be kind to us! Thank you.
Point noted. I will make sure I display the numbers in Metric over the video whenever I say anything in imperial. Sounds good?
Imperial is the best there is, bud. Your fingertip is exactly 1 inch long. Go ahead, measure it. EXACTLY one inch.
I appreciate the comparison at the end, but if you were buying one of those machines, which one do you think provides the best bang for the buck?
If you ask me I'd say xTool does provide you the best bang for the buck.
Quick question, why do you need framing when the cameras position the job perfectly?
I haven't watched the video yet, but, coming from a woodworking background, you ALWAYS double-check your work. "Measure twice, cut once"
I'm using D1 Pro, and even when using a Jig that I created, and using absolute coordinates, on a job I've already run, I still frame it before running, and, it has saved me several times.
You're right, the camera does a fine job. But I like to run things manually on LightBurn and a pointer would have been good. It's just a me thing 😃
@tim wigmore yup always measure twice or maybe four times and cut once
@@MellowpineLasers I'm very much the same way. I will often frame the job up with square several times, to make sure my area is good, then again several times with the circle to make sure it's going exactly where I want it. And on my D1 Pro 20w, I also use the laser spot, not the crosshairs
You mentioned adding water, did you also add the anti-freeze that came with it? (Edit: asking because my laser never instructed me to use it so I'm not sure about how to use it when I get this one)
You need to add antifreeze to water only if the anual lowest temperature in your area goes below 0 degree Celsius. The ratio of antifreeze to water needed for different temperature ranges is clearly mentioned in the instruction manual. It's easy to figure out. If you have any doubts when you get the machine please shoot me an email.
@@MellowpineLasers Thank you for the response! Makes sense to me 😃
👌 amazing video!
Thank you! Cheers!
Dumb placement for the E Stop. It would have been very inexpensive to have a light indicating where the laser head is
They could have placed the E stop towards the front, I opened up the body panels and there is enough space for an E stop towards the front. On the plus side the button on the top can pause jobs. I tried using it with LightBurn, it was annoying not having a pointer. I think I'll design a pointer attachment for P2 that you can 3D print. If I do I'll share it.
Does the laser spot seem big to you? I've been looking at other lasers, and the beam is much smaller ( .025mm - Omtech Polar vs .20mm x .15mm on P2). I do miniatures in 1:48 scale. Also, do you know what the size of the focal lens is? Is it replaceable (miniaturists primarily use a 1.5")?
Yes, you are correct the spot size is large for really fine engraving. The lens used on the P2 is primarily designed for cutting so it has a longer focal length to get more depth of cut. The lens can be easily replaced, however, there is one problem. If you go for a shorter focal lens to get smaller spot size the focusing distance is also reduced. With the current lens the distance between the nozzle and the surface is under 10mm and the nozzle is not removable in the variant I have. This means I cannot use a shorter focal lens without the nozzle hitting my workpiece.
Most features look innovative but the emergency stop is in a very poor location. When you have to hit the stop you don't want to be reaching over a machine to do it especially if there is a fire. Proper emergency stops on industrial machines are right were the operator is.
Price is a strange thing as it seems that convenient size is a premium price. I just bought a 1390 for less than this unit where some features are not needed due to work size.
Yes the E stop placement is bad.
When you go beyond a certain size the price just shoots up like crazy.
The riser they are selling is crazy expensive. If you painted the wood you used to raise the P2 black, it would look great. LOL!
Should've done that lol
I'd like to see a comparison with the Glowforge Pro and to know how much of a difference there is between 1000 and 1355 DPI.
I would not consider it as a deal breaker. Because I know that I'm never going to use 1000 dpi. Maybe I'll try out one image at 1000 dpi and that's just to see how it looks. Higher DPI settings take too much time and it also burns the material. I mostly use 254 DPI and the image turns out really good for me. If you could share your email I'll share a pic of 500 DPI vs 1000 DPI.
Great vid, been waiting for the P2 to come out so I can order one. One question...
The laser is 55W but are you not suppose to run a CO2 laser over 80% power in order for longer life? So really this is a usable 44W laser? Be nice for some run speeds at 80%
Yes you are correct. You need to run it at low power levels for longer life. This means you have to run your jobs at slower speeds, but, yes you will be able to use it for most jobs. If you see the tests I haven't used 100% for most jobs. For engraving you don't have to go beyond 50% in most cases. You only need 80%+ when you are cutting really thick material.
Nice review! I currently Kacey the BBP and it is listed at 50W.. you have it at 40W on your spreadsheet.. was this a typo or have they changed the specs on the newer models?.. also, not sure if you know how does the cooling system hold up ? I had to add a custom home-made chiller to my bbp since the ambient temperature when I'm cutting can be 85° F.. thanks in advance.
Yes, it's a typo, the BBP is 50W. Regarding the temperature, the P2 never went beyond 84 F even after prolonged use, the cooling is adequate
You need to open up the back to fill in coolant anyway, don't you? It shouldn't void the warranty…
They do have added pointer, I think. From a live stream they did today: ua-cam.com/video/PZBsg9T8Qts/v-deo.html
This sounds like a really nice machine for the price (and even better if you could the $1000 discount pre-launch). I am a little intimidated by the size, but bigger is better, right? :)
[Edit: The pointer seems to be for the camera, not the laser…]
Opening the back doesn't void warranty. I opened the entire body that's how I figured out what all sensors it has. There were screws that had seals on them.
Great video, thanks! I ordered one. One question, where do you download the XCS software?? All I can find is the software for Laserbox.
You can find the software here: www.xtool.com/pages/software
The version for P2 is not open to public yet, you'll receive a software update when the P2 starts shipping.
@@MellowpineLasers Thanks!!
Great review!!!! I thought the rotary example on the D1 riser looked very jaggy and not smooth...any reasons why?
I was running it too fast, just wanted to see if I could run the rotary. Dropped the piece on it, used a ball park speed and power and ran it. But the engraving came out good and I thought I'll add it to the video.
@@MellowpineLasers EXCELLENT. You really did a great job, I look forward to another review after they work everything out.
Did you say you can't frame in XCS?
Yeah, there is no framing option in XCS yet. But then again you don't need as you have a really good camera for placing designs.
Is the P2 capable of engraving on brick?
I'll try and let you know.
Great review. Thanks
You're welcome
Only if it supports lightburn😢😢😢
It might soon. xTool is working with LightBurn team to make it work.
@@MellowpineLasers it would be a steal with all those features embedded in lightburn
Definitely, I hope that becomes a reality
Nice review! The P2 looks pretty solid. I agree, the emergency button placement needs better placement. Do you have any recommendations with dealing with fumes and smoke?
The exhaust system works well, and the doors don't open until about 10 seconds after job completion. You can duct the exhaust outside. xTool also has a air filter if you cannot vent the fumes outside. I haven't used it yet but seems good.
@@MellowpineLasers I plan to duct the exhaust outside but worry about the impact to my neighbors - we share walls so their windows and balcony are really close. I’ll consider the xTool air filter, but I’d appreciate if you have any others you’d recommend. Thanks!
There are some from Omtech as well that you can look at. I haven't used any of the filter systems yet so I cannot comment on which one is the best.
Great Review. Very well done.
Thank you so much
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!