I like the hidden text. One variant on this, when you want the text visible on the final part, is doing it with translucent/semi-transparent materials. You get text you can read but that doesn't alter the smoothness of the outer surface, provide ridges for dirt to collect in, etc.
Nice to see interesting ways to use inside geometry. The hidden text idea really lets me question "whats next?". The potential of 3D printing is huge, and we are just at the beginning.
I'm very new to 3d printing. I just designed and made a replacement plastic flap for my alarm keypad. Thought it would be fun to put some tet on there. I designed it with engraved?(sunken) text on the bottom face. I just set it to 0.1mm, the text is very large (40mm tall letters), so just initials on the keypad face. When printing, it looks like the first layer just skipped those areas, the next layer just printed over them. The final result is very subtle. The area of the text came out with the diagonal texture, and the rest had the flatter bed texture. If you catch the light just right you can clearly see the letters, otherwise they blend in. I also put embossed text on the top face. Slightly smaller font but still maybe 20mm tall letters. This time set to 0.2mm. Came out very nice. (My part was only 2.5mm tall so no text on the sides :)
@@blockfifteen AIUI that claim is only about raised lettering but I don't see how it applies even then. Even if there's nothing else left to print in these layers, more than 2 or 3 letters gives plenty of cooling time even on printers with abysmally bad cooling. I was more talking about the claim that breaking up the solid top fill where letters appear over it hurts surface quality, which is only the case if you're using non-monotonic top fill or a slicer that otherwise botches things.
I do custom name tags as a reward for my associates. I do the text on top but generally it is really big text. People love them I'm thinking about putting the service on Etsy.
For printing text on the bottom, would it be possible to place the text first as an object in the slicer and then adding the other object with negative space where the text goes so that the text object falls within the main object, hopefully causing the print head to move in a different pattern where the text goes?
I insist students add rev numbering for iterations. But small characters are illegible if print is not crisp and the features smear. So they can use a code system that tolerates inaccuracy. We standardize on rev codes being all numbers, the dash to separate values, a period=1, a pipe=5. e.g. .. - ... - |.. - | is read as 2-3-7-5. Even a janky print can still have the code readable. This can also be use for students to put their student ID number on prints so I know whom I am grading.
A very good video with lots of great information, I know it has been said but that hidden text is a brilliant idea. Is that something you or your company came up with? Or is it well known?
i would hereby propose the idea of a 3d printed carbon fiber ax, and what it can do. as you said, it would be really tough, and it would be nice to see exactly how though it can be
Very useful video! I missed Hanukkah for this year but I do want to get in the queue for next... I have a product that I've been working on the last few months and I'd really like to talk to one of your staff about it and how to get into production for next year. Unfortunately 2 months ago nobody and I only got a form letter back.
I've tried text on the bottom of the print many times. It is not reliable at all, and I'm using a Bambu X1. If you can get really good repeatable bed adhesion you'll get better results but still the thick outline of the text looks bad... but maybe that can be changed in slicer settings?
They custom build their printers. And they are not interested in sharing information about the custom printers they've built. (based on watching other videos)
For a lot of applications this isnt needed. The text tool in Prusa slicer does a really good job of adding text to objects. you dont even need to use the slicer for printing. just open stl, add text then export the stl file.
I have to disagree with the bottom text. With the first layer accuracy of my prusas or bambus i just do a single .25mm layer of text and its a really clean way of putting part numbers etc.
I think there should be a separation between what's possible and what's desirable. Text on the bottom can often make a lot of small island and sharp corner that can lift up. This is generally fine if you can soberly check your first layer but is probably highly annoying if you need to deal with 100's at a time. It can be done, it probably will look good, it will also probably be quite annoying
With our home printers there's additional leeway for more "extreme" things like that. Having one slightly frustrating print for us would be a nightmare in a 100+ printer farm. I like Slant 3D's videos as they often address common 3D printing themes but at the same time, sometimes the context of a particular concept is squarely within the realm of print farming and may not necessarily apply to the hobbyist.
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The hidden text idea is extremely cool!
Glad you like it
I like the hidden text. One variant on this, when you want the text visible on the final part, is doing it with translucent/semi-transparent materials. You get text you can read but that doesn't alter the smoothness of the outer surface, provide ridges for dirt to collect in, etc.
The hidden text just blew my mind! Thanks for this brilliant idea!
Thanks for watching
The hidden text is mind blowing... thanks for sharing!
Nice to see interesting ways to use inside geometry. The hidden text idea really lets me question "whats next?". The potential of 3D printing is huge, and we are just at the beginning.
Good point!
Hadn’t thought of, or seen, hidden text. Interesting 🤔
Same here !!!
It is a great solution for custom branding and identification
I'll probably start looking into how i can get version numbers inside my parts. That way I can keep track of prototypes
0:44 that ringing though
love this - trying to learn how to create embossed text with 5-10 degree draft to add to pattern for molding - sooooo hard
Thanks for the internal text tip.
A good way to do it is also to use texts carved with 45° sides if u put it on vertical side walls to avoid overhangs. Nice vid.
I'm very new to 3d printing. I just designed and made a replacement plastic flap for my alarm keypad. Thought it would be fun to put some tet on there. I designed it with engraved?(sunken) text on the bottom face. I just set it to 0.1mm, the text is very large (40mm tall letters), so just initials on the keypad face.
When printing, it looks like the first layer just skipped those areas, the next layer just printed over them. The final result is very subtle. The area of the text came out with the diagonal texture, and the rest had the flatter bed texture. If you catch the light just right you can clearly see the letters, otherwise they blend in.
I also put embossed text on the top face. Slightly smaller font but still maybe 20mm tall letters. This time set to 0.2mm. Came out very nice.
(My part was only 2.5mm tall so no text on the sides :)
That hidden text trick is super cool. Thanks for sharing!
You bet!
I like the ideas that only 3d printing can do, like the hidden text.
It is really cool
Hidden text inside nailed it
Great tips keep em coming! Thank-you
Can you put text on a surface where you use randomness for texture without screwing up the text?
Text on top comes out fine with modern slicing and a decently dialed in printer.
I would agree, I think he means for manufacturing reliability
Heat concentraction is a problem with physics and design of the 3d model not with software
@@slant3d could you explain how heat concentration applies?
@@blockfifteen AIUI that claim is only about raised lettering but I don't see how it applies even then. Even if there's nothing else left to print in these layers, more than 2 or 3 letters gives plenty of cooling time even on printers with abysmally bad cooling.
I was more talking about the claim that breaking up the solid top fill where letters appear over it hurts surface quality, which is only the case if you're using non-monotonic top fill or a slicer that otherwise botches things.
I do custom name tags as a reward for my associates. I do the text on top but generally it is really big text. People love them I'm thinking about putting the service on Etsy.
A good solution that I use to do text on the side and avoid excessive overhangs or supports is to add fillets to the edges of all the letters
To clarify, embossing is text outside, engraving is text inside.
You flip-flopped them :)
Very nice!
Will Raft improve text/surface quality at the bottom side?
For printing text on the bottom, would it be possible to place the text first as an object in the slicer and then adding the other object with negative space where the text goes so that the text object falls within the main object, hopefully causing the print head to move in a different pattern where the text goes?
I insist students add rev numbering for iterations. But small characters are illegible if print is not crisp and the features smear. So they can use a code system that tolerates inaccuracy. We standardize on rev codes being all numbers, the dash to separate values, a period=1, a pipe=5. e.g. .. - ... - |.. - | is read as 2-3-7-5. Even a janky print can still have the code readable. This can also be use for students to put their student ID number on prints so I know whom I am grading.
A very good video with lots of great information, I know it has been said but that hidden text is a brilliant idea. Is that something you or your company came up with? Or is it well known?
5:00 Text on the bottom also isn't gonna do too well if the first layer is too high SoonerLater
i would hereby propose the idea of a 3d printed carbon fiber ax, and what it can do. as you said, it would be really tough, and it would be nice to see exactly how though it can be
Very useful video! I missed Hanukkah for this year but I do want to get in the queue for next... I have a product that I've been working on the last few months and I'd really like to talk to one of your staff about it and how to get into production for next year. Unfortunately 2 months ago nobody and I only got a form letter back.
You Open lots of opportunities to mass production 3d printing
It's called debossed when it's what you call engraved. Engraving is when it's literally cut/carved.
I've tried text on the bottom of the print many times. It is not reliable at all, and I'm using a Bambu X1.
If you can get really good repeatable bed adhesion you'll get better results but still the thick outline of the text looks bad... but maybe that can be changed in slicer settings?
What type of 3D Printers dou you have in your Farm?
They custom build their printers. And they are not interested in sharing information about the custom printers they've built. (based on watching other videos)
Where can we get that nifty test print cube (more like a small tower) you are always showing in your videos?
For a lot of applications this isnt needed. The text tool in Prusa slicer does a really good job of adding text to objects. you dont even need to use the slicer for printing. just open stl, add text then export the stl file.
I have to disagree with the bottom text. With the first layer accuracy of my prusas or bambus i just do a single .25mm layer of text and its a really clean way of putting part numbers etc.
In mass production it is not viable
@@slant3d How does Prusa get away with it on their printed printer parts? Do they just accept a higher defect rate?
And they design the text appropriately for the first layer
I think there should be a separation between what's possible and what's desirable. Text on the bottom can often make a lot of small island and sharp corner that can lift up. This is generally fine if you can soberly check your first layer but is probably highly annoying if you need to deal with 100's at a time. It can be done, it probably will look good, it will also probably be quite annoying
With our home printers there's additional leeway for more "extreme" things like that. Having one slightly frustrating print for us would be a nightmare in a 100+ printer farm. I like Slant 3D's videos as they often address common 3D printing themes but at the same time, sometimes the context of a particular concept is squarely within the realm of print farming and may not necessarily apply to the hobbyist.
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i feel like im going to fall out of my chair watching your head
Could you make the benchmark part (ua-cam.com/video/TH82TSjI67I/v-deo.html) available? Would be nice to have an alternative to benchy.
please talk little bit slow.
No matter what I use to build models I always use Blender for text. I have never had bad text when using it and swear by it!
How does that make a difference since you have to slice it before you print it?