2012 AUDI A7 | NO BACKUP CAMERA OPERATION | PARK ASSIST LIGHT BLINKS | MULTIPLE FAILURES | B107C14
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- Опубліковано 12 жов 2024
- Thank you all for tuning in to Super Mario Diagnostics!
Today we are diagnosing a no backup camera operation concern. We'll visit a tool that can prevent misdiagnosis.
I hope you all enjoy, like, share, comment and subscribe!
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I had never thought that bidirectional control would not force ECU to send a signal without a proper resistence. Good job Mario. Thank you.
I think the short caused the speaker to fail. Another great step by step repair and diagnosis. Understanding how these systems operate (like the resistance needing to be proper before the ecm will send the signal) is a critical factor in proper diagnosis.
Hey omhs law resistance matters for proper circuits is the ecm not get the proper resistance it will trip a code
Aguevos serote
Mistakes are good when they show us that it happens, but they can be eliminated with a bit more testing! Thanks again for the video!
Tough diag for sure; those bias voltages could make anybody think that there is an issue with the module itself. Thanks for sharing Mario.
Now that was very interesting, thanks for the lesson and keep up the good work.
Great diag Mario! That's some monitor you have on your diag cart! That thing is huge and I love it!
Live and learn just like you said it. Its hard to figure out every single car that comes our way. Hey at least you are trying every possible route. I have a power probe 3 and was waiting for it to stop working to upgrade. This thing wont break at all maybe i need to upgrade already.
Wow German logic strikes again! Bad speaker? We'll disable your backup cam haha
That driver test on the PP4 is pretty slick! As an alternative , I would have measured the resistance of the front speaker from the module and substitute it for the rear speaker with a variable resistor or decade box. One question: how was the voltage 2.6V at the speaker and the "circuit test" spikes at the module? Speakers don't produce their own voltage... 🤔
Now i know it's a 50 ohm speaker 😆
Those 2.6 at the speaker unplugged pigtail, and the 0.04 can only mean that there is an open, and a short to 2.6v on the pigtail side. Thanks for watching!
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics open and short and bad speaker all at the same time?? Did you find where the short and open was? 😮
No, ran an overlay
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics lol good enough fix for the Eurotrash 👌😝
Almost all failure modes are discussed in depth with regards to the lowest common denominator, aka the most clueless, dumb person, in order to 1. protect said individual from harm resulting from their own shortcomings and 2. protect the company from a lawsuit from said individual when they fail to take responsibility for their own shortcomings.
I can understand how a failure of the speaker(s) system could result in a person who once is conditioned by the the audible cues of the backup alert system fail to recognize an object without the audible cues. This is called response conditioning base on the work of Dr. Ivan Pavlov
Definitely Love the Power Probe😍
Indeed it is the tool, that helps in these situations, I'm soo addicted to it can't work without it😍
Thanks for sharing Bro, Good Info here to keep at the back of mind, Stay Safe👍
Awesome video Mario! I have a question, that driver test, can it be used on both low and high side drivers? I had used it only for low side never attempted high side. Thanks and keep up the great work
Will defenetly start playing with that function on my poweprobe . Thanks for the info . 👍
I understood this diag and repair because I'm in the biz, but you were all over the place on this. Start with a description of the fault, explain the operation of the system/circui (including a look at wiring diagram), then go to the vehicle and explain what you're testing and why. An organized mind makes for an organized repair. You got there however, so great job.
Exactly what i did. The concern was recreated, the code was shown, the diagram was shown, the setup was explained, and the proof of concept was explained as to why a driver test was necessary at both the module and at the pigtail end, then when the wiring issue was addressed, the speaker was also no good
Great diagnostic Common problem on Audi.
Awesome diag, thanks dude. My snap-on (pwr probe made) tester has been such an unreliable pos I always end up using my PP3 backup while it's in repair. I'm picking up the PP4 for sure (was researching it for a while). Also it was a great lesson and how to use the different features of a tool to help find a problem. I can have the latest and greatest diagnostic tool, but if I only use it like a test light, what's the point? I would love to know what battery maintainer you use on a car like that?
Thanks George. I'm using the Schumacher inc100
Hey Super Mario
Really appreciate what your doing it's helping me be a better technician keep up the awesome work. You are right we learn everyday.
I have a question about the pull up resister. If I do not have a power probe 4 (actually have the probe 3 with 5 volt reference adapter) how can I simulate the correct resistant for circuit to function for testing?
Hey super mario diagnostics would you be willing to review the autel im608 scanner that you use I've been in the market for buying a scanner that can program keys and be bi directional. Thanks 👍. And keep up the good work
I found for me the hardest part of diaging is info and the right useful info. I just wish it would be right and straight to the point. I would pick that over a flow chart anyday. When I started out I've almost got burnt a few times over lack of info. A couple times the computer would intentionally kill the voltage and even if you bidirectional control it and it states it's on the control module still wont turn it on. No where in the flow chart, code description said that. I just hate having to spend tons of time looking for the right information if found. Sorry for the rant but I had a hard time with a back up camera the other day because of bad info. It Had wrong wire colors, wrong connector location. I looked a year before and after just to make sure. I had to tear apart the dash because they only had a aftermarket diagram and it didn't show the other connection under the back seat. So after ripping the dash apart finding it was a broken wire. I traced the wire to under the backseat it was a corroded connector. I purposely looked for another connector just to split it in half and test at the easiest location. I would of saved a hr and a half easily. I was actually thinking it might be a connection issue because of 2 child seats in the back. I just thought it was a hard wire from A to B because of the diagram.
I got into automotive repair because diagnostics drew me in. I got a job a few months ago as an entry level tech, and they let me do diags. What you said is one of the reasons why I'm leaving my short-lived career as a tech. I get so pissed off when I have to reverse engineer things & pull out 20 test leads...all because system operation can't be found in service info! That's just f'ed up. A lot of time is wasted & sometimes you actually end up with more questions than answers, and more time is wasted trying to tie everything together. The pay and the headaches is not worth it.
@@JJ-rs6qt This is true, we all need youtube channels and start fighting the auto industry for not supplying tech info. This what Mario showed here, will help a lot of headaches that you'd otherwise have if you didn't know lol
I wish i get this good one day thanks man for the great video
Nice diagnosing pal.
great video! could be nice if you could turn on the reverse camera from the diagnostics tool :)
Great video and probably bad wire caused speaker to fail
Anyway best wishes from across the pond 🇬🇧
Can You explain how this drive test works? Best regards
We change them(speakers) a lot.Mainly on VAG group but also on newer Fords.The speakers are same with slightly diffirent plug.Couse of problem is vibration.Wires from pins to the speaker coil usualy are broken.Sometimes you can solder them back and they are like new.New speaker from dealer cost 10 bucks here and china special half of that.Only very cheap customers and used car dealers buy china.:)
Man I was confused about power probe test. I’m a simple man turn speaker on bidirectional does it work? Jump connector with paper clip check resistance from module should have it. Speaker apply power/ground to?
It's a pwm signal to the speaker, not a straight forward 12v. There was no resistance pid for it. Code wouldn't have changed since it was an open, and a short to 2.95 at the pigtail. That tells us it's a harness problem yes. But it won't tell us if the pwm driver is good.
The driver test pulls up the resistance required by the module in order to actuate the the transistor.
I don't know that it's a great idea to just short a driver straight to ground with no load in place(we don't know which driver will have this feature where a resistance will be required in order to activate, since they don't privy us to that information). We also don't know what kind of duty cycle to expect, so a paperclip test can actually fry the driver during testing
Very good job, can you explain why was 2.94 volts at speaker and 0 volts at module. Was it some kind short to power on that wire
Yes, i believe it is
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics Thanks, you always provide us with new technology
So how do you think the wire in the harness went bad?
How does that driver work on the module, does it send out a power or ground, then what does the power probe do, ie add a power or ground,
Hey buddy i own a 2013 vw passat tdi it did turn off on my wile i was driving now it won’t start at all i have 2 codes P0670 and P0628 if you have any suggestions i would really appreciate it thank you
Measure resistance on speaker as well to make sure it was applying the needed “resistance”.
What is the amount of resistance needed in order to allow its operation?
Hey brother what's name of the little scope and how much bye the way nice video thanks sir
The uscope from aeswave.com
Great video
I have issue on Q7 parking sensors work beeping sound works so speaker is good but no camera at all when in reverse 😢
Great video like Always 👍 thank you
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
It was useful! Excellent sir!
My backup cam wasn't activating due to the front parking speaker. I jumpered the connector and that allowed the backup cam to function until I acquired a replacement speaker.
Not a great idea to short out a speaker output. But nice find. The video is meant to show how to test these components. Not meant to necessarily jump to a conclusion as to what the fault is
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics understood, just sharing my experience with it
Thanks for sharing. Sometimes i get people saying that I'm wrong bc they had a different issue lol
Hey Mario, I’m currently having the same issue on my 2012 A7. My question is how much speaker is there if more than one where is the location of the 2nd one. I’ll just replace the speakers for now if that don’t help I’ll go to the professionals lol
In the driver's side of the dash is the second one
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics did you replace both or just the rear ?
Just the rear
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics thanks I’ll let you know how it goes. The speaker in the dash is also the same one that plays music right? And not a separate speaker by it self
Separate, not a regular speaker
Was the speaker all along. Have seen that before but with the speaker behind the cluster causing same issue
Except it was also a harness issue as well. Which is why we saw a 2.9v at the speaker pigtail, and .04v at the module. And also no pwm command from the bidirectional test while using the driver test at the speaker pigtail but good pwm command with the driver test at the module.
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics To be honest, I typed that comment in almost immediately. Should have corrected it after watching the full video. I saw you going down the rabbit hole and the PTSD hit me. Been thru many nightmares for those stupid speakers and wiring. Hate to see a brother suffering same fate. All the panels and plastic and clips and taking everything apart. Much respect to you tho. Videos always entertaining. Keep up the good work.
Double problems on a circuit.....I hate it !!!!!!
I am looking to buy a power probe.They are some models, but I am confused. which one (from your experience),would you recommend me?
I'm a big fan of the 4, i think it's pretty good
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics Thanks Mario.I will go for that.
My camera wasn't working, it turns out that the camera won't work if one of the sensors is bad, my right front center had a code, I replaced it, and now the camera works fine.
Experience diagnosis amigo. Mii bueno saludes noel matute de California
i wonder if an incandescent test light would have worked for the load. Thats an led light correct?
Not an led light(my mistake, i called it an led light)
Guys Mario meant incandescent light not LED test light in the video if that confused anyone.
I mix up so much stuff LOL "drive" test LOL "led light" not easy to film, explain, and diag all at once
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics You are a one man show at times, with hand tied behind your back and trying to give us content. Most of us already know what you were trying to convey. It is still an awesome video.
Thanks for your understanding. Can't tell you how much crap i get for mispeaking lol
interesting. one thing i'd like to mention is that when working with speakers (audio) depending on the design your signals could be dc pulsed frequency, ac freqency or ac imposed on dc frequencies. so using an led test light may not work if the polarisation is incorrect. also since it is current limiting to a very small value it may not work. ac coupling the scope should show an ac component if it exists. also an led will only show half the wave on an ac signal which may not light it up. the test signal may also be dc as shown but the audio being a ac. wire coiled speakers can be ohmed out but peizos the only good test i've found is an audio signal generator. the thing is you found it. and its funny how a bad audio can take down a camera
It was an incandescent light not led lol my mistake! 😆yeah i had to laugh when i saw a speaker causing camera issues lol
How was that blue wire open with 2.9v on it??
Ever had a wire get rubbed through against something until it was open circuited, but one of the wires of that same circuit was still making contact with what rubbed through it? That's what happened here
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics that’s crazy, open, short an failed speaker 😅 love the content 👌🏻
my has the same problem i didn’t understand how to fix it ?
Just replaced my front speaker on my A8 a year ago now my rear 😢
Hey. I Like you litle scope. 👈 where I can get one!
AES Wave is the place to go
👍🙏
Could you use an incandescent test light ?
Nope. This is an incandescent light that i, by mistake, called an led test light lol i don't even own an led test light
What is the harness part #
Mario, what happened with the scope acting up like that? I was thinking to get one of these for quick reads but I'm concerned about this type of failure that is critical to scope work.
The input ends up becoming an intermittent connection. Aeswave has rectified the issue with a new 90 degree angle connector
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics Thank you Mario. Did they say that the new kit comes with that 90 degree angle? The picture shows the normal straight adapter.
No, this is a new product
👍🏻
I'm in no way saying I don't believe you, but you didn't show the PowerProbe driver test at the speaker, you only used the test light at the connector. Did you use the PowerProbe at the speaker end to confirm wiring integrity? How could one have tested this without a PowerProbeIV?
Running a jumper wire while everything was still intact would have gave him speaker problem. Electricity takes path of least resistance. As far as what I've done in a pinch worked for me. He could have ran a back probe an lead from module connection to speaker connector and cleared codes.
I actually did show it.
Just voltage: at 5:15 you can see voltage at the speaker pigtail at 2.95v. Then at 6:22 you can see me check the same wire at the module, and i find 0.04v. Red flag number 1
Which lead me to my next test, since my light load substitution was a fail. The driver test.
At 8:17 i enable the driver test at the module, a good pwm signal from the bidirectional test is now activated. Then i go and prove that this same test at the pigtail end results in no pwm signal from the bidirectional test at 9:13.
This condemned the harness. A repair was justified and made. I ran a new wire, as repair because that's what it would've needed regardless. Only to find a speaker problem.
We still got there fellas. Running the jumper wire in a pinch would've given me the same result. It also wouldn't have cleared the codes since the correct resistance as not there thanks to the bad speaker. Confirming using the driver test have the same requirements as what's necessary to clear the code.
How could one have tested without the pp4?
As mentioned, the voltage. The voltage would've shown the wiring issue, and ultimately after fixing the wire, the speaker issue. But we still wouldn't have a way to confirm a good transistor without a similar driver test, or a spare speaker laying around. I don't know of any other driver tester at the moment
Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. Safe to say I think I would have made the wrong call on this. Thanks so much for sharing with the rest of us. Keep it up 🤘👍
a good cheater test would be to unhook the plug at the module and the speaker. then jumper the speaker leads. then at the module connector wire end find those two wires, hook battery ground to one and battery plus through a properly sized test light to the other. you basically made a loop and if the test light lights you know the wires are good. if not you can probe the wires to find the bad spot after checking just one wire at a time to eliminate half the problem. nice thing about this method is if you have a pair at the front of the vehicle going al the way to the back you dont need 30 foot long leads.
Yes this is a good test, but i cannot prove that the module transistor is good
im so lost
Totally lost me.