Keegan, thank you for all your video contributions. I want to note about filing down the entire woodruff key. Making the key way loose on both ends will either tear up the shaft or break the key. I have filed 1/2 the key way with good results. Altho there isn't much stress on it, it still can't wobble on the shaft. And more then .02-.03 works fine gaining like 5+ degrees
Excellent video and very well described. Also, the part you filed down is called a key, while the slot in the crankshaft is called a keyway. I'm looking forward to viewing many more of your videos.
By shaving the top of the key you mean the sides of the key.. top side of the key that pokes out not the moon side the flat sides.. the edges that poek out of the Moon slot ... the sides of it left to right .. Need to be filed in a linear fashion level and straight has also both sides should have equal amounts so if you're saying shave 1 mm that means to do a half a millimeter on the left side of the key and the right side of the key that poked out the top of the key slot shaft... so that you can have a center to move right to left with your magnet
@@keeganhache6667 thanks for letting me know that cuz that was going to be my next step and improving the performance and also the carburetor and the head and exhaust as well cuz I'm just basically base model right now
you can stuff the case around the bearing "webs" too if you're careful. clean it w/acetone before you epoxy. it lasts pretty long. almost works too well- i hate it when then wwheel locks up when you pop the clutch..but very informative as usual. thank you!
I can do a video on this if your still interested! I always like to show if my modifications worked but there’s is really bad weather coming through right now.
Thanks bro it does cool down the engine because the exhaust gases can escape faster and it doesn’t make excessive back pressure. Some guys take the baffle strait out but it’s way to loud lol
Yeah for my Minnerlli case reed I will be using a pwk 21mm carb and I’m getting a jet kit for it. Hopefully that will help keep enough fuel at the higher rpm’s.
Try first cleaning the threads with wd40 and wipe them off good then use a tap set and tap the same pitch back into it. If that option is not available use red thread locker
@@keeganhache6667 no I mean like striped it of like it snapped on the end by the magnet is their a part I can buy to replace it or anythin I could do to prevent my magnet from coming off
Yes the mz65 clone is the best low budget exhaust pipe out there. It gives good takeoff speed and all around works really well with a 40x47mm motor. On something like my yd100 it’s a little to small.
The rounded side stays the way it is. You want to file the flat side of the keyway to move the timing. Sorry I did not focus on that part to much. But next time around I will definitely go into more detail maybe even do the process on a brand new motor and then test the results
@@keeganhache6667 yea if you did a detailed video on it and the end results that would be valuable info I'd definitely watch! If your someone who's never messed with the timing on these motors, it's hard for me to understand what part of the woodruff key to file to retard the timing. I'd rather have it run smoothly with a little more top end than have more low end tourqe.
@@keeganhache6667 I've done everything else on them except the timing and I think mine may be off a little I've got the stage 4 bbr racing kit but I only get 30mph with a 32t rear sprocket
While the basic concept is correct, this video shows a pretty bad way to adjust your timing. The original key in the original keyways locks the timing at a fixed setting - once you file or grind either of the keyways (the one in the crank or the one in the magneto), or the key itself, you introduce potential slop into that fixed setting... the magnet will slowly move position and then your timing will be off. He also incorrectly uses the term "keyway" for the woodruff key - the "keyway" refers the dished slot in the crank and the long slot in the magnet. The half moon piece is the "woodruff key". He says you need to file "the flat side" of the "keyway" - if he means the woodruff key then for his suggestion have any chance of working he means you need to file the flat side of the "woodruff key" ... but there are three flat sides to a woodruff key. Filing the TOP flat (ie opposite the curved side) would be dangerous as it does nothing to alter the timing and DOES increase the chance that the key will lose all grip - which will mean the magnet could come loose and wreck that side of the engine. It seems he is suggesting you file the one of the two sides of the woodruff key... you could also file one of the sides of the keyway in the magnet (it's impossible to file the keyway in the crank). However filing the keyway in the magnet of the key itself introduces slop and subsequently you'll suffer from the aforementioned incorrect timing. This is a very poor and potentially dangerous video.
@@ELISRACINGTEAM bro what you trying to say it’s a proven fact it adjust your timing curve on the motor. They make a Cdi box called the jaguar that does the same thing
@@coreyhigh6157 lol I’m a car guy too. I know what your getting at. But on a 2 stroke motor it smooths out the higher rpm’s and make it not 4 stroke as much and you will get a higher top speed.
By shaving the top of the key you mean the sides of the key.. top side of the key that pokes out not the moon side the flat sides.. the edges that poek out of the Moon slot ... the sides of it left to right .. Need to be filed in a linear fashion level and straight has also both sides should have equal amounts so if you're saying shave 1 mm that means to do a half a millimeter on the left side of the key and the right side of the key that poked out the top of the key slot shaft... so that you can have a center to move right to left with your magnet
By shaving the top of the key you mean the sides of the key.. top side of the key that pokes out not the moon side the flat sides.. the edges that poek out of the Moon slot ... the sides of it left to right .. Need to be filed in a linear fashion level and straight has also both sides should have equal amounts so if you're saying shave 1 mm that means to do a half a millimeter on the left side of the key and the right side of the key that poked out the top of the key slot shaft... so that you can have a center to move right to left with your magnet
Keegan, thank you for all your video contributions. I want to note about filing down the entire woodruff key. Making the key way loose on both ends will either tear up the shaft or break the key. I have filed 1/2 the key way with good results. Altho there isn't much stress on it, it still can't wobble on the shaft. And more then .02-.03 works fine gaining like 5+ degrees
Excellent video and very well described. Also, the part you filed down is called a key, while the slot in the crankshaft is called a keyway. I'm looking forward to viewing many more of your videos.
Thanks awesome man thanks lol words are hard sometimes check out some of the new videos I’m doing a port work series
Thank you so much for this video I put my magneto on backwards the first time and your the best
No problem glad I could help you out
By shaving the top of the key you mean the sides of the key.. top side of the key that pokes out not the moon side the flat sides.. the edges that poek out of the Moon slot ...
the sides of it left to right ..
Need to be filed in a linear fashion level and straight has also both sides should have equal amounts so if you're saying shave 1 mm that means to do a half a millimeter on the left side of the key and the right side of the key that poked out the top of the key slot shaft...
so that you can have a center to move right to left with your magnet
@@EthanHowells-j7i yup I kept the bottom part left alone and shaved the top portion 1mm it’s honestly to much play .5mm would be fine
@@keeganhache6667 thanks for letting me know that cuz that was going to be my next step and improving the performance and also the carburetor and the head and exhaust as well cuz I'm just basically base model right now
Thanks,I couldn't get mine to start but then you said it wouldn't start Is the magneto was backwards and I flipped it and boom it worked
Yup did the same thing haha
you can stuff the case around the bearing "webs" too if you're careful. clean it w/acetone before you epoxy. it lasts pretty long. almost works too well- i hate it when then wwheel locks up when you pop the clutch..but very informative as usual. thank you!
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to find one that's shoes the performance before and then after the adjustment of timing.
I can do a video on this if your still interested! I always like to show if my modifications worked but there’s is really bad weather coming through right now.
Great stuff brother!!!!! Mmmmmmmm idk if I'm there yet, but I think I would like to do this later after I get my exhaust pipe in.
Yeah I understand everyone is on different levels in their hobby but I guarantee you will get there 👍
Glad to hear ya advising cutting the stock stinger as all it does is restrict your engine cutting it helps it push out heat also
Thanks bro it does cool down the engine because the exhaust gases can escape faster and it doesn’t make excessive back pressure. Some guys take the baffle strait out but it’s way to loud lol
You can also window the piston along with trenching the jug but you'll need a reed valve
Go look at my new videos did plenty of content on boost Port’s and windowing piston!
#1 tip: get either a arbeo carb looks like the one ya got but with low end air fuel screw and less problems less leaks better quality or try a vm18
Yeah for my Minnerlli case reed I will be using a pwk 21mm carb and I’m getting a jet kit for it. Hopefully that will help keep enough fuel at the higher rpm’s.
good info,thanks.
No problem glad I could help out!
Hey man, i saw you have the same motor as mine, do you know by any chance where to find a replacement cylinder for it?
Amazon has a couple and so does bikeberry
2:13 why when you said this about the lock washer it won’t start?
The groves cut into the magnet from the lock washer tell you what side to put it back on. It just a rule of thumb I go by anytime I disassemble it.
Can u help me i over threaded the magneto magnet bolt and stripped it off how do I fix it?
Try first cleaning the threads with wd40 and wipe them off good then use a tap set and tap the same pitch back into it. If that option is not available use red thread locker
@@keeganhache6667 no I mean like striped it of like it snapped on the end by the magnet is their a part I can buy to replace it or anythin I could do to prevent my magnet from coming off
@troynew4608 no you need a new crank unless you have a welder
Gg dude , great information thank you
Thanks man
This exhaust give a more power?I,m totally amateur for this engine.
Yes the mz65 clone is the best low budget exhaust pipe out there. It gives good takeoff speed and all around works really well with a 40x47mm motor. On something like my yd100 it’s a little to small.
Snake skin tires. Cool
Thnaks bro I love the grip they give me I’m the street💪
Do all these engines have the same size woodruff key?
Yes they do
@@keeganhache6667 good I'm just going to buy some and file them down then I can just change them
Cool
So witch side are you saying to file on that woodruff key. Tha flat side, the rounded?
The rounded side stays the way it is. You want to file the flat side of the keyway to move the timing. Sorry I did not focus on that part to much. But next time around I will definitely go into more detail maybe even do the process on a brand new motor and then test the results
@@keeganhache6667 yea if you did a detailed video on it and the end results that would be valuable info I'd definitely watch! If your someone who's never messed with the timing on these motors, it's hard for me to understand what part of the woodruff key to file to retard the timing. I'd rather have it run smoothly with a little more top end than have more low end tourqe.
@@keeganhache6667 I've done everything else on them except the timing and I think mine may be off a little I've got the stage 4 bbr racing kit but I only get 30mph with a 32t rear sprocket
While the basic concept is correct, this video shows a pretty bad way to adjust your timing.
The original key in the original keyways locks the timing at a fixed setting - once you file or grind either of the keyways (the one in the crank or the one in the magneto), or the key itself, you introduce potential slop into that fixed setting... the magnet will slowly move position and then your timing will be off.
He also incorrectly uses the term "keyway" for the woodruff key - the "keyway" refers the dished slot in the crank and the long slot in the magnet. The half moon piece is the "woodruff key".
He says you need to file "the flat side" of the "keyway" - if he means the woodruff key then for his suggestion have any chance of working he means you need to file the flat side of the "woodruff key" ... but there are three flat sides to a woodruff key. Filing the TOP flat (ie opposite the curved side) would be dangerous as it does nothing to alter the timing and DOES increase the chance that the key will lose all grip - which will mean the magnet could come loose and wreck that side of the engine. It seems he is suggesting you file the one of the two sides of the woodruff key... you could also file one of the sides of the keyway in the magnet (it's impossible to file the keyway in the crank). However filing the keyway in the magnet of the key itself introduces slop and subsequently you'll suffer from the aforementioned incorrect timing.
This is a very poor and potentially dangerous video.
Thank I’m try it
Yup no problem good luck with your build!
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Avance the timimg on those engines Is relative,why, engine slow AND by making this the engine be slower
Advancing your timing is for more low end torque and that’s great for a trail bike or climbing steep hills. I retarded the timing for more top speed
@@keeganhache6667 . You SAY top speed
@@ELISRACINGTEAM bro what you trying to say it’s a proven fact it adjust your timing curve on the motor. They make a Cdi box called the jaguar that does the same thing
@@keeganhache6667 agreed .
@@keeganhache6667 we try to make the most coment posible,the More we coment on you vídeo the better ,keep up the good work .
If u want more more ur supposed to advance the timing….
Not true on a two stroke motor
Ya I’m a car guy so with cars u would only retard timing if ur getting pre ignition which lowers ur power so this makes zero sense
@@coreyhigh6157 lol I’m a car guy too. I know what your getting at. But on a 2 stroke motor it smooths out the higher rpm’s and make it not 4 stroke as much and you will get a higher top speed.
@@keeganhache6667 ahh that’s good to hear I do not want anyyy four stroking going on
So retard timing helps top end? Advanced timing helps low end? I'm confused
Cluch and botom end timeing
By shaving the top of the key you mean the sides of the key.. top side of the key that pokes out not the moon side the flat sides.. the edges that poek out of the Moon slot ...
the sides of it left to right ..
Need to be filed in a linear fashion level and straight has also both sides should have equal amounts so if you're saying shave 1 mm that means to do a half a millimeter on the left side of the key and the right side of the key that poked out the top of the key slot shaft...
so that you can have a center to move right to left with your magnet
Thanks,I couldn't get mine to start but then you said it wouldn't start Is the magneto was backwards and I flipped it and boom it worked
By shaving the top of the key you mean the sides of the key.. top side of the key that pokes out not the moon side the flat sides.. the edges that poek out of the Moon slot ...
the sides of it left to right ..
Need to be filed in a linear fashion level and straight has also both sides should have equal amounts so if you're saying shave 1 mm that means to do a half a millimeter on the left side of the key and the right side of the key that poked out the top of the key slot shaft...
so that you can have a center to move right to left with your magnet