Відео

I’d be curious to see if it could be done with 1.9 straight axles. I’d also like to design a c-hub that is lower profile. Meus has a raised lower kingpin mount but haven’t tried it yet.

My bully stock pins and everything make my Capra axles hide the c hub but almost too thin….sacrifice one set of abilities for another ying yang

What track width are you running? Mine is on the wider side which exposes the c-hub more.

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It's 1/10th scale. Front Axle is Vanquish F9 Capra and Rear is SSDLux. The chassis and skid are custom, loosely based on Poizd T2 V2. More details here: ua-cam.com/video/TBqS80_JkSw/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/8Z3NgFgY19c/v-deo.html

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Let your imagination steer you. 🤘

It doesn’t take long until you start imagining driving spots everywhere. I would like to drive over the cables on the Golden Gate Bridge, but security is too high there. Tried to get permission to drive over the roller coaster at the Santa Cruz Boardwalk but was not persuasive.

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That’s why I added the “One Take”! 🤣 😂😂

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Great data points.

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Dlux Portal

That should work fine. Sub trim could help you get your end points more symmetrical if that made a difference to you. ua-cam.com/video/OG6gdx_CVHA/v-deo.htmlsi=O3RFnNrAHFq4qUYl

@@BoomslangSuss I did some testing on my DumboRC DDF-350 to see if there's any difference in the steering input or output whatsoever between the asymmetrical end-points and no sub-trim VS the symmetrical end-points with sub-trim. On the assumption that the axle body tolerances and the knuckle end stops would provide an equal steering angle in both ways, I used the paper method (like in CNC) to touch and calibrate the end points, then I used various thickness etalons getting pinched between these surfaces on the knuckles to see what steering input (on the curve) do I need on both sides at different angles. My finding is that the steering output percentage wasn't really affected by the end-points or the sub-trim. The sum of these two resulted in the same percentage left or right within a 1% margin of error and of course they stayed asymmetrical in the actual output signal regardless of the settings. To my disappointment the firmware isn't really interpolating the steering input equally between the sides either, so for instance I could pinch a coin with the steering knuckle at 90% input in one direction and 82% input in the other direction. But of course touching the end-points would be 100% steering input in both directions - which of course would be translated to an output compensated with the end-points. Interesting. I can only guess that this asymmetry is the result of the skewed geometry of the servo horn and steering rod.

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That is an interesting rationale that I have not heard. The reason the force goes down is because the mechanical advantage changes from 1:1 to 0.71:1 based on the relative distance changes. The actual spring rate itself doesn’t change so I don’t see why you would double count it. It would be easy enough to measure though.

Yeah it’s squared because there’s the mechanical advantage and a distance reduction. For instance, if the spring moved half the distance of the wheel, the mechanical advantage is 50% but also the spring is only displaced 50%, so the wheel rate is 25% of the spring. Books explain it better, you can look up “wheel rate motion ratio” on google books.

Still feels like double counting but you could be right. I’ll look into it. Thanks for the tip.

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I appreciate that! I work hard to make it simple and clear.

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That’s a fair approach. It would lengthen your shock, but that can be addressed easily enough.

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I’m going to build a clear shock so we can see what’s going on inside. I believe that air would only form under extremely low pressure, such that occurs with violent turbulence, hence the high number of very tiny bubbles. What you’re describing seems like it would be a few large bubbles pulling off the back of the piston. I’m still intrigued by the RC definition of emulsion shocks. It’s seems they would be less consistent, but I wouldn’t know first hand. I will keep investigating though. What’s the go to 1/8th scale racing shock currently?

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@@curtkelsey2136 😂😂

Stay tuned for Part 2.

That’s what I get for not waiting til the vidio is over!

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​@@BoomslangSussdude I have to finish my shocks they can't wait any longer 😂

Thanks. I found it fascinating. Happy to hear at least one other person found it interesting too. I never know at what point I will be jumping the shark. 🤘😂

That’s a fair point. The spring cap takes up about 1 mm which puts the shock stroke back down to the 23 mm they advertise. For sure it still moves into the bladder space but perhaps not as much as I showed. The rod end should not thread down past the end of the threads where I set that nut.

Maybe I’ll branch out sometime. Aren’t there enough experts in that discipline already? Any specific topics you’d like to learn more about?

@@BoomslangSuss A fresh set of eyes/opinions and your engineering expertise is always welcome to our discipline! Have you ever raced RC?

No, racing isn’t really my style. That’s why I like crawling, it’s just more chill. But I do actually go watch races quite regularly.

@@BoomslangSuss All being well may, the Nitro bug find you… 🏎️💨

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It's a custom chassis and skid that I designed myself, loosely based on a Poizd T3. There rear axle is a Dlux SSDlux and the front is a Vanquish Capra F9. Here is a video with more details. ua-cam.com/video/TBqS80_JkSw/v-deo.html

@ Which Poizd chassis is closest to yours?

T3 V2

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Why did you switch away from BTA? Size constraints?

@ no it cleared my setup even with a fusion pro, the biggest issue I had was the clearance penalty even spaced up it was getting caught , all aside from the servo burn out issues , I went back to SOA and my rig does everything it was doing before I just compensated for the CG shift by adding more weight down low and losing weight up top, I went from the fusion to a very light outrunner and esc combo, running a 1900 KV SS teamspec and 20 gram esc now vs the heavy fusion pro

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Nice. 👍🏼

850 is likely above the danger threshold. Under 550 seems to be trouble.

@ Okay, I was about to drop to smaller just for perfect 50/50 side to side but i’m not off by much maybe 1-1.5g so a 650mah would more than likely do it.

I'm not an expert on what mah works and what doesn't, so if it ain't broke don't fix it. Add a tungsten puck somewhere to balance, or drill a little brass off of whatever wheel weights you are using.

John Holmes just put this out yesterday. Seems like he's still investigating and I am sure he won't rest until he has a solution for us. I'm running a 540 which isn't really THAT small. My experience is the slightest amount of steering under load causes some electrical failure. Obvious, I know. But the full sized servos I run will break your wheels off before self destructing. Ok, a bit of an exaggeration but you get the point. facebook.com/reel/1276773246771188

So many great companies that serve us in the custom crawler world. Reefs, Dlux Fab, Holmes, 3Bros RC, Poizd, just to name a few. You got a question, you will likely get an answer from an owner. I don't mean to leave anyone off this list - these are just companies I have first hand experience with and I know there are many others.

@BoomslangSuss Yes, he had the problem with overvolt issues, but I guess he figured that out. He clearly has some ideas about this, as well, and my guess is inaccurate c ratings on batteries (surprise, surprise) and temps, as Joe touched on. I think it is great that John is admitting there's an issue and replacing servos without delay and that he's humble enough to ask for help from the community. This is why companies like Holmes and the others you mentioned get my hard earned dollars.

Agreed on all points.

You are very lucky. I had that servo in the back for a while. The only issue was the encoder wore out after a year and it got jittery and didn't' center so well any longer. Keeping it for a spare now.

I lost a 700v2 on 450 4s right after they went out of stock…and before the NSDRC I lost a reefs 800LP. I have twin NSDRC 650LP’s in my new buggy build and am nervous.

450mah is too small and the risk is high unfortunately. Even with the surge diodes they sell - makers have learned those don't help at all. Let us know how it goes.

@BoomslangSuss I have been competitively comping my direct power servos off 450mah 4s batteries for over 1 yr.

You are one of the lucky ones. There is also a trail of hundreds of failed servos on small batteries from all brands.

Yes.

540 mah 4s. Nobody seems to understand it yet but it’s super widespread lately.

@BoomslangSuss did the batteries have a high discharge rate?

90C, but that number is always a bit sus.

@@BoomslangSuss yes I know. Now I'm building a comp crawler with a low profile servo, but I gonna use 850 mAh 3S 120C batteries. I hope it don't die in the first run... On the other hand... What was the ambient temperature when the servo fail? Maybe it was too cold and the batteries cannot achieve enough discharge to feed motor and servo. Could it be possible?

@@124crawlervideos 70 deg ambient. Not cold where I live. This is the best explanation to date. ua-cam.com/video/E4BIWt3xibs/v-deo.htmlsi=j4_vduoTw-jxBxeY

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Thank you for the kind words. Very much appreciated and stay tuned for lots more content coming.

Thanks!

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Dlux makes the broadest range of high end, custom, competition parts, so they make it to the top easily. There are quite a few other companies with great products who focus on a smaller number of parts. Second place is probably a 10 way tie. What do y'all think?

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At least I’m not wearing it. 😂