Відео

Brilliant !👍

Many thanks for this nice presentation. I'm designing my first 1/10 shafty rock crawler and i'm looking for infos & inspiration. I find that here. I strongly brainstorm about the knuckle weights. On a 1.9" wheel, is it possible to make them hanging low inside special 3D printed rims, where should stand the inner part of the foam ?

I knew your channel would be a big help to people when you first started it I knew it thank you

Great LCG crawler! I also want to make it someday Thailand.

Very cool. And helpful even for my humble SCX24s.

What about smaller like SCX24, recently i read somebody said they are just another pair of links. So no need for all those considerations about oil. Oil Dampers only very recently have been used, the Injora 39 or 40 mm oil shocks seem to have become a standard.

Great video I really enjoyed it so I will subscribe

Laying the shock down will make the suspensions LESS progressive, as more lay down shock will get even more lay down when suspension compress, hense has less force, less progressive.

I’m not an engineer by any means but I would definitely think putting your rear upper links higher so now when you have the weight transfer or pivoting on a certain rear corner on steep incline would create a higher leverage point, acting as a taller pivot point so the weight will push against the mounting location vs wanting to roll over said pivot point/mounting locations

Another well done, informative production!

great videos... can I buy a set or buy your cad file?

Nice 👍🏾🔥

Tips : If you own a Gmade GS02 or GS02F scale crawler, you can use Traxxas 8262 rebuild kit by installing traxxas o-ring instead OEM Gmade SD shocks o-ring

Great, informative video!

👍👍👍

Well ..link risers stopped my crawler from hopping, while climbing steep hills.

Good video once again. Thermal expansion is why emulsion shocks are built ”dead” i.e. the shaft doesn’t come out on its own from full compression. Any pressure (above ambient) inside the shock will ramp up quickly when you drive an off-road car around the track at high-speeds. Same thing with the diffs: an amount of air is left inside on purpose to allow oil expansion. Failure to do this will cause the oil to push on the outdrives and lock the cross pins on the inside. The seal could blow, too.

Thanks for the education!

like for the alkaline trio shirt :)

thank you for the video. I really like your drawings, most RC channels never make their own drawings... I have sth to add to the shock debate: ua-cam.com/users/shortsE3KMpwZfxZs?si=nTrU032QaduD6cOI 😆

Awesome tutorial. Nice video 👍🏾🔥

Great video. I definitively feel better prepared to go deeper into shocks now. Looking forward to your next video!

I didn’t learn anything today but watched the whole thing regardless, this is a brilliant series of videos for anyone new to the hobby or just wants a refresher. Looking forward to the next one 😃🤙

You said that I’d learn something. That Bob Fox fact was one that I honestly never knew.

Alkaline Trio. Going to have to check them out. 👍

We're do yo get the hangers ??

Hi did you decide to sell these yet ?? ?

Awsome Video...i Like your Channel...Great Rig...Greetings from Germany...

Thanks for making me think :) (not just this video, all of them)

Are you ever gonna do a “What’s up with my crawler” for you Scx24?

ua-cam.com/video/B636Ze8DULs/v-deo.htmlsi=DxPhIFhlkto8WS3N&t=110 on this animation there is contact on all sides of the o-ring, i'd think that would be because you don't want the o-ring in a reciprocating application to "roll" around.

I’m sure you said that last line waiting for someone like me to mention the “Emulsion” shock build that is commonly used in rc racing. I believe they are purposely built with air bubbles in them. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts 😃

I assume all the shocks you weighed had oil in them?

We’re big fans of emulsion shocks on the off-road buggy racing side of things. It used to be all bladder shocks in the ’90s but these days I don’t think anyone runs a bladder in 1:10. The folks with 1:8 buggies consider it a tuning option and can build the shock either way to affect handling. The key to successfully run an emulsion shock is to have a strict method to bleeding them. We push the piston all the way in with the bleed screw open and then close it. Virtually zero bubbles inside at this point. Pulling the piston out lowers the pressure and tiny bubbles appear in the fluid. I bet you have seen bubbles appear into brake fluid seemingly from nowhere when bleeding MTB brakes. This way, the amount of air inside the emulsion shock is controlled and repeatable, and the bubbles are mixed with the fluid so thoroughly that the damping effect is uniform through the whole stroke. They’re the bees knees in our discipline.

Thanks again for a clear and informative video. I assemble shocks exactly as you demonstrate. Pushing a steel rod with a machined shoulder through O-rings or X-rings just feels awful. While not an optimal solution, I sometimes shim some squeeze into the seal package. O-rings can swell or wear just a little and it can be tricky to get the fit just right. If I find the seal to be too loose to my liking, I add something like a 0.2 mm shim to the stack and it most often prevents leaks while allowing the shaft to move with relatively little friction. I drive the fast kind of RC cars and weighed my rear shocks using a similar method to yours. A 13 mm bore shock with a 27.5 mm stroke (as used on 1:10 buggies) weighs 17.9 grams and it’s distributed as 10.74 g for the top and 7.16 g for the bottom. When sagged to ride height, the center of mass is 30 mm from the top and 45 mm from the bottom. Since the shock is placed at a 55-degree angle, the change in CoG is reduced. However, the center of mass of the shock is still lowered by 12.3 mm on the vertical axis when it’s flipped. So, unless my grasp of the physics at hand is flawed, flipping the rear shocks means that 35.8 g of mass is lowered by 12.3 mm from a position that was relatively high to begin with. On a car that goes really fast through corners on a high-grip surface, this can be a pretty good argument for flipping the shocks. This is not to say everyone should do it. It depends. But the top drivers in Europe (Cragg, Kaerup, Hall bros…) have been winning high-level races with their shocks flipped so we know for sure it’s not a bad setup option to have.

Not a ton of articulation is good. Also, you don’t necessarily need that every time if you have too much articulation, your tires will fall in a hole and then your tire will bind so yes and no for crawlers.

I agree it is not anti squat but I think it more for torque twist it just the same part used

The guys at Vanquish Products built shocks last week on their live, they built them the same way you showed.

I also spend most of my life mid stroke or deeper.. 😬 2 things. Good pliers make ALL the difference when putting those rings in the bottom of Dravs. There’s also a grease that is for motorcycle chains? I think? It is green slime in bulk. It’s green, slimy, looks and smells the same and is WAYYY cheaper. I’ll try to reply when I get home. I can’t remember its name right now.

Rock city parking lot, yeah definitely more wheel speed for that decent... or some rear weight. I usually give it the beans towards the end. Or if the car I'm using has it, I use the dig all the way down

Glad someone else said what I knew. I got into a very heated argument about shocks and CG. I was a hydraulics master in school when I studied for heavy equipment maintenance. I know for a fact shocks all leak. If it’s leaking badly to where you need to rebuild very often, you either didn’t build them correctly or you nicked the shaft enough to cause the o-ring, the thing that helps keep the oil inside, to fail prematurely. I see this so often on the drift group I moderate and they’ll tell people all kinds of nonsense. Whenever I hear someone is having shock oil leaking, 99% of the time the chassis is coated in dirt and grime. Leaking shocks are the result of poor maintenance and poor building. There are some shocks that really do have poor tolerances but for the most part, at least for drift, they’re all variations of a theme and are dimensionally the same or similar so that excuse is kind of moot. As for whether you run them upside down or not is a matter of preference. Also, the technique you’ve shown was the exact way that I’d learned and really does produce a very nice shock that doesn’t at all leak. Tamiya told me to build it a certain way and was always wondering why my old shocks leaked and needed rebuilding so often. I recently built a set of TRF shocks using that same technique and they’re the most buttery and leak-free shocks around.

Freakin OUTSTANDING!

Get your life together and come back. 😂 🍻

Selling Stl file for the chassi cut? Looks darn good :)

is this a sporty?

Great video 😃

thank you for the video.I like your channel. On my mountainbike the rear shock is mounted vertically and can be installed both ways. I ride the fat side on the top and the skinny side on the bottom mainly so dirt has no chance to build up due to gravity. In your experience, does the orientation of mountainbike shocks matter? Thanks, Nic

So who is responsible for the car when it hits and kills someone, because my understanding is everything is preprogramed for how the car should reacted in different situations, so if it kills someone is it premeditated murder? I just watched a video of one going against the flow of traffic in a construction zone in Arizona, police got the car stopped and luckily no one was hurt but they had no idea what to do once it was stopped. Amazing technology but a lot to consider from a legal standpoint.

Thanks!

You rep some of the best bands around with your shirts. Great videos I am making major tuning changes on my comp rigs.