Good practice to try and use 1 nut and 2 cams per anchor so you save a cam each time for the next pitch. Also try to avoid using multiple of the same size cam in any given anchor so you still have that size available when you continue up.
@@skillsforclimbing Agreed on nuts being slower, both putting in and removing, even for more experienced climbers and especially novices. Also some people prefer only cams for anchors because they are more multi-directional than nuts. But every time I find a good nut placement it's doubly satisfying as it feels bomber and also saves a cam for later.
What sizes are the small offsets you typically bring? They look like aliens, hard to tell the colors. I have a BD Z4 0.2/0.3 offset that gets a lot of use, but I'm considering picking up a couple more offset sizes.
Thanks for the question @allenshipman. Here is my current favorite cordalete material. Blue Water Ropes 5mm Titan Cord (HMPE/Dyneema core, nylon sheath), 6 meter/20ft length: www.bluewaterropes.com/product/titan-cord-with-hmpe-5mm/
Amazingly small set of nuts. I would bring more nuts and some tri cams. And where are the hexes? Nothing beats a bomber hex or nut. More passive gear could cut back on the cams and give more options throughout the pitch and at the anchor.
So many cams and so little passive pro. Unless you're climbing in Indian Creek I don't see the point in spending so much money on a first rack. I place passive pro maybe 75% of the time, and would be perfectly happy with a good anchor made of passive protection. (Caveat: I am British)
Thanks for the comment @fuzzybee3788! Likely there is a bit of a cultural and generational preference on this one. When I first started trad climbing I had a fair amount of passive pro as well- mostly because the cost was much lower and I bought it used from a friend. It did work fine for me on lower-angle cracks, but it was slow and difficult to place on steeper terrain (as a beginner especially) and resulted in some pretty questionable placements and some pretty terrifying leads. Certainly that happens with cams as well, but generally I find they are faster to place and they are easier for beginners to get good placements that will hold in a fall even if they aren't perfect (especially here in the States where we have lots of parallel cracks in our popular trad destinations). For beginner climbers, in particular, accidents are common, and many want to reduce the probability of having an accident even if it costs a chunk more for their first rack. But not everyone has that kind of money to spend! I know I didn't. No right or wrong on this one!
Good practice to try and use 1 nut and 2 cams per anchor so you save a cam each time for the next pitch. Also try to avoid using multiple of the same size cam in any given anchor so you still have that size available when you continue up.
@@skillsforclimbing Agreed on nuts being slower, both putting in and removing, even for more experienced climbers and especially novices. Also some people prefer only cams for anchors because they are more multi-directional than nuts. But every time I find a good nut placement it's doubly satisfying as it feels bomber and also saves a cam for later.
What sizes are the small offsets you typically bring? They look like aliens, hard to tell the colors. I have a BD Z4 0.2/0.3 offset that gets a lot of use, but I'm considering picking up a couple more offset sizes.
What size cordelette and what length?
Thanks for the question @allenshipman. Here is my current favorite cordalete material. Blue Water Ropes 5mm Titan Cord (HMPE/Dyneema core, nylon sheath), 6 meter/20ft length:
www.bluewaterropes.com/product/titan-cord-with-hmpe-5mm/
Amazingly small set of nuts. I would bring more nuts and some tri cams. And where are the hexes? Nothing beats a bomber hex or nut. More passive gear could cut back on the cams and give more options throughout the pitch and at the anchor.
I'm also a fan of a bomber hex (Rockcentrics), and love my Tricams too. Those who don't like them, don't understand them. lol
So many cams and so little passive pro. Unless you're climbing in Indian Creek I don't see the point in spending so much money on a first rack. I place passive pro maybe 75% of the time, and would be perfectly happy with a good anchor made of passive protection. (Caveat: I am British)
Thanks for the comment @fuzzybee3788! Likely there is a bit of a cultural and generational preference on this one. When I first started trad climbing I had a fair amount of passive pro as well- mostly because the cost was much lower and I bought it used from a friend. It did work fine for me on lower-angle cracks, but it was slow and difficult to place on steeper terrain (as a beginner especially) and resulted in some pretty questionable placements and some pretty terrifying leads. Certainly that happens with cams as well, but generally I find they are faster to place and they are easier for beginners to get good placements that will hold in a fall even if they aren't perfect (especially here in the States where we have lots of parallel cracks in our popular trad destinations). For beginner climbers, in particular, accidents are common, and many want to reduce the probability of having an accident even if it costs a chunk more for their first rack. But not everyone has that kind of money to spend! I know I didn't. No right or wrong on this one!