*100% best **Generater.Systems** I have used. A test for hurricane prep here in Louisiana: three AC units, 5000, 5000 & 8000, 3 fridges, 2 device power setups, 4 flat screens....AND I had 40% of the power meter to spare.*
This video is very helpful. I installed this kit on a brick wall. I drilled from the outside in to avoid the excessive damage doing it in reverse will cause to the brick. It took time to get the exact location from the outside, but I wanted the hole in the centre of a brick for strength and to ensure the three screw holes would go straight into brick, not the mortar. I used sealant instead of PVC cement in case I need to open up the system to replace the plug or exterior box. To strengthen the assembly, I used nylon plugs in the 3 pre-drilled holes in the brick on the outside and used 4 toggle bolts into the wall on the inside to mount the 6 plug setup. I feel the toggle bolts will definitely make a difference securing the 6 plug setup to the interior wall, especially considering how unplugging cords from it will pull on the entire assembly each time. Wall plugs are normally mounted to a wood stud for strength, so these will be very secure. On the exterior wall, I had to widen the hole to allow the conduit fitting to recess into the wall. The conduit fitting concerns me since they now include a ring to insert in the back of the exterior box. It causes the conduit fitting to have very few threads inside the exterior box to tighten down on. There's barely a singe turn available. I hope they address this for others installing the kit. Time will tell if it holds, but its another reason I'm glad I went with silicone sealer instead of PVC cement.
Hey deejaay, thank you so much for sharing the details of your installation. If you took any pictures along the way, let us know because we'd love to see it. If you do happen to run into any issues we're here to help. Thanks for watching!
Good morning, LOVE this through the wall kit, however: my generator only has 2 each 120 volt outlets. Q: do you make a kit that would get me through the wall for these smaller generators? Thanks.
Hey, thanks for your question. Yes, this would be done with a Wago connector, or butt connector that is UL listed. With the length you are describing it would probably be best to do the connections in a junction box. 10 AWG would be needed to extend the wires. Let us know if you have any issues!
Is this UL approved? How can it split a single 30A single phase circuit to (2) 15A circuits without a 15A fuse or circuit breaker for each row of outlets?
Great video, but I have a question about the chord. The WKPBN30 has 4 wires indicating it is meant for a center-tap 240v generator. I will be getting a 120v 30 amp generator which has a 3 prong outlet for the extension cord. I gather the WKPBN30 can be used for either 240v or 120v??? How does the cord work in my case? Thanks in advance.
@@jimfaulhaber2543 make sure that the converter plug is BRIDGED, there is a plug from RCA that looks like this but apparently is not bridged, so you only get power to 1 bank of 3 outlets
@2:59 it clearly appears to be a 1 inch drill bit (as marked) vs. anything larger. It seems to me that for concrete or CBS homes, a 1 inch bit would work. Am I wrong about this? Thanks.
Got this kit and like it,need a cord from generator to power panel which cost near the same as panel.If doing it again I would mount it higher on the wall, much easier to plug in the outside cord,eye level would be perfect . My generator is a 8500 so has plenty power to run anything we want to use.l suggest heavy exstenion cords for things like frig etc
@@BlueRage it's a heavy wire to connect generator to house and wired so as to fully power six extension cords. Cost the same as having an electrician buy parts and putting it together.
I want to do this. I have a 4000W generator with a TT-30R (3-prong RV-style) receptacle. I have bought a TT-30P plug, several feet of 10/4 cord, and a L14-30R receptacle . If I leave one of the hots unconnected, will I still have 120 to all 6 outlets inside the house? Thanks...
National Electric Code recommends outlets be 12 - 18" above the finished floor. It's just standard practice but the outlet can be higher (i.e. an outlet for a wall mounted television). Remember though you have to be able to reach the outlet on the outside of the house with a generator cord and this is going to make your generator's cord hang down from your house if you put it up higher. Hope this helps!
Hi and thanks for your question! The plate that the inlet is attached to does slide out, however, the cover piece would need to be removed and enough wiring would have to be available to accommodate the plate sliding out. It's not recommended that you do this as it could lead to the wear and tear on the wires.
I have an outside brick wall - what is the smallest size hole I will need to drill for the wiring? A 1" massonary bit would need a good sized hammer drill which I don't have. My drill can at best use a 1/2" masonry drill bit - can the wires fit into a smaller diameter pvc?
As long the wires can fit in through a 1/2" But, I would say better off with a 3/4 inch. On the brick, drill using smaller bits to create the hole. Then punch it out.
1-1/4" is really the proper size as the manufacturer states. It's not just for the pvc. The rear side of inside outlet panel also must fit the hole as well as the rear of the outdoor connection. Get a 1-1/4" diamond hole saw. It will cut through brick easily.
Can I use this with a small 110 volt ac 2000 watt generator? My connector at gen is standard home 3 prong outlet. If I get adapter to fit from standard extension cord to l14-30 connector on box will this work
Going to order one. My Gen has an L5-30 outlet and an L14-20 outlet. So do I need just one L14 30 cord to make the connection from the 20amp output side? Or do I convert the L5 30 amp outlet to L14 30 female? Thanks
The wires on the generator panel are too short for where I need to put it. Can the generator panel (six gang outlet) be opened so I can change out to longer wires or will I have to splice the wiring?
Hello, thank you for the question. If the wires must be extended, a junction box/outlet box enclosure should be used rather than breaking open the power panel. The size of the power panel allows it to mount to a double-gang size box in the wall, where the connections can be made to extend the wiring. You may also want to consider increasing the gauge of the wiring for the extension wires depending on how long of a run.
How do you ensure that your drill bit exits at a good place on the exterior on a flat piece of vinyl siding and not awkwardly right on the step or fold of the vinyl siding? Is it just luck of the draw where you exit? Anyone can answer please. Thanks!
Using a table measure, measure the distance from your floor up to a windows. One you know how far your floor is from your windows, go outside and measure down from that windows to see exactly where your floor is. Once you know where your floor is from the outside, you should be able to make an educated guess on where to drill your hole. This was complicated to explain. But please feel free to comment back if it didn’t make sense.
@@StupidTeenageVideos I thought I was being real smart and careful doing this, but still ended up just below one of the vinyl siding steps, actually where the pieces clipped together. I still managed to get the outer box attached, but the top cover of the box was very difficult to install back on because of interference with the siding step.
@@redmavis6136 it can be a tricky measurement to make, and mistakes do happen. Kudos to you for doing the work yourself, and I’m sure next time this experience will serve you well.
I had trouble with the inlet box cover... it apparently didn't snap completely into place and when I inserted the long screws they didn't screw into the nuts in the back of the box, and now they won't back out either. I would prefer a front mounted connector to the one provided which is facing downward. Also, I had a hell of a time with the insulation binding on the bit. update: OK, I was able to extract the 2 screws that hold the cover in place using a hacksaw to cut the screws at the back of the box and using a large pry bar to force the front of the cover up and out to expose the screws which I then removed with a channel lock plier. After removing the screws I figured out the problem... the plate that holds the inlet is curved on one side and straight on the other. The curved end needs to go towards the BACK of the box. I had installed the plate the wrong way so that the plate didn't go all the way to the back of the box. I received a set of screws and 2 nuts from Support (thank you) and now I need to figure out how to put the nuts back into the backside of the box without removing the entire box (which would get messy).
Thanks so much for the feedback! We're sorry to hear you had trouble. Everyone's installation is different and if there's anything we can do to help, please let us know :)
@@RelianceControls Thanks I called support and got some ideas on how to approach the problem... this is an unusual situation and I hope I can get it resolved this weekend. I'll let you know. update: This is really a great product. All is good now. I was able to extract the 2 screws that hold the cover in place using a hacksaw to cut the screws at the back of the box and using a large pry bar to force the front of the cover up and out to expose the screws which I then removed with a channel lock plier. After removing the screws I figured out the problem... the plate that holds the inlet is curved on one side and straight on the other. The curved end needs to go towards the BACK of the box. I had installed the plate the wrong way so that the plate didn't go all the way to the back of the box. If this is in the instructions I missed it.
@@yellow_panther This is so awesome. Thank you for following up with us and we really appreciate you writing out your solution and perspective for others to see. We'll take a look at the instructions included and see if there's any way we can add more clarity :)
@@RelianceControls it's getting cold out here, but I bought a second one and will install it this spring... that way I can run 2 sets of generators. I also got the GENMAX parallel kit which will let me run 3 x 2000w inverters in parallel with an L14-30 cable.
I installed this kit this week. The left indoor outlet indicator light is flickering. If I tap the outlet box lightly it will come on. If I plug in a device like a box fan it may stay on or go out. I haven’t driven a ground rod yet to ground the gen and I have a 4500/3500W Champion inverter gen with a floating neutral ground. A plug-in circuit tester indicates an open ground. Could this cause the light to flicker and turn on/off? The right one is always on whether or not anything is plugged in. Thank you for any input.
Hi Ricky! Sounds like there could be a loose connection that’s just barely making contact sometimes. Would you mind reaching out to tech support here so we can trouble shoot a little quicker over the phone? (800)634-6155
What is the wire size that Reliance is using? Seems small for a 240Vac, 30A (7200W) incoming circuit. I think one should be able to get 30A @ 120Vac (3600W) from the top 3 outlets inside the house and the same for the bottom 3. Should not this be #10awg copper wire thru the wall? Suggest adding the PVC glue to the kit, although I did not use, as it seems unneeded, and would make the system hard to pull apart if a fix was needed...maybe just glue one end, the outside.
Hi @tomcez - We are using #12awg copper wire to connect the inlet box to the outlet panel. The requirements for manufacturers are slightly different than what the NEC dictates for installations. As a manufacturer, we're allowed to use any wire size so long as the specified wire is capable of passing the UL temperature rise test. For further confirmation of our UL Listing, our file number for this product is E490894. In a nutshell, we're confident this product is perfectly safe to be installed and used, as long as it's in accordance with our installation instructions :) We appreciate the suggestion! Incidentally, we were including the PVC glue in our first production run. We removed it because such a small amount was needed, and no adhesive manufacturer wanted to sell us such small tubes at a reasonable price. We're sincerely grateful for your decision to purchase our products. We hope you have a wonderful holiday season!
Hi Steve (or Sheila)! This could potentially be from only one of the hot wires receiving power. Are both the red and the black wires from the wall plate securely connected to the X & Y terminals in the inlet box? Just a side note, maybe check those connections in the inlet terminal/clamps too. I’ve accidentally tightened those down on the insulation of the wire before… Needless to say, the power didn’t flow very well for me. Worst case, if ^ doesn’t help the issue, we could run through some other possibilities and make sure we get you taken care of over the phone, if that’d work for you. (800)634-6155 thanks!
My house furnace has a 100 amp breaker so I doubt there is any transfer switch I can connect to so I can run my furnace off a generator. I'm thinking the furnace has the wrong breaker. Anyways is there a kit you can buy that you can plug in a 5000 watt heater into thru the wall? I think it's a 30 amp breaker to run them.
Hello, it depends on what generator you have, and specifically which outlet on the generator that will be connected to a cord. Can you identify the largest rated outlet on your generator or inverter?
@@702couch You can probably find a cable with the RV (TT30P) on one end and the L1430C on the other end (the L1430C plugs into the inlet box). Or the L530P on one end and L1430C on the other. Or you can get a cord with both L1430P and L1430C ends, and use a short adapter cord or plug with the TT30P (or L530P) on one side and the L1430C on the other side.
Hello, the plug in method to the generator is similar but will use a male plug to connect to the generator receptacle which is female. If the plug is a locking plug then it will be inserted and turned clockwise to lock in place. Please let us know if you have any questions, thank you.
The trouble is there are many different types generators depending on their purpose. MANY receptacle styles. The generator I bought came with a four prong 10 gauge extension cord, if you gave good feedback, but there is no 4 prong receptacle on the generator. Nice. Only 3 prong and RV plug. I bought an 18" RV to 4 prong adapter. Expensive. But a must have. So I will have 30 amps on the thru the wall plugs. Here are the numbers TT-30P to L14-30R. Only good for up to 3750 watts. Amazon
@@powerengineer1 Yes that's true, thank you. Generators usually will have multiple outlets of different ratings and may not have the L1430R outlet which would match the power inlet box connection. This is just part of researching the cord connections which is necessary at some point when attempting to plug anything into any generator, whether purchasing this type of kit or an actual transfer switch. We can only reasonably include one inlet box and the L1430 type connection will allow just about any generator to be used with that outlet or a lesser rating with the proper adapter or cord setup.
I have a Westinghouse WGen5300v which has an L14-30R 120/240V Transfer Switch, could I run it at 240v to power all 6 outlets on the WKPBN30 or does it need to be switched to run on 120?
When I plug in a Receptacle tester (one red, two yellow lights) only the centre light (yellow) lights. This indicates an OPEN ground. Is this normal? The generator is a Honda EU3000is. My guess is that it is okay as the generator itself is not grounded. Just want to double check.
Because generators are NOT grounded, one of the FIRST pages in the manual likely discusses the importance of installing a grounding rod (into the actual ground near where you'll be running the generator, and then attaching a wire from that rod, to a specified "GROUNDING" point or screw on the generator. It will still operate without it, just like older houses you're bypassing the saftey benefit if NOT taking this step! Do a quick YT search..Grounding your generator, or ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=grounding+your+generator
ua-cam.com/video/TOG0qCDutWg/v-deo.html Yes if you start the video at 8 minutes 50 seconds (copied the link above, timestamped), and watch for about 3.5 minutes, this slot is about installing this PBN30 inlet box. It uses the L1430F flanged inlet preinstalled, which is a 30 amp 4 prong locking device. ----- If you are actually referring to the outdoor generator cord or inverter cord intended to "plug-in" to this PBN30 inlet box outside, then no, sorry. This particular model "WKPBN30" does not include any other accessories such as male or female plugs to build a power cord, or some length of completely assembled outdoor power cord. The PBN30 inlet box is included, along with the conduit, drill bit, fitting, gaskets, mounting hardware, and the 6 outlet prewired power panel. The contents are shown at 1 minute 40 seconds of this video. The installer or whoever is involved with this installation should be selecting the proper power cord or making one that matches the generator outlet and the PBN30 inlet (L1430F). ------- We do make a few other "packages" of this same product with 3 different cords included, one with 10 foot cord, another with a 20 foot cord, and one with a 40 foot cord. They are of course more expensive but you should be able to find some online when searching for the model numbers, to see what some of them are priced at on average online. ------- The model numbers are as follows: WKPBN30 - no separate cord included WKPBN3010 - 10 foot 30 amp cord included (L1430 plug ends) WKPBN3020 - 20 foot " " " WKPBN3040 - 40 foot " " " Thank you.
Hello, you have a lot of options to use a power cord with the L530P on one side (assuming this is the outlet on your Honda), and the L1430C on the other side (which connects to the included L1430F inlet in the inlet box). There are also adapters if one decides to use a cord with L1430 ends on both sides, so a short adapter cord or plug would have the L530P on one end and the L1430C on the other end, to connect to the cord, or to the inlet box if this 3 to 4 wire cable is long enough.
Hey Carlos! We're glad you asked! Here is some information for you, check out page 4: www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/manuals/reliance-controls-2ff2772f373adb929acfc79512753354.pdf Hope this helps, but feel free to reach out to us directly at support@reliancecontrols.com if you need anything else.
Just done with the installation, however, the upper two anchors on inner outlet wont hold the screws tight . The upper screws keep rotating and obviously the outlets box is not snug to the wall like it should be. 1/4 inch bit was used to drill the holes as recommended. Any recommendation on how to fix this?
Which is exactly the point. Generator running and cord plugged into box but no led lights on outlet until something is plugged in and whatever is plugged in won’t work.
The 6-outlet power panel is wired so that one of the 120v legs feeds the top 3 outlets, and the other 120v leg feeds the bottom 3 outlets. If you are hoping to actually power up a 240 volt circuit, such as a well pump or water heater, this kit would not be the solution since it specifically is for 120 volt cords on the inside. You would likely need a transfer switch to integrate into the system for a 240v circuit as most of them will not use a plug connection but are hard wired, thank you.
Hi Peter! We're sorry to hear you had an issue with this kit. Please reach out to us directly; we'd love to hear more about the problem and work to correct it!
Wow, that is no good! It's one thing to be without power, but to be without a coffee maker.....and a furnace on top of that, ouch! I think I will be staying away from this product.
Peter, I would like to extend our apologies for the trouble you've experienced. To be clear and expand upon our initial reply, There's a high probability this issue was not caused by our product. Typically, when appliances fail in this fashion, it's due to a voltage issue. In this case, the cause could be the loss of the neutral, or the generator is producing an inconsistent voltage that some appliances will struggle with. We would be happy to help work through the issue. In the event that our product was responsible, we will certainly work with you to remedy your losses.
@@RelianceControls I’m trying to connect my firman w01682 to Reliance Controls through the wall kit. What plug/ receptacle and cable do I need? The receptacle on firman generator is a 120 volts 30 amp 3 prong and the receptacle on Reliance Controls through the wall kit has 4 prong. I appreciate any help you can provide.
Hey @@seangholipour3884! Your best bet is to use an AC3130 adapter cord with whichever power cord suits your needs: PC3010M (10ft), PC3020M (20ft), PC3025M (25ft). Let us know! And thank you for watching :)
Victor! Are you willing to drill a hole through your wall and assemble an electrical wiring kit that's worth $30 in your home? We beg you to reconsider! Find us one for 30 bucks and we'll compare quality and safety. Thank you for watching!
Haha, I don't know what options are up to code right now, but it seems to be as simple as putting a box on the outside with some wires going in and an outlet with conduit- maybe the conduit is not even "necessary?" As for other options, there doesn't seem to be much competition here! At least from quick online "searches." Thanks for responding! I'm sure it's a great, safe, well-made, and "convenient" product, but too much for me! :-)
@@Victor-tl4dk We definitely appreciate your feedback! There may be DIY options as you pointed out. The purpose of the kit is to provide a a safe, simple to install, and cULus listed solution to a common concern! Thank you again!
*100% best **Generater.Systems** I have used. A test for hurricane prep here in Louisiana: three AC units, 5000, 5000 & 8000, 3 fridges, 2 device power setups, 4 flat screens....AND I had 40% of the power meter to spare.*
This video is very helpful. I installed this kit on a brick wall. I drilled from the outside in to avoid the excessive damage doing it in reverse will cause to the brick. It took time to get the exact location from the outside, but I wanted the hole in the centre of a brick for strength and to ensure the three screw holes would go straight into brick, not the mortar. I used sealant instead of PVC cement in case I need to open up the system to replace the plug or exterior box. To strengthen the assembly, I used nylon plugs in the 3 pre-drilled holes in the brick on the outside and used 4 toggle bolts into the wall on the inside to mount the 6 plug setup. I feel the toggle bolts will definitely make a difference securing the 6 plug setup to the interior wall, especially considering how unplugging cords from it will pull on the entire assembly each time. Wall plugs are normally mounted to a wood stud for strength, so these will be very secure. On the exterior wall, I had to widen the hole to allow the conduit fitting to recess into the wall. The conduit fitting concerns me since they now include a ring to insert in the back of the exterior box. It causes the conduit fitting to have very few threads inside the exterior box to tighten down on. There's barely a singe turn available. I hope they address this for others installing the kit. Time will tell if it holds, but its another reason I'm glad I went with silicone sealer instead of PVC cement.
Hey deejaay, thank you so much for sharing the details of your installation. If you took any pictures along the way, let us know because we'd love to see it. If you do happen to run into any issues we're here to help. Thanks for watching!
Just what I have been looking for! Thanks for this great video!!
That's great to hear! Please let us know if you have any feedback or questions while installing!
Thank you for such a great video, I followed this step by step and I installed this outlet with no problems at all.
I got this kit and with this video was a flash to install it. Thanks for this video
It's great to see this product available.
Thanks for a great video. Also the instructions in the box were very comprehensive. It was an easy install. Highly recommend.
This looks like a simple solution for short term power needs... Thanks!
I'm going to use one of these for my Skoolie. What a great invention!
That's awesome to hear, Harry! Thank you for sharing with us!
Great video with great instructions thank you
Thanks so much!
Good morning, LOVE this through the wall kit, however: my generator only has 2 each 120 volt outlets.
Q: do you make a kit that would get me through the wall for these smaller generators? Thanks.
Is there a way to extent the wires to have this installed on the second level of a house Using longer conduit and all that .
Hey, thanks for your question.
Yes, this would be done with a Wago connector, or butt connector that is UL listed. With the length you are describing it would probably be best to do the connections in a junction box. 10 AWG would be needed to extend the wires.
Let us know if you have any issues!
Great instructional video....guy sounds like he had a few though..LOL!
Well James Earl Jones hasn't returned our calls so we had to use one of our own 😔 But we're so glad you found the video helpful! Cheers Randy! 🍻
Is this UL approved? How can it split a single 30A single phase circuit to (2) 15A circuits without a 15A fuse or circuit breaker for each row of outlets?
Good point, Only fuse it as at generator is 30amps, How are we powering 15 amp circuits with 30 amp breaker?
Awesome
You're awesome!
are there video instructions on how to use a PB30 instead of a PBN30 inlet box?
I bought and installed your kit and now found out my generator uses a YGB-028 and your kit needs a L14-30. Do I have any options?
Nice..Im buying two of these...
Can this be put in a tiny house?
Great video, but I have a question about the chord. The WKPBN30 has 4 wires indicating it is meant for a center-tap 240v generator. I will be getting a 120v 30 amp generator which has a 3 prong outlet for the extension cord. I gather the WKPBN30 can be used for either 240v or 120v??? How does the cord work in my case? Thanks in advance.
Yes, it will do 120 or 240 30A. You need a converter plug like this one www.amazon.com/dp/B08F4YQLBX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
@@jimfaulhaber2543 make sure that the converter plug is BRIDGED, there is a plug from RCA that looks like this but apparently is not bridged, so you only get power to 1 bank of 3 outlets
@2:59 it clearly appears to be a 1 inch drill bit (as marked) vs. anything larger. It seems to me that for concrete or CBS homes, a 1 inch bit would work. Am I wrong about this? Thanks.
Hey Ricky! A one inch bit should work. Let us know if you have any more questions or run into any issues!
Got this kit and like it,need a cord from generator to power panel which cost near the same as panel.If doing it again I would mount it higher on the wall, much easier to plug in the outside cord,eye level would be perfect . My generator is a 8500 so has plenty power to run anything we want to use.l suggest heavy exstenion cords for things like frig etc
@@BlueRage it's a heavy wire to connect generator to house and wired so as to fully power six extension cords. Cost the same as having an electrician buy parts and putting it together.
I want to do this. I have a 4000W generator with a TT-30R (3-prong RV-style) receptacle. I have bought a TT-30P plug, several feet of 10/4 cord, and a L14-30R receptacle . If I leave one of the hots unconnected, will I still have 120 to all 6 outlets inside the house? Thanks...
I can't believe no one has replied back to your comment I'm wondering the same
How important is it that the location be about 19 inches from the floor? I would like to install mine higher if possible. Thanks for any replies!
National Electric Code recommends outlets be 12 - 18" above the finished floor. It's just standard practice but the outlet can be higher (i.e. an outlet for a wall mounted television). Remember though you have to be able to reach the outlet on the outside of the house with a generator cord and this is going to make your generator's cord hang down from your house if you put it up higher. Hope this helps!
I was going to install at 16" inside the house (was about 20" outside) and I hit a 2x4 block between the studs. Went up to 19" and it was clear!
Rather than lay on my back to plug in from the generator, does the female underneath slide out for easier access?
Hi and thanks for your question! The plate that the inlet is attached to does slide out, however, the cover piece would need to be removed and enough wiring would have to be available to accommodate the plate sliding out. It's not recommended that you do this as it could lead to the wear and tear on the wires.
I have an outside brick wall - what is the smallest size hole I will need to drill for the wiring? A 1" massonary bit would need a good sized hammer drill which I don't have. My drill can at best use a 1/2" masonry drill bit - can the wires fit into a smaller diameter pvc?
As long the wires can fit in through a 1/2" But, I would say better off with a 3/4 inch. On the brick, drill using smaller bits to create the hole. Then punch it out.
1-1/4" is really the proper size as the manufacturer states. It's not just for the pvc. The rear side of inside outlet panel also must fit the hole as well as the rear of the outdoor connection. Get a 1-1/4" diamond hole saw. It will cut through brick easily.
Can I use this with a small 110 volt ac 2000 watt generator? My connector at gen is standard home 3 prong outlet. If I get adapter to fit from standard extension cord to l14-30 connector on box will this work
Hello, if you get an adapter with the 5-15P and the L14-30C plug ends, yes with the proper adapter it will work.
Dave, I’m in your shoes! Did it work for you and can you share a link to the adapter you used? Thanks
Going to order one. My Gen has an L5-30 outlet and an L14-20 outlet.
So do I need just one L14 30 cord to make the connection from the 20amp output side? Or do I convert the L5 30 amp outlet to L14 30 female? Thanks
The wires on the generator panel are too short for where I need to put it. Can the generator panel (six gang outlet) be opened so I can change out to longer wires or will I have to splice the wiring?
Hello, thank you for the question. If the wires must be extended, a junction box/outlet box enclosure should be used rather than breaking open the power panel. The size of the power panel allows it to mount to a double-gang size box in the wall, where the connections can be made to extend the wiring. You may also want to consider increasing the gauge of the wiring for the extension wires depending on how long of a run.
How do you ensure that your drill bit exits at a good place on the exterior on a flat piece of vinyl siding and not awkwardly right on the step or fold of the vinyl siding? Is it just luck of the draw where you exit? Anyone can answer please. Thanks!
Using a table measure, measure the distance from your floor up to a windows. One you know how far your floor is from your windows, go outside and measure down from that windows to see exactly where your floor is. Once you know where your floor is from the outside, you should be able to make an educated guess on where to drill your hole. This was complicated to explain. But please feel free to comment back if it didn’t make sense.
@@StupidTeenageVideos I thought I was being real smart and careful doing this, but still ended up just below one of the vinyl siding steps, actually where the pieces clipped together. I still managed to get the outer box attached, but the top cover of the box was very difficult to install back on because of interference with the siding step.
@@redmavis6136 it can be a tricky measurement to make, and mistakes do happen. Kudos to you for doing the work yourself, and I’m sure next time this experience will serve you well.
I had trouble with the inlet box cover... it apparently didn't snap completely into place and when I inserted the long screws they didn't screw into the nuts in the back of the box, and now they won't back out either. I would prefer a front mounted connector to the one provided which is facing downward. Also, I had a hell of a time with the insulation binding on the bit.
update: OK, I was able to extract the 2 screws that hold the cover in place using a hacksaw to cut the screws at the back of the box and using a large pry bar to force the front of the cover up and out to expose the screws which I then removed with a channel lock plier. After removing the screws I figured out the problem... the plate that holds the inlet is curved on one side and straight on the other. The curved end needs to go towards the BACK of the box. I had installed the plate the wrong way so that the plate didn't go all the way to the back of the box. I received a set of screws and 2 nuts from Support (thank you) and now I need to figure out how to put the nuts back into the backside of the box without removing the entire box (which would get messy).
Thanks so much for the feedback! We're sorry to hear you had trouble. Everyone's installation is different and if there's anything we can do to help, please let us know :)
@@RelianceControls Thanks I called support and got some ideas on how to approach the problem... this is an unusual situation and I hope I can get it resolved this weekend. I'll let you know.
update: This is really a great product. All is good now. I was able to extract the 2 screws that hold the cover in place using a hacksaw to cut the screws at the back of the box and using a large pry bar to force the front of the cover up and out to expose the screws which I then removed with a channel lock plier. After removing the screws I figured out the problem... the plate that holds the inlet is curved on one side and straight on the other. The curved end needs to go towards the BACK of the box. I had installed the plate the wrong way so that the plate didn't go all the way to the back of the box. If this is in the instructions I missed it.
@@yellow_panther This is so awesome. Thank you for following up with us and we really appreciate you writing out your solution and perspective for others to see. We'll take a look at the instructions included and see if there's any way we can add more clarity :)
@@RelianceControls it's getting cold out here, but I bought a second one and will install it this spring... that way I can run 2 sets of generators. I also got the GENMAX parallel kit which will let me run 3 x 2000w inverters in parallel with an L14-30 cable.
I installed this kit this week. The left indoor outlet indicator light is flickering. If I tap the outlet box lightly it will come on. If I plug in a device like a box fan it may stay on or go out. I haven’t driven a ground rod yet to ground the gen and I have a 4500/3500W Champion inverter gen with a floating neutral ground. A plug-in circuit tester indicates an open ground. Could this cause the light to flicker and turn on/off? The right one is always on whether or not anything is plugged in. Thank you for any input.
Hi Ricky! Sounds like there could be a loose connection that’s just barely making contact sometimes. Would you mind reaching out to tech support here so we can trouble shoot a little quicker over the phone? (800)634-6155
Why does the one I got have 2 20 amp breakers?
Hello! The 20 amp breakers are added for an extra layer of safety.
What is the wire size that Reliance is using? Seems small for a 240Vac, 30A (7200W) incoming circuit. I think one should be able to get 30A @ 120Vac (3600W) from the top 3 outlets inside the house and the same for the bottom 3. Should not this be #10awg copper wire thru the wall? Suggest adding the PVC glue to the kit, although I did not use, as it seems unneeded, and would make the system hard to pull apart if a fix was needed...maybe just glue one end, the outside.
Hi @tomcez - We are using #12awg copper wire to connect the inlet box to the outlet panel. The requirements for manufacturers are slightly different than what the NEC dictates for installations. As a manufacturer, we're allowed to use any wire size so long as the specified wire is capable of passing the UL temperature rise test. For further confirmation of our UL Listing, our file number for this product is E490894.
In a nutshell, we're confident this product is perfectly safe to be installed and used, as long as it's in accordance with our installation instructions :)
We appreciate the suggestion! Incidentally, we were including the PVC glue in our first production run. We removed it because such a small amount was needed, and no adhesive manufacturer wanted to sell us such small tubes at a reasonable price.
We're sincerely grateful for your decision to purchase our products. We hope you have a wonderful holiday season!
I assume that the drill bit supplied will not be sufficient for concrete block external walls and I will have to purchase a masonry drill bit.
That is correct. I recommend a 1-1/4" diamond hole saw. That's what I used on brick and it worked great.
wouldn't it be better to first drill from the outside of the house so that you know exactly where you will mount the outside box against the siding?
If your exterior is brick, block or concrete, I would drill from the outside in. Otherwise, you'll blow out the material on the exterior.
How do I keep my furnace running? It is located in the attic
I followed the steps and I am only getting the bottom 3 outlets working. Also, only 1 of the 2 led lights is glowing. Suggestions?
Hi Steve (or Sheila)! This could potentially be from only one of the hot wires receiving power. Are both the red and the black wires from the wall plate securely connected to the X & Y terminals in the inlet box?
Just a side note, maybe check those connections in the inlet terminal/clamps too. I’ve accidentally tightened those down on the insulation of the wire before… Needless to say, the power didn’t flow very well for me.
Worst case, if ^ doesn’t help the issue, we could run through some other possibilities and make sure we get you taken care of over the phone, if that’d work for you. (800)634-6155 thanks!
@@RelianceControls one of the hot x/y was not make a good connection - clamped on insulation. Its fixed and works fine now. Thx.
Where can I purchase this model?
My house furnace has a 100 amp breaker so I doubt there is any transfer switch I can connect to so I can run my furnace off a generator. I'm thinking the furnace has the wrong breaker. Anyways is there a kit you can buy that you can plug in a 5000 watt heater into thru the wall? I think it's a 30 amp breaker to run them.
What type of furnace and how big?? There is no way it's fed from a 100 amp breaker lol
What cord do I need to buy?
Hello, it depends on what generator you have, and specifically which outlet on the generator that will be connected to a cord. Can you identify the largest rated outlet on your generator or inverter?
@@RelianceControls I have a 30amp RV outlet, and a 3 prong L5 (I believe), as well as the regular 110V
@@702couch You can probably find a cable with the RV (TT30P) on one end and the L1430C on the other end (the L1430C plugs into the inlet box). Or the L530P on one end and L1430C on the other. Or you can get a cord with both L1430P and L1430C ends, and use a short adapter cord or plug with the TT30P (or L530P) on one side and the L1430C on the other side.
@itsdatruff Hello, we don't have any flush mounted inlet box, sorry.
So you're saying we should run our generator inside the house?
Generator inside?
...Said no one ever 👀👀
I have a TT30R - 3 prong plug on my generator.
It is 30 AMP 125 volt outlet, will the WKPBN30 work with this generator.
Let me know.
Hello, yes it will work you will just need some type of adapter cord with a TT30P on one end and the L1430C on the other end.
www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-Transfer-Adapter-Compact/dp/B06XRM7PPD
I've looked for that adapter L14-30c. Only can find L1430R
they show you how to plug in 4 prong to through the wall kit but not where to plug it into generator- which i have been searching for
Hello, the plug in method to the generator is similar but will use a male plug to connect to the generator receptacle which is female. If the plug is a locking plug then it will be inserted and turned clockwise to lock in place. Please let us know if you have any questions, thank you.
The trouble is there are many different types generators depending on their purpose. MANY receptacle styles. The generator I bought came with a four prong 10 gauge extension cord, if you gave good feedback, but there is no 4 prong receptacle on the generator. Nice. Only 3 prong and RV plug. I bought an 18" RV to 4 prong adapter. Expensive. But a must have. So I will have 30 amps on the thru the wall plugs. Here are the numbers TT-30P to L14-30R. Only good for up to 3750 watts. Amazon
@@powerengineer1 Yes that's true, thank you. Generators usually will have multiple outlets of different ratings and may not have the L1430R outlet which would match the power inlet box connection. This is just part of researching the cord connections which is necessary at some point when attempting to plug anything into any generator, whether purchasing this type of kit or an actual transfer switch. We can only reasonably include one inlet box and the L1430 type connection will allow just about any generator to be used with that outlet or a lesser rating with the proper adapter or cord setup.
I have a Westinghouse WGen5300v which has an L14-30R 120/240V Transfer Switch, could I run it at 240v to power all 6 outlets on the WKPBN30 or does it need to be switched to run on 120?
Is this unit grounded properly?
Ground the generator
When I plug in a Receptacle tester (one red, two yellow lights) only the centre light (yellow) lights. This indicates an OPEN ground. Is this normal? The generator is a Honda EU3000is. My guess is that it is okay as the generator itself is not grounded. Just want to double check.
Because generators are NOT grounded, one of the FIRST pages in the manual likely discusses the importance of installing a grounding rod (into the actual ground near where you'll be running the generator, and then attaching a wire from that rod, to a specified "GROUNDING" point or screw on the generator.
It will still operate without it, just like older houses you're bypassing the saftey benefit if NOT taking this step!
Do a quick YT search..Grounding your generator, or ua-cam.com/users/results?search_query=grounding+your+generator
Just to clarify further, some gensets are grounded. I know mine is
does the 4 prong plug come with the kit come included in the kit or do you have to buy it seperate
ua-cam.com/video/TOG0qCDutWg/v-deo.html
Yes if you start the video at 8 minutes 50 seconds (copied the link above, timestamped), and watch for about 3.5 minutes, this slot is about installing this PBN30 inlet box. It uses the L1430F flanged inlet preinstalled, which is a 30 amp 4 prong locking device.
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If you are actually referring to the outdoor generator cord or inverter cord intended to "plug-in" to this PBN30 inlet box outside, then no, sorry. This particular model "WKPBN30" does not include any other accessories such as male or female plugs to build a power cord, or some length of completely assembled outdoor power cord.
The PBN30 inlet box is included, along with the conduit, drill bit, fitting, gaskets, mounting hardware, and the 6 outlet prewired power panel.
The contents are shown at 1 minute 40 seconds of this video.
The installer or whoever is involved with this installation should be selecting the proper power cord or making one that matches the generator outlet and the PBN30 inlet (L1430F).
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We do make a few other "packages" of this same product with 3 different cords included, one with 10 foot cord, another with a 20 foot cord, and one with a 40 foot cord. They are of course more expensive but you should be able to find some online when searching for the model numbers, to see what some of them are priced at on average online.
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The model numbers are as follows:
WKPBN30 - no separate cord included
WKPBN3010 - 10 foot 30 amp cord included (L1430 plug ends)
WKPBN3020 - 20 foot " " "
WKPBN3040 - 40 foot " " "
Thank you.
I have a Honda 2800i inverter with a 125v/30 amp 3 locking prong receptacle, does Reliance make a kit??
Hello, you have a lot of options to use a power cord with the L530P on one side (assuming this is the outlet on your Honda), and the L1430C on the other side (which connects to the included L1430F inlet in the inlet box). There are also adapters if one decides to use a cord with L1430 ends on both sides, so a short adapter cord or plug would have the L530P on one end and the L1430C on the other end, to connect to the cord, or to the inlet box if this 3 to 4 wire cable is long enough.
What if your outer wall is brick
Hey Carlos! We're glad you asked! Here is some information for you, check out page 4: www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/manuals/reliance-controls-2ff2772f373adb929acfc79512753354.pdf
Hope this helps, but feel free to reach out to us directly at support@reliancecontrols.com if you need anything else.
@@RelianceControls thank you. Just bought the 10 circuit transfer switch!
What size extension cords are recommended for attaching to the 6 gang outlet inside the home?
I'd suggest 12 gauge.
depends on the length of the run, 10 or 12 gauge
Just done with the installation, however, the upper two anchors on inner outlet wont hold the screws tight . The upper screws keep rotating and obviously the outlets box is not snug to the wall like it should be. 1/4 inch bit was used to drill the holes as recommended. Any recommendation on how to fix this?
Also, pvc glue was missing fortunately i had a plastic glue already.
Why would the led lights only turn on when I plug something into one of the inside outlets and what I am plugging in won’t work?
That's not what he said. The LEDs light up as soon as you energize this box, when you connect a running generator.
Which is exactly the point. Generator running and cord plugged into box but no led lights on outlet until something is plugged in and whatever is plugged in won’t work.
@@tmack485.. No no.. The lights turn on when the generator is plugged in and running.
I have the same issue. Did you ever get it figured out?
@@Blue-tl4nv check where you connected everything together in the box. I had one wire stripped just a little too much.
what are the dimensions of the outside power inlet box WKPBN30...….
Hello, the PBN30 inlet box enclosure is 6.25" x 6.25" with 4.25 depth
Really do you really have to cover up the name brand of the tape measure?
Dumb Question: I only get 120 V on the inside, right? No way to get 240 V? Thanks.
As I understand it, if your generator has the 4-prong outlet, you will have 240 in the house.
The 6-outlet power panel is wired so that one of the 120v legs feeds the top 3 outlets, and the other 120v leg feeds the bottom 3 outlets. If you are hoping to actually power up a 240 volt circuit, such as a well pump or water heater, this kit would not be the solution since it specifically is for 120 volt cords on the inside. You would likely need a transfer switch to integrate into the system for a 240v circuit as most of them will not use a plug connection but are hard wired, thank you.
Worked the first time I used it. Second time it blew my furnace and coffee maker. Afraid to use it ever again!
Hi Peter! We're sorry to hear you had an issue with this kit. Please reach out to us directly; we'd love to hear more about the problem and work to correct it!
Wow, that is no good! It's one thing to be without power, but to be without a coffee maker.....and a furnace on top of that, ouch! I think I will be staying away from this product.
Peter, I would like to extend our apologies for the trouble you've experienced. To be clear and expand upon our initial reply, There's a high probability this issue was not caused by our product.
Typically, when appliances fail in this fashion, it's due to a voltage issue. In this case, the cause could be the loss of the neutral, or the generator is producing an inconsistent voltage that some appliances will struggle with. We would be happy to help work through the issue. In the event that our product was responsible, we will certainly work with you to remedy your losses.
@@RelianceControls I’m trying to connect my firman w01682 to Reliance Controls through the wall kit. What plug/ receptacle and cable do I need? The receptacle on firman generator is a 120 volts 30 amp 3 prong and the receptacle on Reliance Controls through the wall kit has 4 prong. I appreciate any help you can provide.
Hey @@seangholipour3884! Your best bet is to use an AC3130 adapter cord with whichever power cord suits your needs: PC3010M (10ft), PC3020M (20ft), PC3025M (25ft).
Let us know! And thank you for watching :)
Nice! I like it. But $100?????????
this is worth 30 bucks at most.
:-)
Victor! Are you willing to drill a hole through your wall and assemble an electrical wiring kit that's worth $30 in your home? We beg you to reconsider!
Find us one for 30 bucks and we'll compare quality and safety. Thank you for watching!
Haha, I don't know what options are up to code right now, but it seems to be as simple as putting a box on the outside with some wires going in and an outlet with conduit- maybe the conduit is not even "necessary?"
As for other options, there doesn't seem to be much competition here! At least from quick online "searches."
Thanks for responding!
I'm sure it's a great, safe, well-made, and "convenient" product, but too much for me! :-)
@@Victor-tl4dk We definitely appreciate your feedback! There may be DIY options as you pointed out. The purpose of the kit is to provide a a safe, simple to install, and cULus listed solution to a common concern! Thank you again!
this is DEFINITELY worth the $100