I have been riding mtb for a long 24 years now.. and work as a technician for trek bikes. I got involved in the rc hobbie a few years ago.. all started with an scx24, race buggies, and sct , but got in love with crawlers. Tks for sharing such good information.
VRD Carbon: I use pen springs in the front shocks only on the shock shaft. I found it works great. My front end is always down but when it needs to reach for ground it does. It's pretty cool to watch it work.
I am working on a pen spring aka hair band aka "negative spring" video very soon. Lots of misunderstandings there, but sounds like you are on the right track.
Love the videos. They have a bunch of great information. I am mostly into the scale crawlers, but recently have been bluring the lines and built my first "Cheeter" rig. Now I want more.
Looking good! I’ve had an idea / wish for a video for some time and now at appr. 7:00 you brushed the context of it: Cardan joint angles and rotation speeds, especially interested in the rear with carrier bearing setups👍 Keep up the good job👍 Edit. And at 23:30
I find that you want to have as low an angle as possible in your u-joint driveshafts - otherwise they get loud. They technically function up to 40-50 degrees, but are way to rough and loud. Keep them straight where you can.
Ideally I like to run 0 caster in the rear, but if you can't get it perfect 0-10 degrees works. Just don't go to positive caster - weird things happen.
Thanks for the content dude. Why do the rear lower links run so far up to the front of the body. Would you loose performance mounting them further back?
That’s a great question. Normally the lower rear links mount on the skid, but with this new trend of forward biased skids, the links get really long as you noted. You want the mounting point as low as possible to get the right 4-bar linkage suspension and kinematic performance, and as you can see with these high clearance designs you don’t have too many places to mount them low and rearward. I do have the upper links very short because it’s more possible on those.
This is awesome! I’d like to copy your build. Any chance you could share the length of you links and any other details that I’d need to know to order parts? Appreciate it!
Happy to help but I think that will be challenging because the skid is a custom design and all the links were custom bent by me. I have also since moved to a custom carbon chassis so replicating what's in the video is pretty tough.
2.2 tires. I run wide rims, in this case 1.5 Crawler Innovations plastic wheels - wide, light, cheap and I've never had one fail yet. Have to glue them though. Wider rims support the sidewalls better and reduce the tire folding over sideways.
@@BoomslangSuss I’ve seen those rims on CI website. I run CI foams on all my rigs. That is a wide rim. What is your ride width? Outside tire edge to outside? At least 11”? What tires are those? IBEX?
Many thanks for this nice presentation. I'm designing my first 1/10 shafty rock crawler and i'm looking for infos & inspiration. I find that here. I strongly brainstorm about the knuckle weights. On a 1.9" wheel, is it possible to make them hanging low inside special 3D printed rims, where should stand the inner part of the foam ?
The closest thing is a Dlux Loaded Dice but it only come in 2.2 as far as I know. I've heard of a few people working on the concept you are describing but nothing has come to fruition yet. One challenge is being able to get the wheel off if weights are recessed into it, so keep that in mind.
@@BoomslangSuss Thank you for your answer. I've thought i could put the hanger inside the wheel, bolt the wheel on the hub, then screw the hanger on the knuckle. Tricky challenge, but the CG may fall down a lot if success....
Yes, I recently took off my springs entirely front and rear. The axles have high weight relative to the chassis so there’s no problem getting full articulation without the help of any springs so I’m really liking this set up.
@BoomslangSuss hay your in the bay area ? Do you get out to the bean ? I would love to crawl with you I would like to see how your rigs do there's a group going the assilamar in Monterey Saturday the 13th
Cool stuff! I have been wanting a fs Maybe I’ll shop poizd again want a KOTS. But cool setup. Like the rear link work. I love this stuff big sun and like. Check my anti squat wtf vidoe…. At this point why not just do a sporty?? It basically is.
It depends on the type of vehicle and what you are doing. Yes, 99% of vehicles try to minimize scrub for tire wear and handling, but they do keep a small, prescribed amount to get some feedback feel in the steering wheel. For an RC crawler, a high amount of scrub in the front will allow you to reach up higher, hook a wheel, and pull the vehicle up. It's a unique situation for sure, which is why RC Crawlers are so interesting - they have their own set of rules and objectives.
man that is so cool awesome build well done..have u seen the rhino v2 if so and u have the time would u be able to share your thoughts on it as I'm thinking to start a build from one thanks love the vid u have given me some awesome ideas cheers
The Rhino used to be a really cool car, but it’s fallen behind a little and is not that popular currently. Carbon rail chassis like Poizd, G-Speed, Corrupt Carbon are all designed by people who are much closer to the current crawling sport. It’s easier to build those chassis into a legal competition class if you care about that. And there are a lot more aftermarket parts available. But they are all custom ground up builds and the rhino at least gives you a high clearance rig right out of the box as a starting point.
@@BoomslangSuss tha nk you very much for they great information on the truth behind the anti squat and the way u explain the overdrive and when it actually works u couldn't of explained it better more people should listen to what u have to say again great information THANKS.. after watching your vid i got online and searched for poizd chassis kits capra poizd and i cant find where to buy one from there,s a few vid,s on people with poizd capra,s but again no mention,s where u can purchase them. again if u have the time could u spear me in the right direction please thanks again Aussie jas
Very cool. And helpful even for my humble SCX24s.
Glad to hear it!
I have been riding mtb for a long 24 years now.. and work as a technician for trek bikes. I got involved in the rc hobbie a few years ago.. all started with an scx24, race buggies, and sct , but got in love with crawlers.
Tks for sharing such good information.
I have 2 SCX24 as well. Great for family and friends.
That thing looks BEAUTIFUL.
Thank you!
I can only admire your build video and its description. Thank you for making the video. I want to make it like you.
So nice to hear. Thank you.
Great to find your channel Jason! I hope you are doing awesome
Thanks!
Not a link riser. A link adjustment mount is the word you were looking for lol. Love the build and the vid. Very informative
Well said 😂. Thanks for the kind words.
Lots of interesting solutions for our shafty crowd... thanks for sharing 👍
Brass bolt for a servo saver would work great also.. Wonder if it's to weak but it's an idea.
Amazing build. Inspiring.
I like it. Now you got me thinking. Instead of brass we could make a “shear “ bolt with a thin, breakaway section. Hmmmm
VRD Carbon:
I use pen springs in the front shocks only on the shock shaft.
I found it works great. My front end is always down but when it needs to reach for ground it does.
It's pretty cool to watch it work.
I am working on a pen spring aka hair band aka "negative spring" video very soon. Lots of misunderstandings there, but sounds like you are on the right track.
Love the videos. They have a bunch of great information. I am mostly into the scale crawlers, but recently have been bluring the lines and built my first "Cheeter" rig. Now I want more.
Cheaters are really fun.
Very good design and engineering
Thank you!
I bet that crawls really well!
I would love to be able to pick up a slider in this configuration!! Looks slick, bud.
Thanks!
Interesting concept love the different thinking keep up videos
Thanks!
Looking good!
I’ve had an idea / wish for a video for some time and now at appr. 7:00 you brushed the context of it: Cardan joint angles and rotation speeds, especially interested in the rear with carrier bearing setups👍 Keep up the good job👍
Edit. And at 23:30
I find that you want to have as low an angle as possible in your u-joint driveshafts - otherwise they get loud. They technically function up to 40-50 degrees, but are way to rough and loud. Keep them straight where you can.
Looks amazing 🤩
Gereat informative vid. Just subscribed 😊 Are you running any rear caster? If so, what are the benefits if any. Many 😊
Ideally I like to run 0 caster in the rear, but if you can't get it perfect 0-10 degrees works. Just don't go to positive caster - weird things happen.
감사합니다. 좋은 내용! 잘보고 있습니다.
You are welcome. Hope you get some ideas.
@@BoomslangSuss I'm experimenting with all the cases. It's fun.
My fav free mod remove springs off any stock rig.
Band the front
The less rigid body moving seems like could mess w rear hinge system
It’s rigid at the rear hinge. Doesn’t seem to be a downside.
Thing is fkn rad bro
Thanks!
Nice setup! What Wheelbase you are running???
13.5”
Thanks for the content dude. Why do the rear lower links run so far up to the front of the body. Would you loose performance mounting them further back?
That’s a great question. Normally the lower rear links mount on the skid, but with this new trend of forward biased skids, the links get really long as you noted. You want the mounting point as low as possible to get the right 4-bar linkage suspension and kinematic performance, and as you can see with these high clearance designs you don’t have too many places to mount them low and rearward. I do have the upper links very short because it’s more possible on those.
@@BoomslangSuss
Okay that makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the response dude 🤙
This is awesome! I’d like to copy your build. Any chance you could share the length of you links and any other details that I’d need to know to order parts? Appreciate it!
Happy to help but I think that will be challenging because the skid is a custom design and all the links were custom bent by me. I have also since moved to a custom carbon chassis so replicating what's in the video is pretty tough.
@@BoomslangSuss what axles do you recommend for a build like yours?
I like Capra portal compatible - either Vanquish or Dlux.
Nice 🔥👍🏾
Thanks 💯
What size rims are you running? Tires? Great rig and engineering. Have an IERC Empire chassis which is very similar to the Poizd.
2.2 tires. I run wide rims, in this case 1.5 Crawler Innovations plastic wheels - wide, light, cheap and I've never had one fail yet. Have to glue them though. Wider rims support the sidewalls better and reduce the tire folding over sideways.
@@BoomslangSuss I’ve seen those rims on CI website. I run CI foams on all my rigs. That is a wide rim. What is your ride width? Outside tire edge to outside? At least 11”? What tires are those? IBEX?
Yes, Proline Ibex. It’s pretty close to 11” outside to outside.
@@BoomslangSuss Thank you! Great videos and information. Keep up the great work! Appreciate the feedback
@@BoomslangSuss wanted to ask you another question. What are you using to cut your carbon fiber pieces/chassis?
Many thanks for this nice presentation. I'm designing my first 1/10 shafty rock crawler and i'm looking for infos & inspiration. I find that here.
I strongly brainstorm about the knuckle weights. On a 1.9" wheel, is it possible to make them hanging low inside special 3D printed rims, where should stand the inner part of the foam ?
The closest thing is a Dlux Loaded Dice but it only come in 2.2 as far as I know. I've heard of a few people working on the concept you are describing but nothing has come to fruition yet. One challenge is being able to get the wheel off if weights are recessed into it, so keep that in mind.
I've been working on this concept.
ua-cam.com/video/-rps27jtqgQ/v-deo.html
@@BoomslangSuss Thank you for your answer. I've thought i could put the hanger inside the wheel, bolt the wheel on the hub, then screw the hanger on the knuckle. Tricky challenge, but the CG may fall down a lot if success....
@@BoomslangSuss Amazing job !👍Pro level ! Congratulation.
Tricky, but I admire the motivation to figure that out.
Hay have you done full droup yet
Yes, I recently took off my springs entirely front and rear. The axles have high weight relative to the chassis so there’s no problem getting full articulation without the help of any springs so I’m really liking this set up.
@BoomslangSuss hay your in the bay area ? Do you get out to the bean ? I would love to crawl with you I would like to see how your rigs do there's a group going the assilamar in Monterey Saturday the 13th
I've been to Bean Hollow but it's a little far from my house. I might be down for Assilimar.
Cool stuff!
I have been wanting a fs
Maybe I’ll shop poizd again want a KOTS.
But cool setup. Like the rear link work.
I love this stuff big sun and like.
Check my anti squat wtf vidoe….
At this point why not just do a sporty??
It basically is.
what is the clearance angle of your transmission?
24 deg
@@BoomslangSuss very very nice
Thank you! I hope you got some ideas for your builds.
Who much weight for whole rig?
5.7 lbs
is this a sporty?
I doubt it. I’m not really targeting any specific class, I’m testing technology.
That's kind of complete opposite of what I have heard I have heard you do not want a lot of tires scrub
It depends on the type of vehicle and what you are doing. Yes, 99% of vehicles try to minimize scrub for tire wear and handling, but they do keep a small, prescribed amount to get some feedback feel in the steering wheel. For an RC crawler, a high amount of scrub in the front will allow you to reach up higher, hook a wheel, and pull the vehicle up. It's a unique situation for sure, which is why RC Crawlers are so interesting - they have their own set of rules and objectives.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsQmJgC26rrcE?feature=share
man that is so cool awesome build well done..have u seen the rhino v2 if so and u have the time would u be able to share your thoughts on it as I'm thinking to start a build from one thanks love the vid u have given me some awesome ideas cheers
The Rhino used to be a really cool car, but it’s fallen behind a little and is not that popular currently. Carbon rail chassis like Poizd, G-Speed, Corrupt Carbon are all designed by people who are much closer to the current crawling sport. It’s easier to build those chassis into a legal competition class if you care about that. And there are a lot more aftermarket parts available. But they are all custom ground up builds and the rhino at least gives you a high clearance rig right out of the box as a starting point.
@@BoomslangSuss tha nk you very much for they great information on the truth behind the anti squat and the way u explain the overdrive and when it actually works u couldn't of explained it better more people should listen to what u have to say again great information THANKS.. after watching your vid i got online and searched for poizd chassis kits capra poizd and i cant find where to buy one from there,s a few vid,s on people with poizd capra,s but again no mention,s where u can purchase them. again if u have the time could u spear me in the right direction please thanks again Aussie jas
Try asking Travis Rake in this forum how to purchase in Australia.
facebook.com/groups/592039188726431/
hardcorerc.net/Poizd-RC-c150429501