Diesel to Electric Outboard Motor Conversion - Cape Dory 36 Refit Part 2
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- We remove the diesel engine and build a custom outboard well locker in the enlarged lazarette to hold an ePropulsion Navy EVO 6.0 electric outboard motor. The electric motor can be swapped out for a Tohatsu 9.8HP gas motor if longer range is needed for extended trips up the east coast ICW or transiting the Panama Canal or as backup in case any of the components of the electric system fail when out cruising away from replacement parts. This system is not a comparable replacement for the ample propulsion of a large diesel engine. It is a low-powered, short-range alternative that requires a higher level of patience and seamanship skills. The 6kw electric outboard is advertised as 10hp gas equivalent but in case it doesn't live up to expectations or proves unreliable we have the gas outboard option. And since the electric motor's large 48 volt battery can directly charge the smaller 12 volt house battery, it provides enlarged battery capacity even when the gas motor is installed.
We also converted from wheel steering to a simple tiller. We reversed the slope of the cockpit footwell so that it drains aft above the waterline, which eliminates two more seacocks. And we added 210 lbs of lead ballast to the bilge to compensate for loss of weight from the inboard diesel.
People often ask me if a tilting outboard well is suitable for their particular boat. Unfortunately, the geometry of most boats won’t allow it. The boat needs to have a large lazarette locker, an overhanging transom, and certain minimum dimensions between the transom and the tiller head strap on top the rudder shaft. Or if you have wheel steering, suitable clearance between transom and emergency tiller. You can read more about my outboard well design at: atomvoyages.co...
Update: 12 July 2023 Here is the latest video showing the results of initial sea trials with both motors: • Electric VS Gas Outboa...
The absolute focus on simplicity combined with meticulous craftsmanship is inspiring. Thanks as always for documenting and sharing your work
Great job, looks great. Quiet, more room, less trouble. Can’t wait to see the sea trials.
The quality of your work is inspirational James. Thanks again for sharing.
Outstanding James. Not a bit surprised to see such a well thought out and superbly executed conversion. The new owner now has a vastly less complicated boat with dramatically improved performance under sail. In low speed maneuvering in the marina the boat’s maneuverability is significantly enhanced.
You, Sir, are an absolute wizard!! Brilliant conversion! Thanks for sharing the magic.
This dude and Sam Holmes not afraid to cut holes in boats. LOL
You are indeed drunk if you think that clown Sam, and James have anything in common,
@@junk_rig_sailor1698 agreed but aww lol
That time Sam started carelessly cutting holes to drain water mid passage is hilarious
Great job as always. 1 little editing tip: when inserting clips with power tools on, set the volume to 0.1!
You make it look so easy!
High quality stuff. Im learning alot watching your videos.
Thank you
well done. You have some very clever ideas and obviously a lot of experience with boats.
Awesome conversion, I like the options with the two outboards.
Wow, this the largest conversion I’ve seen. Look forward to seeing how it works out.
I am always amazed the amount of weight the boom and mast can hold.
The attention to detail is simply outstanding, almost to the point of breathtaking! I'd be sorely tempted to do something similar with my Nor'West 33 but have serious doubts as I look at the level of a craftsman and shipwright it takes to pull it off. Not a solution for everyone, but for those it would be I've never seen better.
Interesting take. Classy work.
As always, great work. I wish manufacturers could hit this bar.
Excellent job from a real master. Well done. Congrats!
You sure do nice work. I will be interested to see how sea trails go. With two or three people in the cockpit, some wave action and the tendency for the stern to squat down, I believe there will be a lot of water in the motor bay.
With the boat heavily loaded there will still be a few inches of clearance from hull cutout to hull waterline. At 5-6 knots the waterline will be approx at the hull cutout. With coverboards in place to stop surging waves it should be OK as it has been on many other boats I've done this way, including one of my Alberg 30s that is close to completing a circumnavigation.
Great work!
Love this conversion, meticulously thought out and superb execution. My significant sailing is probably well past now, but from what I see on UA-cam, 2 of the major problems people have with older boats are diesel engines and wheel steering. Will the 9.8 outboard have a lifting tackle for changing over outboards. I'm assuming that with the regen the electric motor will mostly be down when sailing. What sort of sailing speed is needed for the regen and do you have any idea of the output? Eliminating as many seacocks and skin fittings as possible is always a good idea. I like how you compensated the weight, I'm sure many wouldn't think of this till it was in the water.
I'd be interested to know approx how many man has were spent on this.
Cheers from Oz.
Ps my brother had an Alberg 37 in the late 80s early 90s, lovely boat but a cow to reverse lol.
We added a solar arch over the outboard after shooting this video. The boom vang attaches to it to lift motors in and out. It's still awkward and difficult to do alone and not something he'll want to do frequently but it is possible alone in flat water and it's easy for two people. According to the brochure the regen starts to put out about 100w around 5 knots and 400-500w around 7 knots. His other electric needs are modest so the 400w of solar he has is more than enough in most situations. He only needs to deploy the motor for regen after depleting the 48v battery from motoring. I'll post a video later after sea trials.
Many thanks for taking the time to reply.
You do great work!
Fantastic project ! very impressive.
Simple and excellent --- thanks for sharing
Hope you can post a report on how well this all works. What is a good cruising speed with the electric outboard and what is it range. Also it would be interesting to know how regen does. And where you would add a second E175 battery if required.
I do hope to cover all those points after sea trials in about 8 weeks. The space for a second E175 battery has been considered. We can tilt both batteries on their sides. The owner is waiting to see how well it works before investing in another battery.
Hi James. Have you ever compared having a back up outboard vs having a small generator to power your electric outboard?
The small portable gas generators have limited output and the battery chargers they power can only move a small boat about 3 knots in a calm and less for this size boat. Also, they are awkward to use underway. Better than nothing but would be a poor substitute for an outboard motor for most people.
That's really very clever! A much better setup than a diesel engine.
More than one sailboat has replaced that awful diesel with a 4-stoke outboard. I like the four blade prop on the Tohatsu.
How much did the 200 lbs. of lead cost? Did anyone want the diesel ?
What the critics do not understand is that with the low lead ballast replacing the engine and with the prop apperature filled in, the boat will sail better and can do without the inboard diesel.
Wow top notch...
Beautiful work James. If I ever decide to get another large sailboat, I will definately go for this arrangement. My current project doesn't require that much re-engineering. But I've always liked this redesign that you've become famous for. It's so well thought out and executed.
A quick question though, do you have a preference for a kick up rudder manufacturer? I could make one myself, but in the interest of research, I'm looking for cost estimates of companies who sell the kits. I'm refitting a Balboa 26' and the tiler head and rudder assembly are a one piece unit that drops into the cockpit floor. Previously, the outboard was on the center of the transom, but I am wanting to move the tiller and rudder assembly there and make it a kick up rudder, with the outboard to port and swim ladder on starboard. A Code Catalina 25' kickup rudder is probably the closest off the shelf rudder kit that I have found so far. This boat has a swing keel that I am eliminating. I am adding short twin bilge keels and filling the old keel trunk in to keep the weight the same and the draft the same as the original with the keel fully retracted in the upright position. I want to be able to launch, retrieve and transport on a flat trailer and be able to beach flat for drying out. I'm building a Great Loop boat, a Camp Cruiser with extended range in mind for 2 people. Even the sail rig is getting revamped with a round spreaderless mast and a Wharram style Bird Wing Sail. It's a 2-3 year project for me and I'm doing it here at my home, which meant first to build a building to do it in, thanks to Ohio winters. I just enjoy cutting and refitting old boats and making them slightly better really. There are lots of other little details, as I'm sure you are aware.
I'm not familiar with best source for a hinged transom mount rudder, but the Catalina 25 or similar off the shelf type is probably good if robust enough for your boat. I'd like to hear more about your project as it progresses since I also have an interest in a small bilge keel boat similar to some of the Westerly type designs from the UK. I'm currently refitting a Sandpiper 32 with twin swing bilge keels for a client. I've been thinking about options for modifying a swing keel or centerboard as you are doing and wonder about the design and construction of it. I learned with my Corsair F24 and F27 if the boat has a centerboard with draft under around 2 feet then best to have a cassette type vertically retracting rudder that can also hinge back if you hit something because a standard hinged rudders don't steer well when swung aft for shallow waters. It adds cost and complexity though and probably no advantage since fixed bilge keels probably have enough draft that they allow you to keep the rudder down for steerage in shallow water.
Maybe you can shore your project and photos with us on Plastic Classic Forum. I'm a moderator and answer questions there. Otherwise, contact me for further discussion at atomvoyages.com
plasticclassicforum.com/forum/
Or do you have a blog somewhere I can check out?
@atomvoyager I sent you a reply but for some reason it did not post. I have not been having a lot of luck with YT lately. I will try to contact you through the website that you referenced. Thank you James.
Very good
Thanks
Brilliant job. I've got two of the Navy 6.0 going into my Catalac 9M. Could you tell me what you used to attach the lifting line to the motor, the white strap? It's something I haven't worked out yet. Where on the motor is it positioned?
I experimented using lines, straps, hose clamps and heavy-duty nylon cable ties but in the end the best thing I found was to tie a loop of 1/4" double braid polyester line around the shaft and lock it in place about an inch or two above resting waterline with a bead of thickened epoxy that got painted over. If the line ever chafes through we can tie another line under it and keep the old epoxy in place to stop it sliding up. Another option would be to install a stainless steel eye strap but I didn't want to tap bolts into the shaft.
@@atomvoyager thanks, that was a great idea. Any chance you have a picture of it online somewhere, or could email one?
@@SailingElectra You can email me at the contact button at atomvoyages.com and I'll send you a photo.
Are there plans for a windvane? Does the CD36 transom pose any additional challenges to place a vane and OB?
Yes we have a Monitor windvane going on this boat. The monitor 4-point mount fits fine around the retracted motor. Windvanes with one large center mount like the Windpilot Pacific would not fit unless you made a custom adapter bracket.
Oh this is cool. Been looking at the 6.0 pod drives from Eprop for my 33 ft prout cat.
You think the 6.0 will have enough power to push the Cape dory's 16,000lb? Everyone's been telling me I need twin 6.0s for push 10,000lb boat minimium.
If this can comfortably push the cape dory you'd think I could get away with having twin 3.0 pod drives.
You will need twin 6.0 motors if you are trying to get the amount of thrust most people want. You, like the owner of this CD36, might find less thrust is acceptable to your needs if you have the patience and seamanship skills to handle a low-powered boat that cannot be motored in very rough waters. But I would probably not get the 3.0 pods because your boat has a lot of windage and it sounds like you are uncertain of how much thrust you are going to want. In our case, I have already confirmed that the 9.8hp Tohatsu will propel this boat at over 5.25 knots in a calm, so as long as the 6.0 (which is rated as 10hp equivalent) can make close to 5k then that is what the owner will find that acceptable. Most people will want more thrust to power into wind and waves so they won't be inconvenienced by sailing.
@@atomvoyager Thanks for the reply. I'm still weighting out the pros and cons of going for an electric refit.
I want one!
Amazing job as always.
I have a few questions.
Have you done an electric drive yet replacing the engine directly, using the prop shaft?
Less work and avoids chopping holes.
Another thing I’d like to see is a transom mounted electric. Also, less fab work and moving it aft and retaining steering of the OB helps with one of a full keel boats Achilles heels, reverse maneuvering.
Also, a light electric would be easy to stow completely when off shore.
We considered an electric inboard but decided against because the prop aperture cutout in the hull and rudder appeared to be too small for the large 10kw motor prop, the extra cost, regen issues such as requiring a particular prop, not wanting another below waterline hole, and preferring not to have the drag and fouling issues of a permanent prop in the water. I do understand that for most people who want EP, then an electric inboard is their most reasonable option.
The reason we go to the trouble of building an outboard well is because of it's many obvious advantages over a transom hung motor. We have side thrust as shown in the video so having a hard to reach motor on the transom is no advantage unless you have some remote steering system which has it's own issues. But again, an outboard well is not suitable to most boats and their owners budget, so a transom mount is what they might end up with.
There is no comparable lightweight electric outboard that will push this boat at 5 knots so not practical to relocate it frequently.
@@atomvoyager thanks for the quick reply. Yeah, I see how the limited prop clearance with a keel hung rudder makes going to a larger prop a lot of work.
And yes, a transom mount OB would need remote steering and removing and stowing on a boat that needed frequent OB use would make stowing it impractical. I do think the idea might have merit for a sailor who had very little need for OB use and was also resigned to the fact that he wouldn't get 5 knots out of it.
As an example I would point to Sam Holmes and his latest adventure with his free 29 fter. The model escapes me at the moment, but he gets by with what is little more than an electric trolling motor.
Of course, Sam isn't your normal sailor! He and you are two of my youtube sailor heroes!!!
Keep up the great work.
Here is the follow-up video of initial sea trials with both motors: ua-cam.com/video/OVXGSDtYFhw/v-deo.html
I thought about E propulsion until I saw lithium explode and burn when it got wet. I like the option of E or Gas. I would go with AGM battery and solar + maybe wind generator.
If that is something you worry about, then don't use lithium batteries - problem solved.
LiFePo doesn't do that.
This is not Lithium. This is LiFPo.
Rather than lead ballast, why not use batteries?
2 birds with one stone.
We did add 235 lbs of batteries on the shelf as seen in the video. The lead ballast is placed far lower than any batteries could be installed so it benefits the sailing ability of the boat at the same time as it keeps her on her lines. But if the boat doesn't benefit enough from the extra ballast and you can balance it out with extra batteries only, then that's fine too.
@@atomvoyager I understand that. Would it have been possible to put the batteries down in that area or would the risk of salt water battery contact be too high?
@@petec9686 I would not put batteries low in the bilge because eventually they would be damaged by bilge water. Also, the lowest part of the bilge is narrow and will be crowded with two bilge pumps.
@@atomvoyager yeah, kind of what I figured. SLA batteries need water. Just not bilge water.
don;t go to far from shore. or in heavy weather that motor won't push the boat to windward
got a lot of experience with an outboard on a cape dory 36?
Apparently you don’t know the qualifications of the guy on the video?
Don't go offshore? So if you're to be believed, he should hang around near rocks in a boat which can't motor into wind?
Now I would have assumed the complete opposite. I would have assumed getting further away from the rocks is the safest place to be. Maybe you like parking on rocks, I don't.